Grind this Michigan Axe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Bringing the Michigan pattern axe back to life, safety and quickly, with a bench grinder. They said it can't (shouldn't?) be done. But with time, care, and proof, I show it can (but maybe still shouldn't...) be done!
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As an axe man who started as a knife guy I must concur with all your statements regarding the convex grind. Bark River and Fallkniven both make excellent convexed knives. I've put a convex apple seed edge on a few axes now as well. They work fantastic.
Nice work and very well presented video. I believe that even someone with no knowledge of axes or tools watched the video they would have a good idea of how to properly make the repair.
Thank you!
If I remember correctly, an axe bit should be around 58 Rockwell? Your bit broke most likely because it was a little to hard. Unless you hit a rock. It would take over 300° F to affect the temper in that bit. Your fine. When I use my belt grinder on bits, my ruel is, if I can't touch it with my hand, I need to cool it down. That jeeps you very safe. Good job. Don't let the purest ruin your thunder! Your out here doing it, not preaching it on the internet and that makes all the difference.
That’s good to know! The temper really does seem fine I’ve been using it quite a bit with no issues. Practice over theory for sure!
I have found convex grinds relatively easy on a belt sander. I just use the part of the belt not backed by the platen (slack belt grinding). They even make fixtures with different degrees of slackness, for lack of a better term. I think as long as you keep a quench bucket handy and exercise caution, you should be able to grind without affecting temper. It also depends on how far back the factory heat treat extends from the edge. Council advertises that theirs extends back 1½ inches from the edge on some models (I think the FSS boy's axe), which exceeds what is required. I have found that a bead blaster using glass beads sometimes reveals the temper line on axes or knives. I enjoy your willingness to experiment.
That’s a great way to do it! My shop has a VERY underpowered 1 inch belt grinder. I also have that FSS boys axe and it’s one of my all time favorites!
Good vid and nice job on the axe. Thats a fair depth of bit to have to grind off, id agree that that hardness difference you noticed at the end was prob more to do with the factory heattreat/distance from edge than any wrongdoing on your part. And a point or two HRC difference softer isnt too much to worry about anyway. Good stuff!
Im a fan of convex edge on some axes. Most of my bush knives and machetes wear a scandivex edge, a flat bevel rounded into a convex micro. Cuts great on green wood as well as in butchering.
For sure. I find I use a convex knives a lot, I keep chipping out my scandi knives!
There are some vintage Craftsman boys axes that are a Michigan pattern. There are only a couple on ebay at the moment. They are the only ones I know of. Been thinking about getting one.
Nice save👍. I have a pulaski with a fiberglass handle that was way too soft when I bought it. Like many axes, hammers, and other striking tools, it was made of 1060 steel and easy to deal with. I was able to harden and temper it with the handle on by submerging it in cold water with just the bit sticking out of the water using a cutting torch. The thing has seen a lot of hard use and still holding a good edge.
That's great to hear! Did you normalize first? I've been wanting to experiment heat treating those cheap Collins axes to see if they can be hardened, but having mixed results.
@@urbanlumberjack I didn't bother normalizing as it didn't appear to have been heat treated from the factory, so it was quite soft when I got it.
@davefarnsworth3020 so cool. That’s an instant upgrade on that axe!
Axe steel usually has a quite high temper. So you don't ruin the intended temper of an axe as fast as you would ruin a knife temper.
I was recently made aware of lamaka work axes by an Australian youtuber. (His name escapes me at the moment) I went to their site to see about cost. Now they only sell their new axes in an auction format. There is an auction now and both the single bit and the double bit are bid up to sux hundred bucks or so. I've never seen new items being sold in such a way.
Would the TH-camr be Kurt S by any chance? I've never seen a Lamaca in person, but would like to someday.
@@urbanlumberjack I think it is Kurt s, yes. I love his videos. He has excellent axe control and aim..
Excuse my misspelling of the company name
Learned a new term: I didn't know it was called the "candle". I've read that the rounded corners toe and heel on Michigans is to reduce the chance of corners of the bit breaking in cold weather.
I'd read that too somewhere about the corners. Apparently old dayton/Yankee patterns sharp corners didn't hold up that well, and the Michigan was the response
That makes a lot of sense I could see that for sure.
Great work with that axe! 🪓 A lot of material has been removed, and the steel could be a bit softer, but I believe it's still usable.
Thank you! I split about a face cord with it, and the edge is holding up very well. The thicker grind definitely helps edge retention. Need to try chopping now
An Axe with a rounded pole is used for hunting. You use it to beat the hide off the animal without damaging it.
Uggh. That's a nasty chip. I would cry
It was a bummer! I'm amazed I was able to find the chip after it broke!
@@urbanlumberjack that's a great point. It's crazy you found the chip
I had a nearly identical chip out of an unmarked Michigan axe I picked up last year. The steel was so hard I had no choice but to reprofile with the belt sander. I will say however, I find using a belt sander gets me a convex grind more easily than the flat grind. Even when the convex is not the goal. I doubt its good technique. I must be doing something wrong !
For sure, those vintage axes can be hard as a coffin nail! I have the 1 inch harbor freight grinder I probably should have mentioned that. If it was rightly powered I bet it would do a lot better
I have a vintage craftsman double oval Michigan boys axe head
That's strange that a Michigan was designed for softwood? They are the most common axe found here in Ohio as well as surrounding states. Ohio is mostly hardwoods. Very few pine forest around. I just assumed a Michigan was ment for hardwoods.
That’s interesting, I haven’t spent much time in Ohio, but wouod lovey I check it out. All the antique tools I get online seem to be from Pennsylvania or Ohio. I understand alot of the hardwood logging was done in the lower peninsula and the softwood logging in the UP. Really cool looking into it, there’s still millions of board feet of submerged logs in the Great Lakes.
Just found a Dunlap boys axe head in Michigan pattern..first one ive seen too. Iam in wi
That’s so cool! I’d love to see it. Also, I love Wisconsin we are likely moving there in the next few years
@@urbanlumberjack Just finished cleaning it up and sharpening..not halfted yet. Can send a pic if you want? Also welcome in advance to Wi. Iam in Fall River if you land this way buz me up.
Did you mean convex or hollow grind?
Great video by the way
Thank you! I would have meant convex. I’ve noticed some newer axes come hollow ground from the factory but I find them to be sticky, and always convex them