btw. just realized that with "unobvious weaknesses" I meant not obvious to the climber, but actually very obvious to the observer. So if you can, get a good observer and ask them on what you can improve on, or film yourself! Helps a lot!
body tension is important even in slabs! in my experience after a few months of sick leave (no climbing for 6+ months), lacking body tension was more limiting than finger strength or other upper body related strength. keep it up with the great contents Mani!
About falling when lead climbing: assuming you have only the necessary amount of slack when clipping, you would fall the same distance no matter which height you clip on. But there's a difference on how low you end up: if you clip above your head, you would end up lower than when clipping at waist level. So waist level may be safer when the latest clip is still close to the ground, but when high enough, it doesn't really matter. The primary tip on the lead course was however not to fall at all when clipping the 4th or lower quick draw on an inside wall :)
Interesting point about the power vs. strength climbers. It's interesting, because sticking to what we are good at can be a trap, sometimes. I love big moves, and until after watching this video, I always wondered why I kept my head down and slowly walked past those crimpy overhang boulders, lol.
Despite this video being about plateau breaking, it can also be greatly applied to beginner climbers and their progression. The factors you mention are all about, at least in my opinion, climbing basics. I see a lot of people don't mind about the basics after they reach a certain flexibility, technique or body tension etc. After that it is often all about strength. I think it is a good practice to come back to the basic factors and climbing specific skills after you gained in strength/power.In the end, you need to realize that new power in a productive manner.
Congrats on 50k!! Your climbing knowledge is very evolved, as has been showcased from wayback in your videos (im an old sub). Keep spreading your good knowledge like the "true weaknesses, that prevent from improving", that one especially speed and body tension factors really hits home and is very true for id say 90% of climbers. Not this "oh no its because my shoes are bad, my crimping strength is bad" bs. Its important, imo, to spread good climbing knowledge now more than ever to an ever increasingly nooby climbing community ( nooby why? --> through the simple fact that climbing is growing exponentially): KEEP DOING THIS MANI !!
Mani, I’m new To climbing, only about 3 weeks in. But in the last few days I have been climbing harder routes and I’m definitely feeling the stress on my joints. I was hoping you would put out some content on how to heal my joints faster whether it be ice, or special substances (oils, lotions, etc) or special routines. The soreness is mostly in my knuckles and toes joints. Thanks mani!!
Since you've only been climbing for a few weeks, rest is going to be your best friend and it's going to help you come back so much stronger. I know it can be tempting to keep climbing day after day, but if your body is trying to tell you to slow down, you need to listen to it. When I first started, and even somewhat now, I experienced a lot of tendonitis in my shoulder joints and elbows. The only fix was taking long rests, 5-7 days off of climbing, but when I came back, I was able to climb much harder. Because it's your fingers that are hurting and because they're under the most stress when climbing, it's important to rest them to avoid injury. Stretching, ice, and any anti-inflammation ointments (arnica, comfrey oil, etc) should help, but rest is going to be the number one fix. Maybe it's just my limited knowledge, but I've never heard of anyone's toes hurting like that? Maybe your shoes are too tight?
Jace Rosenthal I have a very physically taxing second job (5-6 miles a day with 40 lbs in hand), and my primary job is spent entirely on my feet as well. I believe it is my second job that is making my feet sore just as I am spending so much time on them? Also, I’m unaware of how to stretch my toes other than to go on my toes during a calf stretch. Most of the soreness is from the plantar portion of my foot. My feet and hands also crack a lot since I’ve started climbing, is this something that is “good” to relieve stress? Thank you so much for the help Jace!
No problem! And ouch, yeah, no wonder your feet are sore! There's lots of resources for foot/toe stretches (ballet dancers do them a lot), I would search through google/youtube and find a stretching routine that works for you. Same goes for your hands, wrists, and forearms! A good foot/hand soak will also help your muscles relax, and you could always treat yourself to a cheap foot massage. As for cracking, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Studies that have claimed cracking decreases grip strength or that it leads to arthritis have been debunked. Cracking your knuckles actually releases gases in between the joints, allowing synovial fluid, which helps lubricate joints, to fill the area. You still want to be careful about overworking your tendons/ligaments, though, so try not to over crack your fingers. If there are other joints that are cracking (neck, shoulders, etc), be extra careful as well. If you feel like joints are cracking more because they are out of alignments, seek chiropractic help. My wrists are double jointed, and I get them adjusted by my chiropractor now as climbing puts extra stress on them.
Very interesting topic. Thank you Mani. Fear of falling is the biggest thing for me at the moment. I just can't bring myself to climb untill I fall during a move and that's costing me like 4-5 moves every route I'd think. That and I flag too little. But working on it. :) Also: Great point with the eary clipping.
