This man deserves full sponsorship from the brands he uses. Not only is he a true professional, but the results of his hard work are always right there to back it up. Honestly, watching him almost makes me want to get back into restoration myself. For the new DIY'ers out there, you don’t realize how helpful Joe’s content is. Back in 2007, when I restored my boat, none of this was available on TH-cam. Keep rocking, Joe! I’d love to meet you one day-just to shake your hand. You're such a humble and genuine person. Thank you, sir!
Joe you are simply the best fiberglassing teacher anywhere. You take away that over informed paralysis you mentioned. Because we only need your teachings to tackle any repair job with confidence.
Hands off to your tutorial! The level of detail and practical tips you’ve included are in a completely different league compared to anything else I’ve seen. You didn’t just skim the surface; you really broke down each step in a way that’s easy to follow but still packed with depth -thank you!
Great. Very good teacher and demonstrator of how it should be done with techniques that were learned through experience. No school can teach that. Thanks for putting up these videos
Wirklich lieb , wie Joe auch seinen Vater so positiv in Erinnerung bringt . Einfach nur klasse Erklärungen . Extrem hilfreich und sehr gut zu verstehen . DANKE 👍👍👍
Thank you! He was a great Dad, and I wish he was still with us. I think he would have loved the channel and really enjoyed seeing the positive effect his work has had on so many people!
I love the way you explain and teach. You make it look uncomplicated and easy - I know looks are deceiving 😂. I definitely appreciate your knowledge and experience.
Wow, thanks so much! I hope the videos inspire people to give gelcoat and fiberglass work a try. Just remember to do plenty of research, start with something small and non critical, and plan out everything you will need. I hope this helps and I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thank you for these informative videos. I'm 87 years old and have enjoyed many different hobbies in those years. I started by painting a car with. what ever paint they had at the hardware store and a "bug-a-boo" hand pump sprayer. I filled the molding holes to "customize" a car using "liquid soldier". Didn't have "body fillers " yet. I've built two boats (under 16 feet) that I fiberglassed. I repaired a couple of boats that got bounced off the rocks. In the '60's I learned about acrylic enamel paint and painted every car that friends would let me. Now thanks to TH-cam and people like you I am learning about a world of new products. Again, thank you
Welcome to the channel, and thanks for sharing your experiences with us! I feel honored to have a person such as yourself, watch our videos, and respond with such a nice comment! Happy to share what my father taught me and what I have learned since he passed away over 30 years ago with you all. I wish you many more years and much success with any fiberglass related projects that you might choose to take on!
Yep, it's sad to see! Maybe sharing our families' experience and skills here on the channel will help keep some of this knowledge alive. Thanks for watching and commenting!
As a DIYer starting my own skiff build/refurb, these videos have been filled with so much information and detail. Normally I'd struggle to watch a 20 min video on TH-cam, but your videos are so damn captivating and educational I cant help but to watch every minute of your videos. You make it seem so easy. You def put out 9 generations of information in each video. Just one request. Can you show how you'd repair a crack/hole in a keel? Please keep the videos coming. My skiff depends on it.
Wow, thanks! What a nice comment! I will try to do a video on that the next opportunity I get. I appreciate you watching and wish you the best with your project!
I am 90% complete with a 4ftx2ft hole in my boat. Following many of your videos and the steps in this one have proven the education worked. Thank YOU! Never too much detail and your content is on point. I'll be gel coating this weekend in the hopes to start the finish sanding process soon! My beginner tips for anyone else trying this.... 1. I went through 3x as many gloves as I thought I would 2. The initial wetting out of the repair area @23:36 and the back side of the glass to lay down proved critical in getting air bubbles out early. I kept starving my fiberglass at first with not wetting out enough 3. When sanding fiberglass tape the suit sleeves to your gloves with a bit of painters tape, not doing this I was surprised how itchy my forearms were even with gloves and a suit on.
It's nice to see someone as passionate about what they do as you are. It is obvious that you love to work with composites and teach others your skills. I, for one, really appreciate your effort and dedication to providing useful content and imparting your knowledge to us. Thanks Logan, great job behind the camera.
HAY SHOUT OUT TO FISHBUMP FOR THE CHANNEL. I recently bought a 1976 bayliner nisqually with the flying bridge. I have had to remove all old stringers due to rot and will be replacing them and a complet rebuild on this boat. I completely appreciate the FISHBUMP CHAMMEL you have given me insight on what to use and how to get a good prepped surface for rework. I have never done any fiberglass work but am all forward on this project. And am a pretty handy kinda guy so with your help I know I will end up with a very good strong product. Thank your family
Fantastic, welcome to the channel! Sounds like a great project boat, and I wish you all the best. We will be starting the process of replacing the transom, stringers, and floor soon on our project boat. There should be lots of useful info in this series to help give you a clear picture of what to expect along the way. Thanks for watching!
This is my "going to TH-cam university". I am so glad to find professionals like them, going out of their way to spread the knowledge for I assume not too much compensation at all. Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany!
Another great one ! Work for flagpole light pole company in New Hampshire and have taken over mold repairs and building new ones that we use to cast are products. I can't believe how much your content has helped me get started in what is my new trade.
This makes me want to redo my 2003 key west console. It doesn’t need it but your videos definitely make it easy to understand and make it easier for us diy people. Keep doing what you do.
What a great video, and you are a great teacher. Originally, I started watching with no intention of watching a whole hour, but the info and your presentation made me want to watch every minute. Im now subscribed and will be going back through your other videos. Thanks.
Thanks a lot, Jonas here from Portugal, your videos have been helping a lot, just bought a old Four Winns (91) and i'm bringing it to modern times, so redoing all the interior including the layout itself, so a bit of woodwork was needed to do the new layout and finished of with fiberglass over, soo your knowledge as been really really helpful. Now covering all the aesthetic part soo this video did really help, thanks a lot and please keep realising videos, as a young man (26) working in this industry sometimes it's not too easy to find the right tools and techniques, also sadly despite our sailor heritage as a country today we don't have a boat culture among middle class, soo again, thanks for all the help, not only for the technical part but seeing someone doing this with such pride and care motivates a lot to do things in a proper way.
Hi Captain Joe! I don't know how many times I can say this but I learn something new from every video you post! Thank you so much! I hadn't ever thought to layer up the 3 layer fiberglass patch in the tray and then apply it. Nice! Oh, and don't worry about the video length! I love the format! Thanks again and all the best from California!🧡
Strong knowledge level. If you are new to glassing, watch his vids do it right and you will do it once. I knows what i see, my Dad was an industrial pipe-fitter.
Been messing with glass since I was a teenager. Your videos are a welcome addition to anyone wanting to understand the processes to properly do glasswork.
Camera work is awesome on all of your videos!!! Rebuilding my Mako 17 and have learned so much! Thank you and your son for sharing your time and knowledge with all of us DIY’ers! God bless! Frank Amelia Island FL
This is my go to channel to learn how to rebuild my 13ft fiberglass skiff. Excited to see how you do the floors and everything that will go under them. I am currently stuck trying to figure out the best place for a battery and wiring chase under the deck.
That's fantastic! My first boat was a skiff my father built for me with a 20 hp tiller steer, pull crank Johnson. I had an absolute blast in that little skiff! Thanks for watching all of the way from Beautiful Bermuda 🇧🇲!
Keep these videos coming! I just came in from working on my boat for a few hours doing almost the same thing you are. For the people out there just remember if you mess up you can simply sand it down, it’s that easy. Love you videos Captain!
@@FishBumpTV oh and btw mixing your filler and then pulling it is brilliant. I’ve wasted more peanut butter than I care to admit because it kicked off before I could use it all. Thank you for that.
I built and repaired fiberglass boats over forty years ago and sure wish I had some of that peel and stick material back then! I can still feel the itch! Most of the techniques your using are the same I used back then.
