in project/product management this dichotomy is called leading indicators vs lagging indicators. You should aim at some big goal that can be measured by a lagging indicator (grade) in a long perspective. They are called lagging because you only can measure the progress in retrospect. But on a daily basis you track the progress by looking at leading indicators (max hangs, #of pullup etc) :) nice series! i love it
Good video! Making your climbing and strength progress measurable is a topic that I've been obsessing about for a very long time. There is a small body of scientific literature with some standardized tests, where there is data about the correlation with climbing ability. I think they are good not only to track your progress, but also to analyze weaknesses, as you can compare your test results with those of other people climbing the same grade. I have started writing a document with the results of the most important studies. If you're interested, I can send you a copy.
I find it hard to find what grade I can actually climb, seeing as the 2 local gyms have such different grading - there's usually impossible V4s at one gym and easy V7s at the other. Once the 'harder' gym set a V5 on a roof section that none of the regulars could climb, even though one of them climbed an 8b+ climb, on a similar overhang, using exactly the same holds.
if you really want to know what grade you can climb, find a gym with a moonboard. the popular moonboard problems are probably the most accuratly graded problems in the world.
I use standard tests, so to speak, it's been a long time, but I actually have trouble finding good tests that translate well into climbing (one of them is max time on hangboard 2cm, pretty obvious) but others I don't believe translate well, like max broad jump, max push ups, etc..I'm curious to see what you'll come up with!
If you want a standardized objective test of climbing strength I don't think there is a better system out there than Tom Randall's lattice training system.
in project/product management this dichotomy is called leading indicators vs lagging indicators. You should aim at some big goal that can be measured by a lagging indicator (grade) in a long perspective. They are called lagging because you only can measure the progress in retrospect. But on a daily basis you track the progress by looking at leading indicators (max hangs, #of pullup etc) :) nice series! i love it
Love the videos mate, makes so much sense ❤️
Interessting video as always. Thanks mani for all the great stuff which you uploaded ☺
Good video! Making your climbing and strength progress measurable is a topic that I've been obsessing about for a very long time. There is a small body of scientific literature with some standardized tests, where there is data about the correlation with climbing ability. I think they are good not only to track your progress, but also to analyze weaknesses, as you can compare your test results with those of other people climbing the same grade. I have started writing a document with the results of the most important studies. If you're interested, I can send you a copy.
Great video many thanks,
I find it hard to find what grade I can actually climb, seeing as the 2 local gyms have such different grading - there's usually impossible V4s at one gym and easy V7s at the other. Once the 'harder' gym set a V5 on a roof section that none of the regulars could climb, even though one of them climbed an 8b+ climb, on a similar overhang, using exactly the same holds.
if you really want to know what grade you can climb, find a gym with a moonboard.
the popular moonboard problems are probably the most accuratly graded problems in the world.
Go outdoors, climb 10 Routes of a grade -> got it
I use standard tests, so to speak, it's been a long time, but I actually have trouble finding good tests that translate well into climbing (one of them is max time on hangboard 2cm, pretty obvious) but others I don't believe translate well, like max broad jump, max push ups, etc..I'm curious to see what you'll come up with!
i think you can track your progress with latice training
Don't forget about trad climbing!
If you want a standardized objective test of climbing strength I don't think there is a better system out there than Tom Randall's lattice training system.
The moonboard training system is also a very good one.