Hi Mani, Nice video as always! Some people I climb with are telling me about yoga as a way to improve flexibility, I think it would also be good for body strength. Other people are trying to convince me to go for the slackline in order to improve equilibrium. Which activity, if any, do you think would bring more benefits for a climber. Thanks for sharing you thoughts!
Always values your advice as the best, to look at climbing from a step back is interesting👍 much respect, great knowledge on breaking mental or physical walls down🤛
Awesome video, man! I recently figured out that I am definitely in the lacking body tension camp. I can do pull ups as well as most guys climbing one number grade (!) more than me, but I tend to loose my feet much faster. They might also have better technique or more finger strength, but I think that improving core strength would help my climbing a lot! Congratulations to 50k subscribers by the way! Well done and definitely deserved!
Thanks Mani interesting as always but I think you missed one very obvious weak link. Technique. Climbing is skill based sport and with the emphasis on strength now I think technique gets forgotten. Be interested in what you think. Congrats on 50K
All of those (besides the flexibility maybe) definitely are weaknesses of mine^^ I already knew that, but it's nice to hear your opinion on those! I still need to figure out how exactly I want to tackle those...
Hey Mani good video ! Don't you think breath management is one of those hidden flaws that many people have as well ? Do you think it has a lower impact on overall performance or that it starts being a problem only from the upper grades of climbing ?
Big Massive Thanks for 50000 Subscribers! That's insane, thanks for your support, dedicated episode coming soon!
Also: FIRST!
holy moly dude. it feels like you had 5k subs just yesterday
Awesome! Keep it coming.
Well deserved. Thanks for all the effort you put into your videos !
btw. just realized that with "unobvious weaknesses" I meant not obvious to the climber, but actually very obvious to the observer. So if you can, get a good observer and ask them on what you can improve on, or film yourself! Helps a lot!
Awesome. Your way of teaching is very straight forward and super clear!!
Not even a single camera cut needed! Epic
“Only as strong as the weakest LINK in the chain”! Love the channel Mani!! If I come to Austria I would be fucking honored to climb with you!
body tension is important even in slabs! in my experience after a few months of sick leave (no climbing for 6+ months), lacking body tension was more limiting than finger strength or other upper body related strength. keep it up with the great contents Mani!
About falling when lead climbing: assuming you have only the necessary amount of slack when clipping, you would fall the same distance no matter which height you clip on. But there's a difference on how low you end up: if you clip above your head, you would end up lower than when clipping at waist level. So waist level may be safer when the latest clip is still close to the ground, but when high enough, it doesn't really matter. The primary tip on the lead course was however not to fall at all when clipping the 4th or lower quick draw on an inside wall :)
Interesting point about the power vs. strength climbers. It's interesting, because sticking to what we are good at can be a trap, sometimes. I love big moves, and until after watching this video, I always wondered why I kept my head down and slowly walked past those crimpy overhang boulders, lol.
Despite this video being about plateau breaking, it can also be greatly applied to beginner climbers and their progression.
The factors you mention are all about, at least in my opinion, climbing basics. I see a lot of people don't mind about the basics after they reach a certain flexibility, technique or body tension etc. After that it is often all about strength. I think it is a good practice to come back to the basic factors and climbing specific skills after you gained in strength/power.In the end, you need to realize that new power in a productive manner.
Mani - I could listen to you all day. Sending thanks and good vibes from Cheddar Gorge, UK
Congrats on 50k!! Your climbing knowledge is very evolved, as has been showcased from wayback in your videos (im an old sub). Keep spreading your good knowledge like the "true weaknesses, that prevent from improving", that one especially speed and body tension factors really hits home and is very true for id say 90% of climbers. Not this "oh no its because my shoes are bad, my crimping strength is bad" bs. Its important, imo, to spread good climbing knowledge now more than ever to an ever increasingly nooby climbing community ( nooby why? --> through the simple fact that climbing is growing exponentially): KEEP DOING THIS MANI !!
Mani, your words are gold. Thank you for your great work!
Great Video, Mani, keeps me really motivated for my climbing future!
Good luck with your Boulderproblem!
Another great video Mani, thanks 👍🏼
Mani, I’m new To climbing, only about 3 weeks in. But in the last few days I have been climbing harder routes and I’m definitely feeling the stress on my joints. I was hoping you would put out some content on how to heal my joints faster whether it be ice, or special substances (oils, lotions, etc) or special routines. The soreness is mostly in my knuckles and toes joints. Thanks mani!!
Since you've only been climbing for a few weeks, rest is going to be your best friend and it's going to help you come back so much stronger. I know it can be tempting to keep climbing day after day, but if your body is trying to tell you to slow down, you need to listen to it. When I first started, and even somewhat now, I experienced a lot of tendonitis in my shoulder joints and elbows. The only fix was taking long rests, 5-7 days off of climbing, but when I came back, I was able to climb much harder.
