Just a thought, if you need he turbo closer, remove the fuel tank and use that space for the turbo and are set up. Build a fuel tank where the airbox was and use an electric fuel pump for fuel delivery. You would have to build a heat shield fake tank around the turbo but this may give enough room to make it work. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
The position of the turbo matters. The best place for it is as close to the exhaust side of the engine as possible with the air intake on the turbo facing forward.
@@JumperXxXCables correct. However, there are companies that make turbo systems for corvettes that place them 4 ft from the motor. Sometimes the ideal set-up isn't the best set up for the application.
Agreed. The pressure boost is sometimes ducted a distance to a throttle body or the intake in the case of direct injection, but with carbureted turbo it's always practically sitting on motor's intake ports.
Really cool stuff. The #1 reason I like your videos is they are honest, you show your mistakes. Back in the early 90's one aftermarket company was making plastic 2 stroke silencers so me and my cousin made one out of pvc and it seemed to work good until we went for a longer ride. He was riding the bike and I was following on my 200x. It got warm and went limp, started flopping around like crazy. I almost crashed I was laughing so hard.
The oil drain on the turbo's center section needs to be straight down. You will need to clock the housings to get everything lined up right. Hopefully the bearings will still be good once it's all buttoned up.
They just don’t make enough power man. They are what they are. It’s an air cooled Honda. What makes 40 horse of your lucky 😂 turbos aren’t easy son. People don’t realize what u need to make a turbo work. 😂 u get all these Honda wankers. They wanna slap a turbo on from eBay for a couple bucks. Don’t realize that it really cost about 10k to put a turbo on. U need more than just a damn turbo. Especially on a bike. U need a bigger carb. Bigger jets. U need to completely redo every thing. There’s no way u can get that turbo close enough to the manifold. It’s a 2:1 exhaust. 😂. U could do it. But like the kid said. Never done it. It could work. With the right know how. I wouldn’t even do it. I mean your gonna get what your gonna get out of that. It’s meant for the gf to have fun on while u have fun on the race quad 😂 it’s really just so the girl can ride too 😂
@@checkforfleas9452 ebay turbo, intercooler, custom turbo header/s, and oil lines 😂 bout $500 for a turbo. unless you’re trying to push 800hp at 35psi you don’t need 10k to turbo anything… my v6 mustang is completely stock running 7psi on an ebay turbo at 240hp and it was less than $600 to do everything in my front yard …
@@travisbellew7485 have u bump your head 😂 it’s wrong. Your pushing more air into the system. Therefor u need more gas to that mixture. The only one ways to get more gas is bigger injectors if u have them. Or bigger jets on a carb. If we are working with a carbed motor. Then yes. U can do that. But if your talking fuel injectors no way. Your crazy. In order to even make the fuel mixture right u will need an ecu and bigger injectors. Your air fuel ratio will be off. Not to mention the codes it’s going to throw. I know people love to hear back fires. That’s great. Sounds cool. But it’s wrong. That’s pure simple fact that the ratios are off. That ain’t good for the motor 😂 run a turbo for 600 bucks your crazy. Your one of those Honda wankers. Good go blow your shit up like the rest 😂 sure u can buy a turbo and pipping for 600 bucks that’s great. But how in the hell are u going to make it shoot more fuel to make up for that extra air? Duh a bigger injector and a tuneable ecu. Or if we’re talking older. Bigger jets. I know the kid is doing it cheap. It was just a damn statement. But even if we are talking older cars with carbs. I would never run a turbo. I would run a super charger. But u knew that 😂 your talking American muscle. It’s really only good for drag. U want speed. Buy a fucking Honda. Sure American cars can be fast too. But simple fact is. It has to be done right. Doesn’t only cost 600 bucks 😂 your crazy.
@@ryanyt2282 right. Just a statement 😂 I know what he’s trying to do. It can be done. He has to find that right mix. It’s cheap bc it is a carb. So I don’t need much of nothing. Just a pain in the ass. It would be real simple if it were injected. Probably should’ve noted that I was talking about a Honda car 😂 damn didn’t realize that. No it’s not 10k to do a bike. Sure. U could probably turbo that bike for a couple hundred bucks. I was just saying is it really worth it. That motor is great for it’s time. Yea it’s still great. But not like newer shit. Shit I have an 82 250r and I love that bike. Has a lot of power for what it is. But wouldn’t waste my time to put a turbo on it 😂 not for 7 psi lol and a headache 😂.
I love watching this channel because it shows even when you're completely clueless you can still have a good time. The Internet is ridiculous these days because there is so much wrong information. Like whoever told you to put an expansion chamber in your already-too-long charge pipe. Back in the day you could get your engineering info from actual books written by experts. If you want to know what you're doing in regards to turbocharging, I recommend reading "Maximum Boost" but Corky Bell. That way you won't just be wasting your time and energy. I know how much it sucks to spend hours fabricating only to realize it's not gonna work, and having to scrap everything and start over.
KMJ use to sell a turbo kit for 400ex and the DS 650 several years ago and I’ve put a turbo on a 300ex several years ago and piping it up is the easy part . Figuring out the fuel delivery and pressure needed for the amount of boost and waist gate pressure release is a trial and error time consuming process and there is not much help on the internet to make it happen. Good luck you are gonna need it
If you look at any turbocharged vehicle the turbo is nearly always directly on the exhaust as it comes out the engine. The air feed can then be fed into the carburettor from there you don't want to be moving the carburettor as it is designed to work where it is
put carb back on engine stock position, run the air outlet tube to it, shorten distance of turbo from the carb, will need fuel pump and regulator, also widen gap in spark plug, use higher octane fuel so no detonation, and you might want to check that turbo over. Wasn't a great idea to weld close to it.
@@beereadyyy9849 Yeah a tighter gap is needed under boost the spark doesn’t want to travel through the higher pressure air, if he used a larger gap it will likely blow the spark out under boost.
carb is to far away from the intake fuel is not atomised by the time it might get to the intake valve lol. love your videos dude i look foward to the future videos of this monster. peace from uk
Turbo needs to be closer to the head due to the draw through design. Fuel is going to fall out of suspension that far away with such a small turbo for the application. Also will have to be jetted a lot. All circuits. Curb idle mixture, needle and needle jet. And obviously main jet. Oil feed needs to be @ 12 oiled drain needs to be @ 6. I’ve done many air cooled vw engines with a draw through turbo. Work great! Just takes a lot of adjustment to get the fuel curve right.
You have a lot more work than you think to install the turbo on that quad. Clock your oil inlet on top and drain out the bottom. It took me around 2 weeks to get the turbo set up on my '79 Honda CBX and get everything dialed in, that included shortening the advance curve and installing the complete exhaust system from an old ATP kit. Plan on retarding the spark and recurving it if you can. This kit is a suck-through setup and uses a huge S&S single carb reconfigured for turbo usage. My bike is still a rocketship some 30 years later since I did the turbo install. This will be interesting! Thanks Joe!
