Joe, what i see for this project is sitting on the back burner for a bit, you researching and designing a more streamline turbo setup for this quad and when nobody expects it you pull it out and just dominate. Never give up, Dont lose sight!!
Loved following along on this project. You win some, you lose some, but definitely learned a great deal. I suspect you'll accidentally run into some info that will tie this puzzle together. Thanks for sharing.
Just got my first bike!!!, So happy, thanks for all the knowledge, been watching for a couple of years and feel like I have a pretty good understanding of the maintenance thanks to you and others, 2 stoked!
I agree 100% too! Honda designed that carb to be a draw through normally asperated. So keep it as a draw through. All you would have to do is re-plumb your turbo setup
He tried that first. Fuel Couldn't get to to the engine. The fuel would condense in the pipe before getting to the engine and it wouldn't start. Watch the video, two videos ago I think.
Did u lower the plug gap and make sure there is no boost leaks. Is there and air fuel gauge on there? Will help tell u if it's to rich or to lean. Careful man playing with fire shall we say can blow up easy during this stage. Good luck man keep it up.
Most fuel pressure regulators use a return line. Excess fuel is sent back to the tank. Check to see if yours requires a return. Fuel comes from the pump to the regulator . The regulator then sends desired pressure to the carb and returns excess pressure back to the tank. I wonder if that kinked off line is intended to be your return. Great job, you’re almost there.
Get an oil restrictor for the turbo. Fuel pressure needs to be zero when not in boost. If you can't get it to zero then set it to say five psi then rejet for the extra fuel. Smaller pilot lower needle exc.. then use the regulator to raise the fuel pressure per pound of boost. Last but not least get a afr gage. You could use it tuning your other quads also.
The oversize main isn't going to make up for the underserving accelerator pump either for off idle. Lag won't go away until accelerator pump is squirting early enough and proper amount. Bet he gets her running soon.
Put it on injection get it running right, then add the turbo, then change the map to suit the turbo, you will always be fighting it with a carb, it should be much simpler than this!
Like others have said, don't give up. It just needs to go on the back burner for a bit so you can regroup. You have a brilliant mind and I'm sure you will figure it out in time.
The carb slide works on vacuum which isn't compatible with your setup, u would try a different carburetor with a manual slide. Don't give up you've come this far. Also it would be a big help for you to learn to read your spark plugs, they can tell you a lot about your air fuel mixture and other thing going on in your engine. Keep up the good work.
you have to have the fuel right for the right amount of boost and i dont think that carb can handle that fuel. CUT THE BOOST TO 4 PSI AND YOULL BE FINE
Your going to have to put the carb on intake of turbo. That carb just won’t work blow through. Get a good gravity short ram into the turbo with carb and try to get turbo as close as possible to head. You got this. This is just my recommendation
It’s definitely almost there don’t give up on it, the boosted bois did a turbo 400cc in a shopping cart maybe you can get some info from that video. I’m not sure if it is hurting you in this situation but maybe a ported head would help out
Boostedbois did a 125 or 200 cc shopping cart definitely not a 400 I watched all the videos from start of the build to the last video they released of it after the efi swap and turbo kit
Put the turbo between the carb and the engine so the turbo pulls through. Many old motorcycle turbo kits work this way. Its also great for packaging. The carb cant pull fuel out of the bowl if there is pressure pushing it back in. That is why carburetors built for boost are of a much different design.
Couple of questions, should you not have run it in before going back to the turbo to let everything settle before adding boost? Also please for the love of God get rid of that flange on that downpipe 🤣
tbh if the cams are already broke in your good just send it lol rings and bearings are good after a few heat cycles and an oil change, plus its better to break them into the full rpm range using them normally after you drain your break in oil. cams are the only thing that need a "break in" for 20 minutes at 2500 rmps so you can harden the lobes. after that you are good to go to just use it and trash on it. look at grandma car barn finds...oh its so nice it's only got 30k original on it... as soon as you open it up it starts smoking worse than cheech and chong because the thing never seen over 2k rpms..they get used to babying them. a redline a day keeps the mechanic away your car/quad anything with a motor will last longer if you rev the shit out of it once in awhile lol.
Definitely a smaller plug gap is needed when you get into boost. Most carbs need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator which raises fuel pressure 1:1 per pound of boost.
