We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
I dont mind the long video that u make because you go through everything step-by-step & explain everything in detail and that's awesome. I'm replacing my transom, engine stringers, floor stringer & floor in my 19 ft. ski boat and have never done this kid of work before and i have learned so much from your video on the right way to do things. We are all lucky to have you in our corner. Thank you
Me too sir. My beloved 19' Larson Senza needs new stringers and floor. This man is gonna help me get that done! I'm still trying to decide if to go Coosa board.
Great video. Bonding plywood with West System and then glassing with polyester resin makes a strong stout build. I've used that method for over 40 years on a lot of DIY boat projects.
Hi - I absolutely learned from your channel how to build a boat properly - I am starting my own boat project today! Wish me good luck and thank you for sharing your knowledge! Greetings from Poland!
Thank you Joe. It's great to have the benefit of your experience. I have been waiting for this epoxy video because, as you say, there are a lot of people giving advice who probably have only done it once or twice themselves and the West Systems epoxy is what many home builders are recommended to build with. Great video.
Awesome video! Thank you. I now watch your videos when i get home from working all day to relax and unwind. I would rather watch your channel and learn something very useful then the garbage on tv.
Thank you very much. I am a educated boatbuilder in Norway. Working at a boatyard/boatworks. I am mostly building large fastferries of carbonfibre and glassfibre, with polyester and vinylester products. Been working with epoxy very rare. Right now I am rebuilding a small fishingboat 12m Long. Extending the hull 1 metre and make it wider in the Stern. The hull is curved from the middle and the Stern is 1,2 m less with than midship original. I love to watch your content and love the oldschool metods. Proper way to do it! And the strongest lasting metods you use over there. This means a lot for me. Allways New stuff to learn Even if I have 15 years experience 👍😁
Fantastic, We appreciate you watching all the way from Norway 🇳🇴 ! Sounds like a very interesting project, glad you are finding the videos helpful! Best of luck with your fishingboat.
I don't build or repair boats... Heck, I've only ever been on a boat maybe 5x in my life! But, I'm here to learn this information to use it for hi-fi soeaker building. The info in this series is far more in depth and succinct than any of the speaker builder videos I've come across. Cheers!
Welcome to the channel! We have more wood and fiberglass- epoxy products planned. Maybe you will find some more useful info. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Being doing either frame work aka house building, cars and engines all my life. Recently bought 2 cheap 16ft fishing boats that need repairs. Glad I found you sir. Seem to be the better choice because you explain in better detail. Love the videos.
Yet, another excellent video!! Another poster has mentioned your choice of filler material -- while I really prefer either 404 or 406 for stringers and other less visible higher stress joints and 405 or 407 for cosmetic applications, you may want to elaborate on why you chose particular fillers for your different applications. Spoons and rounded paint sticks can make good fillets if you take the cheaper route! I also applaud your use of a zip lock for laying down fillet material -- they work well for filling deviled eggs too!🙂
Yes! Plastic spoons, I knew I missed something! We are planning another video on filler selection very soon, just ran out of time on this one. Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, and I love me some deviled eggs! I will have to try the ziploc trick.
@jimboclox2252 Interesting! I have been told that in a couple other comments, I have also been told I look like the main character on a show called Ozark. I think it's Jason Bateman? Funny what different people see and hear in somebody else sometimes!
Another great Video !! Thank You For helping out the DIY people !! I live very rural and don't have any place with in 60 miles to work on my boat, so kinda have to do as much as I can myself so these instructional videos are a big time and money saver !! Thanks Again for sharing your knowledge with us !!
I love the tip about not leave the mixed epoxy in the cup and spread it out on a board to keep it from heating up and setting up in the cup, great tip cause i have left it in the mixing cup and it get really hot fast like u explained.
I have almost completely rebuild my 1988 27” boat watching your videos and Andy’s from boatworks. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge! You wouldn’t believe the before and after photos of my boat.
Love the videos. I got a transom project I have been dreading to do, but I think you have inspired me to do it with more confidence now. I have learned a lot from you guys, and thanks for taking the time to educate us!
You’re doing such a great job demonstrating & explaining the tasks in an easy to understand way. I’m very grateful for your time in making this a powerhouse for information for anyone interested in learning more about how to correctly use expoxy & mating techniques.
Capt Joe and Fish bump family Awesome demonstration packed full of info every video keeps getting better every time appreciate y'all sharing family legacy
Man we thank you for all the info you've been providing on this channel. Because of you're videos, I just can't wait for the summer so I can take my boat out of storage.
Always good to turn on fish bump and watch absolute mastery at work!!! The colloidal silica is easier to mix into the epoxy but yes, I always always mask up when using it, but love the vacuum box idea, genius!!!!❤
A great video, again. I don't know if one day I will use epoxy or polyester (again), but I'm pretty sure, if that hapen, I wil be confident to do this. Thanks you to share your knowledge. If I had money, I would build a random stuff, just to play with this materials ;) Prenez soin de vous ;)
takes me back to the old days, i miss it. never used a filleting ball for filler...messy but no matter how you hold it the radius is consistent. i only used the ball for fillet wax when trying to add tolerance to a part, like adding a 1/4" gap between console and gunwale. i stumbled on your chanel a few days ago and i really dig it man. id venture to say not many people have seen what you are showing. i was fortunate to grow up in a boat town (multiple big mfg's) i commend you on your 29 brother, i know first hand the gruely never ending work to produce all the plugs, then molds, production mfg methods. unfortunately most of the carpentry and artisanship has faded from the manufacturing side. instead of plywood cross sections (stations), skinned, faired, finished. the last 39 i built was nearly all 5 axis CNC cut. its not paint ready but most of the heavy lifting done, this was 2008 so im sure its even further advanced now. back then our 3 axis plywood router was running non stop. years ago i got in the groove with an air file working this huge compound curve in a new plug. thats a fun tool, can mess things up real quick but in the right hands its like michael angelo's paint brush.
Wow, sounds like you have seen a lot! Yes, there aren't many shops doing things the more traditional ways anymore. I think that was one of the reasons I wanted to document some of the skills shops used to use so that it's not lost forever. Seems like folks enjoy seeing the process, as it is a mystery to many people. I completely understand the move to large cnc routers as it greatly speeds up the process, but many people and small shops may not be able to afford it. I appreciate you watching and commenting very much!
I've been working on the boat,,,,, 2 months,,,, I think I made it through it so far I'm going to watch this video didn't use much epoxy on my stringers but I didn't actually replace the transit I just kind of attached to it,,,,floor and freshen upright,,,, I did the front with polyester, glass then just epoxy paint,,,,, you had me scared so I rounded my edges,,,, but thank you for being true,,, it's just an old stringer boat,,,,, it's a nice conditio,, will the new camper canopy I couldn't throw it away
Thanks for sharing the skills. I've been doing fiberglass repairs on cars for 40 years but seeing your videos gives me some new ideas. Any advice on when and how to combine epoxies and polyester? I keep hearing different opinions.
Learning from Brazil. My go is building Cat central console with 18 till 25 ft. Appreciate you to share your knowledge's. Hope meet you in person one time, when I return to Dallas.
Another excellent video. Like I’ve said several times, I found you too late. This time last year is when I started my Checkmate rebuild. And epoxy was what I used because of the working time.
@@FishBumpTV not quiet as fast as I used to be. 71 yrs old. Just got the carpet down and next will be upholstery. A little more wiring and hopefully in the water by spring.
