Servicing a Sachs Torpedo 3 speed internal gear hu
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- An instructional video about disassembling and reassembling a Sachs (later Sram) T3 hub gear, after cleaning.
This is my first video on internal gear hubs. I made this as an experiment, if this could
Great video, thanks.
One tip I would add from experience...
Once finished, make sure you clean all the old grease off that toothbrush, otherwise it leaves a pretty nasty aftertaste.
Thanks for sharing! Of course, this would depend on where you're situated and how you're planning to ride your bike, but here in Finland, where I live, it isn't recommended to put Vaseline or similar thick grease (automotive joint lube etc) in the actual gears. Only on the ball bearings. A lot of people here keep using their bikes for daily commute in the wintertime, so the vaseline may freeze or at least become too stiff, ending in the gear malfunction. So instead, I would recommend you grease the ball bearings with normal ball bearing grease of your choice and dip the assembled gears into usual motor or transmission oil. This will keep the gears operating even in the coldest weather conditions. The downside is that you're gonna have to add oil more often, but that's easy. Just unscrew the tiny chain link schaft (it's missing in this video but it's screwed into the pin that was removed at 3:40, the chain being inside the hollow axle) and pour the oil into the hole in the axle. Then put the chain thingie back to where it was and you'll be able to again operate your gears
thank you for posting. I wish there was one for the 3 speed Torpedo with no coaster brake.
My Sutherland's book states that you should never put grease on the pawls but rather a high quality motor oil.
I'm plannng to make a video about that version of Torpedo, now I just have no time to shoot a proper video.
You will need a shifter an indicator chain and some other assorted hardware (like an anti-rotation washer for the axle) to get it working again. Consider buying a SRAM trim kit and shifter for their modern 3-speed hubs and giving it a go.
Thanks, I now know how inventive this system was.
Yes, indeed. Thank you for watching.
You're welcome. Stay tuned for the forthcoming hubs!
very good work Thakn You
At 5:01 you removed a washer ring that seems to be broken when I took apart the same Sachs. I wonder if there are still parts like this available because I can’t really find any here in bicycle heaven Holland. (Beside buying a complete old bike with the same Sachs and remove the whole rear wheel which is an expensive and overkill option in my opinion)
GREAT VIDEO! Thanks!
thank you for the upload it was very useful !!!!
Thank you for a very pedagogic video. It helped me a lot. I have just one question. I did it exactly according to your instructions in the video. I placed the recently served wheel back on my bicycle. I tried to push the pedals with my hands in a forward direction when my bike was placed upside down. I noticed that when I released the pedals from my hands, they were still moving slightly (between 180 - 360 degrees), despite the fact that I did not give them any force. I suspect that the rotation in the internal hub is still giving the chain some force and moving the pedals slightly forward. Do you think this is because I tightened the outermost screw nuts too hard? Or do you have any other thoughts. Greetings from an amateur mechanic in Sweden.
Hey! Thanks for the awesome video!
I just disassembled a wheel like this, sadly only to find out that the bearings where gone. Do you know were I could buy replacements?
I would need both the two large ones and the small one that is within the pinion...
Hy,
I just dismanteld my T3 without brake only from the non drive side. On trying to reasambling it i have about 4 mm of play between the bearing and dust cap/washer.
Can't see what I am doing wrong here? Anny ideas someone?
where do I find replacement parts for this??
drfrisker junk yard, seriously.
Thanks for the video, I have a sachs torpedo, any advice on how to identify the model?
Hi! Same job to do, but I wonder what is the model of my hub. There is only numbers 36?
Thanks for the instructive video! Does anyone know where I can buy a spare ball bearing for the right hand side?
Hi, we have all parts on stock, and ship worldwide. Drop us an e-mail to info@chomabicycles.com if interested.
mine clicks loudly not like the normal clicking these hubs make and in first gear, the coaster brake engages while pedalling and jams the hub
I have the same issue
Deberías limpiar las partes antes de armar y engrasar. Buen post me ayudo en mis dudas
Fine. Thanks a lot. Now I have an idea how it works, but to really get it , i think i will have to disamble one by myself, and play with it for a while. There must have been some really smart guys 100 years ago. Why dont you use the audio?
Thank you. I had some problems with the audio track, and as I now see, the video should be better lit and set up too. Now I'd surely made it differently.
Great tutorial. I have an old bike I bought in 1987 when I was a kid. It has a 5 speed Sachs Pentasport hub with two toggle chains, one comming out on each side of the axle. It has worked for decades, treated and mistreated. I had it in for cleaning and oiling a bit over a year ago, I used the bike a lot since this summer. Last night something happened; the wheel suddenly froze, not completely but the wheel will not turn anymore. The black plastic cap on the left side looks like it gets pused out by some part inside the hub. I so hope this can be repaired. Is it very different from the 3 speeds?
turtlefromthenorth Hi, I assume your problem since has been solved, sorry for being late with the answer. For information, it's actually not too difficult to service Pentasport as well. For the problem you described it should been enough to loosen the left locknuts of the hub, take apart the brake part (exactly the same as the dreigang), clean it and put it back together in lubricants.
