The lack of waste is the main reason for developing this method, but it also means there is very little wood to be removed when turning the shell down to final size / thickness. It works best when making a ring with long segments (say 6, 8, or 10 segments per ring) When I build a ring with 16 or 20 shorter segments per ring, I just do it the usual way rather than cutting curved pieces. I often make shells which have some rings with 10 curved segments per ring, and other rings which have 20 straight segments. Stave shells can be quite efficient as well, especially when you use 20 or more staves, you shouldn't have too much waste unless your staves are much thicker than you need. I can make a 12mm thick snare drum shell using 20 staves which are 15mm thick before turning. There's not much margin for error though. The shell is about 354mm in dia. before turning and 353mm after turning, so you are really just taking the corners off the staves on the outside of the shell, then as soon as it's round and there are no flat spots left, it's down to size and just needs sanded smooth!
Fraser, beautiful technique for cutting your wood. Smart and econimical as well. It will turn out nicely. May I give a suggestion if you haven't already thought of this? 1) I'm not sure if the block of the wood is already cut to the join angle for these pieces but I would suggest that before you turn your shell to let it just sit for at least a week. You may find that the segmented move and settle into place a little. Then turn them. 2) Are you using a drum sander to flatten the tops before joining layers? If not and in time it's a good investiment in equipment. Expensive but good. Again, smart thinking and all the best my friend.
Thanks abindigo, yes I allowed the pieces to dry out for a while after cutting them from the large block, then I cut the mitre angle and glued them into rings once they had settled for a few weeks. I would love a drum sander, but I can't afford one right now, but I can sand the rings flat by hand using a large sheet of sandpaper stuck to my work bench with double sided tape. It just takes a little longer!
I tried something simular. QUESTION: what size blade are ya using? the one I was using broke, and so I bought a blade with a few more teeth. Of course I was using a 6x4" oak timber. thoughts? Thanxs.
For thick stock, you are better with bigger teeth, which means less teeth per inch. 3 or 4 teeth per inch is good for most wood over an inch thick. For cutting curves you want a narrower blade width, so something about 10mm (3/8") wide.
Ok, I am sold on segmented vs. staves by this technique. There is almost no waste
The lack of waste is the main reason for developing this method, but it also means there is very little wood to be removed when turning the shell down to final size / thickness. It works best when making a ring with long segments (say 6, 8, or 10 segments per ring) When I build a ring with 16 or 20 shorter segments per ring, I just do it the usual way rather than cutting curved pieces. I often make shells which have some rings with 10 curved segments per ring, and other rings which have 20 straight segments. Stave shells can be quite efficient as well, especially when you use 20 or more staves, you shouldn't have too much waste unless your staves are much thicker than you need. I can make a 12mm thick snare drum shell using 20 staves which are 15mm thick before turning. There's not much margin for error though. The shell is about 354mm in dia. before turning and 353mm after turning, so you are really just taking the corners off the staves on the outside of the shell, then as soon as it's round and there are no flat spots left, it's down to size and just needs sanded smooth!
Fraser, beautiful technique for cutting your wood. Smart and econimical as well. It will turn out nicely.
May I give a suggestion if you haven't already thought of this?
1) I'm not sure if the block of the wood is already cut to the join angle for these pieces but I would suggest that before you turn your shell to let it just sit for at least a week. You may find that the segmented move and settle into place a little. Then turn them.
2) Are you using a drum sander to flatten the tops before joining layers? If not and in time it's a good investiment in equipment. Expensive but good.
Again, smart thinking and all the best my friend.
Thanks abindigo, yes I allowed the pieces to dry out for a while after cutting them from the large block, then I cut the mitre angle and glued them into rings once they had settled for a few weeks. I would love a drum sander, but I can't afford one right now, but I can sand the rings flat by hand using a large sheet of sandpaper stuck to my work bench with double sided tape. It just takes a little longer!
I tried something simular. QUESTION: what size blade are ya using? the one I was using broke, and so I bought a blade with a few more teeth. Of course I was using a 6x4" oak timber. thoughts? Thanxs.
For thick stock, you are better with bigger teeth, which means less teeth per inch. 3 or 4 teeth per inch is good for most wood over an inch thick. For cutting curves you want a narrower blade width, so something about 10mm (3/8") wide.