Mr Joe Awesome Awesome video Thanks for your time so excited to what is to come you hit on every point Thanks Fish bump family sharing such great information I have several vintage runabout boats that needs complete restoration so everything helps improve my fiberglassing work moving forward!!!
I'm going to be building an offshore bracket on a bayliner 2302. Splitting the boat for a fuel tank replacement (1990) plan to extend the stringers through the transom and build as a narrow hull extension while in there. Bracket will be for twin four strokes and added floatation for the extra weight. Would love to see you do something like that! Great show thanks!
Wow, that sounds like an interesting project! We always go extra heavy duty on anything like that. It's always better to overbuild than underbuild, especially something structural like transoms and engine brackets. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Joe great content! It's getting cold up here where l live so most of what l will be doing will have to wait till spring giving me plenty of time to watch more videos and make plans on how my repairs will be addressed. Thanks!🤔
My pleasure! Sorry the video was a little later than usual. It turned out to be quite long, and it is filmed in 4k, so the upload took longer than expected. Thanks so much for your support of the channel!
@@FishBumpTV please no apologies necessary, we all as viewers just really appreciate you guys taking the time to share your knowledge and time you deserve so much more for what you do👍🇦🇺
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. These kind of jobs are upcoming on my boat and now I feel confident to do it myself instead of using contractors in my club
Glad the videos are helpful! Just remember to do your research, and use professional help if you feel like it is a critical repair. Thanks for watching!
Just ran across your channel and love it! Getting ready to start a 12’ Carolina skiff project that has a relatively large crack/hole in the front hull and foam was full of water. Already cut out floor and removed foam. Getting ready to start crack repair in hull. Thank you for your detailed videos, your awesome presentation of the products and most of all the authenticity in you. I will be watching many more videos! Cheers!
G,day Captain Joe and Logan from Sydney Australia. I did my first fibreglass matting repair today. Not as easy as I expected. I cut the two types of mat, sanded and acetone cleaned the surface. Added the MPNK 25cc to the resin and mixed. On a plastic tray the fibreglass mat clumped together when trying to pick it up soaking with gloved hands. But .. it formed to the square end and with the confidence of your teaching is going to look like new when painted. 🍯🇦🇺
Even though i have watched many of your videos, I'm sure glad i came across this one. After gutting out my transom and using Carbon Core to fill it. I was going to put a couple layers of glass on the back side of it. I was going to use polyester resin but now with your get explanation of vinylester resin, i feel i would if made a mistake. Again, thanks for the long informative videos. Appreciate it.
I'm glad the videos are helpful! It's kind of a good, better, best thing. It's not that polyester is bad, but the vinyl ester is definitely better, in my opinion. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is fantastic and timely as I have a bunch of holes to fill on my 39 year old 32 Bayliner. I removed the fresh water tank, hot water tank and holding tank. I cut out the shelf holding these and I have un gelcoated glass that still has some tack to it which is the inside of the hull. Apparently it is plenty strong as there are a few tiny gelcoat cracks on the outside, no blisters and it hasn't sunk..lol I want to clean this this up and gelcoat it. Sand, acetone and gelcoat you think? Same under the water tank shelf and really any un gelcoated areas I came across. Still loving your content. Thanks again! Depressed Western Lake Erie boater waiting for snow!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the channel! Yes, it sounds like gelcoat could work fine in that application. I will be applying gelcoat alot in our upcoming project boat series, so stay tuned!
Another well done video! I am always impressed when you're adding catalyst or hardener without measuring -- years of experience makes a world of difference. I'm far too timid to try it, so it's always measuring and a mixing cup for me.
Hello Captain Joe, I'm working on building out a campervan and I'm at the point of creating a custom shower pan. I watched (and liked) most of your amazing videos, but it's hard to put all the knowledge together and start going. So I'm hoping you would consider doing a video on the channel on how to create a shower pan, starting from a plywood base (40 inches by 24 inches, with about 6 inches ridges). Ideally, with two drains on opposite corners and on one of the short edges, a way to fasten the composting toilet. The toilet has two screw holes on the base sides, so some kind of metal bars or fiberglass fixation should come from one of the short edges to screw into the sides of the toilet to fasten it in the shower pan. I would like to build it with fiberglass to have the structural strength, very necessary in a van that is always moving and shaking around. I would try to do it myself, but I get confused about some things like: How to get the fiberglass sticking to the plywood? What kind of resin to use? How many and what type of fiberglass layers do I need? How do you get the gelcoat to stick to the fiberglass? You explained these things several times throughout many videos, but as I said, it gets confusing to start my project with all this information. I'm pretty sure that a lot of van builders would be interested in this video, as no real hands-on tutorials are available at the moment that puts it all together. Many thanks in advance. Keep the videos coming!
I know that quite a few people watching the channel are working on RV or camper type projects, so I think what you want is completely doable, but will take some skill. Maybe you have a friend with some carpentry or auto body experience that could help you. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I think you should start with simple steps in learning to build corners then your drains using different materials to become more familiar with the skill set and experience with what you eventually want to accomplish. This is not a one video watch and then attempt to build an ocean liner or a functional aircraft. I’ve been making plastic aircraft for twenty years and I’m learning slowly how to make these large parts and repairs using the wet method. The way I built the V-22,B-2,C-17,large panels for the 747 was the dry method vacuum bagging the layups and autoclave curing. Which is so much less confusing. So you and I are learning from Joe together. Just take small steps and gain knowledge and confidence. Enjoy the journey!
I like the paint pan/ layer cake technique. I just spent hours doing the same with a cheap paint brush today. I lost a lot of resin due to constant drip.
I built and repaired fiberglass boats over forty years ago and sure wish I had some of that peel and stick material back then! I can still feel the itch! Most of the techniques your using are the same I used back then. One of the products we used back then was asbestos fibers to make bedding putty, hope things have changed in that department!
You are without a doubt the best source for correct information and great advice for boat repair work I’ve found. You are greatly appreciated. Are you involved with Patreon? And do you have any Tshirts or merch for sale? Would love to support your channel
Wow, thank you so much! Yes, I do have a patreon account, but I use it mostly for consulting work with our viewers. Because of my busy schedule, I have limited spaces available, but I plan to open up more spaces soon. We are also in the process of getting some merch available for fans of the channel. So please stay tuned!
Would like to see a below water line hole repair. I have looked through your videos but have not seen one. If you have one please show a link. I love watching you work, very informative thanks for the content.
Great stuff - this is going to help me so much with the fibreglass repairs to my RIB. I am going to have to put some pigment in the gelcoat though because my RIB is orange.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the videos! To get a orange gelcoat using pigments you will need to use a neutral gelcoat base, or if you can find a paint code from Sherwin Williams that is very close to your color that you need you can reach out to Fiberglass warehouse for a custom mix. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Love your videos. I am definitely learning alot, but im struggling to combine your fiberglass, and gelcoat videos to try and figure out how to build a new 49" by 32" floor hatch. Anyway you could make a video on that?
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Maybe if you go back into some of our boatbuilding videos of our 29 footer or our how to fiberglass over plywood or epoxy over plywood content you can get a better understanding of things. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! 53 ft is the largest boat, and we also built quite a few 37s and 31s. I am in the process of gathering up some photos, so I can make a video showing some of the boats we have built and our shops' history.
Joe, Great channel. Both interesting and informative.. Thanks for your help. Where would be a good source for 304 stainless steel connectors bolts 6m flat hex head and matching barrel nuts.
Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! That's a good question. I buy all of my stainless fasteners from our local marine hardware store, it's called Boat owners warehouse. Maybe someone out there watching and reading the comments has a good online source they can suggest. Wish I had more for you on that one. Thanks for watching!
Super good advice, Capt. Joe. You got me re-thinking the use of West Systems epoxy with Total Fair, epoxy sealer on top, the wax free gel coat, and top waxed gel coat. I may experiment with vinyl-ester repairs using 1708 cloth with un waxed gel coat directly. Assuming the vinyl ester will prevent osmosis? I never saw you use an epoxy osmosis preventer barrier coat. Please, keep the great vids coming, much appreciated. Cheers SM
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Epoxy based products are great for many applications, but there can be pros and cons for every product. In the end, everyone should do their research and use the materials that they feel best suits their needs.
