Only need "deep pockets" if you rely on a mechanic to work on your cars because you may not be mechanically inclined. This engine ( actually the entire car ) is just a big Lego set, so easy to take apart and put back together, and parts are easily available since it was sold worldwide.
Here in the UK where they're very common still, the vast majority (over 90%) of Discovery 2 models are the 2.5L Td5 diesel, which is an extremely reliable engine and 400,000 miles (650,000 km) is not uncommon. They do suffer from oil getting into the fuel injector harness and travelling back to the ECU, because the injector system is the same type as the VW PD engine. They also suffer head gasket issues, but mainly because the head is at an angle and the block has plastic locating dowels for the head. A new head gasket and the later steel locating dowels and that fixes it. They also suffer from leaking fuel pressure regulators, and on early ones the bolt holding the sprocket to the oil pump can work loose and fall off. Later vehicles have thread lock on the bolt, and all service replacement bolts do also. The factory service schedule actually lists the automatic transmission fluid being changed every 24,000 miles (40,000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes first. Strangely, the filter is only listed as an item at the first 24,000 miles service! There's not a lot that goes wrong with these, either the ZF 4HP22EH for the Td5 and 4.0L V8, or the 4HP24EH for the 4.6L V8, although Td5 models can crack the flex plate. Most here are the 5-speed R380 manual gearbox, which is not as robust. Most issues with those though are to do with the dual mass flywheel fitted to Td5 models. Generally it's considered good advice to change it whenever you change the clutch, although LOF now do a single mass flywheel upgrade kit. What kills them is people running regular gear oil in these rather than the proper Texaco/Caltex/Chevron MTF94 gear oil. The final thing I will add is that if you have the three amigos, check your wheel bearings. Three times we had it when we owned one (we had a 2000 model year Td5 from 2004 to 2017) and each time it was a wheel bearing. When the bearing goes, the air gap becomes too big and the speed sensor no longer registers, saying you've got a faulty wheel speed sensor. It's the first port of call before delving deeper into the ABS system.
I'm from South Africa have the same one in the video but a 2004 td5 and it's the most reliable car I had so far and drive now for 4 years no problems, the main thing is when you buy them from previous owners who did not took care of them, only my experience
@@BubblesTheCat1 I would say yes, funny enough any spare part is easy available, there is a lot of information around keeping them driving and any repair can be done cheaply. So, no maybe it is not the best car, but it is a car that can be fixed even on a driveway with a small set of spanners and access to companies like Britparts and the other OEM suppliers.
HG gasket failure: do the inline thermostat mod (less than $100). The factory cooling design does cause overheating. Valve cover leak: Do the PCV mod ($6 for the valve). A clogged oil separator (plastic piece) can cause too high crankcase pressure which can lead to leaks. A PCV valve is much easier to clean. Mods can be done in less than an hour. Google the forums for details.
I’ve been driving my Discovery 2 for three years now. I’ve met a number of Land Rover owners along the way and I have yet to meet one who doesn’t love their Rover. That being said, I do all my own work and maintenance. I even did the head gaskets and studded the heads for additional strength. Working on the engine was reminiscent of working on the Ford 331 in my muscle car. The wheel sensor issue will trigger the three amigos. I replaced the bearings and sensors and this corrected the amigos. I find the biggest critics of Land Rovers have never owned one, and are usually people who don’t properly maintain their vehicles.
The ABS module in these things is shared with the Hummer H1. The "Three Amigos" Is the "Dos Amigos" on the Hummer. To fix it on the disco is super easy since the ABS modulator is really easy to get to. It's caused by a bad solder in the modulator shuttle valve. All you need to do is take the bottom of the modulator off and solder in bypass wires that connect to the engine harness and the factory ground. Once those external bypass wires are installed, the amigos go away for good. There are a couple of YT videos on how to do it. On the Hummer its a PITA because you have to take the modulator out to do it.
@@jimmuehlberg2153 The sensors have a tendency to get schmutz on them along with the tone ring. Give them a good cleaning and check the sensor gap while you're there.
Owning a disco is fun! You feel like you are going on an adventure every time you drive it . Yes they can be fussy but you learn to love the quarks, parts are honestly so easy to get online. If you have mechanical abilities they aren’t to difficult to work on. Take the chance on one!!!
@@Tahvyy No, but it would be a good idea to retorque the head bolts. I bought a 1995 Rover v8 from a wrecking yard. It had a head gasket blown out between #1 and #3 cylinders. When I pulled the heads I notices that the head bolts on that side had low torque compared to the upper row of head bolts. I think retorquing could have saved the engine which was otherwise in good condition considering the 143k miles on it.
Just got a disco 2, very happy with it other than having to fix sunroof leaks and bedline the headliner, and a transfer case bearing I might do tonight. 232k miles still kicking
Just bought a 1 owner 99 with 8plug 4.0 v8. Full time 4wd, center differential lock, absolutely no rust on body or underneath. Has brand new tires, like new wheels, 165,000 miles if I’m not mistaken. I’m really really happy with my purchase. Sounds very snook and quiet. Shifts perfectly. If I start having problems I will be back to comment about my change of heart but I have a feeling as long as I treat it right I assume it will me as well
Sounds like you got a D1. If well maintained they're great SUV's. The D2 is what gave them such a bad reputation. Buy an Ultragauge to monitor your engine temps, do the proper maintenance, and you'll be very happy with it for years to come.
I had a 2001 and the gas mileage was killing me, so I had to get rid of it. One of the best "feeling" cars to drive. The seating position really gives a commanding feel. Loved it.
The 1st generation discoveries are some of the best SUVs on this planet. Not because they are very reliable, (well mine has been really reliable but apparently it's the exception that makes the rule), but because how easily they are repairable by even the owner. Their engines, drivetrains and suspension are very simple and they do not require many if any special tools.
@@enjoyingend1939 where i live, i can get almost 3 mint discovery 1s for the price of a second gen 4runner that looks heavily neglected and its barely running. heck I could get a disco, an xj and a 5.9 zj, plus repair costs, for less than the price of a 4 runner or a prado 90 in great shape. 80 series cost about as much as 6 discos for a decent example, and one in mint condition like a disco, twice that much... toyotas are good, but not 12x as good.
Literally one of the least reliable vehicles made during its years of production. Very capable when running and quite comfortable, but hope you like wrenching (or have a fat wallet). If spending weeks trying to identify phantom electrical problems is your idea of a good time, then you're going to LOVE these. Oh yes, and if its not leaking, it's empty... oil, transfer case, you name it. You used to be able to buy these used for nothing at all. I wouldn't take one for free.
@@HereComeMrCee-Jay my mates ran for 300k hard miles before he sold it and he used to abuse the crap out of it. Easiest cars to fix ever and actually last if you look after them. Show me a modern car that will take any similar abuse and I'll just laugh 😅
I love my 2000 land rover discovery 2 v8, yes it did blow a head gasket and its still on my front lawn waiting to be repaired (for the past 9 months) but i still love it. I grew up in one of these, my dad had one and would always take us out camping and from a young kid i fell in love with these discos. I know they have alot of gremlins but i will most likely always fork out the money to repair it.
20+ years and still love my D1 Another tip, you're looking at one with a bad head gasket check the compression, if it leaks down in a middle cylinder it could be a dropped liner, if it's an end cylinder it's prob an easy fix. More of a D2/Bosch issue but can show up on the D1.
@@Klpinfl interesting, I'd always heard it the other way but then again my D1 did drop a liner and bust a piston skirt at 172k, original head gaskets looked great when I opened it up.
@@lawy3077 I barely made it to 80k on my D1 before the head gaskets went. Also the ticking lifter noise that is common on those engines is actually the bonded metal inside the rocker arm that makes contact with the pushrod, and not the lifter itself. Another common failure is the clockspring. Regardless, I loved that vehicle.
Reading these comments makes me feel better about the 96 D1 I bought tonight with 217k on it. I've been looking at all kinds of parts and can't believe how easy it is to find affordable components. I was always led to believe that these were more trouble than they're worth but I'm really starting to rethink that after just driving this one for a short time this evening. I can confidently wrench and I love the DIY nature of these things.
I really like these especially the boxy styling - I hate the current Discovery and all the new LR products. They’re also hideously unreliable and cheaply built. Old school is definately the best and I wouldn’t think twice about investing money in one of these over anything new. Great video Wizard
these discos are actually fun , not only to drive, but also to work on... that's if you have the time and more importantly, the space. the disco community is also so helpful... i used to work on fords and hondas, the LR discos are kind of emo with it's issues and the community is very good at diagnosing and reminding not to shoot the "parts cannon." the undercarriage of this disco was identical to the very first disco i owned... it was a great day when there were no leak spots on the floor!
In the UK you used to be able to pick up a running D2 for under £1000. These days "average" ones are £4000, good ones are £6000 or more and people are selling mint ones for £15000. I think people have realised that, after the Defender, a D1/D2 is "the" Land Rover to own.
