ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Theres so much to talk about, I may have to split these up into 2 to 3 part videos :)
Some great places to buy these materials:
perfumersupply...
www.harrisonjo...
shop.perfumers...
www.libertynat...
www.edenbotani...
Don't forget to SUBSCRIBE to my channel if you like:
-- Perfumery, DIY perfumes, fragrance reviews, perfumery tips & tricks, tutorials, classes, basics, training, courses, how to's, and learning to make your own perfume and fragrances!
#bkscents #diyperfumery #fragrances
BK SCENTS :)
Massive thanks for your generous sharing ! Those materials selected and recommended by you are truly invaluable reference for us , especially it included the factors not only synthetic and natural,( the most crucial factor to reduce the proportion by using natural material to avoid the fragrance being cloudy) but also cost issue, performance, characteristics as well. Words are not enough to express how gratitude i am that could be able to share your remarkable expertise and experiences by watching your marvelous video.
Ditto! His videos helped me move from aromatherapy to perfumery 🤣.
Thank you so much these is just what I needed. This series is going to be epic!!
What a fantastic insight. So, how many flavours, smells or materials are actually out there to be mixed and made into perfume? Are we talking hundreds, or thousands? Is there a list of all the names too? Again, thanks for taking the immense amount of time to share all this with us. So very much appreciated.
There's no official list....but in my cabinets, drawers and shelves I have about 500 different materials. And I still want other things I haven't had the chance to aquire yet.....
Great to see you back man 👍
Awesome sauce! It seems you have been away for awhile, and low an behold, I grab my aromachems after a few months away to try and recreate some Canali Men, and you reappear. Literally not 3 minutes apart.
Perfumers think alike ;)
Welcome back bro ,, you are the best 🫡 keep going
You are awesome! Thank you for taking your time sharing your collection. I always learn a ton with your videos. Thank you!
I fell in love with guaiac wood, gurjun balsam and algenone! Not together lol but they can give such beauty to certain accords.
Was just debating if I should spend my money in new perfume or more materials. I know I don’t need more perfume, but on the other hand I haven’t been using my starter perfumery materials because I’m not excited about the basic ones I started with. I think this is just the video I need. Thanks!
The answer is always "yes"...buy more materials. And keep buying untill you have them all., Lol
@@bkscents7050 I took notes while watching!
At the end of the day...I still recommend getting your hands on as many different materials as you can. It doesn't hurt to have too many options....and every nose is different and has different likes.
Love this! :) I'd love to see more videos like this. Welcome back.
Here's some (15) of my favorite workhorse materials:
Sylvamber
Hedione HC
Cashmeran
Ethylene Brassylate
Veramoss
Cedramber
Vertofix Couer
Karanal
Kephalis
Clearwood
Nolimbanol
Cetalox
Fixateur 505E
Grisalva
Benzyl Salicylate
I'd love to see a follow-up version of this video, showcasing only your favorite workhorse materials and your easy-go dumb-reach materials.
(Also, have you tried making a perfume of nothing but blenders and workhorse materials and boosters/blasters? I've been trying it and it's absolutely glorious. Sometimes doing a fragrance that's 80% workhorse is just so good, and so structured, and so easy, and much more difficult to mess up.)
I love hedione HC! I would never use regular hedione again!
Kephalis is a super love for me too! If you use about 8% of that with 8% of cedarwood...slap some white musk's with 10-12% Linalool (mixed with Coranol) and a good dose of citrus and dihydro mycernol....and you have the backbone base of Versace Man Fraishe!
@@bkscents7050 Oh, nice!
Personally, I detect TONS of off notes whenever I use any Cedar EO, whether old world True-cedar or the new world Juniper-cedars. Especially when you mix them in with any Citrus EO, ESPECIALLY natural Bergamot EO. I recommend you try it, then dilute in some alcohol. Just a few drops. Maybe you'll notice it. Maybe you won't. Maybe it's just my materials.
Anyways, yeah, I've been in love with building a workhorse-dominant fragrance and it's SO FREAKING GOOD.
I also detect some off-notes with Dihydro Myrcenol, for some reason. It gives me this chemical Lime-citrus vibe that's in that uncanny valley compared to the natural. For me, if I wanna create a new citrus, Limonene, Lemon Terpenes, Ethyl Linalool, maybe some Methyl Pamplemousse. Gives a lemon/bergamot/grapefruit kinda vibe, heading towards Yuzu. Just add some Yuzuzest in there for some extra magic. Oh, and always add a touch of Ginger CO2 and Pink Peppercorn CO2 in there, they synergize so well with citrus, just need to top off with some Pineapple (Natural) by Robertet to balance out the lack of sweetness, and you've got a sophisticated citrus with some real depth to it. Adds a load of freshness. Just needs Ambrocenide in there.
