Yes, follow the instructions! You're supposed to cut at angle and while heating you push together with slight pressure, not after... Also START with the stated temps then adjust, he started way too hot, your not trying to go to past the glass transition point as if you're printing! Also youre supposed to trim any excess! UJ was doing it wrong those connections he made were horrible no wonder those few connections "clogged" the printers what would you expect when the filament is it out of tolerance by like +20 or +30%
@@SpannMagoo yeppers. Angle cut for sure works better but if you don’t slightly push it will tend to pull apart. I didn’t see a few comments saying I should fully leave it in the connector until it cools but I don’t believe it fully cools down as you can just load it back up and it welds right away
@@UncleJessy Did you keep it at that 195? I feel like a temp closer to the material's glass transition would make it more manageable EDIT: SHiiiiit I'm dumb. I only have a couple min left in the video and got distracted. Love the vid :)
I bought it and just received it. What helps welding the two rolls is having one stacked on top of the other so theyre angles follow the natural curve, then you insert it into the sleeve and then the machine.
I've been using this same method for about a year now, using silicone tubing and a soldering iron to heat the connection. I learned it from another video on YT (What is Mike Making Now). It is the only method that I have found that is easy, inexpensive and most of all reliable. I'll just keep on using my soldering iron instead of spending money a device that does the same thing.
I just take my partial rolls and put them in my AMS and tell the AMS that they are all the same colors and it just autofills when one empties out. Easy peasy no welding or respooling….
Two jigs could significantly improve the filament joining process. A trimming jig would ensure clean, straight cuts for a seamless connection between the two pieces. Additionally, a guiding jig would maintain filament alignment during the melting process, preventing warping and inconsistencies.
Aurora Tech did a review of this device that shows combining two partial spools and then she also made a large print using multiple connections. It does seem to take a little finesse to get it working right, but it does seem to work. She also tested it using a number of different types of filament to see how well it worked. She was very thorough. Something related to 3D printing that takes a little practice to get it to work right? Unthinkable!
I always thought one of these would be great, but...my P1S doesn't have a problem recovering from running out of filament. I guess the bonus of something like this is that you don't really have to be present, but I'm paranoid about printing while out of the house anyway after my Neptune 4 decided to start itself on the journey to combustion.
I've been doing this - by hand - for years, never had an issue, I just join two clean ends with a small butane torch (a lighter would probably work) and then clean the join up with a scalpel.
I have tried many different methods and gadgets and I have never once gotten a join that can make it through an extruder, either it bulges and can't make it through the extruder, or the join is too weak and breaks.
It takes a little babysitting but iv found that Bambu printers are really good at detecting runout, pausing and resuming prints. If you dont need something to be done overnight and have the time to just check on it every hour or so iv fount it pretty reliable to just reload it and resume prints when it runs out.
I've been using it, and yes there is a learning curve, but it works great once you get it down. It takes a little finesse to keep the weld at a diameter that will fit in a Teflon tube. I just turned a bunch of partial rolls into a single roll with it last night. If I'm doing multiple partial rolls, I just slide their connector on down while re-spooling it. I also have a Teflon tube for the filament to go through to ensure that the weld knot slides through fine.
I'd try cutting the filament at an angle at both ends, so you would have a larger surface/contact point on both spools. Look up images of "splicing plants together" if you don't get what I mean
"Lowering the temperature down to 170 seemed to work best" That was the default temperature and you raised it up before you started using it so I think that's user error
Got my sunlu connector yesterday I never read any instructions as it’s straight forward, had one failed join as it moved once heated. Never applied any pressure and so far all looks good
from what ive seen most cut it at a 45 and push it together while its in the heating system still before popping it out but looks like a cool machine for small scraps
Oh wow! I was JUST thinking recently that I need something like this to connect my little leftover pieces of pla to a new roll . Thank so much for this! Good day! 😊👍🏽
Is there by chance any way to save the ptfe sleeves? When I used a ptfe tube and a lighter to try and join filament I was able to keep sliding the tube to the end of the roll and then slide it off at the end. Don't know if that's an option or if the tube deforms after use. I did pre order it because it seems like a cool way to combine rolls.
