How to Flatten a Bench Top or Any Slab With Only Hand Tools
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Sarah's Bench Project: • Sarah's Builds and More
Flattening my bench: • How to Flatten a bench...
Flattening a Slab or other wide piece of wood with hand tools can be difficult but with the right method, it can be a lot of fun. today I want to look at flattening a bench using just hand tools.
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I'm starting the process of redoing my bench and step one is flattening the boards of the bench top. Thank you for giving a step by step process
I feel like using a right angle old-fashioned big metal square and going off one long edge of the table. Then take a pencil and mark the high areas of the slab going along with the too edge would be a good way to indicate high spots as well.
I remember being amazed the first time I flattened a severely twisted board with a scrub plane by doing the 45° thing both directions. It was like magic how the board managed to be flat afterwards. I thought I'd discovered the answer to life, the universe, and everything. I still don't quite understand why it works so well, but it does.
Why does it work? It’s simple really. The reason it works is 42.
@@coldwoodcowboy4525 Now that’s funny.....and always carry a towel.
@@DonsWoodies So long and thanks for all the fish.
This sounds REALLY familiar. :)
Should I be able to do the same things with a regular #5 plane (the only plane I own)? I can't decide if my technique sucks, or my plane sucks or my plan blade is dull, but I keep binding and can't plane across my workbench to get it flat.
Fun but frustrating hobby so far...
This was, by far, the most helpful and easiest to follow hand plane guide I've found. Thanks so much!!
🎶 Flat bottom bench you make the woodworkin' go 'round... 🎶
So basically do anything possible to get it to not twist because that looks like a b.
Great real-life content as always. For some reason I've not seen any of your videos for a while, despite having subscibed. So I've re-subscibed. BIG thanks.
Your bench levelling tutorial was spot-on; have just retired and am looking to reinvent myself. Built a Paul Sellers workbench a while back and have restored lots of old hand tools. The bench top now needs some serious TLC, so your video hit the spot. Know that you are loved and respected. Sincere thanks.
Great step by step introductory explanation, thank you. I would enjoy that much more a month ago when I was flattening my own bench top. I figured out and flattened that with help from your old video, though. But next time I want no 7 rather than just no 4 :)
Never thought working on a flat bottom would be nice.
@@papitas6061 as long as there are no cracks in it
Ahhh you just gotta make the most of it, that’s all some of us get to work on!!
How many times did you have to sharpen your plane irons during this operation?
None. The scrub planes I let them get incredibly dull. They don't need to be razor sharp. I usually sharpen those once a year or so. If this bench were maple I probably would sharpen at the end but I wouldn't have to sharpen in between.
An incredibly informative video! I loved the detail and process points. Showing the work was very helpful as well along with the choices of planes as you went through. Thanks so much!
Well presented. As you get happy chopping mortices I really enjoy flattening tops. Really kinda odd given my lack of stamina but planing a top is restful to me, perhaps because I'm not concerned with screwing it up
James, really enjoyed this. When you did the long shot with the winding sticks I started to look downwards to line them up - too long in lockdown I think.
:) 😂
I bought my first hand plane. Started with a twisted board like this. Much smaller however. My goal in life is now to get this board flat. lol. This video has helped me realize what I need to do. Thank you.
Something really special about working with a hand plane.
What did you need to do?
Thanks James! Monumentally helpful before i begin to flatten the 2 slabs of my roubo in progress. Tip of the hat, sir!
what if you only have a no 4 plane (custom from veritas though!)
that is what I use for my smoother. you can do it all with the one it just takes longer. just remember. only hit the high spots.
how long did this ACTUALLY take? Yes, you can give 2 answers. With and without filming and commentating. Thanks!
This one with the filming was about 40 minutes. If I were just to do it without the filming on this one probably about 30 minutes. However this bench top is popular so it is pretty easy to work with. This size and white oak would probably take me around 45 to 50 minutes
Fantastic work, James! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
For a woodworking bench, I flatten untill I am happy with the results. Which usually is not completely flat. I always have a very large granite slab on the side of my bench. I use this as reference when I need a flat reference.