Hi guys. I'm in Ireland and about to undertake a deck replacement on my rib boat.I haven't started ripping the old floor up yet but plan to start early March..Your videos are great and will watch as many as I can before I start my deck replacement. Wish me luck.. Mark
Thanks again Captain Joe, your knowledge and time is much appreciated. By far my favourite channel you are an awesome presenter and I look forward to your postings, keep up the amazing work 👍🇦🇺
When we lay up the epoxy or polyester resin on the board and then scrap it over with a toothed trowel we finish off in the direction across the shortest dimension of the board. in this way the air between the boards has a shorter way out and less entrap[ed air result. great work, thank you very much for such professional insight into your art.
You're welcome. I'm glad to help! I have added 5 percent or so of a good quality iso polyester resin back to some older prostrand to thin it a bit. But a fresh can of prostrand shouldn't need any thinning in my opinion. I have used prostrand to tack in or set structural pieces before. In some applications, it can be fine, although a vinyl ester resin based peanut butter would be stronger but may be overkill. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Another great video. Thanks for demonstrating epoxy. I appreciate the double glove idea. It amazes me how you are able to do that work in such nice clothes.
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying the videos! There is nothing wrong with wearing a tyvek suit to help keep clean, but you will find that the more you work with it the easier it is to stay clean.
Hello Joe!, I am from Puerto Rico and your videos are a lot of help for me. I am rebuilding a 1988 Grady White Sailfish stringers. I have cut the complete cabin and deck leaving the the top part . The transom was done previously with an Armstrong bracket and two new motors. I am increasing the stringers from 3/4 to 1 1/2 bonding two 3/4 coosa boards together and will apply your methods doing everything with epoxy west systems, but I have a dilemma with the bedding of the stringers to the hull and how much to grind the hull for the new layup ! The Grady white company insisted to leave a gap of 3/8 to 1/2 . I asked them if i can apply a bedding on the side and they said yes but nothing in the bottom of the stringers and the hull because of that will cause a hotspot. And taking in consideration of the weight that i will put back on top of the stringers when I reassemble everything putting again the complete cabin part it make sense. I would be interesting to know you opinion on everything I am doing. Thanks in advance Carlos PD: I by the way! You are a true pro!
Thanks for watching! Sounds like a great project boat, I have always been a fan of the Grady whites. Every boat builder or company has various ways of doing things for one reason or the other. If Grady white recommends a particular method for their boat, you might want to follow there suggestions. For this particular job, it would be hard to say for sure what I might do, without being on the job. We will have more videos coming soon that you might find helpful. Best of luck with your project!
Hey Joe, I've appreciated your time in these videos, and I have a request and a separate question. At the beginning of this video, you show 4 different thickening additives but you didn't really explain why you would pick one over another (maybe that would be a good separate video) And my question is have you ever used resin and glass for a built in diesel fuel tank? It seems like a shame to use aluminum tanks and lose the area around the tanks, and mine have corroded leaks now 😢. Keep these videos going
We are planning a video going into more depth on the different filler pros and cons very soon, so stay tuned! And yes, our family has built internal diesel fuel tanks in some of our larger boats in the past. It can certainly be done. I do have a video of a built in fiberglass water tank in our custom 29. It would be quite a few videos back, maybe it would give you some insight into the process. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
West Systems did at one time produce a book called "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction ". I recommend it for great detail on using exopy with wood
Joe, thanks for the informative videos. I'm curious, is it possible/feasible to fabricate decks and other structural features with fiberglass and foam, rather than say plywood, for the sake of saving weight? If so, could you demonstrate/compare? Thanks.
I would imagine so, but that is not my area of expertise. Might have to look into building code and regs on that kind of project. Just not sure. Wish I had more for you on that one. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Been watching your videos for awhile. I really enjoy them. Question can you use that same epoxy to stick 2 pieces of coosa together or coosa to honeycomb board together thanks for the info.
This video was perfect timing for me. I am about to reinforce the front of the well of my 75 Glasply and add some new doors to protect the wiring and batteries that are housed under the well. So I will be using thickened epoxy glue to the pieces together. I never would have thought of the vent holes at 45*. What size SS screws are you using (8, 10?). Very informative. Thanks.
Hi great video's I'm not building a boat but all your videos on fiberglass are going to apply to my project. Learning alot already. I like the WEST SYSTEM epoxy. Can I paint over that with another epoxy waterproof paint? Thanks
Yes, you can paint over epoxy with a good paint system. I recommend using a good epoxy primer, then the paint for the best results. I hope this helps, and thanks for Watching!
Thanks so much! We did pour 4 pound density foam around the fuel tank of our 29. It is quite a few episodes back on the channel, but I will be doing a 2 pound flotation foam video soon. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching
@@FishBumpTVI e heard some bad things about the floatation foam. Would you be better to make air tight compartments in the flooring? Or bad idea? Ply stringer and transom
I dont mind the long videos either especially the way that you go in depth with the products you use and how to apply them. I do have a question, could I use that Six 10 adhesive to bond my fiberglassed floor to the stringers or would you recommend mixing a batch of the peanut butter for that?
Glad you are enjoying the videos. You could use the 610, or some peanut butter for bonding a floor down. I used 3M 5200 when we glued and screwed our Coosa floor panels down in our custom 29. We have some videos showing that in our boatbuilding series. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thank you! You could use a thickened epoxy like the west 610, or you could make your own blend using fillers like we showed in the video. You could also use 3m 5200 marine adhesive and sealant. We showed the use of 5200 a few videos back, that is also what we used when we put the Coosa decks down on our custom 29. You might find the 29 build videos interesting and helpful. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
When I use ground garden lime and epoxy I mix it a little slack on lime until well mixed. Then I add a little lime so that it is perfect for filleting. I was replacing Biaxel on a bottom and it ripped off in 2 inch strips, but places where damaged wood was repaired with lime the glass had to be ground off. The repairs had been many days before the Biaxel cloth was applied. Look up bamboo for boat building. Sailing Mangrove Charlie found marine-grade boards and plywood that were bamboo. You do the numbers. Aluminum has 30,000 psi tensile strength. Bamboo has 28,000 psi tensile strength. A cubic-foot block of aluminum rips apart at 4,320,000 psi. The same size block of bamboo rips at 4,032,000 psi. This aluminum's weight is 166 lbs the bamboo weighs 20 lbs.
Hey Mr. Buskens, serious question. I have a 03 nitro fiberglass boat, we recently discovered termites eating away the flooring and a bit into the stringers structure (FIBERGLASS , FOAM, MARINE PLYWOOD AND, FIBERGLASS MATTE.) We are considering restoring the flooring replacing wood with Coosa board. Because of the termite damage, should I be concerned of the integrity of the hull and shell? is there marine plywood sandwiched between the outside gel coat and the inside matte fiberglass?SHOULD THE HULL BE ONLY FIBERGLASS. NEED YOR EXPERTISE PLEASE HELP Hard to find info on 20+ yr old boats LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, I FEEL LIKE AN EXPERT AND THAT I CAN REPLICATE THE QUALITY WORK YOU DEMONSTRATE.
Capt.Joe these videos take a lot of time & effort thank you again for sharing your knowledge & ALWAYS answering my ? , I p/u at least 1tip on all your videos. The card board vac box 👍👍 on the homemade transom clamp I was wondering how the threads were set up w/bolts did you somehow get a nut inserted in the other layer of ply? Thanks again great job 👍👍
You are very welcome and I always appreciate your comments! Glad you liked the little vacuum box idea, it works really good. On the transom clamps I just have a hammer in type thread insert to run the bolt through, I will try to show that in more detail for you guys as soon as I can. As always, thanks for watching!