I've used this Jessy and done a review on my channel greedy 3D you've got a cuti it at a 45 degree angle give it a Gentle push when it's inside and let it cool after I've got to be honest I've had some fantastic results with it good idea regarding the responding too😁
Ive just bought one and after one initial fail its worked great since, although I have only tried it on PLA. I have founf applying just a hint of pressure works well but the default timings and temps work well for me. Consumables do need to be made available but short term you could just buy 2mm id, 3mm od ptfe tube and cut it to length. It is far better than some of the other options out there.
of all the products on the market this has to be by far the best option, sorry Jessy but on this one you didnt do your homework very well evryone knows that you always cut filament at 45 degrees , also shout out to Nikkoindustries for the dog , still gonna watch your vids , love you dude
This little gizmo actuatlly works. Some things I've found out: - Cut both filaments at the same time by cutting both lying next to each other; - take your time to align everything when putting everything into the sleeves; - not all filaments are made equally, test putting together different types of filaments, brands, ... - be patient: things get welded together in like 5 to 10 seconds. Great, keep a little pressure on both ends for like 5 to 10 seconds (especially do this while melting and welding'); - enjoy multi-coloured prints without having to use your garbage bin 🙂 All joking apart, this thing works pretty well but needs attention. It's a fairly quick thing to do, but - again - needs some attention to do. Otherwise, one of the hundred things I did not waste my money on.
Printing the spool winder now! Thanks! I have a question. Do you know of any multifilament systems that works out of the box for the K1C? I saw the ECRF V2 but I really don't have the time required to build, flash and trouble shoot it. I love my K1C but really want a AMS, CFS, or anything really that works out of the box. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I've used devices like these before and they're very finicky, the force pushing the two ends together needs to be perfect, and any rotational twist differences tend to snap the connection after it's all spooled up. Too little force and the connection fails, too much and it bulges. Those little PTFE tubes look like they may help things _a little_ but your so-so results confirm these devices are ultimately a frustration. Also, most of the time the same brand & type of filaments are connected, you can still see where the junction happened because of very slight color variations from batch to batch.
first thing i would have done would been to cut both ends at an angle and then cut the ptf tubes into halves to get longer use from them.. :) still trying to work out why it took so many years for someone to bring this out.. lol
I experimented with a cheap filament welder from amazon awhile back and I found its best to take some sand paper and smooth out any bumps before using the filament.
If you have a 1/3 roll and half roll yes cutting would be easy way? after looking at this the 1/3 roll will you would want to spool in the half roll right? so if some one came up with a winder where you could clamp the tube in the device to hold the tube in place then spool I would think you can use the same tube over and over??
I got a question if you have a skull mask already printed but you decide you want an articulating jaw but you don't want to reprint it how do you cut the jaw off without ruining the whole mask
I personally have a palette 2 that i bought on the second hand market for 200$ it works very well for joining spools and doing a few multicolor prints.
could u push the filament together well its still clicked in? it would probably keep it together. u could probably also keep it clipped in till it cools. just shut the machine off if it keeps heating.
A couple tips, cut both at an angle, apply light pressure on both strands, use 185deg temp, I preordered one, as I have been printing for nearly 2 years and I have a LOT of spools that have just enough to keep, but not throw away, I am anxious to get it, and work on combining my spools, so I can use the empty spools for storage, by printing the little drawers you can print for them.
From what I can see, it looks like the best approach is to get it all set up, put it into the heater, then once it's heated up, leave it in, turn off the heater, and let it cool with the joiner holding everything in place. Spiffy idea, but I think I do just as good feeding a new spool in, mid-print. (Done it enough over the years, I have a 100% success at loading filament on-the-fly)
Check out the Aurora Tech Channel review of the connector...cutting the filament ends at 45˚ angles, holding them together until the heating time is up, and just using a hobby knife or side cutters instead of the built-in cutter for the sleeves seemed to work very well with stitching multiple mostly-consumed spools together. The giant trash can Aurora printed with her Frankenspool seemed to print pretty flawlessly. All that being said, I feel like $35 is on the high side for this product (never mind the regular list price) and I don't think Sunlu has yet created a separate listing for just the PTFE sleeves, so the only way to get extras right now is to buy the 400-sleeve bundle when you buy the filament connector.
Just a thought, but it seems like the device should be much wider with rounded channels for the filament to sit into. That would make it way easier to keep both sides at the proper angle and position. Still not convinced it would be a workable solution, but it might have a higher percentage of successful joins.