I guess it would take longer than using the various planes you used but it’s still possible to flatten a bench with a 5 1/2 jack plane, right?
Sure. Others just make it a bit easier.
Making me tired just watching
It was my first top that I learned from an old neighbor that taught a lot about hand planes and sharpening irons. Long before TH-cam. I bought the SYP on a Wednesday and cut and glued up that weekend and a week later it looked like the lumber was glued up wet. Warped and cupped like crazy. It was a learning experience for me. I screwed it up when I drilled the dog holes by not using a sharp bit. I could have done a better job with a spoon for those holes.
Yes, yes, yes. Just what I needed. In the process of flattening my daughter's workbench and building a dual slab workbench for my dad.. The slabs have me sweat just by looking at them(6" thick"
Oh. That sounds like a fun bench.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo The man deserves everything I can make for him. It is going to be made of eucalyptus (blue gum) and sit outside. So I'm trying to come up with a way to make it without glue.. Thinking of making a split top roubo
Great video!!! I'm new to hand tools but I'm so happy to know that i have flatten surfaces exactly as you, with the time i have started to trust my no5 and 6 ,the way of sound and the thickness and amount of shavings, when to stop and continue... For a winding sticks i am using 60 cm levelers made of straight aluminium alloy and for straight edge i am using 100 cm leveler ( also the same alloy and company). So glad seeing you working im on the right track!!! Thanks
Winding sticks, my arch nemesis!
I think there's a t-shirt in there somewhere.
When you're using winding sticks, an arch is your nemesis.
@@alans1816 yeeeeees
Found out today it’s mine also lol 😂
The most comprehensive video on the subject I've seen! Thanks James. Little question if you ever get to reading this: Could one still achieve a decent flat base for a workbench only with a #4, and a #5.5? Or is the #7 a must as well?
Thanks. You can do it with smaller planes but you will wand a good straight edge to chack for flat.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo oh wow, I'm grateful you replied so quickly James ! thank you very much for the helpful tip :)
Nice treatment of thIs subject. I’ve watched several videos on this topic, but yours is the most detailed explanation yet.
Thanks.
@woodbywrighthowto I got a hairbrained project I want to do. I need to make countertops and I have sheets of 2in marine plywood. The layers are the most beautiful blues and greens which will work perfectly in this beach side kinda hippy dippy theme i have going. They were warehouse storage shelves and they are 5x5. After cutting them basically in half, I could just use them flat. Easy peasy, but the layers would be invisible. 😢 I could turn them into butcher block, but that would be a harrowing amount of work getting them cut into strips 😮...I could use a skillsaw to avoid the lifting, but it's still a chore and also the effect will be really busy because of how many stripes would be visible.
So I came up with this idea, and I kinda understand the geometry but have no idea how to get it planed out. Each ply is about 1/4in and it's 2in thick...about 8 layers. So if I could plane it off at an angle over a width of 30 inches, all 8 layers would gently emerge, and after I did the reverse side, id have a 1 inch thick counter top on a bias to the original. id cut it down to 28in standard width wide. Lovely, but is it possible?? Is there equipment to do this kind of out of the ordinary milling? I don't mind taking them to someone to do the milling if I have the vocabulary to ask for what I am wanting. There's a couple of schools and specialty carpenters in my area so if you can just give me a clue if this is any kind of reasonable concept and the vocabulary woodworkers would recognize, it would help me a lot
How do you make sure the bench bottom plane is parallel to the other side?
There is nothing that says that it has to be. But once you get one side flat level and true then you use a marking gauge and Mark all the way around the perimeter up however far you want to flatten the other side too and then you just bring the other side down to those marking gauge lines
You are an inspiration!
So if I have a 5” thick bench and I have to flatten it every 6 months how many years before my bench is 4” thick??? Jk I really don’t need to know, this video is going to come in handy soon
Lol the average benchtop should be flattened about once every decade.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo oh I was making a bad joke, but it’s nice to know that it should only be flattened once a decade
Just watched this again and I have to compliment you on some amazing Seal flipper action near the end of the vid...amazing - perhaps even better than my attempts to mimmick a gliding Buzzard when expressing a long board.