With that mile long intake the fuel probably just pools somewhere if its even sucked out of the carb. I think a blow through setup might be better with the carb in the stock position assisted by a fuel pump and the turbo where you have it now.
There was a turbo 400ex that used to run around silver lake dunes in michigan. It never ran very good. We had several turbo carbed yfz450s back in the day. Tyson racing in the D had them figured out pretty good.
because when the intake valve opens the turbo has no energy to drive it. you need at LEAST 2 cylinders for turbo to even think about being viable. but really you wont find a factory turbo thats less than 3.
@@grenadegoboom4967 The turbo yfz450s that i have been around would beg to difer with you. They were faster than most anything on the dunes, but the fastest drag banshees
@@rogerthomas3798 LMAO. sure pal. funny story, im the guy that builds the chassis for those banshees that whip your ass. Ever heard of Tatum? You might be surprised who i actually am. This is my kids account.
@@grenadegoboom4967 I have a drag banshee as well (565cc twister). I have raced with some of the fastest guys in the country. I have never heard of you. I have not raced much in a few years though.
@@grenadegoboom4967 Why do people say this? Yeah single cylinder turbocharging isn’t ideal but it CAN be done and it works extremely well, but of course the more cylinders the better but to say that the turbo isn’t being driven during the intake stroke is silly, there is a thing called inertia and you have to realise the time between the valves being open is milliseconds it’s not as if the turbo spins and stops between exhaust pulses 😅
Keep doing what u do you've inspired me to do what u do iv redone my 2008 ktm250sx and just recently got a 2002 yamaha blaster project I'm working on that I got for 500 "keep fixing the broken "
The distance between the carburetor and intake valve is WAY too far away. Try a different configuration to try and get the carb closer to the engine, it doesn't matter if the exhaust pipe has to travel further.
Definitely need to reroute this closer to the intake, make sure the carb inlet is as far away from the exhaust as you can get it too. This will be a ripper if you pull it off. Good luck. 🤞🤟
Interesting upgrade. Hope it hauls. - Had 1996 Ski Doo 670 MXZ that had a small primer pump on the dash took fuel from one of the lines and injected a small shot into the intake near the head. Not much to it. There was no starting that sled cold without it. Could work well for this type of application. (May not need a primer if the carb was way closer to the intake port)
Here's my thoughts on the turbo set up. You need to mount the carb as normal so it's getting fuel to the engine. You then could front mount the turbo from the exhaust. You could then run an air intake pipe from the turbo to the carb and put bigger jets in to compensate for the higher airflow fuel mix. The way your doing it fuel doest need to go threw the turbo only air and exhaust.
@@scottw2157 the floats won't stick they are there to control the fuel flow in to the carb for it to mix with the air. The float bowl is essential a mini sealed fuel tank. Fuel in the bowl will pass threw the jets to be atomised to mix with air that's why I suggested bigger jets to compensate for more air going in to the engine. Like I said only thing needed to go threw the turbo is air and exhaust.
The intake on the carb is right next to a joint on the exhaust. You might be taking exhaust from a leak right into the intake. It was me I'd move the carb closer to the engine. Just my 2 cents.
Bro I’ve been watching your videos since you first started out and you have learned so much bye your mistakes and come along so much I’m old school and I have learned everything myself bye doing things the same as you your channel is brilliant and I love it and so glad you can earn a living out of your videos well done bro keep up the great work your doing from Malcolm 🇬🇧 uk
Hey man love the idea! One of my buddies told me you're from Wisconsin. That's why I started watching your channel I live in west bend Wisconsin !!! I remember seeing that post for the Polaris predator you did a video on haha
Well… couple of things…firing a turbo dry will destroy it quickly…it won’t idle because the carb is too small…you should definitely use the coolant jacket because that turbo isn’t designed to be air/oil cooled and will trash the bearings and seals
mate its watercooled for a reason so make it that way otherwise your going to stuff it.. it's going to overheat big time you have to water cool it or pop.. rember it's small and can rev very high and get's hot AS
You Should make a exhaust extraction pipe so You can run Your engines in the shop and vent the exhaust out Your workspace I've got one it works great...
You need to blow through the carb. Get a 34mm CV style mikuni carburetor, and a malpassi boost reference fuel pressure regulator. Get ahold of me I can help. I just boosted an old Yamaha warrior
@@miksu7784 that’s like saying it doesn’t matter which way a fan faces it would blow the same. It does matter and you that’s why all turbos are installed the same way.
Trick racing used to have a turbo 400ex around 2003 or so. I am not trying to be disrespectful, but the turbo need pressureised oil to live, the bike barely started without your kit, I know it’s cold, but bro; 400ex’s start easy if everything is good and tuned correctly. It was already dangerously lean as is. You are going to need pressure oil from the 400 and probably get the turbo closer to the intake or closer to the exhaust side and put the carb in a pressure box and add a fuel pump, If you stay carb, get a pumper carb like an fzr
Just an FYI when welding on any vehicle with an electrical system and a battery you should disconnect the battery before welding you can short out the whole electrical system with the welder
Would recommend putting the oil tank lower and pumping the oil into the turbo, so you have enough or more than enough oil but the down side would be if the pump goes out you would lose lubrication, just a thought
Okay here is a comment that might be important to think about, the turbo you picked is actually way too small for the TRX, I have quite a bit of experience with turboing all kinds of engines and my experience with the VZ21 is it’s great for small engines with less overall exhaust flow, but what you’ll find with this turbo is it will spool up really easily and be great down low but be very restrictive up top, the 400 is a fairly big engine for that turbo, I would recommend looking into a GT15 turbo or even a K03 as they will give you that screaming top end you’re looking for, I have a 650cc 4 cylinder side by side and it runs a large TD04 turbo from a car and even that turbo on such a small engine is able to make over 14psi of boost and still spools in the mid RPM’s, anyways hope this helps, great video! 👍
@@forzanoob I will do one day, life just got in the way of making TH-cam videos but I do appreciate the subscription! 🙏 Anyways the sxs is pretty interesting, it’s a Manco Deuce that I swapped a Yamaha XJ650 seca turbo engine into, it’s pretty mad really, it was a fun project, took me about a year to complete working on the weekends here or there, it’s deffo a one off 😀
Wow! What a bad ass idea! A first attempt at anything is always difficult and is a learning process. I am certain that if you keep at it, you'll be victorious and have a bad ass turbo on a 400ex! Keep up the good work dude!!!
From some research on turbos I think you are missing 2 key components and the position of the carburetor should stay factory. You're missing a compressor wheel on the inlet side of the turbo and your air coming in hooks to that and goes to a charged air cooler. Then on the exhaust side you're exhaust goes into the inlet on the turbo and then you can put your silencer on the exhaust out on turbo. Hope that helps. If you have any questions please feel free to reply.
