We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
I've recently acquired a 25ft fiberglass sailboat that was built in 1983. The boat shows its age and will require a good bit of restoration. I'm new to boat restoration and have a lot to learn. Your channel has been just the ticket! Your videos have provided me with a lot of super useful information that I can apply to my boat restoration projects. Thank you for sharing the knowledge! It is very much appreciated.
Thanks for the info on the sealants, as I always wondered the difference between 5200 and 4200 now I understand. Also all the time that you put into adding the product LINKS is just fantastic. Your a hard working team!
I just love that magic blue tape and I love the detail and finish you do even on a test piece.. I have no doubt that's how you get/keep your good name as a company and I really feel you love the processes of what you do. Finally, it's great to be able to stand back and say "I did that, what a great job".
Fun fact about 5200. Once opened it will cure in the tube in a short time period. To prevent it from curing in the tube, throw it in the freezer. It will last forever and can be frozen un-frozen many times. The bucket full of used sanding discs is genius! Going to copy that for sure!
Yes, I agree! That is a great tip for sure. I should have mentioned that in the video, maybe next time. Yep, those older used sanding disc's can get a second life sanding the rough fiberglass. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wow! Been watching your videos for a few months now …the experience you have , the details and tips that you provide in every video is outstanding! I’m in the process of restoring ( as an amateur) my 1972 Boston whaler and your informative videos are outstanding!
I love me some 610!! I rebuilt my radar arch on my 30' tollycraft and it was expensive but now bullet proof!!! I have however, had some of those weld ones break off, but a hammer did fall on it tho, but I also put 5200 in a small syringe and fill screw holes with it before I fasten the screw in, so far has worked for me..anyway, ❤ from the chesapeake Joe!!!
Capt Joe and total fish bump family Awesome video wow thanks for your time! Look forward to more videos really love content y'all are sharing so no apologies for the amount of time y'all are taking us to the finish line with our projects
Thanks for another episode. It for sure inspires me to do a better job on my boat. I'm looking forward to the more complex job you planned for. Cheers.
I love the length of the videos you really go into the depth of it the ones like me that have no idea on how to fiberglass and to do are own boat repair you are making it were we can and I really appreciate it and sure a lot of others do to thanks for all the info I left a comment in the first part of this video we’re is the best place to get all the stuff I need to do my boat
Glad you like the content! We have a lot more on the way. We have links below our videos in the descriptions for many of the products we use. If you buy through that it helps support the channel and is much appreciated!
For your info a caulking gun tube of 5200 like you have there down here in New Zealand NZD$59.00. Yes I have removed it and IT DID bring the fibreglass with it. Wasn't aware of the debond
Hello again Captain. Youve mentioned in a couple of videos that you are a coast guard licenced boat builder. What does it take to get that classification? Is it a mandatory classification in us if you want to build boats and use them by yourself/to sell them to other users? So nice to watch a skilled boat builder doing hes thing. Hats off, awesome work.
Yes, that is right. My father was also a professionally licensed boat builder. I grew up working along side him in our family boat shop. When he passed away, I continued building and repairing boats. In the US if you are building boats for sale to the general public, the coast guard has personnel that regulate and monitor each boat builder. We also have the ability to issue our own specific HIN or hull identification number to each boat we build. Hope this helps answer your your questions, thanks for watching!
Hey Captain Joe. Love your channel. I am beginning the process of restoring my late Dad’s 1991 Kenner 21’. I am in the process of putting a new transom. I am wondering if you know what type of wood they used in their stringers. The tops of some stringers can be dug out but about 2” down is some wood that can’t be dug out. I am guessing that wood is still good. The good wood seems very light surrounded by ¼ “ woven roven. Even if some of the wood is not good, the fiberglass around it is very strong. Should I replace them since the fiberglass is what is giving structure? Thanks for the videos!!
Hey Joe. First off. Thank you for all the info you provide. Something I’d like to see how you do it is. Let’s say stringers. Since majority of the material is 8’ long for the core material. How do you go about joining your stringers together for a 16’ long run? Do you just butt them together and let the glass do its job of joining them together?
You are very welcome, glad you are enjoying the videos! I am working on a video to answer that stringer question for you. Hope to have it out next week. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thanks Joe, great info. I want to make a mold, couple feet long, few inches wide. What weight CSM and Biaxial do you use? Also the best polyester for non-shrinkage. Thank you again, I'm not a boat builder, however your info translates to anything in my opinion. Great channel.