Never messed with Disco 2's, but I've got a few imported Defender 110 diesels. When people ask me how it is to drive them, the best answer I've come up with is that it's a gentleman's tractor. Love them. Strange to see you go through this one and find how many parts are familiar. I constantly check my local wrecking yards for Disco 1's to get parts for my Defenders. -- tons of parts are pretty much identical or can be easily modified to fit.
Thanks for sharing. Actually diagnosed a burnt wire to the fuel pump on my dad's disco tonight. Cool how that happened the same time you posted this video. Its been sitting in the shop for years and yes it has a bad head gasket. He has mud tires, lights, heavy bumper and a winch. I think it's a super cool truck for offroad.
It looks great, love the styling. The twin globe headlights really help it to still look modern. These have aged well. If this D2 had a full detail & some cosmetic items fixed, it would look fantastic..
My wife wanted one so against my better judgment I bought her one. Worst decision EVER! I think the longest it ever ran between trips to first the dealership and after the warranty ran out an independent shop was three weeks. Was happy when it was rear-ended and totaled. Bought her a Lexus after that and thankfully she just replaces it with another Lexus when it's time to change vehicles.
Hopefully your wife learned she should leave vehicle choices to you. Can’t tell you how many guys I know whose wives insisted on an Audi only to have it start to break them the second the warranty ran out and before, under warranty, hundreds of hours back and forth to the dealer.
Here in Spain all these Land Rovers from the 90´s and 00´s disappeared from roads with time. Nobody would want an old crappy Land Rover when you could purchase a Japanese suv from the era (Land Cruisers, Monteros, Patrols...) instead. Even the 1st gen Koreans (Ssangyong Rexton, Hyundai Terracan or Kia Sorento) were much better and cheaper to mantain than this
@Ozark Living A job change and the resulting long commute made leasing a vehicle not financially viable. Buying them has proven the better choice because over the five years, we keep the vehicle they usually accumulate 200k miles. Even with high mileage, but well-maintained, Lexus vehicles have some value.
Still got my 1998 3.9 Efi 350,000 km still going strong, pulls like a train when its needed. Went through a major rebuild of all the axles & transfer box, cylinder heads & cam shaft, sorted all the issues out. Didn’t give it a lift or a snorkel, no checker plate either. Still gets me where I need to go. No auto headlights, abs, traction control, hill descent, auto wipers, lane departure assist, just a key to start it!
Head gaskets Oil pan gasket Timing cover gasket Radiator Interior seat switches Flex disks Rear air suspension Brake calipers, (on disco 1) Horn buttons Electrical system Spark plug wires
My TD5 Commercial is heading on to 300k miles. I am at my third transfer box and I have the air suspension on the back one time fully restored. I had the chainwheel disaster happen to my engine ones, but that is almost 150k miles ago. Last my key receiver box in the sealing went belly up and is replaced. The strut towers and the rear chassis has been welded but I love here to bits. She is not my daily and next to my Unimog S404 she is not the best 4x4 I have, but she still competes in trails and is a happy bunny.
The Oldsmobile version of the 215 had an extra row of head bolts since Olds was turbocharging some F85s and Cutlasses. The Olds 215 then had fewer head gasket issues than the Buicks did. British Leyland acquired molds and other tooling for both versions, and then went cheap.
The triple row is largely regarded as failing more often than the twin row, as tightening the extra row is thought to lessen clamping pressures on the second row and causing the gasket to leak.
Ah yes... The one I forever regret letting get away. I swapped an Olds 215V8 into my 73 Vega GT, in 1975. It weighed just 20 pounds more than the awful original 4 cylinder nightmare. It got better gas mileage too! The best engine swap I ever did.
@@tcm81 FORD would be... F(_)!n Old Rebuilt Dodge! Or, Found On Roadside Daily! Or, Found On Road Dead! Or, Fixed Or Repaired Daily! As you can clearly see, I could go on for days! 🤣🤣
Hahah. Ive had my hands in these machines since they were mechanically sound and lucas electronic deficient. Always a Achilles heel... W expensive junk.
Mr Wizard! Thank you for the great review on the Discos🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 You just said it btw. Get to know them before buying them 👍🏼 as long things get situated with gaskets and amigos etc. You’re all good to go. It’s unfortunate people who bought these failed to perform the proper maintenance on them, and didn’t read the manual. The highest mileage I’ve seen on a D2 was near 260k and still pushing…
Had one of those...main problem is chassis rust, but the inner wheel arches can also rust. Water ingress is also a problem, but mostly easy to fix....'a' pillar and sunroof. I did like it a lot...mine was a TD5 diesel of course in the UK...but sold it due to the rust. I would definitely buy another one without the rust. 3 amigos is usually a sticking valve in the ABS pump...easy fix.
I have one and very reliable, the guys that is complaining is the ones that don't look after them and buy the 2004 td5 you can thank me later, have a good one
The problem is unfortunately wen you buy it of an owner who did not took care of it, yes had that 3 amigos 2 times couse it tells you there is something worth checking, found out it was time for new batty
Hey Wizard, You’ve gotta talk about the 2013-19 Ford Escape, I work at a Ford store and these cars come in on flatbeds every single day with major failures. I’ve heard mainly transmissions and head gaskets from the owners that have them trailered or towed in. The salesmen flock over these people like flies and try and get them to trade them in.
rear output shaft gear to mutch slack. grears have to mutch play. mine broke around 188000 km multiple times. cluch broke 3 times until upgraded to defender versoin. blown engine due to jumped timing, Greabox went out same time. Drove great. Engine tilt to front so air stays in the head. Or vacuum fill or drill a plug at highest spot so you can bleed easy.
Great intro vidjo on the Disco, Car Wizard! I have a 98 Disco 1 that I rescued a couple of years ago and love it. It had been sitting in a barn for 8 years after it failed inspection due to a very rusty frame, floor and firewall. I spend half my summer underneath it fixing all that, along with some pretty dodgy previous electrical "repairs". It's now a very solid truck that I mostly use to tow stuff in the summer, and as my main winter ride. These are very quiet and comfortable, even somewhat luxurious, and they are unstoppable in snow! That's a very good thing, cuz I live in Canada. Cheers!
Those Land Rover Discovery 1's were a very popular vehicle to scrap during the Cash-for-Clunkers program. I saw dozens of them at the local Pick-and-Pull scrapyards during those years.
Got one just like it. Refurbing the XYZ switch solves the 3 amigos problem. The central locking system is hard chipped into the underhood fuse box, window motors and regulators fail regularly.... and as you mention, the head gaskets.. stretch bolts are a trip to "torque".
@@2nickles647 The XYZ switch is under the car, attached to the transmission. It is a series of copper contacts that provide feedback to the car on what gear the automatic transmission selector is placed. The switch gets corroded and if the ecm can't tell the position of the gear selector... it puts the Disco in a limp mode... permanent 3rd gear... won't down shift, or OD, plus you get the 3 Amigos. The switch is permanently sealed, but you can drill out the rivets, spit the switch case, use a mild abrasive to clean the contacts, reseal the case and pop rivet back together. A new switch is about $500 if you can find one.
Budget $5k to fix the problems it will have when you buy it, and then another $2k per year for ongoing maintenance and repair. Plus, as others have said, you will worry each time you drive it that you’ll “discover” some new issue. I’ve had my 2000 since new, and I love the way it looks and drives, and I cherish the memories, but by now I’ve replaced most of the original parts, including the engine. Thank goodness for extended warranties!
After the ABS on my 97 Disco kicked in and caused me to go thru a red light while towing a trailer, I disabled the ABS and never looked back. As a bonus, my front brake pads and rotors lasted 3X longer without the ABS. Oh, and it still stops just fine without the ABS. One thing you didn't point out Wizard was that unusual parking brake... On the rear drive shaft. If you drive the car with it engaged, it will deatroy the transmission, which is very expensive to replace. I "collected" my 97 in 99 and have driven it ever since. There have been some issues here and there, but it has actually been pretty reliable. The OEM springs and shocks on Disco 1 are crap. I replaced with OME springs, Bilstien shocks within a year or two. Vig improvwment and they last! And, yes, they are pretty easy to work on. A lot of stuff is designed to be repaired with very basic tools or no tools at all. The Disco 1 headlights are glass and don't fog up or yellow like the plastic ones. The Disco 1 also has black paint where the plastic trim was broken or missing from that Disco 2. The Disco 1 has metal bumpers with easily replaced plastic end caps, too. If I recall correctly, that 2004 Disco 2 was the last year they used the body on frame design (very heavy duty, 1 ton rated) AND the last year with the Buick-derived all aluminum V8. After all, at Ford bought the brand on 2000 and probably didn't fully appreciate the GM engine. The brand was again sold, this time to Tata of India (Mahindra tractors).
The first car the Buick V8 was used on in the UK was the P5B Saloon/Coupe. The queens private car. I have owned 2 Saloons, Wish I still owned them now.
