I did something similar. Took a $335 Savage Model 12 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Put it in an Oryx chassis. Had a gunsmith chamber a heavy (1.25”) 26” Shilen select match barrel and blueprint the action. Put in a 1 lb RifleBasix trigger and longer bolt handle. Added your BR EC Tuner Brake. I’ve got less than $2,000 in the gun (not counting a $900 Sightron scope). With my handloads (you’ve helped me there), I can shoot .3 MOA (5 shot) groups at 200 Yds. 1st shot at 400 was dead on. With the factory barrel, I shot 4 into 4.6” at 1,000 Yds. I’m not a pro shooter or special operator - started shooting 3 years ago at age 71.
I have been thinking about the MDT ORYX system for my Savage 110 Tactical in 308W, but my first range session went well bore cleaning revealed a bad barrel that shattered deeply marks were replaced with a Criterion barrel, but my question is, “what type of group(s) did you achieve with the factory stock, and improvement did achieve with the Oryx stock”? My Savage still sitting in the original stock.
@@rudolphferdinand3634 I have a Savage Model 10 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Put an Oryx MDT stock on it and never looked back. Do yourself a favor and put one on it. You will not regret it. As they stated in one of the first videos, the rifle is much more manageable and stable after the recoil. Much easier to keep on target. Groups were reduced as well. No comparison to the original stock.
I can be biased for saying no one can deny how simple design Remington 700 is. Critics thumbs it down never the less it's copied by custom action makers, and to question the trigger issue, Quantico fielded it for a few decades and reported no such issue in the hands of our beloved servicemen. Good thing you guys put out such wonderful work.
I love your enthusiasm about the price point of your tuner Eric, despite your best efforts companies like dominion outdoors out here in Canada have it jacked up to $350 already, plus shipping. Cost for having a standard barrel threaded seems to be between $100 to $150 (more with recrown) plus about the same amount of petrol to get to a gunsmith out here that can do it for you after a 2 month wait. That $600 is already getting close to the initial cost of the firearm, and slightly higher cost then the Vortex Diamondback FFP that sits on top of many of my budget rifle builds. Don't take this as a troll post, everyone here appreciates what you have done for the community for free with your content, and putting out a product like this is one step above. If anyone deserves a troll post its the guys taking the work off your back and reselling it for excessive profit.
Everyone wants a piece of the pie that’s how this old world works! It’s your job to find ways around the middle man so you can save a buck where possible! Been hunting reloading and collecting guns for 60 years now and I am always looking for a way to save a buck where possible and that is my job and yours to my friend!
I've done this same thing over the last year, but not factory ammo. I picked up an ADL Tactical in 6.5cm off the shelf for $400, came with a 20moa rail, heavy, threaded, varmint barrel. I put it in an oryx and bought a cheap brake while you were coming out with your tuner. Using my reloads and cheap Hornady bullets, it's sub 1/2 moa!
I noticed right away that the setup now seems to allow for almost no body movement during reload cycle, and the amount of gas going sideways from the brake is amazing!
Just sent my order in - can't wait to see it on my AICS AT and how it runs. I really love what you're doing and what is essentially outreach to the community on many levels. Yes, it's a business and I'm happy to support it. SSG
The first thing that needs to be trashed when purchasing a 700 is the trigger!!!! Then the plastic stock like Eric stated!!! Thanks guys for putting this together!!!!!
Triggertech primary for the money can't be beat. I have two of them, and I have a Timney, it's only real competition at the same price point, and the Triggertech is just better. It feels lighter than it really is because it has zero creep. Can't recommend them enough, 10/10. Just saw your idea about the factory stock. It looks like a cheek riser pouch setup like the ones from Triad Tactical might make it easier to shoot. They're like $60 and really good quality.
" It looks like a cheek riser pouch setup like the ones from Triad Tactical might make it easier to shoot' This or a cheap plastic bolt on for the same price and a $5 trigger spring from Mcarbo would have made half of the difference im convinced.. would love to see a poor mans version of this same series. Throw a $500 optic on there too.
@@foonus406 Not sure if you've ever taken a R700 apart, but the trigger doesn't have a replaceable coil spring like say a ruger american or browning a-bolt, etc. As far as the plastic bolt-on, to each his own I guess. I'm usually not willing to drill holes and put screws or bolts on my guns, but that's just my preference. I also have a cheap version of the triad from midway (their own brand) that probably works just as good. I'm not an elitist type, the triad just seems to fit the style of their build here better.
@@robertmajors1737 The bergara I have already came with a Triggertech, haven't had the chance to look at a stock one. Its one of the first things I do with the Tikkas and CZ I usually buy.