I really like the idea and it would be fun to play with to make funky filaments. The only issue I have with it is that it's meant to kind of reduce wasted filament but in the end you end up creating more waste with tiny bits of teflon tubes. I kind of wish they'd ditch the mini tubes and use something that is easier to dispose of like uncoated parchment paper or something that can be recycled easily or that's biodegradable.
Yo Jesse, im more interested in your racks you have to store your filament spools. Probably because i already bought the joiner lol. What are the racks called? Did you buy or make them yourself?
I would leave the filament in the filament connector for a few minutes to let cool and should work alot better, I pike this compared to the clamp style that is nearly impossible to hold everything together
I ordered one when it was first announced, took a chance so happy to see it does work. Expected it to be finicky as well. Probably should have ordered the extra connectors when I had the chance :(
Lower the temp back down, trim them straight not at an angle, press in tight, then place in and press play. Don’t pre heat it. It will beep when finished.
Completely wrong according to the direction from the manufacturer that ot seems no youtuber or reviewer knows how to read. Cut at an angle, put in tube, insert the joint into the preheated slot, push together lightly and hold until it beeps then remove. It's not rocket science.
What do you mean? I just used all random rolls of PLA I had laying around and used an empty bambu clear spool so you could see the colors after it was all spliced and rolled
youre suppose to fuse them with pressure like youre doing but while its in the machine acts like a guide to fuse straight and keep proper diameter and cut the filament at a 45 degree angle to help fuse together. gl to all i hope i win 1!! i think this is genius!
I think some sort of cooling block/clamp might help keeping it straight while cooling. Two 1 inch aluminium blocks with a groove drilled out of both sides. Or ever a 3d printed one with some aluminium foil covering them. Great video. Keep up the good work.
You could try while it is in the connection area after it is heated turning off the power to it and letting it cool down naturally for about 5 minutes then clipping off the other part
Gives me flashbacks of tuning my splices for the pallet 3 pro lol.
4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hi, I have a Creality ender3 s1 pro printer, I don't have any problems with small prints, but when I want to print large prints, it says communication with the MCU is lost at different times and the printing process stops, when I want to continue from where it left off, it starts from the wrong position. Why does this machine give an error with large prints, I searched the internet and couldn't find much information that would be useful for me. I talked to a service and they told me that this could be due to overheating of the sonic pad, stepper or motherboard. I don't know what to do. Do you think cooling the steppers could be a solution, if you have published a video about this, I couldn't find it unfortunately. I would be very happy if you could give me advice. Unfortunately, I don't have enough technical knowledge on these issues. 😞
I like my method of using a brass tube that you heat up. you add both pieces of filament into a brass tube then heat that up melting the plastic and push together. If you use a tube that is same diameter as the filament then it shapes to that size. downsize is for your purpose you would have to run your whole remaining roll though the tube piece. I usually only splice 2-3 feet at a time and I haven't tried it with my new k1 max which has 1.75 filament I was using a 3mm tube for my ultimaker.
Perhaps let it cool in the splicer before removing? Honestly, if you have a Pallet 2s or similar, it joins scraps of filament awesomely, and I used mine to make my own quick transition filament. It also does spool to spool joining as it detects run out. So joining multiple near empty spools is great. It is just much slower than the spool winder you demonstrated. Great video. I found this after watching another video yesterday morning.
I think that they need to add a cutter to this so that you get a constant angle cut for each filament. It would make joining them much stronger and more reliable.
Thanks for the honest review. I received one of the manual filament welders ($9) for Christmas and tried it and it was... not fun. I was considering getting the electric one that looks like a hair curler. As to spare PTF tube, I bet a lot of people have spare tube if they didn't toss it. Each time I replaced my hot end I would swap it out for a Capricorn tube so I've got a baggy of generic PTF that could probably be chopped up for something like this. Cool find with the spool winder, I'll have to check that out. :)
How about just being patient and letting it cool down inside the joiner before opening it. Because he kept pulling it out while its still soft and pushing. Turn it on, slightly push the filament in, let it cool down, once cooled, then pull it out
Thanks for the feature Uncle Jessy! Glad that it did the job :) Now thinking that I need to design one specifically to work with the filament connector... Just wondering if there's a chance you could change the bio link to my makerworld upload instead? Shipping from Prague to Australia is too much even using the points! Appreciate you!