When building molds we usually go 100 percent 1 ounce csm. We don't typically use any biaxial glass. A good isophthalic polyester laminating resin like the one we show in our resin selection video from fiberglass warehouse is a very good one for molds. We will be building a mold for a hardtop for our 29 ft charter boat very soon, so stay tuned! I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Sure, try drilling a pilot hole that is the same size as the screws shaft, then drill a slightly larger hole the size of the screws theads down into the first pilot hole about 1/8 of an inch. This should help stop the gelcoat cracking. Hope this helps
Great video, thanks for sharing. Looks like 4200, rubber gloves, and towels are my new best friend for mounting a trolling bracket. Just subscribed to your channel and look forward to future videos.
Hey man I just gave you an excellent reference over on my channel in the video where I make the orange tray. You got some serious skills in glassing and your channel is well worth watching. Cheers from the UK.
Just subscribed a couple days ago watching so many of your videos as i think my first transom build i have totally messed up ie using wrong plywood, not doing the proper methods, using wood glue to bond two pieced of bondo fiberglass resin plywood together with pre drilled holes, now one of your i=videos i watched says you shouldn't use poly over bondo resin but it's okay to use bondo resin over poly, i wanted to switch mid way and add glass with a different resin that doesn't have such a short work time so i might have to start over with new wood and better materials and knowledge, first time go at it with no experience
Welcome to the channel and thanks for subscribing! I try to share with you all techniques that our family has used with success, and that I know will work. There can be various ways of doing things that can still result in a job well done. Glad you are enjoying the channel and I wish you the very best with your project!
Captian once again Perfect job on Videos. I was wondering if on your next Epoxy mockup. Could you put the model piece on a work station? Like a Black and Decker workmate? Then we can see all the way around you work! The camera man can shoot over your soldiers. Once again the information is priceless. I have watched a lot of DYI boats projects and you are the first to actually explain types of Marine caulk 👍thanks
@@FishBumpTV Thanks Captain. Since you have the through bulkhead wire raceways and wire mounts. On your next build or trolling motor install. Do you think you could do a new and upgraded Trolling motor install? Start from nothing like my Trophy build. With your recommended Chart plotter. Thanks again
Thanks so much for watching! Yes, I would aways recommend sealing exposed wood before installing hardware if possible. Especially before it ever has a chance to get any moisture in it. The west system 610, like I showed in this video could work well for your application I would imagine. Hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
It can vary from one to another brand of epoxy. I have used 5 percent or so of denatured alcohol on occasion with good results. I would definitely experiment on some non critical pieces first though. Hope this helps. Thanks for Watching!
Another great one Joe! Definitely gave me some options to consider when mounting my bilge pump and float switch. I thought I read somewhere recently that silicone is a great sealant but that it only holds up for a few years and needs to be replaced? What's your thought on that? Also, am I understanding you correctly that silicone can be used in a greasy bilge? I like the different options you presented. Great info! Also, that taping tip is a great one to ensure a nice and neat job. Tell your cameraman he's doing awesome too!
Thanks! I have had very decent performance out of high quality marine grade silicone, but all sealants degrade over time and may need freshening up eventually. Greasy and oily surfaces are a problem for all adhesives and sealants. Whatever it takes to get the surface cleaned and well prepared is a must. Hope that helps, and I appreciate you watching and commenting !
Absolutely! Sometimes my perfectionism gets in the way. I'm always looking for the best way to get stuff done that produces the longest lasting most durable result. Who knows maybe I have a future in boat building.
Like the diy repairs. Are you going to be putting a top on the boat you built. I have an older boat I would love to put a hard top on my boat !! Keep the videos coming.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, I plan on building a fiberglass hardtop for the new boat, I hope to start soon. Hope it helps answer some questions. Thanks for watching!
If you needed to change where a wire goes, and you did a method that made a hole (like one of those rubber stainless steel clips), what would you recommend doing about the hole that is now left? A real small hole like that, just a screw hole.
