Too me it looks like someone took a table that didn’t have a drawer and put one in. They used the apron for the drawer front and the rail. Nice work Scott.
I personally prefer a conservative approach to restoration, but if you know keeping a flaw will cause the piece to break, I think it's best to make the modification to keep it functional for the longest possible time. Thanks for the great video!
It’s such a beautiful table. To fix it to cure the problem is the way to go. The small metal clips are totally concealed. It would appear that someone added the drawer so originality is gone anyway. I say you fixed it for another 100 years use. Great job. I think the original builder would like it.
I have a few years on you and no longer run a stripping/refinishing shop. It's rewarding to watch you and listen to your soothing delivery and earnest mannerisms-thank you for your humble representation of a group of craftspeople I fear are not being often replaced Having had draft horses for years , I often used mane or tail hairs where you use floss.If one broke the color of the remaining hair was mostly undetectable.
I have a good technique for clamping up the table top that would avoid all the hassles. I have three long pieces that I've ripped into triangles, roughly 20-30 degrees. Then using cauls like you have on the bottom, I run some soft twine in figure 8s around the cauls and loosely across the top. Slide in the triangle wedges (also covered with packing tape and rounded over the top edges) into the figure 8s, alternating directions. Gently tap the wedges to tighten the twine. This will both keep the boards flat and pull them together. This works great for very thin pieces but would also work fine for your table top. This was a featured tip that I submitted to Wood Magazine a couple of years ago.
Make the changes, and make it last. The next craftsman who repairs this in 2217 or so, will appreciate your approach when he delves into the archeology of the table.
This is probably one of the most helpful videos in your arsenal - adding it to my "fav" file. Allowing for wood movement is something current restorers (furniture flippers) aren't taking into account, leaving pieces at risk of splitting. Glad you focus on this - it is such helpful info! After restoring a Japanese Tansu - and over 150 wooden nails/pegs - I've become a fan of no nails... and will now use wooden peg repair whenever possible. Love the tip with the magnet!!!!! Why didn't I think of that? :)
Hello there. I really enjoy your channel and have learned a lot. I recently got into repairing furniture myself after I retired from full-time work. I am repairing/modifying some chairs for a customer and have learned a lot by doing this. Mostly better and more efficient ways of doing things. I am on a limited budge since I am starting out so I have to manufacture thing that most people buy. These chairs (they are like dining room table chairs) had a webbed back which was old and torn. The customer said their son (who is grown) would be using them and he is a big guy. The customer did not want to have the webbing back in the chairs. I told them the best and strongest way to fix this would be to replace the wedding with rails. The chairs were to have three verical rails to replace the webbing in the back. One was the top and bottom rail that the vitical rails would attach to had two different radiuses. I ran into many challanges I had to sovle in doing this. So I made a jig to bend (warp) the two outside rail to match the two different radiuses. So far this has worked very slick. I also made a jig to old the veritical rails to drill two dowel holes in them. I had an off the shelf dowel hole centering tool but it did not work very well. My setup that I built worked much better and was much faster. Especially since I had 72 holes to drill. One trick I learn from your friend over at "Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration" was when I was pulling off the top rail of the chairs, I used heat to soften the glue in the rail joint to keep from breaking either the top or side rail in disassembly. Great videos! Keep up the good work!
Scott: There is a wonderful continutity to all your repairs. Each piece of furniture is different requiring diffeent tecnhiques. What is constant is you deliberate, gentle actions with doing any opertaion. You have NEVER hurried. You take the time it takes to do the process correctly. Watching for years, I have gotten this one truism about your work.
Glue blocks under the top at the front and back would be consistent with period techniques & would allow for some movement of the top Small diameter dowels I use to secure the drawer runners instead of pin nails with the large head which are not period fasteners, the dowels would not interfere with the tenon pegs they would easily glue/bond to them if you end up in contact with them I like to still take apart the dovetail drawer joints to remove the nails, it’s extremely rare that I can not get one apart, I sometimes try & remove the nails first, then tap the joint fully apart Appreciate your videos
Nicely done. My approach to most antiques that need modified is similar to what Jay Leno does with vintage cars; make improvements that they should’ve or would’ve done at the time if they’d known about them or had the materials or tools. Also, it depends on the intervention of the fate of the piece. I refinished a piece that needed extensive repair but without it the piece would have been thrown in the trash.