@@foonus406 Absolutely couldn't agree more. When I go to the range, I have to shoot my rifles with the Triggertechs last or it makes the other decent triggers feel awful. Especially in field shooting conditions, I think being able to break off the shot exactly when you want is maybe only secondary to good fundamentals. I refuse to own a rifle with a terrible trigger anymore, because you're never quite sure if it's you or the gun causing inaccuracy.
I have never tried a Primary because a few years back I got a special on sale really cheap. I bought another Diamond later. I think the Special is probably the sweet spot when you're only paying a few bucks more than a Primary.
Trigger and Bolt then Ammo. Then when all is done, put on an after market barrel. This will simulate what all of us will do eventually when factory barrel is worn out. Thanks for GREAT channel
Hey guys great video. This is the kind of stuff I love to watch. If you made more of this kind of thing i would definitely tune in. As you know not everyone can afford a custom and this is attainable to most if they save a little. Good job!
Hey guys, I'm loving the series. The first thing that everybody says with a Rem. 700 at the range is "I have a trued Rem. 700" or a "blueprinted Rem. 700 action" and nearly always with upgraded triggers. Throughout this series, you have tinkered with both rifles and got them as good as you can with aftermarket "bolt-ons". How about truly modifying your 3.5 MOA rifle with an Oryx chassis, a new cut rifled Brux barrel, blueprinting/trueing the action, lapping the bolt lugs, bolt spring and a trigger. This might actually see if all of those common gunsmithing and barrel upgrades are actually worth it, instead of the common accessory "bolt-ons". I'd like to see what a trued action & cut-rifled barrel can do......then even add a tuner-brake. With the anticipated results, I'm sure that you will not hurt any of your sponsors feelings and I'm sure that you could get a decent Brux barrel for the experiment. Plus, we can see an easy $1.4k build vs a fully custom $2.5k build. Just my 2c. Cheers guys.
It's cool you guys did all this work before doing the trigger. If the trigger does add anything, we will know for sure and it will be a definitive answer.
This is awsome, I ran the same drill on a Ruger American chambered in 6.5 creed. With similar results….now I just need to get my hands on a EC Tuner brake.
Would be fun to add an adjustable inexpensive bolt-through kydex cheek riser to the factory plastic stock. Never done it but you may or may not have to add some foam inside the stock for rigidity. Also not sure what the foam will do to the balance.
These risers are likely the best way to get a consistent cheek weld on a cheap stock, I have several setups using them on plastic Tikka stocks, all of which shoot under half a minute or better with only that riser and a cheap $5 mcarbo trigger spring.
Okay so lets go backwards just a little, comparing from the start. Keepin the ammunition the same, stocks the same, scopes same. Where was the most significant change on rifle from the other? Would you agree it was the turner break? The other rifle in the comparison is shooting just the same but has no stock change except for lug bed and pillars or the tuner break. So personally IMHO the barrel had the issue and the tuner break made the correction almost 100%. Right?
I am not sure I agree, the 3.5 MOA rifle became a 1.5 MOA rifle with the stock change and then a 0.5 MOA rifle with the addition of the EZ. On paper the stock change would appear to be more significant. Only way to know for sure would be to put the barrel back in the original stock and see if it can shoot significantly better than 1.5 MOA.
Don't forget that they re-crowned the barrel when they threaded it for the tuner brake. If the barrel was actually the issue then the new crown could account for some portion of the increased accuracy. Impossible to know for sure since they did both at the same time. The fact that it shot the best group without adjusting the tuner at all might mean the re-crown did most of the work. Likely a combination of both. To test everything independently you'd need to test the new crown, then add a brake and then add the tuner and test each separately.
@@kalicom2937 I agree, some of the steps where skipped b/w both rifles. To be consistant you bed lug and pillar both stocks and check for change as it started. One Rifle Erick proved to be right with all changes except the T brake. The second took a leap to a new stock without anytime wasting from the original stock. And it improved just a little bit, but when the T Brake was added it improved well over 90%. The moral of the story IMHO. There are god barrels and bad ones. And some bad or just okay barrels, if you can find the harmonic tune that works for that barrel, I don't care what platform your put it on it will work. Just like you may find a barrel that is just bad, and no matter what you do they don't shoot.
My favorite part of this... It's in a budget $400 Oryx chassis. I have the same on my Axis II 6.5. It's MOA all day with S&B 140gr and that's good enough for me. I only put a couple hundred rounds through it before COVID blew up and I haven't really give back to it yet.