Because it's your fingers that are hurting and because they're under the most stress when climbing, it's important to rest them to avoid injury. Stretching, ice, and any anti-inflammation ointments (arnica, comfrey oil, etc) should help, but rest is going to be the number one fix.
Maybe it's just my limited knowledge, but I've never heard of anyone's toes hurting like that? Maybe your shoes are too tight?
Jace Rosenthal I have a very physically taxing second job (5-6 miles a day with 40 lbs in hand), and my primary job is spent entirely on my feet as well. I believe it is my second job that is making my feet sore just as I am spending so much time on them? Also, I’m unaware of how to stretch my toes other than to go on my toes during a calf stretch. Most of the soreness is from the plantar portion of my foot. My feet and hands also crack a lot since I’ve started climbing, is this something that is “good” to relieve stress? Thank you so much for the help Jace!
No problem! And ouch, yeah, no wonder your feet are sore! There's lots of resources for foot/toe stretches (ballet dancers do them a lot), I would search through google/youtube and find a stretching routine that works for you. Same goes for your hands, wrists, and forearms! A good foot/hand soak will also help your muscles relax, and you could always treat yourself to a cheap foot massage.
As for cracking, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Studies that have claimed cracking decreases grip strength or that it leads to arthritis have been debunked. Cracking your knuckles actually releases gases in between the joints, allowing synovial fluid, which helps lubricate joints, to fill the area. You still want to be careful about overworking your tendons/ligaments, though, so try not to over crack your fingers. If there are other joints that are cracking (neck, shoulders, etc), be extra careful as well. If you feel like joints are cracking more because they are out of alignments, seek chiropractic help. My wrists are double jointed, and I get them adjusted by my chiropractor now as climbing puts extra stress on them.
Continue to stay true mani your the man
Very interesting topic. Thank you Mani. Fear of falling is the biggest thing for me at the moment. I just can't bring myself to climb untill I fall during a move and that's costing me like 4-5 moves every route I'd think. That and I flag too little. But working on it. :) Also: Great point with the eary clipping.
Chris fear of falling costs you about one grade I would say so try to work on that e.g. by doing some planned falls where you're scared at
I can't tell what it is about this video, but you seem very calm and collected in this one! Good info!
Flexibility also gives you more options. Very overlooked skill.
Hi Mani,
Nice video as always! Some people I climb with are telling me about yoga as a way to improve flexibility, I think it would also be good for body strength. Other people are trying to convince me to go for the slackline in order to improve equilibrium. Which activity, if any, do you think would bring more benefits for a climber. Thanks for sharing you thoughts!
Always values your advice as the best, to look at climbing from a step back is interesting👍 much respect, great knowledge on breaking mental or physical walls down🤛
congrats on the 50k!!
Awesome video, man! I recently figured out that I am definitely in the lacking body tension camp. I can do pull ups as well as most guys climbing one number grade (!) more than me, but I tend to loose my feet much faster. They might also have better technique or more finger strength, but I think that improving core strength would help my climbing a lot!
Congratulations to 50k subscribers by the way! Well done and definitely deserved!
Awesome video once again, will work on speed and tension!
Looking fresh with that new haircut 👌
Thanks maní, i always take your tips like a sensei jaja
Great one. Thanks
Thanks Mani interesting as always but I think you missed one very obvious weak link. Technique. Climbing is skill based sport and with the emphasis on strength now I think technique gets forgotten. Be interested in what you think. Congrats on 50K
All of those (besides the flexibility maybe) definitely are weaknesses of mine^^
I already knew that, but it's nice to hear your opinion on those! I still need to figure out how exactly I want to tackle those...
Hey Mani good video ! Don't you think breath management is one of those hidden flaws that many people have as well ? Do you think it has a lower impact on overall performance or that it starts being a problem only from the upper grades of climbing ?
timely for this pandemic break :D
I'm still working on my obvious weaknesses.
"That's one thumb bro" 😂
Can you make a video on how you'd train to get back into climbing after a long break? Love the videos! Live long vegan rock climbing 😁
Congratz to the haircut and the 50k.
Damm Mani looking very good and healthy. Your skin looks awesome! Anything to do with diet improvements?
Number 5: TRY HARD! Do not, I repeat, do not(!) let go until gravity forces you ;) This one is haaaard though
My friend, you can look into the future...
Thought about going to Zillertal again ?
Yeah great spot, not sure when though :)
link
What happend to your hair Mani?? Save some money and just get a shaver?? Holy crap
Great video ;)!
Nice haircut
I need french subtitle !!! 😢
173 is short
What abt my 163 dwarf self :'(
shoes. all the difference.
Second
plz try making the vids shorter. not so fun to watch. thx!!