Updated DIY Bodice Block Tutorial | How To Make Your Own Sewing Patterns | Thrills and Stitches
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- Hi everyone! Just a few notes I forgot to mention in the intro:
This method is an amalgamation of several tutorials I have followed (particularly this one: inthefolds.com/blog/2016/2/22...) plus my own learnings and experiences I've made, from fashion school to my more DIY approach in recent years.
This is not a professional or scientific method - it is what works for me.
Technically speaking anyone following this precisely should achieve a working result. Human proportions can be complex though and the result therefore might differ from what you see in my version.
I also need to add that I did, in fact, changed one or to things compared to the first version of this method I shared last year (contrary to what I say in the intro). You can find old version here: • Step by Step Bodice Bl...
With that, I hope you give this method a try and share your learnings with the comment section! Happy drafting xx
Time stamps:
00:00 Intro
01:18 How to take your measurements
04:58 Drawing the bodice block
05:37 Constructing the grid
09:28 Constructing the back
13:46 The waist dart calculation
15:38 Constructing the front
16:37 Front shoulder dart calculation
22:15 Final adjustments
24:24 Sewing the bodice
25:12 The fitting process
Check out my first digital dress pattern: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/14489...
Would love to connect with you~
I’m Elisa and I'm passionate about fashion and trying to bring my designs to life on my machines. Attempting to show you how I make them here on TH-cam, tutorial-style. Let’s learn together ♡ Thanks for watching!
~FAQ~
Where are you from?: I'm a London girl made in Austria ♡
How old are you?: Born in 1993
Where/how did you learn to sew?: I attended Fashion School from age 15 to 19 but stopped sewing after that - learned it all over again in the last few years
What machine(s) do you use?: Brother Innov-Is A16 sewing machine and a Brother overlocker
What camera do you use?: Currently iPhone 13 Pro
Music: Epidemic Sound
If you attempt to recreate one of my projects for yourself I would love to see the result! Please tag me on Instagram via @thrillsandstitches or send me a message.
Etsy: ThrillsAndStitches
Instagram: @thrillsandstitches
Pinterest: https:www.pinterest.co.uk/thrillsan...
Business enquiries: thrillsandstitches@icloud.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hello all! Here is a follow up video to this tutorial that exemplifies how to modify a basic bodice block to make a different pattern: th-cam.com/video/5hN7JVONnfs/w-d-xo.html
thank you so much for this video and the modifications one. as a beginner sewist I tried this yesterday for the first time. it wasn't god knows what but i'm gonna try it again and again until i get it right. then i will modify it to make other things
Thank you SO MUCH. This is the first video I watch that's a real tutorial giving good DETAILLED instructions and actual math instead of telling me to buy their pattern or 'trace from a shirt you have'....... i made my first block EVER thanks to you and it fits really well! Still some small tweaks to make but overall it's really really good for a first time, i was expecting it to be wayy off bc i struggle with measuring myself lol, thank you so muchhhh
Thank you so much, I’m happy this is useful ☺️🙏
So many helpful tips, Thank you Elisa!😊😍
You're so welcome! Thank you ☺️
Thank you for this, it was so informative. I'd love to see the corresponding skirt block tutorial
Thank you! I’ll put it on my to-do list 👍
Thank you so much. I am making my wedding dress and no one has been as detailed as you. I appreciate this so much
Ohhhh, I am very happy this was helpful! Congrats and I hope your dress will turn out the way you want it xx
The best thing I have seen on the Internet today.😊
Thank you so much! Glad you found it helpful ☺️
Simple and easy method with a scope of trial and error method to learn.awesome video ❤
Thank you! Glad it’s helpful ☺️
Omg! Thank you so much! 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏I’m going to give it a try. Loved the tutorial ❤❤❤❤❤❤
You’re welcome and thanks for watching 😊 I hope it will turn out well!
@@ThrillsandStitches I did make it today. I just need to test it. Yeah! 😃😍
Amazing 🤩! What a great tutorial!
Thank you! ☺️
Thank you so much for this update, im going to do it again and see if anything has changed between this and the old one.
Please do! Hope it turns out well x
Hi everyone! Just a few notes I forgot to mention in the intro:
This method is an amalgamation of several tutorials I have followed (particularly this one: inthefolds.com/blog/2016/2/22/how-to-draft-a-bodice-block) plus my own learnings and experiences I've made, from fashion school to my more DIY approach in recent years.
This is not a professional or scientific method - it is what works for me.
Technically speaking anyone following this precisely should achieve a working result. Human proportions can be complex though and the result therefore might differ from what you see in my version.
