Don’t forget about the o-ring that attaches your oil heat exchanger to the housing. It’s gets hard and cracks and blows out and will empty your oil pan in less than a minute on the highway.
Just bought a mk4 with an ajq swap from a TT. neat little motor. It is pretty easy to work on. I also run turbododge 8v's. also a neat motor. Non interference. :O)
You forgot my 2004 VW Passat 1.8T Four Motion 5-Speed Wagon. 😉 All good tho. The 2 years my exact make and model about 7k +/- where made... Always good to replace the timing belt and water pump at the same time. Timing belt goes wrong big problems.
I remember that old vw / audi engines .Peoples have a lot problems with them .All time have to fix something and in that time was very expensive . It seems that engine is one great shit .😂Good for mechanicers 😂
I have a MK4 1.8t Jetta , if my cam chain tensioner is going out, would that cause an ugly noise? I can’t seem to find out what’s wrong with my car. Because the noise only happens when I first turn it on, then it goes away after RPMs go ip
Since 3 month have milky oil in my 1.8T AWT engine. I didnt missing any coolant and also super clean my coolant. If its would be coolant leak,headgasket then I think in 3 month should be missing.Do not overheat even if I driving long 3500rpm+.Everythink looks,feel fine.I driving 2x20km a day minimum around 800km/month.Anybody knows why have water/humidity in my motor oil?
1: The car has two sides, left and right. You started from the right, not the left side. I've had to wait for parts several times when the custommer called in wanted to change their left headlight or whatever, but it was the other left headlight. 2: You forgot to mention the fuse box over the battery. That is a very common failure point on these cars.
14:10 dramatic wrong level of colling liquid. That can broke engine a presure when its hot can break hoses or coolant cap. Not do this with any vag engine
no it wont. on these cars the maximum level is slightly over the half of the resevoir. even if the max level is marked differently. my 99 tt has a original resevoir, and there the max level marking is above the middle on the top side. although its slightly too high, but it shouldnt cause issues
I am getting readings for a misfire on all 4 and bank 1 says it’s retarded. I don’t know how to contact you guys for more information but I have replaced the coils, plugs, fuel filter. Should I get the camshaft position sensor next?
I had audi b7 convertible 2.0tfsi engine is problematic. Oil consumption, carbon built up, airbag igniter cannot be fix even bypass the yellow wire under seat. Camchain tensionaire issue, coolant flange, oil leak in vacuum pump, air fuel mixture issue complete disaster of your pocket. If you can fix your self is fun you can save expensive labor cost.
Engine Head can be broke. valves seats can broke but not with only 371kkm. Second problem with all vag its oil piston rings. If your engine begin consumpt oil but not leave blue smoke its can be oil into cyl. Another problems a valve sealants. Of course flexible exhaust pipes is broken in vag
I've had this car since 2016 with 100k, At 188k now and its been a nightmare the first two years. Fought each of these incidents 1 by 1 till i got till 140k, got it tuned, and its been a great, fun daily driver for the past few years with out a hiccup!
One of my favorite 4-bangers. Most of the factory weaknesses have been addressed by the aftermarket, and it's extremely easy to work on. And from a performance standpoint, iron block with closed deck design and really good knock management means they're really hard to blow up once rods (and maybe head bolts) are upgraded.
When this engine start in europe everyone said "its turbo its unreliable" today its better than any tsi engine and more reliable than old natural aspiration vag engines
@@tiko4621 Direct injection-related carbon issues, water pump assembly failure, cam followers and high-pressure (cam driven) fuel pump is the culprit in the FSI and early TSI engines of that era.
as a owner of one, i can say, good guide. nearly every coolant hose bursted on my 99 tt and the thermostat housing leaked. i have a whole aluminum kit for every flange that is plastic by default. vacuum hoses broke, coils werent bad, but replaced them with tsi coils, dipstick is still ok, tho have seen it fail on other engines. valve cover leaaks a little bit on the back side, have a new one laying around, tho might replace the timing chain gasket as you suggested with it. timing belt is now only 3 years old and about 12k km in, so thats ok. also turbos and manifolds are common issues. both had heatcracks on my car. solution: sport cat and better flowing exhaust to reduce back pressure and EGTs. German manufacturer "friedrich motorsport" has a whole exhaust for it in their program in 3 inch diameter and sport cat and TÜV certified, so street legal in the eu.
