Pretty complicated..well compared to ours, but I love it and the way you made your system its creative.For our machine when it comes out the coolant pump, we put a Y connected with integrated Ball valves, just select whether you want the hose or coolant.
That's a nice solution too. However humans do make mistakes, so someone might forget switching back. What impact that has, will depend on many factors (like machine attendance) but needs to be considered. I totally understand scrapping the human factor in most designs...
Hey John, use turpentine as coolant/lubricant for cutting aluminum. Prevents the chips of sticking on your surface or your cutter and it gives you a good surface quality.
That was a lot more interesting than I was expecting, but anything with chips flying is great. i love the tip on the hockey pucks, I think I will buy a bucket of them for my hobby shop. I already have made a couple of bench blocks out of them and I think i like them even better than the steel one for most jobs. Cheers and thanks for the great content!
RE: slotting - there's this thing I do when needing a slot in wood (usually Masonite board) : I use a drill to remove most of the material first, then kluge my way through the rest with the same drill, back and forth until I get something close to a slot. While I don't reccomend the latter, you might want to try removal using a drill first. Please lmk what you think and/or if this work for you! Keep on making those graet vids!!!
all you need to do is tie in a normally closed solenoid and normally open relay from the door safety switch. When the door is open the relay opens and in turn closes the solenoid.
Slotting for me has worked if you reduce your gauge height, on that tool visually, if you can get a holder that's like half or less the gauge height, with flood coolant I slot right into 304 stainless. High feed end mills also help. I know adaptive is cool, but like you say, sometimes you really just can't spend the 20 minute cycle time it might take to adaptive it out with an 1/8" end mill.
Corncob or serrated mills slot like beasts! Kinda too bad you often need to finish up the edge... but it's so hard to get them to pack up it's worth it...
I've thought about something similar for a washdown setup on a Tormach. I envision a pressure switch controlling the coolant pump and a NO solenoid valve (120v AC so it can be easily connected to the coolant control of the Tormach) on the coolant ring. When the pressure switch detects a drop in pressure in the coolant line (from either the solenoid opening or the hose opening) it turns on the coolant pump. You just have to set up the power to the coolant pump or pressure switch so that it turns off when you turn off the machine, otherwise the coolant will turn on when you power down the machine.
Flood coolant or roughing endmills will help out the slots. I bet a TAS rougher would have flown through that, and you came back for a finish pass anyway.
Those solenoid valves usually have tiny open orifices, which would seriously restrict flow in the on position. Does that one have a full 1/2" orifice when open? Edit: Here's the valve I use for coolant control on my Tormach. It's a motor actuated ball valve, so it doesn't have a wimpy orifice when open: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y1ZAKS2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice idea but what I hate is coolant that continually drips while you're trying to change parts or doing a set up. I have to jog away from under the spindle. I'd like to see an air purge of the coolant nozzles.
My idea would be to machine a new handle for the coolant tap and have it spring loaded. When it rises up, it pushes against the ceiling and the tap is turned off, but as soon as it lowers, the spring tension would open the tap again
You could do it pneumatically - i.e. a simple valve in place of the switch and a pilot-operated valve in place of the solenoid - if you, for instance, wanted to.
Have you had any issues with the solenoid burning out? On the web page it states that it is not 100% duty cycle and can burn out after 8 hours of continuous use. Guessing you hooked it into the outlet supplied with the machine so it turns off when the machine is not in use?
2 things John. 1 Why do you not use flood coolant in the 1100M ? That should prevent chips heating up and sticking to the end mill. 2. You are telling me that a 100k $ machine has only 1 control solenoid on board to control the flow of coolant ? VM3 ?
I know you are not in favor of roughing end mills, but if you had used one on those full depth cuts it might have gone like a hot knife through butter.
shut a door in front of a pressurized fluid is a nono for the pump... instead of a shutter solenoid better use a 3 way diverter solenoid that when is "activate" re route coolant straight to the pool instead of giving a dead end
Depends on whether it is a positive displacement pump or not. A centrifugal pump for example does not care if it is being blocked, a piston pump for example would most certainly die very quickly...
Less RPM (about 500 potentially a little more...) for the full load cut then your chips get thrown away more quick and can take up more heat... but be careful... I would use coolant for that...
There ought to be a "sawing" motion available for cutting slots where the Z moves up and down cyclically over the length of the cutter while cutting the slot. Should reduce chip weld and improve clearing chips.
