A very common repair in older vehicles- especially LRs, but really nice to see this out there to help encourage others to fix it themselves! Another great video Steve.
What great timing. I’ll be replacing my water pump this week and since the fan has to come off I may as well do the main seal too. Typical Rover oil bath down below right now.
Wow. You seem to post the perfect video at the perfect time. Was thinking of fixing my leak yesterday when I noticed the pavement was starting to look like an old greasy pizza box. Happy to see a video that makes it look easy
Thanks, love the video and how you showed the what the oil leak on ground looked like. I'm bit nervous about taking fan out still. Would be completely spoilt if you Could you show how to stop other common leaks like the engine pan, powersteering and differentials and the tools used as that is often confusing
@@schoolguy10 The harmonic balancer? I did the ratchet strap method. Loop the long end of a ratchet strap around it as many times as you can and as tight as you can, then attach the strap to the frame nearby. Obviously make sure you wrap in the direction that’s opposite the direction you will be loosening the bolt.
Really enjoying your Disco videos. It will be great if you can build one for overlanding and take it on an epic trip. Nice to see you bring life back to dying vehicles.
I always thought those crankshaft pulley nuts were super tight. Did you just keep the car in a high gear when loosening it off? When you did it back up, was it with a 3/4” sized socket rather than the 1/2” type and torque wrench?
Nice one Steve. The older the landrover (real Landrovers) owners had a saying = they leak oil to mark there territory.. lol. I had an early 3 door Discovery Diesel that was so oil tight, the sump pan actually went rusty from underneath on its 200 TDi engine, a real old fashioned run for ever turbo diesel that always started without heater plugs, just a shame you never got that engine version out in the States.. Anyway, great Video as usual, thank you - Ian - UK.
Nice to see someone enjoying a LandRover, instead of slagging them off. They seem to have a terrible reputation, especially the newer ones. It was interesting to watch someone do a repair *without* loads of drama, although the keyboard warriors seem to think they could have done it better - no surprises there then.😁
I noticed the location of the coil pack. The original location from the factory is behind the intake manifold between the firewall and is a PITA to replace. Someone made a custom bracket and custom length wire set. - can you post some more picks on how they did that? making custom brackets and wires is probably the same amount of time it would take to just replace the coil pack. =)
How did you manage to get the crank pulley bolt loose (and tightened) just by using a wrench? Doesn’t the engine spin while trying to do that since it’s torqued to 200 lb ft?
Hey Steve, great job. I did notice some bubbling at the joint of the oil pump case and block as you were tapping the crank pulley in place. Once you cleaned it all up and checked the engine for further leaks did that joint remain intact and leak-free?
Steve or Anyone: What was that torque setting? I have the GEMS engine in my 98 D1, so same block. Can’t find it on the interweb yet and my seal is on its way.
The main seals on an engine should not leak as the oil is held in by vacuum. If they do leak it is normally a blockage in the breather system. Often it is the restricted part at the manifold connection.
Thanks, Steve. Despite your vehicle needing the work done, it's generous of you to show how it's done. Odd how there are a couple of dickheads giving the thumbs down sign! 😒
@@ctbritva3623 leave the serpentine belt on and stuff a rag between the pulley and the belt. It will act as a wedge to keep the engine from spinning. You could also take the fan out and put the socket and breaker bar on and let it rest against the truck and go bump the Ignition once or twice
@@matth4069 thank you brother - I’ll have to try that method another time. Since I needed to remove the sump anyway, I lodged a 2x4 in between a thick part of the block (at the back of the engine) and a piston counterweight, then cracked the bolt loose with a 4’ breaker bar and a 15/16 socket, which worked well. I’ve also got an impact wrench now that might do the job in the future. I’ve had to leash a lot to make this happen, but I’ve got a bit more experience in all of this now. Thank you again. I’ll have to try tapping the wrench with the starter sometime if I can’t remove the sump and the impact wrench doesn’t do the job.