Glad to see that re-crowning was part of the install of the tuner brake. You looked at the bolt lug contact and gave it a "looks okay". If this was your PRS rifle okay would not be good enough. You need to lap it to full contact. Getting to full contact causes the "take-up" of the action production tolerances that leads to more consistent bolt lock. Don't settle for Okay.
I've watched all of these within an hour of posting just because i purchased a Remington 700 Adl chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. And i plan on using it for hunting this year but i also plan on getting into shooting semi long range
#1 stiffen the fore end to elimanate flexing while on the bipod. perhapes also add weight to the stock. throw on a cheek peice thing. ec tuner brake and trigger, bolt spring
Something they may be interesting: compare the pillar bedded factory rifle to the chassis/tuner gun with handloads vs tuning. Show the whole process and expense of developing a load vs the cost of the tuner break.
Ya! It needs our new round "7mm ML PRC" It is a 7mm bullet in a 6.5 PRC case. We have barrels dies and mandrels to upsize the 6.5 PRC case. We started developing this round in 2019. All finished getting ready for Sammi. 411Tactical, Inc. 162 grn bullet 3,100 FPS. At 500 yards 20 percent more energy that a 300-win mag with 38 percent less recoil. This will be the super cartridge.
Great video as always. You forgot to mention you have a $400 bipod on the rig. It would have been great to see you thread the barrel, install the tuner break and show and explain the tuning process. It was great to watch Jason drill those holes with zero movement!
If y’all put the original stock back on you might think about doing what I did is adding weight to the but end of the stock and filling it with something. I did this to a ruger American 6.5. I used some of that silicone mold stuff and pvc pipe with bird shot in it. Made a world of difference.
Put the chassis and tuner brake on the other rifle and see if the performance improvement transfers. Trigger springs? Lap lugs? Firing pin spring? True bolt face? Lap barrel? Work up a hand load? New trigger? Plenty of content available.
and FACTORY AMMO !!! VERY nice guys ! ......you also re-cut the Crown.....which is one of my personal most important things that usually needs attention.....now, do the trigger.....some handloads, and hummmmmmm.......OnWard.....
My stock Savage 12FV (bought used for $300) will do that, shoot sub 1/2moa with good glass and my handloads. I have the targets to prove it. The rifle's biggest problem is me, the shooter. Need to work on that one, make those 5 shot .342" groups the norm instead of being the exception.
I prefer the Triggertech trigger on my Bergara B14. I chose the same Oryx chassis and liked it so well, I switched a couple of my other rifles over to Oryx.
You can take the brake off to see if the recrown only made a difference. Also, fire lap the barrel. Lock time probably won't make a difference, but trigger upgrade might; both are worth a try.
How about lapping the barrel to see if that help? You can run some of those Tubb lapping bullets through it. You'll be able to review his bullets at the sametime.
Yeah, it's impossible to isolate the difference one aspect is making when you change multiple things at once. The barrel crown is one of the most important aspects of accuracy. I've seen some truly terrible factory crown jobs which when remedied cut groups to a third of what they were previous. The fact that it immediately shot the best group when the tuner was attached without any adjustment actually lends credence to the idea that the crown made a lot of the difference.
@@newerest1 I would like to see the other rifle have its crown re-cut and not thread it for a brake. Threading will remove metal and possibly affect harmonics.
10 thing that you can do to the basic rifle to improve accuracy and recrowning is one of them but should be one of the last because out of the hundreds yes hundreds of rifles I have owned over the last 69 years I have only had a couple that it made any real improvement in!
Next I would like to see how it performs with just a simple lightening of the factory trigger before you fellas put a new trigger on it . The cost of lightening up the trigger compared to a new Timney or Trigger Tech Diamond or Canjar or Jewell triggers would be significant amount of money saved .
Great project/series I’d like to throw out an idea from left field . Either in this project or a standalone. Get a Lee Loader ( the type that you use a hammer ) and see what accuracy you can get loading with it . There is no cheaper way to get into reloading. I know it goes against your dislike of neck sizing, but boy it would be interesting to see what quality of ammo you could create , with the average Joe hunter/shooter in mind .
Erik, really enjoying this series. My thoughts would be to put the other one back into the factory stock and see what you can do with your hand loads. I essentially did similar with a 700 about 30 years ago in 30-06. I was very pleased as it turned out to be a great hunting rig. I did have a trigger job done on the factory trigger set to 3.5 pounds. Thanks !
