Step by Step Bodice Block Tutorial | How to Start Drafting Your Own Patterns | Thrills and Stitches
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- Thank you for all the love on this video - I appreciate that many of you have questions about this method. I am not able to answer every question with the attention they deserve, but I have recorded myself creating another bodice block with the same method recently, please find this updated version here: • Updated DIY Bodice Blo...
In this video I will explain how to draft a bodice block to your own measurements, step by step.
The best way to watch this video is with your tools in hand, headphones on, and listening to each step one by one.
To draw this to size you will need:
- Measuring tape
- Long ruler
- Curved uler/pattern master
- Erasable pen and sharpie to trace once you're done
- Scissors
00:00 Intro
02:10 Taking your measurements
1. Waist circumference
2. Bust circumference
3. Neck circumference
4. Nape of neck to waist
5. Nape of neck to bust
6. Armscye (nape of neck to just under your armhole)
7. Apex to apex
8. Shoulder length
9. Back width
04:35 Step 1: Constructing the grid
A) Construct CB
B) Draw the bustline
C) Draw the waistline
D) Draw your center front
E) Mark the armscye line
06:32 Step 2: Constructing the bodice back
A) Construct back neckline
B) Drafting the back shoulder seam
C) Drafting the shoulder dart
D) Draw your side seam
E) Drafting the back bodice armhole
F) Constructing the back darts
Waist dart calculation:
Subtract your waist measurement from your bust measurement and divide your answer by 2.
Divide this number by three, so that it can be distributed throughout back dart, front dart and side seam.
E.g:
Bust 88 cm - Waist 72cm = 16 cm
16 cm divided by 2 = 8 cm
We need to divide these 8 cm in 3 areas, your side seam, as well as the front and back dart. I like to use less in my side, and more in my darts:
3 cm for the back dart
3 cm for the front dart
2 cm for the side seam
09:57 Step 3: Constructing the bodice front
A) Drawing your front neckline
B) Marking the bust apex
C) Draft the front shoulder dart
On your CF line, measure 0.5 cm up from point 24
Calculation of the front shoulder dart:
For every 4 cm increment above or below 88 cm bust circumference, subtract or add 0.4 cm.
If your bust circumference is 84 cm, subtract 0.4 cm from 7, if it is 92, add 0.4 cm, and so on.
Take your shoulder measurement and add the correct dart width cm.
E.g shoulder width 11 cm + 7.4 cm (bust of 92) = 18.4 cm
D) Mark your front side seam
E) Finish your front armhole
F) Draw your side seam
G) Construct your front waist dart
H) Extend your CF line to finish the bodice
13:49 Crosschecking
This tutorial is not scientific, but it is an amalgamation of a few different ways to draft a well fitting bodice block, and I have found this work the best for me.
For another take, visit inthefolds.com (unsponsored, unaffiliated): inthefolds.com/blog/2016/2/22/how-to-draft-a-bodice-block
While I usually show you my sewing journey from initial project idea to finished garment, I wanted to give you the key to unlocking pattern drafting for yourself. I hope this gives you inspiration and motivation to get yourself a sewing machine or dust off the one you already have and get going. You can do it!
~Would love to connect with you~
I’m Elisa and I'm passionate about fashion and try to bring my designs to life on my machines. Attempting to show you how I make them here on TH-cam, tutorial-style. Let’s learn together ♡ Thanks for watching!
~FAQ~
Where are you from? I'm a London girl made in Austria ♡
How old are you? Born in Nov 1993
Where/how did you learn to sew? I attended Fashion School from age 15 to 19 but stopped sewing after that - learned it all over again in the last 3 years
What machine do you use? Brother Innov-Is A16 sewing machine and a Brother overlocker
What camera do you use? Currently iPhone 13 Pro
If you attempt to recreate one of my projects for yourself I would love to see the result! Please tag me on Instagram via @thrillsandstitches or send me a message.
Instagram: @thrillsandstitches
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Enquiries: thrillsandstitches@icloud.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Thanks so much for all the love on this tutorial! I appreciate that many of you have questions about this method. Unfortunately it isn't possible for me to answer each question with the full attention they deserve. I recorded myself drafting a bodice block recently and posted it as an update to this video. If you find this version too hard to follow or find questions arise that this version doesn't answer, maybe the new video will help: th-cam.com/video/zsED92D1qm4/w-d-xo.html
My brain is melting out of my head, i got lost so fast, BUT i still think this is very helpful and im looking forward to re watching 35 times and follow along until i get it.