The simplest method to seal the hole would be to remove the wire loom, them put some sealant in the hole and run the screw back in. The next method would be to remove the screw and wire loom, clean the area completely to remove all old sealant, drill out the screw hole slightly larger than the original screw to remove any residual sealants down in the screw hole. Then fill the hole with a quality putty, sand putty flat, then gelcoat it to seal the repair. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thank you for the part 2. Great stuff once again. Quick question... Before you sand the cured glass for gelcoat, wouldn't you wipe the area with Acetone to get rid of the wax from the resin? Keep up the good work, Captain Joe😁.
Glad you enjoyed the video! We always use laminating resin, which is wax free. But you can always wipe down with acetone after sanding and prior to gelcoat if you like. hope that helps , thanks for watching!
Quick question. If I want to put a new floor made of fiberglassed plywood in my small open boat and plan to close the hull beneath the floor completely. Do I need to gelcoat the inside of the hull below the floor and the underside of the floor before I glue it in place?
We don't typically gelcoat sealed, non visible, underfloor compartments in our boats. We do usually put a really nice coat of catalyzed resin over everything though. But that's just the way we do it. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
We have done that before, but it would probably be next winter before I could take on a project like that. I do appreciate the offer, thanks for watching!
I really need to fiberglass over an aluminum honeycomb sheet that covers my boats fuel tank. I know you really shouldn’t try that, but do you think I could used the 5200 to stick my first layer of fiberglass to the aluminum and then be able to fiberglass to that?
It is possible that could work, but I have not personally done that before. I would recommend a test panel first, or more research on that application before moving forward. I wish I had more info on that for you.Best of luck with your project!
5200 also dries fast IN THE TUBE! Once you open it, use as much as you can because it will harden in the tube after about a week once opened. I have not tried freezing it after opened, a trick my shop told me to do.
Thats a good point, once you break the seal on a tube of 5200 or 4200 it does not last long. That is why I was just using the small tube of silicone for the demonstration piece in the video. And yes, keeping it cold does slow down the curing process. Thanks for commenting and watching!
The through bolt, if it was an engine install, would not allow for sealing both sides like that, no? Wouldn't it be better in that case to drill a bigger hole and fill it with the Napa Pro Strand to complete fill the hole, then drill it out again?
4200 is the better choice for sure! There is a product called Debond that will break the bond of most marine sealants and adhesives. You should give it a try. Thanks for watching!
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
I've recently acquired a 25ft fiberglass sailboat that was built in 1983. The boat shows its age and will require a good bit of restoration. I'm new to boat restoration and have a lot to learn. Your channel has been just the ticket! Your videos have provided me with a lot of super useful information that I can apply to my boat restoration projects. Thank you for sharing the knowledge! It is very much appreciated.
Glad to help, and thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Much prefer these types of videos.
Glad you are enjoying them! We have more coming soon.
Thanks for the info on the sealants, as I always wondered the difference between 5200 and 4200 now I understand. Also all the time that you put into adding the product LINKS is just fantastic. Your a hard working team!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting.
You don't leave out much. Excellent.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
I find this channel very informative. I am rebuilding a transom of my boat and will apply the things I learned here. I am from South Africa.
Glad the channel is helping with your transom replacement, and I appreciate you watching all of the way from South Africa!
I just love that magic blue tape and I love the detail and finish you do even on a test piece..
I have no doubt that's how you get/keep your good name as a company and I really feel you love the processes of what you do.
Finally, it's great to be able to stand back and say "I did that, what a great job".
Wow, thanks so much! Yes, there is a lot of satisfaction in a job well done.
Fun fact about 5200. Once opened it will cure in the tube in a short time period. To prevent it from curing in the tube, throw it in the freezer. It will last forever and can be frozen un-frozen many times. The bucket full of used sanding discs is genius! Going to copy that for sure!
Yes, I agree! That is a great tip for sure. I should have mentioned that in the video, maybe next time. Yep, those older used sanding disc's can get a second life sanding the rough fiberglass. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks! I knew you'd know this so my comment was more for folks that are trying to learn. Great content!
Wow! Been watching your videos for a few months now …the experience you have , the details and tips that you provide in
every video is outstanding! I’m in the process of restoring ( as an amateur) my 1972 Boston whaler and your informative
videos are outstanding!
Thank you so much, glad the videos are helpful! I appreciate you watching and commenting, and best of luck with your project!
Great content and you are an excellent speaker on camera.👍
Thanks so much! I appreciate the kind words!