Joe I would love to see a video on what it would take to change the color of my boat with gel coat making a high gloss finish in my area we have a lot of ski / surf boats Thanks for all the knowledge you are sharing it is amazing
Thank you. It was amazing and really instructive .... what about bonding Stainless steel chainplates to a Polyester fiberglass hull ? Do you still think the Epoxy will create an enough hard adhesion to support rigging mast efforts ? I've read about some poliester / epoxy incompatible opinions that worried me ( I'm all old school DIY with polister and matts but new epoxies seems to have lot of advantages for certain jobs ). THX
Glad you enjoyed the video! Yes, epoxy would potentially be a good choice for bedding hardware. I will be doing more videos on that topic very soon for you guys. Hope this helps and thanks for Watching!
Great video! Getting ready to rebuild a transom in an aluminum boat. How big are the relief holes and how far apart should they be spaced? And does it matter if the holes are placed towards the inside of the boat or towards the back.
Thanks for watching! I usually drill 1/4 inch holes approximately 6 inches apart. I drill at a angle, downward from the inside of the boat. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Hi Joe, tuning in from the UK fantastic information you share in your videos very informative! Learning as I go and restoring my 80's British Fletcher 155. I'm on the stringers using larch pine and polyester resin (keeping original) but bonding with epoxy. I'm struggling with the prime coat to seal the wood before laying the fiberglass, using a low viscosity polyester resin 491pa, temp 15°c, catalysing at 2% medium MEKP, mixing 2mins. After 4 hours the surface was cured but it peeled easily from the wood and left a damp sticky surface and it also caused the filleting tool to remove some of that resin causing a lumpy mess at the edges of the fillet. Surfaces was prepped and pre heated, have you come across this issue? Is it my product? should I add more catalyst? Should I be doing the fillet before sealing? Be great to hear back from you Cheers 👍🚤
Thanks for watching all the way from the UK 🇬🇧! I read through the steps you took, and there are a couple of items that could possibly be the issue. First would be the larch pine, it is not a kind of wood that I have worked with before. We usually use marine grade plywood. We do have different kinds of pine lumber and I have noticed that sometimes it has a slick sheen or almost like a residue on the surface. I also noticed that you bonded the stringers with epoxy, but were using polyester resin for your primer coat. I generally don't mix different resin types on our boats. The reason is that polyester resin can have bonding and curing issues if applied over epoxy. I don't know if it is possible for you at this point, but since you have bonded the stringer in with epoxy, you might want to consider using epoxy resin for the whole job. I will be posting a epoxy over plywood, and a resin types and selection video very soon for you guys. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
Definitely interested in good places to buy supplies, and talks about how much of different things might be needed. Abrasives would be another good topic. Where's the best place to find sandpaper? That's often where project costs get out of control -Paper towels, popcorn cups, sandpaper, etc.
Like what you are doing captain Joe. I have questing on using the epoxy to put in stringers or transom. After using this to bed in or put transom in can we that off the amine and finish fiberglassing them all in with polyester resin .
No, it is not generally recommended that you go over epoxy with polyester. We will be laminating over the demo stringer and transom piece with 1708 biaxial and epoxy resin very soon for you guys. Thanks for watching!
Yep, if you build boats professionally for sale to the general public and issue a hull numbers for identification you are regulated by the Coast guard. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Have you or will you do a video on transom replacement on inboard stern drive? If not you can help me do mine lol Thanks for all of your awesome videos. You are very detailed on how to do the work.
Thanks a lot for the detailed information and sharing of your professional "secrets". I have a little project for your experience but for me is huge, i have the following question: i do have a WD Shock Santana 23 , 1984 made sailboat, deck and cockpit floor and cabinets/seats/coamings are made with 1/4" plywood 3/16" outter polyester fiberglass and 1/8" inside fiberglass. Gelcoat finished both sides. a crack just appeared in the seat/floor joint and expanded very fast. i do assume water came into the plywood to rotten it an loose its strength, at the end an L shaped crack about 8"x5" creates a zone to be repaired over a pretty big hole when damaged material be removed i guess 11"x6" and 4"wide on the floor and its vertical limit about 2" more. My question: what can i use as a backing material to avoid new fiberglass to go down that hole? That could easily removed later for the internal final fiberglassing? thanks in advance for you tip and advice. once again a joyful channel very educative.
Hi my stringers are loose on my 13 foot fiberglass 1956 wizard boat what should I use for wood to fiberglass structural bond Thank you Sir. You are a master craftsman I am learning so much My friend gave me this boat it is so cute I will make you proud on this boats journey back to the waters do you think a 20 hp motor is to large the chart its the max size looking into a suzuki motor with tilt & electric start it will be a short shaft
Just found your channel and I'm learning alot coming up soon and I'm rebuilding a 89 grady-white transom from the inside its a 252g with bracket full transom going to use marine ply wood it should out last me may hit you up for advice no one here in wv to ask for advice thanks for the videos
Hey. Just wanted to say I love your TH-cam videos. You’re doing great! I have my first boat a 1989 Penn yan explorer 2000. It’s fallen victim to a soft transom. I don’t want to get rid of it because I really do love it. Do you plan on making a video about repairing a transom? Mine unfortunately needs to be cut out from the back of the boat. *I have a splash well* I have zero fiberglass experience and want to see if it’s even practical for me to attempt myself. I’ve also looked into liquid transom. What are your thoughts on that?
Congrats on your new boat! Unfortunately, transoms going bad is a pretty common thing, but there are several options to fix it. It sounds like you have already done some research and see that there are 3 main options. I have replaced transoms from the inside, and outside but have not tried the liquid transom yet. Liquid transom seems like it could be great if it does what it is supposed to do. The other 2 options are going to be a pretty major job, especially if you have never worked with fiberglass. I don't want to discourage you, but want to be realistic, and help you make the best decision for You. Replacing from the outside is usually going to be easier for the type of boat you are describing. I don't currently have a video detailing that process, but I could possibly do a video touching on some of the steps you would be going through. In the meantime, you might want to pick up some basic fiberglass supplies and see how you feel about working with these materials. Some laminating polyester resin, and some csm and 1708 fiberglass are very commonly used materials, or you could go the epoxy route. either one could work. Maybe just experiment a little before you make a decision one way or the other. We do have some links below most of our recent videos for the materials we use and recommend. Your purchases also help support the work we are doing on the channel. We are also setting up for Patreon so we can help folks more directly if needed. this will be coming very soon. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you for the insight. I wouldn’t even be opposed to bringing the boat to you guys (I’m in New York) and maybe we can use it as a way to test liquid transom for a video or even use it for a transom replacement video and maybe you could teach me some fiberglass basics while I’m there. “Fiberglass made easy for a diy-er with minimal experience”
Been watching your channel and loving it. Would you normally use epoxy for glueing stringers etc then epoxy for laminating/ glassing over top And polyester for glueing and polyester for laminating or can you glue with epoxy then polyester glass over top Cheers Goatqld
Glad you are enjoying the channel! If we bond with epoxy, we laminate with epoxy. I don't recommend going over epoxy products with polyester products. We usually use one or the other. You can use epoxy over cured polyester and vinyl Ester resins with no problem. I will have a resin selection video coming soon for you guys. Thanks for watching!