Hey man I know it's been a while since you worked on this. I hope you read this and take my suggestions! First thing I would have done double up the Cylinder Base gaskets to lower compression, put a "Stocke Replacment" JE Piston in or a Wiesco (I say "stock Replacment" because it's a forged piston with same compresion ratio), buy a turbine style inline Fuel Pump something simular to a Delph CFD0029... I noticed you have th FPR Return Blocked off, that won't do anything no matter what you do the fuel pressure is necause you always need to bypass fuel during idle and when you're not in boost, so plumb the retuen line back into the Fuel Tank somewhere. Now the FPR "reference" needs to be infront of the Carburetor infront of the Carburetor so that wa the FPR will see Vacuum during idle and lower RPMS and then it will get Bost Pressure during boost. Also you may want a Blow off Valve so that way whe you let off the throttle or wanting tp let it idle it opens and 100% by passes any boost that you do not wan't especially during idle it will be able to use Stock Hetting for idling. Now last you need to figure out a way to retard the ignition iming as the RPMS climb. Basicully you wanna think of it like this By pass all Fuel Pressure and Boost till you're into boost. You will also need to sand a more aggressive Taper on the first 12mm of the Slide Need. You do not wanna go wiith bigger jetting like you would think because now that you're flowing more air through which means you will have a much more powerfull "draft" accross the emulsion tube which which fuel pressure will autmaticully draw more fuel into the engine.
A buddy turbocharged his harley and he was having same troubles but later figured it out and talk about seeing the face on guys faces when a rocket Flys by and they look and see he is right there beside them is funny
Yo, u can't quit out on this bro. After all the time invested so far, and knowledge uve gained, u may as well see it through. Esp for all us viewers that want to try this, u could help pave the way so we can get an idea what we need to do. There's alot of turbo gurus in here that are mentioning stuff thag u haven't tried yet so just consider it bro. That would be sick to be seen through. Ur almost there. Put a lectron carb. No jetting needed
Try running your carburetor vent lines right before the carburetor but after your turbo. What that will do is when your turbo spools it will pressurize the carburetor to how much boost it is making so it is not trying to push the fuel backwards. I believe that is why it doesn't want to go. Also why I think your fuel regulator isn't doing anything is because you have the return line blocked off. How they work is by bleeding off the excess pressure and pushing it out the return line back into the gas tank. Watch this video it explains it well th-cam.com/video/LLdJ-_YIMdY/w-d-xo.html So you wanna Turbo your bike - part 3 BY The Workshop .Good luck and don't give up.
You really should switch out the oil feed system to an external oil tank, oil cooler and like an electric oil pump. Your oil flow is not sufficient enough and not cool enough for the addition of the turbo since you're not running coolant. Also, trying to turbocharge a single cylinder 4-stroke is going to be quite a pain considering the exhaust stroke and the intake stroke. Remember, the intake valve is closed when the exhaust valve is open, so trying to force more air into the single cylinder while it's trying to exhaust isn't going to "make boost" like you want it to. Do NOT expect the whoosh noises you're desperately trying to get. In this application, all you're really doing is making sure the forced induction is there for when the intake valve is open. For what you're trying to achieve, you should put the 400ex back to stock exhaust, intake, and fueling and get yourself at the very least a 2-cylinder, if not a 4-cylinder or you're going to keep blowing motors up trying to get the results you want, instead of getting the results you have.
(You don’t need the fuel pump or regulator) Pressurize the gas tank from the turbo reference line. Boost pressure into the gas tank should equalize the fuel pressure as the turbo spools and open the float push fuel into the engine.
That not correct. In theory it may sound like it would work but the pressure in the fuel tank will not equalize with what's going into into the carb thru a small diameter vaccume line. The engine also pulls vaccume before boost so then itd be pulling thr fuel backwards... The setup he is using right now will work with a few changes. He needs to add a fuel return line from the regulator cause the pressure has no where to go but flooding tbe carb.. He also needs to add a plenum in the pressure side befkfe tbe carb... And tbst turbo is way to small the exhausr inlet is like half an inch...
It wouldn't work b.c. the gas tank has a vent so it would never build pressure. Even if u plug the gas cap, u would then run out of fuel til the tank received new air to reduce the vacuum. Imo he needs a deff carb
It’s gotta be that pump. Last one was not enough this one is too much. Gotta be a happy medium somewhere. Definitely just need to take a brake but you have a great following for the project and hey you’ll be the first to do it to my knowledge!
New carb, a head spacer to lower compression and run positive pressure to the vent on gas tank. Also make sure youre using the right heat range on yor plug for the turbo
I think you should shorten your pipes. Think of a car turbo system. Usually turbo sits right off the exhaust manifold. very close to the engine. Think of air flow. The exhaust has a long way to travel on the 400. Just my opinion. Shorten the airflow. Maybe that will give you better spool.
A carb with a diaphragm slide would probably work better in this scenario. It automatically opens the slide depending on airflow into the carb giving you better fuel ratio control. Also gap the plug tighter 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hey man you get an A for effort you gave it the old college try and it’s all you can do! Sometimes you eat the bear and sometimes the bear eats you! It was a great build you tried and that’s all you can do👍🏼🤩 so keep up the great work though💪🏼
You need to replace the needle and seat with a set up for a fuel pump. The hole in the seat should be smaller because it provides more PSI at the sealing surface of the needle.
