Couple of important points: 1. please note UV light does NOT kill viruses, but it the variant higher spectrum of UVC light where it is at least possible. UVC light is extremely hazardous - so its use is restricted and certainly not used in domestic appliances. 2. UV light does NOT kill all germs and bacteria
There is three types of UV lights a,b and c. uv-c which is a germicide light and it is dangerous to people,plants and animals. So if your going to use the light make sure your not exposed to the light. It is also a great way to sanitize the inside of the motor home just Make sure you have a timer or a off switch that can be switched off out side the vehicle.
Right you are Joe! This is why this light is enclose in a sealed canister and I clearly mentioned to not look at the light when I exposed it on the video. UV light is not actually visible light and what you are seeing is more or less like a florescent light that was added to the gas mixture so you can see it is operating. (Thus it lights up.) But you are correct and thanks for the additional notice on it! :)
Hi David, Thanks again for another great video. My park wifi setup works great!. I was wondering if this system could be setup with an inline flow detector like you did on your shower line to turn on your aqau hot. It could prevent the hot water issue in the drinking line as well as save a bit of electricity cost.
After some thought I guess a flow switch would need to be hooked up to a relay switch that would send power to the receptacle box the unit is plugged into.
Hello everyone, I don't watch every video, but, I'd love to. I enjoyed this very much to the point very clear " thank you" going to install UV light in my forced air house A/C system supply. Stuff being air born how small does the air filter work to may not be good enough. Be safe everyone
@@DavidBott Thanks David, it makes sense, which not many things do in these times... :) I have incorporated many of your ideas into our 5er and appreciate your videos!
Nice mod to your water system! Any issues with bulbs breaking while driving around? We just bought an Acuva system for drinking water that I haven't installed yet, but thinking about getting one of these for the whole rig too. Have you noticed any difference with cleanliness (and odor) of your black and gray tanks too?
Hi...Seeing I just installed it, I can not yet comment on how will it will hold up. So that is something we will know after we move from Burleson TX to Byron, NY which would be about a 24 hour trip. As far as Black and Gray tanks...this really would have no impact at all on the tanks seeing the tanks get the odor from your waist and things in it that is decomposing.
You want thater water to be as "clear" visually as possible so the light has the best chance at hitting the "bad stuff" to kill it. We are talking micro DNA stuff, so things, particles, can get into the way.
Hi David, Would it be a good idea to install a timer or better yet an on demand water flow sensor on the UV light so that the light is not continuously on and the water is not too hot initially in the AM as you say occurs now.
Loved this informative show about uv light and your water. With the fear out there now, I was wondering if any one has tried to developed a face mask that uses UV light to sterilize air coming in unlike the N95 or surgical mask that just filter air. I tried to look online for any type of item, but could not find any.
UV-C isn't very safe near skin or eyes There's a new type that's already being developed that's safe on skin and eyes called far-UV with a different wavelength but it's way too new that you won't find many products using it. Perhaps for the next pandemic it'll be out of developmental hell and a lot more widespread. The wands being made out of far-UV are way too big for now, they've still got to get them to a smaller size. Tried looking because I wanted to use my 3D printer to make some sort of mouth and nose cover and then retrofit a far-UV wand into it, but the idea fell apart when I realized how new the technology was.
Nice video Mr Bott. I'm wondering if it with the flow rate past the UV light is, I'm curious about this because I'm wondering if a delay circuit could be used to save bulb life.
It's actually recommended to leave the bulb on full time as it extends life compared to power cycling it frequently. I do have mine turn off with my 'sleep' home automation routine, then turn back on in the morning. But otherwise, each time the UV lamp is energized, it reduces its life a bit.
@@linuxkidd -. I know this is true with a filament based bulb I did not know it was true with this type of bulb. Automation cycling does sound like a better idea anyway.