I like videos where I learn something I can use immediately. I have a Hoosier cupboard I need to fix the drawer slides, one of them is only half there and they are all loose. Also I have an old kitchen table that the top is split. The table isn’t an antique it’s just old, it was my grandmas kitchen/work table from when they lived in the basement while grampa built the house so it’s more sentimental for me but I want to fix it right this time.
I've been looking for a solution to reattach a wooden tabletop that my grandfather and I made for years. You just gave me the solution with those Figure 8 clips. Thanks for the tip and installation guide.
If using crosshead screws in awkward places you can superglue the screw to the tip of the screwdriver. It's just enough to get the screw started but easy to break loose.
This is very interesting to me, even though I don’t repair furniture - sort of. I make furniture, but in the process of making furniture sometimes I make mistakes. Which means I have to repair the mistake so, like I said, very interesting.
With experience, one acquires intellectual knowledge, and is how the use of dental floss to glue tight cracks, a story stick to level legs, and a piece of veneer to add a bit of height to a drawer channel are used so ingeniously, thank you Scott for sharing your expertise!
I go with using some modern fixes to prevent further damage in the future. Great job by the way! I’m glad I live in dry southern Alberta where the humidity doesn’t affect our furniture as much. Biggest problem is antiques are hard to come by. We have collectibles. Most of ours are from late 1800s to 1950s. If you are rich or a founding family, they have many antiques.
The vernacular I’m familiar with has an “antique” to be something a century old with something notably older termed an “heirloom” (though especially something passed on down a family).
Very enjoyable! Wood is beautiful for furniture. It looked like there was a wood strip originally on the end grain of the top. At 27:30 it looked like the new rail was about 3/16” low in the back with the drawer pushed in.
holy crap !!!! i'm impressed!!!!!! i would love to have teach this in my group on face book. if you're interested in doing that. great work clear concise video .. Great instructions. you sir are a credit to this trade.
IMO, there's nothing wrong with modification of a piece, in the name of preservation. As long as the modification can be done in such a way, that it isn't immediately noticeable. Also, as long as the modification does indeed improve the piece- like what you're doing with the top. You're using a modern method to secure the top, but it allows the wood to do it's thing. EDIT: That dental floss trick is AWESOME!!! Thank you!!
Every serious furniture restorer is faced with questions of replacing or fixing timber parts that are compromised in some way, important furniture can sometimes warrant a creative approach in order to retain originality but it is never easy or clear cut how to proceed. It can be very time consuming in order to save structural features and finishes.
My feeling about antiques is you want to preserve the appearence as much as possible. Making a modification to help it last longer is great so long as it doesn't alter the appearence of the item.
36:00 maybe it would be cool to have two laser levels set up on the X and Y dimensions of the bench to show lines on things like legs when they aren't level
What genius way to open a crack! But wouldn't gluing the tongue-and-groove boards be the same as nailing them together so they don't move? (You can tell I'm not a real woodworker) Beautiful job!
I have a similar table made out of walnut with a two drawers on the front. My was probably made in weatern Switzerland. The tabletop is held on with four pegs, and it also developed cracks. I wonder if people used to commonly attach tabletops that way?
Why not use fine finish btad cut nails from Tremont for a more period correct restoration? I've found them to be very strong in use and by design, not likely to split end or face grain... especially if pre drilled with 1/16 in. drill bit and glued at joining surfaces.
Wonderful! 2 questions; why don’t everybody use reversabel hide glue? I find it difficult to start sawing (trembling hands). Could I use the chisel to mark the line? Thanks!😊
I have a small kitchen table that’s about 100 years old that is painted. The top is cupped and someone leaned on one side and part of it broke off, about 6-8”. How can I repair it? If I just glue It back together it will still be cupped and I don’t know how to make it flat. Thanks!
Nice respectful repair. I watch "The Repair Shop" too and have been conflicted about some of the choices they have made. My feeling is to follow art restorers guidelines such as making repairs that can be undone in the future. Another reason for hide glue. The "figure 8's" are okay too since they will never be mistaken for original. All repairs should be blended in but not to the point of fooling someone they're original. Another guideline is it is okay to fix something as might have been done by the maker along the lifetime of the piece as general maintenance. Drawer slides wearing out etc. I wonder why you didn't shellac seal the drawer bottom and back of the top to cut down further humidity swelling. But that is a pet peeve of mine...so many videos , including Norm Abrams', that the underside of the top gets no finish! Or at least some sealer.