I also need to add that I did, in fact, change one or two things compared to the first version of this method I shared last year (contrary to what I say in the intro). You can find old version here: th-cam.com/video/jMhMlSnn94g/w-d-xo.html
With that, I hope you give this method a try and share your learnings with the comment section! Happy drafting xx
Thanks for this! I made my first bodice draft the other day and it came out TEEEEEERIBLE. I'm looking forward to trying it again with this video lol
Oh dear, sorry to hear that! Hopefully it turns out better with this tutorial 🙏
this is soo informamtive! please do the sleeve pattern next
Will keep it on my to-do list ☺️
Well done!! Thank you.
Thank you! Glad it was useful ☺️
Thanks for making such an easy to follow video.
I tried this method twice and ended up with arm holes that went past the top of my bra band both times! Saw in a comment that the old pattern had point 17 on the armscye and I'm excited to try doing that tomorrow. I already altered the draft I had ready to cut out and it's looking better. 😊
Hi! Sorry for my super late response - the armhole is a tricky one, I feel more comfortable with a larger armhole which is why I used the bust line instead of the armscye line to suss out the armhole in this video, I realise this might not work for everyone! I hope your adjustments gave you a better fit.
you are amazing...verry importent to me....thanks a lot dr
So nice of you! Glad it helped!
Thank you ❤
You're most welcome! I hope it was useful 😊
Loved it
Thank you!
Youre the best.
Hope it helped :)
THANK YOU!!!!
Hope it was helpful!
Sending apologies. I'm one that hated it and didn't subscribe because of that. Then this video just popped in my feed because im still looking for a good tutorial. So here i am again. Giving a like just for the update.
Thanks!
Thank you for a very well explained tutorial. I have tried to draft tonight. I am wondering though, with a larger bust it doesn’t seem correct to put half of the bust circumference at the back. If I measure to the side seems my back has i10 cm less width than my front. I used these measurements instead. Will try the fit tomorrow. Any thoughts?
Hi, thanks for your question - it is very hard for me to give advice on two fronts here: I am a small busted girly so in full transparency I don't have a lot of experience with any adjustments that would need to be made to this method for a bigger bust.
And then I don't know which measurements you're using (you didn't actually write them out), so sadly can't help on that front.
This is a general guide to how I create bodice blocks but not a scientific method - I still hope it works out for you!
Thank for the tutorial.
Can you please explain how you calculated the dart length and dart width of back bodice?
The back dart width is explained in the dart calculation portion of the video. The length of the darts is arbitrary but are long enough so they give a nice fluid appearance when sewn. Generally speaking they shouldn't cross the bust line. Hope this helps!
@@ThrillsandStitches Thanks a lot.
Your tutorial helped me so much! My first decent bodice block is almost done thanks to you. But quick question, what to do if chest area are too big?
Ive adeed invincible zipper, cut the armhole seam allowance and its a perfect fit, no adjustment made. Thank you so much for this, been trying to a well fitted bodice for 3 years now, and today you changed my life!
Hi there, so sorry for my late response! Happy you were able to adjust it and so glad this tutorial was helpful for you :) Don't forget to keep the base as a template! There's so much you can do with the block, and I sometimes use it to demonstrate how I make my patterns :)
Thanks so much can you please share the sleeves pattern as well
I'll have a think about it! Glad this was helpful :)
Very nice, thanks! Is it possible to take the darts out (eg. for a jersey dress?)
Yes you can! I will post a video soonish where I show how to do this with one of my Etsy patterns. As it’s stretch, you simply remove the width taking it from the side seam. I would still leave around 1cm ease though, for comfort.
Hi, Thanks for the video! I was just wandering why you extend the centre front by 2cm, what’s the thinking behind it? And would it affect the waistline if you were to add a skirt to it? Thanks again, this has been really helpful!
Heya! Thank you hope it's useful - CF extension is something I learned in school, it's something to do with the fitting process and that the belly is an extension of the front length vs the center back, which needs to be shorter.
Adding a skirt wouldn't necessarily change the waistline, unless there's a certain design to it, like a V-shape or similar.
Thank you so much! So excited to make my own, as well as bodice blocks for some family members!
Would the process be the same for making bodice blocks for men & children? If not, do you know what would be changed?
Hey, thank you for your comment! I am glad the tutorial is useful for you ☺️ Regarding whether it is applicable to men & children - I truthfully don’t know! My experience is mainly focused on women’s fashion. I would assume that it would work, but nothing better than to give it a try! If you do I would love to know how it turned out ☺️
@@ThrillsandStitches Will do! Thanks!
Did it work for the men? I'd love to know for sure... I'm still a couple months out from reuniting with mine but would love to have the option...
Personally, I’d pay for a pdf of this method. Please let us know if you make and post one.
Thank you, I will definitely let you know!
Anything extra to know for those of us who are shortwaisted?
Oh, and I'm from the US South, but I've worked in Oxford UK!