You need a plenum for the boost tube so there’s a chance for a gulp of air basically a empty box welded on the tube so it’s not just pulses of air every stroke. Your welcome have a nice day
🔥pretty cool man, def a killer build. Forsure carb issues. Don’t give up Man U will get it. Stock jetting, no fuel pump, that carb is setup for gravity pressure, get it running smooth first, yes will be lean. Then slowly jet up and keep looking at plug till looks creamy. To me fells like will be hard to achieve it all with a carb setup trying to force all that air flow and moving that fuel into cylinder. Maybe work lil better with efi engine? Just a thought 💭
Check to see how well waste gate puck is sealing at exhaust housing, you may need to throw a helper spring on the waste gate actuator to keep it sealed, if tension seems to be lite. Secondly see how much material there is where puck seals up to the exhaust housing, if there’s seems to be a lot, scribe it and port it out to where there’s just enough material that it will seal, I’ve seen that cause turbo surge Numerous times. Good luck...
You could try a Keihin FCR 39mm or 41mm carburetor. The carburetor you are using is a diaphragm carburetor and when I charge the turbo it makes the carburetor plunger go to the maximum and you lose control.
Those carbs are meant to work with vacuum, if you put pressure in there(boost) you will have serious fuel issues. You need a blow-through carb for boost applications. Would of been far simpler to boost an EFI(fuel injected) quad and add a tunable ECU to adjust fuel tables and ignition with software on a laptop... makes things so much easier.
Tighten up your sparkplug gap a lot just so you can barely have a small gap, it sounds like when your are starting to build boost the pressure from the turbo is blowing out the fire on the spark plug, had the same problem with a Chevy 6.0 built motor with twin turbos and that was the problem, it may or may not fix problem but that is what it sounds like, Give it a try and good luck and I hope this helps.
There is a small jet in the top of the carb that pumps fuel into the carb when you hit the throttle might want to try a bigger one of those. It's under the diaphragm in the gold piece on the top of the carb
I think I know the problem, you tried to make a time machine out of a Delorian. LOL. Man I was rooting for you on this one but I was a little skeptical. Please keep making great content.
Turbos only really make boost under load, that's why it free revs no problem. The easiest solution for you may be an auxiliary fuel injector in the intake made to come on when boost comes in. You definitely need way fatter main jet and make sure the fuel bowl isn't running dry as well for the current set up
Brother ive been watching your stuff for a while now and always love and respect all content, anyway if someone is able to achieve this it could absolutely be you my man just may need a bit more patience and im fully confident in your ability to get it done!! That said im kinda curious if you can convert from carburetor to EFI and maybe thats the extra step to making it come to life 🤔. Good luck man and keep on sending it bro, thanks for all you do💯🍻
Good concept good content what u need is a independent control module (computer) fuel injection heavier valve springs? I would look into maybe go-kart fuel injection systems single band wide band 02 sensor? Just kicking around some ideas either way always informative to watch and entertaining
joe id recommend the wastegate spring may be only 5 lb and with turbos u have to knock timing usually unless its self learning but why i say waste gate spring is because itll make over a certain boost then cut the excess out its what its for and itd limit boost
I don't know how your settup is but you need to have your float bowl vent tube plumbed in to the pressure side so that the float bowl stays the same pressure as the boost
I thought this was a terrible idea from the beginning, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I like to keep em' stock and rip em'. But you are getting close. Nice work man.
You did better than me. I wouldn’t even have attempted that project so at least you tried. I don’t get the whole setup. I don’t know why there isn’t just strictly an intake turbo or exhaust turbo. It’s seems like they are conflicting. I could be completely wrong.
The regulator needs to be hooked to your boost gauge with return line back to tank the fuel should be a pound over your boost pressure adjust floats so the floats sit low. When you build boost the boost is pushing back down the main jet and shutting the fuel off with a higher fuel pressure it will continue to push back against the boost put a fuel gauge on the line and adjust. Your regulator should be boost controlled . Most carbs run at about 1-3 pounds mostorcycle cars are 4-7 so boost plus normal pressure is what you should need. Also it may help to run the oil return into the oil fill in the lower case or even the drain plug may take some piping but can be done you won’t need the oil pump anymore good luck I would like to see this thing work out for you.
