I love the very detailed vacuum casting, theres a lot of people out there sandcasting aluminum cans but youre one of the only ones that does vacuum casting for hobbists rather than dedicated jewelers. Great video!
@@PaulsGarage That's the best part, while all the other TH-camrs were stuck on aluminum since they can just use cans, you were super smart to switch to zamak. Also one of the reasons why no one makes vacuum casting, they use aluminum so it always fails
Thank you! I've done it so much I'm just comfortable with it now. My one and only tip is to over-emote. The camera takes away 20% of your enthusiasm so really ham it up to compensate 👍
The vegetable glycerin is a plasticizing agent with photopolymer (and most plastics/polymers). I find it a little unusual that they want you to cure in it, but wax-based resins are a bit unusual themselves. I haven't used them in quite the while, though you might be overcuring your resin if you find it terribly brittle. I make a graphene-based photopolymer additive to combat embrittlement with water-washables, though it works great with all photopolymers I've tested to date. If you're interested in a can and have a PO Box, say the word!
I didn't know that about vegetable glycerin, very interesting! That affitive sounds pretty interesting, do you know if it can burn out cleanly? Anything that leaves ashes causes problems with this process, but graphine is carbon, right?
@@PaulsGarage While it was intended to remain inside a more standard UV resin during print and curing, there's nothing in it that would hinder combustion. I have instructions I send out with the kits that some testing is necessary with respect to percentages that you can successfully run for different formulas/styles, but it's normally best to add 5ml at a time to a liter of resin, with the high end being 10-15ml in really thick, aggressive engineering resin formulas. The stuff is concentrated and I couldn't see the even smaller ratio per print being a problem. I can certainly do some testing with regards to flammability, but you're not likely going to end up getting the graphene part itself to a higher temperature than it took to create it (formation begins in my process at ~1800*C in stage 1 and only goes up from there). As I have to be able to ship it, I've reformulated it a few times to get away from substances that would qualify as hazmat, but I can recommend thinning agents you can use on your end if you'd like to enhance burnout also that won't affect its printability. Yes, the largest part of it is, how to say, atomically separated carbon. 😉
That skull turned out really nice! I struggle with getting shiny stuff to play nice with cameras, antique razors I restore, so not really needing the level of detail you're after. But, I found I get much better results using a sheet of a neutral gray synthetic suede for furniture upholstery, (upholsering? upholserying? upholsteryficationizing... sure, I'll go with that) as a backdrop. Cheap stuff from the Amazon works fine. Seems to help balance the exposure. Takes some fiddling with camera setting to dial things in just right, but I think I got worthwhile results with the little effort. Anyway, great video, as always!
5:18 partially cured resin due to overhangs having resin curing beyond the current layer. somewhat known issue with this resin. you can also see this on your test prints such as the Ameralabs town, 1. the O with X inside, the top has a large amount of resin stuck to it under the overhang, 2. your vertical gaps under the horizontal gaps are closed near the back 3. the checkerboard, which has "ramps" from the lower back edge to the top front edge.
Man that looks amazing, every time I see details like this my wallets starts to shake a bit. Don't have the room though. :( Great to see detailed videos like this!
Thank you! The wallet is at great risk all the time around here, it seems like there is always "just one more" tool to take everything to the next level. The problem is the levels never stop coming 🤣
Really professional results. Silver melting point is about the same as brass, very clean and very fluid. Make your wife and yourself some knock out jewelry and stuff.
Hi Paul! Have you ever thought about using a flexible filament like one of the very soft TPU’s for casting? I currently don’t have the capabilities to print TPU otherwise I would try it. I am curious if you could design parts that are deformable and actually pull out of the dried plaster instead of melting out. This obviously would not be possible with something that has many holes in it like the Dinosaur skull, but may work for larger, more solid shapes like the Lathe base you just made?
Im going to be casting 1:6 scale tank track links and have questions about how i should place the risers to avoid shrinking and voids. Open to suggestions.
