If it is AFM equiped and actually has a Collapsed/stuck AFM lifter. That is a direct injection engine though so it has a lot of extra things to consider beyond just the lifter. The Direct injection engines after 2014 are prone to other issues such as: -Bent pushrod from factory interference with hole in head and/or spring on AFM lifter, or internal lifter failure/blowout that caused it to bind/wedge. (This has the same symptom as a collapsed lifter in many cases) -Chewed up cam lobe and lifter roller. This is caused by the soft metal the newer cam is made of and I recommend a full AFM delete at this point. The symptom from this is a light ticking in most cases. -Collapsed AFM lifter. This happens on the direct injection engines usually because the VLOM is leaking pressure into the oil towers when it shouldn't. The VLOM mod I do it pretty much needed on these models. I have a video exclusive just for this VLOM unit th-cam.com/video/vwdINEsyYL4/w-d-xo.html -Broken timing chain tensioner. Not that common but worth a mention One last thing to note is on DFM. In 2019-2021 they started to implement a system called DFM. The DFM or Direct Fuel Management controls all 8 cylinders instead of only 4 like AFM does. This system to my knowledge wont allow my products to work with it. It has 8 separate solenoids bolted into the block instead of 4 solenoids in a VLOM assembly. It still functions the same but with twice the AFM lifters. It's still unclear as to the reliability of these but I do know they still bend pushrods occasionally. If anyone reads this within driving range of southern South Dakota with one needing service, I would love to crack it open and will give a discount to the first one I get a chance to work on.
Got an ‘08 Silverado with a sticky lifter. Really stuck the other day so I had to pull the valve cover off and have someone crank the starter while tapping on the lifter side of the rocker arm. Popped pretty easily. Waiting on an HP Tuners unit so I can disable it totally.
07 Tahoe police fleet truck 187k #5 cyl. Flushed twice, didn't help.then used long Phillips. Popped up on 3rd tap. Super cleaned screens and channels in valley cover, reassemble, stuck again. Replaced all lifters on passenger side. I think I know what I did wrong. I left the rocker on and didn't let it expand all the way. Either way awesome trick. Put 20k on it since ,cheers
What you did wrong was not turning off the system. If you haven't turned it off yet, you should. These systems once failed tend to fail again within the first year or two after lifter replacement.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oh damn I didn't ad that part . I did send my ecu off to a reputable speed shop and had the did flashed out. So it is full time 8
2012 escalade 100k mile 6.2 dod vvt engine knocks/ticks on start up. 99% gone after driving for 5 minutes. Stethoscope picks up the noise on driver side block just under the head. All rockers moving and 200 psi compression on driver side cylinders. Exhaust manifold bolts tight. Any ideas sir?
This doesn't apply to those. You might have a leaking intake gasket and exhaust manifold gasket on that year actually. Best test for those is to use 3m brake clean around intake while cold to see if it smooths out from vacuum leak. Also for tick look for broken exhaust manifold bolts that might be causing exhaust leak.
Great video and very smart of you to come up with a tool for helping with this issue. I have a 2013 Suburban with 110k on it and no problems yet. A couple of years ago I bought a module that plugs into the OBD port and shuts off the AFM system. Would this take the place of the tuning that you mention? Also if I am not currently experiencing a problem, what might I do to help prevent it? I have always used full synthetic oil but I am wondering if shortening my changes from 5000 miles to 2500 will help prevent this from becoming a full blown problem. I am interested in your thoughts. Thx
I have a weird one for you. What are your thoughts on the following?...I have a 2007 Suburban with the iron block 5.3L. 328K miles. Never had any issues with the engine other than oil leaks and oil consumption. I did the updated valve cover, AFM shield and cylinder soak at 202K miles. This helped considerably with oil consumption but lately, I've been seeing oil consumption with blue smoke at startup. I bought valve stem seals a while back and decided to install them today. Went through the proper procedures to install the seals and torque the rocker bolts. Turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything looked good. Started the vehicle and it was apparent immediately that there was a misfire. Ended up being cylinder #7. Pulled and reseated the plug wire and the misfire was gone and the engine ran perfectly. Revved to about 3K RPM and instantly got a lifter tick on the LH side. Pulled the valve cover and #7 exhaust has about 1/8 of movement when the valve is supposed to be fully closed. It never went into V4 move as it was only idling in my driveway. I did a quick drive around the neighborhood to see if the switch to V4 mode would fix the issue but it did not. However, when in V4 mode, the tick completely goes away so the lifter is still collapsing in V4 mode but doesn't appear to be fully opening. I pulled the valve cover and removed the #1 and #7 exhaust rockers and the #7 push rod sits about 1/4" lower than #1. I checked the push rod and it's perfectly straight. It still runs great and has no misfires. I'm at a loss as to how the valve stem seal replacement process could have caused this. Certainly it can't be a coincidence.