That’s a tougher question for a piece that’s beautiful and old and charter. Umm my first reaction was to make it last, but I really like the wood and the character so in this piece I would say let it have the character and it’s not gonna be perfect. The black table that you did with the intricate work that was cut on four sides and I had a, lower shelf on it like a side table that one I thought you would fix it to be perfect instead of fill it with wax, but I guess because it was such a black coloration. I’m not sure what the reason for not making that one look closer to.seamless?
Excellent work! I do have one question: Why didn't you attempt to stain that drawer runner to match the other? Stands out like a sore thumb if you pull the drawer out, or look from underneath.
I prefer the new wood to stand out at first then age naturally. If the table and the repair last another century, the new rail will be much less flagrant
Very nice restoration the only thing i would have done different and only because of the age of the table i wouldn't have used the figure of 8 table fasteners i would have put groves in the base just under the top and then screwed wooden L shaped blocks to the topi know it would have been long winded but would have been a period style fixing and i would not have reused the pegs you wouldn't have needed them
You do what is necessary to preserve the piece. It makes no sense not correcting the problems. How useful would it be? I have a couple of pieces I had repaired and restored as close to the original as possible. I know the pieces will still be here for many years to come.
The glue is called “hide glue”. We have downloadable reference sheets available as part of our Fixing Furniture Community Membership. See www.fixingfurniture.com
A failed repair should be modified such that it does not recur. I have an oval table ca. 1760-70 I repaired similarly, but modern hardware was not visible…it’s still perfect…repair hasn’t failed in 45 years.
May be there friend picking up one corner and draging it from one part of the house to a nother place , for a 100 years= they could have had dirt floors ha ha ha !
Too me it looks like someone took a table that didn’t have a drawer and put one in. They used the apron for the drawer front and the rail.
Nice work Scott.
That’s what I was thinking. The table didn’t have a drawer and someone put one in, that’s why the two pegs that don’t make sense.
I personally prefer a conservative approach to restoration, but if you know keeping a flaw will cause the piece to break, I think it's best to make the modification to keep it functional for the longest possible time. Thanks for the great video!
This table was around 1920, even to an amateur the original didn’t have a drawer.
@@harrying882he mentions this in the video.
If fixing it in a way that allows the table to last another 100-years, then your fix is just part of the table's history.
It’s such a beautiful table. To fix it to cure the problem is the way to go. The small metal clips are totally concealed. It would appear that someone added the drawer so originality is gone anyway. I say you fixed it for another 100 years use. Great job. I think the original builder would like it.
Most relaxing video I've watched in a long time. So cool that the table maintains its character but is functional again.
I have a few years on you and no longer run a stripping/refinishing shop. It's rewarding to watch you and listen to your soothing delivery and earnest mannerisms-thank you for your humble representation of a group of craftspeople I fear are not being often replaced Having had draft horses for years , I often used mane or tail hairs where you use floss.If one broke the color of the remaining hair was mostly undetectable.
I have a good technique for clamping up the table top that would avoid all the hassles. I have three long pieces that I've ripped into triangles, roughly 20-30 degrees. Then using cauls like you have on the bottom, I run some soft twine in figure 8s around the cauls and loosely across the top. Slide in the triangle wedges (also covered with packing tape and rounded over the top edges) into the figure 8s, alternating directions. Gently tap the wedges to tighten the twine. This will both keep the boards flat and pull them together. This works great for very thin pieces but would also work fine for your table top. This was a featured tip that I submitted to Wood Magazine a couple of years ago.
Couple more centuries! Part of what makes these valuable is the craftsmanship and history. Yours included!
Make the changes, and make it last. The next craftsman who repairs this in 2217 or so, will appreciate your approach when he delves into the archeology of the table.
Very nice. Total attention to detail. Good information on technique.
Thanks for watching!
You and Tom Johnson are the two most professional restorers I have watched!
Thanks! Useful info. I appreciate the educational aspects of your videos.
Thank you so much for your support! We appreciate that! Scott & Laurie
This is probably one of the most helpful videos in your arsenal - adding it to my "fav" file. Allowing for wood movement is something current restorers (furniture flippers) aren't taking into account, leaving pieces at risk of splitting. Glad you focus on this - it is such helpful info! After restoring a Japanese Tansu - and over 150 wooden nails/pegs - I've become a fan of no nails... and will now use wooden peg repair whenever possible. Love the tip with the magnet!!!!! Why didn't I think of that? :)
I feel to really do furniture a justice, it should be restored in a way that it will last for generations to come.
