Aikon Electronics F7 60A All In One - IMPRESSIVE :)

Not just any AIO board here ;)
Link: www.aikon-electronics.com/ind...
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/ dutchrc
Equipent I use:
Frsky Tandem X20: bit.ly/3iJLaxg
Radiomaster TX16S mkII: bit.ly/3oTcADe
Orqa FPV.One FPV Goggle: bit.ly/3dXwOaw
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+ DJI Action 2
+ GoPro Hero8 Black
+ GoPro Hero9 Black
+ GoPro Hero10 Black
+ Insta360 ONE R
Tools:
+ Mustool MT826 Multimeter: goo.gl/t7UwWi
+ TS100 portable soldering iron: goo.gl/3w8oCk
+ ToolCraft ST-100D soldering station
+ Steinel Gluematic 3002 hotglue gun
+ several Dremel's
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[@DutchRC]

Not just any AIO board here ;)
Link: www.aikon-electronics.com/index.php?id=40

[@MCsCreations]

Awesome review, dude! 😃
Looks like a fantastic FC!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@DutchRC]

Thanks as always brother :)
Hope to fly the quad in the coming days! :D
Cheers and have a good week over there

[@nickvledder]

60A … per motor or for whole the board?

[@DutchRC]

that's per motor (it kinda always is...)

[@abdurachmanbustaman1865]

Do You have best tune for that FC, cause im using this fc with geprc 6S motor 2105.5 2650kv, and its give me a problem when i arming int he first time the quad seem like over power but after wait few second its getting steady and fly . im still looking what is the problem is it tune for gyro bmi or the kv motor seem to high for 6s.

[@DutchRC]

It is impossible the have a "best tune for a FC".. the quad / weight / propellors / how you fly makes Much more of a difference for the tune.
From you said I think your quad needs more filtering though.. On the filtering-tab push both slider at the top a bit to the left

[@donphobos]

AOS 5" should have 25,5 mm pattern.

[@DutchRC]

well there you go :) that should be a great match :)

[@szaboimre8374]

hello! how 10v 1.5A voltage regulator for DJI HD system??? como regular? un saludo, gracias

[@DutchRC]

Yeah should be enmough I'd say? I've flown it a lot in the last months so I guess it IS ;)

[@BertRoer]

what is the outside size?

[@DutchRC]

sorry Jitse.. I don't have this quad anymore :$

[@runpuppyfpv5744]

Would you still recomend this ?

[@DutchRC]

if it fits your build well, then yes! This quad is still doing great :)

[@StraitD2]

It's a great board and all, but it's useless if there's no frames to fit it. There's absolutely ZERO documentation on it, and no wiring diagrams. Worst board for beginners, and the mounting options are extremely limited. I bought this board, and I have had more issues trying to fit it to a frame, figure out it's compatibilities, and size it than what should be necessary.

[@DutchRC]

Yeah.. seems to me they made this board specifically for a quad they were developing (a heavier Cinewhoop) BUT we do see more & more frames that take a whoop-style board...

[@StraitD2]

@@DutchRC I love the design, features, and AIO board. However, i'm a bit annoyed. (posting the rest of this info for anyone else in my same predicament) I haven't been able to use it yet, due to mounting hole issues, it's an odd mounting size, it's in a diamond shape and arrow has to face forward on the frame for the accelarometer, so almost no options to use with any frames without modifying the frame itself. Then, I am limited to a frame that has the option for power to be ran through the back of the quad frame to the board (I have the AxisFlying Manta 6" FPV Freestyle Deadcat mid-range cinematic frame. The battery lead holes through the frame are in the front of the frame, right behind the GoPro camera mount, but this AIO board has the +/- solder points at the back of the board.Due to RF signal interferences, you do not want to run the battery lead wires close under or over the flight controller, so have to route it around somehow.) When mounting the board, I ran into the issue of soft mounting and even hard mounting, because there is not enough room to mount any hardware without it hitting against capacitors and other transistors, etc on the board. Not good. Need more mounting space around the mounting holes. I attempted first to drill mounting holes in a diamond shape of this Aikon flight controller on the Manta 6" frame, but ran into issues, because this specific frame has a piezo buzzer and LED light and 3D printed frame mounted directly under the flight controller, so to do so, would mean sacrificing the LED light and buzzer in case I lose the drone, or mount it elsewhere, which is no issue for me, just throws the design off some.

[@DutchRC]

@@StraitD2 you do know that arrow on the board doesn't have to face forward?? You can simply change the direction in the gyro settings of Betaflight (or any other flight controller firmware)..
So a 45 degree rotation so the FC fits in your quad is no problem.. Anyhow.. there are by now lots of frames that can use these whoop-style FC's

[@reimontes666]

@@StraitD2 im super noob and even i know fc mounting is irrelevant see betaflight fc position

[@serval_fpv]

Thx for the heads up just what I was looking for I'm going to skip it..