Using all this gold your giving us to setup my 2000 Z28. Looking forward to getting back out to the track & seeing the improvements you've help me make, thanks Kevin!
THANK YOU FOR THESE VIDEOS! I can’t even tell you how much I appreciate you teaching everyone these things. I have a Mustang with a torque arm and pan hard bar conversion. I’m assuming these F body videos would apply to tuning my suspension as well right?
Awesome video explaining how to correctly set up a torque arm FBody! And if drag racing, plz peeps do a short, frame mount arm. Your trans will thank you, long time. 💯💪🏽
That's a great tutorial on f body suspension 👍.. my project 94 Pontiac Trans am is getting fully adjustable BMR suspension components.. I'm not building a drag car but more on 5he the street strip auto cross and car shows-meets when she's complete 👍
Awesome video, my 2nd time watching and I’m getting real detail I just added tubular LCA, panhard bar and torque arm w trans mount. Feel like I can watch a few more videos and I’d be able to properly assess and perform on my car. I appreciate the intel 🏁🏁
Have full BMR Tubular K member upper and lower control arms, torque arm and adjustable rear lower control arms on my 97 T/A with all poly mounts and bushings am lucky enough to live in Tampa, close to where BMR is located so I did not have to pay shipping and had someone that worked there install it who has a side gig at night, for a very reasonable cost I know the job is done right! Like he said those solid mounts take some getting used to, but the car is solid as a rock!
My car has all the good parts. When I turn the nitrous up, it wants to pull the wheels off the ground. At 35% hit its fine but even a little more like 50% it pulls the wheels about 2ft off the ground. Trying to make that stop. I have viking double adjustable all the way around, umi torque arm, umi adjustable lca and quick performance ford 9". 3400lbs. Using slicks Mt et drag 28x10.5.
wobbuffet thanks so much for your questions! I have that request a bunch so I am planning a video to cover some recommendations for that scenario. Stay Tuned! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I’ve been chasing a serious vibration on a 4l80 swapped Fbody with all of the same components in this video. When you describe the 4* pinion angle, can you elaborate on how you measure to achieve this so I can try to replicate it? My current understanding is the difference in angle from the crankshaft and rear end.
I know I'm commenting on alot of videos but I just found your channel. In col ga we don't have much suspension shops for Ls but this video is helpful with my 2000 z28 Camaro grudge stock suspension car thanks an keep it up. Talk bout how much does the front suspension tweaking matters with getting the hole car to hook as a hole I'm very curious bout that. Ps wish you was closer I would pay you to get my car dailed in but more F body stuff please.
John Salary thanks so much for your comments on the various videos! No problem at all. I will definitely be doing a video about front end rise very soon. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I have a 97 Z28 that is lowered with the t56 manual trans, S60 rear with lca relo brackets, non adjustable tubular lcas in lowest mounting holes, adjustable UMI torque arm and trans crossmember that moves the front torque arm mount off the transmission. Where should I start the front torque arm mount ( center, up one set of bolt holes or down one set of bolt holes) and how much pinion angle 3*, 4* or ? Looking to get the car to plant the tires under power, running 315x35x17 drag radials, thanks.
Whats the best way to measure pinion angle? I have fully adjustable suspension with a fab 9 and I've been fighting vibrations for years. Tried starting with torque arm setup like you described and angle was so negative I couldn't even get it to bolt up.
Sunburst_xmr thanks so much for your question! I have a video on this, but I am going to do a part 2 with more drawings and examples. For now checkout th-cam.com/video/YE7Rn93JnD8/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
nsboost thanks so much for your comments! I will have more no prep videos coming. Checkout the video on front suspension tuning. Good info in that one for street and no prep. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great info, although I can't believe whoever installed the BMR parts didn't know the setup was dangerous. They're lucky they didn't kill the owner of the car. When I upgrade to QA1 adjustable shocks I now have a starting point for the settings. What spring rate (front and rear) do you suggest for my 99 WS6 Trans Am? It has full UMI Suspension, adjustable torque arm ( relocated to the T56 cross member), driveshaft loop, upper control arms, adjustable front and rear lower control arms, rear lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable track bar with relocation kit, and 3 point sub-frame connectors. Any advise would be appreciated.