@@LcFan96 i had one b7 convertible, all u mentioned is all true another common issue is airbag igniter electrician already bypass the airbag igniter under seat from time to time it pop up in dash light and the only solution is to keep deleting using obd vag. Also oil consumtion issue. My Local mechanic check compression test is all good. He reconcon turbo cartridge need to replace or need to modify or change the oil feed hose oil restrictor banjo bolt
This looks like much, but, to be honest many are just age related. I would rather have faulty hoses, pipes etc, than faulty timing chains, giudes, metal filings in the oil filter, massive oil consumption like other engines develop. I had a 225 TT and did all of these items on it and it was a doodle and a pleasure, instant gratification. I sold the car at 167k and it was still going strong. With a remap on it was dino'd 🦖 at just over 250hp.
Nice video can you make a short video about replacing the secondary vacuum pump bolted underneath the subframe toward the rear and removing the vacuum booster hose from that and how to disconnect the plug??
great info as always. I would point out that the AWD engine family i think the timing belt is recommended to be replaced at 60k miles. With these being interference engines it's too risky to try and squeeze extra miles out rather than perform the service.
Based on my decades of experience with these engines, the timing belt itself isn't the issue. The OEM water pump with the plastic impeller usually reaches it's failure point on or before 60K miles. Using the aftermarket water pump with the metal impeller will extend the timing belt service interval to 75 - 80K.
In Europe this engine was used, in the 180bhp form, for a VAG owned marque called Skoda Octavia VRS which was a very reasonably priced family saloon and somewhat rarer estate (or combi as Skoda called it) or wagon as you call them. Easily remapped to 200bhp and 250 ftlbs, this makes a fairly rapid car due to it's 3000 pound weight. Mine is the very last year they marketed the Mk 1 body shell and is starting to appreciate in value along with very cheap spares cost..... I love it !
Another 2 common faults to look out for is a cracked sump due to the low position and also the dipstick tube losing brittle parts into the sump and blocking the oil pickup causing the oil light to come on. Checking the oil and seeing plenty of oil makes you think the oil pump failed until you take the sump off and see the issue. I've had both issues over the years on several 1.8T's but the sump was the most common, its quite fragile.. Liquid metal after draining the oil fixed the problem until I've get another sump to swap over. Then it's a check in the pickup and a look in the sump for any sparkles..
TT clubsport, very rare car. Also he mentioned that the first car with this engine was Golf mk4 but, actually it was A4 back in 1993 or 1994, couple years before Golf. Anyway he definitely knows more about this engine then me 🙂
I need help, please. I have A4 B6 1.8T. Want to Audi Service and they made diagnosis that camshaft sensor is done. Car is in kinda limp mode, has really no power and stutters on mid rpms(around 3000-4000). Also wont start on first try, I have to try 5-6 times to start it. I've changed MAF and the Camshaft sensor but still nothing
I was able to replace the thermostat on my '03 Beetle Turbo S with just a 6 inch wobble extension- I don't think removal of the vacuum hoses and other assemblies is necessary to complete that job.
Just hopped right over the poorly Grounded under size wire gauged High Power ,Battery Top Fuse Panel that runs basically every electrical component in the engine bay, dash, cabin and the charging system in the car that likes to melt, or catch on fire!?😂😂😂 I thought for sure you were gonna say that, when you started talking about the “battery box” … good content but that was a swing and a miss for sure! 😂
Sooooooo....everything breaks, got it. I just got a mk4 about 2 months ago and i have been constantly dealing with bs. This video is making me think i should cut my losses and run
Hey man, i had my timing belt snap, ad i changed every component from the valves to the tensioner as well as the cam sesor but i get this error 16727, which basically says "camshaft position sensor: signal too high", is it my timing or sensor?