Ah, thank you, finally I have proof that Bambu does not handle filament jam situations, and prints in air, just like any printer from 20 years ago. They should really added filament motion sensor for that. But I guess they do not want you to use problematic filament, only official spools. That is why. Also if your printer normally handles runout event, you can just print all your spools by changing them when they are run out. The only thing needed is that you are near the printer doing something. When I am transitioning from spool to spool I just plan print when I will be near the printer. Then I change filament and that's. You can also wield filament with good old PTFE + lighter method, which is old as 3d printing is. And you can use PTFE as a guide when rewinding the filament, very convenient. For me it is fun, that my $100 Ender 3 can handle filament stuck without ruining the print and some top notch 'pear' printer can not. But to be fair, I have not seen any printer which have filament motion sensor out of the box. I heard that Bambulab AMS partially solves this problem. But I am not sure.
@@UncleJessy There is a video showing the process on their website (but some sort of instruction sheet stating the basics would have been useful). It shows the 45 degree cuts too. I'm waiting for mine to arrive. I think my main use will be to pull the last few loops of filament off an old spool that is in use and weld the end to the start of a new spool so I don't have to mess around with the machine pausing when the filament out sensor is triggered. Your respooling efforts look easier than I expected, so I might try that.
I didnt see any other creators pushing them together. Most also did an angle cut.
angle cut has more surface area for a stronger connection
Yup. Seems like he didn’t do it the best way. We all learn through practice.
Yes, follow the instructions! You're supposed to cut at angle and while heating you push together with slight pressure, not after... Also START with the stated temps then adjust, he started way too hot, your not trying to go to past the glass transition point as if you're printing! Also youre supposed to trim any excess! UJ was doing it wrong those connections he made were horrible no wonder those few connections "clogged" the printers what would you expect when the filament is it out of tolerance by like +20 or +30%
@@SpannMagoo yeppers. Angle cut for sure works better but if you don’t slightly push it will tend to pull apart. I didn’t see a few comments saying I should fully leave it in the connector until it cools but I don’t believe it fully cools down as you can just load it back up and it welds right away
@@UncleJessy Did you keep it at that 195? I feel like a temp closer to the material's glass transition would make it more manageable
EDIT: SHiiiiit I'm dumb. I only have a couple min left in the video and got distracted. Love the vid :)
Thanks for the shoutout, Uncle Jessy!
I believe you were the first to make a video about this product.
I bought it and just received it. What helps welding the two rolls is having one stacked on top of the other so theyre angles follow the natural curve, then you insert it into the sleeve and then the machine.
I've been using this same method for about a year now, using silicone tubing and a soldering iron to heat the connection. I learned it from another video on YT (What is Mike Making Now). It is the only method that I have found that is easy, inexpensive and most of all reliable. I'll just keep on using my soldering iron instead of spending money a device that does the same thing.
I would love a whole video on re-spooling techniques and gear.
@@chrisjoyner3376 funny you mention that. I might do a followup testing a bunch of the respool printable options as they seem pretty cool
I just take my partial rolls and put them in my AMS and tell the AMS that they are all the same colors and it just autofills when one empties out. Easy peasy no welding or respooling….
Which Ams? Regular or lite?
@ on the regular AMS don’t own a lite so I can’t say if it works on it.
Two jigs could significantly improve the filament joining process. A trimming jig would ensure clean, straight cuts for a seamless connection between the two pieces. Additionally, a guiding jig would maintain filament alignment during the melting process, preventing warping and inconsistencies.
Aurora Tech did a review of this device that shows combining two partial spools and then she also made a large print using multiple connections. It does seem to take a little finesse to get it working right, but it does seem to work. She also tested it using a number of different types of filament to see how well it worked. She was very thorough.
Something related to 3D printing that takes a little practice to get it to work right? Unthinkable!
I was about to say that. She has a very good review and she combines several partial rows together and then prints with it.
True. Trial and Error error error error....
Angled cut, and a jig? or just turn it off and let it cool gradually?
I always thought one of these would be great, but...my P1S doesn't have a problem recovering from running out of filament. I guess the bonus of something like this is that you don't really have to be present, but I'm paranoid about printing while out of the house anyway after my Neptune 4 decided to start itself on the journey to combustion.