Joe, I find your videos extremely helpful for me being a DIYer. I’m presently doing a complete retrofit on a Mainship Mediterranean 35 and would like to add glass panels on the haul on each side of the V berth. I’ve done some research and cannot find anything useful. In your opinion, is this something that is feasible. Thanks
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I have seen yachts with that feature or look to them, and quite honestly I am not a fan. I see a lot of potential problems and danger as far as seaworthyness is concerned. It might look cool, but I would never own a boat like that, just my opinion, of course! I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Great video Joe! I am 23 and living in the gulf coast as well and have loved watching your channel the last couple months. I have a hand sized hole in the hull of my 1982 14' McKee (deep enough to reach the foam) and I am wondering if you have advice or a video for how to do a hole repair like this if unable to access from both sides? Also, after watching your videos, I am torn between using an epoxy resin with sb-112 then putting the gel coat over or using a vinyl ester or polyester resin since it seems to work better with gel coat. My concern has to do with possible moisture absorbed by the foam and want the best chances of a getting it to cure. I have done my best to let it dry out but will be leaving for the military soon. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Very cool! I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! For any kind of structural, below the waterline repair, I would feel comfortable with epoxy or vinyl ester. Either of those resins will give better performance than polyester in that application, in my opinion. I don't currently have any videos with that kind of repair work being shown, but I have made many repairs similar to what you are describing. I wouldn't ever want to discourage anyone, but I always tell folks that if your repair is in a critical location, highly structural, or below the waterline, you may want to have a experienced professional do the job, or have them consult with you directly. Safety is always a concern, especially with below the waterline repairs. I will be opening up some patreon spaces very soon if you are interested. This would allow me to consult with you more directly and help you decide what is the best solution to getting your boat repaired in the best way possible. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Hey mate, thanks for your demo, I learn a lot. I just ask you what machine are you using to spray a large project , like boats and swimming pools. I want to ask you what is the right machine and spray gun to use to spray flow coat to a swimming pool cause I am doing pool resurfacing using fibreglass. Thanks. Daniel
Thanks for watching Daniel! I use a CA Technologies 5 gallon pressure pot, with a Binks 2001 GW external mix spray gun for large gelcoat jobs. I believe you can see that rig in our 29 ft center console boat building series. There is also a company that makes a 1 qt gravity feed spray rig called The Gelcoater. I will be doing a test and review video on the gelcoater soon, and I might show a little about the 5 gallon external mix rig as well. If you call the folks at The Gelcoater, be sure to tell them that you heard about them here on our channel. I hope this helps and I wish you all the best with your future projects!
Great vids again, I am guessing that brushing a new gel coat over the graphite powder is not recommended. What would you use to circle lows and clean powder so it won't be removed? Common sense tells me to clean one at the time circle with pencil and move to another...
Yes, a pencil can work great for marking the lows. I usually sand the lows with an aggressive grit sandpaper, and you can see where the lows are that way. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
I had to repair a fiberglass kevlar sea kayak that had been bent completely in half. It had been hauled back onto the dock it had blown off of without the water first being drained from the cockpit. Huge holes. A friend listed it for sale, I scooped it up. When I saw it, he started lowering the price. I wouldn't let him. It was fixable. I watched a few videos, I'd made two wooden sea kayaks before so I had some epoxy glassing skills. I assumed I'd have to match the kevlar glass layers weights.... Nope not at all. The next step was to grind the sides of the holes so they tapered in. Then trace the outline of the outside of the taper and then cut 6 to 8 fiberglass layers each a bit smaller than the one it was on top of. So I traced the outline, scanned it then in Illustrator made the smaller outlines. (This was over doing it, close with a pencil would've been more than good enough.) The smaller patches go on the outside, so when you sand if you reach any fabric you're sanding the outside fringe, not inside the patch which would weaken it.) This turned out to be not a pretty patch, but a good emergency patch. All the TH-cam fiberglassing seems to go one layer at a time.I don't understand this in this sort of use. Also gussets, just keep adding another layer while it's all still wet. \ My problem was How would I align each of these odd shaped pieces? By doing them all at once solves this problem and things go much faster. I just stacked my layers on saranwrap, saturated them all with epoxy, put epoxy on the taper and then just applied the patch. All those layers gave it a lot of stiffness. One hole was about a foot across and the hull of course was curved. It didn't perfectly match the curves of the hull, but close enough. At this point when the epoxy set, that hole was waterproof and as tough as the rest of the kayak. Next I added a fairing layer, sanded it. Could've done another layer... Gel coat. Instead I paddled it for four years - no problem. Clearly no to Fish Bump TV quality, but watertight, durable and seaworthy. It's still seaworthy, still ugly. One thing was super neat. So long as I supported the kayak close to the holes, the hull just went right to its factory shape, so there was no issue with a bent boat. If there's a takeaway it's 1. Everybody with a boat should learn how to make an emergency patch. (I've heard of kayaks getting holed and a half hour later (with fast epoxy) being back in operation. Even with experience that first hole was a challenge. Now I think I could patch just about anything. 2. The mulitple layers being saturated all at once makes for a stiffer patch that can cover a pretty big hole. And you have a few mixes, no worries about blush, and it's done. And of course Fish Bump way is no doubt better
Hi Captain Joe! I am not sure if you know about this and I have asked you about this product before. But when it comes to "RED MEKP" I found something that you might want to tell your subscribers about. I have found that Fiberglass warehouse is handling the RED catalyst in a 2oz bottle for $4.99 Part # 0812R which is all I want to buy at one time! When chatting with customer service to ask if it was actually red and they said yes and also said if Captain Joe was using it they needed to be able to sale it! LOL you have a good influence on people! We love you JOE!
Hi there, I’ve been loving the content. When you say that you licensed with the coastguard to build boats, what did you go through to get that license? Thanks
Hi from Norway! Again, your videos are so great and with so much explanation. But here for the filling of the speaker holes, I missed that part before the mats. Is that just filling with fiber reinforced vinylester, longer strands? Did you Joe fill that large hole with the roller?
Thanks so much, I'm glad that you are enjoying the videos! I try to show or explain everything that I think is important, but it's possible I missed something or that it's explained in the previous episode. I hope this helps, and appreciate you watching all of the way from Beautiful Norway 🇳🇴!
Hey Joe, great video content as always! Question now that’s its starting to cool off here in Pa is it ok to work with resin and gel coat on warmer afternoons but now it’s getting chilly at night then warms up again the next day? Say 70 degrees then down to 50s at night then back up to 70s or high 60s next day? Thanks again for all you do!
Yes, you should still be good in the 60s and 70s. You can keep your materials out of the cold nights, so the resin temps stay more consistent. You can also use a heat gun with care to help warm the surface area to be worked. Your also will use a little higher percentage of catalyst to be sure your resin cures properly. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
hola. una pregunta, he visto que en algunas embarcaciones deportivas usan una especie de rollo o tela de espuma poliuretana y fibra de carbono. asi logrando algo más liviana y resistente. mi duda es, tú sabes cómo se llama ese rollo en espuma? muy bueno todos tus videos me ayudan mucho a resolver problemas y entender mucho más sobre este trabajo. saludos
You might be seeing a scored pvc foam. Divinycell is one company that makes a product like that. Fiberglass warehouse should have what you are looking for. I have a hardtop mold building series here on the channel, and we use a 3/4 thick airex foam core and vinyl ester resin with 1708 biaxial Fiberglass to get a very strong and lightweight top. That series of videos might help answer a lot of questions.hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Really enjoy your videos. I have a tuna boat that just has painted fiberglass woven material below decks. Could I gel coat two or three coats to make the woven more attractive? This area has a v berth below deck and would like to spruce it up. Any problems with my idea? Thanks
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the channel! Yes, I would imagine that 2 or 3 coats of gelcoat would help improve the look quite a bit over just raw fiberglass. You would just want to follow the basics of gelcoat that I show in some of our videos. A good clean surface that has been sanded a bit, and temps in the 60 to 80 degree range are a good starting point. I hope this helps and I wish you the best with your Tuna boat!