V8's (You lucky people) best keep the cooling system in top order. Steering boxes, don't turn the steering wheel until the road wheels are rolling. Three Amigos, usually a wheel sensor, a common fault. However, I have never had that issue because I don't dunk my car in cold muddy water. 110 miles - nicely run in. 180 thou in my TD5. High mileages are common. Wow, that is so clean underneath! Rear output gearbox seals can go as well as the transfer box and are unobtainable, but a recon box can be purchased from Ashcroft Transmissions. You are a Top Man Car Wizard!
I fell in love with Land rovers when I was a kid watching Daktari . Having friends that have owned them I will pass . I would consider restoring one from the 50's or 60's .
95 percent of all land rovers in Ireland and indeed Europe are diesels,,it's very rare to see a petrol one,,the diesels can go 300k miles plus if looked after...
Before even watching it - external head gasket coolant leaks, slipped cylinder liners that make it sound like a steam engine, external oil leaks, thermostat failures, rusting at the front drive shaft double-cardan joint from the HVAC drain, secondary air system and transfer case leaks. Did I list everything? Nope I forgot about the ABS module failures as well. Ok now let’s watch it.
I remember the ads for the air bag suspension, they said in off road the inflated rear bags would add ground clearance. My grandma had one! She loved it.
I would suggest to the customer that they consider reconditioning the headlights if not right now then perhaps at some point in the future. So long as they're not cracked. I certainly understand that they don't want to restore the whole thing, but the hazy headlights is more of a safety concern at least for me it would be.
I am a 96 D1 owner and you have to be diligent with maintenance - LR's are not Toyota Honda Subaru for sure. Now a days customers will not stand for a vehicle that has a lot of problems at 100K miles - I also have an 01 Toyo LC and the build quality between the LC and Disco are night and day of course I think I paid less than $30 for my SD Disco and $55-60k for the LC but my LC has about 200K and the Disco 100K and the LC still seems like a new car compared to the D1.
If you live in the rust area, check the rear frame, its very common that they rot there and also check if the 4x4 lever still works and not disconnected as its controlled with wire and not electronic
I bought an 04 in need of a head gasket. Turns out the first owner (I'm 3rd) really loved this car and had the engine top hat sleeved. I thought I struck gold... Until I've had 7 of the threads strip out of the engine block. It's been a nightmare and so far I've done the passenger head 4x just to do 1 HG job. The drivers side coming up to the same number at this point. I'm a Mechanic by trade and have experience on older Rovers, but what I thought would be a fun project has been a lesson in pain.
Given the choice between a 90's Discovery 1 or a 90's FJ80. I will take the Toyota every time. Similar problems, mileage, and cost between the two I just prefer the inline dohc more then the 60's pushrod tech.
Keep up the disco content! I’m a fellow Kansan that has a few daily drivers. I have a ‘98 D1 and an ‘04 camp rig. My fiancé has an ‘02 daily mocked up as a G4 challenge rig.
I got lucky and found a running 01 D2se7 with very minor issues, only paid 2K for it With a set of 5 off-road rims and tires already on it and the original 5 rims.. The body looks great, with no dents or rust. The front and rear bumper didn't look that great, though, and I would have replaced them anyway. 160k miles. the headliner had already been rhino lined. Lots of the little upgrades that people do where already done to this one.
03-04 were 4HP24’s since being 4.6L. Transfer cases are 3 o rings the rest is sealant. Land Rover has pretty much discontinued everything now on a D2 unfortunately.
I had the TD5 auto, 2000 plate. The sun roof’s leaked when I got it. Took them out and fixed them took the cloth roof off and painted the roof lining. New water pump. Then had it for 5 years and sold it for what I had paid. Great car but the engine had been modified and it only did 17 miles per gallon on a good day
The DiscoDivas 1 and 2 are my great loves. Looks and all. My father sold his D2 and argued that it wasn't a car for me . Ha! If there is one car I would hug goodnight, it is a Disco! Hard to keep tho as I don't have a driver's licence.... 😢 15 K SEK is just the start fir the darn expensive lil card.
Later larger engines can suffer from cracks behind the cylinder liner and become quite nasty. ARP fasteners rather than the factory bolts, just don't over tighten the outer ones to factory torque as it pulls the head over. If overheated they can suffer from a loose liner which will confuse many a mechanic with a tick a idle. Being flat tappet, those issues are fun at rebuild, roller available but($). Only referencing the older ones, buy the 3.5 or 3.9. If you can't do your own stuff, being older vehicles you best go and buy something else and pay the man and do some OT. At least over here can be bought pretty cheap, maintained at a reasonable cost by DIY and once sorted, at least the earlier ones will give you good service. Get alot of comments from people 'who have heard'. Keeps the price down.
0:21 the headlights would not make it through the biannual inspection and cleaning would not really work until you use polishing paste which is forbidden here due to changing the way the light would take and replacements are so terrible expensive that you would not buy that car until you get a huge discount that will pay for the replacements.
The transfer case also leaks out of the intremediate shaft at the front of housing ! Uni joints can fail on the carden joint due to no grease nipples and moisture from the A.C. drain !
Have a '97 that got to 350k-ish miles. Was run off the road and jumped 2.5 concrete culverts. No injuries on my part but the Rover is in traction at the moment. Think I'll buy a couple more and I'll have enough parts to keep one going for several years. 🙂
I've owned two of these, one from new; they ride great, handle fabulously for a SUV, do offroad in comfort and with ease. The V8 engine has its issues, lots of them. As for the tranny, the ZF is okay if it's serviced. Good video Wizard. Gooday from Australia.
I had 2002 Land Rover Discovery II SE model. I bought three years with low miles certified preowned. I couldn’t wait to sell the car once I got it paid off.
Hey. It is not about if they are colectible, it's all about they are tough vehicle. Brand new 4x4 are so expensive and people want to make some overlannding, that's why their prices going up. Regards from Poland 🇵🇱
Disco Mk1 prices going up here in the UK, especially very clean ones. I hope they do anyway because I am so deep into welding up a 3.9 ES I paid £375 GBP for it would be nice if it was worth something at the end!
The engine created by Buick ended up as the 3800 V6 in the end. My 94 4.2 Rover V8 had the top hat liners installed with ARP studs. Never had another issue.
Great video, I owned my for about three years. Got cheap had a radiator issue fix. So a few days ago, I got home at night parked it, next morning the brakes were gone. The pedal to the floor, no visible fluid anywhere. When I depressed the pedal, I hear a click coming from the gear handle area. Anyway I have to figure that out.
Funny thing about the GM 215 (That's read Buick & Olds 215) --- People will see 215 Pontiac listed somewhere, and think it's the V-8 (the common BOP mindset). It's not. The Pontiac 215 is a cast iron, inline six, built only in 1964 & 1965 for the Tempest and Lemans models.
Great video as always Wizard. I’ve had 4 disco’s (two on the drive now). Just pulled the latest one out of a field for less then the price of a repaint and heads. These are great cars and I echo that they certainly are becoming classics. Cheers.
9:02 ... double Cardano joint...after the Italian mathematician Gerolamo Cardano, who was an early writer on gimbals, although his writings mentioned only gimbal mountings, not universal joints.
Just bought a 2000 discovery with 120k miles and man I can tell you it’s definitely a project car 100%. I could only find 2 mechanics out of like 30 in the city that would touch it. I hate it and I love it but she needs a lot of work to look solid.
I enjoy my 03 4.6L V8 with 156k , I work on it myself.. has small lift and a daily driver.. just about to replace front wheel bearings this next weekend
ha! spoke too soon.. my power steering pump just went south and emptied the contents of my fluid on my drive! nice! time to break out the wrenches again lol
97 D1 with 206k miles. Did the heads once years ago and it just keeps going. Monitor your fluids and keep it clean. It'll last a lifetime. Can't say the same about the D2s. Those block castings are not great.
I miss my 1998 Disco I. I had way over 100K, and it ran like a champ! Also installed a 2 inch lift kit on it. Rock solid truck, and the only reason i got rid of it, is because the damn sunroofs leaked, and when it was time to change my fuel pump, which is one of the easiest ever to do on these vehicles, i noticed that my whole floor under the carpet was pure rust. just broke my heart.
I think you're referring to the fact that some can slip a liner in the cylinder, however this usually happened early in the life of any motor it'll happen to OR it'd have to have been severely overheated to deform the block/heads and let the cylinder slip.
Great video Car Wizard! I've always been interested in owning a Discovery 2/3. I was hoping you would have mentioned the ballpark cost and difficulty level associated with the common fail points and whether a shade-tree mechanic should tackle them. Keep you excellent videos flowing. I'm a big fan!
I'd reason that no shade tree mechanic should be allowed near any import. Even most legit, small scale neighborhood shops are gonna have a hard time with most modern euro-imports. If you invest in one, you're gonna need to bank on either taking it to the dealership for maintenance and repairs, or finding someone like the guy in this video (which will likely mean shipping your vehicle several hundred miles away). It's a matter of proprietary parts, even proprietary tools in many cases, as well having the requisite knowledge of all the ways these cars differ in design from what's common in domestic cars. I've seen a few people buy expensive garage ornaments because a critical problem arose and they simply cannot find (or often afford) the right kind of shop to address it. So it just sits, mocking their purchase.