Awww I‘m sorry it’s confusing! I hope you’ll get through it, if you have questions I will try to help.
Totally agree. 😳😂
oh good, I'm glad it wasn't just me got lost 😀
❤❤❤❤dittttoooo! But so concise!
Same here😂
This is one of the best tutorials I have come across as a beginner. Thanks so much Thrills & Stitches for this brilliant guide
Thank you so much! I appreciate it 🙏
Love how you have taken the vertical measurements yourself. It's such a practical approach.
Thank you! ☺️
This is the best, and only explanation of the block I have seen. Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you, I‘m glad it helped! ☺️
Very nice and clear!
Thank you!
This will be very useful, thank you 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm glad to hear it! Let me know if you give it a try :)
Thank you so much! This is so helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m so glad I found you! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it helps 🙏
Thank you. The video is very fast, but very well illustrated.
Thanks, hope it’s helpful!
Great! 😊
Thank you! It's like painting by numbers, but different :)
Thank you!!!
Hope it was useful ☺️🙌
Thank you 👍🙏
Hope it helped!
awesomeee
Thank you ☺️
Thanks a million times! This is the first time I feel confident with a block I made. I have the Fashion Design by Helene Joseph Armstrong and have never really succeeded until now! Thank you. Please do you have a video on sleeves?
Thank you for watching, I am glad it is useful for you ☺️ I don’t have a video on sleeves but I‘ll keep it in mind for a future video!
Thank for sharing this, can’t wait to try it!! I struggle so much with buying sewing patterns and the finished product never sits right because of my body type. Have you made a video that shows an example of how you use the bodice block or how you draft your patterns off of it? Thanks again
Thank you Sarah! Check out my more recent videos - I use my bodice block regularly and show how I alter it to achieve different looks ☺️
I got lost quickly, but I still think this is very useful
I am looking forward to a new lesson illustrated by applying to a size of your choice in the same way
Thank you so much! It’s on my to-do list to re-record this video and I will try to include some new things like dart migration as well 🙏
Great.. 😊
Thanks 😊
@@ThrillsandStitches welcome.. waiting for the foot pedal vids.. haha. Have a nuce day.😊
Hi, thank you for sharing this video. I've attempted to follow this video however, it seems that my waist circumference has shrunk. Could this be due to adding the darts? Might need to redo it again with 1/2 the waist in addition to the dart distance - I also had a similar problem with the front bodice shoulder dart however, I managed to realise while I was drafting it.
Hi Jemma, thanks for watching and trying the tutorial :) Hm that is curious. I just followed the tutorial myself again (needed a new sloper anyways) to see if I run into the same issues.
If you follow the dart calculation correctly, you should end up with the right waist circumference in the end: bust circumference minus waist circumference - divide the result by 2 (to get the dart amounts for 1/2 of your body) and divy that up in 3 spots - front dart, side seam, and back dart. If you then also measure correctly (I know that can sometimes be a problem) then you should be good!
As we are only working with the difference of your bust to your waist, you shouldn't have to add anything to your waist to get the correct outcome in the end (also that wouldn't be possible because you don't know how much to account for the darts before doing the calculation).
That's a long-winded answer to something we can't proof - maybe try it again to see if the result is different :) I hope it works out this time!
@@ThrillsandStitches Thanks Elisa, will definitely give it another go!
Thanks for this tutorial !! I’m strugling with the front up darts… how do you determine the ligne between the point 23 and 29 ? (I re did the front 3 times and my armhole never corespond to the back that I did well)
Hi Coline! I‘m so sorry for my late response here - what you need to do is to take your shoulder measurement and find it on your ruler. Find point 23 and place the beginning of your ruler or tape measure there. With the shoulder measurement in mind, pivot until you cross the guideline you drew out from point 28.
After that you continue to finish the shoulder with the dart measurement you have to calculate (explained at 11:05)
I hope that helps somewhat!
@@ThrillsandStitches Hi- I'm having trouble here too. The shoulder minus the dart ends up way too small. Are we supposed to add the dart calculation to the shoulder length when drawing the line from pt 23? I'm not sure what you mean by having the shoulder measurement "in mind." btw- I really love your vids and the amazing cute stuff you make.