You know it would be really awesome? A video on how to strip gelcoat off of fiberglass without having to burn through flapper discs or spend thousands of dollars on a gelpeel or marine shaver… there has to be a better way, like a regular electric planer or something of the like- there’s barely any material on TH-cam covering this 👍🏻
Hey wanted to say that I’m digging the DIY format , myself I have bought a 1983 16’ champion bass boat , as u know it’s beat up pretty good installing new floor gonna have to replace transoms . And just so u know the person I bought it from didn’t want the original color which was black flake w/electric blue flake pin stripes, now it’s freaking solid white . My question is this how to remove white gel back to original color scheme? Can I sand it off or sandblast with walnut hull?
Glad you are enjoying the channel! There is not really an easy way to remove gelcoat that has been applied to a hull. Sanding it is possible, but it would be very labor intensive. It might be easier to prep and paint over the white, than to remove it. I wish I had more for you on that one.
Great suggestion! We will be doing a deck replacement on our project boat. I will try to do something touching on soft spots in the floor when I get a chance. Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to let you know that was another awesome video you ROCK! I have tried to get on Patreon and can't get a spot. I would like to ask about the vinyl ester. I live in Asheville NC and it is already getting cold. My question is if I start doing some vinyl ester hole repair and I start it when the temp gets over 65 and gets up to maybe a little over 70 can you tell me how long the temp needs to be over 65 degrees to get me to the point that the cold won't hurt the repair. Please help! Thanks for all the awesome videos this one today is about exactly what I am wanting to do in next couple weeks.
Awesome, thanks! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos so much. 65 to 85 degrees is kind of the sweet spot for many resins, but 60 degrees and up can still work. You may just have to employ a few different techniques. Obviously, adding more catalyst is something you can do, as long as you are within the 1 to 2 percent range. Also, sunlight can greatly increase the cure rate of most resins. You can also be sure to keep your resins warm overnight, so they are up to temp when you are ready to work. If you can use some of these tips you can usually get your resin to harden in a hr or less. But even it takes 2 or more hrs to cure you should still be OK. Now that my charter season is slowing down I will probably be opening up more patreon spots to be able to do more direct consulting work. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, it is pretty common to fiberglass over wood. You want to use a wood that accepts resin well like marine fir plywood. And a quality resin like vinyl ester or epoxy for the best results. You should definitely do plenty of research and practice and experiment with the materials before taking on a large project. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV ty for the information and advice the foam board that you use for the canopy for your 2900 is that good to use inside the hull for structure work
@vincentpereira8416 I like something even stronger and denser for internal structural work personally. I used coosa board in the 26 pound density when I built our 29 ft center console that you see in the background of our videos. I have a whole series of videos here on the channel documenting the build of the 29. They might be interesting and helpful. Thanks for watching!
I have a 16' fiberglass fishing boat which is a modified tri-haul. It has a damaged area on the keel and some other areas which I am concerned about. Do you have any recommended suggestions, or would you prefer pictures in addition before you give advise.
Theoretically, yes. You could make a mold from another boat or canoe. But some molds have to be built as a 2 piece unit because of the shapes involved. I am quite sure that a canoe mold would have to be built as a 2 piece, with a seam down the middle.That might be the only way the mold could release from the pattern. It would be much more complex to build than the hard top mold. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
I've got a project similar to this coming up. I have vents on the deck of my boat that I want to move to a different spot. It involves cutting a hole where the vent will go, and glassing over the old hole. But I will have a circle of glass exactly the right size to fill the old hole that came from where I cut the new hole. I was thinking of taping it to the deck and glassing from beneath, then filling any gaps with thinkend resin. Is that a good idea, or should I just throw away the circle of glass that I cut out of the deck for the new hole, and do it the way you have done it here? I will have to make it strong enough to walk on.
It could be done either way. I would probably lean towards using the cutout that you have and glassing it in on both sides if possible. I only glassed one side on the console because it is a non loaded and non structural application. It's always best to go heavy duty on something you are walking on. Thanks for watching
Hi Joe. Great channel. I have a Ranger Bass Boat that I had someone re-gel coat it a while back and the front “V” sections have some serious spider web cracks in them. I’m wanting to repair them, but most if not all of your content explains how to repair a colored gel coat. With mine being a clear coat I’m not sure just how to go about removing those cracks, filling them in and then replacing the clear gel coat and then blocking and water sanding/ buffing it out to a glossy finish. Is there a way I can contact you more directly to get help with this issue?
Yes, possibly. It would depend somewhat on what caused the cracks in the first place. I have a stress crack video coming very soon, so stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
This man deserves full sponsorship from the brands he uses. Not only is he a true professional, but the results of his hard work are always right there to back it up. Honestly, watching him almost makes me want to get back into restoration myself. For the new DIY'ers out there, you don’t realize how helpful Joe’s content is. Back in 2007, when I restored my boat, none of this was available on TH-cam. Keep rocking, Joe! I’d love to meet you one day-just to shake your hand. You're such a humble and genuine person. Thank you, sir!
Amen 🙏🏻. @festoolusa sponsor this man bigtime, he and his family deserve it
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate your comment and your support of the channel!
Man needs a brand of merchandise and his own book.
Totally agree
@@FishBumpTV you earned it Joe, keep up the amazing work.
Joe you are simply the best fiberglassing teacher anywhere. You take away that over informed paralysis you mentioned. Because we only need your teachings to tackle any repair job with confidence.
Wow, thanks so much! Super nice comment!
Hands off to your tutorial! The level of detail and practical tips you’ve included are in a completely different league compared to anything else I’ve seen. You didn’t just skim the surface; you really broke down each step in a way that’s easy to follow but still packed with depth -thank you!
Wow, thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the channel, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Great. Very good teacher and demonstrator of how it should be done with techniques that were learned through experience. No school can teach that. Thanks for putting up these videos
Wow, thanks! I'm glad that you are enjoying the videos here on the channel!
Been a Marine tech for 37 years really enjoyed your videos
He is the greatest for sure.
Thanks!!
THANK U.I AM NOW 85 WHY I WRITE IT IS NOT WHAT I THOUGHT TO BE DOING. THANKS TO YOU AND YOURS , I'AM HAVING FUN.
That's fantastic! I'm glad you are enjoying working with fiberglass! Thanks for watching and commenting
Wirklich lieb , wie Joe auch seinen Vater so positiv in Erinnerung bringt . Einfach nur klasse Erklärungen . Extrem hilfreich und sehr gut zu verstehen . DANKE 👍👍👍
Thank you! He was a great Dad, and I wish he was still with us. I think he would have loved the channel and really enjoyed seeing the positive effect his work has had on so many people!
I love the way you explain and teach. You make it look uncomplicated and easy - I know looks are deceiving 😂. I definitely appreciate your knowledge and experience.
Wow, thanks so much! I hope the videos inspire people to give gelcoat and fiberglass work a try. Just remember to do plenty of research, start with something small and non critical, and plan out everything you will need. I hope this helps and I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thank you for these informative videos. I'm 87 years old and have enjoyed many different hobbies in those years. I started by painting a car with. what ever paint they had at the hardware store and a "bug-a-boo" hand pump sprayer. I filled the molding holes to "customize" a car using "liquid soldier". Didn't have "body fillers " yet. I've built two boats (under 16 feet) that I fiberglassed. I repaired a couple of boats that got bounced off the rocks. In the '60's I learned about acrylic enamel paint and painted every car that friends would let me. Now thanks to TH-cam and people like you I am learning about a world of new products. Again, thank you
Welcome to the channel, and thanks for sharing your experiences with us! I feel honored to have a person such as yourself, watch our videos, and respond with such a nice comment! Happy to share what my father taught me and what I have learned since he passed away over 30 years ago with you all. I wish you many more years and much success with any fiberglass related projects that you might choose to take on!