@@PaulsGarageI really truly aspire to make something this cool! Got a sand casting kit and some scrap silver, made a ring on a lathe and cast it, it’s not perfect yet, need to re melt but it’s a start. I’m building a large furnace too for copper, aluminium, brass, bronze… I’ve got a keg and cut it in half, made some large stainless rings and welded them on. I need to buy materials now to get it running, when the budget allows 😂 I’m so excited by it all though
That’s some great information. I’ll have to try out that other kind of investment. I have been dealing with a lot of cracking in the investment on my last few resin projects. I chose the blue resin to use just to avoid the glycerin step. I don’t believe the true blue requires the glycerin but I hear it’s harder to print with.
If it cracks with blue it will probably crack with purple. Blue is supposedly designed for easier burnout. I have a bottle of blue here. I'll have to open it up and see how it works
Hmm...even the gang at Belmont Metals haven't recommended using bismuth to combat shrink, but going from 1.2% to almost none would be mighty nice. How many grams would need to be added per pound or kilogram of the total melt?
I would worry about changing the properties of the metal too much. A tiny bit of the wrong metal can take a solid alloy and make it super brittle, for example. Worth a test, though. It might be great
@@PaulsGarage While you're at it, you should also look into metal matrix composites. It'd be interesting to find out if there are any that can be made at home.
I've had nothing but problems adding sprues to my resins, and recently I've had lots of failed prints. I'd look into a new printer, but I need to get a leather sewing machine, and that is this quarter's budget.
You aren't the first person to mention difficulty spruing up resin prints. I haven't had an issue at all, so i have no idea what's going on. It seems like a common problem, though.
Very good video Paul, you've got the hang of the process perfectly! I like 50/50 blue/purple as it's a bit less brittle and prints nicer detail, still glycerine cure it tho lol I use regular investment, mixed at 36:100 works fine for Siraya cast resin without excessive cracking, and only need 730C for a few hours at peak. The shitty first gen resins, and a bunch of other current gen ones are pretty bad too tho and need the expansion friendly resin type ones lol Resinworks, Siraya and Bluecast are ones I reccomend, with preference for SIraya due to cost xD Hopefully you're not doing full 17 hour burnouts, as it's totally not needed. I've ran 6-7 hour burnout cycles with this stuff very frequently :) You may want to consider making lathe tooling with pretty artwork embedded into it, if you use Zbrushes Bas Relief command (or other 3d tool) you can project 3d models onto the surface of other objects, kinda like how a coin gets that engaved look, can apply stuff to any other tools you have to be cast and make them super pretty and personalised with very minimal effort ;)
Thank you! I use blender and I intend to add decorative surfaces to parts, but that will mostly be sand cast which limits a little of what I can do there. What burnout schedule are you using?
I've got a welder in my living room right now, it's hiding behind the couch, but it is still in my living room. I don't think my wife has looked back there recently, that's why I've gotten away with it. ;-)
Can you make a item for me and use it for a video to share I need a copy of one that is broken and replace it with a printed copy I can pay whatever you want to do this
@@PaulsGarage ultrasonic waves create fine vapor that can combust rather impressively if it consists of any kind of flammable fluid. There's a way to do it safely (look for a NASA paper on ultrasonic cleaning with parts bagged in alcohol from way back in 60ies) but I would not want to try it any other way. Best case you get the scare of your life when it spontaneously goes pop. Worst case are severe burns, concussion and hearing damage.
@@PaulsGarage it vaporizes a not insignificant amount so they say dont use anything flammable. but just some decent ventilation is enough to deal with that. i extract lions mane in 95% ethanol in an ultrasonic and have never had a problem.
This ultrasonic looks like it could be vapor tight as the lid seems to have a seal. The big advantage to using a separate container with the alcohol / part that you then put in the Ultrasonic full of water is that you need less alcohol that way.