Try a 04'/05' 450r carb made mine scream with all other stuff i did but thinkin with your setup OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE would be crazy Also Sigma6 makes a complete jet kit for turbo setup an much more Only given sum ideas keep up the Awesome work and vids!✌🤘🖖
Maybe look into getting a mini squirt that way you can adjust the ignition timing when under boost also try regulating boost pressure to 3 pounds that way it can spool lower in the rpm range and hold a steady boost pressure without lagging so long before it comes on
Kyle from boosted boyz turboed a go kart and they had issues but finally got it right .ya might want to watch there go-kart vid I know they moved the turbo to a different spot and got it to work
Yo good job so far witb tbr regulator.. But you need to add a return line from the FPR back to the tank... You also may need a ligbter spring in gbe regulator so you can adjust it down to 2psi...and what happened to the plenum!? You need it otherwise itll break up before boost and when reving it... Your close tho trust me. But look for a cheap k03 turbo on Facebook., in tbr exhaust inlet on that hotside is too smaller than the stock exhausf diameter it will choke it
Don’t give up 2 vintage, doctor motorcycle has done a bunch of turbocharged carbureted motorcycles, check him out and maybe get in contact with him to try and get some help, I really believe that if you got the 400ex turbocharged it would be minty and bring in a lot of views. Just my 2c
might be to much oil pressure for the turbo try suppling the turbo with its own oil supply tank being gravity fed so it takes it in only when it needs it and use a return line to come back into the tank
A blow through carb wont work unless you've also put a pressure line into your fuel tank. Generally the increased pressure will overpower the fuel pressure into the carb. Resulting in a big loss of power and excessively lean conditions... 👍 if you've figured this out and I missed it, please accept my apologies.
Search up 400cc engine fuel injection kit....only way boosting a 1 cylinder engine is going to work i promise you...a 2 cylinder yes its possible while being carbureted but a 1 cylinder no...bc the exhaust pulses are too out of range and not smooth enough to create an even boost flow...i know this bc ive seen many others fail with it as well...soon ad they converted it to the plug n play self learning fuel injection...worked like a charm...and youd love it! I wanna see this 400ex work too...but that's the only way.
Oh.and stick with it. I know how frustrating it can be when nothing seems to be working. I also know what its like to get tunnel vision. Step back,take a break,then switch ur setup to draw thru.
I had a 1988 Ford Thunderbird turbo coupe when I did a tuneup on it I put Cheaper spark plugs in it when it would hit 5 pounds of boost it ran fine anything over that it would cut out you might try something as simple as a more expensive spark plug
Hey man. From what I see and can hear the turbo needs too be closer too the engine or your piping for the turbo needs too be smaller. There is too much space and that engine can not move enough air.. on cars there is 8 cylinders or 6 or 4 that are pushing air for the turbo..on cars you could basically put the turbo anywhere and it will work. I'd say try too get the turbo closer too the engine. Good luck man I love your videos keep up the good work.
Joe, what i see for this project is sitting on the back burner for a bit, you researching and designing a more streamline turbo setup for this quad and when nobody expects it you pull it out and just dominate. Never give up, Dont lose sight!!
That exhaust mount just hanging there in the breeze on the exhaust pipe is driving me nuts dude.
Who cares it not your quad
@@michaelmitchell5909no need to be a dick
@@michaelmitchell5909Just an observation
Flange
4 videos deep same mount hanging 🥴🤣
Loved following along on this project. You win some, you lose some, but definitely learned a great deal. I suspect you'll accidentally run into some info that will tie this puzzle together. Thanks for sharing.
Just got my first bike!!!, So happy, thanks for all the knowledge, been watching for a couple of years and feel like I have a pretty good understanding of the maintenance thanks to you and others, 2 stoked!
The carb is designed to have air drawn threw it not pressurized. Put the carb before the turbo so it can suck the fuel in :)
That’s what I was thinking. They run blow through carbs in carbureted turbo cars.
I agree 100% too! Honda designed that carb to be a draw through normally asperated. So keep it as a draw through. All you would have to do is re-plumb your turbo setup
That is a simple and effective way to quick turbo your small engine, but these turbos don’t have carbon seals, so wouldn’t work.
He tried that first. Fuel
Couldn't get to to the engine. The fuel would condense in the pipe before getting to the engine and it wouldn't start. Watch the video, two videos ago I think.
Air moving across the Venturi is air being carbureted.
Did u lower the plug gap and make sure there is no boost leaks. Is there and air fuel gauge on there? Will help tell u if it's to rich or to lean. Careful man playing with fire shall we say can blow up easy during this stage. Good luck man keep it up.
Most fuel pressure regulators use a return line. Excess fuel is sent back to the tank. Check to see if yours requires a return. Fuel comes from the pump to the regulator . The regulator then sends desired pressure to the carb and returns excess pressure back to the tank. I wonder if that kinked off line is intended to be your return. Great job, you’re almost there.
Brent is right, try that.
What if you go to a fuel injected carburetor so that it would be possibly to tune it?🇺🇦🤙🤘possible a fuel return?
i was going to say the same thing also going with either a lighter waist gate spring or heavier spring
There is I have this regulator there is a return on the back and he should return to the top of his gas tank
Yes! The return is what bleeds off the excess pressure...
Get an oil restrictor for the turbo. Fuel pressure needs to be zero when not in boost. If you can't get it to zero then set it to say five psi then rejet for the extra fuel. Smaller pilot lower needle exc.. then use the regulator to raise the fuel pressure per pound of boost. Last but not least get a afr gage. You could use it tuning your other quads also.
The oversize main isn't going to make up for the underserving accelerator pump either for off idle. Lag won't go away until accelerator pump is squirting early enough and proper amount. Bet he gets her running soon.