You are correct in saying the trades are going extinct. The younger generations need to get involved in skills like you’re demonstrating. Thx!
Yep, it's sad to see! Maybe sharing our families' experience and skills here on the channel will help keep some of this knowledge alive. Thanks for watching and commenting!
As a DIYer starting my own skiff build/refurb, these videos have been filled with so much information and detail. Normally I'd struggle to watch a 20 min video on TH-cam, but your videos are so damn captivating and educational I cant help but to watch every minute of your videos. You make it seem so easy. You def put out 9 generations of information in each video.
Just one request. Can you show how you'd repair a crack/hole in a keel?
Please keep the videos coming. My skiff depends on it.
Wow, thanks! What a nice comment! I will try to do a video on that the next opportunity I get. I appreciate you watching and wish you the best with your project!
I am 90% complete with a 4ftx2ft hole in my boat. Following many of your videos and the steps in this one have proven the education worked. Thank YOU! Never too much detail and your content is on point. I'll be gel coating this weekend in the hopes to start the finish sanding process soon! My beginner tips for anyone else trying this.... 1. I went through 3x as many gloves as I thought I would 2. The initial wetting out of the repair area @23:36 and the back side of the glass to lay down proved critical in getting air bubbles out early. I kept starving my fiberglass at first with not wetting out enough 3. When sanding fiberglass tape the suit sleeves to your gloves with a bit of painters tape, not doing this I was surprised how itchy my forearms were even with gloves and a suit on.
Wow, thanks for sharing your experiences with everyone!
It's nice to see someone as passionate about what they do as you are. It is obvious that you love to work with composites and teach others your skills. I, for one, really appreciate your effort and dedication to providing useful content and imparting your knowledge to us. Thanks Logan, great job behind the camera.
Wow, thanks so much! What a nice comment! I will be sure to tell Logan that you said he is doing a good job.
HAY SHOUT OUT TO FISHBUMP FOR THE CHANNEL. I recently bought a 1976 bayliner nisqually with the flying bridge. I have had to remove all old stringers due to rot and will be replacing them and a complet rebuild on this boat. I completely appreciate the FISHBUMP CHAMMEL you have given me insight on what to use and how to get a good prepped surface for rework. I have never done any fiberglass work but am all forward on this project. And am a pretty handy kinda guy so with your help I know I will end up with a very good strong product. Thank your family
Fantastic, welcome to the channel! Sounds like a great project boat, and I wish you all the best. We will be starting the process of replacing the transom, stringers, and floor soon on our project boat. There should be lots of useful info in this series to help give you a clear picture of what to expect along the way. Thanks for watching!
This is my "going to TH-cam university". I am so glad to find professionals like them, going out of their way to spread the knowledge for I assume not too much compensation at all. Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany!
Wow, thank you! I appreciate you watching all of the way from Germany 🇩🇪!
Another great one ! Work for flagpole light pole company in New Hampshire and have taken over mold repairs and building new ones that we use to cast are products. I can't believe how much your content has helped me get started in what is my new trade.
That's fantastic! Glad the videos are helpful!
This makes me want to redo my 2003 key west console. It doesn’t need it but your videos definitely make it easy to understand and make it easier for us diy people. Keep doing what you do.
Fantastic, I'm glad you are enjoying our videos and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
What a great video, and you are a great teacher. Originally, I started watching with no intention of watching a whole hour, but the info and your presentation made me want to watch every minute. Im now subscribed and will be going back through your other videos. Thanks.
Thanks so much, and welcome to the channel!
Your attention to detail and clear explanations are greatly appreciated! Already anxiously awaiting the next video in this series!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks a lot, Jonas here from Portugal, your videos have been helping a lot, just bought a old Four Winns (91) and i'm bringing it to modern times, so redoing all the interior including the layout itself, so a bit of woodwork was needed to do the new layout and finished of with fiberglass over, soo your knowledge as been really really helpful.
Now covering all the aesthetic part soo this video did really help, thanks a lot and please keep realising videos, as a young man (26) working in this industry sometimes it's not too easy to find the right tools and techniques, also sadly despite our sailor heritage as a country today we don't have a boat culture among middle class, soo again, thanks for all the help, not only for the technical part but seeing someone doing this with such pride and care motivates a lot to do things in a proper way.
Sounds like you have a great project boat! Glad you are enjoying the videos and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Portugal 🇵🇹!
Hi Captain Joe!
I don't know how many times I can say this but I learn something new from every video you post! Thank you so much! I hadn't ever thought to layer up the 3 layer fiberglass patch in the tray and then apply it. Nice! Oh, and don't worry about the video length! I love the format!
Thanks again and all the best from California!🧡
That's awesome! I am glad that you learn something new with each episode. Appreciate you watching from Sunny California!
I love watching your videos. A lot of information, and attention to detail.
Glad you like them! Thanks so much for watching!
Thank you very much. I really appreciate you taking the time to help all of us. You have a great way of teaching. Please keep it up.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Strong knowledge level. If you are new to glassing, watch his vids do it right and you will do it once. I knows what i see, my Dad was an industrial pipe-fitter.
Wow, thanks! I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Glad to see a new video. Thanks for your excellent lessons about fiberglass.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Another fantastic video, Joe. Much appreciated!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Joe you are a great teacher
Thank you so much, glad you think so!
Been messing with glass since I was a teenager. Your videos are a welcome addition to anyone wanting to understand the processes to properly do glasswork.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel, and thanks for watching!
Camera work is awesome on all of your videos!!! Rebuilding my Mako 17 and have learned so much! Thank you and your son for sharing your time and knowledge with all of us DIY’ers! God bless! Frank Amelia Island FL
Awesome! Thank you! I will be sure to tell my Son that you appreciate his camera work, and I wish you all the best with your Mako rebuild!
Thank you for ALL the details.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video Captain Joe! Keep up the good work! All the best. Chuck
Thanks Chuck! I appreciate you watching!
This is my go to channel to learn how to rebuild my 13ft fiberglass skiff. Excited to see how you do the floors and everything that will go under them. I am currently stuck trying to figure out the best place for a battery and wiring chase under the deck.
Awesome, thank you! Hopefully, our project boat videos will give you some inspiration for your project boat.
Awesome video as always. Checking in from Semmes. Great job captain and Logan!
Awesome! Thank you!
I'm helping a 14yo restore a small fibreglass boat as a school project. We live in Bermuda where boats are a must. He's getting a 15hp Johnson.
That's fantastic! My first boat was a skiff my father built for me with a 20 hp tiller steer, pull crank Johnson. I had an absolute blast in that little skiff! Thanks for watching all of the way from Beautiful Bermuda 🇧🇲!
keep doing you bro , i recently found you and you have already helped me in 5 different videos about fiberglassing thank you !
Thanks, will do! Welcome to the channel, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Really great content. I'm actually building an experimental composite aircraft and utilizing the skills brought out in your videos. Thanks!!
Wow, that sounds exciting! Thanks for watching!
Great work. Professional explains the steps to get a job well done.
Thank you very much!
Keep these videos coming! I just came in from working on my boat for a few hours doing almost the same thing you are. For the people out there just remember if you mess up you can simply sand it down, it’s that easy. Love you videos Captain!
Thanks, I appreciate you watching and sharing your experiences!
@@FishBumpTV oh and btw mixing your filler and then pulling it is brilliant. I’ve wasted more peanut butter than I care to admit because it kicked off before I could use it all.
Thank you for that.
I built and repaired fiberglass boats over forty years ago and sure wish I had some of that peel and stick material back then! I can still feel the itch! Most of the techniques your using are the same I used back then.
