Thank you so much for doing this. I couldn't get my motor to run right, until I watched your video and realized I was putting the float needle clip on wrong.
For the Welch plugs, use a small sheet metal screw. Tap and turn it a few times into the plug. Make sure the screw goes in a little crooked towards the choke side of the carb, so you don't damage the little holes in there. Keep turning the screw, and it will lift out the plug when it hits bottom. 😉
Very complete and clear instructions. You forgot to mention there is also a metering orifice plug in the bottom bowl that could need replacement. The acertne bath is indeed very very effective. Finally, Sierra parts are acceptable but oem BRP parts definately are better. Cheap chinese parts offered on Amazon are to be avoided.
That's interesting. I bought a 25hp 1978 evinrude and the guy said he rebuilt the carb. The motor bogs down and die after about 3-5 minutes of high speed run. I have not open the carb to look because I don't have a manual for the motor repair. Do you think it may be the case where he didn't replace that rubber O-ring mentioned in the poster's video around the 9:50 mark?
Couple questions….What side of the float bracket do you bend to adjust to level? Next, do the Welch plugs absolutely need to be changed and what’s the consequence of not changing them? Thanks in advance!!
Thanks for you help. Any idea about where to get an air filter that goes over the carborator where air intake is? My 1992 evinrude 25 horse didn't have one but based on the bolt holes I'm thinking there is supposed to be one there.
Interestingly, the later models didn’t have one. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1992&hp=25 Check out my carb rebuild video on a 1989 Evinrude 25 80s and 90s 25 Hp Johnson Evinrude Carburetor Rebuild th-cam.com/video/ONqNUTu48Kw/w-d-xo.html
What about the white plastic "bearing" that goes over the adjustment needle tip I didnt see you put yours in on the video and I cant seem to get mine to go in the hole
I have a 25hp Johnston (TJ25ELEID) with some motor issues. It's only going half speed and won't plane. It also sputters and turns off every once and a while. One mechanic told me I may have blew a cylinder but do you think it sounds carb related?
The omc 5.5 hp was unchanged for years. Then, in 1979, they decided to put a tiny little impeller in there, for some reason. Like what you would see on a 3hp yamaha. Tiny. I took one of those tiny setups off of a bad gearcase and installed it in a 1976 with no issues. It moved a lot of water. Then in 1980 they changed the whole design. I thought that was a strange thing.
The center tube that you took out by mistake miy 35hp has another tube inside it. My question is the tube is not perfectly straight. Is that normal? Motor still falls on it's face when under load. Put new fuel pump 1 coil and cleaned carb but did not take those 3 plugs out.do I really need to?
This is my question. Would love to know if you ever figured yours out. Why on earth is the tube inside of the tube bent like that and is that my issue?!
My 25 ho Evinrude also dies like you're explaining. I forgot to put the seal back over the center tube, and the needle inside the tube is not centered. I removed my tube and bent it gently so it's centered.
@@scotthughes2325 Coincidental that several users had a bent tube just like I do also on my carb. Im guessing it does not effect anything. Did your carb work fine before you bent that small tube?
i have a 25 hp 1982 johnson..the fuel hose from fuel pump to carb leaks at elbow no matter what i do. dont think is proper fuel line. what size would you recommend? can i get rid of elbow and go straight from fuel pump to carb?
I have the big metal plug at the very top and then the one inside the bow area, but missing one on side of carb instead I have two metal screen filter there, but a that normal?
I have a 1985 25hp Johnson . im having trouble finding a a slow speed needle for it, can you help? Also wondering how many turns out the high speed needle is set at. Thanks for the great vid buddy.
Hey, thanks for this - I am just working on an old Canadian Johnson 20hp, which is essentially identical, although humourously bilingual...the choke for example is labeled both "choke" and "etrangleur" which I think is literally "strangler". Anyway I found this useful and very clear. One thing I wondered, if you're monitoring the comments, is the role of the metal caps - are there valves etc behind them? Or was it just a convenient way to machine the castings, and they're replaced just in case of vaccuum leaks around the edges? Anyway rebuilding it this afternoon and sure appreciated seeing it done firsthand, and putting all the links in for everyone is really helpful. Great video. And now, on to the tune/set video!
At 9:47 of the video he states he’s not sure about installing that gasket. That’s the wrong gasket on a 1988 25HP Evinrude. You absolutely need that gasket, the motor won’t run at high end without it. It’s part #7 in this diagram: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=25&model=E25ELCCM&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Carburetor Save yourself a month and install it!