I don't think you can use silicone to seal those cracks on the pressure side. It'll just blow it all out once you make boost. also, clock your turbo correctly. you're gonna kill it. Your turbo is a little far away, but honestly, compared to how far away it can be on a car and be fine, it'll be fine i think. You should probably get an electric fuel pump to help feed the turbo.
The BEST way to handle the oiling for the turbo is to run an oil line from the head feed pipe and the drain back to the crankcase vent on the bottom end. That will provide oil PRESSURE to the turbo's bearings and AVOID a secondary oiling system to fail.
the turbo needs to be as close to the engine exhaust port as possible, where the exhaust is at it's highest velocity. the outlet of the turbo needs to be piped as the air intake for your fuel system, which should be as close to the engines intake port as possible, you will need a suitable fuel injection system.
how do rear turbo front engine systems work then, the only thing that should really happen with longer tubes is lag, raising the rpm when it finally kicks in. i think the problem is the carb going directly in the turbo, i've seen it work but its cringe. just leave the carb where it's suppose to be and make a tube from there to the cold side of the turbo, plus your restricting boost making it suck through the carb. you really want the tube to be the same basic size as the carb inlet/turbo out. plus you have to compensate for the boost pressure or your carb will not pull fuel when done that way the boost will push the fuel back into the bowl which is the reason for the turbo carb mount, its a cheap carb pressure work around and i myself hate it. you need a carb that runs off a fuel pump so you can have more fuel pressure than boost like with turbo road cars that have carbs, they usually double the pressure of what ever boost is being ran to equal it out. fuel atomization is trash too having it so far away, its just going to all recombine and bead on its way back down to the 2 foot tube lol
If he makes it a draw through system he will be able to use the carburetor but if he is going to send boost through the carb there has to be a plenum made before the carb or it’s just gonna push fuel back down the jets. I’ll be amazed if he is able to make it work in 5 videos but I hope he has better luck than I had cause it took a while to get it to work right when I done it and I thought It would be no problem, shit I have no idea how much time I had in it before I got it dialed in good
@@matthewjohnson2495 yea that stock carb wouldn't work sending boost directly into it, there are plenty of carbs that would probly work that use fuel pumps. as long as you can make more fuel pressure than your boost it should work fine. efi conversion would be better tho. it'll work the way he has it eventually. also the carb he's using is designed to be tilted up slightly and its tilted down it's probly messing with the float i's probly closed so its not getting fuel.
He would have to have a intercooler if he was going to try to keep the turbo as close to the cylinder as possible and there is not enough room to do either one on a 400EX. The oil tank sits right in front of the motor so putting it back where he has it is about his only choice and it will allow some of the heat to dissipate before it gets to the turbo as well. A hot charge won’t help the performance or the life of the motor or turbo
Run turbo boost into the carburetor (carburetor stock factory location) run a boost pressure line into the gas tank so it pressurize's the fuel system under turbo boost (fuel pressure is equal to boost pressure keeping the carburetor float open under boost)
That's not the problem. The problem is the turbo makes too much boost for that little motor and is not being regulated. The engine can only take in some much air on the intake stroke then has to wait for 3 more strokes before it can take more air...where do you think the boost is gonna go?? thru the carb and out the overflow lines. There should be no problems with running a stock carb on it. you don't need a special blow thru carb. Any carb would work obviously a bigger carb that flows more cfm would be better but he is still using a stock motor with stock head and stock valves that probably flows like shit. so its all wasted boost. just add a BOV regulated to 5psi max and all the problems go away...then you get to the fun part...Jetting and tuning lol
I used the same Turbo on my 110cc Pitbike project, if you want feel free to check it out. In no way am I hating at all! But I can assure you that that 400EX will require a lot more CFM then what the VZ21 can produce, yes it will make 20PSI but the CFM is not enough to run the 400EX past like 4 o 5000 RPMS (maybe it will though I'm not 100% on that statement), However It will have a ton of Low End spool. If I were you I would also do a Blow through carburetor ditch the draw through idea because it will rev due to the turbo seal cannot handle vacuum and create a "vacuum leak" and start to suck oil which in turn will smoke like crazy, unless you modify the bearing Seal on the intake side.... which is almost impossible to find a seal kit for that turbo to do a Draw through set up. You will need to make sure to put Boost pressure into the Carburetor and a Fuel pump with a 1:1 Regulator. This video was ironic that I came across it though because I have had the plans to build a boosted 400EX and just came across this pretty cool! I'm here to watch and get ideas as well. On mine I'm going to use a TD03 Turbocharger.
Every video leaves me more intrigued in what’s to come next! A turbo 400ex? Yeah why not! Lol. Maybe some time in the future you can have a subscriber come help you with a build…i.e., me? Haha. I have a 97 dr200se enduro I bought for $250 in terrible condition and I got it running for a while, but it jumped timing so I tore it down. The bottom end is great so I don’t have to split the cases, just the top end luckily! I can’t find any markings on the cam gears for timing and I’ve done a lot of research. I think my cam gears are just wore out. But I learn a lot from your videos and I think I can figure it out because of your attention to detail and wealth of knowledge you drop on your videos. Thanks for doing what you do and keep up the great work Joe! Sending love from Tampa, FL!
I never seen or heard of a set up like that. So I couldn't tell you if it would like that with the way you have set up at the moment. I've always seen it with the boosted air going into the carb or throttle body. The carb atomizes the air / fuel mixture and goes into the intake. Having the air / fuel go thru the turbo and then to engine, in my opinion, would mess with the atomization of the air / fuel mixture and no control of how the engine ran. Also, I wonder how the turbo's bearings would hold up to the gasoline. Just some thoughts. Good luck.
Get the Carb back where it was, take fuel tank out and get carb n turbo fitted up close to the engine / exhaust (make a temp tank for now) this will make life so much easier and a can good chance it will work 👍
I know exactly what your problem is. I ran into the same thing. Your installing a turbo witch is providing multiple times the amount of air and the jets in the carburetor cant keep up with it. Id suggest a dynojet kit or just high power jets in your carburetor
Definitely run a filter or a velocity stack on that CV carburetor and figure on doubling the fuel at a bare minimum just for the carburetor without an airbox. That's before jetting for the turbo. What I'm saying is, start big.
Just to help you, put your turbocharger in normal position which is after carb to make it run, change gasket cylinder,buy fuel pressure regulator, you will need also petrol pump more psi, oil pump and canister,manifold-intercooler, and in the carb no matter what must change jets .Good luck
As many have already stated, this is all wrong. The carb needs to go back in stock position and the turbo needs to go very close to the motor exhaust port. You force air into the carb not suck it through the carb. There is so much more that this project needs that you don't have. No offense, but short of a bolt on kit this is just way out of your wheelhouse. Another thing to consider, single cylinder engines totally suck for turbo charging as well as carburetors, fuel injection works much better. Something definitely in your wheelhouse that will make some easy HP is a nitrous kit, go with a wet nitrous setup on a push button switch. No nitrous isn't free HP like a turbo, but it will give the effect your looking for and is much simpler to accomplish. I love the fact that you're trying, but there is just so much more involved in a successful turbo install then you realize. Also keep in mind, boost on a stock compression motor must be kept low, maybe 7-8 psi max, the rod and crank are under tremendous load when force feeding a motor. Like I said a wet nitrous kit on a push button switch is way easier and running up and down the road in front of your parents house it'll make your nuts tingle big time. Nitrous is like a turbo, you will have to be conservative on your spray or it will destroy the motor quickly. A 20hp shot of nitrous would be amazing and so much less involved than trying to turbo a such a bad candidate for a turbo. Do some research on the NOS setup, there is probably a ready to go kit available if you don't want to piece your own together. Keep it up, entertaining as always.