If you can wrench it doesn't get much easier than a Disco, and the factory manual is free. Parts aren't bad when you find a good vendor. There's a really good used parts guy in the LR World if you're in the USA. Lots of vendors use Rovah in their names to avoid being sued.
Disco 3 or LR3 in NA is the one to get with the 4.4 petrol, I've had a disco 1 before and a disco 2, the 1 is better than the 2, the 2's had more issues neither has enough horsepower the 4.4 Jag V8 fixes that. I've kept mine going and haven't spent much, you can definitely fix them yourself if you know cars they aren't that hard to work on and don't require too many specialized tools, Land Rover owners have great communities online so it is very easy to get information about common issues. The suspension bits are a wear item as are brakes and tires, but the engines don't need much, the ZF trans is good as long as you service it, the air suspension is surprisingly reliable. It's a Land Rover so either you need a "rover mechanic" or you need to become one yourself, they are not "straight forward" cars, for example you may find your LR3 isn't shifting gears, you may think the transmission is bad, no it is most likely a burned out brake light or the break peddle switch has gone bad, a regular mechanic gets this wrong 9 times out of 10. I do most of my own work but also have a very knowledgeable rover mechanic(most expensive), a euro mechanic who owns and extensively off-roads a Land Rover(less expensive but still expensive), a general mechanic is is very competent and works cheaper but doesn't know land rover oddities(cheap). Skip the dealers all together, if I did everything I've done the last 5 years at the dealer it would have been 15k vs. the 3k I've spent doing it myself, they charge like 2k for a brake pad and rotor job over $500 per axle for parts($178 per rotor, $180 for pads, the hardware is extra, $40 for a sensor, brake fluid) plus 3 hours labor at like $200 per hour literally most dealers are $1800 plus tax. I did it myself parts are like $350, I used to get parts cheaper it was like $250 and honestly quality after market is actually better than the factory brakes which are just OK. I had to do calipers, they are $450 each at the dealer or like $100 warrantied for life on fcpeuro, hoses were like $10 on rockauto. So for around $550 in parts I did what the dealer wanted $3400 for, it took me like 3 hours to do. They wanted 3k to do a transmission service, I bought the metal pan kit at Atlantic British for like $300 and paid the euro mechanic $400 to do the job. They wanted $1500 to fix the traction control errors claiming I need a new control module and a new selector switch, I cleaned the contacts on the modules, cleaned the grounds, reprogrammed the module with ids and it works without any codes or errors. I did lower and upper control arms, sway bar links, and tie rods, parts were $600, the dealer wanted $3600 to do the same job. They charge like $1200 for the 100k mile tune up and I did it and the parts were like $250. A coolant flush and new reservoir, well the dealer charges like $50 a gallon for dexcool, prestone from Walmart is $12 a gallon and a $35 tank from fcp did the job for like $100. Generally dealer repairs cost 5-6 times the parts cost and around 2x-3x the cost of the repair at an independent mechanic. Occasionally I take it to the dealer for basic service as they do an inspection and clean the car really well and with the occasional coupon they send it isn't terribly expensive, but for repairs, brakes, tires heck no. It's not a Toyota but you can keep it in good running conditions for not much if you do your own work and find a reasonable mechanic to do what you cannot handle or do in your driveway.
@@herecomesaregular8418 Wow, so much wrong in one post. The Disco 1 and 2 (the OP mentioned the 3 which is an entirely different vehicle) are simple and easy to maintain for an owner with basic skills and tools. You don't need anything specialized and there is a huge international support structure of enthusiast owners out there willing to help you with what you don't know. If you're taking it to the dealer for every little thing then yeah, it's going to be brutally expensive and you'll be 'that guy' who cries about 'it's a money pit' and how terrible it is. If you have half an ounce of mechanical skill and don't just drive until something fails catastrophically then send it to the $250/hr dealer it's affordable and a great vehicle. Shop? Why would you need to send it to a shop? As the video pointed out, it's an old-school V8 (or diesel in ROW) with fairly basic tech.
@@philtowle4683 mines a 2004 with only 65000 miles. I’ve owned it since new and I’ve never missed a service. It’s just a bad year for them. It’s leaking from the timing cover and the rear main. I usually add a half a quart every 1000 miles.
I worked with every oddball dumpster fire in the auto industry:: AMC, Jeep( when owned by AMC ), Renault, Peugeot, Alfa, the infamous Made in USA VWs, ... You name it, I probably worked with them. I thought I had seen it all...and then came Land Rover. We were busily switching old Counties over to metal springs from their comically engineered air suspension. A customer picked up her 2nd Disco about a month before( first one bought back under lemon law ). It was in for a lengthy stay at the dealership to diagnose various intermittent electronic gremlins. We took turns roadtesting the car armed with a volt/ohm meter and a service manual. So, I''m out driving around. Odometer @ 2300 miles. 55 mph on the interstate... Suddenly, an amazing sound under the hood, engine stops turning. Into neutral, onto the median, open hood. Diagnosis: pretty simple: Piston and con rod on number 5 cylinder has exited the engine by blowing a hole in the block about the size of a soccer ball. Post mortem: bolts on all con rod big ends finger tight....
I have a friend who had a D1 for a very long time. He told me that he never had any issues with it. He totaled it in a roll-over. God allowed him to walk away even though he was 6'5". He bought a D2.
Nice video WIZARD. coil packs, rear main seal, and T-stat are other common issues. I have a 2004 with 223,000 miles. 2 head gaskets later. Still love it but always fixing something.
Lots of hate for the disco here. The truth is, they are very simple vehicles and dare I say reliable. You wont see many with low miles - this proves they are reliable. The ones with bad blocks have been disposed of or fixed. They provide a unique driving experience - a proper off road rig that can take your family and gear.
Oh god no! I hate those with a passion.. my teacher changed from Peugeot 406 wagon into disco 2.. never ending problems, his citroen Ds was alot more fun.
Only need "deep pockets" if you rely on a mechanic to work on your cars because you may not be mechanically inclined. This engine ( actually the entire car ) is just a big Lego set, so easy to take apart and put back together, and parts are easily available since it was sold worldwide.
Here in the UK where they're very common still, the vast majority (over 90%) of Discovery 2 models are the 2.5L Td5 diesel, which is an extremely reliable engine and 400,000 miles (650,000 km) is not uncommon. They do suffer from oil getting into the fuel injector harness and travelling back to the ECU, because the injector system is the same type as the VW PD engine. They also suffer head gasket issues, but mainly because the head is at an angle and the block has plastic locating dowels for the head. A new head gasket and the later steel locating dowels and that fixes it. They also suffer from leaking fuel pressure regulators, and on early ones the bolt holding the sprocket to the oil pump can work loose and fall off. Later vehicles have thread lock on the bolt, and all service replacement bolts do also.
The factory service schedule actually lists the automatic transmission fluid being changed every 24,000 miles (40,000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes first. Strangely, the filter is only listed as an item at the first 24,000 miles service! There's not a lot that goes wrong with these, either the ZF 4HP22EH for the Td5 and 4.0L V8, or the 4HP24EH for the 4.6L V8, although Td5 models can crack the flex plate. Most here are the 5-speed R380 manual gearbox, which is not as robust. Most issues with those though are to do with the dual mass flywheel fitted to Td5 models. Generally it's considered good advice to change it whenever you change the clutch, although LOF now do a single mass flywheel upgrade kit. What kills them is people running regular gear oil in these rather than the proper Texaco/Caltex/Chevron MTF94 gear oil.
The final thing I will add is that if you have the three amigos, check your wheel bearings. Three times we had it when we owned one (we had a 2000 model year Td5 from 2004 to 2017) and each time it was a wheel bearing. When the bearing goes, the air gap becomes too big and the speed sensor no longer registers, saying you've got a faulty wheel speed sensor. It's the first port of call before delving deeper into the ABS system.
How can you still call them good after your LOOONG list of common problems?
I'm from South Africa have the same one in the video but a 2004 td5 and it's the most reliable car I had so far and drive now for 4 years no problems, the main thing is when you buy them from previous owners who did not took care of them, only my experience
@@BubblesTheCat1 I would say yes, funny enough any spare part is easy available, there is a lot of information around keeping them driving and any repair can be done cheaply. So, no maybe it is not the best car, but it is a car that can be fixed even on a driveway with a small set of spanners and access to companies like Britparts and the other OEM suppliers.
Nothing more council estate than an over moded old disco
@@dudbolt9707 What does council estate mean?
HG gasket failure: do the inline thermostat mod (less than $100). The factory cooling design does cause overheating.
Valve cover leak: Do the PCV mod ($6 for the valve). A clogged oil separator (plastic piece) can cause too high crankcase pressure which can lead to leaks. A PCV valve is much easier to clean.