In a Tiffin, the water that enters the coach goes right to the bypass valve for the fresh water tank first. If that is turned, the water is directed to fill the tank, if not turned, then it is sent on to the water filter and then into the coach. So the water that goes into the tank is not filtered in any way. When you call for water using the water pump it is pulled from the tank and then it is passed through the filter (and then the UV Filter if you added it.). This is one reason I have mine setup like I do as the water come right in off the hose reel and then to my filter system and then into the bypass valve. As such, all my water is filtered and softened before it goes into the frash tank. It only hits the UV when it comes out of the tank as I used the area where the normal filter is to plum it in. Hope that makes sense.
Great video and I like your set up on the coach. I have been researching which brand of UV to buy but my concern is will that sensitive bulb and casing break as the coach bounces down the roads (really poor highways out there). Do you feel the bulb or casing will break as a result?
I have not had any issues or concerns as the they are both inside and are quite tight. But yes the quartz tube were to break, that could then be an issue and thus having the filters after it would protect the rest of the coach. If the UV lamp was to break, it would stay inside the quartz tube thus not an issue. (The water is around the outside of the quartz tube, the UV lamp is inside it shining through it.)
@@DavidBott Agreed, but the quartz tube is also fragile. I contacted a manufacturer and he said several RVers now install these and has not heard of one breaking. I'm just expressing a concern with the "class 5 hurricane" bouncing on the roads. Thanks again for your response and video.
@@chuckpotter1209 Totally understood. We have crossed the country with it a few times, so far so good. The tube is tight in the chamber. All it can really do is move with the coach and the "hard" hits you feel in the coach is more so at the tire points with the impact. So not as jaring throughout the coach body. In any case...So far so good. :)
Hey Dave - thanks for another informative video. Have you ever done a video on the filtration system you installed that you referenced being on the other side of the coach? I would love to see what you did there and how it all works with this new system. Also, I’ve seen some people install one of these UV systems under the sink - any benefit/detriment from installing in further down the line like that? Thanks - Rob Carey
There are some videos on the water system I do think. (We have over 300+ on-line) The only reason maybe was space? As I would want process the water via UV as it comes in so the entire coach is protected...why protect just the sink after all? They also could have thought that 6 GPM flow is not enough...But most RV water pumps are only rated for 5 GPM anyway. But I surely would want to do as much as I can before it goes into the coach. Just released the blog post on our site that may offer more details. Here is the link to it... outsideourbubble.com/water-uv-sanitizer-for-rv-coach-or-home/
The frash tank get all the processing except for the UV. The UV is done for the tank AFTER it exits the tank as it needs to flow through the UV light before it get into the main part of the coach. Living full time, we still run enough water though the tank that it does not sit long enough to need to clean it often.
@@DavidBott Thanks David. We travel part-time for 5-7 months each year, typically broken up into 2-3 trips at least one month each. That said, do you think we would not have to sanitize our fresh water tank if we install a UV system between the fresh water tank and the input of the house water filter? (We also use a second filter right at the campground water connection.) Following typical sanitizing instructions, with my 100-gallon tank, I end up using 300 gallons of water in the process. That's not only wasteful but I don't want to dump that much water at a campground.
@@SRSnure IMHO, It all depends on how much you use the tanks and how often water is passing though it. You may use the RV 5 to 7 months, but are you using the tanks during that time or is the water in it just un case you need it? See my point. Even if I had full RO water in the tank, if it was not being used all the time, I would surely still clean it out once a year. What we do so we don't need to is to always use some of the water in the tank like when we shower, we can turn on the pump even if hooked up to water which will then pull water from the tank as well as increase pressure. When we get down to about 10%, we add water back in up to 40 or 50% and continue on. Doing something like this keeps more or less keep the water from stagnating. IMHO
I can't figure out a way on my Rockwood Ultralight where to tie into the water line with a UV filter in a way to get all water sources, city and fresh water tank to be forced through the UV filter. I see water lines running all over the darn place and I can't figure out a way that would hit all the water sources. My question is, with the proper fittings could I get this attached to my source hose after it goes through the clearsource filters?