I’m thinking you should leave the carb in stock location then feed a charge pipe from the turbo to the carb. The carb is too far away to bring fuel into the motor
You can make a carburetor blow through instead of a draw through, would save alot of having to redesign the systems and less chances of a backfire burning up the whole quad cause the charge pipes have fuel blowing through them. Also, you have to keep compression in mind along with psi, don't need to grenade the motor. Also, there's no way for fuel to go through the line enough cause there's no way for that little bottle to vent and allow flow.
Once you get it running get rid of that K@N style filter and go back to a foam/oiled filter. Foam oiled does way better at filtering out small dirt particles. Save those cylinder walls
I would probably scratch my last comment and just leave the carb in stock location and figure it out from there. It ran with fuel close the motor, stock carb location and figure out configuring that carb, or a larger like 44mm for style carb jetted right. Oh hell ya dude
that turbo seems like if you clocked it right itd bolt up to the engine in place of the carb(the compressor side flange looks exactly like a carb base youll have to do some testing with this) looks as if you could bolt the compressor flange to the engine carb directly to the compressor intake wheel flange the exhaust pipe bent and gone directly to the turbo then a short pipe out the back to the original muffler
The oil inlets in the turbo has to be up and down unless there is pressure to support the oil demand for the bearings. The carb should be mounted between the outlet( cold side) of the turbo and the intake of the engine. Your fuel is getting disrupted by the impeller ( bad atomization)and not enough vacuum to suck the fuel in.
I've always heard with turbo single cylinders, there needs to be a chamber for compressed air 4.4X the engine displacement located between the turbo and throttle plate to see any benefit
Although this is usually for a blow-through setup. I'm not sure how well that carburetor will work. Grind Hard Plumbing Co had good luck with a VW bus air-cooled engine butterfly carburetor set up as a blow-through because it doesn't have a round slide that jams up under positive pressure. With theirs, they supercharged a 4 stroke dirt bike engine (CRF 450), so maybe something like that would work.
@@bradensmith888 Or use a thing called a blow off valve...its to relieve pressure when the throttle butterfly is closed or in this case the throttle slide is closed. much simpler and easier to implement. you could probably even make one out of an old rad cap.it would be good for about 10-15lbs or whatever the rad cap says. by no means is this the best way to do it but its a crude way of doing it lol
You don't need to start with 20psi of boost you will be way safer starting lower and working your way up because I assure you if everything like your fuel delivery and fuel octane and ignition timing isn't right it will destroy your engine and also your gonna need to change over to a colder spark plug and that will help with detonation also
@@johnbryant5086 I’ve done been down this road with the same 4wheeler and the same turbo so I kinda like seeing how other people do it and it took me a lot of trial and error time spent trying to get as much out of it that I could get and I think he will be lucky if it makes 8 pnds of boost. I’m not saying the turbo is not capable of making 20 pnds I’m saying a 400 cc single cylinder motor is not going to make big numbers. The turbo is designed for a small 4 cylinder motor and it probably doesn’t make 20 pnds on it
@@matthewjohnson2495 my son and I have two yfz450s that we put turbos on both are fuel injected with vortex ecu and we messed the engine up on the first one due to boost creep and detonation the yfz is a high compression motor and we had no problem making as much boost as the engine would take and our findings was 15 psi will destroy the engine
Just a thought, if you need he turbo closer, remove the fuel tank and use that space for the turbo and are set up. Build a fuel tank where the airbox was and use an electric fuel pump for fuel delivery. You would have to build a heat shield fake tank around the turbo but this may give enough room to make it work. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
That would be nice
And he probably needs a bigger pilot screw since it sounds like it runs super lean to the point where it stops
Very good idea.
The position of the turbo matters. The best place for it is as close to the exhaust side of the engine as possible with the air intake on the turbo facing forward.
@@JumperXxXCables correct. However, there are companies that make turbo systems for corvettes that place them 4 ft from the motor. Sometimes the ideal set-up isn't the best set up for the application.
Can't wait for part 2. But yes I agree with others that carb has to be wayyy closer to the engine. Keep up the creativity and stay warmm!!!!!
Agreed. The pressure boost is sometimes ducted a distance to a throttle body or the intake in the case of direct injection, but with carbureted turbo it's always practically sitting on motor's intake ports.
Really cool stuff. The #1 reason I like your videos is they are honest, you show your mistakes. Back in the early 90's one aftermarket company was making plastic 2 stroke silencers so me and my cousin made one out of pvc and it seemed to work good until we went for a longer ride. He was riding the bike and I was following on my 200x. It got warm and went limp, started flopping around like crazy. I almost crashed I was laughing so hard.
Acerbis made the plastic florescent color ones
wow soo funny nobody cares
@@busssintb5922 Your mom said to go clean your room.
@@busssintb5922 I thought it was funny nobody cares about your comment
The oil drain on the turbo's center section needs to be straight down. You will need to clock the housings to get everything lined up right. Hopefully the bearings will still be good once it's all buttoned up.
They just don’t make enough power man. They are what they are. It’s an air cooled Honda. What makes 40 horse of your lucky 😂 turbos aren’t easy son. People don’t realize what u need to make a turbo work. 😂 u get all these Honda wankers. They wanna slap a turbo on from eBay for a couple bucks. Don’t realize that it really cost about 10k to put a turbo on. U need more than just a damn turbo. Especially on a bike. U need a bigger carb. Bigger jets. U need to completely redo every thing. There’s no way u can get that turbo close enough to the manifold. It’s a 2:1 exhaust. 😂. U could do it. But like the kid said. Never done it. It could work. With the right know how. I wouldn’t even do it. I mean your gonna get what your gonna get out of that. It’s meant for the gf to have fun on while u have fun on the race quad 😂 it’s really just so the girl can ride too 😂
@@checkforfleas9452 ebay turbo, intercooler, custom turbo header/s, and oil lines 😂 bout $500 for a turbo. unless you’re trying to push 800hp at 35psi you don’t need 10k to turbo anything… my v6 mustang is completely stock running 7psi on an ebay turbo at 240hp and it was less than $600 to do everything in my front yard …
@@checkforfleas9452 10k on a car is normal if you buy quality parts but he’s turboing a quad with cheap parts don’t that much money man
@@travisbellew7485 have u bump your head 😂 it’s wrong. Your pushing more air into the system. Therefor u need more gas to that mixture. The only one ways to get more gas is bigger injectors if u have them. Or bigger jets on a carb. If we are working with a carbed motor. Then yes. U can do that. But if your talking fuel injectors no way. Your crazy. In order to even make the fuel mixture right u will need an ecu and bigger injectors. Your air fuel ratio will be off. Not to mention the codes it’s going to throw. I know people love to hear back fires. That’s great. Sounds cool. But it’s wrong. That’s pure simple fact that the ratios are off. That ain’t good for the motor 😂 run a turbo for 600 bucks your crazy. Your one of those Honda wankers. Good go blow your shit up like the rest 😂 sure u can buy a turbo and pipping for 600 bucks that’s great. But how in the hell are u going to make it shoot more fuel to make up for that extra air? Duh a bigger injector and a tuneable ecu. Or if we’re talking older. Bigger jets. I know the kid is doing it cheap. It was just a damn statement. But even if we are talking older cars with carbs. I would never run a turbo. I would run a super charger. But u knew that 😂 your talking American muscle. It’s really only good for drag. U want speed. Buy a fucking Honda. Sure American cars can be fast too. But simple fact is. It has to be done right. Doesn’t only cost 600 bucks 😂 your crazy.