Very cool. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the great content once again Captain Joe. Appreciate the channel and the no nonsense videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Mr Joe Awesome Awesome video Thanks for your time so excited to what is to come you hit on every point Thanks Fish bump family sharing such great information I have several vintage runabout boats that needs complete restoration so everything helps improve my fiberglassing work moving forward!!!
Wow, thanks so much! Glad the videos are going to be helpful with your resto projects!
I'm going to be building an offshore bracket on a bayliner 2302. Splitting the boat for a fuel tank replacement (1990) plan to extend the stringers through the transom and build as a narrow hull extension while in there. Bracket will be for twin four strokes and added floatation for the extra weight. Would love to see you do something like that! Great show thanks!
Wow, that sounds like an interesting project! We always go extra heavy duty on anything like that. It's always better to overbuild than underbuild, especially something structural like transoms and engine brackets. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Joe great content! It's getting cold up here where l live so most of what l will be doing will have to wait till spring giving me plenty of time to watch more videos and make plans on how my repairs will be addressed. Thanks!🤔
Sounds great! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Absolutely awesome episode, thanks so much for your time Captain Joe and the team. My Fishbump addiction is fulfilled again 👍🇦🇺
My pleasure! Sorry the video was a little later than usual. It turned out to be quite long, and it is filmed in 4k, so the upload took longer than expected. Thanks so much for your support of the channel!
@@FishBumpTV please no apologies necessary, we all as viewers just really appreciate you guys taking the time to share your knowledge and time you deserve so much more for what you do👍🇦🇺
Another great video Joe, patiently waiting for the stress crack video 😅
Thanks! Stress crack video should be out later today. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. These kind of jobs are upcoming on my boat and now I feel confident to do it myself instead of using contractors in my club
Glad the videos are helpful! Just remember to do your research, and use professional help if you feel like it is a critical repair. Thanks for watching!
Wonderful video! I always learn your videos - Your mannerism is truly charming.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your comment!
An absolute fantastic channel. Thanks a ton. Cheers.
Thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Great explanation. Thanks for the details and tips.
Glad it was helpful, and I appreciate you watching!
Just ran across your channel and love it! Getting ready to start a 12’ Carolina skiff project that has a relatively large crack/hole in the front hull and foam was full of water. Already cut out floor and removed foam. Getting ready to start crack repair in hull. Thank you for your detailed videos, your awesome presentation of the products and most of all the authenticity in you. I will be watching many more videos! Cheers!
Welcome to the channel! Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences with the channel!
doing a fantastic job mate. thanks for sharing your knowledge
No worries! Thanks for watching!
G,day Captain Joe and Logan from Sydney Australia. I did my first fibreglass matting repair today. Not as easy as I expected. I cut the two types of mat, sanded and acetone cleaned the surface. Added the MPNK 25cc to the resin and mixed. On a plastic tray the fibreglass mat clumped together when trying to pick it up soaking with gloved hands.
But .. it formed to the square end and with the confidence of your teaching is going to look like new when painted.
🍯🇦🇺
Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences all of the way from Australia 🇦🇺!
Another great video Joe. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Even though i have watched many of your videos, I'm sure glad i came across this one. After gutting out my transom and using Carbon Core to fill it. I was going to put a couple layers of glass on the back side of it. I was going to use polyester resin but now with your get explanation of vinylester resin, i feel i would if made a mistake. Again, thanks for the long informative videos. Appreciate it.
I'm glad the videos are helpful! It's kind of a good, better, best thing. It's not that polyester is bad, but the vinyl ester is definitely better, in my opinion. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Another great video! Hurry and get it done I know you'll need someone to test it out.lol
Hahaha, yes Sir! Thanks for watching!
Yet Another super informative episode Joe, really great info and usefull pro-tips. Keep em coming please! The longer the better 🙂
Thanks! Will do!
This is fantastic and timely as I have a bunch of holes to fill on my 39 year old 32 Bayliner.
I removed the fresh water tank, hot water tank and holding tank. I cut out the shelf holding these and I have un gelcoated glass that still has some tack to it which is the inside of the hull. Apparently it is plenty strong as there are a few tiny gelcoat cracks on the outside, no blisters and it hasn't sunk..lol I want to clean this this up and gelcoat it. Sand, acetone and gelcoat you think? Same under the water tank shelf and really any un gelcoated areas I came across.
Still loving your content. Thanks again!
Depressed Western Lake Erie boater waiting for snow!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the channel! Yes, it sounds like gelcoat could work fine in that application. I will be applying gelcoat alot in our upcoming project boat series, so stay tuned!
Great video captain Joe ! ❤
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another well done video! I am always impressed when you're adding catalyst or hardener without measuring -- years of experience makes a world of difference. I'm far too timid to try it, so it's always measuring and a mixing cup for me.
Thank you! Yep, been doing it a very long time. It's always a good idea to be careful and accurate. I wish you all the best with your future projects!
Hello Captain Joe,
I'm working on building out a campervan and I'm at the point of creating a custom shower pan. I watched (and liked) most of your amazing videos, but it's hard to put all the knowledge together and start going. So I'm hoping you would consider doing a video on the channel on how to create a shower pan, starting from a plywood base (40 inches by 24 inches, with about 6 inches ridges). Ideally, with two drains on opposite corners and on one of the short edges, a way to fasten the composting toilet. The toilet has two screw holes on the base sides, so some kind of metal bars or fiberglass fixation should come from one of the short edges to screw into the sides of the toilet to fasten it in the shower pan. I would like to build it with fiberglass to have the structural strength, very necessary in a van that is always moving and shaking around.
I would try to do it myself, but I get confused about some things like:
How to get the fiberglass sticking to the plywood?
What kind of resin to use?
How many and what type of fiberglass layers do I need?
How do you get the gelcoat to stick to the fiberglass?
You explained these things several times throughout many videos, but as I said, it gets confusing to start my project with all this information. I'm pretty sure that a lot of van builders would be interested in this video, as no real hands-on tutorials are available at the moment that puts it all together.
Many thanks in advance. Keep the videos coming!
I know that quite a few people watching the channel are working on RV or camper type projects, so I think what you want is completely doable, but will take some skill. Maybe you have a friend with some carpentry or auto body experience that could help you. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I think you should start with simple steps in learning to build corners then your drains using different materials to become more familiar with the skill set and experience with what you eventually want to accomplish. This is not a one video watch and then attempt to build an ocean liner or a functional aircraft. I’ve been making plastic aircraft for twenty years and I’m learning slowly how to make these large parts and repairs using the wet method.
The way I built the V-22,B-2,C-17,large panels for the 747 was the dry method vacuum bagging the layups and autoclave curing. Which is so much less confusing.
So you and I are learning from Joe together. Just take small steps and gain knowledge and confidence. Enjoy the journey!
@rogerpotts8453 Thanks for sharing your experience and for watching!
I like the paint pan/ layer cake technique. I just spent hours doing the same with a cheap paint brush today. I lost a lot of resin due to constant drip.
Glad you like the techniques! A small roller is also a very good addition to your fiberglass repair kit. Thanks for watching!
I built and repaired fiberglass boats over forty years ago and sure wish I had some of that peel and stick material back then! I can still feel the itch! Most of the techniques your using are the same I used back then. One of the products we used back then was asbestos fibers to make bedding putty, hope things have changed in that department!
Interesting! Thanks for sharing your experiences with everyone!
Very detailed
Thanks! Hope you enjoyed it!
You are without a doubt the best source for correct information and great advice for boat repair work I’ve found. You are greatly appreciated. Are you involved with Patreon? And do you have any Tshirts or merch for sale? Would love to support your channel
Wow, thank you so much! Yes, I do have a patreon account, but I use it mostly for consulting work with our viewers. Because of my busy schedule, I have limited spaces available, but I plan to open up more spaces soon. We are also in the process of getting some merch available for fans of the channel. So please stay tuned!
I have some 3/16 glass sheets a boat builder uses for various projects that I used for my larger patch holes, then cabosil putty.
Sure, that could work great. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience with the channel!
Love this video and the channel
Wow, thanks!
