I had (2) ‘87 performers back in the day…the pink one and the white one….man i wish i would of held on to some of the MANY bmx’s i had back then…..they sell for LOOT nowadays
Bought the reissue new GT Powerdisc but could not get it to work with my vintage GT Power Series cranks as i love the retro look. Was too thick when i test fitted on the drive side. Will research further.
Metric M6 Allen key is needed. I mention that in the video. A pop up picture shows it. Don’t use a standard Allen key or you can round off the internal hex.
@JseriesRacing There are two reasons for this. 1) You don’t have the SR made 1986-1990 GT Power series cranks but rather the 2014-2023 Dorel GT Power Series reproduction cranks. See the video below for the differences. Or 2) The spindle bolts are not original. I’ve CNC machined them a few years ago so I know all the dimensions of the bolts. Trust me the hex area is broached and 6mm. th-cam.com/video/VAqKcz1vlVY/w-d-xo.html
@@NikeChecksHtx here is the video of the replacement spindle bolts I had made a few years ago for the BMXMUSEUM. th-cam.com/video/yv_JNU0ny5w/w-d-xo.html Trust me the hex area is 6mm.
I got mine from Ultrahive but he is no longer making them. There is a person on Evilbay offering them. www.ebay.com/itm/255672652406?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dlOYxiVzTfq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=L-fPn3MNSY6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Good luck
Finally a new vid! Nice to see someone actually install these on video. This bike is beautiful, love those aztec decals with blue, and those whale tales are $$$ they've gone up alot. Where can i get a restored 88 disc like that with white? Did you restore it yourself and apply the decal?
Hey bud I had the original disc but it was faded and scratched. I took the disc and polished it then sent it out to C4 labs for powder. Finally I used a high quality transfer decal from a BMXMuseum member.
Very cool information on our '80's GTs. I wonder if you can tell us why the TEAM models seemed to come with the square shaped pedals shown here, and the 1-piece crank models came with the parallelogram pedals. As a kid, I always thought the square TEAM model pedals were cooler because they came on the TEAM models. However, after riding flat in the '90's, I learned there is a functional reason for the parallelogram design which makes them preferable to any square shaped pedal. Any info or a video on this would be great! Also who manufactured these pedals and what was the little black (or yellow) plastic thing for on the square TEAM pedals for? Looks like something that would break eventually. Thank you!
@corrioliseffect 1987 was a busy year for GT. They introduced the double bend frame for the Pro Performer and PFT/TM, they starting using the GT power series 3 pc cranks for their top team models, Superlace hubs were introduced, the 990 u brake mounts were added on the PP/PFT, the gyro was first utilized on the production bikes, zoot scoots arrived….you name it. So there were some things that were not always the way they should have been. With that said let’s take a look at the 1 pc crank vs 3 pc crank. OPC were always caged ball bottom bracket for the freestyle bikes and more entry lever cranks. The peddle threads were always 1/2”. Now there are 1/2” spindles by SR for the SP-474 pedals (square shaped pedals as you refer to them) but SR SP-474 we’re too shelf BITD. Chosen by the riders for the big platform shape and rubber grip pad (the piece that looks plastic) to keep their feet planted better. GT power series 3pc cranks were always 9/16” threaded boss. 9/16” spindles were also stronger than 1/2”. So SR SP-474 were usually the pedals for the PFTTM. But not always the case. Sometimes and we don’t always understand why, Shimano DX pedals were used. Could be stock availability. Don’t know why 100%. In 1988 GT stuck with the SR SP-474 pedals for the team models. As for the shape of the pedal and how well it made a difference riding, I can’t comment. I only had a PFT when I was a kid so I never rode with SR SP-474’s. Hopefully they helps answer your questions. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@atrains thank you for all the detailed information. I noticed that in the ‘87 catalog, both the Team Model and the PFT are sporting both the same pedals (the slanted ones) However, in ‘88, ‘89 and I think ‘90 the catalog Team Models are equipped with the square pedals. I never knew the correct name of these pedals because the only Team Model I ever had was a ‘94. I have an ‘88 PFT, and it has the slanted pedals. When I rode flatland in the ‘90s, I knew a slanted (parallelogram, as DMC referred to them) pedal design was needed because when riding out of a trick, the square pedals get stuck sideways under your feet. You end up riding away standing in the side of the pedal rather than the platform. Happened to me 1,000 times before I switched to Primo pedals, which use a sharp parallelogram shape. However, for my ‘87 GT dream bike (PFT-TM in blue) I would stick with the square pedals because that’s how they came, and they look pretty cool. 👍😎