Silver Dragon thanks so much for your comments and questions! I would need to have the corner weights of the car before I could begin to make recommendations without giving you bad info. Sounds like you have installed some good parts to get you going in a great direction for sure! Do you have anyway to get the car weighed with scales? Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Can you get a cam only car with the correct suspension to hook up on a 315/35/17 toyo proxes tq tire on the rear? What would the different setting be compared to a slick? The car is also lowered, what would I need? I’m stock suspension right now but I plan on adjustable control arms, adjustable panhard bar, and adjustable torque arm, and I have non adjustable bilstein shocks for the rear. Should I go as extreme as to get frame connectors or shocks for the front of the car? Trying to get it to bite good on the street and track but it’s a daily driver. Right now it’s spinning till about 50 mph
CarGuyTim thanks so much for your question and info! I am pretty sure you will want to keep adding power and going quicker, so I would plan on doing the frame connectors and front shocks. You will need all the help you can get to try to plant the Toyo's for sure. I would also seriously recommend a set of double adjustable shocks on the rear as a first step. That will help you get some rear separation and independent compression settings to assist holding the separation. There is really no different setup for a street radial vs radial slick on the suspension. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Is there any chance you would give me starting shock settings on my 383(nitrous in 3rd and 4th), 6sp, 28x12.5 Drag Radial 4th gen Camaro? Im running Strange doubles in the front and singles in the back, and whether its in clockwise or counter direction from maxed. I have a full BMR adj suspension, besides LCAs and PH are from Spohn, down to rod end LCAs bc my rear is narrowed 8" and they have to triangulate. It dead hooks on street and doesnt wheel hop @ track, but 60's arent even close.
Nicholas Lee thanks so much for your questions! Usually clockwise will be stiffer for the C and R knobs. As far as helping, there are just so many variables involved that can and will impact your 60' times it is very hard to give advice in a YT comment. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
John Simmons thanks so much for your comments! Each car is unique, but depending on how much movement the bars have with rear end twist can change what is required. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
My madman TA drives me nuts. The TA is designed so as you adjust either pinion adjustment... it makes the mounting point at the rear end wider or narrower, causing binding if your not careful.
jamie roper thanks so much for your comments! The main goal was to inform other F Body owners about these details to keep things working together. The car now has a solid balanced baseline to go out and take hit then see what changes it needs next. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
HC Auto Glass thanks so much for your question. The lengths definitely vary depending on the chassis configuration. The key is ensuring the bars are not experiencing flex. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I pay alot of attention to all of your videos. Were using the latest Tim Mcammis 4 link bars that are 1 5/8 x .120 for the bottom and 1 1/2 x .120 on the top. We also have their CNC wishbone.
North Charleston, SC - samsonperformance.com or facebook.com/kevinwilsonsbc for more details. Any KevinWilsonSBC related inquiries please email samsalignmentsc@gmail.com instead of calling the shop. Thanks! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
dapena19 thanks so much for your question! I would start in this position for most cars then observe how the car reacts. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Arnulfo B thanks so much for your question! It worked amazing! It plants the slicks with some separation of the rear and gets on down the road. I have some video but I need to get permission to post it. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
SeanPerrin thanks so much for your comments! This car come to my shop with installation errors. So my reaction was like "Do what???" Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
The third generation F body Camaro Firebird is the biggest POS on the planet. Build Quality was terrible working on one is nightmare, half metric half standard nuts and bolts. two to one cat back exhaust system you can only go so far with. The Fuel injection on the 350 Iroc-z cars were nice but only auto trans was available for 5.7 motors. Two to one cat back Exhaust system is not what you want in your drag car. 180 horsepower V8 H.O. 305 5 speed Z28 car was slow but to this day one of the best handling cars ever made. The Iroc-z is an Iroc-z not a drag car ! It can but doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. Now these cars are 25 30 years old there hacked on crashed poorly fixed over heating paint chipped off still miserable to work on even bigger more Expensive money pit POS. But will always be one of the best handling sexiest looking cars ever .
Great teacher! Slow and patient while explaining things thoroughly!
Using all this gold your giving us to setup my 2000 Z28. Looking forward to getting back out to the track & seeing the improvements you've help me make, thanks Kevin!