Mods can be done in less than an hour. Google the forums for details.
100% plus a couple of bottles of water wetter to remove any air pockets.
What’s the PCV mod? Is this required for the 4.0 disco 1?
I’ve been driving my Discovery 2 for three years now. I’ve met a number of Land Rover owners along the way and I have yet to meet one who doesn’t love their Rover.
That being said, I do all my own work and maintenance. I even did the head gaskets and studded the heads for additional strength. Working on the engine was reminiscent of working on the Ford 331 in my muscle car.
The wheel sensor issue will trigger the three amigos. I replaced the bearings and sensors and this corrected the amigos.
I find the biggest critics of Land Rovers have never owned one, and are usually people who don’t properly maintain their vehicles.
The ABS module in these things is shared with the Hummer H1. The "Three Amigos" Is the "Dos Amigos" on the Hummer. To fix it on the disco is super easy since the ABS modulator is really easy to get to. It's caused by a bad solder in the modulator shuttle valve. All you need to do is take the bottom of the modulator off and solder in bypass wires that connect to the engine harness and the factory ground. Once those external bypass wires are installed, the amigos go away for good. There are a couple of YT videos on how to do it. On the Hummer its a PITA because you have to take the modulator out to do it.
Everything on the H1 is a pain,lol
I can vouch for this DIY fix - it works and without losing the features, etc.
Just did that fix. Worked for 2 days, then back! Ugh! Going after wheel sensors now....
@@jimmuehlberg2153 The sensors have a tendency to get schmutz on them along with the tone ring. Give them a good cleaning and check the sensor gap while you're there.
Not to mention the disco 1 doesn’t have any issues with the 3 amigos because it has no traction control or hill decent control
Owning a disco is fun! You feel like you are going on an adventure every time you drive it .
Yes they can be fussy but you learn to love the quarks, parts are honestly so easy to get online. If you have mechanical abilities they aren’t to difficult to work on.
Take the chance on one!!!
Changing Rover V8 head gaskets is a pretty easy job for the home mechanic, it's a lovely simple engine to work on
It was originally a Buick engine !
@@frasermitchell9183 yes, I know
Is it just better to change the head gaskets even if there’s no current problem with them???🤔
@@Tahvyy No, but it would be a good idea to retorque the head bolts. I bought a 1995 Rover v8 from a wrecking yard. It had a head gasket blown out between #1 and #3 cylinders. When I pulled the heads I notices that the head bolts on that side had low torque compared to the upper row of head bolts. I think retorquing could have saved the engine which was otherwise in good condition considering the 143k miles on it.
Do you need special tools for it?
Just got a disco 2, very happy with it other than having to fix sunroof leaks and bedline the headliner, and a transfer case bearing I might do tonight. 232k miles still kicking
Just bought a 1 owner 99 with 8plug 4.0 v8. Full time 4wd, center differential lock, absolutely no rust on body or underneath. Has brand new tires, like new wheels, 165,000 miles if I’m not mistaken. I’m really really happy with my purchase. Sounds very snook and quiet. Shifts perfectly. If I start having problems I will be back to comment about my change of heart but I have a feeling as long as I treat it right I assume it will me as well
Sounds like you got a D1. If well maintained they're great SUV's. The D2 is what gave them such a bad reputation. Buy an Ultragauge to monitor your engine temps, do the proper maintenance, and you'll be very happy with it for years to come.
I had a 2001 and the gas mileage was killing me, so I had to get rid of it. One of the best "feeling" cars to drive. The seating position really gives a commanding feel. Loved it.
This is where the td5 engine absolutely dominates the huge petrol equivalent
The 1st generation discoveries are some of the best SUVs on this planet. Not because they are very reliable, (well mine has been really reliable but apparently it's the exception that makes the rule), but because how easily they are repairable by even the owner. Their engines, drivetrains and suspension are very simple and they do not require many if any special tools.
Or you could get a Toyota.
@@jetnavigator where's the fun in that?
@@enjoyingend1939 where i live, i can get almost 3 mint discovery 1s for the price of a second gen 4runner that looks heavily neglected and its barely running. heck I could get a disco, an xj and a 5.9 zj, plus repair costs, for less than the price of a 4 runner or a prado 90 in great shape. 80 series cost about as much as 6 discos for a decent example, and one in mint condition like a disco, twice that much... toyotas are good, but not 12x as good.
@@jetnavigator the equivalent toyota will be like 8x the price....
@@jetnavigator Getting a 90s land cruiser would easily be 3 to 4 times the price of a Disco...
The big thing to look out for on these is the Land Rover badge on the front.
Literally one of the least reliable vehicles made during its years of production. Very capable when running and quite comfortable, but hope you like wrenching (or have a fat wallet). If spending weeks trying to identify phantom electrical problems is your idea of a good time, then you're going to LOVE these. Oh yes, and if its not leaking, it's empty... oil, transfer case, you name it.
You used to be able to buy these used for nothing at all. I wouldn't take one for free.
I think my 2000 excursion can crush that land rover no problem
If you remove the badge and replace it with a Toyota badge you’ll be set
@@HereComeMrCee-Jay my mates ran for 300k hard miles before he sold it and he used to abuse the crap out of it. Easiest cars to fix ever and actually last if you look after them. Show me a modern car that will take any similar abuse and I'll just laugh 😅
😅
I love my 2000 land rover discovery 2 v8, yes it did blow a head gasket and its still on my front lawn waiting to be repaired (for the past 9 months) but i still love it. I grew up in one of these, my dad had one and would always take us out camping and from a young kid i fell in love with these discos. I know they have alot of gremlins but i will most likely always fork out the money to repair it.
20+ years and still love my D1
Another tip, you're looking at one with a bad head gasket check the compression, if it leaks down in a middle cylinder it could be a dropped liner, if it's an end cylinder it's prob an easy fix. More of a D2/Bosch issue but can show up on the D1.
I found this to be more common on the GEMS motor. I always considered the D2 to be "more" reliable
@@Klpinfl interesting, I'd always heard it the other way but then again my D1 did drop a liner and bust a piston skirt at 172k, original head gaskets looked great when I opened it up.
@@lawy3077 I barely made it to 80k on my D1 before the head gaskets went. Also the ticking lifter noise that is common on those engines is actually the bonded metal inside the rocker arm that makes contact with the pushrod, and not the lifter itself. Another common failure is the clockspring. Regardless, I loved that vehicle.
Reading these comments makes me feel better about the 96 D1 I bought tonight with 217k on it. I've been looking at all kinds of parts and can't believe how easy it is to find affordable components. I was always led to believe that these were more trouble than they're worth but I'm really starting to rethink that after just driving this one for a short time this evening. I can confidently wrench and I love the DIY nature of these things.
I really like these especially the boxy styling - I hate the current Discovery and all the new LR products. They’re also hideously unreliable and cheaply built. Old school is definately the best and I wouldn’t think twice about investing money in one of these over anything new. Great video Wizard
these discos are actually fun , not only to drive, but also to work on... that's if you have the time and more importantly, the space. the disco community is also so helpful... i used to work on fords and hondas, the LR discos are kind of emo with it's issues and the community is very good at diagnosing and reminding not to shoot the "parts cannon."
the undercarriage of this disco was identical to the very first disco i owned... it was a great day when there were no leak spots on the floor!
In the UK you used to be able to pick up a running D2 for under £1000. These days "average" ones are £4000, good ones are £6000 or more and people are selling mint ones for £15000.
I think people have realised that, after the Defender, a D1/D2 is "the" Land Rover to own.
Never messed with Disco 2's, but I've got a few imported Defender 110 diesels. When people ask me how it is to drive them, the best answer I've come up with is that it's a gentleman's tractor. Love them. Strange to see you go through this one and find how many parts are familiar. I constantly check my local wrecking yards for Disco 1's to get parts for my Defenders. -- tons of parts are pretty much identical or can be easily modified to fit.
Thanks for sharing. Actually diagnosed a burnt wire to the fuel pump on my dad's disco tonight. Cool how that happened the same time you posted this video. Its been sitting in the shop for years and yes it has a bad head gasket. He has mud tires, lights, heavy bumper and a winch. I think it's a super cool truck for offroad.
It looks great, love the styling.
The twin globe headlights really help it to still look modern.
These have aged well.
If this D2 had a full detail & some cosmetic items fixed, it would look fantastic..
My wife wanted one so against my better judgment I bought her one.
Worst decision EVER!
I think the longest it ever ran between trips to first the dealership and after the warranty ran out an independent shop was three weeks.
Was happy when it was rear-ended and totaled.
Bought her a Lexus after that and thankfully she just replaces it with another Lexus when it's time to change vehicles.
I know where you are coming from. You have to be an enthusiast and be able to fix them yourself OR have very deep pockets!
Hopefully your wife learned she should leave vehicle choices to you. Can’t tell you how many guys I know whose wives insisted on an Audi only to have it start to break them the second the warranty ran out and before, under warranty, hundreds of hours back and forth to the dealer.