I've been doing this - by hand - for years, never had an issue, I just join two clean ends with a small butane torch (a lighter would probably work) and then clean the join up with a scalpel.
Filament surgeon over here.. I got to give it a try
I have tried many different methods and gadgets and I have never once gotten a join that can make it through an extruder, either it bulges and can't make it through the extruder, or the join is too weak and breaks.
It takes a little babysitting but iv found that Bambu printers are really good at detecting runout, pausing and resuming prints.
If you dont need something to be done overnight and have the time to just check on it every hour or so iv fount it pretty reliable to just reload it and resume prints when it runs out.
I've been using it, and yes there is a learning curve, but it works great once you get it down. It takes a little finesse to keep the weld at a diameter that will fit in a Teflon tube. I just turned a bunch of partial rolls into a single roll with it last night. If I'm doing multiple partial rolls, I just slide their connector on down while re-spooling it. I also have a Teflon tube for the filament to go through to ensure that the weld knot slides through fine.
I'd try cutting the filament at an angle at both ends, so you would have a larger surface/contact point on both spools. Look up images of "splicing plants together" if you don't get what I mean
That’s a really good idea
"Lowering the temperature down to 170 seemed to work best"
That was the default temperature and you raised it up before you started using it so I think that's user error
yup, RTFM Read The F#$@$ Manual
Finally! I can use up all my filament scraps I’ve been saving since 2012 😂
whats funny is i literally threw away about 50-100 near empty rolls a few months ago. Would have been perfect for this... or not haha
there's a jig in the thingiverse that works wonders.
@@UncleJessy With that much practice, I think those rolls would have made you super proficient
@@UncleJessyohkay i am sorry man
Got my sunlu connector yesterday I never read any instructions as it’s straight forward, had one failed join as it moved once heated. Never applied any pressure and so far all looks good
Can’t wait to get my Sunlu Connector. Also I saw LM Sparkle Green….such an awesome color filament. Thanks for the great video.
Something that i think would help are those helping fingers people use to hold circuit boards and components together for soldering.
from what ive seen most cut it at a 45 and push it together while its in the heating system still before popping it out but looks like a cool machine for small scraps
Oh wow! I was JUST thinking recently that I need something like this to connect my little leftover pieces of pla to a new roll . Thank so much for this! Good day! 😊👍🏽
Is there by chance any way to save the ptfe sleeves? When I used a ptfe tube and a lighter to try and join filament I was able to keep sliding the tube to the end of the roll and then slide it off at the end. Don't know if that's an option or if the tube deforms after use. I did pre order it because it seems like a cool way to combine rolls.
Other reviewers have indicated that you can indeed save the PTFE tube by pushing it off the end.
I spread the rolls out and place a weight n the filaments. to keep them in place works great and use a angle cut.
I've used this Jessy and done a review on my channel greedy 3D you've got a cuti it at a 45 degree angle give it a Gentle push when it's inside and let it cool after I've got to be honest I've had some fantastic results with it good idea regarding the responding too😁
Ive just bought one and after one initial fail its worked great since, although I have only tried it on PLA. I have founf applying just a hint of pressure works well but the default timings and temps work well for me. Consumables do need to be made available but short term you could just buy 2mm id, 3mm od ptfe tube and cut it to length. It is far better than some of the other options out there.
of all the products on the market this has to be by far the best option, sorry Jessy but on this one you didnt do your homework very well evryone knows that you always cut filament at 45 degrees , also shout out to Nikkoindustries for the dog , still gonna watch your vids , love you dude
This little gizmo actuatlly works. Some things I've found out:
- Cut both filaments at the same time by cutting both lying next to each other;
- take your time to align everything when putting everything into the sleeves;
- not all filaments are made equally, test putting together different types of filaments, brands, ...
- be patient: things get welded together in like 5 to 10 seconds. Great, keep a little pressure on both ends for like 5 to 10 seconds (especially do this while melting and welding');
- enjoy multi-coloured prints without having to use your garbage bin 🙂
All joking apart, this thing works pretty well but needs attention. It's a fairly quick thing to do, but - again - needs some attention to do. Otherwise, one of the hundred things I did not waste my money on.
I've been tempted to preorder one, but was waiting for a good review video. Looks like it takes some patience..
Do you think if you left original temp it mightwork better?