Wow! Thanks for this video. Your explanations of how and why were the best I have seen so far. Good job!
I only have a no. 4. Is there any way for me to flatten rough lumber?
Sure. You can do the same thing here. It just takes a bit longer and you need a straight edge to check for flat.
I just finished my workbench table top and now I’m flatting it out so this video is perfect
Really helpful walk through James! Thanks. Any tips on how to make a straight edge without a #7? Would my low angle jack be long enough?
I actually have a couple videos on jointing without a drinking plane. What you do is first off eyeball that it's straight. Then set it down on a flat surface and draw a line along the edge. Flip the board over and you'll be able to see any differences where it is high or low. And then you can just hit the high spots with the number four or whatever plane you have. Then test it again.
I really need to make some winding sticks and a scrub plane
I used old mahogany baseboards. Dead parallel. I added some black paint squares to the top edge for visible contrast. I put some little tiny screws in the center to visually find the middle of the sticks. Oh, yeah! I glued two similar base boards back to back so they wouldn't fall over!
Great timing with this video! I’m flattening a laminated pine top right now and I have the same issues with twist and then fun that comes along with it. I noticed your straight edge was the perfect size for the bench. What would you use on a longer bench, say 7 feet?
On a longer bench I would then do another strip in the middle that would then be coplanar with either end.
That was a really good explanation of the process. I have a garden tabletop to finish, and I was clueless about how to flatten a large area.
Comment down below!
Sarah is a clever girl how do I get James to do this for me ahh “you could make a video on how to flatten a workbench “win win in my book 😂
That looked like a good workout.. I love hard work, could watch it all day. 😊
Been trying to flatten some old planks for the past few days with one of those hand electrical planes.
As a newbie, this was frankly a nightmare although I did learn from it. These electrical things give you no feel nor precision and simply are not made for flattening.
Now the planks are glued together and it's still far from straight, so now I'll have to flatten the top as a whole again.
This video I think will help, I also saw you run into the same problems as me and fixing them the same way so that gives me some confidence!
By the way, it's been your channel along with Wood and Shop and an old Dutch manual for wood working that gave me the confidence to get started with this, my first woodworking project.
Also I made really shitty winding sticks with your help, they are only the same height but fucking in every way elsewise. But as you said, as long as I use them 'right' it actually works.
Does everything that a good workbench should. Fold and unfolds with ease! Clamps are sturdy and easy to use. ++++!
I had to re-surface my bench awhile back. Used this method to do it. It wasn't as flat as it should have been from the beginning. I got inspired to do it by watching Rob Cosman re-surface his bench. What might one do differently during glue up to avoid introducing so much twist into the bench?
Generally the best thing is when doing glue up either do it in sections so you have time to check it or do it with an epoxy. That would give you more time to work on it and check in between.
You can use a flat clamping surface on top of the glue up but need to ensure that the glue up is sitting on a flat surface as well.
Wood slides on glued surfaces when you put pressure from both ends. I have Jigs that allow me to clamp in all directions and allow a flat surface to act as reference. You then have to watch that such references are not glued to the surface as glue pushes up from the clamping.
Now you can use paper such as non stick oven paper to act as a barrier between the clamp/reference surface and glue up.
Even with this you will still need to plane down to get completely flat but it can help to reduce twisting with the glue up and board tension.
Well, I would have to take several bench tops similar to yours and turn them into shavings before I really know what is going on with my tools. One question. I have one of the 'saw tooth' type of blades from Lie Neilson, and love it more than my scrub plane. It is mounted in my low angle jack plane. It is just easier to push through the wood than the scrub plane. I am wondering if you have tried them and what you think of them. I do have an 'extra' #5 plane that I should probably convert to a scrub plane like your #5 with a much more shallow arc in the curve of the blade. I do 'have' to experiment...... I might even get one similar for my #8........
I think you are talking about a toothing plane iron,? Those are easier to push but they are only removing half the material of a normal iron
@@WoodByWrightHowTo That probably is the correct name. I am just working on small pieces for now, and they are handy. For sure, I need more practice.