16:15 Preach Fr. Joe PREACH.
Yes Sir! Thanks for watching!!
Not long at all. Thank you very very much.
You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video!
thank you
You're welcome! Appreciate you watching
Would like to see a below water line hole repair. I have looked through your videos but have not seen one. If you have one please show a link.
I love watching you work, very informative thanks for the content.
Great suggestion! I don't currently have a below the waterline structural repair, but will try to make one when I get a chance. Thanks for watching!
Great stuff - this is going to help me so much with the fibreglass repairs to my RIB. I am going to have to put some pigment in the gelcoat though because my RIB is orange.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the videos! To get a orange gelcoat using pigments you will need to use a neutral gelcoat base, or if you can find a paint code from Sherwin Williams that is very close to your color that you need you can reach out to Fiberglass warehouse for a custom mix. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Love your videos. I am definitely learning alot, but im struggling to combine your fiberglass, and gelcoat videos to try and figure out how to build a new 49" by 32" floor hatch. Anyway you could make a video on that?
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Maybe if you go back into some of our boatbuilding videos of our 29 footer or our how to fiberglass over plywood or epoxy over plywood content you can get a better understanding of things. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Like your video, quick question, what was the biggest boat that you and your family ever build?
Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! 53 ft is the largest boat, and we also built quite a few 37s and 31s. I am in the process of gathering up some photos, so I can make a video showing some of the boats we have built and our shops' history.
Joe, Great channel. Both interesting and informative.. Thanks for your help. Where would be a good source for 304 stainless steel connectors bolts 6m flat hex head and matching barrel nuts.
Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! That's a good question. I buy all of my stainless fasteners from our local marine hardware store, it's called Boat owners warehouse. Maybe someone out there watching and reading the comments has a good online source they can suggest. Wish I had more for you on that one. Thanks for watching!
Super good advice, Capt. Joe. You got me re-thinking the use of West Systems epoxy with Total Fair, epoxy sealer on top, the wax free gel coat, and top waxed gel coat. I may experiment with vinyl-ester repairs using 1708 cloth with un waxed gel coat directly. Assuming the vinyl ester will prevent osmosis? I never saw you use an epoxy osmosis preventer barrier coat. Please, keep the great vids coming, much appreciated.
Cheers
SM
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Epoxy based products are great for many applications, but there can be pros and cons for every product. In the end, everyone should do their research and use the materials that they feel best suits their needs.
Very detailed video. what's the procedure if don't have acces to the interior"back"? Thanks for sharing.
Good 👍👌
Thank you!
Joe, I find your videos extremely helpful for me being a DIYer. I’m presently doing a complete retrofit on a Mainship Mediterranean 35 and would like to add glass panels on the haul on each side of the V berth. I’ve done some research and cannot find anything useful. In your opinion, is this something that is feasible. Thanks
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I have seen yachts with that feature or look to them, and quite honestly I am not a fan. I see a lot of potential problems and danger as far as seaworthyness is concerned. It might look cool, but I would never own a boat like that, just my opinion, of course! I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Great video Joe! I am 23 and living in the gulf coast as well and have loved watching your channel the last couple months.
I have a hand sized hole in the hull of my 1982 14' McKee (deep enough to reach the foam) and I am wondering if you have advice or a video for how to do a hole repair like this if unable to access from both sides?
Also, after watching your videos, I am torn between using an epoxy resin with sb-112 then putting the gel coat over or using a vinyl ester or polyester resin since it seems to work better with gel coat. My concern has to do with possible moisture absorbed by the foam and want the best chances of a getting it to cure. I have done my best to let it dry out but will be leaving for the military soon. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Very cool! I'm glad you are enjoying the channel! For any kind of structural, below the waterline repair, I would feel comfortable with epoxy or vinyl ester. Either of those resins will give better performance than polyester in that application, in my opinion. I don't currently have any videos with that kind of repair work being shown, but I have made many repairs similar to what you are describing. I wouldn't ever want to discourage anyone, but I always tell folks that if your repair is in a critical location, highly structural, or below the waterline, you may want to have a experienced professional do the job, or have them consult with you directly. Safety is always a concern, especially with below the waterline repairs. I will be opening up some patreon spaces very soon if you are interested. This would allow me to consult with you more directly and help you decide what is the best solution to getting your boat repaired in the best way possible. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Hey mate, thanks for your demo, I learn a lot. I just ask you what machine are you using to spray a large project , like boats and swimming pools. I want to ask you what is the right machine and spray gun to use to spray flow coat to a swimming pool cause I am doing pool resurfacing using fibreglass. Thanks. Daniel
Thanks for watching Daniel! I use a CA Technologies 5 gallon pressure pot, with a Binks 2001 GW external mix spray gun for large gelcoat jobs. I believe you can see that rig in our 29 ft center console boat building series. There is also a company that makes a 1 qt gravity feed spray rig called The Gelcoater. I will be doing a test and review video on the gelcoater soon, and I might show a little about the 5 gallon external mix rig as well. If you call the folks at The Gelcoater, be sure to tell them that you heard about them here on our channel. I hope this helps and I wish you all the best with your future projects!
@FishBumpTV Thanks Joe.i will be following your channel always.
Great vids again, I am guessing that brushing a new gel coat over the graphite powder is not recommended. What would you use to circle lows and clean powder so it won't be removed? Common sense tells me to clean one at the time circle with pencil and move to another...
Yes, a pencil can work great for marking the lows. I usually sand the lows with an aggressive grit sandpaper, and you can see where the lows are that way. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
LQQKs like some buckshot holes..... lol, nice repair, I do like learning how to do these common things. peace
Haha, yep! We are going to make it look like new again, though! Thanks for watching
I had to repair a fiberglass kevlar sea kayak that had been bent completely in half. It had been hauled back onto the dock it had blown off of without the water first being drained from the cockpit. Huge holes. A friend listed it for sale, I scooped it up. When I saw it, he started lowering the price. I wouldn't let him. It was fixable.
I watched a few videos, I'd made two wooden sea kayaks before so I had some epoxy glassing skills. I assumed I'd have to match the kevlar glass layers weights.... Nope not at all. The next step was to grind the sides of the holes so they tapered in. Then trace the outline of the outside of the taper and then cut 6 to 8 fiberglass layers each a bit smaller than the one it was on top of. So I traced the outline, scanned it then in Illustrator made the smaller outlines. (This was over doing it, close with a pencil would've been more than good enough.) The smaller patches go on the outside, so when you sand if you reach any fabric you're sanding the outside fringe, not inside the patch which would weaken it.)
This turned out to be not a pretty patch, but a good emergency patch. All the TH-cam fiberglassing seems to go one layer at a time.I don't understand this in this sort of use. Also gussets, just keep adding another layer while it's all still wet. \
My problem was How would I align each of these odd shaped pieces? By doing them all at once solves this problem and things go much faster. I just stacked my layers on saranwrap, saturated them all with epoxy, put epoxy on the taper and then just applied the patch. All those layers gave it a lot of stiffness. One hole was about a foot across and the hull of course was curved. It didn't perfectly match the curves of the hull, but close enough. At this point when the epoxy set, that hole was waterproof and as tough as the rest of the kayak. Next I added a fairing layer, sanded it. Could've done another layer... Gel coat. Instead I paddled it for four years - no problem. Clearly no to Fish Bump TV quality, but watertight, durable and seaworthy. It's still seaworthy, still ugly.
One thing was super neat. So long as I supported the kayak close to the holes, the hull just went right to its factory shape, so there was no issue with a bent boat.
If there's a takeaway it's 1. Everybody with a boat should learn how to make an emergency patch. (I've heard of kayaks getting holed and a half hour later (with fast epoxy) being back in operation. Even with experience that first hole was a challenge. Now I think I could patch just about anything. 2. The mulitple layers being saturated all at once makes for a stiffer patch that can cover a pretty big hole. And you have a few mixes, no worries about blush, and it's done.