I am not 100% sure but I think it was CW who had the first laid back seat posts and as early as 1982. The reason they made laid back seat posts is that the seat tube angle is too steep for most people. When you started to do flatland (early days we called it freestyle) a bar spin would almost always make contact with the seat. Setting the seat back with the laid back post allowed for unobstructed bar rotation. Why we rode with the seat post and seat so high was for a few reasons. 1) It was the style in the 80's and early 90's. 2) The handlebars when turned 90 degrees would line up with the seat nose allowing you to grab the front of the seat and the handle bar grip simultaneously to perform certain tricks. 3) The seat being that high up would also serve as a rest against your arm for doing rolling tricks. 4) We also rode these bikes as transportation so we sat down and peddled or coasted especially when there was a hill to go down. When mid school came out the super high seat posts faded away and now with the new school crowd they absolutely laugh when they see seat posts this high. The seats now are basically mounted for show, they are nearly impossible to sit on and ride at the same time, you will notice all the riders now have to stand when they are "travelling" on their bikes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@atrains Thanks man appreciate it . I’ve never been able to sit down and pedal lol it’s for coasting and sitting you always got to stand up to pedal lol I run about a fist 👊🏽 worth of seatpost not totally slammed
@@atrains They laugh at the tall post but i die laughing at the low seat,feels like riding a small kids bikes and your legs go up to your head almost when sitting and pedaling,lol. Dizz Hicks had a dyo drain pipe on his cw and swapped it backwards to be closer to the bars for tricks.
having your seat post up high saves you from destroying your knees when seated cruising around for long periods of time. These bikes were not only meant for rad freestyle tricks, but also for transportation/paper routes all around town/city. When your seat is dirt nasty low, riding around while seated will cause your knees lots of pain, especially as you age.
@@kevinrodriguez9701 nice I never thought about it like that I don't really sit down and pedal on my bike my seat's pretty slammed but thanks for the info & let's keep on riding ..
It’s pretty straight forward as the drive side has a larger diameter thread and the hatnut bottoms out on it. You can only mount it one way. The side of the spindle that has the slot or groove for the lock ring is always the non-drive side. It’s pretty idiot proof. As for the arms, the originals had a boss with a special cap cap screw to engage the sprocket hole. The other arm was void of this screw and boss. I hope this helps.
Wish i still have my original box. Any chance i can get a scan of the instructions?? I bought mine GT Power Series cranks back in the late 1980s. Still have everything and the T handle tool. Wish i have the box and instructions to display!!! I was OCD before OCD was a name. Reason i added clear packing tape over the logos then!! :-) Will be going back to my 1985 HUTCH Trickstar F&F. Collecting parts to bring it back to 99% of what it looked like in the 1980s.
@landmisfitcomics Hey thanks for watching and commenting! I do not own that box nor do I have the instructions that may have come with them. Sorry I can’t assist further.
@@atrains Thanks for the quick reply. WOW we like a lot of the same stuff. I will be uploading pics of my vintage highly modified FROG and Grasshopper soon. Take a peek at our channel too. Cheers.
@@LandMisfitComics Cool! Absolutely will do! I have a highly modified Monster Beetle (reissue) with an MIP diff, AmPro suspension and misc parts and a 10.5T brushless Tamiya motor. Fun truck and gets a lot of attention. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@atrains Hi just uploaded many pictures of our upgraded 1983 TAMIYA FROG with .50 Caliber Customs CNC aluminum rear trailing arms from 2010 and a custom all metal telescoping driveshaft. I included 411 on how to make your own if you ever get a FROG or ORV chassis :-) Link below. th-cam.com/video/mcBeVkDJeco/w-d-xo.htmlsi=a7rqi3j_ZO6bEUgA
I had (2) ‘87 performers back in the day…the pink one and the white one….man i wish i would of held on to some of the MANY bmx’s i had back then…..they sell for LOOT nowadays
Goodjob my man. Love the color of that gt.
What are those big white things on the rear drop out. Holding the wheel on?
@@haroldlewis7200 frame standers
Nice bike! My favorite frame 😍
This is pretty cool
Not trying to pick at your install, but isn't it normal to lube the spindle with some philwood grease or the like?
@@j0hnnykn0xv1lle not required at all. The spindle doesn’t touch the bearings at all.
@@atrains ah ok thanks!