Glad you managed to get to the bottom of this 😁
Commenting below
During the flattening process, did you have to stop to sharpen?
no. this is poplar and you can go a wile before you need that and the scrub plane can go a LONG time before it needs work. I usually only sharpen my scrub once a year or so. but the jointer plane would need a sharpening at the beginning and then after. that one needs to be kept sharper as it is taking finer shavings.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks.
What type of wood did you use for the bench top?
What were the length and width dimensions of the bench top?
How many hours did the flattening take?
I was given a "basement bar" top made by someone by nailing, screwing and bradding together warped 2x4's of maybe some doug fir, but maybe all white wood... a wood so poor it doesn't even have a name, it is only known by its color, but it is about as stiff as a styrofoam cooler lid... a styro cooler lid absolutely filled with knots. He then poured some type of really hard crystal resin over the "bar" to laminate the boards and get a flat top. The boards themselves have up to 1/8th inch gaps between them as there were inexplicable wood chips between the boards when he nailed the 2x4's together. Net result is there is this crystal resin in between the 2x4's, at varying widths.
I'm disabled, not collecting disability, so am poor. I was given a little Sargent No. 4 hand plane, in truly derelict condition, by a widow whom I was buying a couple old beat up Delta sanders from on Super Bowel Sunday, as all the extremely price sensitive tool scavengers in this town were firmly parked on the couch, allowing me this rare opportunity to actually purchase barely working tools at near new price!
I was over the moon about the plane until I tried to restore it, having no real knowledge of how hand planes work. I watched some videos, and went at it with very marginal success. The Sargent No. 4 wasn't built during the hey day, but well after, so new, it had the attributes of human solid waste, but after 50 years of abuse and neglect, it is in quite a state. The knob is split with half the round base missing. The tote is split in two in its crotch. The chip breaker is twisted, so doesn't lie flat on the bit, and the bit itself is mushroomed and curved, not to mention the corners of the flat, not the bevel, were sanded down so the chip breaker has no chance of firmly contacting the bit (even if it were straight). I literally thought this was some unique Sargent design, a curved bit, it is flattened by the frog but above that it is bent down towards the tote top, and somewhat twisted. Of course, after actually using this plane and actually learning how planes are supposed to work, I deduced the bit had been hammered into various positions, thus the bending, twisting, and mushrooming at the top... of course the adjustment wheel had no describable effect on the blade depth, and about four or five full turns of slop before it pretended to adjust the blade depth. The lateral adjuster, likewise, was impotent and caused no lateral adjustment, not that it itself could actually significantly move laterally, being jammed in place by the bent downward and mushroomed bit. Also, the mouth is about as wide and distorted as Jaws 14, after all my work on this plane, this seems to be the one thing that I can't really fix, absent welding cast iron, which I'm not sure is a thing, nor do I have any welding tools. Also, the cheeks, or whatever the side perpendicular plates of the plane are called, each appear to be out of square.
I used this plane on the above "bar" in an attempt to make a workbench surface for myself by removing the 1/8th to 1/4qtr inch thick crystal resin from the top and sides of the lumpy 2x4's, that 50% of the time adhered to the spongy 2x4's and thus ripped chunks of the wood out with the resin as my misshapen bit floating loose in my plane's cavernous gullet occasionally caught into the resin. I was so excited that I might actually have a workbench surface, I planed for 4 hours, filled three trash bags of crystal resin shards, wood chunks, splinters and shards, until I could no longer move my arms. It was 3am and I went to bed soaking wet with sweat, but didn't sleep a wink, as I'm a side sleeper, absolutely cannot sleep on my back, so each time I tried to roll onto my side, my shoulder burned even brighter until I couldn't take the pain, so rolled onto the other side and that shoulder would go from yellow hot to searing white... what a night.
After several days of this insane planing, scattered over about a month and a half (allowing me to regain the use of my arms in between), I almost have the top and bottom flattened, though with catastrophic tear out throughout both top and bottom and high and low spots I'm going to have to just accept.