Does your Rockwood Ultralight (I know nothing about them) have an onboard water filter that all your water goes through? If so, you would put this right off of the OUTPUT of that filter. If not, and you are using outside filters, then sure, I do not see why you could not add it in line before it goes inside your Rockwood Ultralight.
@@DavidBott I'm so new to this but I have something underneath in the storage area that is a clear container and when I turn on the water I see all types of debris stirring around in it. It's a clear container and about 8-10" in length. I"ve never even tried to see how it comes off because it's full of water.
@@strykerliker That is a filer holder that you would put a water filter in. Something like this... amzn.to/3bWsAhe You should have a tool that goes around the filter housing that you use to loosen and tighten it. Be sure the water is OFF when you do this and release pressure by opening a tap, then it will be easier to open. :)
@@DavidBott So right after that filter is where I would tie in the UV light filter? I know I"m being a PIA but can you tell me what the amp drawing is on most UV filters? The reason I ask is because I only have an outlet available that the water heater is plugged in to. Thanks for your quick help. My water tested positive for ecoli so I"m a bit freaked out.
@@strykerliker Yes, it would go after the OUT port of that filter housing. You will need to know how to do some plumbing. (But kind of not sure on that seeing you did not seem to know you had a water filter housing without a filter in it. ;)) The UV only draws 25 watts. So very low power use. If you really want protection, you may want to consider a water purifier. This you would install by your sink and would be used for all drinking water. ... generalecology.com/collections/marine-rv/products/420600 But I just looked up your RV and I read it has a "Water-Pur Filtration System"...So I would ask your dealer or the manufacturer about that and do some reseach before you spend $$$ to try to improve it. Good luck!
One would think though......the pond water circulates continuously 12 hrs at a time cycle or more. UV devices are sized to the pond capacity for not less than 1 full exchange per 3 hrs. In other words that water is exposed to a level of UV radiation (sized accordingly) for a period of at least 6-8 minutes (depending on flow rate )/ 12 hrs. Now the water sitting still in your sterilizer cylinder for a while is zapped of bacteria and viruses allegedly. But when you turn on the tap inside, and H20 is flowing past the UV bulb at {x gph) IDK the flow rate of your system, it is briefly exposed to UV just for a second or so, maybe less and never to return. So what then can be the efficacy of this device? Sounds like you bought into something here Dave
You really have no idea what you are speaking of and we are not talking POND WATER amounts of water. This is a low 6 GPM system meaning it will process 6 GPM flow rates if you are sending clear water thought it. Seeing that the water needs to pass from one end to the other all while going around a glass quartz tube, it will be expected to UV light. Seeing that a typical RV passes only 5 GPM and showers and other fixtures are even lower, this amount of UV light exposure is more than enough. I have used water and HVAC UV light for about 25 years, it is something I do know something about. UV light is not a "scam" etc, it is used in hospitals in their air ducts as well as ship water supplies to clean water.
@@DavidBott Alright then. Was just asking a question. I jest have a hard time believing that all bacteria and viruses can be destroyed by being exposed to UV light for a second or less......
@@bluestarindustrialarts7712 Hi...It's all good. Just remember, the tube is 23" long and with the quartz tube the UV lamp goes in this leaves only X space and the water needs to swirl around inside before it comes out and the UV tube is putting out a large amount of UV light energy. Seeing you are likely only moving 2 to 3 GPM, in most places in an RV, and it handles up to 6 GPM, then I think all should work as it suppose to. UV is used a lot. Hospitals are currently using UV chambers to sterilize used masks sadly enough. They are usually used to clean operating tools.
Lol, David, your killing me. That must be your favorite word 'Basically' lol. I've only watched the video for a minute or so and you've said it 4 times already. Basically, is a filler word. I'm just giving you a hard time don't mind me. Back to the video. :)
I have the FILL the time somehow "basically" as I try to think of what to say next. After all, I do most of these in one take. (I know you are just messing with me. All in good fun.)