Just a little technical clarification; vinyl- and polyester resins use a catalyst; the amount of catalyst can vary depending on how fast you want the reaction ; the catalyst isn’t consumed in the reaction, it just causes the curing reaction . With epoxy, the resin and hardener are both consumed and therefore have to be mixed in the exact ratio given by the supplier. For example, adding a little extra hardener won’t speed up the reaction , it will just weaken the structure since the cured epoxy will have excess uncured hardener in it (forever)
Thank you for the video. I wonder if you can help me with your suggestions. I am replacing on a 33 ft catamaran a 15HP 2stroke OB with a 25HP HT OB. There is a weight difference from the 92lbs of the 15HP to the 147lbs of the 25HP - so 55lbs. Very similar dimensions and same pivot point measurements and Length - other than that one has the manual bolts, the other one must be bolted. So the current transom is 3 pieces of wood epoxies together to make a 18" long x 2" thick x 6" deep piece that is bolted x2 at the ends to the body of the sailboat. it works very well with the 15HP in Gale storms. My thought was to make a new thicker and deeper piece with 3 pieces of marine plywood and epoxy, followed by 3 layers of of 1708 Biaxle (17oz with 3/4oz mat) with epoxy. so the whole piece would be close to 3" thick by 12" deep and 18" wide. Is it an overkill to add a transom support plate? What are your thoughts? The transom is out of view.
Glad you are enjoying the channel! I always say that it is better to overbuild, than to underbuild! Especially in a area that is critical, and if weight and cosmetics are not a factor. Of course this is just my opinion! I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
A big hello from Sweden, up in Northern Europe! One question, or maybe material for a video. You told us before that you use fir marine plywood but I'm not finding that over here, only teak and other expensive/exclusive materials. I do find construction plywood made of fir in a quality called K20/70 or something like that. What's the difference and why can't I use construction plywood in a boat build?
We love Sweden 🇸🇪 welcome to the channel! I am not familiar with the plywood grades in Sweden, but if it is a exterior grade plywood with good cosmetics and made of Fir, I would imagine it could work. I wish I could tell you for sure one way or the other. I will try to do some research on this subject for you guys and post in a video soon. Thanks for watching
I would not recommend clear silicone as a glue, it works just fine as a sealant in some applications. If you want to permanently glue something together I would recommend either west systems 610 or 3m 5200. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
It can potentially be done either way. On my 29, I glassed in the transom core, then glassed the stringers to the transom. You just want to be sure that everything is very well sealed and water tight. Be sure to use plenty of fiberglass when tying everything together because the transom takes a lot of abuse. I will be starting the transom replacement on our 21 ft Blazer Bay very soon, so stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
Yes, most of our videos have links below the description and buying through those links helps support the channel. I will make sure we continue to do that for you guys. Hope this helps,and thanks for Watching!
I have actually started pulling down the volume in the edits when the power tools are running in the newer videos. Making the videos is always a work in progress. Thanks for watching and for the suggestion!
have you ever experimented with making your own pourable transom? seacast is 5 min from my house im just being cheap, and i have an abundance of polyester resin. i know i cant just use it like normal, it'll get way too hot and probably crack all over. is there such a thing as a "slow" catalyst? i found filler materials like ceramic microspheres, to add to a cabosil, csm mush to make a seacast consistency...which happens to be polyester based. just wondering if you or your buddies ever tried such an experiment. i cleaned out the transom cavity from the top today and im left with a flawless fiberglass cavity, 5/16"+ thickness on the hull, and roughly 1/8" thick inner transom shell approx 24 x 24 x 1.125. from watching your channel id say you'd probably lean toward cutting the inner shell off the transom cavity and laminating new ply and glass everything back vs a pourable solution
Yes, you are right in assuming that I would probably just replace the transom with a new core. But I also understand that there many applications that a pour able transom could be a great option. I would imagine that some combination of materials could work in place of seacast or one of the other pourable transoms, but I don't know if the money saved would be worth the risk of it not working in my opinion. I hope to do a video on one of these products in the future, so stay tuned!
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
I dont mind the long video that u make because you go through everything step-by-step & explain everything in detail and that's awesome. I'm replacing my transom, engine stringers, floor stringer & floor in my 19 ft. ski boat and have never done this kid of work before and i have learned so much from your video on the right way to do things. We are all lucky to have you in our corner. Thank you
I appreciate that! Thanks for your thoughts!
Me too sir. My beloved 19' Larson Senza needs new stringers and floor. This man is gonna help me get that done! I'm still trying to decide if to go Coosa board.
You’re probably the #1 fibreglass TH-camr right now!! Thanks for the amazing vids bud!!! Greetings from Spain!
Wow, thanks! I appreciate you watching all the way from Spain 🇪🇸!
Thanks and keep going man!!!...!@@FishBumpTV
Great video. Bonding plywood with West System and then glassing with polyester resin makes a strong stout build. I've used that method for over 40 years on a lot of DIY boat projects.
Great tip! Thanks for watching and commenting
Hi - I absolutely learned from your channel how to build a boat properly - I am starting my own boat project today! Wish me good luck and thank you for sharing your knowledge! Greetings from Poland!
That's great! Glad you are enjoying the channel! Thanks for watching all of the way from Poland!
Thank you Joe. It's great to have the benefit of your experience. I have been waiting for this epoxy video because, as you say, there are a lot of people giving advice who probably have only done it once or twice themselves and the West Systems epoxy is what many home builders are recommended to build with. Great video.
Glad it was helpful! I have several more epoxy related videos planned for you guys, so stay tuned.
Awesome video! Thank you.
I now watch your videos when i get home from working all day to relax and unwind. I would rather watch your channel and learn something very useful then the garbage on tv.
Thanks so much, glad you are enjoying the videos and learning something that you can use! I appreciate you commenting and watching!
Thank you very much. I am a educated boatbuilder in Norway. Working at a boatyard/boatworks. I am mostly building large fastferries of carbonfibre and glassfibre, with polyester and vinylester products. Been working with epoxy very rare. Right now I am rebuilding a small fishingboat 12m Long. Extending the hull 1 metre and make it wider in the Stern. The hull is curved from the middle and the Stern is 1,2 m less with than midship original. I love to watch your content and love the oldschool metods. Proper way to do it! And the strongest lasting metods you use over there. This means a lot for me. Allways New stuff to learn Even if I have 15 years experience 👍😁
Fantastic, We appreciate you watching all the way from Norway 🇳🇴 ! Sounds like a very interesting project, glad you are finding the videos helpful! Best of luck with your fishingboat.
I don't build or repair boats... Heck, I've only ever been on a boat maybe 5x in my life! But, I'm here to learn this information to use it for hi-fi soeaker building. The info in this series is far more in depth and succinct than any of the speaker builder videos I've come across. Cheers!
Welcome to the channel! We have more wood and fiberglass- epoxy products planned. Maybe you will find some more useful info. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Being doing either frame work aka house building, cars and engines all my life. Recently bought 2 cheap 16ft fishing boats that need repairs. Glad I found you sir. Seem to be the better choice because you explain in better detail. Love the videos.
I'm glad the videos are helpful, and I appreciate you watching!