A neighbor moved out next door and left me several 2x4's and a few 2x6's that were scrap from a construction site, they're either sun and rain worn into checked, split and splintery grey nail and screw hole filled tetanus farms, or they're covered with concrete, as they appear to have been used in creating forms for poured concrete. Also, some of them seem to have been dipped in either hydraulic oil, used motor oil, or perhaps automatic transmission fluid, can't say, oh, and one appears to be partially burnt. They vary in length from about 4 feet to 6 inches. I'll use these to build the legs, and cross stabilizers.
The take away from this screed is timber prices are too damn high!
Can you imagine going through this when dry straight doug fir 8 foot 2x4's were $3 each, and not $12 each?
This benchtop was made out of poplar. I have plans available on the website if you want to see exact dimensions of all of it. The actual flattening of this one was about 25 minutes.
Things that would be helpful. (I know every project different). Timer: Show rough time spent each step, and total time. (A 21 min video - does not express effort needed). Also many of video makers stress sharp tools. Well how often did you stop and sharpen each type of plane? Some more then others? Flatter (smother), verses high spots (scrub)? As always - the info you share is of great value - thank you.
That would have been good mention if I remembered it. All told this took me about 45 minutes. And I didn't sharpen the planes at all during the process. The scrub plane I only sharpen about once a year that does not need to be incredibly sharp unless you want a perfectly smooth surface from it.
This is why wood workers don't have or need gym memberships. Great, detailed video!
James I really enjoyed watching this video. While I’ve flattened a surfaces before your process would have saved me time. I definitely will be tweaking my process. I was going to ask if the bottom is now the top but you answered that :)
What do you do about knots with the hand planer? I used one for the first time and the knot damaged my brand new blade.
If the knot is damaging the plan that usually means you're trying to take too big of a bite. Or it could mean that your blade was improperly tempered.
Amazing video. So perfectly explained for me. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thanks, perfect timing on this. I am finishing up the mortise and tenons and almost to assembly on my bench. I flattened the tops but I know they are going to need some work once assembled.
THE UNDERSIDE????
Thanks for sharing that, hard work!
Hello James! As you have a jointer plane, is there a reason not to use it?
Some times it is heavy and you want an easier plane. But most of the time it is the tool for the job.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you very much for your answer!
Very informative and extremely useful. Thanks.
Great video, as always, James. Since I don’t presently have a scrub plane, can I convert a #5 into one? Should I enlarge the mouth? Many thanks.
It depends on how far back you can move the frog. I actually have a video showing how to turn a number 5 into a scrub plane. It's a bit old but still has all the information.
Hi James, really liked watching this video. There is only one question... How long does it take, to flatten a board or slab, when you're going "flat out"
LOL I like this one. this benchtop would take me around 30-40 minutes. but it depends on how out of flat it is.
If you have cupped/bowed boards would you flatten them individually before gluing to make a wider board or glue up and then flatten the whole thing?
It depends on how cupped or bold they are. If you can clamp it out with a moderate amount of pressure then I would just go ahead and glue and clamp them flat. However if it takes a lot of pressure to clamp them flat then I would flatten them first before gluing them up.
Thanks mate, really enjoyed that.
its taken me ages... but I am nearly on this stage on my bench ... will glue and bolt a big pine 8 by 4 to the already 1.5 inch top.... needs all sides flat tho !.. anyways thanks for your help in the process.... you always responded fast!... i want to send a photo of it to you haha!!
Looking forward to seeing it!
Butt I thought flat bottoms went out with the 80s?
P.S. Does Sarah know you're working on her bench, without her? Ooooo, you're gonna be in trouble, if she doesn't. LOL she may beat your bottom. 😉
Don't tell her.
WbW would you recommend converting something more like a number 4 or 5 to a scrub plane? Or should I go for something more like a 6? Or does it not really matter much? I feel the smaller planes are easier to handle and less taxing/faster, but the larger ones have a larger flat reference surfaces.
Generally I like number four as a scrub plane and a number five as a four plane.But in the end it's a very personal choice.
Great video thanks. This is a project I want to start but currently only have a No 4 to work with. How many times did you have to stop to sharpen your irons? I’m still working on that skill. Takes me a long time.