I had a factory sps in 22-250 years ago that would do 1/2 moa no problem. Eventually shot it out. It was the go to for many years. It would be cool if you could get the factory Tupperware stocked rifle to shoot that good then go shoot a comp with it. You'd probably get some pretty good laughs from the competition. Until the shooting started lol.
I want you to do something similar to this with rimfire to showcase how an EC Tuner would work. Maybe a bergara/tikka/CZ totally stock with only a tuner.
This is awesome, I have the Oryx paired with a Howa 1500 .308 heavy barrel and I am really happy the way it shots. I would love to try a EC tuner. I am in Australia and I will look into purchasing what would make my rifle shoot better .
Would like to see if there is any difference if you completely blue printed , trued the action up. Leave number 1 as is and keep going with number 2 trued action ,after market barrel new trigger and springs and see how much more all the extra money actually gets you.
I'm curious what the results will be if you take it back to the factory stock with all the mods with and without the tuner break. Will it open back up?
Scratch the "control" idea and both of yall build your own rifles and stay under the 2500-2000 price range. Do it with factory loads, then maybe fine tune it with some hand loads. Do a video talking about changes made to your rifles and range results. Each of you have your own unique approach on preferred mods to make based on range results. Range test each mod. Don't do two or three mods then test. Keep the camera rolling Erik
Man! I hope my ADL project does as good. That is darn good for factory ammo. Now try some other cheap ammo and work that tuner! You should be able to adjust that trigger down some without having to buy one. Worth a try.
Congratulations for the video, very interesting. One question, the creedmoor barrel is bull barrel or conic? I want to fit an EC Turner to my CZ 455, but I don't know if it fits standard conic barrels. Thank you.
Hand Load them guys. Also, once you get done testing, match them both up exactly with the improvements and see how each one shoots. Be interesting to see if the barrels shoot different
For a side experiment, get them into an identical state, and stop cleaning one, other than an oiled patch down the barrel. Clean the snot out of the other one as normal.
Great video, this is what the "average guy" needs to improve his or her rifle to greatly improve accuracy and comfort. In fact it is the exact same thing i am doing to one of my rifles right now. Oh and when you are done you can send it to me lol, or raffle it off.
I did something similar. Took a $335 Savage Model 12 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Put it in an Oryx chassis. Had a gunsmith chamber a heavy (1.25”) 26” Shilen select match barrel and blueprint the action. Put in a 1 lb RifleBasix trigger and longer bolt handle. Added your BR EC Tuner Brake. I’ve got less than $2,000 in the gun (not counting a $900 Sightron scope). With my handloads (you’ve helped me there), I can shoot .3 MOA (5 shot) groups at 200 Yds. 1st shot at 400 was dead on. With the factory barrel, I shot 4 into 4.6” at 1,000 Yds. I’m not a pro shooter or special operator - started shooting 3 years ago at age 71.
my most accurate rifle is yhe same rifle, can shoot
.17 group at 100 and .5 at 1000, stock barrel.
I have been thinking about the MDT ORYX system for my Savage 110 Tactical in 308W, but my first range session went well bore cleaning revealed a bad barrel that shattered deeply marks were replaced with a Criterion barrel, but my question is, “what type of group(s) did you achieve with the factory stock, and improvement did achieve with the Oryx stock”? My Savage still sitting in the original stock.
@@rudolphferdinand3634 I have a Savage Model 10 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Put an Oryx MDT stock on it and never looked back. Do yourself a favor and put one on it. You will not regret it. As they stated in one of the first videos, the rifle is much more manageable and stable after the recoil. Much easier to keep on target. Groups were reduced as well. No comparison to the original stock.
You young guys always bragging 😂…. That’s awesome sir 💪🏾👍🏾
@@daleguthormsen8555lmao😂😂 bull
Huge respect for the 450 yard accuracy!
I can be biased for saying no one can deny how simple design Remington 700 is. Critics thumbs it down never the less it's copied by custom action makers, and to question the trigger issue, Quantico fielded it for a few decades and reported no such issue in the hands of our beloved servicemen. Good thing you guys put out such wonderful work.
Every rifle I've put that tuner brake on has had positive results. The thing is insane.
I love your enthusiasm about the price point of your tuner Eric, despite your best efforts companies like dominion outdoors out here in Canada have it jacked up to $350 already, plus shipping.
Cost for having a standard barrel threaded seems to be between $100 to $150 (more with recrown) plus about the same amount of petrol to get to a gunsmith out here that can do it for you after a 2 month wait. That $600 is already getting close to the initial cost of the firearm, and slightly higher cost then the Vortex Diamondback FFP that sits on top of many of my budget rifle builds.