Yet, another excellent video!! Another poster has mentioned your choice of filler material -- while I really prefer either 404 or 406 for stringers and other less visible higher stress joints and 405 or 407 for cosmetic applications, you may want to elaborate on why you chose particular fillers for your different applications. Spoons and rounded paint sticks can make good fillets if you take the cheaper route! I also applaud your use of a zip lock for laying down fillet material -- they work well for filling deviled eggs too!🙂
Yes! Plastic spoons, I knew I missed something! We are planning another video on filler selection very soon, just ran out of time on this one. Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, and I love me some deviled eggs! I will have to try the ziploc trick.
Love Your videos! Your like the Mr Rogers of boat building! You take the stress out of it.
Haha! I have been told I am like the Bob Ross of fiberglass, but never the Mr Roger's. That's a good one! Thanks for watching and commenting
@@FishBumpTV what is REALLY freaky is that you sound just like the United States Senator from Kentucky, Rand Paul. Its crazy!!
@jimboclox2252 Interesting! I have been told that in a couple other comments, I have also been told I look like the main character on a show called Ozark. I think it's Jason Bateman? Funny what different people see and hear in somebody else sometimes!
Another great Video !! Thank You For helping out the DIY people !! I live very rural and don't have any place with in 60 miles to work on my boat, so kinda have to do as much as I can myself so these instructional videos are a big time and money saver !! Thanks Again for sharing your knowledge with us !!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting!
As a boat owner I appreciate your videos..Will certainly share them with my guys here in Jamaica..Big up and bless up
That's awesome! You are the first to comment from Jamaica 🇯🇲, much appreciated!
I'm in the UK just looking to renew a rotten bulkhead, great informative videos. cheers john
Thanks for sharing what you are working on and for watching all of the way from the UK!
I love the tip about not leave the mixed epoxy in the cup and spread it out on a board to keep it from heating up and setting up in the cup, great tip cause i have left it in the mixing cup and it get really hot fast like u explained.
Glad it was helpful! It can make a real difference sometimes. Thanks for watching
the fish love you making these video's they catch a brake your not on the water great job teaching
Haha, I hear ya! Thanks for watching!
I have almost completely rebuild my 1988 27” boat watching your videos and Andy’s from boatworks. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge! You wouldn’t believe the before and after photos of my boat.
That is awesome! Glad our videos helped you with your project, we have many more to come!
Indonesia here... always enjoy watching your videos
Thanks for watching all the way from Indonesia 🇮🇩! Glad you are enjoying the videos!
Love the videos. I got a transom project I have been dreading to do, but I think you have inspired me to do it with more confidence now. I have learned a lot from you guys, and thanks for taking the time to educate us!
Glad to help, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for great video. I am learning. Greetings from Denmark
You are welcome! We love Denmark 🇩🇰
You’re doing such a great job demonstrating & explaining the tasks in an easy to understand way.
I’m very grateful for your time in making this a powerhouse for information for anyone interested in learning more about how to correctly use expoxy & mating techniques.
Wow, thank you so much! Glad you are enjoying the videos!
Capt Joe and Fish bump family Awesome demonstration packed full of info every video keeps getting better every time appreciate y'all sharing family legacy
Thanks 👍that is very much appreciated!
I like it!! Very helpful for visual learning folks like me. A+++
Glad you enjoyed it! I appreciate the comment
Thank you, that was educational. You appear to be a journeyman in fiberglass work, and it shows.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Good morning from Greece, thanks to you I fell ready to start building my own boat, thanks again, keep going this excellent work!!!!!
You can do it! Best of luck with your project!
Big thanks to you all for these videos!
Glad you like them!
Sharing some of the nice little tricks I love it! I always use the back of a plastic spoon for fillets
Cool tip, thanks for watching!
Man we thank you for all the info you've been providing on this channel. Because of you're videos, I just can't wait for the summer so I can take my boat out of storage.
Glad to help, and best of luck with your project!
Always good to turn on fish bump and watch absolute mastery at work!!! The colloidal silica is easier to mix into the epoxy but yes, I always always mask up when using it, but love the vacuum box idea, genius!!!!❤
Wow, thanks so much! Glad you liked the vacuum box, it works great.
Good work Capt Joe
Thanks so much!
15：30 These are great ideas. The product is completed thanks to the small holes. I was impressed.
Thanks!
A great video, again. I don't know if one day I will use epoxy or polyester (again), but I'm pretty sure, if that hapen, I wil be confident to do this. Thanks you to share your knowledge.
If I had money, I would build a random stuff, just to play with this materials ;)
Prenez soin de vous ;)
Thank you, glad you are enjoying the videos!
takes me back to the old days, i miss it. never used a filleting ball for filler...messy but no matter how you hold it the radius is consistent. i only used the ball for fillet wax when trying to add tolerance to a part, like adding a 1/4" gap between console and gunwale. i stumbled on your chanel a few days ago and i really dig it man. id venture to say not many people have seen what you are showing. i was fortunate to grow up in a boat town (multiple big mfg's) i commend you on your 29 brother, i know first hand the gruely never ending work to produce all the plugs, then molds, production mfg methods.
unfortunately most of the carpentry and artisanship has faded from the manufacturing side. instead of plywood cross sections (stations), skinned, faired, finished.
the last 39 i built was nearly all 5 axis CNC cut. its not paint ready but most of the heavy lifting done, this was 2008 so im sure its even further advanced now. back then our 3 axis plywood router was running non stop. years ago i got in the groove with an air file working this huge compound curve in a new plug. thats a fun tool, can mess things up real quick but in the right hands its like michael angelo's paint brush.
Wow, sounds like you have seen a lot! Yes, there aren't many shops doing things the more traditional ways anymore. I think that was one of the reasons I wanted to document some of the skills shops used to use so that it's not lost forever. Seems like folks enjoy seeing the process, as it is a mystery to many people. I completely understand the move to large cnc routers as it greatly speeds up the process, but many people and small shops may not be able to afford it. I appreciate you watching and commenting very much!
Thank you, Captain Joe!
You are very welcome, thanks for watching!
I've been working on the boat,,,,, 2 months,,,, I think I made it through it so far I'm going to watch this video didn't use much epoxy on my stringers but I didn't actually replace the transit I just kind of attached to it,,,,floor and freshen upright,,,, I did the front with polyester, glass then just epoxy paint,,,,, you had me scared so I rounded my edges,,,, but thank you for being true,,, it's just an old stringer boat,,,,, it's a nice conditio,, will the new camper canopy I couldn't throw it away
Thanks for sharing! Glad you are making some good progress on your boat!
Thanks for sharing the skills. I've been doing fiberglass repairs on cars for 40 years but seeing your videos gives me some new ideas. Any advice on when and how to combine epoxies and polyester? I keep hearing different opinions.
We have some videos on that subject coming out soon, so stay tuned. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can you Laminate over epoxy using polyester resin?
Learning from Brazil. My go is building Cat central console with 18 till 25 ft. Appreciate you to share your knowledge's. Hope meet you in person one time, when I return to Dallas.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video, very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Another excellent video. Like I’ve said several times, I found you too late. This time last year is when I started my Checkmate rebuild. And epoxy was what I used because of the working time.
Thanks for sharing! Maybe you need another project boat!
@@FishBumpTV not quiet as fast as I used to be. 71 yrs old. Just got the carpet down and next will be upholstery. A little more wiring and hopefully in the water by spring.
Hi guys. I'm in Ireland and about to undertake a deck replacement on my rib boat.I haven't started ripping the old floor up yet but plan to start early March..Your videos are great and will watch as many as I can before I start my deck replacement. Wish me luck..