Equipment used:
Uniformation Printer kit: uniformation3d.com/products/gktwo-3d-printer-curing-station-ultrasonic-resin-cleaner?sca_ref=4345752.v3kdNjnqDi
Vacuum Casting machine: s.vevor.com/bfQIQf
Metal Melting Furnace: s.vevor.com/bfQoPf
Sirayatech Cast Purple Resin: amzn.to/3QOiN0M
Presige Optima Plaster: amzn.to/3sCre7l
10mm Wax Sprues 1lb: amzn.to/3MS6Cid
1mm Wax straws: amzn.to/49Wb3CL
2.5mm Wax straws: amzn.to/46loYin
Wax Pen: amzn.to/3sCrmUn
Want to learn sand casting using your 3D printer? I can teach you!: paulsmakeracademy.mykajabi.com/joinus
I love the very detailed vacuum casting, theres a lot of people out there sandcasting aluminum cans but youre one of the only ones that does vacuum casting for hobbists rather than dedicated jewelers. Great video!
Thanks! I've done my share of cans but never got good results, the alloy is all wrong. Thanks for watching and there's more to come!
@@PaulsGarage That's the best part, while all the other TH-camrs were stuck on aluminum since they can just use cans, you were super smart to switch to zamak.
Also one of the reasons why no one makes vacuum casting, they use aluminum so it always fails
Amazing. Still the best casting channel on TH-cam.
Thank you! That's high praise!
@@PaulsGarage Well-earned, I assure you!
You are really good at speaking on camera. I am thoroughly impressed and I will probably take inspiration from you with my videos.
Thank you! I've done it so much I'm just comfortable with it now. My one and only tip is to over-emote. The camera takes away 20% of your enthusiasm so really ham it up to compensate 👍
@@PaulsGarage Thanks! Great advice!
The vegetable glycerin is a plasticizing agent with photopolymer (and most plastics/polymers). I find it a little unusual that they want you to cure in it, but wax-based resins are a bit unusual themselves. I haven't used them in quite the while, though you might be overcuring your resin if you find it terribly brittle. I make a graphene-based photopolymer additive to combat embrittlement with water-washables, though it works great with all photopolymers I've tested to date. If you're interested in a can and have a PO Box, say the word!
I didn't know that about vegetable glycerin, very interesting! That affitive sounds pretty interesting, do you know if it can burn out cleanly? Anything that leaves ashes causes problems with this process, but graphine is carbon, right?
@@PaulsGarage While it was intended to remain inside a more standard UV resin during print and curing, there's nothing in it that would hinder combustion. I have instructions I send out with the kits that some testing is necessary with respect to percentages that you can successfully run for different formulas/styles, but it's normally best to add 5ml at a time to a liter of resin, with the high end being 10-15ml in really thick, aggressive engineering resin formulas. The stuff is concentrated and I couldn't see the even smaller ratio per print being a problem. I can certainly do some testing with regards to flammability, but you're not likely going to end up getting the graphene part itself to a higher temperature than it took to create it (formation begins in my process at ~1800*C in stage 1 and only goes up from there).
As I have to be able to ship it, I've reformulated it a few times to get away from substances that would qualify as hazmat, but I can recommend thinning agents you can use on your end if you'd like to enhance burnout also that won't affect its printability.
Yes, the largest part of it is, how to say, atomically separated carbon. 😉
Great video! I always need the details. "Need the info." - Dr. Evil - What an awesome finished product! Nice work!
That skull turned out really nice! I struggle with getting shiny stuff to play nice with cameras, antique razors I restore, so not really needing the level of detail you're after. But, I found I get much better results using a sheet of a neutral gray synthetic suede for furniture upholstery, (upholsering? upholserying? upholsteryficationizing... sure, I'll go with that) as a backdrop. Cheap stuff from the Amazon works fine. Seems to help balance the exposure. Takes some fiddling with camera setting to dial things in just right, but I think I got worthwhile results with the little effort. Anyway, great video, as always!
Cool IS a purpose! Just found your channel and enjoy your creation process.
I'm annoyed. I'm annoyed that TH-cam hasn't been showing me your videos for well over a year. I forgot how good (and funny) your videos are.
5:18 partially cured resin due to overhangs having resin curing beyond the current layer. somewhat known issue with this resin. you can also see this on your test prints such as the Ameralabs town, 1. the O with X inside, the top has a large amount of resin stuck to it under the overhang, 2. your vertical gaps under the horizontal gaps are closed near the back 3. the checkerboard, which has "ramps" from the lower back edge to the top front edge.
Love the outcome! Also great set up to make the prints :)
Thank you!