@@ryanyt2282 right. Just a statement 😂 I know what he’s trying to do. It can be done. He has to find that right mix. It’s cheap bc it is a carb. So I don’t need much of nothing. Just a pain in the ass. It would be real simple if it were injected. Probably should’ve noted that I was talking about a Honda car 😂 damn didn’t realize that. No it’s not 10k to do a bike. Sure. U could probably turbo that bike for a couple hundred bucks. I was just saying is it really worth it. That motor is great for it’s time. Yea it’s still great. But not like newer shit. Shit I have an 82 250r and I love that bike. Has a lot of power for what it is. But wouldn’t waste my time to put a turbo on it 😂 not for 7 psi lol and a headache 😂.
This is a terrible idea. I love it. I've been thinking about doing this for a while.
This is getting interesting, it gets serious, when you start cutting, welding, and fabricating...Best of Luck, my 400EX is getting nervous .
I love watching this channel because it shows even when you're completely clueless you can still have a good time. The Internet is ridiculous these days because there is so much wrong information. Like whoever told you to put an expansion chamber in your already-too-long charge pipe. Back in the day you could get your engineering info from actual books written by experts. If you want to know what you're doing in regards to turbocharging, I recommend reading "Maximum Boost" but Corky Bell. That way you won't just be wasting your time and energy. I know how much it sucks to spend hours fabricating only to realize it's not gonna work, and having to scrap everything and start over.
KMJ use to sell a turbo kit for 400ex and the DS 650 several years ago and I’ve put a turbo on a 300ex several years ago and piping it up is the easy part . Figuring out the fuel delivery and pressure needed for the amount of boost and waist gate pressure release is a trial and error time consuming process and there is not much help on the internet to make it happen. Good luck you are gonna need it
If you look at any turbocharged vehicle the turbo is nearly always directly on the exhaust as it comes out the engine. The air feed can then be fed into the carburettor from there you don't want to be moving the carburettor as it is designed to work where it is
The issue is pressurizing the carb under boost with keeping it where it is. It wants air to be pulled through the carb not pushed through
put carb back on engine stock position, run the air outlet tube to it, shorten distance of turbo from the carb, will need fuel pump and regulator, also widen gap in spark plug, use higher octane fuel so no detonation, and you might want to check that turbo over. Wasn't a great idea to weld close to it.
Wouldn't you want a tighter gap on the plug not wider? And a colder spark plug overall aswell
@@beereadyyy9849 Yes, run a tighter gap, around .035" and run 1 or 2 ranges colder plug.
@@beereadyyy9849 Yeah a tighter gap is needed under boost the spark doesn’t want to travel through the higher pressure air, if he used a larger gap it will likely blow the spark out under boost.
carb is to far away from the intake fuel is not atomised by the time it might get to the intake valve lol. love your videos dude i look foward to the future videos of this monster. peace from uk
Now this is what I'm talking about... Hell Yeah
Sparks and slag flying into the turbo while welding, you should really cover them up during mock up
Turbo needs to be closer to the head due to the draw through design. Fuel is going to fall out of suspension that far away with such a small turbo for the application. Also will have to be jetted a lot. All circuits. Curb idle mixture, needle and needle jet. And obviously main jet. Oil feed needs to be @ 12 oiled drain needs to be @ 6. I’ve done many air cooled vw engines with a draw through turbo. Work great! Just takes a lot of adjustment to get the fuel curve right.
You have a lot more work than you think to install the turbo on that quad. Clock your oil inlet on top and drain out the bottom.
It took me around 2 weeks to get the turbo set up on my '79 Honda CBX and get everything dialed in, that included shortening the advance curve and installing the complete exhaust system from an old ATP kit. Plan on retarding the spark and recurving it if you can. This kit is a suck-through setup and uses a huge S&S single carb reconfigured for turbo usage. My bike is still a rocketship some 30 years later since I did the turbo install.
This will be interesting! Thanks Joe!
With that mile long intake the fuel probably just pools somewhere if its even sucked out of the carb. I think a blow through setup might be better with the carb in the stock position assisted by a fuel pump and the turbo where you have it now.
Yeah next video I change the setup on it.
Thats got to be the cutest little turbo i have ever seen 😵
A whole other level of going fast quick. Good luck
Your channel was already entertaining, a project like this just adds a cherry on top 💯👏🏾
I already know this video will blow up🔥
I can see a full engine rebuild coming
😭😭
Gotta get it their first😅
😆😆😆👍
There was a turbo 400ex that used to run around silver lake dunes in michigan. It never ran very good. We had several turbo carbed yfz450s back in the day. Tyson racing in the D had them figured out pretty good.
because when the intake valve opens the turbo has no energy to drive it. you need at LEAST 2 cylinders for turbo to even think about being viable. but really you wont find a factory turbo thats less than 3.
@@grenadegoboom4967 The turbo yfz450s that i have been around would beg to difer with you. They were faster than most anything on the dunes, but the fastest drag banshees
@@rogerthomas3798 LMAO. sure pal. funny story, im the guy that builds the chassis for those banshees that whip your ass. Ever heard of Tatum? You might be surprised who i actually am. This is my kids account.
@@grenadegoboom4967 I have a drag banshee as well (565cc twister). I have raced with some of the fastest guys in the country. I have never heard of you. I have not raced much in a few years though.
@@grenadegoboom4967 Why do people say this? Yeah single cylinder turbocharging isn’t ideal but it CAN be done and it works extremely well, but of course the more cylinders the better but to say that the turbo isn’t being driven during the intake stroke is silly, there is a thing called inertia and you have to realise the time between the valves being open is milliseconds it’s not as if the turbo spins and stops between exhaust pulses 😅
Joe we need to see some more videos of this kinda stuff im loving it 👍
Keep doing what u do you've inspired me to do what u do iv redone my 2008 ktm250sx and just recently got a 2002 yamaha blaster project I'm working on that I got for 500 "keep fixing the broken "
I love those little blasters. You can make them rip with a little work. Best bang for the buck.