Thanks so much for all your support of the channel! Please keep me posted on how the Z28 does!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I’m getting ready to install the BMR torque arm. Thank you for the information.
Marty Grajeda thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I had my bmr torque arm installed by a shop and the bolt fell off from the front any help than you.
I m not a drag guy. But I do believe this kind of attention to detail is invaluable to anyone wanting to go fast and be safe. Double check everything!
THANK YOU FOR THESE VIDEOS! I can’t even tell you how much I appreciate you teaching everyone these things. I have a Mustang with a torque arm and pan hard bar conversion. I’m assuming these F body videos would apply to tuning my suspension as well right?
Evan Cole thanks so much for your comments! You are correct. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Awesome video explaining how to correctly set up a torque arm FBody! And if drag racing, plz peeps do a short, frame mount arm. Your trans will thank you, long time. 💯💪🏽
Great video. Setting up my car for the Texas mile. Amazing content for education.
Work hard Play hard thanks so much for your kind comments! Keep me posted on how you do at the Texas mile!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC will do? Where are you located? Any experience with large shots of nitrous?
@@BeforeItsTooLate1 In Charleston, SC. I have not messed with any nitrous in all my years of racing. I just made the switch to a roots blower.
That's a great tutorial on f body suspension 👍.. my project 94 Pontiac Trans am is getting fully adjustable BMR suspension components.. I'm not building a drag car but more on 5he the street strip auto cross and car shows-meets when she's complete 👍
Kei lylmm thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks my friend 👍 happy holidays. Any good tips for my adjustable lower BMR control arms?
Great video!! Thank you for taking the time to make this video!!!!
Stan Sharples thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hello! I have a clunk clank I believe it’s the bmr because it’s missing parts maybe changed everything but that
Great video Im building an Fbody with Bmr suspension
David Widick thanks so much for your comments! You will see it works much better for sure!!Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Nice job Kevin. Great job explaining your thought process and adjustments.
Scott Nettell Racing thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Awesome video, my 2nd time watching and I’m getting real detail I just added tubular LCA, panhard bar and torque arm w trans mount. Feel like I can watch a few more videos and I’d be able to properly assess and perform on my car. I appreciate the intel 🏁🏁
Have full BMR Tubular K member upper and lower control arms, torque arm and adjustable rear lower control arms on my 97 T/A with all poly mounts and bushings am lucky enough to live in Tampa, close to where BMR is located so I did not have to pay shipping and had someone that worked there install it who has a side gig at night, for a very reasonable cost I know the job is done right! Like he said those solid mounts take some getting used to, but the car is solid as a rock!
Tim Sacco6g thanks so much for your comments! I am pretty sure you will be happy with the results!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
My car has all the good parts. When I turn the nitrous up, it wants to pull the wheels off the ground. At 35% hit its fine but even a little more like 50% it pulls the wheels about 2ft off the ground. Trying to make that stop. I have viking double adjustable all the way around, umi torque arm, umi adjustable lca and quick performance ford 9". 3400lbs. Using slicks Mt et drag 28x10.5.
On pinion angle are you negative or positive on those numbers.
What should the top adjuster be at for a lowered fbody daily?
Any videos on how to make a street car hook on the street on street summer tires?
wobbuffet thanks so much for your questions! I have that request a bunch so I am planning a video to cover some recommendations for that scenario. Stay Tuned! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC alright. Looking forward to it.
Great video👏👏👏
bighamz28 thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I’ve been chasing a serious vibration on a 4l80 swapped Fbody with all of the same components in this video. When you describe the 4* pinion angle, can you elaborate on how you measure to achieve this so I can try to replicate it? My current understanding is the difference in angle from the crankshaft and rear end.
Charles Reese thanks so much for your comments! Shoot me an email. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great content. Wish you guys were close to me to do fbody work on my car
maldo72 thanks so much for your comments! Thanks for your support! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I know I'm commenting on alot of videos but I just found your channel. In col ga we don't have much suspension shops for Ls but this video is helpful with my 2000 z28 Camaro grudge stock suspension car thanks an keep it up. Talk bout how much does the front suspension tweaking matters with getting the hole car to hook as a hole I'm very curious bout that. Ps wish you was closer I would pay you to get my car dailed in but more F body stuff please.
