I do this for a living and have to say you’ve done a cracking job and exactly as I’ve been doing it for over a decade now. You can use a power sander on the veneer but only with light pressure. You’re better applying the veneer a little sooner whilst the glue is slightly moist and be careful how long the iron is applied for as excess heat destroys the glue which might initially stick but can provide a poor bond and fail with too much heat. Use a wooden block to move out from the centre to edges, removing air bubbles and also taking the heat out of the glue causing it to grab. Great job overall👍
@@StagnantMizu yes, of course. With care, you can also use hot met (sparingly applied) for polyester fine weave for things like grille cloth edge fixings. Best of luck with your projects. Always sensible to try new methods/glues on a test sample first👍
Speaker building and restoration is fun. I'm in my 70's and waiting for some caps to get here so that I can freshen up a pair of BIC Venturi's I built cabinets for back in the 80's.
This is pusing me to do the same on my Cerwin Vega AT-12's, they're a bit busted on the back so I'll be repairing that. You my sir got a new subscriber.
He’s pretty damn handy with that router. I own one, but I’ve never learned how to use it properly. This video makes me think I need to start practicing!
Nicely done. Exactly what I needed to see. I was mentally stuck on how to veneer the lip on the front. Your idea of shaving it off with a flush trim is money.
Thank you for this video. I need to recover some mdf bookshelf speakers and this is the perfect guide for me. And I now have an excuse to buy more implements of destruction (router and heat gun).
One thing to consider when doing this is to replace the speaker grill fasteners with magnetic ones. They work better and give a cleaner look as they would sit behind the veneer.
Nice work. I wish I could run a router that well. I've done laminate countertops and I'm going to try and attempt some receiver ends first before I try speakers. This will be my go-to vid. I didn't know wood glue could be used like that! I always use contact or spray glue. Both are NOT user friendly. One missed drop, and the project is over! Great vid!!
Nice video, good job, much nicer now. With relatively little tools achieve great results. There’s something in me wanting to comment on missing a chance an easy sound quality upgrade as well, exchanging and adding components and dampening. But thats not the essence of the project, and anyone watching can fill that in themselves.
You did an amazing job, they look awesome! I also think the lighter veneer makes them look more modern. Black wood veneer was all the rage in 90s speakers.
It's always funny looking at back at what was in style in the past. Wondering what's in style today that people will wonder in 10 years why the heck did we ever like that?? My guess is gray wood floors
REALLY good video! Take pictures of the wiring lol, excellent advice. Nice job matching grain and even steaming to hydrate and raise out the router bit denting. I like the wood glue/tack up idea over contact cement, more flexible realignment/open-time window. And, possibly even adhesion over your radius at the edge. Great video.
Wow, you really improved on the look of these! Would be quite easy to improve the sound of these too by building a crossover for it, upgrade it's internal wiring and treating the cabinet with some more dampening material. For something like this, some bitumen on the panels covered with rockwool would do quite well without costing a lot I'd say. For the crossover; No need to use expensive high end filmcaps for something like this. Just a simple 3 way LR2 network with some cheap NPE's and some inexpensive inductors would be a massive improvement in comparisson to a speaker that just uses two caps as a first order high pass filter. To decide on crossover frequency you just run a few sweeps in its current form and measure the drivers in REW. Don't get me wrong, it will never be a audiophile speaker, but good gains can be made with not too much effort and money I think.
Since the speaker doesn't have a proper midrange, but essentially two tweeters, the frequency response of them will never match properly. Not worth investing in a measurement set up for this. They will sound ok-ish, no matter what. Bass and treble is present anyhow, and they will never have good midrange or flat frequency response. Unless the tweeter cone driver is replaced by a larger midrange, which will need a sealed compartment behind it. Overall - too much work for someone who I guess is inexperienced in electrical and acoustical engineering and too much money to be spent. Adding some damping material is a good idea though.
Seeing this speakers disassembled I can say those are some high quality speakers. Just the crossover itself is a work of art. and that inert baffle, internal bracing and damping. Joy to see. Great job on the veneering though. Educational.