The distance between the carburetor and intake valve is WAY too far away. Try a different configuration to try and get the carb closer to the engine, it doesn't matter if the exhaust pipe has to travel further.
Yeah I figured that. I feel like the turbo needs to be above the intake as well so it can use gravity to feed the fuel.
@@2vintage maybe an electric fuel pump?
@@2vintage yeah, 100% man. Great work buddy, keep it up.
@@BandedG that pump would only help getting fuel to the carburetor, but im thinking of adding a fuel pump as well for that purpose.
I agree. Also it is not helping that the temperature is -15. You wont get very good gas evaporation.
I made a 110cc Pitbike with a Turbo carburetor and it works very well when invited to the channel
Definitely need to reroute this closer to the intake, make sure the carb inlet is as far away from the exhaust as you can get it too. This will be a ripper if you pull it off. Good luck. 🤞🤟
He definitely doesn’t need to go that route the boost pressure will not let the fuel naturally vacuum pull out of the carb as it would do normally
&
Interesting upgrade. Hope it hauls.
- Had 1996 Ski Doo 670 MXZ that had a small primer pump on the dash took fuel from one of the lines and injected a small shot into the intake near the head. Not much to it. There was no starting that sled cold without it. Could work well for this type of application. (May not need a primer if the carb was way closer to the intake port)
carry this on ASAP dont leave it be a unfinished project really want to see this
Part 2 coming soon!
🔥🔥 can’t wait for this to be done 💪🏽
More of the custom stuff you don’t see often these make it a lot more interesting!
Here's my thoughts on the turbo set up. You need to mount the carb as normal so it's getting fuel to the engine. You then could front mount the turbo from the exhaust. You could then run an air intake pipe from the turbo to the carb and put bigger jets in to compensate for the higher airflow fuel mix. The way your doing it fuel doest need to go threw the turbo only air and exhaust.
He explained why he wanted to try the draw through. Blow through may cause the floats to stick.
@@scottw2157 the floats won't stick they are there to control the fuel flow in to the carb for it to mix with the air. The float bowl is essential a mini sealed fuel tank. Fuel in the bowl will pass threw the jets to be atomised to mix with air that's why I suggested bigger jets to compensate for more air going in to the engine. Like I said only thing needed to go threw the turbo is air and exhaust.
The intake on the carb is right next to a joint on the exhaust. You might be taking exhaust from a leak right into the intake. It was me I'd move the carb closer to the engine. Just my 2 cents.
Bro I’ve been watching your videos since you first started out and you have learned so much bye your mistakes and come along so much I’m old school and I have learned everything myself bye doing things the same as you your channel is brilliant and I love it and so glad you can earn a living out of your videos well done bro keep up the great work your doing from Malcolm 🇬🇧 uk
Hey man love the idea! One of my buddies told me you're from Wisconsin. That's why I started watching your channel I live in west bend Wisconsin !!! I remember seeing that post for the Polaris predator you did a video on haha
Well… couple of things…firing a turbo dry will destroy it quickly…it won’t idle because the carb is too small…you should definitely use the coolant jacket because that turbo isn’t designed to be air/oil cooled and will trash the bearings and seals
mate its watercooled for a reason so make it that way otherwise your going to stuff it.. it's going to overheat big time you have to water cool it or pop.. rember it's small and can rev very high and get's hot AS
You Should make a exhaust extraction pipe so You can run Your engines in the shop and vent the exhaust out Your workspace I've got one it works great...
You need to blow through the carb. Get a 34mm CV style mikuni carburetor, and a malpassi boost reference fuel pressure regulator. Get ahold of me I can help. I just boosted an old Yamaha warrior
The turbo is on the wrong port of the turbo. You have it on the intake inlet side and not the air out side of the compressor housing.
doesent matter wich way you make it...
@@miksu7784 that’s like saying it doesn’t matter which way a fan faces it would blow the same. It does matter and you that’s why all turbos are installed the same way.
@@stephendobson8905 havent you heard of a draw trough turbo setup before? you can make either drawtrough or an blowtrough. both will work..
@@miksu7784 of course but they suck and never run right, so I don't count them as the "correct" way to turbo a motor.
@@stephendobson8905 i own blowtrough car and it Works fine. Havnt owned an drawtrough so i have no experience in that. Only seen them online
This is awesome! Pumped to see this thing boosting hard
Hearing that fire up was music to my ears!!
Trick racing used to have a turbo 400ex around 2003 or so. I am not trying to be disrespectful, but the turbo need pressureised oil to live, the bike barely started without your kit, I know it’s cold, but bro; 400ex’s start easy if everything is good and tuned correctly. It was already dangerously lean as is. You are going to need pressure oil from the 400 and probably get the turbo closer to the intake or closer to the exhaust side and put the carb in a pressure box and add a fuel pump,
If you stay carb, get a pumper carb like an fzr
Just an FYI when welding on any vehicle with an electrical system and a battery you should disconnect the battery before welding you can short out the whole electrical system with the welder
Would recommend putting the oil tank lower and pumping the oil into the turbo, so you have enough or more than enough oil but the down side would be if the pump goes out you would lose lubrication, just a thought
Okay here is a comment that might be important to think about, the turbo you picked is actually way too small for the TRX, I have quite a bit of experience with turboing all kinds of engines and my experience with the VZ21 is it’s great for small engines with less overall exhaust flow, but what you’ll find with this turbo is it will spool up really easily and be great down low but be very restrictive up top, the 400 is a fairly big engine for that turbo, I would recommend looking into a GT15 turbo or even a K03 as they will give you that screaming top end you’re looking for, I have a 650cc 4 cylinder side by side and it runs a large TD04 turbo from a car and even that turbo on such a small engine is able to make over 14psi of boost and still spools in the mid RPM’s, anyways hope this helps, great video! 👍
You should upload a video of that sxs. I wanna see that. Going to sub just do i can see it hopefully
@@forzanoob I will do one day, life just got in the way of making TH-cam videos but I do appreciate the subscription! 🙏
Anyways the sxs is pretty interesting, it’s a Manco Deuce that I swapped a Yamaha XJ650 seca turbo engine into, it’s pretty mad really, it was a fun project, took me about a year to complete working on the weekends here or there, it’s deffo a one off 😀
This is exactly right. the vz21 is wayy to small..
@@KrustyQuad Right I reckon he could even run a K03 turbo just fine, that would probably be the best sized turbo 😅
Wow! What a bad ass idea! A first attempt at anything is always difficult and is a learning process. I am certain that if you keep at it, you'll be victorious and have a bad ass turbo on a 400ex! Keep up the good work dude!!!