Mark
Fantastic, thanks for watching all the way from Ireland 🇮🇪! Best of luck with your project!
@@FishBumpTV when I get started may I ask for tips along the scary 😨 process?
Great video again- I like the zip lock bag trick!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks again Captain Joe, your knowledge and time is much appreciated. By far my favourite channel you are an awesome presenter and I look forward to your postings, keep up the amazing work 👍🇦🇺
Wow, thanks! I truly appreciate the comment!
When we lay up the epoxy or polyester resin on the board and then scrap it over with a toothed trowel we finish off in the direction across the shortest dimension of the board.
in this way the air between the boards has a shorter way out and less entrap[ed air result.
great work, thank you very much for such professional insight into your art.
Thanks for watching
Great job . thank you for making the tough look easy
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Love the long videos im ordering stuff from Amazon to do my boat just ordered a sheet of Coosa 382 dollars for 4x8x3/4
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and best of luck with your project!
Great job !
Thank you!
Thank you for your time. Can you thin NAPA Prostrand to set stringers (instead of peanut butter)?
You're welcome. I'm glad to help! I have added 5 percent or so of a good quality iso polyester resin back to some older prostrand to thin it a bit. But a fresh can of prostrand shouldn't need any thinning in my opinion. I have used prostrand to tack in or set structural pieces before. In some applications, it can be fine, although a vinyl ester resin based peanut butter would be stronger but may be overkill. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thank you Capt. Joe Busken and Logan too.@@FishBumpTV
Another great video. Thanks for demonstrating epoxy. I appreciate the double glove idea. It amazes me how you are able to do that work in such nice clothes.
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying the videos! There is nothing wrong with wearing a tyvek suit to help keep clean, but you will find that the more you work with it the easier it is to stay clean.
Hello Joe!,
I am from Puerto Rico and your videos are a lot of help for me. I am rebuilding a 1988 Grady White Sailfish stringers. I have cut the complete cabin and deck leaving the the top part . The transom was done previously with an Armstrong bracket and two new motors.
I am increasing the stringers from 3/4 to 1 1/2 bonding two 3/4 coosa boards together and will apply your methods doing everything with epoxy west systems, but I have a dilemma with the bedding of the stringers to the hull and how much to grind the hull for the new layup ! The Grady white company insisted to leave a gap of 3/8 to 1/2 . I asked them if i can apply a bedding on the side and they said yes but nothing in the bottom of the stringers and the hull because of that will cause a hotspot. And taking in consideration of the weight that i will put back on top of the stringers when I reassemble everything putting again the complete cabin part it make sense.
I would be interesting to know you opinion on everything I am doing.
Thanks in advance
Carlos
PD: I by the way! You are a true pro!
Thanks for watching! Sounds like a great project boat, I have always been a fan of the Grady whites. Every boat builder or company has various ways of doing things for one reason or the other. If Grady white recommends a particular method for their boat, you might want to follow there suggestions. For this particular job, it would be hard to say for sure what I might do, without being on the job. We will have more videos coming soon that you might find helpful. Best of luck with your project!
Great thanks joe your always a pleasure to watch
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks so much!
fantastic videos BTW. Thanks. I'm going to watch everything you do
Awesome, thank you!
Hey Joe, I've appreciated your time in these videos, and I have a request and a separate question. At the beginning of this video, you show 4 different thickening additives but you didn't really explain why you would pick one over another (maybe that would be a good separate video)
And my question is have you ever used resin and glass for a built in diesel fuel tank? It seems like a shame to use aluminum tanks and lose the area around the tanks, and mine have corroded leaks now 😢.
Keep these videos going
We are planning a video going into more depth on the different filler pros and cons very soon, so stay tuned! And yes, our family has built internal diesel fuel tanks in some of our larger boats in the past. It can certainly be done. I do have a video of a built in fiberglass water tank in our custom 29. It would be quite a few videos back, maybe it would give you some insight into the process. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
West Systems did at one time produce a book called "The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction ". I recommend it for great detail on using exopy with wood
Joe, thanks for the informative videos. I'm curious, is it possible/feasible to fabricate decks and other structural features with fiberglass and foam, rather than say plywood, for the sake of saving weight? If so, could you demonstrate/compare? Thanks.
I would imagine so, but that is not my area of expertise. Might have to look into building code and regs on that kind of project. Just not sure. Wish I had more for you on that one. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Okay thanks.
Well explained as always. Top Pro tips thanks 🙏👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Been watching your videos for awhile. I really enjoy them. Question can you use that same epoxy to stick 2 pieces of coosa together or coosa to honeycomb board together thanks for the info.
Yes, for sure bonding Coosa together. It should work great. Thanks for watching and!
^Thank you for your time
You are very welcome, and thanks for Watching!
Very impressive. Thanks again
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks another fantastic video
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for watching!
Great workmanship ,hi from nova scotia
I appreciate that very much and thanks for watching all of the way from Nova Scotia!
What screws do you prefer to use when bonding stringers? I’m about to build a Grady white. Keep the videos coming. Great job at explaining things!
For screwing 2 layers of 3/4 plywood or Coosa together I like to use 1 1/4 inch stainless panhead screws. Best of luck with your project!
This video was perfect timing for me. I am about to reinforce the front of the well of my 75 Glasply and add some new doors to protect the wiring and batteries that are housed under the well. So I will be using thickened epoxy glue to the pieces together. I never would have thought of the vent holes at 45*. What size SS screws are you using (8, 10?). Very informative. Thanks.
We use #10 or 12s on bigger boats. Thanks for watching
Hi great video's I'm not building a boat but all your videos on fiberglass are going to apply to my project. Learning alot already. I like the WEST SYSTEM epoxy. Can I paint over that with another epoxy waterproof paint? Thanks
Yes, you can paint over epoxy with a good paint system. I recommend using a good epoxy primer, then the paint for the best results. I hope this helps, and thanks for Watching!
Thank you for your videos... 😊
Glad you like them!
Love the videos Joe I’ve watched most of them did you do any on foam? I’d love to hear your thoughts on this
Thanks so much! We did pour 4 pound density foam around the fuel tank of our 29. It is quite a few episodes back on the channel, but I will be doing a 2 pound flotation foam video soon. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching
@@FishBumpTVI e heard some bad things about the floatation foam. Would you be better to make air tight compartments in the flooring? Or bad idea? Ply stringer and transom
I dont mind the long videos either especially the way that you go in depth with the products you use and how to apply them. I do have a question, could I use that Six 10 adhesive to bond my fiberglassed floor to the stringers or would you recommend mixing a batch of the peanut butter for that?
Glad you are enjoying the videos. You could use the 610, or some peanut butter for bonding a floor down. I used 3M 5200 when we glued and screwed our Coosa floor panels down in our custom 29. We have some videos showing that in our boatbuilding series. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Great content keep the videos coming. What is the best way to bond the deck to the stringers.
Thank you! You could use a thickened epoxy like the west 610, or you could make your own blend using fillers like we showed in the video. You could also use 3m 5200 marine adhesive and sealant. We showed the use of 5200 a few videos back, that is also what we used when we put the Coosa decks down on our custom 29. You might find the 29 build videos interesting and helpful. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Brilliant thanks for the reply
When I use ground garden lime and epoxy I mix it a little slack on lime until well mixed. Then I add a little lime so that it is perfect for filleting. I was replacing Biaxel on a bottom and it ripped off in 2 inch strips, but places where damaged wood was repaired with lime the glass had to be ground off. The repairs had been many days before the Biaxel cloth was applied. Look up bamboo for boat building. Sailing Mangrove Charlie found marine-grade boards and plywood that were bamboo. You do the numbers. Aluminum has 30,000 psi tensile strength. Bamboo has 28,000 psi tensile strength. A cubic-foot block of aluminum rips apart at 4,320,000 psi. The same size block of bamboo rips at 4,032,000 psi. This aluminum's weight is 166 lbs the bamboo weighs 20 lbs.