I'm no engineer but I think it would be a whole lot cheaper, easier, and smarter to just put a 1/4 turn brass ball valve on the spindle coolant outlet line from the screen filter housing. $15 and 15 minutes. You could probably be done in the time it takes you to watch this video
I'm missing something...why can't the switch just do the same thing as the panel "Coolant Off" button i.e turn the pump off (or whatever it's functionality is)? Rather than use a separate valve?
It sounds like the panel button controls the pump. If the pump is turned off, the hose won't work. Their solenoid only turns off the head nozzles, so the pump can remain on and the hose can be used.
I've found a high helix angle helps. The other day I was slotting 13mm 6061 full depth with a 10mm high helix 2 flute and neat cutting oil mist. It worked pretty well.
It’s amazing how far good machine design goes for reducing the need for a wash down hose.
I did something similar, but triggered by the doors, since they already have a switch.
Pretty complicated..well compared to ours, but I love it and the way you made your system its creative.For our machine when it comes out the coolant pump, we put a Y connected with integrated Ball valves, just select whether you want the hose or coolant.
That's a nice solution too. However humans do make mistakes, so someone might forget switching back. What impact that has, will depend on many factors (like machine attendance) but needs to be considered. I totally understand scrapping the human factor in most designs...
you can't just hide a 3d printed haimer probe tip like that!!!! That's a life changing innovation!
Hey John, use turpentine as coolant/lubricant for cutting aluminum. Prevents the chips of sticking on your surface or your cutter and it gives you a good surface quality.
That was a lot more interesting than I was expecting, but anything with chips flying is great. i love the tip on the hockey pucks, I think I will buy a bucket of them for my hobby shop. I already have made a couple of bench blocks out of them and I think i like them even better than the steel one for most jobs.
Cheers and thanks for the great content!
RE: slotting - there's this thing I do when needing a slot in wood (usually Masonite board) : I use a drill to remove most of the material first, then kluge my way through the rest with the same drill, back and forth until I get something close to a slot. While I don't reccomend the latter, you might want to try removal using a drill first. Please lmk what you think and/or if this work for you!
Keep on making those graet vids!!!
all you need to do is tie in a normally closed solenoid and normally open relay from the door safety switch. When the door is open the relay opens and in turn closes the solenoid.
Slotting for me has worked if you reduce your gauge height, on that tool visually, if you can get a holder that's like half or less the gauge height, with flood coolant I slot right into 304 stainless. High feed end mills also help. I know adaptive is cool, but like you say, sometimes you really just can't spend the 20 minute cycle time it might take to adaptive it out with an 1/8" end mill.
Corncob or serrated mills slot like beasts! Kinda too bad you often need to finish up the edge... but it's so hard to get them to pack up it's worth it...
For that slotting look at some Alu Power end mills. Use them all the time and they are fantastic and crazy fast at full doc.
I've thought about something similar for a washdown setup on a Tormach. I envision a pressure switch controlling the coolant pump and a NO solenoid valve (120v AC so it can be easily connected to the coolant control of the Tormach) on the coolant ring. When the pressure switch detects a drop in pressure in the coolant line (from either the solenoid opening or the hose opening) it turns on the coolant pump. You just have to set up the power to the coolant pump or pressure switch so that it turns off when you turn off the machine, otherwise the coolant will turn on when you power down the machine.
My kind of problem solving, love it! Have a great holiday season.
Would have been nice to see it working :)
IMHO, slotting works better with flood coolant than mist coolant.
Flood coolant or roughing endmills will help out the slots. I bet a TAS rougher would have flown through that, and you came back for a finish pass anyway.
same brand of solenoid I put on my coolant setup! :D
You need a giant Dyson hand dryer to blow chips one end of machine to evacuator.
Those solenoid valves usually have tiny open orifices, which would seriously restrict flow in the on position. Does that one have a full 1/2" orifice when open?
Edit: Here's the valve I use for coolant control on my Tormach. It's a motor actuated ball valve, so it doesn't have a wimpy orifice when open: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y1ZAKS2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice idea but what I hate is coolant that continually drips while you're trying to change parts or doing a set up. I have to jog away from under the spindle. I'd like to see an air purge of the coolant nozzles.
My idea would be to machine a new handle for the coolant tap and have it spring loaded. When it rises up, it pushes against the ceiling and the tap is turned off, but as soon as it lowers, the spring tension would open the tap again
seriously though.. nice project! will strongly consider making one. keep up the great work man!
You could do it pneumatically - i.e. a simple valve in place of the switch and a pilot-operated valve in place of the solenoid - if you, for instance, wanted to.