OMG That looks really good!
Man that looks amazing, every time I see details like this my wallets starts to shake a bit. Don't have the room though. :( Great to see detailed videos like this!
Thank you! The wallet is at great risk all the time around here, it seems like there is always "just one more" tool to take everything to the next level. The problem is the levels never stop coming 🤣
Yeah Wisconsin! Great stuff neighbor!
Really professional results. Silver melting point is about the same as brass, very clean and very fluid. Make your wife and yourself some knock out jewelry and stuff.
I'd love to, still learning how to 3d model and design jewelry, though
just copy some cool looking file@@PaulsGarage
Ho, (ja’)annin-tēpi sashisea! Returned to TH-cam you are. Most Excellent.
I'm trying to keep posting but life keeps getting in the way 🤣
Wow! Imagine the silver sword you could make using this technique...
Cheers from Alaska
I was thinking the same thing!! If only I could go back and redo that
@@PaulsGarage Practice with zamak or even zinc.
This is an awesome cast paul.
That is impressive fine detail. Congratulations.
Thank you! I'm pretty happy with it
Hi Paul! Have you ever thought about using a flexible filament like one of the very soft TPU’s for casting? I currently don’t have the capabilities to print TPU otherwise I would try it. I am curious if you could design parts that are deformable and actually pull out of the dried plaster instead of melting out. This obviously would not be possible with something that has many holes in it like the Dinosaur skull, but may work for larger, more solid shapes like the Lathe base you just made?
Im going to be casting 1:6 scale tank track links and have questions about how i should place the risers to avoid shrinking and voids. Open to suggestions.
Remodel you're kitchen. You could make all new fixtures and a faucet.
That would be awesome
Hi Paul…can you please share your printer settings for tgis resin on the GK2? Or did i miss them somewhere?
Are the supports and excess materials able to be remelted to be reused or once it’s printed there’s no reusing it?
This is unbelievable man
Unbelievably *good* I hope 🤣
@@PaulsGarageI really truly aspire to make something this cool!
Got a sand casting kit and some scrap silver, made a ring on a lathe and cast it, it’s not perfect yet, need to re melt but it’s a start.
I’m building a large furnace too for copper, aluminium, brass, bronze… I’ve got a keg and cut it in half, made some large stainless rings and welded them on. I need to buy materials now to get it running, when the budget allows 😂
I’m so excited by it all though
Will this process work well for silver casting too?
Cool. And back to the Gingery lathe next?
Thanks! Not sure if thats next but definitely soon
Not that the Dremel is unnecessary, but I'm curious on using the ultrasonic after casting without the Dremel and how it'd turn out.
Good idea! I really need one of those vibratory polisher things to get Inside all the details too
That’s some great information. I’ll have to try out that other kind of investment. I have been dealing with a lot of cracking in the investment on my last few resin projects.
I chose the blue resin to use just to avoid the glycerin step. I don’t believe the true blue requires the glycerin but I hear it’s harder to print with.
If it cracks with blue it will probably crack with purple. Blue is supposedly designed for easier burnout. I have a bottle of blue here. I'll have to open it up and see how it works
What Print settings were you using?
I'd add just a tiny bit of bismuth to your ZA-12 to offset the shrinkage.
Hmm...even the gang at Belmont Metals haven't recommended using bismuth to combat shrink, but going from 1.2% to almost none would be mighty nice. How many grams would need to be added per pound or kilogram of the total melt?
@@justinchamberlin4195 I'm no metallurgist, so... I don't actually know.
I would worry about changing the properties of the metal too much. A tiny bit of the wrong metal can take a solid alloy and make it super brittle, for example. Worth a test, though. It might be great
@@PaulsGarage While you're at it, you should also look into metal matrix composites. It'd be interesting to find out if there are any that can be made at home.
I've had nothing but problems adding sprues to my resins, and recently I've had lots of failed prints. I'd look into a new printer, but I need to get a leather sewing machine, and that is this quarter's budget.
You aren't the first person to mention difficulty spruing up resin prints. I haven't had an issue at all, so i have no idea what's going on. It seems like a common problem, though.
The Yellow Text wasn't holding back today. Pretty nice castings.