Iv got the golf mk4 AGU from 1999 and have the original S3 coils K04-001-XL 660CC injectors the older injectors cups are plastic in the inlet manifold 2 of mine were weeping bought 4 new1s good amount of grease and a nip they haven't blown by since curpra R fuel pump 4bar FPR stripped out 80% and its 1126kg with me in it full tank these engines are an absolute riot loads of fun and only thing I need is con rods and ur looking at another world of fun vacuum lines can be a pain in the arse. If u want quick 0-60 get the 5 speed box if u want higher top end get the 6 speed but there are 100s of ways ppl have tuned these engines and personally il never let mine go still going at 140.000 miles and I'm not easy on it.
You are simply spot on. My 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta 1.8t got 433000kms. I have gone through a lot of replacement parts over the years. This is the end result of owning old vehicles. Thanks for sharing an amazing educational video.
That engine is GREAT pain in ass anyway with 433××× or 150×××× and reperations/ service is very expensive . In Germany to change timing belt with water pump ,chain tensioner ,chain ,big service in 2010 coast 4500 € and a lot Germans throw that shit on garbage or sald för litlle peng .
Had 2 A4s both the 1.8 t never had a problem with either, first was 14 months old when I bought it with 79,000 miles just decent oil changes and if like me ya won't have a problem
I got a mk6 2017 jetta 1.8 and there’s a lot of stuff on these videos that aren’t the same. I’m somewhat new to working on cars and vw are more intricate, any videos on that would help
Iam working on my bettle 1.8 L turbo I was replacing the turbo and I need a picture diagram of the vacuum lines to make sure that I get it done right.and I want to replace the bad hoses with new ones
We don't have anything at the moment however we'll keep your recommendation in mind for the future. Were you looking for the 12v AFP engine specifically or the 24v BDF engine?
I have a problem on my 1.8 i have to rev it up for it to shift some times from 1st to second .wen warm runs fine sometimes is this a tranny problem cud it just b filter??i have a code that comes up help
@@fabium3410 Thank you, good to know. I have 180,000 miles on my car and have had NO ISSUES at all with this engine. My oil analysis every year or so comes back as being a 'like new' engine. I am very happy with this engine and it gives me terrific mpg's too!
@@aboyandhisdog im happy to hear. It is a good engine all things considered. My first car had a 1.8t (98 a4). Just replaced general wear items and it never gave me much trouble, well the turbo did go bad after 280k km (not sure in miles) but it was an okay job even for a novice diyer like myself. Now i drive another 1.8t powered vehicle which is a 99 tt 225 and its simply brilliant for what it is
You have an 058 engine, while (I think) all of the MK4 VW 1.8t's are 06A blocks (at least in the US). The later year (2000.5+) B5 (your Passat) and B6's are also 06A though, but your '99 would be a 058. A lot of the info in this vid only pertains to the 06A. Biggest difference between 058 and 06A short blocks is how the oil pump and water pump are driven. 058's uses an intermediate shaft to run the oil pump (instead of a sprocket directly off the crank snout like on 06A's), and the water pump is external and driven by the accessory belt (instead of internal and driven by the timing belt like on 06A's). Accessory bracket (ie; for the AC compressor, alternator) is completely different. Some different hose routing. Also 058's have no combi-valve or secondary air injection. Likely old-school cable throttle body instead of drive-by-wire, but if it's a later year '99, could be drive-by-wire. 058's all use narrow-band O2 sensors (outside of a conversion), while most but not all 06A's use wide-band. Different heads: you probably have the more desirable large-port AEB head but no VVT. Intake manifold obviously looks very different. In truth there's a dizzying array of changes to the 1.8T from car to car and sometimes year to year within the same model, but these are the bigger ones off the top of my head.
As soon as you mentioned corrugated hose I thought of the mk7 jetta with the 1.4t.....those n80 valves always replacing because of that crap plastic hose that loves to crack
1.8T (along with 2.7t) is an OG of VW tuning scene. While not being a VW fan, I do have a soft spot for these.
I'll even bring them my C5 A6 for the videos
Don’t forget about the o-ring that attaches your oil heat exchanger to the housing. It’s gets hard and cracks and blows out and will empty your oil pan in less than a minute on the highway.
You guys should do one of these for the VW/Audi AWN 4.2 V8
Thanks for the suggestion! Stay Subscribed, we just may!
I wanna say that am very grateful for your explanations 22:36
A little tip for thermostat i take out alternator as it makes it much easyer
That may work for some folks as well, I believe that method makes access to the housing bolts a bit easier.