Is there supposed to be a spring between the slow speed needle valve knob and the carb to keep the valve from backing itself out? That's exactly what mine did....that needle valve had backed itself out almost 3" and the motor would not run. I did a whole bunch of stuff before I realized how far out that valve was. When I tightened it back in, and then backed it off just 1.5 turns, BAM...fired right back up. While running though, that needle valve just backs out and backs out.
That’s what that retaining ring is for. In the video he opts to use the factory plastic one because it’s not broken but the newer style ones are rubber and make a nice tight fit that surely won’t allow it to back out like you’re saying is happening
At 3:15 or so you say you dont have to remove that nozzle but then you cut to a shot where it is removed? What happened? Should use gasket sealer around the metal caps before you knock them in?
Removing it was a mistake I made and an unnecessary part of the process for this carburetor. For some smaller carburetors, e.g. 6 or 10 hp, you would need to remove it (as I have done in other videos). The nozzle has a rather large inner diameter that wouldn't trap small debris. You could easily clean it out with acetone or carb cleaner and compressed air. Also, the nozzle doesn't screw in rather it is a press fit so its somewhat of a pain to remove. It was a mistake I could've prevented if I was paying a little more attention. If you end up removing it you will notice that the end that sticks inside the carburetor has a chamfered edge. Make sure when you reinstall it that the chamfered edge faces to the rear of the carburetor. Regarding the gasket sealer, I wouldn't do it at all but if you insist I would only do it after you tap the caps in. You need to make sure you don't get any on the BOTTOM side since that will easily clog the ports.
@@thisoldoutboard When you say "faces to the rear" do you mean facing the inlet of the carb or the outlet, as in the video its facing the inlet. Cheers
Nice video. Is there a cover that goes in front of the throttle body where that long bolt is sticking out from? I bought a 2000 Johnson 25hp and the throttle body is out in the open like that.
i have an '85 evinrude, and it's never had an airbox on the carb. went to a shop and tried to get one, he didn't show anything, we went and looked at his yard of outboards, and couldn't find one. mine's never had one, and has run just fine, so, i'll just continue that way.
I see that you had a fuel needle clip for the rebuild, but it wasn't originally there. My carbs don't have a clip and the needles don't have a groove for a clip to sit in (like your original needle doesn't). I am so confused. Should there be a clip?
Hi there. I have a 25 horse johnson. When I first get to the river it runs fine. I stop fish a while. Go to crank up. And nothing. Once I get home it fired up. I can be running wide open and it will cut off like you hit the kill switch too. I put new coils. New fuel pump . changed plugs. Its getting fire. Its like its flooding itself. Any suggestions. Thanks.
A bad needle valve, punctured float, or incorrect float setting could cause it to flood on you. If it dies on you intermittently then that sounds like you may have a kill switch wire that goes up to the ignition plate worn and is hitting the chassis causing it to ground out and kill the spark. That sounds like an electrical issue.
@@thisoldoutboard well when I bought the boat. It was advertised as 25 horse. Its camo all over. It might be 35 Johnson. But I'm pretty sure its no bigger that that. And pretty sure not smaller than a 25. I will look on case today for Number. Thanks so much.
OEM is 0332917 but it was replaced by 0432761 I found one by searching for 332917 on eBay here - ebay.to/2INPhb4 Sometimes taking the 0 off the front of the OEM number find the part on eBay
I replaced the gaskets and float and needle valve on my 1969 25 hp evinrude. It will idle fine but will not run at full idle any ideas?... is it because I didnt soak it in acetone?
So my 6hp carb had a hole drilled in to the body where the slow needle valve should seat. It must have snapped previous and owner tried to drill it out. Anyway it would not idle at all. It runs ok if a bit lean with the welch plug inserted. I drilled a tiny hole into the welch plug and the engine now idles much, much better. I know this is a bit of a cowboy fix but with the needle jet wound in as far it will go to block up most of the drilled hole combined with the tiny hole in the welch plug, it now runs fine. Will this damage the engine in any way? Sort of achieves the same thing but through a different method. Thanks.
It could let in small dirt debris or water. Any time you do a mod like that you run the risk of damage. You just have to figure out your risk-to-reward cost. Can you not find another carb on eBay?
Grady this is a breakdown of the carb. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1977&hp=25&model=25702H&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Carburetor
Hello my friend. I think I need to replace my low speed needle and all of my tags on my motor has rusted or fallen off. I believe my motor is a 25 horse power 1974 Do you have any recommendations for me to further figure out what your my motor is and tell me what low speed needle I need?