You could do this all with a number four. It'll just take a little bit longer. and you'll have to check more often to make sure that it is flat and straight as the plane won't tell you that. That's the bonus of having a longer plane. this bench is made of poplar so it isn't that hard on the irons. I didn't have to sharpen it all for this one. If the bench were maple I may end up sharpening ones at the very end but that's about it.
My cat is curious... about how much wood gets planed off doing the flattening of a glue-up like that?
This is about the worst possible case. Most of the time it's only an eighth inch or so. In this case it was about 3/16 to a quarter across the whole surface.
This video is timely to what I am doing. I used a #4 plane for the second time to flatten the top of my 2x4 low roman workbench. I didn't get far. I have already attached the legs and am planing after using a Japanese saw to hack off most of the parts of the legs sticking out of the top. There's a bunch of glue and I think the plane blade is slipping up when it hits too much glue .. I need to watch my progress. Videos like this help me progress. With mortice and tenon legs, it seems efficient to level the top after the legs are installed.
You can try and clean some of the thicker glue with a chisel by running it across the surface as a guide.
What might be happening is that you are hitting long flat sections of glue.
Thanks. Very instructive video. I plan to build a new workbench top later this year and this will come in handy.
Quick question - When you glued up the slab, did you take care to make sure the grain in each board was running in the same direction?
Not with this one. There were so many where the grain switched direction that it was impossible. But if it were strait grain it would be worth it.
How do you keep the two planes (surfaces) parallel? The top and bottom could both be flat, but not be parallel. Or is this not a concern?
Generally you flatten one of the two surfaces and then you use a marking gauge to go around the bench putting a line down from the top and then you plane everything down to that line. However it's not really important that the two surfaces be parallel
What are your thoughts of 50 and 55 degree angle frogs for the no. 7 ? Or will at standard 45 degree work just fine?
For a number seven I would not mess with it. Now if we're talking about a fine smoother having a little higher bed angle I have found to be very useful. It requires a little more force to push however it does a lot better on difficult wood grain.
Thanks alot. This was helpful
An L-N Jack plane is as long as I have, I guess I'm screwed!
that is all you need. longer is just easer.
I came here to find out how to flatten a table top bottom parallel to the top. The last 2 min answered my question, so I learned two new methods for flattening. Thanks!
Seems whichever is flat, the top or the bottom, is the reference surface that you use a mortise or cutting gauge against to scribe a line all the way around all four edge's of the 2 sides & 2 ends next to the un-flat surface at the thickness you want. After that its a matter of taking everything down to evenly match the line in all directions.
Now show how you flatten the top and make sure you get it coplanar with just hand tools.
Once you have one side done just use a marking gauge and mark all the way around at a specific step down. Then playing the other side to that marking gauge line.
WbW, do winding sticks need to be offset in thickness/height? I noticed you're using what looks like a milled two by 6 and a milled two by 4.. I've been using square aluminium tune stock from home depot, which are quite reliably flat, and but I've been using two of the same dimensions.
No babe you can make them any dimension you want. As long as the two sides are parallel on both you're good to go.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks. You might want to fix that typo though lol. I mean I like your show and all but.... ROFL
Looks like you need a set of those fancy French Winding Sticks. Rex did a set a few weeks back.
Roubo winding sticks was what he called them I think.
Great teaching video thanks
That original lumber was very badly warped when glued together. Is there any way to glue up that isn't twisted & warped when glue sets? I'm guessing clamp cauls across width & lengthwise clamp go flat surface.
the lumber was fine all of the laminations just twisted just before being set. that is the downside to trying to do it with a PVA all in one glue-up. there was not enough time to straiten them once clamped. it was already setting. if we used epoxy or did it in several glue-ups it would be much better.
I used to have similar problem gluing mosaic/inlay tiles onto A4 ply, hour after gluing the ply would cup badly. I had to sandwich press under a weight to flatten before glue set.
Still quite new at this. But what wood would you make a straight edge out of so it wont warp too fast?