My housing on my B5 Passat had a hairline crack in it. I disconnected the battery and removed the tbi hose. Easy peasy
@@coache1nine being a GM guy and Driving a 1994 GMC safari, i read TBI and jad to do a double take here LOL
Great video, I still love these engines 😀 You covered just about all of the little issues one could expect to have. #NEVARLOSE lol
Great service overview of the 1.8t! 75K for the timing belt sounds good.
Just bought a mk4 with an ajq swap from a TT. neat little motor. It is pretty easy to work on. I also run turbododge 8v's. also a neat motor. Non interference. :O)
JDM car fan but the 1.8t is one of my favorites. Favorite German engine. I want to be in another A4 with that engine.
You forgot my 2004 VW Passat 1.8T Four Motion 5-Speed Wagon. 😉 All good tho. The 2 years my exact make and model about 7k +/- where made... Always good to replace the timing belt and water pump at the same time. Timing belt goes wrong big problems.
Wasn’t there also a 240hp version in a late Audi TT?
A video on 1.9TDI ARL the pd150 version would be sick
I remember that old vw / audi engines .Peoples have a lot problems with them .All time have to fix something and in that time was very expensive . It seems that engine is one great shit .😂Good for mechanicers 😂
Idk shit about vw but I bought one and I'm trying to build it. Looking forward to more videos thanks 👍
hopefully youre motivated. lots of cool things to learn.
Please you didn't throw light on the Idle Air Control unit. Where exactly is the IAC located on B6 Audi A4 1.8T petrol engine? thanks
I have a MK4 1.8t Jetta , if my cam chain tensioner is going out, would that cause an ugly noise? I can’t seem to find out what’s wrong with my car. Because the noise only happens when I first turn it on, then it goes away after RPMs go ip
where is that link to the vacuum cluster hoses you mentioned @ 15:06
Since 3 month have milky oil in my 1.8T AWT engine. I didnt missing any coolant and also super clean my coolant. If its would be coolant leak,headgasket then I think in 3 month should be missing.Do not overheat even if I driving long 3500rpm+.Everythink looks,feel fine.I driving 2x20km a day minimum around 800km/month.Anybody knows why have water/humidity in my motor oil?
1: The car has two sides, left and right. You started from the right, not the left side. I've had to wait for parts several times when the custommer called in wanted to change their left headlight or whatever, but it was the other left headlight.
2: You forgot to mention the fuse box over the battery. That is a very common failure point on these cars.
this is why cars actually have a driver side and a passenger side lol
Hello. Can you explain is IT possible that Oil mixing with coolant liquid inside turbo K03?
That would be very unusual, but if it is truly happening inside the turbo, it would be an issue of the seals inside the turbo.
Odd refueling issue where it kicks off the fueling hose (like the tank is full) - charcoal canister? Any ideas?
Hi Peter, often times the charcoal canister is a culprit, damaged or bad vent tubes can also cause this as well.
My 2015 Golf started leaking oil out the cap and is getting progressively worse.
What about the tt240?
mk7 gti motor please!
MK4 Golf, Jetta, Beetle, Audi TT and, Mk1 Skoda Octavia/vRS, Seat Cupra/Cupra R, VWPolo 9n3, Bora, Passat… Oh I give up, over 16 different platforms, haha! 😂
14:10 dramatic wrong level of colling liquid. That can broke engine a presure when its hot can break hoses or coolant cap. Not do this with any vag engine
Exactly what i was thinking.
no it wont. on these cars the maximum level is slightly over the half of the resevoir. even if the max level is marked differently. my 99 tt has a original resevoir, and there the max level marking is above the middle on the top side. although its slightly too high, but it shouldnt cause issues
also little follow up: these resevoirs have a cap with an integrated valve that relases too much pressure via the little side opening on the resevoir.
Engine code AJQ
I am getting readings for a misfire on all 4 and bank 1 says it’s retarded. I don’t know how to contact you guys for more information but I have replaced the coils, plugs, fuel filter. Should I get the camshaft position sensor next?
Or a camshaft oil sensor.
You've forgotten the AMU 1.8 20 vt engine so......up to 229 bhp😬
Forgot pulleys
Great note!