@@neur0pathy yeah my milwaukee stubby impact made short work of mine but I know not everyone has such luxuries so those are two solid shade tree mechanic tips that require little effort haha. Bumping the starter with a breaker bar on the bolt always works as long as you have it sitting on the correct side so it doesnt become a medieval weapon. Glad you got it figured out brother
Good video, but you made the fatal mistake of putting back the original, old crankshaft bolt !!! Disco 2 crankshaft bolts are known as 'Stretch Bolts' and MUST be replaced with a brand new bolt when replaced, as once used, they stretch ( Hence their name ! ) and become slightly longer than when new, rendering them not to be useable with 100% certainty. . A so call ? 'Land Rover Specialist' garage in Nerja, Spain, did exactly what you did and put the old bolt back in my Disco 2 (2002) and within 100 kilometres, it had vibrated loose and I lost all power steering and air con etc, but worse still, the crankshaft pulley, which is a Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley had 'wobbled' about whilst loosened on the on the crankshaft, despite the Woodruff key, and worn the end of the crankshaft from the original state of machined to be perfectly round to being ever so slightly 'Oval' End result ? An engine that vibrates more than before and needs regular oil seal changes to the crankshaft which has leaked ever since. Estimated cost to replace crankshaft (Which is still perfect today, other than the cowboy garage destroying its integrity ! ) close to 4,000€ 😞
A very common repair in older vehicles- especially LRs, but really nice to see this out there to help encourage others to fix it themselves! Another great video Steve.
Steve: How did you lock up the engine to keep it from turning?
I like your direct approach to your videos. No music while wrenching, great, more please
What great timing. I’ll be replacing my water pump this week and since the fan has to come off I may as well do the main seal too. Typical Rover oil bath down below right now.
Thank you for taking the time. i have a 1996 Series 1 disco and the same issue so now cn get it fixed.
Thanks for the update. Loving the Disco videos, please do more.
Wow. You seem to post the perfect video at the perfect time. Was thinking of fixing my leak yesterday when I noticed the pavement was starting to look like an old greasy pizza box. Happy to see a video that makes it look easy
Great but how did you hold the pulley while you were tightening???
Thanks, love the video and how you showed the what the oil leak on ground looked like. I'm bit nervous about taking fan out still. Would be completely spoilt if you Could you show how to stop other common leaks like the engine pan, powersteering and differentials and the tools used as that is often confusing
Great video. What type of sealant and grease did you use on the seal?
I have the same questions
How did you keep it from turning?
@@schoolguy10 The harmonic balancer? I did the ratchet strap method. Loop the long end of a ratchet strap around it as many times as you can and as tight as you can, then attach the strap to the frame nearby. Obviously make sure you wrap in the direction that’s opposite the direction you will be loosening the bolt.
Lots of questions with no answers, how come??
Do you remember what size socket is used for the crankshaft pulley bolt? Is the Bosch engine bolt also pulled to 200 lb-ft?
I always seem to learn something watching your videos.
Should have checked for a wear ridge on the pulley, not the crank. Hopefully it’s good.
Great video.thank you. Let’s see more repair work on Discos
Really enjoying your Disco videos. It will be great if you can build one for overlanding and take it on an epic trip. Nice to see you bring life back to dying vehicles.
Outstanding video and editing
I always thought those crankshaft pulley nuts were super tight. Did you just keep the car in a high gear when loosening it off? When you did it back up, was it with a 3/4” sized socket rather than the 1/2” type and torque wrench?
Nice one Steve. The older the landrover (real Landrovers) owners had a saying = they leak oil to mark there territory.. lol. I had an early 3 door Discovery Diesel that was so oil tight, the sump pan actually went rusty from underneath on its 200 TDi engine, a real old fashioned run for ever turbo diesel that always started without heater plugs, just a shame you never got that engine version out in the States.. Anyway, great Video as usual, thank you - Ian - UK.
OK, how did you stop the crank turning when torquing the crank pulley to such a high value?
Good question. Put it in gear with the brake on?
You should share the cleaning process!
Nice to see someone enjoying a LandRover, instead of slagging them off. They seem to have a terrible reputation, especially the newer ones. It was interesting to watch someone do a repair *without* loads of drama, although the keyboard warriors seem to think they could have done it better - no surprises there then.😁
More Discovery videos please. Thanks for this one.
There is a huge disco video coming soon!
I noticed the location of the coil pack. The original location from the factory is behind the intake manifold between the firewall and is a PITA to replace. Someone made a custom bracket and custom length wire set. - can you post some more picks on how they did that? making custom brackets and wires is probably the same amount of time it would take to just replace the coil pack. =)
Yeah there's a dude that sells a relocation package. Got it on my 03 disco. Absolutely worth every penny.
i remember when they were new, they were a common sight on UK roads for a decade plus
Lovely to see a non rusty example!
How did you manage to get the crank pulley bolt loose (and tightened) just by using a wrench? Doesn’t the engine spin while trying to do that since it’s torqued to 200 lb ft?