Put it on injection get it running right, then add the turbo, then change the map to suit the turbo, you will always be fighting it with a carb, it should be much simpler than this!
about to go down this rabbit hole with a 400 stroker yfm350r. thank you for getting this journey started for all of us
Like others have said, don't give up. It just needs to go on the back burner for a bit so you can regroup. You have a brilliant mind and I'm sure you will figure it out in time.
The carb slide works on vacuum which isn't compatible with your setup, u would try a different carburetor with a manual slide. Don't give up you've come this far. Also it would be a big help for you to learn to read your spark plugs, they can tell you a lot about your air fuel mixture and other thing going on in your engine. Keep up the good work.
36 mm flat slid or a vmMikuni round slide might be easier
Been one of your best series2. Don't give up mate. Lower boost or different carby. Over 50k people wanna see you get it craking
you have to have the fuel right for the right amount of boost and i dont think that carb can handle that fuel. CUT THE BOOST TO 4 PSI AND YOULL BE FINE
Your going to have to put the carb on intake of turbo. That carb just won’t work blow through. Get a good gravity short ram into the turbo with carb and try to get turbo as close as possible to head. You got this. This is just my recommendation
It’s definitely almost there don’t give up on it, the boosted bois did a turbo 400cc in a shopping cart maybe you can get some info from that video. I’m not sure if it is hurting you in this situation but maybe a ported head would help out
They are fuel injected
I thought so
Theirs is a 200cc
Boostedbois did a 125 or 200 cc shopping cart definitely not a 400 I watched all the videos from start of the build to the last video they released of it after the efi swap and turbo kit
That fuel injection kit they got tho is what he needs
Put the turbo between the carb and the engine so the turbo pulls through. Many old motorcycle turbo kits work this way. Its also great for packaging. The carb cant pull fuel out of the bowl if there is pressure pushing it back in. That is why carburetors built for boost are of a much different design.
I wonder if a smart carb or lectron would better react to the sudden increase in fuel demand when the boost hits better than a conventional carb
The problem is not the fuel demand it's the boost pressure running through a carb that is meant to work in vacuum..... This setup will never work.
Couple of questions, should you not have run it in before going back to the turbo to let everything settle before adding boost? Also please for the love of God get rid of that flange on that downpipe 🤣
I was waiting for someone to say that, it was really bugging me as well.😏👍
tbh if the cams are already broke in your good just send it lol rings and bearings are good after a few heat cycles and an oil change, plus its better to break them into the full rpm range using them normally after you drain your break in oil. cams are the only thing that need a "break in" for 20 minutes at 2500 rmps so you can harden the lobes. after that you are good to go to just use it and trash on it. look at grandma car barn finds...oh its so nice it's only got 30k original on it... as soon as you open it up it starts smoking worse than cheech and chong because the thing never seen over 2k rpms..they get used to babying them. a redline a day keeps the mechanic away your car/quad anything with a motor will last longer if you rev the shit out of it once in awhile lol.
He wants it on there because it’s part of the oem pipe but it bothers me too.
At least tac weld it so it's not all over the place. 🤣
That flange looks like a pair of bulldog tin snips might be able to cut it off. I would use that, or a dremel.
Never give up!!! You're SO close!!!
Definitely a smaller plug gap is needed when you get into boost. Most carbs need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator which raises fuel pressure 1:1 per pound of boost.
Hey man I know it's been a while since you worked on this. I hope you read this and take my suggestions! First thing I would have done double up the Cylinder Base gaskets to lower compression, put a "Stocke Replacment" JE Piston in or a Wiesco (I say "stock Replacment" because it's a forged piston with same compresion ratio), buy a turbine style inline Fuel Pump something simular to a Delph CFD0029... I noticed you have th FPR Return Blocked off, that won't do anything no matter what you do the fuel pressure is necause you always need to bypass fuel during idle and when you're not in boost, so plumb the retuen line back into the Fuel Tank somewhere. Now the FPR "reference" needs to be infront of the Carburetor infront of the Carburetor so that wa the FPR will see Vacuum during idle and lower RPMS and then it will get Bost Pressure during boost. Also you may want a Blow off Valve so that way whe you let off the throttle or wanting tp let it idle it opens and 100% by passes any boost that you do not wan't especially during idle it will be able to use Stock Hetting for idling. Now last you need to figure out a way to retard the ignition iming as the RPMS climb. Basicully you wanna think of it like this By pass all Fuel Pressure and Boost till you're into boost. You will also need to sand a more aggressive Taper on the first 12mm of the Slide Need. You do not wanna go wiith bigger jetting like you would think because now that you're flowing more air through which means you will have a much more powerfull "draft" accross the emulsion tube which which fuel pressure will autmaticully draw more fuel into the engine.