Hi
I braved up and opened the hub, and I discovered I had crushed the bearings completely. Luckily it wasn't very different from your 3 speed version. I went on ebay.de and took a chance on a replacement ring for the later S5 Sram hub, and it turned out the be the same as the one used on 3 speeds as well (at least the smaller diameter ring on the brake side is the same). Thank's for the video, it helped a lot :- )
Great video, it helps a lot! I have one question. How to get rid of squeaking brake? When I stop down the downhill, before I stop, I hear the screech, as if it's somewhere dry in. Any advice?
i found one of these hubs on an old bike and put on my bike. i tought it waz only a torpedo hub. i realized just now that is has gears too.
how can i use them?
Hello, I have a Sach's torpedo on an older (70's) CCM Tandem. It has started to slip at random (almost like going into neutral!) which is no fun. There seems to be a decent amount or play in the hub, as i can shift the wheel side to side a few mm quite easily. Any suggestions on a way to attack this?
First of all, check whether any of the counter locknuts are missing or loose on any side of the hub. There must be one on the dive side and two on the brake side. If drive side is loose, then tighten it until it stops, since it tightens against a shoulder on the axle, inside the hub. You might loosen left side nuts as well, then set up a comfortable yet tight bearing play, so you can't move the wheel side to side. When tis is done, you must set the gears properly. In another reply I explained how to do this. The main point is than in 1st gear (tightest) you should not be able to pull the indicator chain further out of the hub. If slip occurs after these quick fixes, then something mkght be worn inside the hub. After all, if there was such amount of sideplay, then you might check the amount of dust got into the internal mechanism, or eventually clean the whole thing as well. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Thank you for this useful video.
Just wondering: don't you put grease on the outside of the "brake shoe" (i am referring to the cylinder with the 2 tabs that engage into the brake arm assembly)?
Patrick Rombaux Actually you should. This video is now old, I made this when I was able to service only three speeds, and developed the methods since then to another level. I recommend to use three types of lubricant for these hubs, each suitable for the mechanism, bearings and brake surface. At the forementioned contact point actually you shall lubricate the brake cone properly, this way the slots also get some, which is plenty.
Do you know where you can get spares? Specifically the larger ball race for a Brompton/Sachs hub? Thanks
Who is maker of this Cycle gear system. Where it will be available.... ???
Sachs
hundredfold thanks for upload!
Tankachoin 👍 Nice 🚴good. Tankyu,,👍👍👍👍🔧
Is there sound in the video?
Hi what is the tool you first use to get the safety nuts off?
thanks.
do you know someone who sells something of these?
And where goes the gear wire ?
A small chain goes into the side of it
Sachs 3 Gang-Nabe S, Typ H3111 / H3131
2 huge mistakes:
DO NOT put grease on the brake guide (that screw like thing) and on the paws, only use thin oil for those parts.
redkawa636 Thanks for the advice. This is actually a compound grease which is thin enough to not stick the pawls or the brake cone. I also made some alterations on my mix since this video, and planning to make an updated version.
great video, but I'm afraid he's right. A 82 year old bike mechanic tought me the ropes. He repaired bikes for over 60 years! Ball bearings with grease, all other parts with thin oil. You won't believe how smooth things will run! And don't forget the nice clicking sound these old hubs make.. only when you use oil. But I have to add that everybody has their own way, with equal good results.
Is this why my brakes now sound strange?..Why not make another video that doesnt leave people with bikes that don't work properly. I also had trouble with the gear chain that was stuck and how to tighten the wheel the right way, without play... You left that out...🤔
make more videos!!!
Bonjour 👍 je,i Cher che. ,⚙️Moyeux. Torpedo. Dreygan modelo. 55 Made. In. Germany 👍 7 tankachoyne⚙️🚴👍👍👍👍👍🔧very. Good
Ennyi zsírt kb. 20 db ilyen agyváltónál használok el...
Ez kb. 1,2-1,3 ml zsírt jelentene agyváltónként, mivel csapágyakon kívül máshová nem érdemes 100% zsírt tenni. Szerintem ez igen kevés, de mindenki más módszerrel és irányelvek alapján dolgozik. Ellenben nem értem, hogy a kevesebb mennyiség milyen előnyökkel jár, szívesen venném, ha elmagyarázná mindannyiunk okulására.
Természetesen elmagyarázom.