Printing the spool winder now! Thanks! I have a question. Do you know of any multifilament systems that works out of the box for the K1C? I saw the ECRF V2 but I really don't have the time required to build, flash and trouble shoot it. I love my K1C but really want a AMS, CFS, or anything really that works out of the box. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I've used devices like these before and they're very finicky, the force pushing the two ends together needs to be perfect, and any rotational twist differences tend to snap the connection after it's all spooled up. Too little force and the connection fails, too much and it bulges. Those little PTFE tubes look like they may help things _a little_ but your so-so results confirm these devices are ultimately a frustration. Also, most of the time the same brand & type of filaments are connected, you can still see where the junction happened because of very slight color variations from batch to batch.
first thing i would have done would been to cut both ends at an angle and then cut the ptf tubes into halves to get longer use from them.. :) still trying to work out why it took so many years for someone to bring this out.. lol
Have you figured out how to get a good weld everytime?
I experimented with a cheap filament welder from amazon awhile back and I found its best to take some sand paper and smooth out any bumps before using the filament.
Are you supposed to wait a few seconds before taking it out of the welder to allow it to cool?
Does it automatically cool down? Like could you stick the joint in the machine and just leave it until it cools on its own?
Just tested it. Stays warm
@@UncleJessyunplug it and it will cool down. I’ve seen others let it cool and had better results
If you have a 1/3 roll and half roll yes cutting would be easy way? after looking at this the 1/3 roll will you would want to spool in the half roll right? so if some one came up with a winder where you could clamp the tube in the device to hold the tube in place then spool I would think you can use the same tube over and over??
What if you angle cut the welding pieces?
plus standard temp for pla is set at 185 which works really well
are you putting angled cuts(splice joint) in the filament? If correct you're supposed to do flat cuts and just add pressure.
angled has more surface area for a stronger connection.
@@LexxDesign3D I would normally agree
I got a question if you have a skull mask already printed but you decide you want an articulating jaw but you don't want to reprint it how do you cut the jaw off without ruining the whole mask
Cool idea! Hope they can perfect it! Also think itd be cool to take old prints and melt/break them down into new usable filament.
I personally have a palette 2 that i bought on the second hand market for 200$ it works very well for joining spools and doing a few multicolor prints.
Well the instructions do say to cut the two ends at an angle. If you do that, they weld together without the buldge
I ordered one as soon as I saw it on facebook, this is the first review I’ve seen
honestly this device is very helpful! I'd invest to this.
could u push the filament together well its still clicked in? it would probably keep it together. u could probably also keep it clipped in till it cools. just shut the machine off if it keeps heating.
A couple tips, cut both at an angle, apply light pressure on both strands, use 185deg temp, I preordered one, as I have been printing for nearly 2 years and I have a LOT of spools that have just enough to keep, but not throw away, I am anxious to get it, and work on combining my spools, so I can use the empty spools for storage, by printing the little drawers you can print for them.
a heat gun and a knife or sand paper seems more efficient ... the respooler is amazing tho!
This is exactly how I thought it would go... Same as the other ones out there. Dang, I was hopeful!
The others didn't have such a hard time. They made a diagonal cut and had no issues whatsoever
I have seen other reviewer videos and it worked fine for everyone else. Just have to read the available instructions (on their website).
From what I can see, it looks like the best approach is to get it all set up, put it into the heater, then once it's heated up, leave it in, turn off the heater, and let it cool with the joiner holding everything in place.
Spiffy idea, but I think I do just as good feeding a new spool in, mid-print. (Done it enough over the years, I have a 100% success at loading filament on-the-fly)
Check out the Aurora Tech Channel review of the connector...cutting the filament ends at 45˚ angles, holding them together until the heating time is up, and just using a hobby knife or side cutters instead of the built-in cutter for the sleeves seemed to work very well with stitching multiple mostly-consumed spools together. The giant trash can Aurora printed with her Frankenspool seemed to print pretty flawlessly.
All that being said, I feel like $35 is on the high side for this product (never mind the regular list price) and I don't think Sunlu has yet created a separate listing for just the PTFE sleeves, so the only way to get extras right now is to buy the 400-sleeve bundle when you buy the filament connector.
Just a thought, but it seems like the device should be much wider with rounded channels for the filament to sit into. That would make it way easier to keep both sides at the proper angle and position.