Sounds more important than" uh " or "and". And I find you speaking fast. You have so much to share, that you can't wait. So excited you are. You are motivating. Thank you for your videos.
@@DavidBott David, JFYI, I have been following you guys the longest of any one on you-tube. I've learned a lot from you guys believe it or not. Keep up the good work.
Ok - don’t be spending a lot of time looking for that Elon Musk interview as it’s really hard to find out there. He may have been a little tipsy while on camera and if you look at the posting time I think I got that in right before midnight....April Fools! I can’t wait to hear pricing either...hope I got ya...hard to do in a place like this! Rob Carey
Would like to let you know that the RV/household grade UV isn’t what as perfect as advertised. I worked inspecting drinking water systems for a state agency for 20 years and have taken coliform, E-coli samples after these UV units and the bacteria can be so high the Bacti tests can’t even count those numbers went through the units. I also helped write the standards for UV systems for the state too because EPA didn't have any at that time, then they used ours to come up with the countries standards. The information you are giving is very misleading. What happens over time, a film builds up (minerals and bacteria) inside the water lines and inside the UV unit which blocks the UV light so it doesn’t work like it did when it is new. The ones in City water plants have a sleeve that slide down the quarts glass to remove this film and they also have sensors to measure the light frequencies to make sure it is working properly. The household type don’t have anything close and are not EPA approved even if it says it on the box.
While I agree with you, it is only up to a point. Yes, as mentioned you need to keep the quartz tubes clean. This should be done each 6 months by removing and cleaning with at least 70% Alcohol solution. Also, in our case, we filter and even soften the water before it enters into the UV chamber with the entire idea of having "clear" water going into it so it can work most effectively. UV Light does kill at the DNA level and does surely help. It is used in plants and hospitals around the world as I am guessing you likely know. But it is only one layer of protection. So I do not find the information I have presented as "very" misleading. But your info does reinforce the need to be sure to keep the quartz tube clean. Thank s Eric.
@@DavidBott Of course more layers of protection is the best and that is what most cities do throughout the treatment process. I was just referring to the UV treatment. For most people water softeners are not practical and they don't have room. Soften water is actually very corrosive and will leach out lead and copper (from the faucets). I bet your anode in the hot water heater doesn't last long either just for that reason. Most RV/household UV you get are self contained and can't be cleaned. You will never know when the bulb frequencies change, in other words start burning out. So it can give you a false sense of security. All I'm saying they are good for awhile and the reason EPA doesn't recommend them.
Hey @david Bott, got my UV light installed today. Your video was perfect. Thank you!
Welcome!
Thank you! I used these on my aquariums to kill viruses, bacteria and algae and I think amebas. I never had issues with my tanks. It worked.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
I have a mini battery powered one for backpacking and love it
Yes, those come in handy if hout hiking and are in need of water! :)
Couple of important points:
1. please note UV light does NOT kill viruses, but it the variant higher spectrum of UVC light where it is at least possible. UVC light is extremely hazardous - so its use is restricted and certainly not used in domestic appliances.
2. UV light does NOT kill all germs and bacteria
There is three types of UV lights a,b and c. uv-c which is a germicide light and it is dangerous to people,plants and animals. So if your going to use the light make sure your not exposed to the light. It is also a great way to sanitize the inside of the motor home just Make sure you have a timer or a off switch that can be switched off out side the vehicle.
Right you are Joe! This is why this light is enclose in a sealed canister and I clearly mentioned to not look at the light when I exposed it on the video. UV light is not actually visible light and what you are seeing is more or less like a florescent light that was added to the gas mixture so you can see it is operating. (Thus it lights up.) But you are correct and thanks for the additional notice on it! :)
David Bott it’s also bad for your skin. I wouldn’t be surprised if you have a burning smell on your hand.
@@joeburtnick1369 True...UV light is bad for skin, bit that little exposure to show it I am not at all worried about. Thanks for the concern.