(EDIT: Forgot to mention, add Nerol for extra boost. Nerol loves citrus. Ginger loves citrus. Pink Peppercorn loves citrus. Ambrocenide loves citrus, though Ambrocenide loves so many things that it might as well be that golden hedonistic robot from Futurama.)
I'm not a fan of Yuzuzest. To me it smells to much like grapefruit mixed with lemon. If you want to try a good Yuzu...Liberty naturals.com has a lively Yuzu absolute that's cheap and smells sooooo good.
Good to hear you like pink pepper and ginger CO2....once ya go CO2, there's no going back :)
@@bkscents7050 Please try mixing a few drops of Cedar EO (any cedar EO) with bergamot EO, and then add some perfumer's alcohol. Please let me know what you think, if you detect any off-notes. I'm really curious if this is just me, or if there's something about cedar and bergamot that just clashes universally.
Excited to see another video! Thank you
Wow. Amazing!! Thank you so much. Now to video #2!!
i sincerely thank you sir, you have helped me a lot. god bless
Lyral is nice for a base. For a rich spicy fragrance try Hydrocarboresine paired with Lyral and Ambrettolide (originally used in Black Cashmere by Donna Karan, now discontinued).
A huge thankyou, such an extensive list and informative descriptions. Can't wait to check your perception against mine
I'm kind of marathoning videos like this hahaha
But as I'm from Brazil, it's a little difficult to compare the type of essences with the ones I see here. Still thinking about starting. Thank you very much for sharing your experiences ;) Is there a guide for when/why to dilute an oil or material?
I agree with pineapple Robertet. Beautiful but too sweet for my liking.
Great video as always bkkorn! Cheers!
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
01:58 🤔 When mixing perfume oils with alcohol, it won't perform like a real perfume because oil-based materials aren't meant for alcoholic spray applications.
04:59 🧪 There's no single material to increase longevity, projection, and sillage in perfumes. It's about choosing the right materials in combination.
07:30 ⚖️ When starting in perfumery, invest in a reliable scale. Look for weight capacity, readability, and accuracy.
10:46 💧 Don't use drops when working with perfume formulas; use a scale for precision.
20:28 🤯 Weight and volume are different; don't confuse them. To dilute 20 grams of perfume concentrate into 100 ml, add 80 grams of alcohol.
24:02 🌸 Test fragrances on skin for spray perfumes and on paper strips for different applications based on the intended use.
24:15 🌸 To understand how a finished product will smell, it's essential to test your fragrance on the intended final product. For example, if making a roll-on perfume, test it in roll-on form, not just on paper or in the air.
26:08 📏 When pre-diluting fragrance materials, the amount of dilution needed depends on your preferences and the material's strength. Research recommended dosing ratios online and check demo formulas from fragrance houses as a starting point.
28:46 🧪 For determining the proper dilution ratio, you may need to do some math. A formula calculator spreadsheetcan be a handy tool to simplify these calculations and determine the parts per thousand in your blend.
Made with HARPA AI
These videos are so helpful! Love your perfume making content
Thank you Ellie!
Oooo thanks for sharing that website. Lots of hard to source stuff on there. I swear all the good hard to find stuff is always from sellers in Europe lol.
Beware! Melon Givco should be diluted well below 1% as low as 0.2% even lower. Some materials become more evident as you dilute them since anosmia doesn't happen so quickly and this is one of them. Here is a melon note that needs only a drop too much to shift an entire blend off. Melonal is also one of these materials. You know how you put salt on melon to make it sweeter? That's how I think about Melon Givco and Melonal. These strangely work well with green notes like Cyclal C and Isocyclocitral, Vetiver, and Oakmoss, also certain Aldehydes. Much experimentation needed though. Melafleur can soften them, but the trade-off is imo a bit too synthetic.
Overall my favourite is
Anethol & Pink pepper, not for use but for smell itself.
Thank you for all the info. How do you store your concentrated ingredients with out them smelling up your home?
Hahahaha! Oh it smells in here for sure. Some materials I have to double bag in air tight seals and store them in drawers cause they are so strong. But yes....my whole place smells. Not that bad though.....
You should write a book - I want to buy
just noticed the sterling jp60 on the wall. 👌
\here making my list while watching 😂
Such a great video idea!!!!!