Still not convinced it would be a workable solution, but it might have a higher percentage of successful joins.
I pre-order this back in July and still haven't received it yet.
this is what a honest review is about!
I just manually feed the spare rolls in during printing, super easy.
I really like the idea and it would be fun to play with to make funky filaments. The only issue I have with it is that it's meant to kind of reduce wasted filament but in the end you end up creating more waste with tiny bits of teflon tubes. I kind of wish they'd ditch the mini tubes and use something that is easier to dispose of like uncoated parchment paper or something that can be recycled easily or that's biodegradable.
Usually finishing my roll to print some rings but gonna buy this to make more crazy ones !
Thanks for the honest review!
Yo Jesse, im more interested in your racks you have to store your filament spools. Probably because i already bought the joiner lol. What are the racks called? Did you buy or make them yourself?
Printables, reprack system. Just give it a search. Made by Repkord and printable + some cheap metal conduit. A really awesome storage system
I would leave the filament in the filament connector for a few minutes to let cool and should work alot better, I pike this compared to the clamp style that is nearly impossible to hold everything together
I ordered one when it was first announced, took a chance so happy to see it does work. Expected it to be finicky as well. Probably should have ordered the extra connectors when I had the chance :(
Would love to get one, but Sunlu does not ship to Alaska :(
Are the PTFE Fumes safe though? That's honestly my main concern...
Seems like a very manual way to do what I'm doing with the Mosaic 2. Feed a partial spool in, hit multispool mode and go.
Lower the temp back down, trim them straight not at an angle, press in tight, then place in and press play. Don’t pre heat it. It will beep when finished.
45 degree angle has more surface area for a stronger connection.
Completely wrong according to the direction from the manufacturer that ot seems no youtuber or reviewer knows how to read.
Cut at an angle, put in tube, insert the joint into the preheated slot, push together lightly and hold until it beeps then remove.
It's not rocket science.
I got it and after 20 attempts, I gave up, this device doesn't work. bent connection, melted outside the ptfe tube...
Have to cut the filament ends at a 45 degree angle and then weld them together
Can it fuse filaments that are not compatible with the AMS?
What do you mean? I just used all random rolls of PLA I had laying around and used an empty bambu clear spool so you could see the colors after it was all spliced and rolled
Like fusing a PLA header to some TPU I assume? It's an interesting idea!
@@UncleJessy like abrasives or flexibles that you have to feed through the back of the bambus (same to same, not mixed)
@@UncleJessy nevermind, I looked at the Sunlu webpage and it doesnt fuse abrasives or flexibles.
Love to see the elegoo rapid petg. That is a budget baller and what I use for my business exclusively
7:12 It's totally your fault, you are doing it all wrong, wrong temp, wrong cut, wrong everything.
Would like to see this compared to a freely available filament welder model and compare the quality/ease of use between them.
it does state to cut the filament at a 45 degree angle to get maximum surface area contact
youre suppose to fuse them with pressure like youre doing but while its in the machine acts like a guide to fuse straight and keep proper diameter and cut the filament at a 45 degree angle to help fuse together. gl to all i hope i win 1!! i think this is genius!
I think some sort of cooling block/clamp might help keeping it straight while cooling. Two 1 inch aluminium blocks with a groove drilled out of both sides. Or ever a 3d printed one with some aluminium foil covering them.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Huh? This looks great useful and most importantly affordable!
Always had trouble joining filament. This looks...slightly better?
You could try while it is in the connection area after it is heated turning off the power to it and letting it cool down naturally for about 5 minutes then clipping off the other part
Gives me flashbacks of tuning my splices for the pallet 3 pro lol.
Hi, I have a Creality ender3 s1 pro printer, I don't have any problems with small prints, but when I want to print large prints, it says communication with the MCU is lost at different times and the printing process stops, when I want to continue from where it left off, it starts from the wrong position. Why does this machine give an error with large prints, I searched the internet and couldn't find much information that would be useful for me. I talked to a service and they told me that this could be due to overheating of the sonic pad, stepper or motherboard. I don't know what to do. Do you think cooling the steppers could be a solution, if you have published a video about this, I couldn't find it unfortunately. I would be very happy if you could give me advice. Unfortunately, I don't have enough technical knowledge on these issues. 😞
I like my method of using a brass tube that you heat up. you add both pieces of filament into a brass tube then heat that up melting the plastic and push together. If you use a tube that is same diameter as the filament then it shapes to that size. downsize is for your purpose you would have to run your whole remaining roll though the tube piece. I usually only splice 2-3 feet at a time and I haven't tried it with my new k1 max which has 1.75 filament I was using a 3mm tube for my ultimaker.