Very few text interruptions, but each one had maximum impact 🤣
Great work!
Thanks!
Very good video Paul, you've got the hang of the process perfectly! I like 50/50 blue/purple as it's a bit less brittle and prints nicer detail, still glycerine cure it tho lol
I use regular investment, mixed at 36:100 works fine for Siraya cast resin without excessive cracking, and only need 730C for a few hours at peak. The shitty first gen resins, and a bunch of other current gen ones are pretty bad too tho and need the expansion friendly resin type ones lol Resinworks, Siraya and Bluecast are ones I reccomend, with preference for SIraya due to cost xD
Hopefully you're not doing full 17 hour burnouts, as it's totally not needed. I've ran 6-7 hour burnout cycles with this stuff very frequently :)
You may want to consider making lathe tooling with pretty artwork embedded into it, if you use Zbrushes Bas Relief command (or other 3d tool) you can project 3d models onto the surface of other objects, kinda like how a coin gets that engaved look, can apply stuff to any other tools you have to be cast and make them super pretty and personalised with very minimal effort ;)
p.s. this will now be my goto video to share with people who need an easy to understand explanation of wtf i do haha :)
Thank you! I use blender and I intend to add decorative surfaces to parts, but that will mostly be sand cast which limits a little of what I can do there. What burnout schedule are you using?
@@PaulsGarage
0-150C asap
150 C- 3 hrs
150C - 700 asap
700C- 3 hrs
drop to flask casting temp (e.g. 560C) for 90 mins to 2 hours depending on flask size.
How good would say a Robocop head/helmet, cast into metal, look? ive not seen anyone here on you tube do this yet too ambitious perhaps.
water pick with alcohol is my go to.
That is a really good idea, I never would have thought of that
used to be an efficient drunk..
I wonder why they recommend the glycerine rather than just curing in water?
Maybe it can strip oxygen from water.
its a low oxygen environment
Another commenter mentioned that vegetable glycerin is also a plasticizer for these resins, maybe it has something to do with it
cast a set of small bevel gears or a gt2 sprocket
my shit always warps and ends up useless
Those sound like things that really need to be machined
na.
well, probably.
fdm/fff i have no issues.
print whole gearboxes.
run real well.
resin always seems to warp.
drives me bananas.
@amandahugankiss4110 oh yeah resin stuff does tend to warp worse than FDM for sure, I've noticed the same thing
You don't have to be honest if that hurts your ears 4:29.
I've got a welder in my living room right now, it's hiding behind the couch, but it is still in my living room. I don't think my wife has looked back there recently, that's why I've gotten away with it. ;-)
Can you make a item for me and use it for a video to share I need a copy of one that is broken and replace it with a printed copy I can pay whatever you want to do this
I'm sorry I don't make parts as a service, but there are some companies that can do that. PCBway is one I think
In b4 you toss that drill mixer and get a cheap kitchen mixer
also put your glycerine and models under vacuum to ditch extra bubbles
That's a good idea! The vacuum chamber, I really like my drill mixer 🤣
Uh, alcohol in an ultrasonic? Not a good idea.
Why is that? I've only seen ethanol, ipa, and acetone suggested to use
@@PaulsGarage ultrasonic waves create fine vapor that can combust rather impressively if it consists of any kind of flammable fluid.
There's a way to do it safely (look for a NASA paper on ultrasonic cleaning with parts bagged in alcohol from way back in 60ies) but I would not want to try it any other way.
Best case you get the scare of your life when it spontaneously goes pop. Worst case are severe burns, concussion and hearing damage.
@@PaulsGarage it vaporizes a not insignificant amount so they say dont use anything flammable. but just some decent ventilation is enough to deal with that. i extract lions mane in 95% ethanol in an ultrasonic and have never had a problem.
This ultrasonic looks like it could be vapor tight as the lid seems to have a seal. The big advantage to using a separate container with the alcohol / part that you then put in the Ultrasonic full of water is that you need less alcohol that way.
@@4o4o4at the end of the day it's just about air fuel mixtures.
😒 *promosm*
wow you talk a lot
Bro, you said a whole bunch of nothing😂