Don't take this as a troll post, everyone here appreciates what you have done for the community for free with your content, and putting out a product like this is one step above. If anyone deserves a troll post its the guys taking the work off your back and reselling it for excessive profit.
Everyone wants a piece of the pie that’s how this old world works! It’s your job to find ways around the middle man so you can save a buck where possible! Been hunting reloading and collecting guns for 60 years now and I am always looking for a way to save a buck where possible and that is my job and yours to my friend!
I've done this same thing over the last year, but not factory ammo. I picked up an ADL Tactical in 6.5cm off the shelf for $400, came with a 20moa rail, heavy, threaded, varmint barrel. I put it in an oryx and bought a cheap brake while you were coming out with your tuner. Using my reloads and cheap Hornady bullets, it's sub 1/2 moa!
I noticed right away that the setup now seems to allow for almost no body movement during reload cycle, and the amount of gas going sideways from the brake is amazing!
Just sent my order in - can't wait to see it on my AICS AT and how it runs. I really love what you're doing and what is essentially outreach to the community on many levels. Yes, it's a business and I'm happy to support it.
SSG
The first thing that needs to be trashed when purchasing a 700 is the trigger!!!! Then the plastic stock like Eric stated!!! Thanks guys for putting this together!!!!!
I'm glad you guys found each other. Really like your content Eric. 👌
Triggertech primary for the money can't be beat. I have two of them, and I have a Timney, it's only real competition at the same price point, and the Triggertech is just better. It feels lighter than it really is because it has zero creep. Can't recommend them enough, 10/10. Just saw your idea about the factory stock. It looks like a cheek riser pouch setup like the ones from Triad Tactical might make it easier to shoot. They're like $60 and really good quality.
" It looks like a cheek riser pouch setup like the ones from Triad Tactical might make it easier to shoot' This or a cheap plastic bolt on for the same price and a $5 trigger spring from Mcarbo would have made half of the difference im convinced.. would love to see a poor mans version of this same series. Throw a $500 optic on there too.
@@foonus406 Not sure if you've ever taken a R700 apart, but the trigger doesn't have a replaceable coil spring like say a ruger american or browning a-bolt, etc. As far as the plastic bolt-on, to each his own I guess. I'm usually not willing to drill holes and put screws or bolts on my guns, but that's just my preference. I also have a cheap version of the triad from midway (their own brand) that probably works just as good. I'm not an elitist type, the triad just seems to fit the style of their build here better.
@@robertmajors1737 The bergara I have already came with a Triggertech, haven't had the chance to look at a stock one. Its one of the first things I do with the Tikkas and CZ I usually buy.
@@foonus406 Absolutely couldn't agree more. When I go to the range, I have to shoot my rifles with the Triggertechs last or it makes the other decent triggers feel awful. Especially in field shooting conditions, I think being able to break off the shot exactly when you want is maybe only secondary to good fundamentals. I refuse to own a rifle with a terrible trigger anymore, because you're never quite sure if it's you or the gun causing inaccuracy.
I have never tried a Primary because a few years back I got a special on sale really cheap. I bought another Diamond later.
I think the Special is probably the sweet spot when you're only paying a few bucks more than a Primary.
Good video erik...my rem 7prc shoots half in bell and Carson stock ..trigger teck 2lb
Trigger and Bolt then Ammo.
Then when all is done, put on an after market barrel. This will simulate what all of us will do eventually when factory barrel is worn out.
Thanks for GREAT channel
Hey guys great video. This is the kind of stuff I love to watch. If you made more of this kind of thing i would definitely tune in. As you know not everyone can afford a custom and this is attainable to most if they save a little. Good job!
Thanks for responding to the question of blueprinting. I thoroughly enjoy the videos, content and learning something with each video!
Hey guys, I'm loving the series.
The first thing that everybody says with a Rem. 700 at the range is "I have a trued Rem. 700" or a "blueprinted Rem. 700 action" and nearly always with upgraded triggers. Throughout this series, you have tinkered with both rifles and got them as good as you can with aftermarket "bolt-ons".
How about truly modifying your 3.5 MOA rifle with an Oryx chassis, a new cut rifled Brux barrel, blueprinting/trueing the action, lapping the bolt lugs, bolt spring and a trigger. This might actually see if all of those common gunsmithing and barrel upgrades are actually worth it, instead of the common accessory "bolt-ons".
I'd like to see what a trued action & cut-rifled barrel can do......then even add a tuner-brake.
With the anticipated results, I'm sure that you will not hurt any of your sponsors feelings and I'm sure that you could get a decent Brux barrel for the experiment.