Internal bracing is important on a lot of speakers but I don't think it is so important on tower speakers where the sides are very narrow. Simply would not make that much difference. Yes the drivers were cheap but perhaps they still sounded good. the first order crossovers only for the tweeters is typical for inexpensive speakers. inductors significantly increase production cost. If they were mine I would do a test with a calibrated microphone on the woofers then the tweeters and most likely build a second order crossover. I would not say that baffle is inert I am sure it was sized accordingly. This guy is a good craftsman and did a great job on this project. He never claimed to know a lot about crossovers. He preserved these speakers as a family heirloom. He can always upgrade the drivers and crossover later if needed.
How bad is the veneer peeling? If it's not bad you could use a glue shringe to inject wood glue underneath, wait for it to tack up some and then iron it like in the video
dont forget to mask up with mdf its toxic,great video im about to restore a bunch of speakers soon,make shure your capacitors are ok to they go bad over time....
You made those speakers look nice! You might whant to change the capasitors becurse thay tent to fail with time and might pass on tje full signal to the tweeter wich will kill it
You quite right there, plus upgrading to higher quality over electrolytic. And even if film capacitor😊 being used. Can be sure the manf didn't buy the beer or best. Also some bracing added inside for resonances . So all in all, the veneer is nice but just a lipstick effort
Hi.. nice box restoring and result. I thought it is already good looking when you stripped off that ugly black thing. I would already be restoring actuall drivers (they could use some thin layer of glycerin on the rubber surround) and for the big bang upgrade for little to no money, the cheap crossover parts - just change the electrolytic capacitor to film capacitor of same value and you got yourself 2 levels up!
i have the smaller version of those, its those minus the lower woofer and port. im currently using another pair of speakers that are carpeted, i would like to have them re carpeted. thanks to cats.
I have those too! My dad bought those to be the rear surround speakers in his system a long time ago. I haven't restored those. Will likely end up using them in the shop
Did I miss something? Where's the cross over for these speakers? I saw the capacitors attached to the tweeter and mid-range driver. Was that it? Usually you use a copper coil to differentiate the lower frequencies to the woofers, but I didn't see those. Then I saw that the woofers were daisy chained together. Wow...Sony was doing some kind of magic there. I feel like your restoration was 10 times more impressive than the design of the speaker itself.
@@ProjectBilld I would do the same. The driver load out on those speakers are excellent if engineered better. The current problem with how these were designed is that the woofers are taking on the entire, full range of the signal and then the capacitors filter out the lower frequencies. So what happens is, the higher frequencies interact against the lower frequencies in the woofer. This causes the bass to become "flabby". Instead of articulated bass notes, you just get generic "whumps" of bass. So filtering out those high frequencies for the woofers would be paramount. The next thing to do would be to control cabinet resonance. The tweeter is the most fragile of the drivers and is ultra sensitive to any vibration. I would look into getting some vibration resistant foam and see if it can be attached around the area where the tweeter attaches to the cabinet. It's also why you sometimes see various types of material inside a speaker. It's to mitigate the vibration from the woofers interacting with the other drivers. Just my .02 :) Good luck with your build. It does look extremely impressive. :)
No coils because that's how all cheap speakers from Asia are. But that 'midrange' (in reality: 3" cone tweeter) will not match properly with the 10" woofers. The frequency response won't have enough overlap and additionally, the distance from the lower woofer is too large. No matter how many components are thrown at it.
Yeah, I didn't know how well contact cement would work on the curved edges of the speaker and I had to realign the veneer a few times to get the grain patterns to line up and I didn't want to even try messing around with contact cement for that
How flexible did you find this veneer to be? I’m considering it for dynamic curves on vehicle interior trim pieces. What methods do you think could be used to soften it for molding around curves?
It's fairly flexible. I know down to about a half inch radius is doable as long as the grain is oriented correctly, I'm not sure smaller than that. If the curve is very small and you find the the veneer cracking you could try a veneer softener/tamer. I've never used one but that would be my next step.
