Design AND Print your own PRINT IN PLACE - Feat. Creality K1

The secrets to successfully printing a Print in place model (PIP) revealed!
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In this video we'll have a look at some successful PIP models from Printables.com and then use those techniques to design our own to print on the Creality K1 Printer.
Lots of people have had problems with printing these kinds of models, and I have as well. There are so many settings on a printer which impact the final product, there are also design details that impact the parts quite a bit as well. We'll review the most important parts of both to come up with a design that will print well even on poorly tuned 3d Printers.
The model we design is a fairly simple hinge which fixes a common problem on the Coleman Coolers. The hinge requires no supports, it has proper bridging, nice clearances, and it is free as soon as it is removed from the buildplate.
As mentioned in video:
www.printables.com/model/6053...
Geared Hinge:
www.printables.com/model/1207...
Cable Winder:
www.printables.com/model/5642...
If you're interested in checking out Bambu / Creality Printers and filament, here is my affiliate link (a small portion of any sales helps fund future videos):
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
Link to hinge STL file:
www.patreon.com/user/shop/pri...
If you are struggling with problems and you need help, send me an email or write in the comments.
#ender3
#bambu
#3dprinting

[@TechieSewing]

Thanks for the video! There are surprisingly few videos about both designing and printing print-in-place models :)

[@joell439]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Thank YOU!

[@andyb7754]

Very good informational video, thank you.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Glad you liked it, I'll have many many more to come!

[@frankdearr2772]

Great topic, thanks 👍

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@sierraecho884]

The teardrop hole design significantly weakens the part by increasing "notching effect" this is not a good idea. I designed my own print in place hinges and printed them vertically instead with a round shaft, layer orientation is not optimal but runout is great and I used PETG so layer bond is pretty good.

[@tymoteuszkazubski2755]

Elephant foot is slicer/printer issue and should be eliminated there not in the model.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I like to keep in mind that not everyone is at the same skill level, not all slicers are alike and the list goes on. It is better to design in such a way for the best chance of success no matter what. If you've posted any designs, you'll know that regardless of how good your design is, there are people who will struggle. If you can reduce the problems by addressing it in the design, it'll be better for everyone. Adding a chamfer is pretty simple after all.
That's my philosophy anyway, to each their own.

[@senseisecurityschool9337]

Given these two designs, which one would you prefer?:
1. A design that is very sensitive and will fail if there is any elephants foot.
2. A design that works well regardless.
When you know that a design will fail if there's any foot, it just takes a couple seconds to add a little chamfer to the bottom of the critical part and then you have a foolproof model rather than a finicky one.