Here in Spain all these Land Rovers from the 90´s and 00´s disappeared from roads with time. Nobody would want an old crappy Land Rover when you could purchase a Japanese suv from the era (Land Cruisers, Monteros, Patrols...) instead. Even the 1st gen Koreans (Ssangyong Rexton, Hyundai Terracan or Kia Sorento) were much better and cheaper to mantain than this
Correct they are GARBAGE, best in junk yard where they belong
@Ozark Living A job change and the resulting long commute made leasing a vehicle not financially viable.
Buying them has proven the better choice because over the five years, we keep the vehicle they usually accumulate 200k miles.
Even with high mileage, but well-maintained, Lexus vehicles have some value.
Still got my 1998 3.9 Efi 350,000 km still going strong, pulls like a train when its needed. Went through a major rebuild of all the axles & transfer box, cylinder heads & cam shaft, sorted all the issues out. Didn’t give it a lift or a snorkel, no checker plate either. Still gets me where I need to go.
No auto headlights, abs, traction control, hill descent, auto wipers, lane departure assist, just a key to start it!
Head gaskets
Oil pan gasket
Timing cover gasket
Radiator
Interior seat switches
Flex disks
Rear air suspension
Brake calipers, (on disco 1)
Horn buttons
Electrical system
Spark plug wires
Sounds like the Dodge Chrysler line.😅😅😅
My TD5 Commercial is heading on to 300k miles. I am at my third transfer box and I have the air suspension on the back one time fully restored. I had the chainwheel disaster happen to my engine ones, but that is almost 150k miles ago. Last my key receiver box in the sealing went belly up and is replaced. The strut towers and the rear chassis has been welded but I love here to bits. She is not my daily and next to my Unimog S404 she is not the best 4x4 I have, but she still competes in trails and is a happy bunny.
The Oldsmobile version of the 215 had an extra row of head bolts since Olds was turbocharging some F85s and Cutlasses. The Olds 215 then had fewer head gasket issues than the Buicks did. British Leyland acquired molds and other tooling for both versions, and then went cheap.
When a bad engineering decision may be made, BL would do it.
@@waiting4aliens This was pre-BL, as Rover were using the 3.5L engine before British Leyland even existed.
The triple row is largely regarded as failing more often than the twin row, as tightening the extra row is thought to lessen clamping pressures on the second row and causing the gasket to leak.
Ah yes... The one I forever regret letting get away. I swapped an Olds 215V8 into my 73 Vega GT, in 1975. It weighed just 20 pounds more than the awful original 4 cylinder nightmare. It got better gas mileage too! The best engine swap I ever did.
When were the Olds 215s originally made? I thought everything was superchargers into the 70s or 80s?
The only discovery you’ll make is how deep pockets really can go.
FORD: Fix it Again Tony. Amirite?
@@tcm81 that's a Fiat Dale!
Or the thing you popped in ur anus
@@tcm81 FORD would be...
F(_)!n Old Rebuilt Dodge!
Or, Found On Roadside Daily!
Or, Found On Road Dead!
Or, Fixed Or Repaired Daily!
As you can clearly see, I could go on for days! 🤣🤣
Hahah. Ive had my hands in these machines since they were mechanically sound and lucas electronic deficient. Always a Achilles heel... W expensive junk.
Mr Wizard! Thank you for the great review on the Discos🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 You just said it btw. Get to know them before buying them 👍🏼 as long things get situated with gaskets and amigos etc. You’re all good to go. It’s unfortunate people who bought these failed to perform the proper maintenance on them, and didn’t read the manual. The highest mileage I’ve seen on a D2 was near 260k and still pushing…
Had one of those...main problem is chassis rust, but the inner wheel arches can also rust. Water ingress is also a problem, but mostly easy to fix....'a' pillar and sunroof. I did like it a lot...mine was a TD5 diesel of course in the UK...but sold it due to the rust. I would definitely buy another one without the rust. 3 amigos is usually a sticking valve in the ABS pump...easy fix.
They are collectible, because you can't reliably drive them so they collect in your garage.
Good one😂
I have one and very reliable, the guys that is complaining is the ones that don't look after them and buy the 2004 td5 you can thank me later, have a good one
The problem is unfortunately wen you buy it of an owner who did not took care of it, yes had that 3 amigos 2 times couse it tells you there is something worth checking, found out it was time for new batty
@@jkh.racing we did not get the TD5 in North America - just V8's.
@@RichGallant oh ok, that's sad couse they're the most reliable ones, if my td5 motor give in il probably go the LS route
Hey Wizard, You’ve gotta talk about the 2013-19 Ford Escape, I work at a Ford store and these cars come in on flatbeds every single day with major failures. I’ve heard mainly transmissions and head gaskets from the owners that have them trailered or towed in. The salesmen flock over these people like flies and try and get them to trade them in.
rear output shaft gear to mutch slack. grears have to mutch play. mine broke around 188000 km multiple times. cluch broke 3 times until upgraded to defender versoin. blown engine due to jumped timing, Greabox went out same time. Drove great. Engine tilt to front so air stays in the head. Or vacuum fill or drill a plug at highest spot so you can bleed easy.
on td5 there is a bleed in the top hose to remove air
Great intro vidjo on the Disco, Car Wizard! I have a 98 Disco 1 that I rescued a couple of years ago and love it. It had been sitting in a barn for 8 years after it failed inspection due to a very rusty frame, floor and firewall. I spend half my summer underneath it fixing all that, along with some pretty dodgy previous electrical "repairs". It's now a very solid truck that I mostly use to tow stuff in the summer, and as my main winter ride. These are very quiet and comfortable, even somewhat luxurious, and they are unstoppable in snow! That's a very good thing, cuz I live in Canada. Cheers!
Those Land Rover Discovery 1's were a very popular vehicle to scrap during the Cash-for-Clunkers program. I saw dozens of them at the local Pick-and-Pull scrapyards during those years.
Got one just like it. Refurbing the XYZ switch solves the 3 amigos problem. The central locking system is hard chipped into the underhood fuse box, window motors and regulators fail regularly.... and as you mention, the head gaskets.. stretch bolts are a trip to "torque".
XYZ switch???
@@2nickles647 The XYZ switch is under the car, attached to the transmission. It is a series of copper contacts that provide feedback to the car on what gear the automatic transmission selector is placed. The switch gets corroded and if the ecm can't tell the position of the gear selector... it puts the Disco in a limp mode... permanent 3rd gear... won't down shift, or OD, plus you get the 3 Amigos. The switch is permanently sealed, but you can drill out the rivets, spit the switch case, use a mild abrasive to clean the contacts, reseal the case and pop rivet back together. A new switch is about $500 if you can find one.
Easy peasy... nothing hard
Budget $5k to fix the problems it will have when you buy it, and then another $2k per year for ongoing maintenance and repair.
Plus, as others have said, you will worry each time you drive it that you’ll “discover” some new issue.
I’ve had my 2000 since new, and I love the way it looks and drives, and I cherish the memories, but by now I’ve replaced most of the original parts, including the engine. Thank goodness for extended warranties!
So it's basically Theseus's ship at this point? 😀
Triggers brush
Soccer moms loved these in the late 90’s and early 2000’s - great for off-roading to the local mall.
After the ABS on my 97 Disco kicked in and caused me to go thru a red light while towing a trailer, I disabled the ABS and never looked back. As a bonus, my front brake pads and rotors lasted 3X longer without the ABS. Oh, and it still stops just fine without the ABS.
One thing you didn't point out Wizard was that unusual parking brake... On the rear drive shaft. If you drive the car with it engaged, it will deatroy the transmission, which is very expensive to replace.
I "collected" my 97 in 99 and have driven it ever since. There have been some issues here and there, but it has actually been pretty reliable. The OEM springs and shocks on Disco 1 are crap. I replaced with OME springs, Bilstien shocks within a year or two. Vig improvwment and they last!
And, yes, they are pretty easy to work on. A lot of stuff is designed to be repaired with very basic tools or no tools at all.
The Disco 1 headlights are glass and don't fog up or yellow like the plastic ones. The Disco 1 also has black paint where the plastic trim was broken or missing from that Disco 2. The Disco 1 has metal bumpers with easily replaced plastic end caps, too.
If I recall correctly, that 2004 Disco 2 was the last year they used the body on frame design (very heavy duty, 1 ton rated) AND the last year with the Buick-derived all aluminum V8. After all, at Ford bought the brand on 2000 and probably didn't fully appreciate the GM engine. The brand was again sold, this time to Tata of India (Mahindra tractors).
The first car the Buick V8 was used on in the UK was the P5B Saloon/Coupe. The queens private car. I have owned 2 Saloons, Wish I still owned them now.
The P6B was a lovely car too, same engine, I believe they were sold in the US.