Mr. BK, I follow you with interest and you are a wonderful person! I am very interested in your opinion about the materials, but we have a big problem with translation, I am not an English speaker and I have to use TH-cam subtitles, only it doesn't translate technically ... It allows you to edit youtube to write every time what substance is it? We would be grateful
Try Indonesian vetiver and Colombian coffee 6:4, thank u 😊
I think sampaquita is a synthetic Jasmin Sambac (sampaquita) as where Jasmine specialty is synthetic Jasmine Grandiflorium
Please added names in the description
Boisé :
dreamwood = santal
vetiver SFE
Cedrawood verginina or texas, cedrawood rectified, vertofix ,iso E super, Verdox
Patchouli, patchoulol, ckearwood
Florale :
Jasmine sepecialty form firmenich
Jasmine sampaquita
Lactone cis-Jasmone
Iris : inone Alpha, beta, gamma
Methyl Inone, Irolia
Iris absolute synthetic
Parmanthème
Acétate de Linalyle
Lilial, Lyral,
Muget : Florhydral, Dupical
Rose : Rose Givco, WARDIA Firmenich, ROSE ULTIMATE EXTRACT IFF,
Geranium : geranium terpeneless
Damascone alpha
Fruité :
melon : Cis-6-Nonenal + melon givco 150/2
cassis : CASSIS BASE firmenich .
Dew Fruits®
Nonalactone-Gamma
Frambinone + fructalate firmenich
Pineapple Natural (Robertet)
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Caproate d'Ethyle
Octanoate d'Ethyle
Sulfurol
Nonalactone-Gamma
Nectaryl
This guy is the real MVP. Thank you!
couldnt help but notice you opened and then closed the rose absolute 6 or 7 times 😋
Can you please do a video of showing how to work with vanillin crystals? Using them both at 100% and also diluted to whatever percent?
I actually never use raw vanillin crystals unless I'm doing a large formulation or very large batches. It's hard to weigh out powders accurately unless you have a lot of powder! But when I use it diluted...I have it prediluted at 10% and also 2%. The 2% is when I just want to micodose it for something sweet....but not scream VANILLAaaaaaa in the fragrance
Hello, I really like your channel, I would also like to try creating fragrances, but I have a problem: some fragrances such as oud give me a headache, I would like to ask you if you have fragrances that can help with this?
I have Jasmin Sambac EO and it's great
That firmenich cedarwood is the best go to Virginian cedar out there from what I've heard.
For clean cedar....yes to me it's the cleanest and I love it. But if I want a touch more "pencil shavings" I feel the Texas cedar does that better, but it's not as clean
whaaaaaat patchouli is loove
Have you tried hiba cedarwood from liberty? Very much like the texas, but replace the smoke with an earthy nuance.
I bought a cedarwood Virginia from Eden botanicals and fell in love. It smells like rich cedar chest. The cedar Virginia i have from Virginia and Texas from CP/perfume apprentice smell like straight pencil shavings
That is the only one I haven’t tried. Yet. Definitely have to pick some up. Himalayan is amazing too. It’s like a combo of atlas and sandalwood if you haven’t tried it yet.
@@wib6044 just saw this. Gonna have to grab me some! Thank you
I love florol/florosa good floralizer
Should dreamwood base be diluted or used directly?
You forgot to talk about Apple materials. But thanks for the video. Super helpful.
Welcom back sir
Fist off, I love your content and find it SO HELPFUL!!! I'm so jealous...you have SO MANY fragrance materials. My question is, assuming stored properly (air-tight caps on bottles, amber glass, dark/cool area) how long will they last? I've read some data sheets that say 36 months. Do you find this to be true or do you get more/less shelf life?
It's hard to determine shelf life. When a manufacturer suggests "24 months shelf life", that's usually from the date it's made. We also have to consider how long that material has been sitting in a warehouse from the retailer you bought it from. But for the most part....I don't worry too much about it. I throw things away when they start to smell "different" or "off" from what I remember them smelling like. It also helps to keep precious materials stored in the fridge for longer shelf life.....but not all materials need to go in the fridge ;)
@@bkscents7050 Great! Thanks so much! I currently keep all my nail polishes in the fridge for the same reason. My s/o will be thrilled to learn he is going to lose even more fridge space! 🤣
Dear Friend
I have a big collection of aromachemicals and I smell them almost every day. Is it dangerous and unhealthy to smell them all the time? I am addicted to dhm, several musk's ,amberwood style like amber Xtreme etc. I want your experience if there is no problem to inhale and breath them and the only problem with health will be when you apply them on your skin
Thank you in advance
John
Thank you, great video! I didn’t get the name of the cherry essence. Could you write here?
sir i live in uk i learned a lot from your videos your way of speaking and explaining is very Good plz tell me where i can get good perfume oil in uk .thanks .
hi Bk, the material you mentioned @18:41, can I please get the spelling, been searching in vain.
Mr. Bk, please think, these videos will remain and will be watched by more and more people, but unfortunately they are only addressed to English speakers. Please make an effort and edit the video, make a note of the substances used
An overlay of the materials would be awesome so we can search for them. Maybe an affiliate link so you can get a kickback from all the materials we buy while watching this
Trying to find auralia or however you spell it
I think aldehyde c16 whatever it is, kinda sucks. Too waxy. Not fruity enough for my liking
I have a peach mizumi or something like that from Amazon that I love. Smells like peach O rings though. More candied. Also have a peach accord from creating perfumes or perfumers apprentice that I don’t really care for. Gonna try the robertet one
Thank you
What’s the name of the material you mentioned that creates a mouth-watering effect?