Might be easier to just trasfer all these stuff onto a fuel injected quad and try with that
that's exactly what i was thinking ! should be easier i guess
A buddy turbocharged his harley and he was having same troubles but later figured it out and talk about seeing the face on guys faces when a rocket Flys by and they look and see he is right there beside them is funny
Might check out a few grind hard plumbing videos I know they have successfully put turbos on a couple atv and dirtbike engines.
Might need to find a carb setup for boost. Because the factory carb just wasn't meant for what your asking of it.
Don't give up man, it takes time, good video
Yo, u can't quit out on this bro. After all the time invested so far, and knowledge uve gained, u may as well see it through. Esp for all us viewers that want to try this, u could help pave the way so we can get an idea what we need to do. There's alot of turbo gurus in here that are mentioning stuff thag u haven't tried yet so just consider it bro. That would be sick to be seen through. Ur almost there. Put a lectron carb. No jetting needed
There's gotta be a local tuner shop around. Just a smaller version of what they do. I bet they'd be glad to help on a unique project.
Try running your carburetor vent lines right before the carburetor but after your turbo. What that will do is when your turbo spools it will pressurize the carburetor to how much boost it is making so it is not trying to push the fuel backwards. I believe that is why it doesn't want to go. Also why I think your fuel regulator isn't doing anything is because you have the return line blocked off. How they work is by bleeding off the excess pressure and pushing it out the return line back into the gas tank. Watch this video it explains it well th-cam.com/video/LLdJ-_YIMdY/w-d-xo.html So you wanna Turbo your bike - part 3 BY The Workshop .Good luck and don't give up.
Correct 👍
So many variables involved here Joe...
Great effort though and thoroughly enjoyed the videos.
You really should switch out the oil feed system to an external oil tank, oil cooler and like an electric oil pump. Your oil flow is not sufficient enough and not cool enough for the addition of the turbo since you're not running coolant.
Also, trying to turbocharge a single cylinder 4-stroke is going to be quite a pain considering the exhaust stroke and the intake stroke. Remember, the intake valve is closed when the exhaust valve is open, so trying to force more air into the single cylinder while it's trying to exhaust isn't going to "make boost" like you want it to. Do NOT expect the whoosh noises you're desperately trying to get. In this application, all you're really doing is making sure the forced induction is there for when the intake valve is open.
For what you're trying to achieve, you should put the 400ex back to stock exhaust, intake, and fueling and get yourself at the very least a 2-cylinder, if not a 4-cylinder or you're going to keep blowing motors up trying to get the results you want, instead of getting the results you have.
(You don’t need the fuel pump or regulator) Pressurize the gas tank from the turbo reference line. Boost pressure into the gas tank should equalize the fuel pressure as the turbo spools and open the float push fuel into the engine.
That not correct. In theory it may sound like it would work but the pressure in the fuel tank will not equalize with what's going into into the carb thru a small diameter vaccume line. The engine also pulls vaccume before boost so then itd be pulling thr fuel backwards... The setup he is using right now will work with a few changes. He needs to add a fuel return line from the regulator cause the pressure has no where to go but flooding tbe carb.. He also needs to add a plenum in the pressure side befkfe tbe carb... And tbst turbo is way to small the exhausr inlet is like half an inch...
2 carburetors would be a more interesting experiment to watch. One on the vacuum side of turbo. Boost line into the gas cap vent might work Lol
It wouldn't work b.c. the gas tank has a vent so it would never build pressure. Even if u plug the gas cap, u would then run out of fuel til the tank received new air to reduce the vacuum. Imo he needs a deff carb
Boost reference line into the gas cap vent.
@@KrustyQuad is right on this one
It’s gotta be that pump. Last one was not enough this one is too much. Gotta be a happy medium somewhere. Definitely just need to take a brake but you have a great following for the project and hey you’ll be the first to do it to my knowledge!
Don’t give up on it. Need to try a smaller spark plug gap. I bet when it gets to a higher boost it’s blowing the spark out.
don’t give up yet. you got this!!!
New carb, a head spacer to lower compression and run positive pressure to the vent on gas tank. Also make sure youre using the right heat range on yor plug for the turbo
This is mostly above me with the tubo so I bid you Good luck my Wisconsin friend and will smile and nod as you adjust and make changes. Lol
Try using a AFR gauge to help you tune it I've used one in the past and they will help you alot when tuning it
I think you should shorten your pipes. Think of a car turbo system. Usually turbo sits right off the exhaust manifold. very close to the engine. Think of air flow. The exhaust has a long way to travel on the 400. Just my opinion. Shorten the airflow. Maybe that will give you better spool.
A carb with a diaphragm slide would probably work better in this scenario. It automatically opens the slide depending on airflow into the carb giving you better fuel ratio control.
Also gap the plug tighter 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hey man you get an A for effort you gave it the old college try and it’s all you can do! Sometimes you eat the bear and sometimes the bear eats you! It was a great build you tried and that’s all you can do👍🏼🤩 so keep up the great work though💪🏼
Man I was really hoping u had gotten it right .dont give up 💪💪
You need a wide band o2 sensor and data logger to see what the fuel ratio is doing under load
Keeep at it man!!!!! Gotta be a fuel problem. Somehow the fuel has to be maintained.. Hope ya keep it going.