What I wanted to comment is that my engine jhonson 25hp year 1999 consumes me 20 liters of fuel per hour. which regulation could be made since it has only one carburetor
Derli I’ve never run into that issue. My old johnson 25 got about 5 miles per gallon of fuel. Which I though was reasonable. It would push my boat about 20 miles per hour. First step I would think in your situation is to make sure the air filter (if it has one) is clean, spark plugs are not fouled, and the carburetor tune settings are correct. The link to the carburetor settings is in the video description.
Please know what you're doing before making a video. It's not an o ring that goes on the pick up tube. It's a gasket. You forgot to remove and inspect the highspeed orifice in the carburetor bowl. If partially or totally blocked, motor will die upon acceleration. Also inspect the slowspeed circuit holes under the top expansion plug. Any little piece of debris can block one or more of these pin holes causing spit back at idle. Use compressed air to clear all holes after cleaning and look through them to be sure they're clean. Never mind. Maybe the folks that go through their carburetor(s) by this video will bring them to my shop afterwards. Peace :)
@@thisoldoutboard These carburetors are 90% like the carbs on a 3 cylinder 70 hp, etc. If you miss something, (especially blocked high speed orifice) you can easily burn up a cylinder in the powerhead.
So I have a 1981 25hp johnson .. I inspected the high speed orifice and thoroughly cleaned it and used a flash light to make sure it was good. Is there supposed to be a removable orifice hole or air hole for the low speed? I could not see or tell if there was one.. but I thoroughly cleaned it, used a guitar string to gently push and wiggle around in that small pin hole .. then sprayed carb cleaner through it . Also there are three pin holes behind the far buttfly valve that also need thoroughly cleaned.
The nozzle is not supposed to be removed....how did you even do it? Also, the emulation tube that is inside of it is missing. I assume you ruined it and decided not to explain it. Carburator is no good as I see it.
Thank you so much for doing this. I couldn't get my motor to run right, until I watched your video and realized I was putting the float needle clip on wrong.
For the Welch plugs, use a small sheet metal screw. Tap and turn it a few times into the plug. Make sure the screw goes in a little crooked towards the choke side of the carb, so you don't damage the little holes in there. Keep turning the screw, and it will lift out the plug when it hits bottom. 😉
Very complete and clear instructions. You forgot to mention there is also a metering orifice plug in the bottom bowl that could need replacement. The acertne bath is indeed very very effective. Finally, Sierra parts are acceptable but oem BRP parts definately are better. Cheap chinese parts offered on Amazon are to be avoided.
Very instructive and easy to follow.
Slow speed needle is out 1 1/2 turns from a gentle seat, that’s on my 1988 25 HP Evinrude.
Thanks very helpfull.Mike from Michigan
Yes the high end gasket inside the carb is a must with out it, the motor will bog and doe when accelerating.
That's interesting. I bought a 25hp 1978 evinrude and the guy said he rebuilt the carb. The motor bogs down and die after about 3-5 minutes of high speed run. I have not open the carb to look because I don't have a manual for the motor repair. Do you think it may be the case where he didn't replace that rubber O-ring mentioned in the poster's video around the 9:50 mark?
Good video clear instructions
My 73 Johnson has a jet in the bowl behind the bowl drain plug. Also 25hp. The Evrudes are different,without the long low speed needle
Couple questions….What side of the float bracket do you bend to adjust to level? Next, do the Welch plugs absolutely need to be changed and what’s the consequence of not changing them? Thanks in advance!!
Enjoyed the video! Thanks
Do you have to remove the metallic plugs or can you leave them in.
Good day, awesome video. So I need a new needle valve I have a 25hp model # F25RESB. So I’m looking for the part #. Thank you
Thanks for you help. Any idea about where to get an air filter that goes over the carborator where air intake is? My 1992 evinrude 25 horse didn't have one but based on the bolt holes I'm thinking there is supposed to be one there.
Interestingly, the later models didn’t have one.
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1992&hp=25
Check out my carb rebuild video on a 1989 Evinrude 25
80s and 90s 25 Hp Johnson Evinrude Carburetor Rebuild th-cam.com/video/ONqNUTu48Kw/w-d-xo.html
How many turns back from bottom on the low speed needle?
1.5
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 depending on model. the 35's are 1 1/4
What about the white plastic "bearing" that goes over the adjustment needle tip I didnt see you put yours in on the video and I cant seem to get mine to go in the hole
Having same issue, did you figure out a solution?