Great video. I have a 2008 Suburban with a misfire on cylinder 1, so I pulled the valve cover after testing spark plugs, wires, etc. The very first lifter is not moving like the rest but the rocker arm is not loose either. I tried turning the engine over, an the arm is still not lose. I assume the lifter is stuck, but I’m confused on why the rocker arm is not loose like all of your other videos. Any ideas?
Love your videos, they gave me the confidence to do plenty things on my truck so far. I got a 07 Escalade with 144k on it. It was badly neglected by the previous owner. It's got the tick and low oil pressure. So far I have changed the oil to Mobil 1 5w-30, changed the oil pressure sensor and filter, new plugs and wires, deleted the air ride and active suspension, and changed the motor mounts. My next project is to drop the pan and change the O-ring and finally order your tool and free the lifter if I have one stuck. I have Torque pro, and it did not detect a misfire. My question is, do I have AFM/DOD to delete and what else do you suggest if I eventually want to swap the cam to a stage 2 and tune?
Hey I have a repair shop in East Central Minnesota. I have been wrenching on cars for almost 20 years now and i have learned to say the least a few very useful things from your videos. I recently purchased and used the "stuck lifter" tool and the vlom plug for 2012 silverado 5.3l the tool and plug worked as they should but my question for you is..... Where can I get the necessary "pcm tune" done at?
Pretty amazing approach to repairing a collapsed lifter. I enjoy the part where you explain how or what caused the lifter collapse in the first place. Avoiding the trouble spots and a repair would be my first choice.
I have a 2010 Yukon XL with P0308 misfiring. I understand its not one of the afm cylinders but I do have that ticking noise. I will have to pull the head to replace that lifter but can that bad lifter be causing low oil pressure?
I just traded for a silverado and it has a tick not horrible but it still ticks I used tranmission fluid in the oil and it helped some but should I run 10w 30 oil or the 5w 30 oil the is recommended? Thanks
My 2015 Silverado ended up being a bent pushrod...lifters look good...so if this happens to you simply take valve cover off and rocker arm..check for bent pushrod ...if bent try changing pushrod first and see if does the trick...don't go straight to this hack...could be a defective pushrod...but I didn't know so I tore it down...since it's apart I'm changing lifters on cylinder that had bent pushrod...good luck...hopefully you will check pushrod instead of taking it all apart...
Colossal fail! Going for the drive and hard driving it OF COURSE is quiet! The noise ALWAYS goes away after the engine warms up on this trucks. The real test would have been to let it sit over night and see how it sounds again after it's completely cold and the oil in the pan. I call this one a colossal fail, with insufficient proof or testing demonstrated that the left over noise was actually fixed, since the video was cut short.
If yours makes noise at startup and not so much warmed up its most likely a broken manifold bolt. I have a seperate video for that issue. With all due respect, the fail is on you.
I've been putting in 1 qt of Type F ATF fluid in my oil changes (Mobil 1 Syn.) for about two years now. To help to clean the old oil out. I just bought a 2008 with 183,000 and I've got an 2011 with 141,000. Your thoughts?
That is good practice every so often but I would not do it at every oil change. I would also get the system turned off on the vehicles you purchased before attempting any type of flush.