Interesting info, thanks for your thoughts!
Hey Mr. Buskens, serious question. I have a 03 nitro fiberglass boat, we recently discovered termites eating away the flooring and a bit into the stringers structure (FIBERGLASS , FOAM, MARINE PLYWOOD AND, FIBERGLASS MATTE.) We are considering restoring the flooring replacing wood with Coosa board. Because of the termite damage, should I be concerned of the integrity of the hull and shell? is there marine plywood sandwiched between the outside gel coat and the inside matte fiberglass?SHOULD THE HULL BE ONLY FIBERGLASS. NEED YOR EXPERTISE PLEASE HELP Hard to find info on 20+ yr old boats
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, I FEEL LIKE AN EXPERT AND THAT I CAN REPLICATE THE QUALITY WORK YOU DEMONSTRATE.
Capt.Joe these videos take a lot of time & effort thank you again for sharing your knowledge & ALWAYS answering my ? , I p/u at least 1tip on all your videos. The card board vac box 👍👍 on the homemade transom clamp I was wondering how the threads were set up w/bolts did you somehow get a nut inserted in the other layer of ply? Thanks again great job 👍👍
You are very welcome and I always appreciate your comments! Glad you liked the little vacuum box idea, it works really good. On the transom clamps I just have a hammer in type thread insert to run the bolt through, I will try to show that in more detail for you guys as soon as I can. As always, thanks for watching!
Joe I would love to see a video on what it would take to change the color of my boat with gel coat making a high gloss finish in my area we have a lot of ski / surf boats
Thanks for all the knowledge you are sharing it is amazing
Great suggestion! Thanks for watching
Thank you. It was amazing and really instructive .... what about bonding Stainless steel chainplates to a Polyester fiberglass hull ? Do you still think the Epoxy will create an enough hard adhesion to support rigging mast efforts ? I've read about some poliester / epoxy incompatible opinions that worried me ( I'm all old school DIY with polister and matts but new epoxies seems to have lot of advantages for certain jobs ). THX
Glad you enjoyed the video! Yes, epoxy would potentially be a good choice for bedding hardware. I will be doing more videos on that topic very soon for you guys. Hope this helps and thanks for Watching!
Great video! Getting ready to rebuild a transom in an aluminum boat. How big are the relief holes and how far apart should they be spaced? And does it matter if the holes are placed towards the inside of the boat or towards the back.
Thanks for watching! I usually drill 1/4 inch holes approximately 6 inches apart. I drill at a angle, downward from the inside of the boat. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Great videos. Have you used Duratec High Gloss Additive it’s meant to make gelcoat spray like paint👍
Yes, I have. It is a good product, and I plan on showing its uses on the channel as soon as I get a chance. Thanks for watching!
Keep it up!!!!
Will do! Thanks for Watching!
Hi from Cuba
Hello there! Welcome to the channel. We appreciate you watching all the way from 🇨🇺 Cuba!
17-19 foot skiff build !
Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi Joe, tuning in from the UK fantastic information you share in your videos very informative! Learning as I go and restoring my 80's British Fletcher 155. I'm on the stringers using larch pine and polyester resin (keeping original) but bonding with epoxy. I'm struggling with the prime coat to seal the wood before laying the fiberglass, using a low viscosity polyester resin 491pa, temp 15°c, catalysing at 2% medium MEKP, mixing 2mins. After 4 hours the surface was cured but it peeled easily from the wood and left a damp sticky surface and it also caused the filleting tool to remove some of that resin causing a lumpy mess at the edges of the fillet. Surfaces was prepped and pre heated, have you come across this issue? Is it my product? should I add more catalyst? Should I be doing the fillet before sealing? Be great to hear back from you
Cheers 👍🚤
Thanks for watching all the way from the UK 🇬🇧! I read through the steps you took, and there are a couple of items that could possibly be the issue. First would be the larch pine, it is not a kind of wood that I have worked with before. We usually use marine grade plywood. We do have different kinds of pine lumber and I have noticed that sometimes it has a slick sheen or almost like a residue on the surface. I also noticed that you bonded the stringers with epoxy, but were using polyester resin for your primer coat. I generally don't mix different resin types on our boats. The reason is that polyester resin can have bonding and curing issues if applied over epoxy. I don't know if it is possible for you at this point, but since you have bonded the stringer in with epoxy, you might want to consider using epoxy resin for the whole job. I will be posting a epoxy over plywood, and a resin types and selection video very soon for you guys. I hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
Definitely interested in good places to buy supplies, and talks about how much of different things might be needed. Abrasives would be another good topic. Where's the best place to find sandpaper? That's often where project costs get out of control -Paper towels, popcorn cups, sandpaper, etc.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the suggestion
Like what you are doing captain Joe. I have questing on using the epoxy to put in stringers or transom. After using this to bed in or put transom in can we that off the amine and finish fiberglassing them all in with polyester resin .
No, it is not generally recommended that you go over epoxy with polyester. We will be laminating over the demo stringer and transom piece with 1708 biaxial and epoxy resin very soon for you guys. Thanks for watching!
I didn't know the US Coast Guard had a boat builders license? Learn something new everyday.
Yep, if you build boats professionally for sale to the general public and issue a hull numbers for identification you are regulated by the Coast guard. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Have you or will you do a video on transom replacement on inboard stern drive? If not you can help me do mine lol
Thanks for all of your awesome videos. You are very detailed on how to do the work.
I have a project boat series that we will be starting soon. It will need a transom, stringers, floor etc. So stay tuned!
Thanks a lot for the detailed information and sharing of your professional "secrets". I have a little project for your experience but for me is huge, i have the following question: i do have a WD Shock Santana 23 , 1984 made sailboat, deck and cockpit floor and cabinets/seats/coamings are made with 1/4" plywood 3/16" outter polyester fiberglass and 1/8" inside fiberglass. Gelcoat finished both sides. a crack just appeared in the seat/floor joint and expanded very fast. i do assume water came into the plywood to rotten it an loose its strength, at the end an L shaped crack about 8"x5" creates a zone to be repaired over a pretty big hole when damaged material be removed i guess 11"x6" and 4"wide on the floor and its vertical limit about 2" more.
My question: what can i use as a backing material to avoid new fiberglass to go down that hole? That could easily removed later for the internal final fiberglassing? thanks in advance for you tip and advice. once again a joyful channel very educative.
Hi my stringers are loose on my 13 foot fiberglass 1956 wizard boat what should I use for wood to fiberglass structural bond Thank you Sir. You are a master craftsman I am learning so much My friend gave me this boat it is so cute I will make you proud on this boats journey back to the waters do you think a 20 hp motor is to large the chart its the max size looking into a suzuki motor with tilt & electric start it will be a short shaft
I do a lot of that caulking around windows and doors so I’ve got plenty of experience in that
I appreciate the comment!