Hi David, Thanks again for another great video. My park wifi setup works great!. I was wondering if this system could be setup with an inline flow detector like you did on your shower line to turn on your aqau hot. It could prevent the hot water issue in the drinking line as well as save a bit of electricity cost.
After some thought I guess a flow switch would need to be hooked up to a relay switch that would send power to the receptacle box the unit is plugged into.
It looks as if you used PEX crimps. Is there a reason you did not use SharkBite connectors? I am wondering which would be best for my set up. Thanks.
Good video David.
A flow activated switch would help increase life and keep your water cool.
Based on UV lights being a ballast type light, turning it off and on will actually reduce its lifespan. As such, it is recommended to keep them on.
Hello everyone, I don't watch every video, but, I'd love to. I enjoyed this very much to the point very clear " thank you" going to install UV light in my forced air house A/C system supply. Stuff being air born how small does the air filter work to may not be good enough. Be safe everyone
How about a flow switch that turns the light on when the water starts flowing?
Based on UV lights being a ballast type light, turning it off and on will actually reduce its lifespan. As such, it is recommended to keep them on.
@@DavidBott Thanks David, it makes sense, which not many things do in these times... :) I have incorporated many of your ideas into our 5er and appreciate your videos!
Another great video
FYI, UV saniziter Amazon link non-functional.
Video made without touching the keyboard for my protection. Thank you, Dave. lol
@David Bott, I would like to add UV light to my rig to purify the water after the fresh water tank. Is yours setup before or after the tank?
Nice mod to your water system! Any issues with bulbs breaking while driving around? We just bought an Acuva system for drinking water that I haven't installed yet, but thinking about getting one of these for the whole rig too. Have you noticed any difference with cleanliness (and odor) of your black and gray tanks too?
Hi...Seeing I just installed it, I can not yet comment on how will it will hold up. So that is something we will know after we move from Burleson TX to Byron, NY which would be about a 24 hour trip. As far as Black and Gray tanks...this really would have no impact at all on the tanks seeing the tanks get the odor from your waist and things in it that is decomposing.
That is my question as well. How will the bulb hold up? Feedback when able pretty please.
@@tima919 Well...It just drove from Burlenson TX to Byron NY, 24 hours of driving and seems just fine. :)
@@DavidBott Oh fantastic, and thanks for the feedback.
I'd prolly just load my old Mr Coffee pot with the morning's hot water before anything else. Also, why install AFTER the filter?? Thanks!!
You want thater water to be as "clear" visually as possible so the light has the best chance at hitting the "bad stuff" to kill it. We are talking micro DNA stuff, so things, particles, can get into the way.
@@DavidBott that absolutely makes sense - thank you very much
David!
Starlink just released: $40/mo unlimited without any reductions until 40! Crazy!
Rob Carey
SPAM post and false info.
David Bott - It’s not SPAM or false information if it’s sent on April 1st - it’s an APRIL FOOL prank!
@@rcarey3965 True. That is what I meant. ;)
Great info, thanks!
Hi David, Would it be a good idea to install a timer or better yet an on demand water flow sensor on the UV light so that the light is not continuously on and the water is not too hot initially in the AM as you say occurs now.
Loved this informative show about uv light and your water.
With the fear out there now,
I was wondering if any one has tried to developed a face mask that uses UV light to sterilize air coming in unlike the N95 or surgical mask that just filter air.
I tried to look online for any type of item, but could not find any.
UV-C isn't very safe near skin or eyes There's a new type that's already being developed that's safe on skin and eyes called far-UV with a different wavelength but it's way too new that you won't find many products using it. Perhaps for the next pandemic it'll be out of developmental hell and a lot more widespread. The wands being made out of far-UV are way too big for now, they've still got to get them to a smaller size. Tried looking because I wanted to use my 3D printer to make some sort of mouth and nose cover and then retrofit a far-UV wand into it, but the idea fell apart when I realized how new the technology was.