I'm confused by your comment. I specifically said in the video that they were not hi end speakers and that I was only restoring them for sentimental reasons
With his skills, he could make them sound high end though if he wanted to (if he's into that kind of audiophile stuff. I'm REEEAAALLY hoping he is. )😅😅. Sony's Kevlar drivers were pretty good. The only things that could be added are some newer crossovers and more bracing.
Thanks! The tools and materials used are all linked in the video description but off the top of my head: 2 rolls of walnut veneer $50 each, wood glue $5, poly $10, the speaker cloth and adhesive $30. I completed the project in about 3 weeks, but it takes me significantly longer as I'm recording, editing, and figuring things out.
Nice job, but i would question using wood glue like contact cement, and using heat to make the bond. They actually make heat activated glue that is used in upholstery that would have been the much much better choice. I would bet money the "heat activated" wood glue will fail with time.
It's holding up fine for now. I don't know about the longevity as it was my first time doing it that way, but using pva glue is not a technique I created, it's a method used by woodworkers with a lot more experience than me so I do feel pretty good about it. I have since discovered heat activated glues made specifically for veneer so I'd likely use one of those next time. I will post an update if the glue begins to fail at any point.
I think this video was an awesome tutorial on speaker restoration! I also think the production / editing values are very high - something I know about from my career in film! It was fun to watch and learn from and VERY inspiring. I think Bill is a very multi-talented young man.
This was absolutely fantastic to watch. You orchestrated the video perfectly. So much so, that I will be trying to duplicate your handiwork with a couple of Bose 301 speakers whose vinyl had peeled away. I greatly appreciate all your links as I was greatly interested in the router offset base. Bravo for truly a great video. Ciao, Rocco
I received a pair of similar looking speakers a couple years ago. A co-worker offered them to me for free, or else he was going tho throw them away, as he was tired of moving them around. I brought them home, re covered the grills, looked into the brand as I hadn't heard of B&W's before. Turned out that Bowers & Wilkins are high end speakers made in England, and he had just given me an $1,800 pair of them, plus a center channel B&W and two Paradigm surround speakers . They are hands down the best sounding speaker I've ever owned!
Nicely done and nicely explained, but you could have upgraded them at the ame time by adding bracing and panel damping material inside (see GR-Research's NoRez product, plus Rockwool) and upgrsded the crosssovers with better quality components, but very nice job with the veneering.
Yes I thought the same, even reinforcing the case front to dampen resonance as well, with 2 woofers looks like it would help. But then it would be more like a speaker building project.
@@robertjdejong i like a challenge like That. If the cabinet net walls are quite thin like 12mm particle board you can also line it with 3 or 6mm MDF to stiffen it up and add bracing and damping. But ultimately it depends whether the drive units are inherently good enough to justify such an amount of work that you would get a good speaker at the end of it or just buy a god kit from GR-Research and be guaranteed a good speaker
I do this for a living and have to say you’ve done a cracking job and exactly as I’ve been doing it for over a decade now. You can use a power sander on the veneer but only with light pressure. You’re better applying the veneer a little sooner whilst the glue is slightly moist and be careful how long the iron is applied for as excess heat destroys the glue which might initially stick but can provide a poor bond and fail with too much heat. Use a wooden block to move out from the centre to edges, removing air bubbles and also taking the heat out of the glue causing it to grab. Great job overall👍
Thanks for the tips! Stuff like that is super helpful
can i use b7000 for the cloth glue?
@@StagnantMizu yes, of course. With care, you can also use hot met (sparingly applied) for polyester fine weave for things like grille cloth edge fixings. Best of luck with your projects. Always sensible to try new methods/glues on a test sample first👍
Speaker building and restoration is fun. I'm in my 70's and waiting for some caps to get here so that I can freshen up a pair of BIC Venturi's I built cabinets for back in the 80's.
I pretty much never comment on videos but this was exquisite. Detailed, informative and paced perfectly.
Thank you!
You're welcome! Appreciate the comment
The average folk can’t do this , LOL! Amazing job! Safe to say you’re a craftsman!
When it comes to subscription you had me at "Hey there, i'm Bill". Totally made my day. Cheers!