Perhaps let it cool in the splicer before removing?
Honestly, if you have a Pallet 2s or similar, it joins scraps of filament awesomely, and I used mine to make my own quick transition filament.
It also does spool to spool joining as it detects run out. So joining multiple near empty spools is great. It is just much slower than the spool winder you demonstrated.
Great video.
I found this after watching another video yesterday morning.
this is gonna be one of my most used tools
ive mainly used this to make larger spools for bigger prints
I think that they need to add a cutter to this so that you get a constant angle cut for each filament. It would make joining them much stronger and more reliable.
Thanks for the honest review. I received one of the manual filament welders ($9) for Christmas and tried it and it was... not fun. I was considering getting the electric one that looks like a hair curler.
As to spare PTF tube, I bet a lot of people have spare tube if they didn't toss it. Each time I replaced my hot end I would swap it out for a Capricorn tube so I've got a baggy of generic PTF that could probably be chopped up for something like this.
Cool find with the spool winder, I'll have to check that out. :)
This would be an awesome project to have this whole setup look an old Reel to Reel.
What is that white thing on your eye?
@@WATCHMAKUH my eye lashes 👁️
Filament run out sensor is the best way to go
Looking at Aurora channel cutting the two part 45 degrees seems to give a much better results
How about just being patient and letting it cool down inside the joiner before opening it. Because he kept pulling it out while its still soft and pushing. Turn it on, slightly push the filament in, let it cool down, once cooled, then pull it out
Thanks! Instructions would be great along with the device 😂
@@UncleJessy Oh it didn't come with instructions, I missed that part, I retract my snarkiness 🤣🤣
Thanks for the feature Uncle Jessy! Glad that it did the job :) Now thinking that I need to design one specifically to work with the filament connector...
Just wondering if there's a chance you could change the bio link to my makerworld upload instead? Shipping from Prague to Australia is too much even using the points!
Appreciate you!
As someone who lives in Colorado I find the concept of a Filament dryer funny
As someone who lives in Tennessee, I totally understand why.
The issue that this thing has is the same issue of filament makers and pulltrusion methods. If you cant make a uniform filament, it ends up failing :(
So in order to stop wasting filament we’re replacing it with bits of wasted PTFE tubing???
@3DPrintingNerd did a video on this, respooled it (manually) and did a print with the role. Seemed to work great.
This is an opportunity to make the largest spool ever out of PLA. I’m here for it.
Ah, thank you, finally I have proof that Bambu does not handle filament jam situations, and prints in air, just like any printer from 20 years ago.
They should really added filament motion sensor for that. But I guess they do not want you to use problematic filament, only official spools. That is why.
Also if your printer normally handles runout event, you can just print all your spools by changing them when they are run out. The only thing needed is that you are near the printer doing something. When I am transitioning from spool to spool I just plan print when I will be near the printer. Then I change filament and that's.
You can also wield filament with good old PTFE + lighter method, which is old as 3d printing is. And you can use PTFE as a guide when rewinding the filament, very convenient.
For me it is fun, that my $100 Ender 3 can handle filament stuck without ruining the print and some top notch 'pear' printer can not. But to be fair, I have not seen any printer which have filament motion sensor out of the box.
I heard that Bambulab AMS partially solves this problem. But I am not sure.
That’s because you’re not waiting for it to cool down before you remove it!
The welding spot stays hot. You have to remove it. Also, there are zero instructions provided with this 😂
@@UncleJessy There is a video showing the process on their website (but some sort of instruction sheet stating the basics would have been useful). It shows the 45 degree cuts too. I'm waiting for mine to arrive. I think my main use will be to pull the last few loops of filament off an old spool that is in use and weld the end to the start of a new spool so I don't have to mess around with the machine pausing when the filament out sensor is triggered. Your respooling efforts look easier than I expected, so I might try that.
What happens if you let it cool before you try to move it?
Only reason i got an AMS for my P1S lol, Time we got a real filament dryer built into the AMS and that it will work with my Elegoo cardboard spools.