Nice video Mr Bott. I'm wondering if it with the flow rate past the UV light is, I'm curious about this because I'm wondering if a delay circuit could be used to save bulb life.
It's actually recommended to leave the bulb on full time as it extends life compared to power cycling it frequently. I do have mine turn off with my 'sleep' home automation routine, then turn back on in the morning. But otherwise, each time the UV lamp is energized, it reduces its life a bit.
@@linuxkidd -. I know this is true with a filament based bulb I did not know it was true with this type of bulb. Automation cycling does sound like a better idea anyway.
Another great video. Question - does this sanitize the fresh water tank too? Through the pump into the coach protection?? Thanks again!
In a Tiffin, the water that enters the coach goes right to the bypass valve for the fresh water tank first. If that is turned, the water is directed to fill the tank, if not turned, then it is sent on to the water filter and then into the coach. So the water that goes into the tank is not filtered in any way. When you call for water using the water pump it is pulled from the tank and then it is passed through the filter (and then the UV Filter if you added it.). This is one reason I have mine setup like I do as the water come right in off the hose reel and then to my filter system and then into the bypass valve. As such, all my water is filtered and softened before it goes into the frash tank. It only hits the UV when it comes out of the tank as I used the area where the normal filter is to plum it in. Hope that makes sense.
@@DavidBott Perfectly clear. Thank you .
Great video and I like your set up on the coach. I have been researching which brand of UV to buy but my concern is will that sensitive bulb and casing break as the coach bounces down the roads (really poor highways out there). Do you feel the bulb or casing will break as a result?
I have not had any issues or concerns as the they are both inside and are quite tight. But yes the quartz tube were to break, that could then be an issue and thus having the filters after it would protect the rest of the coach. If the UV lamp was to break, it would stay inside the quartz tube thus not an issue. (The water is around the outside of the quartz tube, the UV lamp is inside it shining through it.)
@@DavidBott Agreed, but the quartz tube is also fragile. I contacted a manufacturer and he said several RVers now install these and has not heard of one breaking. I'm just expressing a concern with the "class 5 hurricane" bouncing on the roads. Thanks again for your response and video.
@@chuckpotter1209 Totally understood. We have crossed the country with it a few times, so far so good. The tube is tight in the chamber. All it can really do is move with the coach and the "hard" hits you feel in the coach is more so at the tire points with the impact. So not as jaring throughout the coach body. In any case...So far so good. :)
Hey Dave - thanks for another informative video. Have you ever done a video on the filtration system you installed that you referenced being on the other side of the coach? I would love to see what you did there and how it all works with this new system. Also, I’ve seen some people install one of these UV systems under the sink - any benefit/detriment from installing in further down the line like that? Thanks - Rob Carey
There are some videos on the water system I do think. (We have over 300+ on-line) The only reason maybe was space? As I would want process the water via UV as it comes in so the entire coach is protected...why protect just the sink after all? They also could have thought that 6 GPM flow is not enough...But most RV water pumps are only rated for 5 GPM anyway. But I surely would want to do as much as I can before it goes into the coach. Just released the blog post on our site that may offer more details. Here is the link to it... outsideourbubble.com/water-uv-sanitizer-for-rv-coach-or-home/
David Bott - Thank you for the link! Rob Carey
Since you're sanitizing the water before it is sent to faucets, shower, refrigerator, etc., will you still periodically sanitize the fresh water tank?
The frash tank get all the processing except for the UV. The UV is done for the tank AFTER it exits the tank as it needs to flow through the UV light before it get into the main part of the coach. Living full time, we still run enough water though the tank that it does not sit long enough to need to clean it often.
@@DavidBott Thanks David. We travel part-time for 5-7 months each year, typically broken up into 2-3 trips at least one month each. That said, do you think we would not have to sanitize our fresh water tank if we install a UV system between the fresh water tank and the input of the house water filter? (We also use a second filter right at the campground water connection.) Following typical sanitizing instructions, with my 100-gallon tank, I end up using 300 gallons of water in the process. That's not only wasteful but I don't want to dump that much water at a campground.