Bought the reissue new GT Powerdisc but could not get it to work with my vintage GT Power Series cranks as i love the retro look. Was too thick when i test fitted on the drive side. Will research further.
Let me look into this a bit.
The bicycle really should be right side up in a repair stand when installing a crankset.
I’ll take that into consideration for the next time. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What size is the hex key
Metric M6 Allen key is needed. I mention that in the video. A pop up picture shows it. Don’t use a standard Allen key or you can round off the internal hex.
@@atrains mine was a 8mm
@JseriesRacing There are two reasons for this. 1) You don’t have the SR made 1986-1990 GT Power series cranks but rather the 2014-2023 Dorel GT Power Series reproduction cranks. See the video below for the differences. Or 2) The spindle bolts are not original. I’ve CNC machined them a few years ago so I know all the dimensions of the bolts. Trust me the hex area is broached and 6mm.
th-cam.com/video/VAqKcz1vlVY/w-d-xo.html
@@NikeChecksHtx here is the video of the replacement spindle bolts I had made a few years ago for the BMXMUSEUM.
th-cam.com/video/yv_JNU0ny5w/w-d-xo.html
Trust me the hex area is 6mm.
@@atrains the top bolt us 6mm the middle spindle is 8mm I have a 2021 gt pro series
Looks very nice Where u get graffix from if u don't mind me asking I have old gt vertigo and dyno comp I would like to touch up they clean 80%
I got mine from Ultrahive but he is no longer making them. There is a person on Evilbay offering them.
www.ebay.com/itm/255672652406?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dlOYxiVzTfq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=L-fPn3MNSY6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Good luck
Finally a new vid! Nice to see someone actually install these on video. This bike is beautiful, love those aztec decals with blue, and those whale tales are $$$ they've gone up alot. Where can i get a restored 88 disc like that with white? Did you restore it yourself and apply the decal?
Hey bud I had the original disc but it was faded and scratched. I took the disc and polished it then sent it out to C4 labs for powder. Finally I used a high quality transfer decal from a BMXMuseum member.
Very cool information on our '80's GTs. I wonder if you can tell us why the TEAM models seemed to come with the square shaped pedals shown here, and the 1-piece crank models came with the parallelogram pedals. As a kid, I always thought the square TEAM model pedals were cooler because they came on the TEAM models. However, after riding flat in the '90's, I learned there is a functional reason for the parallelogram design which makes them preferable to any square shaped pedal. Any info or a video on this would be great! Also who manufactured these pedals and what was the little black (or yellow) plastic thing for on the square TEAM pedals for? Looks like something that would break eventually. Thank you!
@corrioliseffect 1987 was a busy year for GT. They introduced the double bend frame for the Pro Performer and PFT/TM, they starting using the GT power series 3 pc cranks for their top team models, Superlace hubs were introduced, the 990 u brake mounts were added on the PP/PFT, the gyro was first utilized on the production bikes, zoot scoots arrived….you name it. So there were some things that were not always the way they should have been. With that said let’s take a look at the 1 pc crank vs 3 pc crank.
OPC were always caged ball bottom bracket for the freestyle bikes and more entry lever cranks. The peddle threads were always 1/2”. Now there are 1/2” spindles by SR for the SP-474 pedals (square shaped pedals as you refer to them) but SR SP-474 we’re too shelf BITD. Chosen by the riders for the big platform shape and rubber grip pad (the piece that looks plastic) to keep their feet planted better. GT power series 3pc cranks were always 9/16” threaded boss. 9/16” spindles were also stronger than 1/2”. So SR SP-474 were usually the pedals for the PFTTM. But not always the case. Sometimes and we don’t always understand why, Shimano DX pedals were used. Could be stock availability. Don’t know why 100%.
In 1988 GT stuck with the SR SP-474 pedals for the team models.
As for the shape of the pedal and how well it made a difference riding, I can’t comment. I only had a PFT when I was a kid so I never rode with SR SP-474’s. Hopefully they helps answer your questions. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@atrains thank you for all the detailed information. I noticed that in the ‘87 catalog, both the Team Model and the PFT are sporting both the same pedals (the slanted ones) However, in ‘88, ‘89 and I think ‘90 the catalog Team Models are equipped with the square pedals. I never knew the correct name of these pedals because the only Team Model I ever had was a ‘94. I have an ‘88 PFT, and it has the slanted pedals. When I rode flatland in the ‘90s, I knew a slanted (parallelogram, as DMC referred to them) pedal design was needed because when riding out of a trick, the square pedals get stuck sideways under your feet. You end up riding away standing in the side of the pedal rather than the platform. Happened to me 1,000 times before I switched to Primo pedals, which use a sharp parallelogram shape. However, for my ‘87 GT dream bike (PFT-TM in blue) I would stick with the square pedals because that’s how they came, and they look pretty cool. 👍😎
Who was the first company to do the laid back post that’s super high ? And why ?