I had audi b7 convertible 2.0tfsi engine is problematic. Oil consumption, carbon built up, airbag igniter cannot be fix even bypass the yellow wire under seat. Camchain tensionaire issue, coolant flange, oil leak in vacuum pump, air fuel mixture issue complete disaster of your pocket. If you can fix your self is fun you can save expensive labor cost.
So this is the 1.8t 1st Gen then? Or does this also apply to the 2nd gen 1.8t found in the mk7 like in my Alltrack?
This is the 20v 1.8t. Found in Mk4 VW, B5, B6 and Mk1 Audi TT. The newer 1.8ts are 16v and part of the EA888 engine family.
@@1PotatoeMasher1 So my 2014 VW Jetta 1.8t is a EA888 Gen 3?
@@davidm.1934 it sure is!
I have a 2004 Volkswagen Passat with the 1.8T
232,000 and it never fails if treated right!
Engine Head can be broke. valves seats can broke but not with only 371kkm. Second problem with all vag its oil piston rings. If your engine begin consumpt oil but not leave blue smoke its can be oil into cyl. Another problems a valve sealants. Of course flexible exhaust pipes is broken in vag
I've had this car since 2016 with 100k, At 188k now and its been a nightmare the first two years. Fought each of these incidents 1 by 1 till i got till 140k, got it tuned, and its been a great, fun daily driver for the past few years with out a hiccup!
That good to know, I am in the middle of fixing many things at the same mileage. Coolant leaks have been endless
Get those metal flanges right away. Especially the thermostat housing one.@@jimmcandrew3540
My 01 Jetta w/ 233k 1.8t Stage 2 tune for about 60k miles now still going strong. Still original turbo. Clutch and TB service coming up this summer.
One of my favorite 4-bangers. Most of the factory weaknesses have been addressed by the aftermarket, and it's extremely easy to work on. And from a performance standpoint, iron block with closed deck design and really good knock management means they're really hard to blow up once rods (and maybe head bolts) are upgraded.
When this engine start in europe everyone said "its turbo its unreliable" today its better than any tsi engine and more reliable than old natural aspiration vag engines
I own one of these and these engines are tanks if you properly maintain them.
@@StopTeoriomSpiskowymAMEN! 👌🏻
Have ~150K miles. What do you think would be your top 3 upgrades?
My 20th Anniversary has 263,000 miles on it and it’s still kickin! I love this engine!
Love to hear it!!
In short:
Lift the hood. Replace everything.
Pretty much 😂
Especially True if it's made of rubber or plastic
@@j.m.5995 replace it all with aluminium parts. costs like nothing and big returns
thank you for this video, I recently bought Audi A4 quattro 190hp with 330 000km, so this is really helpful now
This and 2.7t are ond of the best engines ever built
Don't forget the 1.9 tdi
Spoken like a true 1.8t/2.7t owner
@@tiko4621 b5 s4 here lol
Out of all the golf gti's I've ever owned the 1.8 t has been the most reliable. The Mk5 and 6 let me down badly.
How so?
@@tiko4621 cam follower and oil pick up pipe on Mk5 and cam chain and tensioner on Mk6. Cost me big time.
@@jasonjay7650 huh, so far my biggest problems on the 20v 1.8t have been simple sensor issues and vacuum/boost leaks Been pretty good to me thus far.
@@tiko4621 I had the 180bhp anniversary golf. Had it 5 years and only needed a new diverter valve.
@@tiko4621 Direct injection-related carbon issues, water pump assembly failure, cam followers and high-pressure (cam driven) fuel pump is the culprit in the FSI and early TSI engines of that era.
Love you fcp shout Milford ct the shit in the 203!
Not all 1.8t cars have check engine light, unfortunately
as a owner of one, i can say, good guide. nearly every coolant hose bursted on my 99 tt and the thermostat housing leaked. i have a whole aluminum kit for every flange that is plastic by default. vacuum hoses broke, coils werent bad, but replaced them with tsi coils, dipstick is still ok, tho have seen it fail on other engines. valve cover leaaks a little bit on the back side, have a new one laying around, tho might replace the timing chain gasket as you suggested with it. timing belt is now only 3 years old and about 12k km in, so thats ok. also turbos and manifolds are common issues. both had heatcracks on my car. solution: sport cat and better flowing exhaust to reduce back pressure and EGTs. German manufacturer "friedrich motorsport" has a whole exhaust for it in their program in 3 inch diameter and sport cat and TÜV certified, so street legal in the eu.