I love me some 610!! I rebuilt my radar arch on my 30' tollycraft and it was expensive but now bullet proof!!! I have however, had some of those weld ones break off, but a hammer did fall on it tho, but I also put 5200 in a small syringe and fill screw holes with it before I fasten the screw in, so far has worked for me..anyway, ❤ from the chesapeake Joe!!!
Haha, I agree! The 610 is a great product. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Capt Joe and total fish bump family Awesome video wow thanks for your time! Look forward to more videos really love content y'all are sharing so no apologies for the amount of time y'all are taking us to the finish line with our projects
Thanks 👍 glad you are enjoying the videos!
Another great video taking scariness out of doing boat works Cheers its much appreciated!
Glad to help! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for another episode. It for sure inspires me to do a better job on my boat. I'm looking forward to the more complex job you planned for. Cheers.
Your very welcome, glad to help!
For me, debonder is the best tip in the video!
It's great stuff, glad to help!
Greetings from Norway. Excellent videos! 👍 Embarking on a small fiberglass boat restoration this spring myself, and these videos are gold. Keep it up!
That's awesome! Glad the videos are helpful, best of luck with your project!
Good job man you are the king. Thank you
Wow, thanks! We appreciate you watching!
I love the length of the videos you really go into the depth of it the ones like me that have no idea on how to fiberglass and to do are own boat repair you are making it were we can and I really appreciate it and sure a lot of others do to thanks for all the info I left a comment in the first part of this video we’re is the best place to get all the stuff I need to do my boat
Glad you like the content! We have a lot more on the way. We have links below our videos in the descriptions for many of the products we use. If you buy through that it helps support the channel and is much appreciated!
Loving your work from Melbourne Australia- Learnt quite a lot about the preparation application!
Fantastic, welcome to the channel! Glad you are enjoying the videos.
Awesome job. Really helpful as im in the middle of a restoration of a 25ft yacht. Maybe the furthest away from Christchurch New Zealand
Wow, thanks so much for watching all the way from New Zealand! Wish you the best with your yacht restoration!
Thanks for another bump of information. Detailed and helpful, just like all of the videos from your channel. I sure appreciate it, thank you.
Glad to help! I appreciate you watching and commenting
For your info a caulking gun tube of 5200 like you have there down here in New Zealand NZD$59.00. Yes I have removed it and IT DID bring the fibreglass with it. Wasn't aware of the debond
Wow, Not cheap! The debond work great. Maybe you can try it next time. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello again Captain. Youve mentioned in a couple of videos that you are a coast guard licenced boat builder. What does it take to get that classification? Is it a mandatory classification in us if you want to build boats and use them by yourself/to sell them to other users? So nice to watch a skilled boat builder doing hes thing. Hats off, awesome work.
Yes, that is right. My father was also a professionally licensed boat builder. I grew up working along side him in our family boat shop. When he passed away, I continued building and repairing boats. In the US if you are building boats for sale to the general public, the coast guard has personnel that regulate and monitor each boat builder. We also have the ability to issue our own specific HIN or hull identification number to each boat we build. Hope this helps answer your your questions, thanks for watching!
Thank you !!! Great video !!!
Glad you liked it! I appreciate you watching
Hey Captain Joe. Love your channel. I am beginning the process of restoring my late Dad’s 1991 Kenner 21’. I am in the process of putting a new transom. I am wondering if you know what type of wood they used in their stringers. The tops of some stringers can be dug out but about 2” down is some wood that can’t be dug out. I am guessing that wood is still good. The good wood seems very light surrounded by ¼ “ woven roven. Even if some of the wood is not good, the fiberglass around it is very strong. Should I replace them since the fiberglass is what is giving structure? Thanks for the videos!!
Hey Joe. First off. Thank you for all the info you provide.
Something I’d like to see how you do it is.
Let’s say stringers. Since majority of the material is 8’ long for the core material. How do you go about joining your stringers together for a 16’ long run? Do you just butt them together and let the glass do its job of joining them together?
You are very welcome, glad you are enjoying the videos! I am working on a video to answer that stringer question for you. Hope to have it out next week. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thanks Joe, great info. I want to make a mold, couple feet long, few inches wide. What weight CSM and Biaxial do you use? Also the best polyester for non-shrinkage. Thank you again, I'm not a boat builder, however your info translates to anything in my opinion. Great channel.