Plus, we can see an easy $1.4k build vs a fully custom $2.5k build.
Just my 2c. Cheers guys.
I really like this idea
It's cool you guys did all this work before doing the trigger. If the trigger does add anything, we will know for sure and it will be a definitive answer.
This is awsome, I ran the same drill on a Ruger American chambered in 6.5 creed. With similar results….now I just need to get my hands on a EC Tuner brake.
Chassis tuner brake and AMMO. You got good fuel in there as well. Very cool series. Very cool.
Would be fun to add an adjustable inexpensive bolt-through kydex cheek riser to the factory plastic stock. Never done it but you may or may not have to add some foam inside the stock for rigidity. Also not sure what the foam will do to the balance.
These risers are likely the best way to get a consistent cheek weld on a cheap stock, I have several setups using them on plastic Tikka stocks, all of which shoot under half a minute or better with only that riser and a cheap $5 mcarbo trigger spring.
Okay so lets go backwards just a little, comparing from the start. Keepin the ammunition the same, stocks the same, scopes same. Where was the most significant change on rifle from the other? Would you agree it was the turner break? The other rifle in the comparison is shooting just the same but has no stock change except for lug bed and pillars or the tuner break. So personally IMHO the barrel had the issue and the tuner break made the correction almost 100%. Right?
I am not sure I agree, the 3.5 MOA rifle became a 1.5 MOA rifle with the stock change and then a 0.5 MOA rifle with the addition of the EZ. On paper the stock change would appear to be more significant. Only way to know for sure would be to put the barrel back in the original stock and see if it can shoot significantly better than 1.5 MOA.
Don't forget that they re-crowned the barrel when they threaded it for the tuner brake. If the barrel was actually the issue then the new crown could account for some portion of the increased accuracy. Impossible to know for sure since they did both at the same time. The fact that it shot the best group without adjusting the tuner at all might mean the re-crown did most of the work. Likely a combination of both. To test everything independently you'd need to test the new crown, then add a brake and then add the tuner and test each separately.
@@kalicom2937 I agree, some of the steps where skipped b/w both rifles. To be consistant you bed lug and pillar both stocks and check for change as it started. One Rifle Erick proved to be right with all changes except the T brake. The second took a leap to a new stock without anytime wasting from the original stock. And it improved just a little bit, but when the T Brake was added it improved well over 90%. The moral of the story IMHO. There are god barrels and bad ones. And some bad or just okay barrels, if you can find the harmonic tune that works for that barrel, I don't care what platform your put it on it will work. Just like you may find a barrel that is just bad, and no matter what you do they don't shoot.
My favorite part of this...
It's in a budget $400 Oryx chassis. I have the same on my Axis II 6.5. It's MOA all day with S&B 140gr and that's good enough for me. I only put a couple hundred rounds through it before COVID blew up and I haven't really give back to it yet.
Glad to see that re-crowning was part of the install of the tuner brake. You looked at the bolt lug contact and gave it a "looks okay". If this was your PRS rifle okay would not be good enough. You need to lap it to full contact. Getting to full contact causes the "take-up" of the action production tolerances that leads to more consistent bolt lock. Don't settle for Okay.
Just ordered one for my Bergara B14 HMR Premier 6.5CM. I can’t wait!
Very nice. I did a build on a 700 chamber in 308 . The bolt spring and trigger and chassis made a huge difference for me
I've watched all of these within an hour of posting just because i purchased a Remington 700 Adl chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. And i plan on using it for hunting this year but i also plan on getting into shooting semi long range
That's a good plan. Long range is such a blast!
Please do trigger and spring, then shoot it. Then do load development and show the process and result. If not here, do it on patreon. Thx!
#1 stiffen the fore end to elimanate flexing while on the bipod. perhapes also add weight to the stock. throw on a cheek peice thing. ec tuner brake and trigger, bolt spring
Something they may be interesting: compare the pillar bedded factory rifle to the chassis/tuner gun with handloads vs tuning. Show the whole process and expense of developing a load vs the cost of the tuner break.
Great summary, good to see what is possible on a working man’s budget
Ya! It needs our new round "7mm ML PRC" It is a 7mm bullet in a 6.5 PRC case. We have barrels dies and mandrels to upsize the 6.5 PRC case. We started developing this round in 2019. All finished getting ready for Sammi. 411Tactical, Inc. 162 grn bullet 3,100 FPS. At 500 yards 20 percent more energy that a 300-win mag with 38 percent less recoil. This will be the super cartridge.