I just got a 2000 disco 2 … put a rebuild motor with a 4.6 & rebuild trans & transfer case …
I love it … runs like new again
V8's (You lucky people) best keep the cooling system in top order. Steering boxes, don't turn the steering wheel until the road wheels are rolling. Three Amigos, usually a wheel sensor, a common fault. However, I have never had that issue because I don't dunk my car in cold muddy water. 110 miles - nicely run in. 180 thou in my TD5. High mileages are common. Wow, that is so clean underneath! Rear output gearbox seals can go as well as the transfer box and are unobtainable, but a recon box can be purchased from Ashcroft Transmissions. You are a Top Man Car Wizard!
I fell in love with Land rovers when I was a kid watching Daktari . Having friends that have owned them I will pass . I would consider restoring one from the 50's or 60's .
My parents had one from like 2005-2017. Learned to drive on it - great truck!!
2004 was the last year these were made
@@jamesgarret4030 Yeah it was used when they bought it
theirs was a 2001
95 percent of all land rovers in Ireland and indeed Europe are diesels,,it's very rare to see a petrol one,,the diesels can go 300k miles plus if looked after...
Before even watching it - external head gasket coolant leaks, slipped cylinder liners that make it sound like a steam engine, external oil leaks, thermostat failures, rusting at the front drive shaft double-cardan joint from the HVAC drain, secondary air system and transfer case leaks.
Did I list everything? Nope I forgot about the ABS module failures as well. Ok now let’s watch it.
Ok..you just named of the Ford f150 trucks..😅😅😅
Hey Wizard & Mrs Wizard, thanks for sharing another informative video!!! 👍👍🙂
I remember the ads for the air bag suspension, they said in off road the inflated rear bags would add ground clearance. My grandma had one! She loved it.
A lot of the older ones either the compressor failed or the bags broke
I am a grandma and I love my rover disco despite its issues so fun to drive ❤
I would suggest to the customer that they consider reconditioning the headlights if not right now then perhaps at some point in the future. So long as they're not cracked. I certainly understand that they don't want to restore the whole thing, but the hazy headlights is more of a safety concern at least for me it would be.
If they are plastic can be polished
My Discovery 2 is at 230,000! It definitely requires love, but it’s worth it.
I am a 96 D1 owner and you have to be diligent with maintenance - LR's are not Toyota Honda Subaru for sure. Now a days customers will not stand for a vehicle that has a lot of problems at 100K miles - I also have an 01 Toyo LC and the build quality between the LC and Disco are night and day of course I think I paid less than $30 for my SD Disco and $55-60k for the LC but my LC has about 200K and the Disco 100K and the LC still seems like a new car compared to the D1.
If you live in the rust area, check the rear frame, its very common that they rot there and also check if the 4x4 lever still works and not disconnected as its controlled with wire and not electronic
I bought an 04 in need of a head gasket. Turns out the first owner (I'm 3rd) really loved this car and had the engine top hat sleeved. I thought I struck gold... Until I've had 7 of the threads strip out of the engine block. It's been a nightmare and so far I've done the passenger head 4x just to do 1 HG job. The drivers side coming up to the same number at this point. I'm a Mechanic by trade and have experience on older Rovers, but what I thought would be a fun project has been a lesson in pain.
Given the choice between a 90's Discovery 1 or a 90's FJ80. I will take the Toyota every time. Similar problems, mileage, and cost between the two I just prefer the inline dohc more then the 60's pushrod tech.
Keep up the disco content! I’m a fellow Kansan that has a few daily drivers. I have a ‘98 D1 and an ‘04 camp rig. My fiancé has an ‘02 daily mocked up as a G4 challenge rig.
I got lucky and found a running 01 D2se7 with very minor issues, only paid 2K for it With a set of 5 off-road rims and tires already on it and the original 5 rims.. The body looks great, with no dents or rust. The front and rear bumper didn't look that great, though, and I would have replaced them anyway. 160k miles. the headliner had already been rhino lined. Lots of the little upgrades that people do where already done to this one.
03-04 were 4HP24’s since being 4.6L. Transfer cases are 3 o rings the rest is sealant.
Land Rover has pretty much discontinued everything now on a D2 unfortunately.
I had the TD5 auto, 2000 plate. The sun roof’s leaked when I got it. Took them out and fixed them
took the cloth roof off and painted the roof lining. New water pump. Then had it for 5 years and sold it for what I had paid. Great car but the engine had been modified and it only did 17 miles per gallon
on a good day
Great overview!
2004 is the best year! Locking diffs!
Locking center diff aka transfer case. No differential lockers just traction control.
Some years had the centre diff lock but no lever
The DiscoDivas 1 and 2 are my great loves. Looks and all. My father sold his D2 and argued that it wasn't a car for me . Ha! If there is one car I would hug goodnight, it is a Disco! Hard to keep tho as I don't have a driver's licence.... 😢 15 K SEK is just the start fir the darn expensive lil card.
Later larger engines can suffer from cracks behind the cylinder liner and become quite nasty. ARP fasteners rather than the factory bolts, just don't over tighten the outer ones to factory torque as it pulls the head over. If overheated they can suffer from a loose liner which will confuse many a mechanic with a tick a idle. Being flat tappet, those issues are fun at rebuild, roller available but($).
Only referencing the older ones, buy the 3.5 or 3.9. If you can't do your own stuff, being older vehicles you best go and buy something else and pay the man and do some OT.
At least over here can be bought pretty cheap, maintained at a reasonable cost by DIY and once sorted, at least the earlier ones will give you good service. Get alot of comments from people 'who have heard'. Keeps the price down.
0:21 the headlights would not make it through the biannual inspection and cleaning would not really work until you use polishing paste which is forbidden here due to changing the way the light would take and replacements are so terrible expensive that you would not buy that car until you get a huge discount that will pay for the replacements.
The transfer case also leaks out of the intremediate shaft at the front of housing ! Uni joints can fail on the carden joint due to no grease nipples and moisture from the A.C. drain !
Have a '97 that got to 350k-ish miles. Was run off the road and jumped 2.5 concrete culverts. No injuries on my part but the Rover is in traction at the moment. Think I'll buy a couple more and I'll have enough parts to keep one going for several years. 🙂
350k whaaaaat, not possible
I've owned two of these, one from new; they ride great, handle fabulously for a SUV, do offroad in comfort and with ease. The V8 engine has its issues, lots of them. As for the tranny, the ZF is okay if it's serviced. Good video Wizard. Gooday from Australia.
I had 2002 Land Rover Discovery II SE model. I bought three years with low miles certified preowned. I couldn’t wait to sell the car once I got it paid off.
Excellent video for peps wanting to do their own mechanical work in this current era.
Hey. It is not about if they are colectible, it's all about they are tough vehicle. Brand new 4x4 are so expensive and people want to make some overlannding, that's why their prices going up. Regards from Poland 🇵🇱
This is one of my all time favorite SUV’s / actual off-roaders. Will get one some day.
Disco Mk1 prices going up here in the UK, especially very clean ones.
I hope they do anyway because I am so deep into welding up a 3.9 ES I paid £375 GBP for it would be nice if it was worth something at the end!
The engine created by Buick ended up as the 3800 V6 in the end. My 94 4.2 Rover V8 had the top hat liners installed with ARP studs. Never had another issue.
Great video, I owned my for about three years. Got cheap had a radiator issue fix. So a few days ago, I got home at night parked it, next morning the brakes were gone. The pedal to the floor, no visible fluid anywhere. When I depressed the pedal, I hear a click coming from the gear handle area. Anyway I have to figure that out.
Funny thing about the GM 215 (That's read Buick & Olds 215) --- People will see 215 Pontiac listed somewhere, and think it's the V-8 (the common BOP mindset). It's not. The Pontiac 215 is a cast iron, inline six, built only in 1964 & 1965 for the Tempest and Lemans models.
Great video as always Wizard. I’ve had 4 disco’s (two on the drive now). Just pulled the latest one out of a field for less then the price of a repaint and heads. These are great cars and I echo that they certainly are becoming classics. Cheers.
9:02 ... double Cardano joint...after the Italian mathematician Gerolamo Cardano, who was an early writer on gimbals, although his writings mentioned only gimbal mountings, not universal joints.
Just bought a 2000 discovery with 120k miles and man I can tell you it’s definitely a project car 100%. I could only find 2 mechanics out of like 30 in the city that would touch it. I hate it and I love it but she needs a lot of work to look solid.
I remember when this was what people pointed to when they said modern SUVs are crap.
Though not a disco, the L322 with the bmw m62 is probably the more reliable buy if you want an older LR
I enjoy my 03 4.6L V8 with 156k , I work on it myself.. has small lift and a daily driver.. just about to replace front wheel bearings this next weekend
ha! spoke too soon.. my power steering pump just went south and emptied the contents of my fluid on my drive! nice! time to break out the wrenches again lol
97 D1 with 206k miles. Did the heads once years ago and it just keeps going. Monitor your fluids and keep it clean. It'll last a lifetime. Can't say the same about the D2s. Those block castings are not great.
oh and don't forget the steel liners often start slipping and can tap you will hear it when warm at idle
....and this model has anti rust feature on the underside (oil leaking keeps the corrosion down ) and makes the nuts and bolts easier to undo......