You need to replace the needle and seat with a set up for a fuel pump. The hole in the seat should be smaller because it provides more PSI at the sealing surface of the needle.
When you picked up that package I thought you were going to say we are going to add some twizzlers.
You got this man, dont give up. I'm sure you'll get that thing dialed
You need a plenum for the boost tube so there’s a chance for a gulp of air basically a empty box welded on the tube so it’s not just pulses of air every stroke. Your welcome have a nice day
Look up boosted boys shopping cart go cart,
U need to convert It to fuel injected setup and build a small plenum. Look it up man
I'm sorry about that man, you did really good and you sure made some good videos on it! I'm excited to see what projects you start on next.
This is what everyone needs a turbocharged 400 because every time I get on mine it just isn't fast enough lol
dont give up
Don’t give up brother.
That exhaust flange cut it off😂😂😂
🔥pretty cool man, def a killer build. Forsure carb issues. Don’t give up Man U will get it. Stock jetting, no fuel pump, that carb is setup for gravity pressure, get it running smooth first, yes will be lean. Then slowly jet up and keep looking at plug till looks creamy. To me fells like will be hard to achieve it all with a carb setup trying to force all that air flow and moving that fuel into cylinder. Maybe work lil better with efi engine? Just a thought 💭
I know with my water regulator, you have to turn it in (clockwise) to reduce the pressure. Try that.
Check to see how well waste gate puck is sealing at exhaust housing, you may need to throw a helper spring on the waste gate actuator to keep it sealed, if tension seems to be lite. Secondly see how much material there is where puck seals up to the exhaust housing, if there’s seems to be a lot, scribe it and port it out to where there’s just enough material that it will seal, I’ve seen that cause turbo surge Numerous times.
Good luck...
Just leave things stock always a better outcome
You need a wideband o2 sensor and tune afr for 12.5 to 1 and do plug chops and adjust from there.
Weld a flange onto the base of a big slip on pipe, and bolt it straight to the turbo exhaust housing for simple center exhaust
You could try a Keihin FCR 39mm or 41mm carburetor. The carburetor you are using is a diaphragm carburetor and when I charge the turbo it makes the carburetor plunger go to the maximum and you lose control.
Those carbs are meant to work with vacuum, if you put pressure in there(boost) you will have serious fuel issues. You need a blow-through carb for boost applications. Would of been far simpler to boost an EFI(fuel injected) quad and add a tunable ECU to adjust fuel tables and ignition with software on a laptop... makes things so much easier.
It has a vacuum slide in the carburetor and with you putting booth reference into all the ports on the carburetor it is pushing the slide close
Tighten up your sparkplug gap a lot just so you can barely have a small gap, it sounds like when your are starting to build boost the pressure from the turbo is blowing out the fire on the spark plug, had the same problem with a Chevy 6.0 built motor with twin turbos and that was the problem, it may or may not fix problem but that is what it sounds like, Give it a try and good luck and I hope this helps.
There is a small jet in the top of the carb that pumps fuel into the carb when you hit the throttle might want to try a bigger one of those. It's under the diaphragm in the gold piece on the top of the carb
Or you could get a fuel injection kit like boosted boiz shopping cart
Turbos and carbs together suck to tune you’ll get it there eventually
Eey man. Love your video’s man !!
I think the pressure regulator needs a return to tank so it can bleed pressure
I think I know the problem, you tried to make a time machine out of a Delorian. LOL. Man I was rooting for you on this one but I was a little skeptical. Please keep making great content.
Wow amazing engineering and creativity
Turbos only really make boost under load, that's why it free revs no problem. The easiest solution for you may be an auxiliary fuel injector in the intake made to come on when boost comes in.
You definitely need way fatter main jet and make sure the fuel bowl isn't running dry as well for the current set up
Brother ive been watching your stuff for a while now and always love and respect all content, anyway if someone is able to achieve this it could absolutely be you my man just may need a bit more patience and im fully confident in your ability to get it done!! That said im kinda curious if you can convert from carburetor to EFI and maybe thats the extra step to making it come to life 🤔. Good luck man and keep on sending it bro, thanks for all you do💯🍻
Need to try fuel injection next. No carburetor. Look into it and see about it. We as the audience need to see this done correctly!!!!
you need a boost cut off gauge that's adjustable so can set to like 5 psi so she don't pop again unless you build that motor
Good concept good content what u need is a independent control module (computer) fuel injection heavier valve springs? I would look into maybe go-kart fuel injection systems single band wide band 02 sensor? Just kicking around some ideas either way always informative to watch and entertaining
joe id recommend the wastegate spring may be only 5 lb and with turbos u have to knock timing usually unless its self learning but why i say waste gate spring is because itll make over a certain boost then cut the excess out its what its for and itd limit boost
I don't know how your settup is but you need to have your float bowl vent tube plumbed in to the pressure side so that the float bowl stays the same pressure as the boost
I thought this was a terrible idea from the beginning, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I like to keep em' stock and rip em'. But you are getting close. Nice work man.