Take it to your next PRS match!🤔
Great video as always. You forgot to mention you have a $400 bipod on the rig. It would have been great to see you thread the barrel, install the tuner break and show and explain the tuning process. It was great to watch Jason drill those holes with zero movement!
We can’t show any gun modifications on TH-cam.
@@ErikCortina figures ...
If y’all put the original stock back on you might think about doing what I did is adding weight to the but end of the stock and filling it with something. I did this to a ruger American 6.5. I used some of that silicone mold stuff and pvc pipe with bird shot in it. Made a world of difference.
Put the chassis and tuner brake on the other rifle and see if the performance improvement transfers. Trigger springs? Lap lugs? Firing pin spring? True bolt face? Lap barrel? Work up a hand load? New trigger? Plenty of content available.
and FACTORY AMMO !!! VERY nice guys ! ......you also re-cut the Crown.....which is one of my personal most important things that usually needs attention.....now, do the trigger.....some handloads, and hummmmmmm.......OnWard.....
Good job fellas. I had a feeling the tuner break would greatly improve the gun, and it did not disappoint.
Cool video guys.. really enjoyed keeping up with what was going on.....
I'm impressed! That 3 MOA 'pattern' was so ugly I had no expectation you'd hit .5 MOA. Really cool!
You guys are having just the right amount of fun
Love the series. Good information at you're expense. Plus you may sell lots more EC Tuners. Let's see how the control rifle does with the Tuner.
My stock Savage 12FV (bought used for $300) will do that, shoot sub 1/2moa with good glass and my handloads. I have the targets to prove it. The rifle's biggest problem is me, the shooter. Need to work on that one, make those 5 shot .342" groups the norm instead of being the exception.
I prefer the Triggertech trigger on my Bergara B14. I chose the same Oryx chassis and liked it so well, I switched a couple of my other rifles over to Oryx.
You can take the brake off to see if the recrown only made a difference. Also, fire lap the barrel. Lock time probably won't make a difference, but trigger upgrade might; both are worth a try.
The most effective upgrade to this plain rifle is no doubt the "EC Tuner" brake. I'll definitely buy one if you'd ship it oversea mate!
We do ship overseas depending on the location
How about lapping the barrel to see if that help?
You can run some of those Tubb lapping bullets through it. You'll be able to review his bullets at the sametime.
I'm sure the tuner was a significant help in improving the accuracy.
Do you think recrowning also played a role? I would think it would have.
Yeah, it's impossible to isolate the difference one aspect is making when you change multiple things at once. The barrel crown is one of the most important aspects of accuracy. I've seen some truly terrible factory crown jobs which when remedied cut groups to a third of what they were previous. The fact that it immediately shot the best group when the tuner was attached without any adjustment actually lends credence to the idea that the crown made a lot of the difference.
@@MMBRM luckily they can actually test this now - all they have to do is take off the tuner brake and compare the bare muzzle against the old results
@@newerest1 I would like to see the other rifle have its crown re-cut and not thread it for a brake. Threading will remove metal and possibly affect harmonics.
10 thing that you can do to the basic rifle to improve accuracy and recrowning is one of them but should be one of the last because out of the hundreds yes hundreds of rifles I have owned over the last 69 years I have only had a couple that it made any real improvement in!
Crowning is a myth, you can jack it up and it may even improve accuracy
Next I would like to see how it performs with just a simple lightening of the factory trigger before you fellas put a new trigger on it . The cost of lightening up the trigger compared to a new Timney or Trigger Tech Diamond or Canjar or Jewell triggers would be significant amount of money saved .
Great project/series
I’d like to throw out an idea from left field .
Either in this project or a standalone.
Get a Lee Loader ( the type that you use a hammer ) and see what accuracy you can get loading with it .
There is no cheaper way to get into reloading.
I know it goes against your dislike of neck sizing, but boy it would be interesting to see what quality of ammo you could create , with the average Joe hunter/shooter in mind .
Erik, really enjoying this series. My thoughts would be to put the other one back into the factory stock and see what you can do with your hand loads. I essentially did similar with a 700 about 30 years ago in 30-06. I was very pleased as it turned out to be a great hunting rig. I did have a trigger job done on the factory trigger set to 3.5 pounds. Thanks !
I have an Axis2 that out of the box is a .75 MOA rifle. And that's with the POS stock!
I'm building a Remington 783 16.5" 308 using the same chassis & tuner 🙏🏻 it shoots good
Great channel!
Y’all should also try hand loading for it to get full potential!
Hopefully they read this comment.
We are discussing this option.
This has been a fun series to watch and follow.
One of your best videos yet E.C.!