That would be Sultanene (Symrise). It's so juicy....like smelling it just makes my mouth salivating and I can almost taste it
I don’t get much fruitiness from Black Currant bud absolute. Just cat piss. Slight fruitiness I guess. Maybe I need to get something just black currant berry. Not black currant buds maybe?
18:39 what is the spelling and who makes it?
44:05 how do you spell it? 66 nananol?
Great video, what was the cherry material you mentioned at 50:40? I just can't figure out how to spell it.
It's called Fruitaleur by Bedoukian. It's also known as Cherry Pentenoate on TGSC website
@@bkscents7050 Ah thank you so much!
How to you spell this one? 56:20
Excuse me...
What'S.... material.
What ARE .... materialS.
Love your channel.
Great video BK! One very important question I have is what is a good replacement for Tonalid (fixolide)? I don’t want to use it because it’s a crystal
Why not just dilute the crystal in ethyl alcohol or DPG? I keep a bottle of tonalide diluted down to 20% in ethyl alcohol for small batch blending. But quite honestly....there is no replacement for tonalide. MAYBE habanolide comes close ...but not really. It doesn't have the warmth and pillowy feel that tonalide has.
Which aldehyde is totally clean with no fruity note?
May I ask where you purchased the Jasmine specialty base?
Perfumers Apprentice has it under "Jasmine Specialty (firmenich)"
@@bkscents7050 Thank you! I'm going go down there tomorrow and get some
What was the name of the sandalwood replacement name?
The 2 that I like are Dreamwood Base (firmenich) and Bacdanol. But you can also try Javanol, but it's really really strong and needs to be dosed carefully.
@@bkscents7050 thanks bro,, i appreciate it
Vetiver Haiti smells like burnt rubber to me. I dislike it very much. I like green Indian or Indonesian better. Obviously bourbon vetiver is the best but I have never smelt it.
So scary to me that you're inhaling them so deeply and close to your nose from the bottle 😮 If I need a quick sniff - I prefer much more smelling the cap or with weak ACs, i move quickly the bottle in front of the nose and smell the air behind.
All the bottles here are my diluted ones, not the raw full strength, lol
Hey BK, Love your videos!
Need to look in to Virginia Cedarwood and that Dewfruit, they sound like exactly what I want [...next time my bank account allows] :,)
I've made ~160 trial batches and am ready to start a business, do you have any advice on becoming IFRA certified or getting in touch with a chemist to evaluate your fragrance?
Some of my favourite materials I haven't heard you mention are:
-Isobutavan (Sweet, Creamy, Vanilla Musk)[Perfumersapprentice]
-Violet Fixative Base (Deep, soft, purple violet flower//Base Note Violet) [CreatingPerfume]
-Ho Wood Essential Oil P&N (Top note, soft wood similar to sandalwood with more green/ mossy facets in the background) [Perfumersapprentice]
-Lavender (Diva) France & Lavender Maillette, France P&N are my fav lavenders, Diva being a little sweeter and maillette being a little more green and earthy
-Bicyclononalactone (IFF) (Fixative, great for blending woods and warmer base notes ((Honey, especially!!))to flowers, particularly white florals and rose // Strong Tonka Alternative [Perfumersapprentice]
-Petitgrain Mandarin (Egypt) is very strong, gritty, earthy, spicy, somewhat vetiver-like top note, think mostly roots, while Petitgrain Paraguay is a lot more sage, neroli, orange blossom, think more stem and flower [Perfumersapprentice]
-Opopanox Absolute is more like sweet myrrh, smokier, Black-Orange; warmer counterpart to labandum absolute's More Green-Yellow Resin somewhat similar to frankincense by contrast.[Perfumersapprentice]
-Elemi (Philippines) is my favourite sour spice, Pink Peppercorn Oil P&N being my overall favourite spice
I also got fresh cotton in a amazon pack from lagunamoon which is really good but it's only a middle note at best, so not quite a fixative, but especially if you can get that one alone, may be worthwhile... iffy though because you can definitely pick up on a touch of white floral/fruitiness in there
Also, I hated Heliotrapex X, wayyyyy too powdery, even at 10% for me, but I'll update ya' if I do more tests with it...
I'm Pretty sure I found Beeswax Absolute, Hedione, Givco's Black Agar, and Tobacco Absolute (5% TEC) because of you or your excel document which I use ALL. THE. TIME. so thank you for that
Ah you didn't hear me speak of some of your favorite materials yet....because those categories will be covered in videos part 2 and 3 ;)
@@bkscents7050 exciting!! can't wait :))