Samuel Hall no I just ended up reusing the old one, I’m sure It’s something simple tho lol
I have a 25hp Johnston (TJ25ELEID) with some motor issues. It's only going half speed and won't plane. It also sputters and turns off every once and a while. One mechanic told me I may have blew a cylinder but do you think it sounds carb related?
Try disconnecting the rectifier, and try it again.
Could I get the part number for this carburetor kit you used in the video please? Thank you 😊 p.s love your videos they are extremely helpful!!
Is that lil clip nessasery on the float I opened mine and it dont have that
Thank you!
Actually the 19-25 h were made from 56-76. In 77 the 35hp had a black harness plug. It was a one off only in 78 the red plug came out.
The omc 5.5 hp was unchanged for years. Then, in 1979, they decided to put a tiny little impeller in there, for some reason. Like what you would see on a 3hp yamaha. Tiny. I took one of those tiny setups off of a bad gearcase and installed it in a 1976 with no issues. It moved a lot of water. Then in 1980 they changed the whole design. I thought that was a strange thing.
How do you set the low speed screw
What is the brass nozzle he said don't remove? Mine needs to be replaced, and I can not find the part number
Mine has 2 carbs on a 40 horse is it two 20 horses or two 40 horses?
How do you just adjust the float on a freshly rebuilt carburetor for a 77 Johnson 25
The center tube that you took out by mistake miy 35hp has another tube inside it. My question is the tube is not perfectly straight. Is that normal? Motor still falls on it's face when under load. Put new fuel pump 1 coil and cleaned carb but did not take those 3 plugs out.do I really need to?
This is my question. Would love to know if you ever figured yours out. Why on earth is the tube inside of the tube bent like that and is that my issue?!
My 25 ho Evinrude also dies like you're explaining. I forgot to put the seal back over the center tube, and the needle inside the tube is not centered. I removed my tube and bent it gently so it's centered.
@@scotthughes2325 Coincidental that several users had a bent tube just like I do also on my carb. Im guessing it does not effect anything. Did your carb work fine before you bent that small tube?
i have a 25 hp 1982 johnson..the fuel hose from fuel pump to carb leaks at elbow no matter what i do. dont think is proper fuel line. what size would you recommend? can i get rid of elbow and go straight from fuel pump to carb?
I have the big metal plug at the very top and then the one inside the bow area, but missing one on side of carb instead I have two metal screen filter there, but a that normal?
I have a 1985 25hp Johnson . im having trouble finding a a slow speed needle for it, can you help? Also wondering how many turns out the high speed needle is set at. Thanks for the great vid buddy.
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1985&hp=25&model=J25ECOC&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Carburetor
Gently seat it then back it out 1.5 revolutions
Hey, thanks for this - I am just working on an old Canadian Johnson 20hp, which is essentially identical, although humourously bilingual...the choke for example is labeled both "choke" and "etrangleur" which I think is literally "strangler". Anyway I found this useful and very clear. One thing I wondered, if you're monitoring the comments, is the role of the metal caps - are there valves etc behind them? Or was it just a convenient way to machine the castings, and they're replaced just in case of vaccuum leaks around the edges?
Anyway rebuilding it this afternoon and sure appreciated seeing it done firsthand, and putting all the links in for everyone is really helpful. Great video. And now, on to the tune/set video!
The second guess; casting. They're just like tiny freeze plugs.
At 9:47 of the video he states he’s not sure about installing that gasket. That’s the wrong gasket on a 1988 25HP Evinrude. You absolutely need that gasket, the motor won’t run at high end without it. It’s part #7 in this diagram:
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=25&model=E25ELCCM&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Carburetor
Save yourself a month and install it!
Rich, thanks that is the problem with my OMC 25hp Johnson, thank you for figuring out the mystery for me!
Is there supposed to be a spring between the slow speed needle valve knob and the carb to keep the valve from backing itself out? That's exactly what mine did....that needle valve had backed itself out almost 3" and the motor would not run. I did a whole bunch of stuff before I realized how far out that valve was. When I tightened it back in, and then backed it off just 1.5 turns, BAM...fired right back up. While running though, that needle valve just backs out and backs out.
That’s what that retaining ring is for. In the video he opts to use the factory plastic one because it’s not broken but the newer style ones are rubber and make a nice tight fit that surely won’t allow it to back out like you’re saying is happening
At 3:15 or so you say you dont have to remove that nozzle but then you cut to a shot where it is removed? What happened? Should use gasket sealer around the metal caps before you knock them in?