This is a headache😁
@@3kkk514 i wouldnt have one if i couldnt fix it myself
@@LcFan96 i had one b7 convertible, all u mentioned is all true another common issue is airbag igniter electrician already bypass the airbag igniter under seat from time to time it pop up in dash light and the only solution is to keep deleting using obd vag. Also oil consumtion issue. My Local mechanic check compression test is all good. He reconcon turbo cartridge need to replace or need to modify or change the oil feed hose oil restrictor banjo bolt
@@3kkk514 b7 use the 1.8tsi or not? Either way, if you cant afford one, dont buy one, and thats no offense, they need care
@@LcFan96 b7 2.0tfsi 200hp 147kw not a 1.8 tsi. I only use it for summer convertible. My main car commute to work is my 3 yrs old toyota landcruiser.
Crazy how much power you can make out out thes motors
That, my friends, is why you buy the VR6. Just kidding--it's honestly hard to tell sometimes if the good outweighs the bad on a given day...
I got a vr6 and 1.8t i like both of them for different things
I’ve had a 1.8t since 2004 and replaced just about everything in the last 20 years. Runs like a champ.
This looks like much, but, to be honest many are just age related. I would rather have faulty hoses, pipes etc, than faulty timing chains, giudes, metal filings in the oil filter, massive oil consumption like other engines develop. I had a 225 TT and did all of these items on it and it was a doodle and a pleasure, instant gratification. I sold the car at 167k and it was still going strong. With a remap on it was dino'd 🦖 at just over 250hp.
Nice video can you make a short video about replacing the secondary vacuum pump bolted underneath the subframe toward the rear and removing the vacuum booster hose from that and how to disconnect the plug??
I use shell 93 octane, 2001 Jetta 1.8 turbo, always in the garage, great car
great info as always. I would point out that the AWD engine family i think the timing belt is recommended to be replaced at 60k miles. With these being interference engines it's too risky to try and squeeze extra miles out rather than perform the service.
Based on my decades of experience with these engines, the timing belt itself isn't the issue. The OEM water pump with the plastic impeller usually reaches it's failure point on or before 60K miles. Using the aftermarket water pump with the metal impeller will extend the timing belt service interval to 75 - 80K.
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826or you could just change it every 60k as recommended and have peace of mind
In Europe this engine was used, in the 180bhp form, for a VAG owned marque called Skoda Octavia VRS which was a very reasonably priced family saloon and somewhat rarer estate (or combi as Skoda called it) or wagon as you call them. Easily remapped to 200bhp and 250 ftlbs, this makes a fairly rapid car due to it's 3000 pound weight. Mine is the very last year they marketed the Mk 1 body shell and is starting to appreciate in value along with very cheap spares cost..... I love it !
Yeah man i own a silver 1.8T 4x4 mk1 skoda octavia estate and if defo has surprised a few people! Absolutely love the car.
Another 2 common faults to look out for is a cracked sump due to the low position and also the dipstick tube losing brittle parts into the sump and blocking the oil pickup causing the oil light to come on. Checking the oil and seeing plenty of oil makes you think the oil pump failed until you take the sump off and see the issue. I've had both issues over the years on several 1.8T's but the sump was the most common, its quite fragile.. Liquid metal after draining the oil fixed the problem until I've get another sump to swap over. Then it's a check in the pickup and a look in the sump for any sparkles..
Great notes, sorry you had to endure that!
Could you do a diagnostic and maintenance guide for the 2.8L 12v and 24v VR6s?
The most powerful 1.8t was 240 hp on the tt sport
TT clubsport, very rare car.
Also he mentioned that the first car with this engine was Golf mk4 but, actually it was A4 back in 1993 or 1994, couple years before Golf.
Anyway he definitely knows more about this engine then me 🙂
All these videos just to hide the elephant in the room: what about the 850 season 2?????
Is this the same 1.8T 20V engine in my 2004 New Beetle Turbo?