Hi Joe there are a couple of vids on youtube that show how to do a blow threw carb for motorcycles . great job keep up the hard work and stay warm.
Try adding a fuel pump for later operation so you don't lose fuel pressure when riding
You could also add something in the intake going to the engine to better atomize the fuel
From some research on turbos I think you are missing 2 key components and the position of the carburetor should stay factory. You're missing a compressor wheel on the inlet side of the turbo and your air coming in hooks to that and goes to a charged air cooler. Then on the exhaust side you're exhaust goes into the inlet on the turbo and then you can put your silencer on the exhaust out on turbo. Hope that helps. If you have any questions please feel free to reply.
I don't think you can use silicone to seal those cracks on the pressure side. It'll just blow it all out once you make boost.
also, clock your turbo correctly. you're gonna kill it. Your turbo is a little far away, but honestly, compared to how far away it can be on a car and be fine, it'll be fine i think. You should probably get an electric fuel pump to help feed the turbo.
You have to add a pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost, a boost reference regulator is needed and adding a bov is needed
The BEST way to handle the oiling for the turbo is to run an oil line from the head feed pipe and the drain back to the crankcase vent on the bottom end. That will provide oil PRESSURE to the turbo's bearings and AVOID a secondary oiling system to fail.
Yep next video I will be doing that! Thanks!
I love or video mane I been watching for a long time 🤠❗️
Thanks for watching!
the turbo needs to be as close to the engine exhaust port as possible, where the exhaust is at it's highest velocity. the outlet of the turbo needs to be piped as the air intake for your fuel system, which should be as close to the engines intake port as possible, you will need a suitable fuel injection system.
how do rear turbo front engine systems work then, the only thing that should really happen with longer tubes is lag, raising the rpm when it finally kicks in. i think the problem is the carb going directly in the turbo, i've seen it work but its cringe. just leave the carb where it's suppose to be and make a tube from there to the cold side of the turbo, plus your restricting boost making it suck through the carb. you really want the tube to be the same basic size as the carb inlet/turbo out. plus you have to compensate for the boost pressure or your carb will not pull fuel when done that way the boost will push the fuel back into the bowl which is the reason for the turbo carb mount, its a cheap carb pressure work around and i myself hate it. you need a carb that runs off a fuel pump so you can have more fuel pressure than boost like with turbo road cars that have carbs, they usually double the pressure of what ever boost is being ran to equal it out. fuel atomization is trash too having it so far away, its just going to all recombine and bead on its way back down to the 2 foot tube lol
ever hear of rear mount
If he makes it a draw through system he will be able to use the carburetor but if he is going to send boost through the carb there has to be a plenum made before the carb or it’s just gonna push fuel back down the jets. I’ll be amazed if he is able to make it work in 5 videos but I hope he has better luck than I had cause it took a while to get it to work right when I done it and I thought It would be no problem,
shit I have no idea how much time I had in it before I got it dialed in good
@@matthewjohnson2495 yea that stock carb wouldn't work sending boost directly into it, there are plenty of carbs that would probly work that use fuel pumps. as long as you can make more fuel pressure than your boost it should work fine. efi conversion would be better tho. it'll work the way he has it eventually. also the carb he's using is designed to be tilted up slightly and its tilted down it's probly messing with the float i's probly closed so its not getting fuel.
He would have to have a intercooler if he was going to try to keep the turbo as close to the cylinder as possible and there is not enough room to do either one on a 400EX. The oil tank sits right in front of the motor so putting it back where he has it is about his only choice and it will allow some of the heat to dissipate before it gets to the turbo as well. A hot charge won’t help the performance or the life of the motor or turbo
Run turbo boost into the carburetor (carburetor stock factory location) run a boost pressure line into the gas tank so it pressurize's the fuel system under turbo boost (fuel pressure is equal to boost pressure keeping the carburetor float open under boost)
That's not the problem. The problem is the turbo makes too much boost for that little motor and is not being regulated. The engine can only take in some much air on the intake stroke then has to wait for 3 more strokes before it can take more air...where do you think the boost is gonna go?? thru the carb and out the overflow lines. There should be no problems with running a stock carb on it. you don't need a special blow thru carb. Any carb would work obviously a bigger carb that flows more cfm would be better but he is still using a stock motor with stock head and stock valves that probably flows like shit. so its all wasted boost. just add a BOV regulated to 5psi max and all the problems go away...then you get to the fun part...Jetting and tuning lol
I used the same Turbo on my 110cc Pitbike project, if you want feel free to check it out. In no way am I hating at all! But I can assure you that that 400EX will require a lot more CFM then what the VZ21 can produce, yes it will make 20PSI but the CFM is not enough to run the 400EX past like 4 o 5000 RPMS (maybe it will though I'm not 100% on that statement), However It will have a ton of Low End spool. If I were you I would also do a Blow through carburetor ditch the draw through idea because it will rev due to the turbo seal cannot handle vacuum and create a "vacuum leak" and start to suck oil which in turn will smoke like crazy, unless you modify the bearing Seal on the intake side.... which is almost impossible to find a seal kit for that turbo to do a Draw through set up. You will need to make sure to put Boost pressure into the Carburetor and a Fuel pump with a 1:1 Regulator. This video was ironic that I came across it though because I have had the plans to build a boosted 400EX and just came across this pretty cool! I'm here to watch and get ideas as well. On mine I'm going to use a TD03 Turbocharger.
Every video leaves me more intrigued in what’s to come next! A turbo 400ex? Yeah why not! Lol. Maybe some time in the future you can have a subscriber come help you with a build…i.e., me? Haha. I have a 97 dr200se enduro I bought for $250 in terrible condition and I got it running for a while, but it jumped timing so I tore it down. The bottom end is great so I don’t have to split the cases, just the top end luckily! I can’t find any markings on the cam gears for timing and I’ve done a lot of research. I think my cam gears are just wore out. But I learn a lot from your videos and I think I can figure it out because of your attention to detail and wealth of knowledge you drop on your videos. Thanks for doing what you do and keep up the great work Joe! Sending love from Tampa, FL!
apparently the timing marks are on the actual camshaft not the camshaft sprocket. I hope this helps!
I like it cuz its something different then your regular videos
I never seen or heard of a set up like that. So I couldn't tell you if it would like that with the way you have set up at the moment. I've always seen it with the boosted air going into the carb or throttle body. The carb atomizes the air / fuel mixture and goes into the intake. Having the air / fuel go thru the turbo and then to engine, in my opinion, would mess with the atomization of the air / fuel mixture and no control of how the engine ran. Also, I wonder how the turbo's bearings would hold up to the gasoline. Just some thoughts. Good luck.