@@justinlandis5672 Not at the moment, I am trying to get situated to move to SD. I do have a list of shops that claim willing to do AFM repairs listed on my website though.
I cannot thank you enough for this video and the tool to perform the repair. I was quoted between $5-$8,000 to fix or replace my engine. These were options that I could not afford, so I went online to find options and happened upon your video. My mechanic was very skeptical that this would work, but the worst that would have happened is that I was back where I started. The work was much less complicated than I thought and the results are amazing! The truck starts and runs smoothly. The power delivery is better, and the transmission seems to shift better than before. THANK YOU THANK YOU! If anyone is on the fence, take the dive. What do you have to lose?
These comments make my day. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and leave this comment It means a lot. I really need to get back to posting more videos.
i had a 350 with a cylinder #8 exhaust side sticky lifter. same sound and everything. i ended up giving it a little load and went up hill and threw it in 5th and had it bog. worked like a charm
I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 with 5.3 and cylinder 3 misfire only at idle. New plugs, wires, injectors, intake gaskets and cleaned intake valves. Compression test showed good compression on all cylinders even #3. Swapped coil packs but misfire remained at #3. Getting a new pack tomorrow just in case and next step is to take valve cover off and see. Any thoughts? Could this technique work for this year engine?
I live in Texas and my Silverado has the lifter tap also. But only in the cold winter months, and only until the engine warms up. No loss of power or check engine light either. I'm lost.
I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado and I think my lifter is collapsed it happened when I was on the interstate going about 65 in an 70 so of course me being impatient I stepped on it and once I hit 73 stability track and traction control lights went off and now it shakes real bad and I used a code reader and I get P0306 and P0206 I have changed all spark plugs and even Fuel injector and still no Change to the truck 😩
That’s the throttle body position sensor. Or it was in mine anyways. It was replaced for free because I was under 110,000 miles. You probably figured out by now
I have a 2013, 5.3 Silverado with a misfire on number four only at idle. I checked the compression and It is low on four. It was 127 dry and about fourty pounds higher wet. No ticking and all lifters are moving fine, I pulled the valve cover to confirm. About a year ago I had an episode with the same cylinder misfiring with the valve noise. After running for a while with the Range disabler it stopped naking the lifter noise, so I had it tuned and all seemed fine until now. Have you seen this before??
Replacing lifters with stock AFM lifters is a temporary fix. The lifters don't fail on there own it's an underlying issue related to oil pressure. Pretty sure I did the engine light on purpose and explained why. You should pay attention. I explained a tune is needed to shut off the AFM.
I have a 2015 gmc 5.3. Bought truck as a project cuz it was diagnosed from previous owner from a couple mechanics shops as a stuck lifter. The truck has no engine code but there is a slight miss on cinder 7 noticed after looking at live data with .y friends scan tool. It sounds almost like an exhaust leak or cylinder pressure being pushed out somewhere. My other friend was wondering if it could be pushing back out the intake because of a stuck lifter causi g that noise but there is no tick or clack or knock. Can you have a stuck or collapsed or partially collapsed lifter with no knock or tick but just the air noise?
You might have a manifold leak and a lifter failure. Check to see all manifold bolts are in place. Then check compression. You could have a spun or stuck lifter but see my long video for diagnosis.
I've watched like 3 of your videos and I still dont understand how this is working... I need to see a cut away or a drawing or something to see what is going on here and how this in fixing the stuck lifter. I'd love to be able to do this for some people who don't have the funds to get lifter replaced.