A very nice and simple-looking two centuries old table, Scott. Congratulations on repairing and restoring it.
The dental floss is a great idea, and I have heard it suggested that using compressed air works well. I have used the latter with great results.
Hello there. I really enjoy your channel and have learned a lot. I recently got into repairing furniture myself after I retired from full-time work. I am repairing/modifying some chairs for a customer and have learned a lot by doing this. Mostly better and more efficient ways of doing things. I am on a limited budge since I am starting out so I have to manufacture thing that most people buy. These chairs (they are like dining room table chairs) had a webbed back which was old and torn. The customer said their son (who is grown) would be using them and he is a big guy. The customer did not want to have the webbing back in the chairs. I told them the best and strongest way to fix this would be to replace the wedding with rails. The chairs were to have three verical rails to replace the webbing in the back. One was the top and bottom rail that the vitical rails would attach to had two different radiuses. I ran into many challanges I had to sovle in doing this. So I made a jig to bend (warp) the two outside rail to match the two different radiuses. So far this has worked very slick. I also made a jig to old the veritical rails to drill two dowel holes in them. I had an off the shelf dowel hole centering tool but it did not work very well. My setup that I built worked much better and was much faster. Especially since I had 72 holes to drill. One trick I learn from your friend over at "Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration" was when I was pulling off the top rail of the chairs, I used heat to soften the glue in the rail joint to keep from breaking either the top or side rail in disassembly.
Great videos! Keep up the good work!
Nicely done! I like the look of the wooden pegs.
Beim restaurieren ist das sich Zeit nehmen sehr wichtig. Danke für das sehr gute Video.
Scott: There is a wonderful continutity to all your repairs. Each piece of furniture is different requiring diffeent tecnhiques. What is constant is you deliberate, gentle actions with doing any opertaion. You have NEVER hurried. You take the time it takes to do the process correctly. Watching for years, I have gotten this one truism about your work.
Well thank you for sharing that observation. I appreciate you mentioning that. Thank you for following along on our channel!
Great work, I love the compromise between function and ‘original’? Features - the top pegs. Can’t wait until the next video, it sounds great.
Dental floss. Genius! Another tool for my box.
Glue blocks under the top at the front and back would be consistent with period techniques & would allow for some movement of the top
Small diameter dowels I use to secure the drawer runners instead of pin nails with the large head which are not period fasteners, the dowels would not interfere with the tenon pegs they would easily glue/bond to them if you end up in contact with them
I like to still take apart the dovetail drawer joints to remove the nails, it’s extremely rare that I can not get one apart, I sometimes try & remove the nails first, then tap the joint fully apart
Appreciate your videos
Nicely done. My approach to most antiques that need modified is similar to what Jay Leno does with vintage cars; make improvements that they should’ve or would’ve done at the time if they’d known about them or had the materials or tools. Also, it depends on the intervention of the fate of the piece. I refinished a piece that needed extensive repair but without it the piece would have been thrown in the trash.
I like videos where I learn something I can use immediately. I have a Hoosier cupboard I need to fix the drawer slides, one of them is only half there and they are all loose. Also I have an old kitchen table that the top is split. The table isn’t an antique it’s just old, it was my grandmas kitchen/work table from when they lived in the basement while grampa built the house so it’s more sentimental for me but I want to fix it right this time.
I've been looking for a solution to reattach a wooden tabletop that my grandfather and I made for years. You just gave me the solution with those Figure 8 clips. Thanks for the tip and installation guide.
Glad to hear it was helpful! Scott
If using crosshead screws in awkward places you can superglue the screw to the tip of the screwdriver. It's just enough to get the screw started but easy to break loose.
What a smart idea
@@fortmacmom3122 Thank you.
What a great amount of information in one program! I love the restoration!
Bonjour super travail on apprend beaucoup de choses sur le travail du bois merci Belgique 🇧🇪
This is very interesting to me, even though I don’t repair furniture - sort of. I make furniture, but in the process of making furniture sometimes I make mistakes. Which means I have to repair the mistake so, like I said, very interesting.
With experience, one acquires intellectual knowledge, and is how the use of dental floss to glue tight cracks, a story stick to level legs, and a piece of veneer to add a bit of height to a drawer channel are used so ingeniously, thank you Scott for sharing your expertise!
ive been trying to 'restore' an old cabinet myself, i wish i watched your video before i did that!!