And of course Fish Bump way is no doubt better
Very cool! Thanks for sharing your experiences with everyone and for watching!
Hi Captain Joe! I am not sure if you know about this and I have asked you about this product before. But when it comes to "RED MEKP" I found something that you might want to tell your subscribers about. I have found that Fiberglass warehouse is handling the RED catalyst in a 2oz bottle for $4.99 Part # 0812R which is all I want to buy at one time! When chatting with customer service to ask if it was actually red and they said yes and also said if Captain Joe was using it they needed to be able to sale it! LOL you have a good influence on people! We love you JOE!
Wow, awesome! Thanks so much!
Hi there, I’ve been loving the content. When you say that you licensed with the coastguard to build boats, what did you go through to get that license? Thanks
Your just great👌🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much 😀
Hi from Norway!
Again, your videos are so great and with so much explanation.
But here for the filling of the speaker holes, I missed that part before the mats.
Is that just filling with fiber reinforced vinylester, longer strands?
Did you Joe fill that large hole with the roller?
Thanks so much, I'm glad that you are enjoying the videos! I try to show or explain everything that I think is important, but it's possible I missed something or that it's explained in the previous episode. I hope this helps, and appreciate you watching all of the way from Beautiful Norway 🇳🇴!
Hey Joe, great video content as always! Question now that’s its starting to cool off here in Pa is it ok to work with resin and gel coat on warmer afternoons but now it’s getting chilly at night then warms up again the next day? Say 70 degrees then down to 50s at night then back up to 70s or high 60s next day? Thanks again for all you do!
Yes, you should still be good in the 60s and 70s. You can keep your materials out of the cold nights, so the resin temps stay more consistent. You can also use a heat gun with care to help warm the surface area to be worked. Your also will use a little higher percentage of catalyst to be sure your resin cures properly. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
hola.
una pregunta, he visto que en algunas embarcaciones deportivas usan una especie de rollo o tela de espuma poliuretana y fibra de carbono. asi logrando algo más liviana y resistente. mi duda es, tú sabes cómo se llama ese rollo en espuma? muy bueno todos tus videos me ayudan mucho a resolver problemas y entender mucho más sobre este trabajo. saludos
You might be seeing a scored pvc foam. Divinycell is one company that makes a product like that. Fiberglass warehouse should have what you are looking for. I have a hardtop mold building series here on the channel, and we use a 3/4 thick airex foam core and vinyl ester resin with 1708 biaxial Fiberglass to get a very strong and lightweight top. That series of videos might help answer a lot of questions.hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Really enjoy your videos. I have a tuna boat that just has painted fiberglass woven material below decks. Could I gel coat two or three coats to make the woven more attractive? This area has a v berth below deck and would like to spruce it up. Any problems with my idea? Thanks
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the channel! Yes, I would imagine that 2 or 3 coats of gelcoat would help improve the look quite a bit over just raw fiberglass. You would just want to follow the basics of gelcoat that I show in some of our videos. A good clean surface that has been sanded a bit, and temps in the 60 to 80 degree range are a good starting point. I hope this helps and I wish you the best with your Tuna boat!
You know it would be really awesome? A video on how to strip gelcoat off of fiberglass without having to burn through flapper discs or spend thousands of dollars on a gelpeel or marine shaver… there has to be a better way, like a regular electric planer or something of the like- there’s barely any material on TH-cam covering this 👍🏻
Hey wanted to say that I’m digging the DIY format , myself I have bought a 1983 16’ champion bass boat , as u know it’s beat up pretty good installing new floor gonna have to replace transoms . And just so u know the person I bought it from didn’t want the original color which was black flake w/electric blue flake pin stripes, now it’s freaking solid white . My question is this how to remove white gel back to original color scheme? Can I sand it off or sandblast with walnut hull?
Glad you are enjoying the channel! There is not really an easy way to remove gelcoat that has been applied to a hull. Sanding it is possible, but it would be very labor intensive. It might be easier to prep and paint over the white, than to remove it. I wish I had more for you on that one.
Wish you had a video on repairing a soft spot on the deck
Great suggestion! We will be doing a deck replacement on our project boat. I will try to do something touching on soft spots in the floor when I get a chance. Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to let you know that was another awesome video you ROCK! I have tried to get on Patreon and can't get a spot. I would like to ask about the vinyl ester. I live in Asheville NC and it is already getting cold. My question is if I start doing some vinyl ester hole repair and I start it when the temp gets over 65 and gets up to maybe a little over 70 can you tell me how long the temp needs to be over 65 degrees to get me to the point that the cold won't hurt the repair. Please help! Thanks for all the awesome videos this one today is about exactly what I am wanting to do in next couple weeks.
Awesome, thanks! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos so much. 65 to 85 degrees is kind of the sweet spot for many resins, but 60 degrees and up can still work. You may just have to employ a few different techniques. Obviously, adding more catalyst is something you can do, as long as you are within the 1 to 2 percent range. Also, sunlight can greatly increase the cure rate of most resins. You can also be sure to keep your resins warm overnight, so they are up to temp when you are ready to work. If you can use some of these tips you can usually get your resin to harden in a hr or less. But even it takes 2 or more hrs to cure you should still be OK. Now that my charter season is slowing down I will probably be opening up more patreon spots to be able to do more direct consulting work. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV Awesome Captain Joe thanks for the info you are the best!
I like how you explained how you do the work can I build a wooden boat and cover it with fiber cloth and resins
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, it is pretty common to fiberglass over wood. You want to use a wood that accepts resin well like marine fir plywood. And a quality resin like vinyl ester or epoxy for the best results. You should definitely do plenty of research and practice and experiment with the materials before taking on a large project. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV ty for the information and advice the foam board that you use for the canopy for your 2900 is that good to use inside the hull for structure work
@vincentpereira8416 I like something even stronger and denser for internal structural work personally. I used coosa board in the 26 pound density when I built our 29 ft center console that you see in the background of our videos. I have a whole series of videos here on the channel documenting the build of the 29. They might be interesting and helpful. Thanks for watching!
I have a 16' fiberglass fishing boat which is a modified tri-haul. It has a damaged area on the keel and some other areas which I am concerned about. Do you have any recommended suggestions, or would you prefer pictures in addition before you give advise.
Just wondering do i need to do this like your hardtop project??
Theoretically, yes. You could make a mold from another boat or canoe. But some molds have to be built as a 2 piece unit because of the shapes involved. I am quite sure that a canoe mold would have to be built as a 2 piece, with a seam down the middle.That might be the only way the mold could release from the pattern. It would be much more complex to build than the hard top mold. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
I've got a project similar to this coming up. I have vents on the deck of my boat that I want to move to a different spot. It involves cutting a hole where the vent will go, and glassing over the old hole. But I will have a circle of glass exactly the right size to fill the old hole that came from where I cut the new hole. I was thinking of taping it to the deck and glassing from beneath, then filling any gaps with thinkend resin. Is that a good idea, or should I just throw away the circle of glass that I cut out of the deck for the new hole, and do it the way you have done it here? I will have to make it strong enough to walk on.
It could be done either way. I would probably lean towards using the cutout that you have and glassing it in on both sides if possible. I only glassed one side on the console because it is a non loaded and non structural application. It's always best to go heavy duty on something you are walking on. Thanks for watching
Hi Joe. Great channel. I have a Ranger Bass Boat that I had someone re-gel coat it a while back and the front “V” sections have some serious spider web cracks in them. I’m wanting to repair them, but most if not all of your content explains how to repair a colored gel coat. With mine being a clear coat I’m not sure just how to go about removing those cracks, filling them in and then replacing the clear gel coat and then blocking and water sanding/ buffing it out to a glossy finish. Is there a way I can contact you more directly to get help with this issue?
Could I use that same mix to do some cosmetic cracks after I Dremel them out? Then gelcoat over?
Yes, possibly. It would depend somewhat on what caused the cracks in the first place. I have a stress crack video coming very soon, so stay tuned, and thanks for watching!