@@SRSnure IMHO, It all depends on how much you use the tanks and how often water is passing though it. You may use the RV 5 to 7 months, but are you using the tanks during that time or is the water in it just un case you need it? See my point. Even if I had full RO water in the tank, if it was not being used all the time, I would surely still clean it out once a year. What we do so we don't need to is to always use some of the water in the tank like when we shower, we can turn on the pump even if hooked up to water which will then pull water from the tank as well as increase pressure. When we get down to about 10%, we add water back in up to 40 or 50% and continue on. Doing something like this keeps more or less keep the water from stagnating. IMHO
David, did you find the 6GPM is enough? We have a 40' dp with 1.5 baths.
Seeing that most fixtures in a home or coach are less than 3....it is more than enough.
I can't figure out a way on my Rockwood Ultralight where to tie into the water line with a UV filter in a way to get all water sources, city and fresh water tank to be forced through the UV filter. I see water lines running all over the darn place and I can't figure out a way that would hit all the water sources. My question is, with the proper fittings could I get this attached to my source hose after it goes through the clearsource filters?
Does your Rockwood Ultralight (I know nothing about them) have an onboard water filter that all your water goes through? If so, you would put this right off of the OUTPUT of that filter. If not, and you are using outside filters, then sure, I do not see why you could not add it in line before it goes inside your Rockwood Ultralight.
@@DavidBott I'm so new to this but I have something underneath in the storage area that is a clear container and when I turn on the water I see all types of debris stirring around in it. It's a clear container and about 8-10" in length. I"ve never even tried to see how it comes off because it's full of water.
@@strykerliker That is a filer holder that you would put a water filter in. Something like this... amzn.to/3bWsAhe You should have a tool that goes around the filter housing that you use to loosen and tighten it. Be sure the water is OFF when you do this and release pressure by opening a tap, then it will be easier to open. :)
@@DavidBott So right after that filter is where I would tie in the UV light filter? I know I"m being a PIA but can you tell me what the amp drawing is on most UV filters? The reason I ask is because I only have an outlet available that the water heater is plugged in to. Thanks for your quick help. My water tested positive for ecoli so I"m a bit freaked out.
@@strykerliker Yes, it would go after the OUT port of that filter housing. You will need to know how to do some plumbing. (But kind of not sure on that seeing you did not seem to know you had a water filter housing without a filter in it. ;)) The UV only draws 25 watts. So very low power use. If you really want protection, you may want to consider a water purifier. This you would install by your sink and would be used for all drinking water. ... generalecology.com/collections/marine-rv/products/420600 But I just looked up your RV and I read it has a "Water-Pur Filtration System"...So I would ask your dealer or the manufacturer about that and do some reseach before you spend $$$ to try to improve it. Good luck!
Your basic pond UV sterilizer.
One would think though......the pond water circulates continuously 12 hrs at a time cycle or more. UV devices are sized to the pond capacity for not less than 1 full exchange per 3 hrs. In other words that water is exposed to a level of UV radiation (sized accordingly) for a period of at least 6-8 minutes (depending on flow rate )/ 12 hrs. Now the water sitting still in your sterilizer cylinder for a while is zapped of bacteria and viruses allegedly. But when you turn on the tap inside, and H20 is flowing past the UV bulb at {x gph) IDK the flow rate of your system, it is briefly exposed to UV just for a second or so, maybe less and never to return. So what then can be the efficacy of this device? Sounds like you bought into something here Dave
You really have no idea what you are speaking of and we are not talking POND WATER amounts of water. This is a low 6 GPM system meaning it will process 6 GPM flow rates if you are sending clear water thought it. Seeing that the water needs to pass from one end to the other all while going around a glass quartz tube, it will be expected to UV light. Seeing that a typical RV passes only 5 GPM and showers and other fixtures are even lower, this amount of UV light exposure is more than enough. I have used water and HVAC UV light for about 25 years, it is something I do know something about. UV light is not a "scam" etc, it is used in hospitals in their air ducts as well as ship water supplies to clean water.