EDIT: Nevermind! I guess it should have been obvious to add the dart width to the shoulder measurement for the front bodice. I did so and it turned out perfect. Thanks again for your videos. 🥰
@@magicmole hi, I'm glad you figured it out and it worked! :) happy sewing xx
@@magicmole Your answer solved my problem there! Thanks a lot :)
Can you explain why you use a shoulder dart instead of a bust dart? Thank you!
Hi! No specific reason other than that’s how I know to do it - I always construct my bodice this way and manipulate the dart if I need to move it to the bust. I make an incision in the shoulder dart (along one side) and another one exactly where I want the bust dart to be - I then pivot the shoulder dart closed and a new dart in the bust appears, meaning the complete dart width just gets moved into the bust area.
Would this bodice block be the same for both woven and knit/stretch?
Yes! The fitting process might change depending on whether the garment is supposed to be loose or tight fitting, but the bodice stays the same.
Hey, I have another problem with 12:09 : my point 32 is farther right than my point 29. I got pt. 29 by joining points 23 with the guideline from 28 with a 13 cm guideline, since that’s what my shoulder measurement is. If I square out from my point 31 by 7.4 cm, it passes point 29 by almost 1.5 cm. I have double checked that my point 25 (bust apex) is where it should be (by taking the apex to apex and dividing by two), and it all just doesn’t compute. If I connect point 30 with point 32, it’s already farther right than point 29, so I can’t draw my arm hole from either 29 or 32 because it would clip into the space of the dart, which is physically impossible to sew.
That being said, my space between 23 and 27 is much wider than yours is in the video. But if you get point 27 from squaring up from 25, and I already double checked my point 25, what can I do???
I made another tutorial demonstrating the same method IRL rather than on my computer, if you’re still keen check it out here: th-cam.com/video/zsED92D1qm4/w-d-xo.html
To measure the back width, is it from side seam to side seam?
It’s a little set in from where your side seam would be - when you look at your back the distance between armpit and armpit should be it!
Hi. Do you have an illustrated step by step? I guess i could follow and do one myself!😮😮 3:16
Check out this version of the tutorial: Updated DIY Bodice Block Tutorial |
th-cam.com/video/zsED92D1qm4/w-d-xo.html
Please what is the name of the app you are using to construct it?
I used Canva to illustrate the process, it’s not a pattern drafting tool though.
Hi! Where is the dress you’re currently wearing from?
Hi I got this second hand and actually don't own it anymore - sadly I can't remember the brand name!
Where did you get the calculation of the front dart?
It’s a mix of what the In The Folds blog suggests and my own experience/learnings
@@ThrillsandStitches that's awesome! thank you for sharing! :)
Hey may I please ask, at 11-12min what if my burst circumference is 82
I am not sure what you mean by this, but as long as your waist is smaller than your bust this should work as shown
🙏♥️👍
🥰
how long is the bust line? is it the circumference
It's half your bust circumference + 10 cm (distance on the grid between your front and back)
What does the distance between front and back mean?
Hey, I’m kinda confused at what goes on at 6:16 . She says to use the armscye measurement, but mine is literally the same as my neck to waist measurement. She halves it, right? With the extra length she says to add to the armscye, it ends up being longer than my center back, so I obviously cant use that. This measurement isn’t on the chart, so I’m wondering what it is that she did. Please help! I need to figure this out soon for a project I’m making for someone else.
Or is this maybe the measurement for the nape of the neck to the armscye?
Yep that’s it. Okay. Crisis averted and problem solved.
Glad to hear it!
@ThrillsandStitches I'm still very confused by point 11. I can't get it to work. I've slowed the video down and gone over it several times. So, you take your nape to armscye measurement, ÷5 then subtract 0.5? I don't see how you know what angle your line needs to be from point 10. 😢
Sounded easy... Until I tried... Lol
Oh haha, sorry to hear that! I might do another version of this soon
Sorry, but totally confused. At timestamp 6:20 you mention the "arm side measurement". I did not see you taking any "arm side measurement" (?).
It’s armscye, as shown in the measurement taking section from 02:10
I would love to understand your tutorial completely, but you are talking so fast that it is difficult to follow your instructions. I look it over and over again, but it is still difficult to follow when the sewing-words is not my daily language.😢
Sorry for that! There is a second version of this tutorial on my channel now - maybe it is easier to follow! th-cam.com/video/zsED92D1qm4/w-d-xo.html