Yes
Same engine code? Its the same. Different engine code it can be simmilar
@@StopTeoriomSpiskowym thank you!
Is there an upcoming video on the NA 2.5L 5cyl? I am in the market for a 2.5L JSW to mod and I feel this is an underappreciated motor.
We can assure you that we appreciate the underappreciated motor 😉
those are awesome engines, othwr than the vacuum pump oil leaks they're very solid
I need your help. I have a 2004 Jetta GLI with the 1.8 turbo I’m gonna send you a video and hopefully you can help me and get back to me.
Please don't hesitate to reach out to our team via email at Service@fcpeuro.com
Excellent videos, so informative
Same engine goes in Polo 9n3 GTI and GTI Cup edition
I just got my silver mk4 gti a few months ago
Движок Легенда 1.8 т 20 V 💪💪💪👍👍👍
lol. i own an 03 jetta with a 1.8t. I have fixed most of these problems, so i say you're right on the mark
I need help, please. I have A4 B6 1.8T. Want to Audi Service and they made diagnosis that camshaft sensor is done. Car is in kinda limp mode, has really no power and stutters on mid rpms(around 3000-4000). Also wont start on first try, I have to try 5-6 times to start it. I've changed MAF and the Camshaft sensor but still nothing
I was able to replace the thermostat on my '03 Beetle Turbo S with just a 6 inch wobble extension- I don't think removal of the vacuum hoses and other assemblies is necessary to complete that job.
Just hopped right over the poorly Grounded under size wire gauged High Power ,Battery Top Fuse Panel that runs basically every electrical component in the engine bay, dash, cabin and the charging system in the car that likes to melt, or catch on fire!?😂😂😂 I thought for sure you were gonna say that, when you started talking about the “battery box” … good content but that was a swing and a miss for sure! 😂
Sooooooo....everything breaks, got it. I just got a mk4 about 2 months ago and i have been constantly dealing with bs. This video is making me think i should cut my losses and run
Hey man, i had my timing belt snap, ad i changed every component from the valves to the tensioner as well as the cam sesor but i get this error 16727, which basically says "camshaft position sensor: signal too high", is it my timing or sensor?
Iv got the golf mk4 AGU from 1999 and have the original S3 coils K04-001-XL 660CC injectors the older injectors cups are plastic in the inlet manifold 2 of mine were weeping bought 4 new1s good amount of grease and a nip they haven't blown by since curpra R fuel pump 4bar FPR stripped out 80% and its 1126kg with me in it full tank these engines are an absolute riot loads of fun and only thing I need is con rods and ur looking at another world of fun vacuum lines can be a pain in the arse. If u want quick 0-60 get the 5 speed box if u want higher top end get the 6 speed but there are 100s of ways ppl have tuned these engines and personally il never let mine go still going at 140.000 miles and I'm not easy on it.
You are simply spot on. My 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta 1.8t got 433000kms. I have gone through a lot of replacement parts over the years. This is the end result of owning old vehicles. Thanks for sharing an amazing educational video.
That engine is GREAT pain in ass anyway with 433××× or 150×××× and reperations/ service is very expensive .
In Germany to change timing belt with water pump ,chain tensioner ,chain ,big service in 2010 coast 4500 € and a lot Germans throw that shit on garbage or sald för litlle peng .
Can i please ask you why my 1.8t bjx at full revs stutters sometimes, lambda sensors replaced. Fault code P3211 sometimes. Only when is does brbrbrbr.
When all my lights are off it's a good day. Love VW, if you don't like or know about working on cars this is not the brand or Era for you
Had 2 A4s both the 1.8 t never had a problem with either, first was 14 months old when I bought it with 79,000 miles just decent oil changes and if like me ya won't have a problem
I got a mk6 2017 jetta 1.8 and there’s a lot of stuff on these videos that aren’t the same. I’m somewhat new to working on cars and vw are more intricate, any videos on that would help
Iam working on my bettle 1.8 L turbo I was replacing the turbo and I need a picture diagram of the vacuum lines to make sure that I get it done right.and I want to replace the bad hoses with new ones
Hopfully you see this but I’ve got a leaky injector and I keep getting engine light and a p1128 fault code could that be the issue??