John Salary thanks so much for your comments on the various videos! No problem at all. I will definitely be doing a video about front end rise very soon. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thanks much
I have a vicious wheel hope on passenger rear on my 4th gen..completely stock. Any ideas where to start to fix this? Shocks is a good start im sure.
Pretty Fly 4A Wifi thanks for commenting. Go to samsonperformance.com and shoot me an email and I will respond. Go fast, go straight!
I have a 97 Z28 that is lowered with the t56 manual trans, S60 rear with lca relo brackets, non adjustable tubular lcas in lowest mounting holes, adjustable UMI torque arm and trans crossmember that moves the front torque arm mount off the transmission. Where should I start the front torque arm mount ( center, up one set of bolt holes or down one set of bolt holes) and how much pinion angle 3*, 4* or ? Looking to get the car to plant the tires under power, running 315x35x17 drag radials, thanks.
Dale Young thanks so much for your question! Radials.... go up. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you, what about pinion angle, 3*, 4* or what?
Good info 👍👍
Tomas Alvarado thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Whats the best way to measure pinion angle? I have fully adjustable suspension with a fab 9 and I've been fighting vibrations for years. Tried starting with torque arm setup like you described and angle was so negative I couldn't even get it to bolt up.
Sunburst_xmr thanks so much for your question! I have a video on this, but I am going to do a part 2 with more drawings and examples. For now checkout th-cam.com/video/YE7Rn93JnD8/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I been there done that, I replaced you can’t imagine how many things and ended up being my new billet Jakes performance torque converter
great video
Ed Buckley thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Can you talk about weight transfer for no prep/street racing? I got the 275pro working good at the track. Need help going to bad surfaces
nsboost thanks so much for your comments! I will have more no prep videos coming. Checkout the video on front suspension tuning. Good info in that one for street and no prep. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great info, although I can't believe whoever installed the BMR parts didn't know the setup was dangerous. They're lucky they didn't kill the owner of the car. When I upgrade to QA1 adjustable shocks I now have a starting point for the settings. What spring rate (front and rear) do you suggest for my 99 WS6 Trans Am? It has full UMI Suspension, adjustable torque arm ( relocated to the T56 cross member), driveshaft loop, upper control arms, adjustable front and rear lower control arms, rear lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable track bar with relocation kit, and 3 point sub-frame connectors. Any advise would be appreciated.
Silver Dragon thanks so much for your comments and questions! I would need to have the corner weights of the car before I could begin to make recommendations without giving you bad info. Sounds like you have installed some good parts to get you going in a great direction for sure! Do you have anyway to get the car weighed with scales? Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I will have to ask a few friends to see if they have scales I can use. I'll get back with you when I get it scaled. Thank you
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Can you get a cam only car with the correct suspension to hook up on a 315/35/17 toyo proxes tq tire on the rear? What would the different setting be compared to a slick? The car is also lowered, what would I need? I’m stock suspension right now but I plan on adjustable control arms, adjustable panhard bar, and adjustable torque arm, and I have non adjustable bilstein shocks for the rear. Should I go as extreme as to get frame connectors or shocks for the front of the car? Trying to get it to bite good on the street and track but it’s a daily driver. Right now it’s spinning till about 50 mph
CarGuyTim thanks so much for your question and info! I am pretty sure you will want to keep adding power and going quicker, so I would plan on doing the frame connectors and front shocks. You will need all the help you can get to try to plant the Toyo's for sure. I would also seriously recommend a set of double adjustable shocks on the rear as a first step. That will help you get some rear separation and independent compression settings to assist holding the separation. There is really no different setup for a street radial vs radial slick on the suspension. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks for the fast reply, what style shocks would you recommend for the front ?
@@carguytim9913 at least single adjustable but double if you have the budget. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Thx for the vid. How did it go?
Jamie Knight thanks so much for your comments! Car worked great. Happy customer. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Can I drop off my Camaro and a check?
Shoot me an email at samsalignmentsc@gmail.com if you are wanting us to check it out. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Is there any chance you would give me starting shock settings on my 383(nitrous in 3rd and 4th), 6sp, 28x12.5 Drag Radial 4th gen Camaro? Im running Strange doubles in the front and singles in the back, and whether its in clockwise or counter direction from maxed. I have a full BMR adj suspension, besides LCAs and PH are from Spohn, down to rod end LCAs bc my rear is narrowed 8" and they have to triangulate. It dead hooks on street and doesnt wheel hop @ track, but 60's arent even close.