I had a factory sps in 22-250 years ago that would do 1/2 moa no problem. Eventually shot it out. It was the go to for many years.
It would be cool if you could get the factory Tupperware stocked rifle to shoot that good then go shoot a comp with it. You'd probably get some pretty good laughs from the competition. Until the shooting started lol.
Do the the bolt Shoot it then Auction it off to some deserving guy that can't afford a custom gun Eric 👌
Been watching this series with interest. Great idea, well thought out and incredible results. Congratulations.
My 6.5"N.M." with a Shaw did same zero was the magic setting...
I would love to see the other one set up in a hunting configuration with bedded stock.
I want you to do something similar to this with rimfire to showcase how an EC Tuner would work. Maybe a bergara/tikka/CZ totally stock with only a tuner.
As Gunny Ermey would say, "Outstanding!"
This is awesome, I have the Oryx paired with a Howa 1500 .308 heavy barrel and I am really happy the way it shots. I would love to try a EC tuner. I am in Australia and I will look into purchasing what would make my rifle shoot better .
We ship to Australia
Getting it done!
I have a Grendel barreled action in my safe. This is the setup I’m waiting to make.
if you see my question mr cortina i would like yo know what kind of barrel you put on the oryx chassis good video 🙈😁👌👍🏼
I like where this is going. 👍👍
Would like to see if there is any difference if you completely blue printed , trued the action up.
Leave number 1 as is and keep going with number 2 trued action ,after market barrel new trigger and springs and see how much more all the extra money actually gets you.
Very, very impressive & encouraging.
New trigger and load development!!!
If you have re crowned the barrel, this is indeed probably what made the biggest difference
I did notice how stabel it was, I also noticed how stable it was. 🤓
Run through load development for the rifle. Would love to see if reloading makes an impact
I get 1/2 moa groups with my model 70 featherweight with a boss system, I swear by barrel tuners
I'm curious what the results will be if you take it back to the factory stock with all the mods with and without the tuner break. Will it open back up?
Did you buy the Oryx chassis? Or was it provided by the company?
It needs no more! Great series guys
My hunting rifles love EC TUNER Brakes! You cannot have mine back! Nope! I will be ordering #3 soon enough!
BTW Nice Shooting!!!
Scratch the "control" idea and both of yall build your own rifles and stay under the 2500-2000 price range. Do it with factory loads, then maybe fine tune it with some hand loads. Do a video talking about changes made to your rifles and range results. Each of you have your own unique approach on preferred mods to make based on range results. Range test each mod. Don't do two or three mods then test. Keep the camera rolling Erik
Man! I hope my ADL project does as good. That is darn good for factory ammo. Now try some other cheap ammo and work that tuner!
You should be able to adjust that trigger down some without having to buy one. Worth a try.
Outstanding!
Trigger, Handloads, barrel. Give it away.
The stock stock had the best first time firing . It would be interesting to see the rifle back into it .
That was the other rifle.
I’m curious if the bolt spring from David Tubb would work.
The only way I can see to go further is with trigger honing and looking at bolt springs and firing pin.
That sounds good. I can't wait for the head to head😅
Congratulations for the video, very interesting. One question, the creedmoor barrel is bull barrel or conic? I want to fit an EC Turner to my CZ 455, but I don't know if it fits standard conic barrels. Thank you.
Hand Load them guys. Also, once you get done testing, match them both up exactly with the improvements and see how each one shoots. Be interesting to see if the barrels shoot different
For a side experiment, get them into an identical state, and stop cleaning one, other than an oiled patch down the barrel. Clean the snot out of the other one as normal.
I want to say that I loved this video. I watched it multiple times. The one thing I missed is what make of rifle this is ? Factory Barrel ?
I'm pretty impressed.
Great series! Hope to see one with Ruger.
Do the trigger on the other one and leave the rest and compare brake to trigger results
Bed the recoil lug and see if it makes it better. Always wondered how much a pillar bedded stock improves with a lug bed.
This latest video you install a tuner brake. What about a suppressor? How would that affect accuracy?
I would love to see the full process of developing the perfect reload for this gun. please
Great video, this is what the "average guy" needs to improve his or her rifle to greatly improve accuracy and comfort. In fact it is the exact same thing i am doing to one of my rifles right now. Oh and when you are done you can send it to me lol, or raffle it off.
Thank you for sharing your research
You've made a believer out of me, dang! I wonder if I should save for a tuner brake 🤔
You both were quite surprised by the accuracy of this production barrel. You should shoot a PRS target for score at 600 and 1000 yards.
Sorry I meant F-Class to see how many Xs you can hit