@@DavidBott Alright then. Was just asking a question. I jest have a hard time believing that all bacteria and viruses can be destroyed by being exposed to UV light for a second or less......
@@bluestarindustrialarts7712 Hi...It's all good. Just remember, the tube is 23" long and with the quartz tube the UV lamp goes in this leaves only X space and the water needs to swirl around inside before it comes out and the UV tube is putting out a large amount of UV light energy. Seeing you are likely only moving 2 to 3 GPM, in most places in an RV, and it handles up to 6 GPM, then I think all should work as it suppose to. UV is used a lot. Hospitals are currently using UV chambers to sterilize used masks sadly enough. They are usually used to clean operating tools.
Lol, David, your killing me. That must be your favorite word 'Basically' lol. I've only watched the video for a minute or so and you've said it 4 times already. Basically, is a filler word. I'm just giving you a hard time don't mind me. Back to the video. :)
I have the FILL the time somehow "basically" as I try to think of what to say next. After all, I do most of these in one take. (I know you are just messing with me. All in good fun.)
Sounds more important than" uh " or "and". And I find you speaking fast. You have so much to share, that you can't wait. So excited you are. You are motivating.
Thank you for your videos.
@@robertcollins7515 Naw....Speaking fast is because we are from NY. (Update NY actually....you know...the good part.) Ha!
@@DavidBott David, JFYI, I have been following you guys the longest of any one on you-tube. I've learned a lot from you guys believe it or not. Keep up the good work.
Ok - don’t be spending a lot of time looking for that Elon Musk interview as it’s really hard to find out there. He may have been a little tipsy while on camera and if you look at the posting time I think I got that in right before midnight....April Fools! I can’t wait to hear pricing either...hope I got ya...hard to do in a place like this!
Rob Carey
Would like to let you know that the RV/household grade UV isn’t what as perfect as advertised. I worked inspecting drinking water systems for a state agency for 20 years and have taken coliform, E-coli samples after these UV units and the bacteria can be so high the Bacti tests can’t even count those numbers went through the units. I also helped write the standards for UV systems for the state too because EPA didn't have any at that time, then they used ours to come up with the countries standards. The information you are giving is very misleading. What happens over time, a film builds up (minerals and bacteria) inside the water lines and inside the UV unit which blocks the UV light so it doesn’t work like it did when it is new. The ones in City water plants have a sleeve that slide down the quarts glass to remove this film and they also have sensors to measure the light frequencies to make sure it is working properly. The household type don’t have anything close and are not EPA approved even if it says it on the box.
While I agree with you, it is only up to a point. Yes, as mentioned you need to keep the quartz tubes clean. This should be done each 6 months by removing and cleaning with at least 70% Alcohol solution. Also, in our case, we filter and even soften the water before it enters into the UV chamber with the entire idea of having "clear" water going into it so it can work most effectively. UV Light does kill at the DNA level and does surely help. It is used in plants and hospitals around the world as I am guessing you likely know. But it is only one layer of protection. So I do not find the information I have presented as "very" misleading. But your info does reinforce the need to be sure to keep the quartz tube clean. Thank s Eric.
@@DavidBott Of course more layers of protection is the best and that is what most cities do throughout the treatment process. I was just referring to the UV treatment. For most people water softeners are not practical and they don't have room. Soften water is actually very corrosive and will leach out lead and copper (from the faucets). I bet your anode in the hot water heater doesn't last long either just for that reason. Most RV/household UV you get are self contained and can't be cleaned. You will never know when the bulb frequencies change, in other words start burning out. So it can give you a false sense of security. All I'm saying they are good for awhile and the reason EPA doesn't recommend them.