I'm having somewhat similar big puddles but I usually see the drops in a more horizontal line would that be the pull pan gasket??
Hey Steve, great job. I did notice some bubbling at the joint of the oil pump case and block as you were tapping the crank pulley in place. Once you cleaned it all up and checked the engine for further leaks did that joint remain intact and leak-free?
He there Steve,,another great video,,something I can do myself,, thanks.
Is this a keeper Steve or do you sell it ? Thanks .
Does the oil need to be drained before changing the seal?
No the oil level is lower than the seal.
That seal runs on the balancer not the crank.
You have a lot of patience with the rovers
that was so easy, thanks for the educational.
Thanks very good video. I got a 99 D2
Steve or Anyone: What was that torque setting? I have the GEMS engine in my 98 D1, so same block. Can’t find it on the interweb yet and my seal is on its way.
200 ft-lbs
@@ThisWeekWithCars how did you get it to break free without the engine turning? I'm about to do mine.
Good stuff Steve
Well, that leaking oil looked clean, that's a plus
easier than i thought! thanks
You make it so easy.
Top Show Really Enjoy It
The main seals on an engine should not leak as the oil is held in by vacuum.
If they do leak it is normally a blockage in the breather system. Often it is the restricted part at the
manifold connection.
Thanks, Steve. Despite your vehicle needing the work done, it's generous of you to show how it's done. Odd how there are a couple of dickheads giving the thumbs down sign! 😒
I see that now there is only one dickhead ! 👍
Wow, compared to my tree fiddy rear main last winter, this looks like a breeze!
The seal does not ride on the crankshaft. The seal runs on the pulley. Make sure your pulley has no burrs and it's clean of oil residue
Outstanding...👍
Great job!
should have left the leak as the oil spray would have stopped it rusting away?😂
👍👍👍👍👍
losen the bolt he says... that sucker torqued down and the crank will spin-- no access for air tools.
How did he do it? I’m trying to do the same thing…
@@ctbritva3623 leave the serpentine belt on and stuff a rag between the pulley and the belt. It will act as a wedge to keep the engine from spinning. You could also take the fan out and put the socket and breaker bar on and let it rest against the truck and go bump the Ignition once or twice
@@matth4069 thank you brother - I’ll have to try that method another time. Since I needed to remove the sump anyway, I lodged a 2x4 in between a thick part of the block (at the back of the engine) and a piston counterweight, then cracked the bolt loose with a 4’ breaker bar and a 15/16 socket, which worked well. I’ve also got an impact wrench now that might do the job in the future. I’ve had to leash a lot to make this happen, but I’ve got a bit more experience in all of this now. Thank you again. I’ll have to try tapping the wrench with the starter sometime if I can’t remove the sump and the impact wrench doesn’t do the job.
@@neur0pathy yeah my milwaukee stubby impact made short work of mine but I know not everyone has such luxuries so those are two solid shade tree mechanic tips that require little effort haha. Bumping the starter with a breaker bar on the bolt always works as long as you have it sitting on the correct side so it doesnt become a medieval weapon. Glad you got it figured out brother
👍🏻
Dunno why you wear a watch when trying to work in confined spaces with oil everywhere ...
I wondered the same thing.
Clean off the lumpy old grease off the harmonic bal.
Good video, but you made the fatal mistake of putting back the original, old crankshaft bolt !!! Disco 2 crankshaft bolts are known as 'Stretch Bolts' and MUST be replaced with a brand new bolt when replaced, as once used, they stretch ( Hence their name ! ) and become slightly longer than when new, rendering them not to be useable with 100%
certainty. .
A so call ? 'Land Rover Specialist' garage in Nerja, Spain, did exactly what you did and put the old bolt back in my Disco 2 (2002) and within 100 kilometres, it had vibrated loose and I lost all power steering and air con etc, but worse still, the crankshaft pulley, which is a Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley had 'wobbled' about whilst loosened on the on the crankshaft, despite the Woodruff key, and worn the end of the crankshaft from the original state of machined to be perfectly round to being ever so slightly 'Oval'
End result ?
An engine that vibrates more than before and needs regular oil seal changes to the crankshaft which has leaked ever since.
Estimated cost to replace crankshaft (Which is still perfect today, other than the cowboy garage destroying its integrity ! ) close to 4,000€ 😞
Here's a brithish car in Iowa: th-cam.com/video/ZPhET0_qBA4/w-d-xo.html
sorry but I don't think IOWA knows how to spell Land Rover - better stick with FORD or tractor