Honestly, really underrated speakers
I certainly agree! They sound much better than I'd expect given the cheap internals
This is pusing me to do the same on my Cerwin Vega AT-12's, they're a bit busted on the back so I'll be repairing that. You my sir got a new subscriber.
You did an excellent job and an even better run through. Thanks subscribed
He’s pretty damn handy with that router. I own one, but I’ve never learned how to use it properly. This video makes me think I need to start practicing!
Nicely done. Exactly what I needed to see. I was mentally stuck on how to veneer the lip on the front. Your idea of shaving it off with a flush trim is money.
Awesome! Glad the video could help
Very nice. Helping a friend refinish some Klipsch and you’ve got a great example to follow!
Awesome! Glad the video was helpful
Thank you for this video. I need to recover some mdf bookshelf speakers and this is the perfect guide for me. And I now have an excuse to buy more implements of destruction (router and heat gun).
Great video. I wish everyone was good at explaining important steps
Thanks!
My toxic trade is that I think I can do this on my own LOL
I believe in you
Beautiful job they came out awesome great job
Thanks!
One thing to consider when doing this is to replace the speaker grill fasteners with magnetic ones. They work better and give a cleaner look as they would sit behind the veneer.
That's a good tip, thanks!
That was a really well done make over. Nice touch with the painters tape too. Thanks for sharing :0)
Nice work. I wish I could run a router that well. I've done laminate countertops and I'm going to try and attempt some receiver ends first before I try speakers. This will be my go-to vid. I didn't know wood glue could be used like that! I always use contact or spray glue. Both are NOT user friendly. One missed drop, and the project is over! Great vid!!
Thanks! I had no interest in messing with contact cement so I looked for an easier method, it's holding up perfectly so far
Nice video, good job, much nicer now.
With relatively little tools achieve great results.
There’s something in me wanting to comment on missing a chance an easy sound quality upgrade as well, exchanging and adding components and dampening. But thats not the essence of the project, and anyone watching can fill that in themselves.
You did an amazing job, they look awesome! I also think the lighter veneer makes them look more modern. Black wood veneer was all the rage in 90s speakers.
It's always funny looking at back at what was in style in the past. Wondering what's in style today that people will wonder in 10 years why the heck did we ever like that?? My guess is gray wood floors
REALLY good video! Take pictures of the wiring lol, excellent advice. Nice job matching grain and even steaming to hydrate and raise out the router bit denting. I like the wood glue/tack up idea over contact cement, more flexible realignment/open-time window. And, possibly even adhesion over your radius at the edge. Great video.
Can't begin to count how many times I've started a project without taking pictures and the forgotten how it went back together when I got to the end
Well done. A follow vid could include building a 2nd or 3rd order xover and adding some internal bracing or batting to improve the sound.
Thanks! That's definitely a possibility at some point
Wow, you really improved on the look of these!
Would be quite easy to improve the sound of these too by building a crossover for it, upgrade it's internal wiring and treating the cabinet with some more dampening material. For something like this, some bitumen on the panels covered with rockwool would do quite well without costing a lot I'd say.
For the crossover; No need to use expensive high end filmcaps for something like this. Just a simple 3 way LR2 network with some cheap NPE's and some inexpensive inductors would be a massive improvement in comparisson to a speaker that just uses two caps as a first order high pass filter.
To decide on crossover frequency you just run a few sweeps in its current form and measure the drivers in REW.
Don't get me wrong, it will never be a audiophile speaker, but good gains can be made with not too much effort and money I think.
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely be revisiting this comment if I decide to do any internal work to the speakers
Since the speaker doesn't have a proper midrange, but essentially two tweeters, the frequency response of them will never match properly. Not worth investing in a measurement set up for this. They will sound ok-ish, no matter what. Bass and treble is present anyhow, and they will never have good midrange or flat frequency response. Unless the tweeter cone driver is replaced by a larger midrange, which will need a sealed compartment behind it. Overall - too much work for someone who I guess is inexperienced in electrical and acoustical engineering and too much money to be spent.