A megjegyzésem nem sértésnek szántam... Rengeteg agyváltóval volt már dolgom, a felújításról készült albumokat itt plus.google.com/photos/105553774255379311775/albums?banner=pwa meg lehet nézni, látszik rajtuk szerintem, hogy nem szoktam elkapkodni velük a munkát... Ez számomra inkább hobbi, szenvedély.
Tehát: Gyári ajánlás szerint : www.scheunenfun.de/schmierplan.htm (alul a PDF-ben) csak a gyolyóskosarak és a fék kap zsírt, miden más csak jó minőségű olajat, jó sokat...
A zsír, főleg a sok zsír iszonyatosan össze tud állni, és csúnya dolgokat művel. Ennyi zsír már új állapotban is megakadályozza a hibátlan működést...
Boross Károly Köszönöm a választ. Az említett mennyiség ettől függetlenül nekem még mindig nagyon kevésnek tűnik, de ez egy másik történet. Az olajzószemes váltóknál hasonlóképpen szoktam eljárni, de ahol ilyesmi nincs, ott használom a videón is látható keveréket, ami kb. 8-10%-ban tartalmaz zsírt, kb. 80%-ban olajat, valamint a fennmaradó részben önkenő műanyagadalékot. Az Imotion 9, vagy a Shimano agyak gyári zsírja hasonlít az állagára, illetve a tulajdonságaira, eddig ez jött be legjobban, a tapasztalatok alapján nyáron nem folyik ki és télen nem dermed le.
Sajnos láttam már pár zsírban forgó, halálközeli váltót, többek között egy SG7R45-ből és pár S7-esből mostam ki épphogy nem szilárd állagú, egybekötött trutyit, így teljes mértékben egyetértek a mechanika zsírmentesítésével, különösképpen 3 sebesség fölött.
A fotódokumentáció egyébként jó ötlet, az elején, amikor még nem volt ennyi, én is csináltam néhányról, de most már kicsit "szalagjellegűvé" vált a dolog, így nem sok időm maradt rá.
Érdekelnek viszont ezek a széles kerekek. Én ugyan leginkább fekvőbicikliben vagyok otthon, de mindig kíváncsi voltam a lowriderekre is. Ezek milyen típusú kerekek?
Ha ez az anyag olaj- zsír ilyen összetételű keveréke, az már más !
A felvételen nem olyannak tűnt.
A kerekekről:
Ezek 24" és 26"-os kerekek, 65-80-100 mm széles felnikkel, cruiserekbe készülnek .
Német- angol gyártóktól szoktuk beszerezni.
Boross Károly Persze, ez attól még egy viszonylag sűrű anyag, viszont nem dermed le, ez jórészt a POM keverék miatt van, de ez még megérne egy vizsgálatot. Póbálkoztam más arányokkal is, de eddig ez vált be legjobban.
A kerekek mennyire strapabíróak? Elképzelhető esetleg, hogy teherkerékpárhoz is lehetne alkalmazni őket?
Thank you!
Watched other videos. Already thought that I had lost some details)))
Very informative)
Morgan. 👍🚴Je,i Cher che. ⚙️Moyeux. Torpedo Frei gang. Saches mod. 55 ave. Germany👍👍👍👍Thanks. You
Helped me a lot!
Dziekuje / Thanks
To najlepszy film o Sram 3 Gang. Też korzystam.
Thanks 👍 you. Nice. Good🚴💯Merci. Bocu
Just perfect! Silence is golden!
Muito obrigado.:)
Hi,
First you must get sure that your hub is really a T3 and not a duomatic, what for you won't need indicator chain. For T3 I think most bigger bike shops could help, but if you can't find any, I can send you several versions with clamps and shifters as well.
How can I remove the break, I think I have to use a special washer. Right?
My internal pin with thread to hold the chain/shifting indicator (here at 3:40 ) broke. Do you know if a spare Sturmey pin could replace this?
Hi, Unfortunately the thread is different. You might replace it with a sturmey, however you have to file it down to size. Best solution is to replace it with an original one. I don't know where you situated, but I can send you one if it worth the shipping cost.
Great Job. Question: Do you know where I can buy the 3 ball bearings?
you just buy dozens of 3/16 and 7/32" carbon steel balls, and keep the original cages. Just don't mix the balls, all old out, all new in.
Great video! Any chance to could please tell me how to adjust the cable?
Of course. As Sram advises too, you shall tighten the cable just taut in 3rd speed. Then change to 1st and check whether you can pull the chain out any more further. If so, then retighten the cable.
Actually if it's an old, dirty hub or very thin dropout, you might overtighten the cable. In this case you won't be able to shift properly, and shall loosen the cable a few twists until smoth shifting is achieved.
It's also important you shall never shift under load, not even when your LBS states that it's o.k. It shortens the lifespan of the hub.