Next month, I'm restoring an old cabinet. That one might help you too. Cheers. Scott
I'd call and ask the customer what they want!
Great work as usual!
I go with using some modern fixes to prevent further damage in the future. Great job by the way! I’m glad I live in dry southern Alberta where the humidity doesn’t affect our furniture as much. Biggest problem is antiques are hard to come by. We have collectibles. Most of ours are from late 1800s to 1950s. If you are rich or a founding family, they have many antiques.
The vernacular I’m familiar with has an “antique” to be something a century old with something notably older termed an “heirloom” (though especially something passed on down a family).
My dad told me to use thick thread. I didn’t think of using dental floss! Thank you for this hint!
Very enjoyable! Wood is beautiful for furniture. It looked like there was a wood strip originally on the end grain of the top. At 27:30 it looked like the new rail was about 3/16” low in the back with the drawer pushed in.
holy crap !!!! i'm impressed!!!!!! i would love to have teach this in my group on face book. if you're interested in doing that. great work clear concise video .. Great instructions. you sir are a credit to this trade.
IMO, there's nothing wrong with modification of a piece, in the name of preservation. As long as the modification can be done in such a way, that it isn't immediately noticeable. Also, as long as the modification does indeed improve the piece- like what you're doing with the top. You're using a modern method to secure the top, but it allows the wood to do it's thing.
EDIT: That dental floss trick is AWESOME!!! Thank you!!
Excellent video. I will get some hide glue now. And fix a wooden trunk too! thanks
Great techniques, informative interesting and practical
You did good work, Scott.
Meticulously done, great work!
If I did this levelling I would end up with a coffee table good work .
That looks great you fixed everything that was wrong with the table . Prayers 🙏 and Love 🤟 From Ginger
Great work as always, Scotty. I like the floss technique.
The piece appears to have originally a plain table with four skirt boards. It was later modified to add the drawer.
Thank you for showing me how to use a Japanese pole saw I was given one by a friend and I always had a hard time working with it now I know why
Glad that was helpful for you! Scott
100% modify. Keep the look but make it last.
I agree, especially if the modifications are not intrusive.
Nice solid work and clear video of what you are doing. Will add dental floss to glue tech in my tool box.
👍👍👍 Advise the customer and follow their instructions. Thanks
Came to your channel by fiat. Wow! Learned a lot. Clone yourself so I can bring an 1800’s silver chest to you for repairs in the states.
I use a shop vac under a crack to pull glue through a crack. Works great. Cheers
i enjoyed this video. Thank you!
Très joli travail,,à bientôt salut Jeannot 🛠😉
Very interesting and enjoyable, thank you.
Like it. Good observations, good technique.
Every serious furniture restorer is faced with questions of replacing or fixing timber parts that are compromised in some way, important furniture can sometimes warrant a creative approach in order to retain originality but it is never easy or clear cut how to proceed. It can be very time consuming in order to save structural features and finishes.
excellent travail
Wir nehmen Gold ! Hat immer funktioniert....
Nice job scott
Those clamping cauls with divots to span the joint is brilliant! Mind if I borrow that idea?
Go for it! Glad you found that useful.
good work
I would rather have a piece of furniture to be functional and as much as original as possible.
Learned some tricks thanks
That was a lot of good information!
My feeling about antiques is you want to preserve the appearence as much as possible. Making a modification to help it last longer is great so long as it doesn't alter the appearence of the item.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on that. I appreciate it!
That's a beautiful piece :)
Great work as always 😍😍
Thank you Sir.🎉
36:00 maybe it would be cool to have two laser levels set up on the X and Y dimensions of the bench to show lines on things like legs when they aren't level
I usually use a ferriors rasp for trimming down the tall leg,
So much info!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Preserve AND improve…but notes on the piece accompanying it would be a bonus for the future owners.
What genius way to open a crack! But wouldn't gluing the tongue-and-groove boards be the same as nailing them together so they don't move? (You can tell I'm not a real woodworker) Beautiful job!
Minimal modifications NICE.
What glue do you use and link please. Thanks
Sure like all of your vids there scott !
I have a similar table made out of walnut with a two drawers on the front. My was probably made in weatern Switzerland. The tabletop is held on with four pegs, and it also developed cracks. I wonder if people used to commonly attach tabletops that way?