Removing it was a mistake I made and an unnecessary part of the process for this carburetor. For some smaller carburetors, e.g. 6 or 10 hp, you would need to remove it (as I have done in other videos). The nozzle has a rather large inner diameter that wouldn't trap small debris. You could easily clean it out with acetone or carb cleaner and compressed air. Also, the nozzle doesn't screw in rather it is a press fit so its somewhat of a pain to remove. It was a mistake I could've prevented if I was paying a little more attention. If you end up removing it you will notice that the end that sticks inside the carburetor has a chamfered edge. Make sure when you reinstall it that the chamfered edge faces to the rear of the carburetor.
Regarding the gasket sealer, I wouldn't do it at all but if you insist I would only do it after you tap the caps in. You need to make sure you don't get any on the BOTTOM side since that will easily clog the ports.
@@thisoldoutboard When you say "faces to the rear" do you mean facing the inlet of the carb or the outlet, as in the video its facing the inlet. Cheers
Nice video. Is there a cover that goes in front of the throttle body where that long bolt is sticking out from? I bought a 2000 Johnson 25hp and the throttle body is out in the open like that.
i have an '85 evinrude, and it's never had an airbox on the carb. went to a shop and tried to get one, he didn't show anything, we went and looked at his yard of outboards, and couldn't find one. mine's never had one, and has run just fine, so, i'll just continue that way.
I have a 1973 and there is a “air box” on it more like a shield with a small filter.
I cant find a new needle valve for my 25hp evinrude. PN 0432761. Any recommendations?
Try’s searching “432761” on eBay
I see that you had a fuel needle clip for the rebuild, but it wasn't originally there. My carbs don't have a clip and the needles don't have a groove for a clip to sit in (like your original needle doesn't). I am so confused. Should there be a clip?
What time in the video are you referring to?
@@thisoldoutboard 8:30
PiperCub49 the clip doesn’t sit in a grove on the tang/tab. It just slides on it. The grove would be on the bent wire piece or clip
@@jrharrison3 I'm following you on that part. I am just wondering if it originally came with a clip connecting the two pieces or not.
PiperCub49 it does not
Do you have to use that clip for the float needle?
Yes
I have a 1978 Johnson 25R78C, Which needle part number will I need? Thanks!
I have a 1969 evinrude 25 hp model # 25902d where can I get a needle valve?
How many turns do you set the low needle at?
Mike G not knowing what model you have I'll point you to this site: goo.gl/S4qcDa it shows the settings for various types of older OMC carbs
Somewhere between 3/4 and 1 1/4 turns out. The little motors are very picky about small movement of the needle.
I do not have a low speed needle 1986 e25teeda I would know where to get it.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382087931711
Hi there. I have a 25 horse johnson. When I first get to the river it runs fine. I stop fish a while. Go to crank up. And nothing. Once I get home it fired up. I can be running wide open and it will cut off like you hit the kill switch too. I put new coils. New fuel pump . changed plugs. Its getting fire. Its like its flooding itself. Any suggestions. Thanks.
A bad needle valve, punctured float, or incorrect float setting could cause it to flood on you.
If it dies on you intermittently then that sounds like you may have a kill switch wire that goes up to the ignition plate worn and is hitting the chassis causing it to ground out and kill the spark. That sounds like an electrical issue.
I'm gonna have the carb rebuilt. I hope that helps. I can't find a new one. The # on carb is 324331. I don't know about this stuff. Lol
Do you know the model number or year of the motor? Model number should be on a plate on the side of the upper exhaust housing. You sure it’s a 25 hp?
@@thisoldoutboard well when I bought the boat. It was advertised as 25 horse. Its camo all over. It might be 35 Johnson. But I'm pretty sure its no bigger that that. And pretty sure not smaller than a 25. I will look on case today for Number. Thanks so much.
The carb number you gave seems to be for a 35 hp
J35rcrr. Where can I find the low speed needle that fits this model?
Marineengine.com
I can't find the right water pump kit
There doesn't seem to be a high speed needle valve?
What needle do I need for a 1971 Johnson 25 hp
Search eBay for 0314691 or 314691
Hi what brand acetone do you buy from Walmart? I am pretty clueless. Please help!
Just any brand
@@thisoldoutboard I think he was being a rube
Need the needle valve part number for a 1988 Evinrude 25 HP. Model E25ELCCM
OEM is 0332917 but it was replaced by 0432761
I found one by searching for 332917 on eBay here - ebay.to/2INPhb4
Sometimes taking the 0 off the front of the OEM number find the part on eBay
1958 35 HP johnson super seahorse - what kit?