Very smart and I love the simplicity of the design. :)
Have you had any issues with the solenoid burning out? On the web page it states that it is not 100% duty cycle and can burn out after 8 hours of continuous use. Guessing you hooked it into the outlet supplied with the machine so it turns off when the machine is not in use?
2 things John. 1 Why do you not use flood coolant in the 1100M ? That should prevent chips heating up and sticking to the end mill. 2. You are telling me that a 100k $ machine has only 1 control solenoid on board to control the flow of coolant ? VM3 ?
I know you are not in favor of roughing end mills, but if you had used one on those full depth cuts it might have gone like a hot knife through butter.
shut a door in front of a pressurized fluid is a nono for the pump... instead of a shutter solenoid better use a 3 way diverter solenoid that when is "activate" re route coolant straight to the pool instead of giving a dead end
Depends on whether it is a positive displacement pump or not. A centrifugal pump for example does not care if it is being blocked, a piston pump for example would most certainly die very quickly...
how did you wire this? I cant find any wiring diagram and I am not comfortable wiring 110. also where did you get the 3 wire shielded wire you used?
Less RPM (about 500 potentially a little more...) for the full load cut then your chips get thrown away more quick and can take up more heat... but be careful... I would use coolant for that...
There ought to be a "sawing" motion available for cutting slots where the Z moves up and down cyclically over the length of the cutter while cutting the slot. Should reduce chip weld and improve clearing chips.
Mastercam has that option on contour.
im ordering parts right now , thanks
I'm no engineer but I think it would be a whole lot cheaper, easier, and smarter to just put a 1/4 turn brass ball valve on the spindle coolant outlet line from the screen filter housing. $15 and 15 minutes. You could probably be done in the time it takes you to watch this video
I'm missing something...why can't the switch just do the same thing as the panel "Coolant Off" button i.e turn the pump off (or whatever it's functionality is)? Rather than use a separate valve?
It sounds like the panel button controls the pump. If the pump is turned off, the hose won't work. Their solenoid only turns off the head nozzles, so the pump can remain on and the hose can be used.
@@Hirudin , that, explains it, thx. Did not know about the hose.
could also have used a pushbutton valve to directly shut off the coolant, or indirectly used an air switch if worried about waterproof electronics
One thing you don't mention in this great idea is how you wired this up...I'm sure I can figure it out. but would be helpful
I wish I had the problem that my spindle was too hard to reach because my machine was so big.
Nice! Thanks for the video.
Oscillation on Z like they do on stone cutters should help with single pass.
Great solution I like it 👌🏻👍🏻
Where do you get the diamond drag bit?
www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=32447
@@joshuaorange8290 Much thanks!
Keep it simple = complicated things break easier
Very cool...ant!
shoulda used flood coolant, the full depth slot would've cut perfectly
Nice job.
"keep it simple" I think there is one more work to round out that to KISS engineering ;o)
Good idea!
Nice fixture plate plugs '-)
Dang that's a very smart project!!! Great critical thinking
More hockey puck fixtures I see...
One Darlington transistor, two resistor would have taken care of it. Design the board, connectors.... Oh well.
I love it.
The solenoid can still get stuck closed though, right?
I suppose - but it's as close to fail-safe as possible. The coolant pump could also die, a line could get disconnected or pinched, etc.
use a 2 or 3 flute end mill in aluminium... doesnt gum up. Helps the chips escape
:D itsnot aboud number of flutes , but its about geometry .. OH ?/ .... especialy its about spirale angle on flutes
I've found a high helix angle helps. The other day I was slotting 13mm 6061 full depth with a 10mm high helix 2 flute and neat cutting oil mist. It worked pretty well.
Or go full crazy and use a 1 flute. In slotting getting the chips out is key and I do feel flood coolant may have worked better.
Yeah I don't have that problem with my Brother Speedio. :D
That Haimer tip?!?! Waaaaaat?
Lol Ed has caused an international scandal by repeatedly killing a nationally worshiped Canadian sports icon on camera!
Never had such problems on german machines XD
Well this isn't for a german machine. Your point?
Oh yeah, German machines don't have any crazy issues. 😉 Lol. Plus, when you're paying 2-3 times as much, you better not have any issues.
just drink the coolant..
couldnt you do this in post?
The point of this is to be able to use the wash down hose without having to manually turn the spindle coolant off.
Puck hockey.
First?
Weird. I have never seen John's video with so few comments before