Just found your channel and I'm learning alot coming up soon and I'm rebuilding a 89 grady-white transom from the inside its a 252g with bracket full transom going to use marine ply wood it should out last me may hit you up for advice no one here in wv to ask for advice thanks for the videos
Welcome to the channel, glad you are enjoying the vids! Sounds like a great project boat. Thanks for watching!
Hey. Just wanted to say I love your TH-cam videos. You’re doing great!
I have my first boat a 1989 Penn yan explorer 2000. It’s fallen victim to a soft transom. I don’t want to get rid of it because I really do love it. Do you plan on making a video about repairing a transom? Mine unfortunately needs to be cut out from the back of the boat. *I have a splash well* I have zero fiberglass experience and want to see if it’s even practical for me to attempt myself. I’ve also looked into liquid transom. What are your thoughts on that?
Congrats on your new boat! Unfortunately, transoms going bad is a pretty common thing, but there are several options to fix it. It sounds like you have already done some research and see that there are 3 main options. I have replaced transoms from the inside, and outside but have not tried the liquid transom yet. Liquid transom seems like it could be great if it does what it is supposed to do. The other 2 options are going to be a pretty major job, especially if you have never worked with fiberglass. I don't want to discourage you, but want to be realistic, and help you make the best decision for You. Replacing from the outside is usually going to be easier for the type of boat you are describing. I don't currently have a video detailing that process, but I could possibly do a video touching on some of the steps you would be going through. In the meantime, you might want to pick up some basic fiberglass supplies and see how you feel about working with these materials. Some laminating polyester resin, and some csm and 1708 fiberglass are very commonly used materials, or you could go the epoxy route. either one could work. Maybe just experiment a little before you make a decision one way or the other. We do have some links below most of our recent videos for the materials we use and recommend. Your purchases also help support the work we are doing on the channel. We are also setting up for Patreon so we can help folks more directly if needed. this will be coming very soon. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you for the insight. I wouldn’t even be opposed to bringing the boat to you guys (I’m in New York) and maybe we can use it as a way to test liquid transom for a video or even use it for a transom replacement video and maybe you could teach me some fiberglass basics while I’m there. “Fiberglass made easy for a diy-er with minimal experience”
Been watching your channel and loving it. Would you normally use epoxy for glueing stringers etc then epoxy for laminating/ glassing over top And polyester for glueing and polyester for laminating or can you glue with epoxy then polyester glass over top
Cheers Goatqld
Glad you are enjoying the channel! If we bond with epoxy, we laminate with epoxy. I don't recommend going over epoxy products with polyester products. We usually use one or the other. You can use epoxy over cured polyester and vinyl Ester resins with no problem. I will have a resin selection video coming soon for you guys. Thanks for watching!
Just a little technical clarification; vinyl- and polyester resins use a catalyst; the amount of catalyst can vary depending on how fast you want the reaction ; the catalyst isn’t consumed in the reaction, it just causes the curing reaction . With epoxy, the resin and hardener are both consumed and therefore have to be mixed in the exact ratio given by the supplier. For example, adding a little extra hardener won’t speed up the reaction , it will just weaken the structure since the cured epoxy will have excess uncured hardener in it (forever)
I viewed twice
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for the video. I wonder if you can help me with your suggestions. I am replacing on a 33 ft catamaran a 15HP 2stroke OB with a 25HP HT OB. There is a weight difference from the 92lbs of the 15HP to the 147lbs of the 25HP - so 55lbs. Very similar dimensions and same pivot point measurements and Length - other than that one has the manual bolts, the other one must be bolted.
So the current transom is 3 pieces of wood epoxies together to make a 18" long x 2" thick x 6" deep piece that is bolted x2 at the ends to the body of the sailboat. it works very well with the 15HP in Gale storms.
My thought was to make a new thicker and deeper piece with 3 pieces of marine plywood and epoxy, followed by 3 layers of of 1708 Biaxle (17oz with 3/4oz mat) with epoxy. so the whole piece would be close to 3" thick by 12" deep and 18" wide. Is it an overkill to add a transom support plate?
What are your thoughts? The transom is out of view.
Glad you are enjoying the channel! I always say that it is better to overbuild, than to underbuild! Especially in a area that is critical, and if weight and cosmetics are not a factor. Of course this is just my opinion! I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I’d love to see a closer picture of both sides of the clamp. Possibly E to me
Will do! Thanks
A big hello from Sweden, up in Northern Europe! One question, or maybe material for a video. You told us before that you use fir marine plywood but I'm not finding that over here, only teak and other expensive/exclusive materials. I do find construction plywood made of fir in a quality called K20/70 or something like that. What's the difference and why can't I use construction plywood in a boat build?
We love Sweden 🇸🇪 welcome to the channel! I am not familiar with the plywood grades in Sweden, but if it is a exterior grade plywood with good cosmetics and made of Fir, I would imagine it could work. I wish I could tell you for sure one way or the other. I will try to do some research on this subject for you guys and post in a video soon. Thanks for watching
What do you think of plain clear silicone caulking as glue?
I would not recommend clear silicone as a glue, it works just fine as a sealant in some applications. If you want to permanently glue something together I would recommend either west systems 610 or 3m 5200. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Hi Joe. Question: is it better to epoxy bond ply stringers to ply transom first, or glass transom first and then bond stringers to that? Thanks!
It can potentially be done either way. On my 29, I glassed in the transom core, then glassed the stringers to the transom. You just want to be sure that everything is very well sealed and water tight. Be sure to use plenty of fiberglass when tying everything together because the transom takes a lot of abuse. I will be starting the transom replacement on our 21 ft Blazer Bay very soon, so stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
Is it possible to compile a list of the materials you show , and the places where to buy them ?
Thanks great info.
Yes, most of our videos have links below the description and buying through those links helps support the channel. I will make sure we continue to do that for you guys. Hope this helps,and thanks for Watching!
Thanks I learned a lot from your video.
Hmmm, an idea: your camera operator covers the microphone when doing closeups of machine operations like the router?
I have actually started pulling down the volume in the edits when the power tools are running in the newer videos. Making the videos is always a work in progress. Thanks for watching and for the suggestion!
Does the mixing tube nozzle on the 6-10 need replacing after each use? I would imagine the epoxy would harden at the last inch or so of the tip.
Yes it does, but they are not very expensive. Great product overall.
have you ever experimented with making your own pourable transom? seacast is 5 min from my house im just being cheap, and i have an abundance of polyester resin. i know i cant just use it like normal, it'll get way too hot and probably crack all over. is there such a thing as a "slow" catalyst? i found filler materials like ceramic microspheres, to add to a cabosil, csm mush to make a seacast consistency...which happens to be polyester based. just wondering if you or your buddies ever tried such an experiment. i cleaned out the transom cavity from the top today and im left with a flawless fiberglass cavity, 5/16"+ thickness on the hull, and roughly 1/8" thick inner transom shell approx 24 x 24 x 1.125.
from watching your channel id say you'd probably lean toward cutting the inner shell off the transom cavity and laminating new ply and glass everything back vs a pourable solution
Yes, you are right in assuming that I would probably just replace the transom with a new core. But I also understand that there many applications that a pour able transom could be a great option. I would imagine that some combination of materials could work in place of seacast or one of the other pourable transoms, but I don't know if the money saved would be worth the risk of it not working in my opinion. I hope to do a video on one of these products in the future, so stay tuned!
Can you clarify weather you bond the stringer directly to the hull or do you put spacers (1/4') between then fillet and tab. I have heard both ways.