You did better than me. I wouldn’t even have attempted that project so at least you tried. I don’t get the whole setup. I don’t know why there isn’t just strictly an intake turbo or exhaust turbo. It’s seems like they are conflicting. I could be completely wrong.
It might want to go, but it just isn't. Lol! Good luck bro!
Don't read you comments and blow it up 10 times...geez it's annoying!!
OK Karen, everyone has heard all yer whining ... am i giving you the attention you desire?
The regulator needs to be hooked to your boost gauge with return line back to tank the fuel should be a pound over your boost pressure adjust floats so the floats sit low. When you build boost the boost is pushing back down the main jet and shutting the fuel off with a higher fuel pressure it will continue to push back against the boost put a fuel gauge on the line and adjust. Your regulator should be boost controlled . Most carbs run at about 1-3 pounds mostorcycle cars are 4-7 so boost plus normal pressure is what you should need. Also it may help to run the oil return into the oil fill in the lower case or even the drain plug may take some piping but can be done you won’t need the oil pump anymore good luck I would like to see this thing work out for you.
Try a 04'/05' 450r carb made mine scream with all other stuff i did but thinkin with your setup OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE would be crazy
Also Sigma6 makes a complete jet kit for turbo setup an much more
Only given sum ideas keep up the Awesome work and vids!✌🤘🖖
Maybe look into getting a mini squirt that way you can adjust the ignition timing when under boost also try regulating boost pressure to 3 pounds that way it can spool lower in the rpm range and hold a steady boost pressure without lagging so long before it comes on
Kyle from boosted boyz turboed a go kart and they had issues but finally got it right .ya might want to watch there go-kart vid I know they moved the turbo to a different spot and got it to work
this dude is persistent
Yo good job so far witb tbr regulator.. But you need to add a return line from the FPR back to the tank... You also may need a ligbter spring in gbe regulator so you can adjust it down to 2psi...and what happened to the plenum!? You need it otherwise itll break up before boost and when reving it... Your close tho trust me. But look for a cheap k03 turbo on Facebook., in tbr exhaust inlet on that hotside is too smaller than the stock exhausf diameter it will choke it
Thumbs up so hes sees this
Ill have the video of it working on a yfz for you next week
Don’t give up 2 vintage, doctor motorcycle has done a bunch of turbocharged carbureted motorcycles, check him out and maybe get in contact with him to try and get some help, I really believe that if you got the 400ex turbocharged it would be minty and bring in a lot of views. Just my 2c
might be to much oil pressure for the turbo try suppling the turbo with its own oil supply tank being gravity fed so it takes it in only when it needs it and use a return line to come back into the tank
Sounds like it’s blowing the spark out under boost. Should try a anti fouling adapter to help shield the spark.
A blow through carb wont work unless you've also put a pressure line into your fuel tank. Generally the increased pressure will overpower the fuel pressure into the carb. Resulting in a big loss of power and excessively lean conditions... 👍 if you've figured this out and I missed it, please accept my apologies.
100% blowing out the spark. Get a spark plug for boosted applications. Had this happen on my supercharged truck when I built it
Search up 400cc engine fuel injection kit....only way boosting a 1 cylinder engine is going to work i promise you...a 2 cylinder yes its possible while being carbureted but a 1 cylinder no...bc the exhaust pulses are too out of range and not smooth enough to create an even boost flow...i know this bc ive seen many others fail with it as well...soon ad they converted it to the plug n play self learning fuel injection...worked like a charm...and youd love it! I wanna see this 400ex work too...but that's the only way.
Sheesh, installed a sewer line on a atv as an intake manifold 👏 creative
Needs a pull through serup and it'll be a beast!!
Oh.and stick with it. I know how frustrating it can be when nothing seems to be working. I also know what its like to get tunnel vision. Step back,take a break,then switch ur setup to draw thru.
Possibly check the spark plug gap and possibly change the heat range of the spark plug
I had a 1988 Ford Thunderbird turbo coupe when I did a tuneup on it I put Cheaper spark plugs in it when it would hit 5 pounds of boost it ran fine anything over that it would cut out you might try something as simple as a more expensive spark plug
The backfiring on decel is lean. Go up to a 180 or 185 jet and if possible install an efi kit
Hey man. From what I see and can hear the turbo needs too be closer too the engine or your piping for the turbo needs too be smaller. There is too much space and that engine can not move enough air.. on cars there is 8 cylinders or 6 or 4 that are pushing air for the turbo..on cars you could basically put the turbo anywhere and it will work. I'd say try too get the turbo closer too the engine. Good luck man I love your videos keep up the good work.