I would just mention little bit more about PCV hoses from block all the way up are very bad on them and normally falling apart causing issues
Looking for one of these videos on the VR6 from the same era!!
We don't have anything at the moment however we'll keep your recommendation in mind for the future. Were you looking for the 12v AFP engine specifically or the 24v BDF engine?
@@fcpeuro I have the 24v so that would be of most interest to me personally.
I have a problem on my 1.8 i have to rev it up for it to shift some times from 1st to second .wen warm runs fine sometimes is this a tranny problem cud it just b filter??i have a code that comes up help
Looking at a mk4 gti auto. Are they really hard to work on? And are they reliable? Any ideas tips o would appreciate it!
My Passat doesn’t have a timing belt. Did you mean the serpentine belt?
I loved how you showed a totally shagged timing belt.
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Excellent video. Thank you. What about the fuel filter?
The fuel filter is a regular maintenance item and should be replaced routinely.
Long video short.. there's alot of plastic..... it breaks qnd there's qlot of hoses that are rubber.... it cracks
I have a 1.8T in my '99 Passat. Is this the same engine just turned sideways? It looks similar but hard to tell for sure.
Yes.
Yes, depending on the model the 1.8t engine was either mounted transversely or (in the passat, a4, a6 and superb) longitudinally.
@@fabium3410 Thank you, good to know. I have 180,000 miles on my car and have had NO ISSUES at all with this engine. My oil analysis every year or so comes back as being a 'like new' engine. I am very happy with this engine and it gives me terrific mpg's too!
@@aboyandhisdog im happy to hear. It is a good engine all things considered. My first car had a 1.8t (98 a4). Just replaced general wear items and it never gave me much trouble, well the turbo did go bad after 280k km (not sure in miles) but it was an okay job even for a novice diyer like myself. Now i drive another 1.8t powered vehicle which is a 99 tt 225 and its simply brilliant for what it is
You have an 058 engine, while (I think) all of the MK4 VW 1.8t's are 06A blocks (at least in the US). The later year (2000.5+) B5 (your Passat) and B6's are also 06A though, but your '99 would be a 058. A lot of the info in this vid only pertains to the 06A. Biggest difference between 058 and 06A short blocks is how the oil pump and water pump are driven. 058's uses an intermediate shaft to run the oil pump (instead of a sprocket directly off the crank snout like on 06A's), and the water pump is external and driven by the accessory belt (instead of internal and driven by the timing belt like on 06A's). Accessory bracket (ie; for the AC compressor, alternator) is completely different. Some different hose routing. Also 058's have no combi-valve or secondary air injection. Likely old-school cable throttle body instead of drive-by-wire, but if it's a later year '99, could be drive-by-wire. 058's all use narrow-band O2 sensors (outside of a conversion), while most but not all 06A's use wide-band. Different heads: you probably have the more desirable large-port AEB head but no VVT. Intake manifold obviously looks very different. In truth there's a dizzying array of changes to the 1.8T from car to car and sometimes year to year within the same model, but these are the bigger ones off the top of my head.
you forgot the n80 purge valve evap leak problems. also saw a huge rip in that axle lmao but great video.
I need a diagram of vacuum lines for a 2000 vw bettle 1.8L turbo
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I miss my Jetta🥺. Ugly ass car but she got me places and handled my teenage driving
Good enough for me to subscribe… top to the point upload.😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀
As soon as you mentioned corrugated hose I thought of the mk7 jetta with the 1.4t.....those n80 valves always replacing because of that crap plastic hose that loves to crack
What do you think about the 1.5 tsi engine is reliable?
I've owned a 225 for 10+ years now. This is like a walk down memory lane
You are a very good and friendly teacher. Thanks for the video. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thank you very much!
It would be awesome if you guys did a turbo replacement video
Oil pickup pipe! Check your oil pick up pipes
Good point!
1.8T never lose. This dude is def from QUEBEC
Not forgetting on the list the VW Polo GTi 9n3 (BJX)
You should replace the G28 sensor (engine speed sensor) if your car is old. It caused my VW to stall while driving.
That is a great note, Leo!
youre amazing for staying on topic with strictly engine management.. couldn't help but notice that little ripped inner boot under there:(
I wanna say that am very grateful for your explanations