I am not 100% sure but I think it was CW who had the first laid back seat posts and as early as 1982. The reason they made laid back seat posts is that the seat tube angle is too steep for most people. When you started to do flatland (early days we called it freestyle) a bar spin would almost always make contact with the seat. Setting the seat back with the laid back post allowed for unobstructed bar rotation. Why we rode with the seat post and seat so high was for a few reasons. 1) It was the style in the 80's and early 90's. 2) The handlebars when turned 90 degrees would line up with the seat nose allowing you to grab the front of the seat and the handle bar grip simultaneously to perform certain tricks. 3) The seat being that high up would also serve as a rest against your arm for doing rolling tricks. 4) We also rode these bikes as transportation so we sat down and peddled or coasted especially when there was a hill to go down.
When mid school came out the super high seat posts faded away and now with the new school crowd they absolutely laugh when they see seat posts this high. The seats now are basically mounted for show, they are nearly impossible to sit on and ride at the same time, you will notice all the riders now have to stand when they are "travelling" on their bikes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@atrains Thanks man appreciate it . I’ve never been able to sit down and pedal lol it’s for coasting and sitting you always got to stand up to pedal lol I run about a fist 👊🏽 worth of seatpost not totally slammed
@@atrains They laugh at the tall post but i die laughing at the low seat,feels like riding a small kids bikes and your legs go up to your head almost when sitting and pedaling,lol. Dizz Hicks had a dyo drain pipe on his cw and swapped it backwards to be closer to the bars for tricks.
having your seat post up high saves you from destroying your knees when seated cruising around for long periods of time. These bikes were not only meant for rad freestyle tricks, but also for transportation/paper routes all around town/city. When your seat is dirt nasty low, riding around while seated will cause your knees lots of pain, especially as you age.
@@kevinrodriguez9701 nice I never thought about it like that I don't really sit down and pedal on my bike my seat's pretty slammed but thanks for the info & let's keep on riding ..
You got me , mid life 😂
$ick build!!!! Nice install tips!!!!
Are you still going to make a installation video on the new power series cranks?
I have plans for it. Just need to find some time.
How do you tell drive side from non drive side? Thanks
It’s pretty straight forward as the drive side has a larger diameter thread and the hatnut bottoms out on it. You can only mount it one way. The side of the spindle that has the slot or groove for the lock ring is always the non-drive side. It’s pretty idiot proof. As for the arms, the originals had a boss with a special cap cap screw to engage the sprocket hole. The other arm was void of this screw and boss. I hope this helps.
You have a nice haircut.
I agree. I was hoping someone would notice. Thanks for commenting.
Take a look at my page, I have a few bikes myself
I did!!!! Love the videos
@@atrains thanks . Keep on doing what your doing my man
Wish i still have my original box. Any chance i can get a scan of the instructions?? I bought mine GT Power Series cranks back in the late 1980s. Still have everything and the T handle tool. Wish i have the box and instructions to display!!! I was OCD before OCD was a name. Reason i added clear packing tape over the logos then!! :-) Will be going back to my 1985 HUTCH Trickstar F&F. Collecting parts to bring it back to 99% of what it looked like in the 1980s.
@landmisfitcomics Hey thanks for watching and commenting! I do not own that box nor do I have the instructions that may have come with them. Sorry I can’t assist further.
@@atrains Thanks for the quick reply. WOW we like a lot of the same stuff. I will be uploading pics of my vintage highly modified FROG and Grasshopper soon. Take a peek at our channel too. Cheers.
@@LandMisfitComics Cool! Absolutely will do! I have a highly modified Monster Beetle (reissue) with an MIP diff, AmPro suspension and misc parts and a 10.5T brushless Tamiya motor. Fun truck and gets a lot of attention. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@atrains Hi just uploaded many pictures of our upgraded 1983 TAMIYA FROG with .50 Caliber Customs CNC aluminum rear trailing arms from 2010 and a custom all metal telescoping driveshaft. I included 411 on how to make your own if you ever get a FROG or ORV chassis :-) Link below. th-cam.com/video/mcBeVkDJeco/w-d-xo.htmlsi=a7rqi3j_ZO6bEUgA