Adding some damping material is a good idea though.
Seeing this speakers disassembled I can say those are some high quality speakers. Just the crossover itself is a work of art. and that inert baffle, internal bracing and damping. Joy to see. Great job on the veneering though. Educational.
Internal bracing is important on a lot of speakers but I don't think it is so important on tower speakers where the sides are very narrow. Simply would not make that much difference. Yes the drivers were cheap but perhaps they still sounded good. the first order crossovers only for the tweeters is typical for inexpensive speakers. inductors significantly increase production cost. If they were mine I would do a test with a calibrated microphone on the woofers then the tweeters and most likely build a second order crossover. I would not say that baffle is inert I am sure it was sized accordingly. This guy is a good craftsman and did a great job on this project. He never claimed to know a lot about crossovers. He preserved these speakers as a family heirloom. He can always upgrade the drivers and crossover later if needed.
Not really, very cheap wood used.
Awesome im going to do some speakers that are super rare but are in need of a restoration you inspired bro thanks
Love to hear that. Good luck restoring your speakers! Let me know if you have any questions
Great video, very detailed. They look awesome! I just bought a pair of vintage Sansui speakers and want to refinish them. The old veneer is peeling.
How bad is the veneer peeling? If it's not bad you could use a glue shringe to inject wood glue underneath, wait for it to tack up some and then iron it like in the video
Nice project, lovely results, lessons learned! :)
Thanks!
They look really cheap speakers though.
Great job. Really enjoyed this video. Thank you!
Appreciate it!
This is so good to to learn, if you don’t mind some DYI.
Are you sure this was your first restoration?? You did a great job.
First time doing a speaker restoration and using wood veneer. And thanks!
Damn!! What a good job!
Thanks!
I have no use for this information as far as I know, but I was transfixed regardless. I think I could do this too!
That's awesome! I think it's a pretty approachable project, not too many tools needed which is nice
dont forget to mask up with mdf its toxic,great video im about to restore a bunch of speakers soon,make shure your capacitors are ok to they go bad over time....
I do need to do a better job wearing a dust mask! Particularly with mdf
Excellent job! Well done
Thanks!
And beautiful work!!
Nice work.
Thanks!
Have you considered crossovers for the speakers? I added a crossovers in mine
Maybe someday. I've got so many other projects to work on!
I have a similar set of Sony speakers. The plastic baskets seem to get brittle and break. I've had to repair them multiple times
You made those speakers look nice! You might whant to change the capasitors becurse thay tent to fail with time and might pass on tje full signal to the tweeter wich will kill it
Good call. Likely going to be redoing the wiring and crossovers entirely in the future
You quite right there, plus upgrading to higher quality over electrolytic. And even if film capacitor😊 being used. Can be sure the manf didn't buy the beer or best. Also some bracing added inside for resonances . So all in all, the veneer is nice but just a lipstick effort
Молодец, красиво получилось👍
Really nice job 👍
Thanks!
Excellent! Thank you for the great video
You're welcome!
I have almost the exact same speakers with the exact same issue. I’ll mail em to ya! 😆
Send em over! Though you may not get them back 😁
Wow nice Job
Thanks!
Hi.. nice box restoring and result. I thought it is already good looking when you stripped off that ugly black thing. I would already be restoring actuall drivers (they could use some thin layer of glycerin on the rubber surround) and for the big bang upgrade for little to no money, the cheap crossover parts - just change the electrolytic capacitor to film capacitor of same value and you got yourself 2 levels up!
Thanks for the tips!
i have the smaller version of those, its those minus the lower woofer and port. im currently using another pair of speakers that are carpeted, i would like to have them re carpeted. thanks to cats.
I have those too! My dad bought those to be the rear surround speakers in his system a long time ago. I haven't restored those. Will likely end up using them in the shop
Did I miss something? Where's the cross over for these speakers? I saw the capacitors attached to the tweeter and mid-range driver. Was that it? Usually you use a copper coil to differentiate the lower frequencies to the woofers, but I didn't see those. Then I saw that the woofers were daisy chained together. Wow...Sony was doing some kind of magic there. I feel like your restoration was 10 times more impressive than the design of the speaker itself.