I began sewing because my clothes need a lot of alterations to look nice. And that's a challenge in our heat where everyone owns a lot of thin fabric items, due to the heat.
Hey! Lovely to hear about your sewing journey - we do have a heatwave here in the UK at the moment so thin fabric items are of the essence :D
To your question: nothing particular that I can think of, technically it should work the same for any person seeing that you use your own particular measurements - that being said, proportions can be complex and some might be challenging for this method. That's why it's important to trial the block and apply the changes to the paper pattern so you have a perfectly fitted pattern you can reuse. I hope you give it a try and share your learnings!
Will this work for a plus size bodice? I feel like some of the standard changes would be different but I don’t know where to find the resources!
Technically speaking, it should work for any size! I do have to say though that I have limited experience with drafting bodice blocks in other sizes than my own. I hope you give it a try and let me know how you get on!
Would the armscye line be the same as high bust line?
It should always sit above the bust line - just on the height of your armpits.
Thank you for this tutorial ❤
I have a question, - the last steps (front darts) are the "third portion" of your 10cm bust/waist difference, or? So I have to use my own measurments, not your 2cm front side seam and 4cm front waist dart?
(Edit: now that I watched the video again, I think it's obvouis that I have to use my own dart/seam measurments.. sorry for this silly question😶)
Thank you once again.
Hi! Sorry for my super late response - yes you are correct, you'll need to use your own measurements. Hope the bodice block turned out!
Question, I'm someone who prefers tunic length tops... Does that have any bearing on how i build my bodice block?
My hips also flair much wider than my waist and bust... Would that make a difference in my draft?
Hey there! Yes that would make a difference - the bodice block is meant to be a representation of your measurements for a well fitted garment. However, it’s the starting point for most things you would want to make. So basically, you would make the block and then modify it to create a tunic. The block is like a template :)
Question. The neck line. Should it on the pattern be the neckline for tshirt, so quite high? Or for where you personally like your "standard" neckline to be? Feel like if it's high you would need to adjust it every time.
In the construction process the neckline is a crew neck, like for a t-shirt. In the second step, which is the fitting process, you will adjust the neckline for a perfect fit, but it's still a crew neck. It's a basic bodice block that allows you to quickly whip up different styles with different necklines, but keeping it as a crew neck is standard :)
@ThrillsandStitches thank you for explaining. I really appreciate that. I guess it makes sense to have the basic bodice as crew neck because then you can go anywhere from there.
Hello just wanted to to say this is a great video, thank you so much. But as you do the waist area I. your video we cannot see how you adjust and shape your new waist line and darts. Thank you again.
Thank you and sorry about that! Let me know if there's a specific question or issue, maybe I can help.
I've followed this today, but I don't know how to go from the step where scrap fabric darts sewn in, to where you are wearing the mock up? How do I connect the front and back pieces at the shoulders and sides and actually put it on??
You'll have to sew the front and the back of the bodice together, namely at the shoulders and the sides (from the armpit down to the waist), and leave the back open to get in.
@@ThrillsandStitches thank you. I ended up pinning the sides after putting it on. Unfortunately seemed way out of proportion for me, I think BC my bust and waist are very close together.
Hi... What if you don't want a shoulder dart, will closing it affect the waistline?
Or waist dart?
Hi! Yes it will, depending on where you migrate the dart to. So, if you want to remove the shoulder dart, close it and migrate the width either to the bust or the waist. You could have it all in the waist, but then the dart will become very big, so you might want to cut it and press it open when you sew to remove any bulk. Hope that makes sense!
@@ThrillsandStitches yes it makes sense. Thank you! ❤️
How would I distribute 12.5 three ways?
4.2 each.
Thank you so much, that's exactly how I did i.t@@ThrillsandStitches
thank you for the updated version! but in the previous one you were starting the armhole from armscye line but here you started from the bust line, is this just for the purpose of creating a bigger/looser armhole?
Yes, that was my approach! I would say it depends on how far your bust and armscye line are apart from each other. If the distance is far (that would be the case if you have a larger bust circumference) then I would suggest to apply the measurement on the armscye line.
@@ThrillsandStitches got it! Thanks again for the tutorial - it is definitely one of the best I saw here on yt 👍👍
Terei que aprender a entender o inglês para fazer junto contigo 😢
You can do it! 🙌 Maybe subtitles would help?
Hi❤❤❤
☺️
I think I may have done this wrong cause my points 17 and 19 are literally 16cm apart.. oops
I guess I just have a super narrow back compared to my bust
Oh wow, that is indeed a far distance between those two points! How did the block turn out in the end? It might be worth doing a double take on your measurements see if the issue light stem from there.
@@ThrillsandStitches Okay so it’s the back measurement that’s the problem, I measured by myself and got 24cm and then I asked someone else and they got 44 but that seems too far over!!