When building molds we usually go 100 percent 1 ounce csm. We don't typically use any biaxial glass. A good isophthalic polyester laminating resin like the one we show in our resin selection video from fiberglass warehouse is a very good one for molds. We will be building a mold for a hardtop for our 29 ft charter boat very soon, so stay tuned! I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Any tips on drilling holes for screws so that the top layers of gelcoat dont pop when the screw grabs? Love this page!
Sure, try drilling a pilot hole that is the same size as the screws shaft, then drill a slightly larger hole the size of the screws theads down into the first pilot hole about 1/8 of an inch. This should help stop the gelcoat cracking. Hope this helps
Great video, thanks for sharing. Looks like 4200, rubber gloves, and towels are my new best friend for mounting a trolling bracket. Just subscribed to your channel and look forward to future videos.
Welcome to the channel and best of luck with your project!
Hey man I just gave you an excellent reference over on my channel in the video where I make the orange tray. You got some serious skills in glassing and your channel is well worth watching. Cheers from the UK.
Awesome thank you! I truly appreciate that!
Just subscribed a couple days ago watching so many of your videos as i think my first transom build i have totally messed up ie using wrong plywood, not doing the proper methods, using wood glue to bond two pieced of bondo fiberglass resin plywood together with pre drilled holes, now one of your i=videos i watched says you shouldn't use poly over bondo resin but it's okay to use bondo resin over poly, i wanted to switch mid way and add glass with a different resin that doesn't have such a short work time so i might have to start over with new wood and better materials and knowledge, first time go at it with no experience
Welcome to the channel and thanks for subscribing! I try to share with you all techniques that our family has used with success, and that I know will work. There can be various ways of doing things that can still result in a job well done. Glad you are enjoying the channel and I wish you the very best with your project!
Captian once again Perfect job on Videos. I was wondering if on your next Epoxy mockup. Could you put the model piece on a work station? Like a Black and Decker workmate? Then we can see all the way around you work! The camera man can shoot over your soldiers. Once again the information is priceless. I have watched a lot of DYI boats projects and you are the first to actually explain types of Marine caulk 👍thanks
Thanks so much, I appreciate the suggestion! I will try and make that happen for you guys. Glad you found the video to be helpful!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks Captain. Since you have the through bulkhead wire raceways and wire mounts. On your next build or trolling motor install. Do you think you could do a new and upgraded Trolling motor install? Start from nothing like my Trophy build. With your recommended Chart plotter. Thanks again
Great information! Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
Another great video. Hope your channel grows immensely Capt. keep them coming. Of you need a demo boat I’d gladly lend you mine😂
Haha, I hear ya man! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Great video capt Joe what about new cut speaker holes how would you seal the wood or would you ? Thanks again love the videos
Thanks so much for watching! Yes, I would aways recommend sealing exposed wood before installing hardware if possible. Especially before it ever has a chance to get any moisture in it. The west system 610, like I showed in this video could work well for your application I would imagine. Hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
@@FishBumpTV actually the haul is fiberglass it is a crownline
Joe, how best to thin epoxy resin so the it soaks into the wood fibers to help prevent gas bubbles on live edge table tops.
Thank you
It can vary from one to another brand of epoxy. I have used 5 percent or so of denatured alcohol on occasion with good results. I would definitely experiment on some non critical pieces first though. Hope this helps. Thanks for Watching!
Mate, these tutorials are excellent 👌
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment
Another great one Joe!
Definitely gave me some options to consider when mounting my bilge pump and float switch.
I thought I read somewhere recently that silicone is a great sealant but that it only holds up for a few years and needs to be replaced? What's your thought on that?
Also, am I understanding you correctly that silicone can be used in a greasy bilge?
I like the different options you presented. Great info! Also, that taping tip is a great one to ensure a nice and neat job.
Tell your cameraman he's doing awesome too!
Thanks! I have had very decent performance out of high quality marine grade silicone, but all sealants degrade over time and may need freshening up eventually. Greasy and oily surfaces are a problem for all adhesives and sealants. Whatever it takes to get the surface cleaned and well prepared is a must. Hope that helps, and I appreciate you watching and commenting !
Absolutely! Sometimes my perfectionism gets in the way. I'm always looking for the best way to get stuff done that produces the longest lasting most durable result. Who knows maybe I have a future in boat building.