Yep that was it... I don't know much about redoing speaker wiring yet, but it's on the list for a future project
@@ProjectBilld I would do the same. The driver load out on those speakers are excellent if engineered better. The current problem with how these were designed is that the woofers are taking on the entire, full range of the signal and then the capacitors filter out the lower frequencies. So what happens is, the higher frequencies interact against the lower frequencies in the woofer. This causes the bass to become "flabby". Instead of articulated bass notes, you just get generic "whumps" of bass. So filtering out those high frequencies for the woofers would be paramount.
The next thing to do would be to control cabinet resonance. The tweeter is the most fragile of the drivers and is ultra sensitive to any vibration. I would look into getting some vibration resistant foam and see if it can be attached around the area where the tweeter attaches to the cabinet. It's also why you sometimes see various types of material inside a speaker. It's to mitigate the vibration from the woofers interacting with the other drivers.
Just my .02 :) Good luck with your build. It does look extremely impressive. :)
Thanks for the advice! It was very clear and helpful
No coils because that's how all cheap speakers from Asia are.
But that 'midrange' (in reality: 3" cone tweeter) will not match properly with the 10" woofers. The frequency response won't have enough overlap and additionally, the distance from the lower woofer is too large. No matter how many components are thrown at it.
amazing work
Thanks!
Yes, I like them better without the grills too.
Nice. Job
Great for the eyes but you should have put crossover network for the ears
Well done
Thanks!
Very impressive!!
Thanks!
Interesting, never seen this method done this way. Any reason you went with wood glue instead of contact cement?
Yeah, I didn't know how well contact cement would work on the curved edges of the speaker and I had to realign the veneer a few times to get the grain patterns to line up and I didn't want to even try messing around with contact cement for that
Perfect!!
I still have these ...and it's siblings... awesome sound for the price ...I spray paint my smaller ones....😅😅😅😅
Yes I have the smaller siblings too! They'll eventually be used in the shop
That was satisfying. Great work!
Awsome job
Thanks!
How flexible did you find this veneer to be?
I’m considering it for dynamic curves on vehicle interior trim pieces.
What methods do you think could be used to soften it for molding around curves?
It's fairly flexible. I know down to about a half inch radius is doable as long as the grain is oriented correctly, I'm not sure smaller than that. If the curve is very small and you find the the veneer cracking you could try a veneer softener/tamer. I've never used one but that would be my next step.
Damn good video. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Very nice!
Excellent
Thanks!
...a very good job....
Thanks!
What adhesive is being used with cloth cover?
It's linked in the video description along with all the other tools and materials used
Dude, do this on my hpm 100 😊 please
nice job!
Thanks!
Nice video.
Thanks!
Please send speaker box measurements
Hi END ?????🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Are you sirious??
100 Bucks both together
I'm confused by your comment. I specifically said in the video that they were not hi end speakers and that I was only restoring them for sentimental reasons
@@ProjectBilld sorry...my fault
With his skills, he could make them sound high end though if he wanted to (if he's into that kind of audiophile stuff. I'm REEEAAALLY hoping he is. )😅😅. Sony's Kevlar drivers were pretty good. The only things that could be added are some newer crossovers and more bracing.
Great work 👏
Thanks!
nice job! would you mind sharing time spent and cost of materials?
Thanks! The tools and materials used are all linked in the video description but off the top of my head: 2 rolls of walnut veneer $50 each, wood glue $5, poly $10, the speaker cloth and adhesive $30. I completed the project in about 3 weeks, but it takes me significantly longer as I'm recording, editing, and figuring things out.
@@ProjectBilld Superb, Concise and Thorough Presentation! ENJOY THE SPEAKERS!
Thanks! I've been loving them so far
The box itself is made of mdf, but the speaker front is made of chipboard!
Yep. The old vinyl was much harder to remove from the particle board than the mdf
First you take the dinglepop and smooth it with a bunch of schleem.