It has less to do with the type of wood than the grain of the wood. You want the grain to be nice and straight. The straighter the better. The type of wood would come into decisions about how durable it would be. The harder the wood you find the less prone it is to being dinged and scratched. But as to stability for warping that is just how straight the grain is and the humidity changes in your shop.
How to fix a warped painted desk?
This is why I have a 22” planer 🤣
How long did it take you?
This one was about 40 minutes or so. But it was out of poplar. So it's a bit faster than oak or other bench tops.
Beautiful lesson, thanks!
My only suggestion is to drop the scrub plane and use a 6 with a camber instead of the 5. The added weight will help shove through those trouble spots and the wider mouth will mean fewer passes. A scrub can cause as many problems as it fixes and the longer sole of the six means less work with the jointer.
I know a lot of people that like that. Personally I don't like the weight of the six. It just tends to be a little bit more annoying. If I want that I'm usually going to bump up to a seven or an eight. But again very personal preference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo There's your next video. Flatten one side of a board with a 6 and the other with a 40 and 5 combo and tell us which is the better way. :)
Glue squeeze out too hard?
Scrub plane: hold my banana.
It is most definitely the tool for the job.
great looking #7
but what if you only have a #4?
Then you just use the #4 and check with the strait edge more often. the #7 will only hit the high spots so you do nto need to check for flat as much, but with the #4 you need to check more often and make sure you are only hitting the high spots as it will still take shavings from the slow spots.
That’s one smooth bottom
thank you for that info.
Good stuff James. Not sure I would have the stamina to do this in a day though. Also I don't have a scrub plane but I will improvise. Thanks again and keep on smiling.
My first couple scrub planes were remade cheap Stanley number fives or junk number fours.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks, still looking for them and waiting for someplace to have a sale.
That was gnarly...how long did that take you to plane?
this was about 40 minutes with the video work. without that I could probably do this one in around 30 minutes.
Despite attempting to have the grain running in the same direction with a new bench, sometimes grain changes mid stream in 1 or 2 boards, and tear out occurs. Or sometimes you think you have selected the perfect grain direction, but mistakenly reversed 1 or 2 boards in the glue-up. If you plane boards in the bench, tear out occurs in adjacent boards (grained direction wrong) etc. Whats the possible/best course of action. Cheers.
That's why I do a lot of going 45 degrees across the board. You're not going to get as much tear out that way but then I'll come in with a finely set smoothing plane that can go against the grain. if you don't want to see some videos on that I have several videos on how to set up a smoothing plane. If push comes to sub then getting a card scraper to clean up those few spots with tear out.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo So that's why -- I was wondering why you traversed with the smoother. I think of traversing as helping with flattening because it tends to straighten in the planing direction, so planing various directions tends to flatten. But that's completed before smoothing.
Yep. You can traverse with a smoother on difficult grain and get really close to smooth. Then set up the plane with a very tight setting for smoothing and then you can go against the grain.
Beautifully done.
Is it healthy to sleep naked?
One thing comes to mind for my new bench; I know that only the sections where the leg frames come into contact have to be level and straight but I have also figured out that if fitting a drawer, then it also helps to have a flat section for that too because it will avoid the top of the drawer snagging on the underside of the bench (it could be avoided by reducing the internal height of the drawer but I think flattening the underside of the top in that area would be better). Also, if fitting an end vice, that area also needs to be levelled. I've come to the conclusion that because I will be doing all of that, I may as well just level and flatten the whole underside - the topside is already done, so referencing off that would be the quickest way to go, probably.
You have ensured that surface is flat and smooth but how to do you get it parallel with the surface on the other side??
Generally you flatten the top first. You get it flat and true and then you use a marking gauge to mark down all the way around. then you can flip it over and just plain it down to that marking gauge line. But to be honest the top and bottom do not need to be parallel. The small inconsistency in parallel between them would not make any difference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you so much for your timely reply!
Does this work well with endgrain and or hardwood?
yes. this bench is a hard wood, but Poplar is a softer hard wood. the same method would work on any wood. end grain is more difficult. for that you generally want to use a low angle plane as that is better at slicing, but in that case I would probably go with a router flattening jig. it would be much faster.
Nice work.