You need the setup closer to the intake manifold this means needing to fabricate some exhaust and intake manifolds
Just my opinion if the oil tank u will use is plastic it might melt since the oil will heat up. I believe it would be better if u use a metal oil tank
Joe this is amazing how do u do it? U r pretty smart this video was amazing and interesting keep up the good work👍
There’s a low volume pump they use on some riding mowers. Not the syphon but a pump.
let’s all just appreciate him filming it in the cold for us to enjoy
Get the Carb back where it was, take fuel tank out and get carb n turbo fitted up close to the engine / exhaust (make a temp tank for now) this will make life so much easier and a can good chance it will work 👍
Awesome I’m a big fan keep up the great work 🤙🏼
Love your videos keep up the good work
Love the content keep going I can't wait to see this thing ripping 🦾
When I saw the title my jaw dropped hahah great video!
Get a electron fuel injected carb for it and a power commander or microsquirt to tune it ull be golden
Yeah that would be alot easier than using a carburetor
I know exactly what your problem is. I ran into the same thing. Your installing a turbo witch is providing multiple times the amount of air and the jets in the carburetor cant keep up with it. Id suggest a dynojet kit or just high power jets in your carburetor
That would be pretty cool with a turbocharger
Love u trying something new been wanting to do this myself
always gunna be a great video when it starts with "I bought a turbo on Amazon'
I've been wanting to do this to my 4:40ex for years good luck send more videos
Definitely run a filter or a velocity stack on that CV carburetor and figure on doubling the fuel at a bare minimum just for the carburetor without an airbox. That's before jetting for the turbo. What I'm saying is, start big.
Looks like a alot omg good luck hopefully u complete this project... Can't wait .!!
Just to help you, put your turbocharger in normal position which is after carb to make it run, change gasket cylinder,buy fuel pressure regulator, you will need also petrol pump more psi, oil pump and canister,manifold-intercooler, and in the carb no matter what must change jets .Good luck
As many have already stated, this is all wrong. The carb needs to go back in stock position and the turbo needs to go very close to the motor exhaust port. You force air into the carb not suck it through the carb. There is so much more that this project needs that you don't have. No offense, but short of a bolt on kit this is just way out of your wheelhouse. Another thing to consider, single cylinder engines totally suck for turbo charging as well as carburetors, fuel injection works much better. Something definitely in your wheelhouse that will make some easy HP is a nitrous kit, go with a wet nitrous setup on a push button switch. No nitrous isn't free HP like a turbo, but it will give the effect your looking for and is much simpler to accomplish. I love the fact that you're trying, but there is just so much more involved in a successful turbo install then you realize. Also keep in mind, boost on a stock compression motor must be kept low, maybe 7-8 psi max, the rod and crank are under tremendous load when force feeding a motor. Like I said a wet nitrous kit on a push button switch is way easier and running up and down the road in front of your parents house it'll make your nuts tingle big time. Nitrous is like a turbo, you will have to be conservative on your spray or it will destroy the motor quickly. A 20hp shot of nitrous would be amazing and so much less involved than trying to turbo a such a bad candidate for a turbo. Do some research on the NOS setup, there is probably a ready to go kit available if you don't want to piece your own together. Keep it up, entertaining as always.
Nice can’t wait to see the outcome 🔥
Better off with liquid steal if you can’t patch those up with welding or even brazing. Silicone will burn off
I’m thinking you should leave the carb in stock location then feed a charge pipe from the turbo to the carb. The carb is too far away to bring fuel into the motor
That’s crazy hopefully you do more stuff like this
Wow that thing is going to be a beast
Look up kms, they built turbo kits for the 400ex in the early 2000s it would be awesome if you could track down one of there original kits!
You can make a carburetor blow through instead of a draw through, would save alot of having to redesign the systems and less chances of a backfire burning up the whole quad cause the charge pipes have fuel blowing through them. Also, you have to keep compression in mind along with psi, don't need to grenade the motor. Also, there's no way for fuel to go through the line enough cause there's no way for that little bottle to vent and allow flow.
Once you get it running get rid of that K@N style filter and go back to a foam/oiled filter. Foam oiled does way better at filtering out small dirt particles. Save those cylinder walls
Can’t wait for the next one 👌
Carb in standard position and charge pipe from turbo straight to carb buddy
I would probably scratch my last comment and just leave the carb in stock location and figure it out from there. It ran with fuel close the motor, stock carb location and figure out configuring that carb, or a larger like 44mm for style carb jetted right. Oh hell ya dude
Turbos on air cooled motors isn't a great match, but this should be interesting!
Cant wait for the 250sx video
Oh I love this channel
that turbo seems like if you clocked it right itd bolt up to the engine in place of the carb(the compressor side flange looks exactly like a carb base youll have to do some testing with this) looks as if you could bolt the compressor flange to the engine carb directly to the compressor intake wheel flange the exhaust pipe bent and gone directly to the turbo then a short pipe out the back to the original muffler
The oil inlets in the turbo has to be up and down unless there is pressure to support the oil demand for the bearings. The carb should be mounted between the outlet( cold side) of the turbo and the intake of the engine. Your fuel is getting disrupted by the impeller ( bad atomization)and not enough vacuum to suck the fuel in.
I've always heard with turbo single cylinders, there needs to be a chamber for compressed air 4.4X the engine displacement located between the turbo and throttle plate to see any benefit
Although this is usually for a blow-through setup. I'm not sure how well that carburetor will work. Grind Hard Plumbing Co had good luck with a VW bus air-cooled engine butterfly carburetor set up as a blow-through because it doesn't have a round slide that jams up under positive pressure. With theirs, they supercharged a 4 stroke dirt bike engine (CRF 450), so maybe something like that would work.
@@bradensmith888 Or use a thing called a blow off valve...its to relieve pressure when the throttle butterfly is closed or in this case the throttle slide is closed. much simpler and easier to implement. you could probably even make one out of an old rad cap.it would be good for about 10-15lbs or whatever the rad cap says. by no means is this the best way to do it but its a crude way of doing it lol
Just saw in a Facebook group, a guy put one of those turbo’s on his Yamaha Warrior.
Watching every add to the end so you can finish this 💪
You don't need to start with 20psi of boost you will be way safer starting lower and working your way up because I assure you if everything like your fuel delivery and fuel octane and ignition timing isn't right it will destroy your engine and also your gonna need to change over to a colder spark plug and that will help with detonation also
If he gets it running pretty good it’s not gonna make any where 20pnds anyhow
@@matthewjohnson2495 that depends on wastegate setting
@@johnbryant5086 I’ve done been down this road with the same 4wheeler and the same turbo so I kinda like seeing how other people do it and it took me a lot of trial and error time spent trying to get as much out of it that I could get and I think he will be lucky if it makes 8 pnds of boost. I’m not saying the turbo is not capable of making 20 pnds I’m saying a 400 cc single cylinder motor is not going to make big numbers.
The turbo is designed for a small 4 cylinder motor and it probably doesn’t make 20 pnds on it
@@matthewjohnson2495 my son and I have two yfz450s that we put turbos on both are fuel injected with vortex ecu and we messed the engine up on the first one due to boost creep and detonation the yfz is a high compression motor and we had no problem making as much boost as the engine would take and our findings was 15 psi will destroy the engine