Like the diy repairs. Are you going to be putting a top on the boat you built. I have an older boat I would love to put a hard top on my boat !! Keep the videos coming.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, I plan on building a fiberglass hardtop for the new boat, I hope to start soon. Hope it helps answer some questions. Thanks for watching!
CRUISING THE CUT youtuber David sent us to your channel with high recommendations especially about your fiberglass expertise. We've subscribed, too.
Fantastic! Thank you so much for joining the channel! We several new fiberglass, epoxy and gelcoat DIY type videos in the works, hope you enjoy.
If you needed to change where a wire goes, and you did a method that made a hole (like one of those rubber stainless steel clips), what would you recommend doing about the hole that is now left? A real small hole like that, just a screw hole.
The simplest method to seal the hole would be to remove the wire loom, them put some sealant in the hole and run the screw back in. The next method would be to remove the screw and wire loom, clean the area completely to remove all old sealant, drill out the screw hole slightly larger than the original screw to remove any residual sealants down in the screw hole. Then fill the hole with a quality putty, sand putty flat, then gelcoat it to seal the repair. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Great ideas, thank you! Wish you all the success in your videos.
Thank you for the part 2. Great stuff once again. Quick question... Before you sand the cured glass for gelcoat, wouldn't you wipe the area with Acetone to get rid of the wax from the resin? Keep up the good work, Captain Joe😁.
Glad you enjoyed the video! We always use laminating resin, which is wax free. But you can always wipe down with acetone after sanding and prior to gelcoat if you like. hope that helps , thanks for watching!
@FishBumpTV ok that makes sense. Thank you for the answer 👍
Quick question. If I want to put a new floor made of fiberglassed plywood in my small open boat and plan to close the hull beneath the floor completely. Do I need to gelcoat the inside of the hull below the floor and the underside of the floor before I glue it in place?
We don't typically gelcoat sealed, non visible, underfloor compartments in our boats. We do usually put a really nice coat of catalyzed resin over everything though. But that's just the way we do it. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
How often do sealants need to be redone ? Such a bolts and screws that make contact with water.
Great content sir
Thank you very much!
Some ideas:
Make a big flange lip on molds so the part doesn't get stuck.
HDPE might be a good fuel tank material.
Thanks for the suggestion
I am thinking about buying a boat and then putting two motors on it. Is this something you do and where are you located. Thanks
We have done that before, but it would probably be next winter before I could take on a project like that. I do appreciate the offer, thanks for watching!
21:12 Just stumbled across your channel today. I’m loving the education!
Welcome! Thanks!
I really need to fiberglass over an aluminum honeycomb sheet that covers my boats fuel tank. I know you really shouldn’t try that, but do you think I could used the 5200 to stick my first layer of fiberglass to the aluminum and then be able to fiberglass to that?
It is possible that could work, but I have not personally done that before. I would recommend a test panel first, or more research on that application before moving forward. I wish I had more info on that for you.Best of luck with your project!
5200 also dries fast IN THE TUBE! Once you open it, use as much as you can because it will harden in the tube after about a week once opened. I have not tried freezing it after opened, a trick my shop told me to do.
Thats a good point, once you break the seal on a tube of 5200 or 4200 it does not last long. That is why I was just using the small tube of silicone for the demonstration piece in the video. And yes, keeping it cold does slow down the curing process. Thanks for commenting and watching!
The through bolt, if it was an engine install, would not allow for sealing both sides like that, no? Wouldn't it be better in that case to drill a bigger hole and fill it with the Napa Pro Strand to complete fill the hole, then drill it out again?
On outboard motor installations you can get to both sides, and you would have sealant on both sides. Thanks for Watching
If i use airbrush with 2.2 mm , how long do I wait from first coat to second ?
Usually 10 to min, or till first coat has started to tack a bit. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you very much! Regards from Estonia!
Now you know you are dealing with an expert if he can find the edge and tear of multiple pieces of masking tape while wearing gloves! Great video.
Haha, thank you!
How the hell does this guy stay so clean??
Haha, lots of practice! Thanks for Watching
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Anyone who uses 5200 on thru hull fitting should be dragged my their ear and forced to remove the fitting themself.
4200 is the better choice for sure! There is a product called Debond that will break the bond of most marine sealants and adhesives. You should give it a try. Thanks for watching!