Sierra 18-7010 on Amazon here amzn.to/2sfTSsA
Parabéns
I replaced the gaskets and float and needle valve on my 1969 25 hp evinrude. It will idle fine but will not run at full idle any ideas?... is it because I didnt soak it in acetone?
Your fuel pump old? Check your butterfly connections
So my 6hp carb had a hole drilled in to the body where the slow needle valve should seat. It must have snapped previous and owner tried to drill it out. Anyway it would not idle at all. It runs ok if a bit lean with the welch plug inserted. I drilled a tiny hole into the welch plug and the engine now idles much, much better. I know this is a bit of a cowboy fix but with the needle jet wound in as far it will go to block up most of the drilled hole combined with the tiny hole in the welch plug, it now runs fine. Will this damage the engine in any way? Sort of achieves the same thing but through a different method. Thanks.
It could let in small dirt debris or water. Any time you do a mod like that you run the risk of damage. You just have to figure out your risk-to-reward cost. Can you not find another carb on eBay?
rocket city motors I have placed a small fine filter over the very small hole. Can't find a replacement carb anywhere. Thanks.
Well that’s a clever fix. Thanks for sharing
rocket city motors I will let you know if it's a clever fix after I have used it a few times. 😂😂
Son lol please tell me where to find this and a water pump rebuild kit it
tks
no jets inside the carburetor????
Grady this is a breakdown of the carb.
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1977&hp=25&model=25702H&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Carburetor
Hello my friend. I think I need to replace my low speed needle and all of my tags on my motor has rusted or fallen off. I believe my motor is a 25 horse power 1974 Do you have any recommendations for me to further figure out what your my motor is and tell me what low speed needle I need?
I need low speed needle 1983 evinrude 25hp
thisoldoutboard.com/easily-find-parts-for-old-outboards/
☝🏻that’s how I would go about it
What I wanted to comment is that my engine jhonson 25hp year 1999 consumes me 20 liters of fuel per hour. which regulation could be made since it has only one carburetor
Derli I’ve never run into that issue. My old johnson 25 got about 5 miles per gallon of fuel. Which I though was reasonable. It would push my boat about 20 miles per hour.
First step I would think in your situation is to make sure the air filter (if it has one) is clean, spark plugs are not fouled, and the carburetor tune settings are correct. The link to the carburetor settings is in the video description.
I cleaned well and blown and the only regulation that it has is because I screw the only screw that there is and I took it out 2 vuetas.
since thank you very much
I have a 1982 Johnson 25hp what needle valve is that and where can I get one?
a 1982 Johnson 25 Hp needle valve is part number 432761 and can be found on eBay here ebay.to/2KwlKA2
You forgot to clean your high-speed jet out
I have a jhonson 25hp is well but consumes me almost 20 lts that I can asere year 1999 that chiquer takes
No comprende
Isn't there supposed to be a low speed needle valve bearing in that carburetor?
1980 25hp evinrude needle which 1
388885 - NEEDLE VALVE,SLOW SPEED
Please know what you're doing before making a video. It's not an o ring that goes on the pick up tube. It's a gasket. You forgot to remove and inspect the highspeed orifice in the carburetor bowl. If partially or totally blocked, motor will die upon acceleration. Also inspect the slowspeed circuit holes under the top expansion plug. Any little piece of debris can block one or more of these pin holes causing spit back at idle. Use compressed air to clear all holes after cleaning and look through them to be sure they're clean. Never mind. Maybe the folks that go through their carburetor(s) by this video will bring them to my shop afterwards. Peace :)
Thanks. I can tell you are a very kind person...
@@thisoldoutboard I'm sorry. Love ya man :)
@@thisoldoutboard These carburetors are 90% like the carbs on a 3 cylinder 70 hp, etc. If you miss something, (especially blocked high speed orifice) you can easily burn up a cylinder in the powerhead.
So I have a 1981 25hp johnson .. I inspected the high speed orifice and thoroughly cleaned it and used a flash light to make sure it was good. Is there supposed to be a removable orifice hole or air hole for the low speed? I could not see or tell if there was one.. but I thoroughly cleaned it, used a guitar string to gently push and wiggle around in that small pin hole .. then sprayed carb cleaner through it . Also there are three pin holes behind the far buttfly valve that also need thoroughly cleaned.
The nozzle is not supposed to be removed....how did you even do it? Also, the emulation tube that is inside of it is missing. I assume you ruined it and decided not to explain it. Carburator is no good as I see it.