Walmart for headlight polishing, best actual deal. In the auto center.
Very true
I miss my 1998 Disco I. I had way over 100K, and it ran like a champ! Also installed a 2 inch lift kit on it. Rock solid truck, and the only reason i got rid of it, is because the damn sunroofs leaked, and when it was time to change my fuel pump, which is one of the easiest ever to do on these vehicles, i noticed that my whole floor under the carpet was pure rust. just broke my heart.
A mate of mine had one, new, back in the day. His happiest day of ownership was when he traded it in on a HiLux.
Hilux is a win win, they run problem free for many many miles/kilometers without digging out more $$$
As a dad, I approve of this thumbnail. 👍🏼
I have heard that some of these engines actually wear through the cylinder wall and that causes blown head gaskets. Have you ever seen that?
Wearing through the cylinder wall does not blow a head gasket.
The cylinder wall is at the side of the piston.
The head gasket is above the piston.
I think you're referring to the fact that some can slip a liner in the cylinder, however this usually happened early in the life of any motor it'll happen to OR it'd have to have been severely overheated to deform the block/heads and let the cylinder slip.
Great video Car Wizard! I've always been interested in owning a Discovery 2/3. I was hoping you would have mentioned the ballpark cost and difficulty level associated with the common fail points and whether a shade-tree mechanic should tackle them. Keep you excellent videos flowing. I'm a big fan!
I'd reason that no shade tree mechanic should be allowed near any import. Even most legit, small scale neighborhood shops are gonna have a hard time with most modern euro-imports. If you invest in one, you're gonna need to bank on either taking it to the dealership for maintenance and repairs, or finding someone like the guy in this video (which will likely mean shipping your vehicle several hundred miles away). It's a matter of proprietary parts, even proprietary tools in many cases, as well having the requisite knowledge of all the ways these cars differ in design from what's common in domestic cars.
I've seen a few people buy expensive garage ornaments because a critical problem arose and they simply cannot find (or often afford) the right kind of shop to address it. So it just sits, mocking their purchase.
If you can wrench it doesn't get much easier than a Disco, and the factory manual is free. Parts aren't bad when you find a good vendor. There's a really good used parts guy in the LR World if you're in the USA. Lots of vendors use Rovah in their names to avoid being sued.
Disco 3 or LR3 in NA is the one to get with the 4.4 petrol, I've had a disco 1 before and a disco 2, the 1 is better than the 2, the 2's had more issues neither has enough horsepower the 4.4 Jag V8 fixes that. I've kept mine going and haven't spent much, you can definitely fix them yourself if you know cars they aren't that hard to work on and don't require too many specialized tools, Land Rover owners have great communities online so it is very easy to get information about common issues. The suspension bits are a wear item as are brakes and tires, but the engines don't need much, the ZF trans is good as long as you service it, the air suspension is surprisingly reliable.
It's a Land Rover so either you need a "rover mechanic" or you need to become one yourself, they are not "straight forward" cars, for example you may find your LR3 isn't shifting gears, you may think the transmission is bad, no it is most likely a burned out brake light or the break peddle switch has gone bad, a regular mechanic gets this wrong 9 times out of 10. I do most of my own work but also have a very knowledgeable rover mechanic(most expensive), a euro mechanic who owns and extensively off-roads a Land Rover(less expensive but still expensive), a general mechanic is is very competent and works cheaper but doesn't know land rover oddities(cheap).
Skip the dealers all together, if I did everything I've done the last 5 years at the dealer it would have been 15k vs. the 3k I've spent doing it myself, they charge like 2k for a brake pad and rotor job over $500 per axle for parts($178 per rotor, $180 for pads, the hardware is extra, $40 for a sensor, brake fluid) plus 3 hours labor at like $200 per hour literally most dealers are $1800 plus tax. I did it myself parts are like $350, I used to get parts cheaper it was like $250 and honestly quality after market is actually better than the factory brakes which are just OK. I had to do calipers, they are $450 each at the dealer or like $100 warrantied for life on fcpeuro, hoses were like $10 on rockauto. So for around $550 in parts I did what the dealer wanted $3400 for, it took me like 3 hours to do. They wanted 3k to do a transmission service, I bought the metal pan kit at Atlantic British for like $300 and paid the euro mechanic $400 to do the job. They wanted $1500 to fix the traction control errors claiming I need a new control module and a new selector switch, I cleaned the contacts on the modules, cleaned the grounds, reprogrammed the module with ids and it works without any codes or errors. I did lower and upper control arms, sway bar links, and tie rods, parts were $600, the dealer wanted $3600 to do the same job. They charge like $1200 for the 100k mile tune up and I did it and the parts were like $250. A coolant flush and new reservoir, well the dealer charges like $50 a gallon for dexcool, prestone from Walmart is $12 a gallon and a $35 tank from fcp did the job for like $100. Generally dealer repairs cost 5-6 times the parts cost and around 2x-3x the cost of the repair at an independent mechanic. Occasionally I take it to the dealer for basic service as they do an inspection and clean the car really well and with the occasional coupon they send it isn't terribly expensive, but for repairs, brakes, tires heck no. It's not a Toyota but you can keep it in good running conditions for not much if you do your own work and find a reasonable mechanic to do what you cannot handle or do in your driveway.
@@shaunbava1801 Thanks so much for including such detailed info and passing along your knowledge. You've gone above and beyond.
@@herecomesaregular8418 Wow, so much wrong in one post. The Disco 1 and 2 (the OP mentioned the 3 which is an entirely different vehicle) are simple and easy to maintain for an owner with basic skills and tools. You don't need anything specialized and there is a huge international support structure of enthusiast owners out there willing to help you with what you don't know. If you're taking it to the dealer for every little thing then yeah, it's going to be brutally expensive and you'll be 'that guy' who cries about 'it's a money pit' and how terrible it is. If you have half an ounce of mechanical skill and don't just drive until something fails catastrophically then send it to the $250/hr dealer it's affordable and a great vehicle. Shop? Why would you need to send it to a shop? As the video pointed out, it's an old-school V8 (or diesel in ROW) with fairly basic tech.
I added a gravel parking space for my disco. Runs great but it’s cheaper to keep topping the fluids than fixing them.
Mine leaked coolant (Water pump) Fuel (regulator) oil from front axle (Seal due to ball joints) but never oil.
@@philtowle4683 mines a 2004 with only 65000 miles. I’ve owned it since new and I’ve never missed a service. It’s just a bad year for them. It’s leaking from the timing cover and the rear main. I usually add a half a quart every 1000 miles.
@@Sprintervan1 I did do the rocker cover gasket but I can't remember whether it was leaking.
Not had any problems with my D2 v8, 240k smooth and reliable, just chassis/ fraim rust problem's
I worked with every oddball dumpster fire in the auto industry::
AMC, Jeep( when owned by AMC ), Renault, Peugeot, Alfa, the infamous Made in USA VWs, ... You name it, I probably worked with them. I thought I had seen it all...and then came Land Rover.
We were busily switching old Counties over to metal springs from their comically engineered air suspension. A customer picked up her 2nd Disco about a month before( first one bought back under lemon law ). It was in for a lengthy stay at the dealership to diagnose various intermittent electronic gremlins. We took turns roadtesting the car armed with a volt/ohm meter and a service manual.
So, I''m out driving around. Odometer @ 2300 miles. 55 mph on the interstate... Suddenly, an amazing sound under the hood, engine stops turning. Into neutral, onto the median, open hood.
Diagnosis: pretty simple: Piston and con rod on number 5 cylinder has exited the engine by blowing a hole in the block about the size of a soccer ball.
Post mortem: bolts on all con rod big ends finger tight....
Great tour
The other thing is they get Timing Chain stretch and start pinging unless feed high octane juice or back off the ignition timing
Timing chain don't stretch
I have a friend who had a D1 for a very long time. He told me that he never had any issues with it. He totaled it in a roll-over. God allowed him to walk away even though he was 6'5". He bought a D2.
My 2002 TD5 took us all around Europe towing a heavy caravan no problem. I upgrade to brand new D4 which broke down twice both times in Europe.
Nice video WIZARD. coil packs, rear main seal, and T-stat are other common issues. I have a 2004 with 223,000 miles. 2 head gaskets later. Still love it but always fixing something.
Another source for info is LR Time - Vera and Christian usually post on Sunday's
Lots of hate for the disco here. The truth is, they are very simple vehicles and dare I say reliable. You wont see many with low miles - this proves they are reliable. The ones with bad blocks have been disposed of or fixed. They provide a unique driving experience - a proper off road rig that can take your family and gear.
I'm just here to give a thumbs up for the 2000s scene band reference
Oh god no! I hate those with a passion.. my teacher changed from Peugeot 406 wagon into disco 2.. never ending problems, his citroen Ds was alot more fun.
awesome as always.thanks for sharing and taking us along