Nicholas Lee thanks so much for your questions! Usually clockwise will be stiffer for the C and R knobs. As far as helping, there are just so many variables involved that can and will impact your 60' times it is very hard to give advice in a YT comment. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
It makes a lot of sense 👌🏼
M Mejia thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I thought a pinion angle of -1 is best for fbody
John Simmons thanks so much for your comments! Each car is unique, but depending on how much movement the bars have with rear end twist can change what is required. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
My madman TA drives me nuts. The TA is designed so as you adjust either pinion adjustment... it makes the mounting point at the rear end wider or narrower, causing binding if your not careful.
nsboost thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I need double adjustable shocks!
Stuart Buckley you will not regret going with DA shocks! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Dad told me you came by the shop! I am sorry I missed you.
@@KevinWilsonSBC when I know you are at the shop I will stop back to see you. I am really looking forward to meeting you.
Awesome 👏👏👏
D.A.M.K thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
You coul have shown the car kevin..anyway thanks again
jamie roper thanks so much for your comments! The main goal was to inform other F Body owners about these details to keep things working together. The car now has a solid balanced baseline to go out and take hit then see what changes it needs next. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
How long should the 4 link bars be? I have 4 link bars that are 26 and 3/4. Would it being that long cause me issues?
HC Auto Glass thanks so much for your question. The lengths definitely vary depending on the chassis configuration. The key is ensuring the bars are not experiencing flex. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks!
I pay alot of attention to all of your videos. Were using the latest Tim Mcammis 4 link bars that are 1 5/8 x .120 for the bottom and 1 1/2 x .120 on the top. We also have their CNC wishbone.
Where is your shop located?
North Charleston, SC - samsonperformance.com or facebook.com/kevinwilsonsbc for more details. Any KevinWilsonSBC related inquiries please email samsalignmentsc@gmail.com instead of calling the shop. Thanks! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Would you do anything different on a 26in drag radial car? Turbo 4l80
dapena19 thanks so much for your question! I would start in this position for most cars then observe how the car reacts. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks man...
When are you back at the shop..need to show you something..i can't find you on Fb
Send me a friend request sir
jamie roper shoot me an email at samsalignmentsc@gmail.com
Great info but how did it work ?
Arnulfo B thanks so much for your question! It worked amazing! It plants the slicks with some separation of the rear and gets on down the road. I have some video but I need to get permission to post it. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I just got a 3rd gen and this info will help a lot , thanks so much
0:07 someone did ding dong job. Simple as that, and that why it look like that. Lol
Kevin where are you located?
Located in Charleston SC! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Just off the freeway about a quarter mile ish
I have a brand new Race Craft K-member I would like to get rid of
Fast Nova thanks so much for your comments! Shoot me some pics at my shop email at samsalignmentsc@gmail.com Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
It’s just entertainment it’s like studio wrestling 😂
Jim Biddle thanks so much for your comments! Sometimes you just have to shake your head. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I don't understand the title of this video.
SeanPerrin thanks so much for your comments! This car come to my shop with installation errors. So my reaction was like "Do what???" Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
This guy talking about bench pressing a car like it’s nothing lmao , I need a lift for that lol
Noice pal
joe rocher thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
The third generation F body Camaro Firebird is the biggest POS on the planet. Build Quality was terrible working on one is nightmare, half metric half standard nuts and bolts. two to one cat back exhaust system you can only go so far with. The Fuel injection on the 350 Iroc-z cars were nice but only auto trans was available for 5.7 motors. Two to one cat back Exhaust system is not what you want in your drag car. 180 horsepower V8 H.O. 305 5 speed Z28 car was slow but to this day one of the best handling cars ever made. The Iroc-z is an Iroc-z not a drag car ! It can but doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. Now these cars are 25 30 years old there hacked on crashed poorly fixed over heating paint chipped off still miserable to work on even bigger more Expensive money pit POS. But will always be one of the best handling sexiest looking cars ever .
Go away dude find somewhere else to rant your feelings. Your about to catch a stroke in your fingertips 😂😂😂
Meila Corbett thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!