Do you take restoration jobs?
buy a new one is the best option
Now it looks like the 80s
that's no mdf but ldf ,that pretty sucks for a speaker
W🙌W
Nice job, but i would question using wood glue like contact cement, and using heat to make the bond. They actually make heat activated glue that is used in upholstery that would have been the much much better choice. I would bet money the "heat activated" wood glue will fail with time.
It's holding up fine for now. I don't know about the longevity as it was my first time doing it that way, but using pva glue is not a technique I created, it's a method used by woodworkers with a lot more experience than me so I do feel pretty good about it. I have since discovered heat activated glues made specifically for veneer so I'd likely use one of those next time. I will post an update if the glue begins to fail at any point.
Now they cost more than a new pair of speakers
at this kind of ultra cheap speker you can can of color and drop over poor shit too 🤣🤣🤣🤣
before looks better
Jelek..masih bagusan buatan Indonesia....
I think this video was an awesome tutorial on speaker restoration! I also think the production / editing values are very high - something I know about from my career in film! It was fun to watch and learn from and VERY inspiring. I think Bill is a very multi-talented young man.
Thanks Ari for the kind words!
Now upgrade the crossover and add new wire inside 🙋♂🙋♂
This was absolutely fantastic to watch. You orchestrated the video perfectly. So much so, that I will be trying to duplicate your handiwork with a couple of Bose 301 speakers whose vinyl had peeled away. I greatly appreciate all your links as I was greatly interested in the router offset base. Bravo for truly a great video. Ciao, Rocco
Awesome! Let me know if you have any questions when you're working on your speakers
I've never attempted this side of speaker repair but I can honestly say that this video really gives me the confidence to try!
Should have upgraded the crossover components, binding posts and wires too! Great job.
I considered it, but it's not something I know much about yet and didnt want to spend the time figuring it out at that point
Nice job! I especially appreciate the fix for router roller guide scars.
I was pretty proud of being able to fix those!
#SonySSmf750h (own 2 of these) Also the series will include: #SonySSmf650h, #SonySSmf550h & #SonySSmf450h (own 4 of these)
Great job veneers are awesome Maybe later you should upgrade the drivers and crossovers
Thanks! Down the line at some point I'd like to do that
I received a pair of similar looking speakers a couple years ago. A co-worker offered them to me for free, or else he was going tho throw them away, as he was tired of moving them around. I brought them home, re covered the grills, looked into the brand as I hadn't heard of B&W's before. Turned out that Bowers & Wilkins are high end speakers made in England, and he had just given me an $1,800 pair of them, plus a center channel B&W and two Paradigm surround speakers . They are hands down the best sounding speaker I've ever owned!
That's awesome! Glad they didn't get thrown out
wow, they turned out pretty good 👍🏻
Perhaps next, upgrade the drivers, the crossover unit, maybe route the holes a bit for some flush mounting. Hate seeing woofers with a PLASTIC basket.
lol at the end the sound through the speakers sounded horrible compared to the microphone recording. listening on focal floorspeakers
all that effort for a cheap pair of speakers lol. nice work!
Nicely done and nicely explained, but you could have upgraded them at the ame time by adding bracing and panel damping material inside (see GR-Research's NoRez product, plus Rockwool) and upgrsded the crosssovers with better quality components, but very nice job with the veneering.
Yes I thought the same, even reinforcing the case front to dampen resonance as well, with 2 woofers looks like it would help. But then it would be more like a speaker building project.
@@robertjdejong i like a challenge like That. If the cabinet net walls are quite thin like 12mm particle board you can also line it with 3 or 6mm MDF to stiffen it up and add bracing and damping. But ultimately it depends whether the drive units are inherently good enough to justify such an amount of work that you would get a good speaker at the end of it or just buy a god kit from GR-Research and be guaranteed a good speaker
ALSO HE COULD DELIVER PROPER BAND PASS. THOSE CONDICS ON THOSE WIRES IT'S SAD. OTHERWISE VERY NICE RESTORATION JOB DONE WITH VENEER.
Now you can restore them back to black
would b7000 work as adhesive? for the cloth