Pretty
Thank you are great !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love your videos but how about talking more about the kinds of woods your furniture is made from. Many thanks, Ian in Cape Town South Africa
Canada….oak, walnut, maple, pine are the common ones. And old stuff…oak and some walnut usually. Not much variety. Sometimes there is some other kind.
Why not use fine finish btad cut nails from Tremont for a more period correct restoration? I've found them to be very strong in use and by design, not likely to split end or face grain... especially if pre drilled with 1/16 in. drill bit and glued at joining surfaces.
Wonderful! 2 questions; why don’t everybody use reversabel hide glue? I find it difficult to start sawing (trembling hands). Could I use the chisel to mark the line? Thanks!😊
I wonder of the drawer was added later hence the pegs in the front to hold the tenon that was no longer needed once the drawer was added.
I have a small kitchen table that’s about 100 years old that is painted. The top is cupped and someone leaned on one side and part of it broke off, about 6-8”. How can I repair it? If I just glue It back together it will still be cupped and I don’t know how to make it flat. Thanks!
Nice respectful repair. I watch "The Repair Shop" too and have been conflicted about some of the choices they have made. My feeling is to follow art restorers guidelines such as making repairs that can be undone in the future. Another reason for hide glue. The "figure 8's" are okay too since they will never be mistaken for original. All repairs should be blended in but not to the point of fooling someone they're original. Another guideline is it is okay to fix something as might have been done by the maker along the lifetime of the piece as general maintenance. Drawer slides wearing out etc.
I wonder why you didn't shellac seal the drawer bottom and back of the top to cut down further humidity swelling. But that is a pet peeve of mine...so many videos , including Norm Abrams', that the underside of the top gets no finish! Or at least some sealer.
That’s a tougher question for a piece that’s beautiful and old and charter. Umm my first reaction was to make it last, but I really like the wood and the character so in this piece I would say let it have the character and it’s not gonna be perfect. The black table that you did with the intricate work that was cut on four sides and I had a, lower shelf on it like a side table that one I thought you would fix it to be perfect instead of fill it with wax, but I guess because it was such a black coloration. I’m not sure what the reason for not making that one look closer to.seamless?
Excellent work! I do have one question: Why didn't you attempt to stain that drawer runner to match the other? Stands out like a sore thumb if you pull the drawer out, or look from underneath.
Agree. A light wash with potassium permanganate would age the pine to a more suitable aged look
I prefer the new wood to stand out at first then age naturally. If the table and the repair last another century, the new rail will be much less flagrant
When discussing the function of the figure 8 clips, aren't the pegs working against them? Thanks
That would be the hidden pegs.
Very nice restoration the only thing i would have done different and only because of the age of the table i wouldn't have used the figure of 8 table fasteners i would have put groves in the base just under the top and then screwed wooden L shaped blocks to the topi know it would have been long winded but would have been a period style fixing and i would not have reused the pegs you wouldn't have needed them
The original craftsman used the best techniques available. If what we have today was available, then they would have used it.
Well said! Thank you
Not necessarily. You are assuming they were a good competent craftsman.
True.
Would hot hide glue not have been more convenient for the veneer? Also, do you mix your own liquid hide glue?
You do what is necessary to preserve the piece. It makes no sense not correcting the problems. How useful would it be? I have a couple of pieces I had repaired and restored as close to the original as possible. I know the pieces will still be here for many years to come.
Nice programming. Could u add glossary if terms in ur description? I almost forgot the name "hi glue" a term I'm not familiar with. And thx!
The glue is called “hide glue”. We have downloadable reference sheets available as part of our Fixing Furniture Community Membership. See www.fixingfurniture.com
With the dental floss, avoid waxed floss as you risk leaving wax residue in the crack which would ruin the adhesion.
The original builders used the best and most modern technology they had. If someone had invented figure 8 washers they would have used them.
Yes, good point! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Could the drawer have been added and not part of the original table?
Yes, that’s likely what happened
A failed repair should be modified such that it does not recur. I have an oval table ca. 1760-70 I repaired similarly, but modern hardware was not visible…it’s still perfect…repair hasn’t failed in 45 years.
Always interesting...but not sure I understand why/how the legs got longer throughout the years from original...
May be there friend picking up one corner and draging it from one part of the house to a nother place , for a 100 years= they could have had dirt floors ha ha ha !
What product did you use to glue the top together?