Contact me on my website. But basically it works like when you have a bolt stuck in a socket. Set the socket on the concrete, wack the side of it with a hammer and the bolt is no longer stuck. I can get you a picture of a cutaway if you pm me at crazedperformancerepair.com
I have a '15 silverado 5.3 . Shortly after Thanksgiving 2020 I blew a headgasket. While inside the motor figured I'd replace all the lifters as well. I've had the DOD turned off for almost the whole time I've had the truck, since 2018 with 27k on it and now she's almost at 100k. Two weeks ago I had a misfire in cylindar #6. Towed her home and started troubleshooting . Hoping it would be the coilpack because the packs were the only thing I didn't replace on the "headgasket rebuild "... It wasn't. Looks like a colapst brand new GM lifter ! The rocker doesn't move while engine is running and when it's off there's a ton of slop rocking back and forth on the rocker . Telling me it's a colapst lifter or a damaged cam. Oh and the rod looked fine as well . I guess my confusion comes from the fact that I don't have the DOD active . I went ahead and ordered your "premium tool kit " for the lifter. Havnt really decided if I want to use it or if it's even meant for a 2014-2018 GM gen 5 LT 5.3 engine. Im considering a complete delete, cam n all. Just not sure if I want to take that big of a project on right now. Any advice ?
@CrazedPerformanceRepair okay so figured out my exhaust valve isn't fully seating. No.compression. But when I back off the rocker arm bolt it seats fine with plenty compression. I even strarted the truck and it ran great. What should I do??
You prob have to pull the head. The valve might be sunk in the head or something. Check valve stem height and compare it to the others. If it's sitting higher then the rest it has sunken in or worn out.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair wasn't the valve. Took the head back off and replaced the other lifter in that cylinder and boom ran great. Idk what was going on because that lifter looked fine. The other one was visibly collapsed. But I guess both were bad.
Did you neglect to do the VLOM mod and the tune? If not, did you check if the lifter was rotated from a bad plastic guide? You can message me on my website by the way. I always do my best to take care of my customers.
I picked up an LS engine with that same problem ( tick but no collapsed lifter). The tick was from metal that wore away on the lifter roller and chewed up the cam lobe.
I have an 08 Tahoe that has #4 Intake lifter collapsing at start up causing a mis-fire. I have replaced all the DOD lifters on bank 2, # 3 Intake two times using OEM lifters same thing happens. Lasted about 300 miles. Any suggestions?
That doesn't make since they don't collapse only at startup. You must have another issue? If it's a noise you hear at startup it could be exhaust manifold gasket. If it's actually misfiring there could be several things. Out of curiosity did the lifters have any damage to the rollers you pulled out? Might be best to message me this conversation on my website for a reply. I may miss your reply to this if it's on TH-cam. I don't always see the comments on TH-cam.
I have a bent pushrod in my 6.2L. 65k miles. would your process and tool work for me? I had to drive with the bent pushrod and tapping for about 200 miles.
If it's post 2014 I offer a replacement puchrod to solve that issue. You need to make make sure lifter is still in tact though. Message me at crazedperformancerepair.com for more details.
With a magnet, I was able to pull out the top half of the #7 intake DoD lifter (spring and cap cup). So it separated. Seems the bent pushrod beat up the lifter top I pulled the head and already have a new DOD lifter in there. No delete kit, just going to sell it. I ordered your kit, but not going to need it now. Can I cancel and substitute a paypal gift? It was going to Madison, Alabama. Or, should I still shove that plug into the oil pressure screen area for added security?!
Did this particular vehicle tick all the time or just when it was cold ? I also have a po300 random misfire code but only have a lifter tick on a cold start and not all the time! Thank you for your videos on the 5.3.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you for the reply. do you have a option where I could pay you to listen to a short video and get your logical opinion ?
Mine only throws p0300 but my scanner shows massive amounts of misfires on cyl #3 and occasional on #2, i find it odd that it only throws the random code. Hoping theres something in this video to get mine back going haha
Don’t know if you’re still responding in 2023. But if you are, I discovered that I have a rocker arm that was not move AT ALL as all others were (with the truck running) unlike most I’ve ran across where you’re able to move rocker up and down by hand when lifter is faulty this one seems stuck in position. I unbolted the rocker .. let if run again with my finger on the pushrod and could feel it moving up and down so I don’t think cam is bad. I guess what I’m asking is have you ever ran across this , would your tool get this unstuck ..before I pull the head? Thanks in advance
Tool won't help. Could be that your lifter has spun The lifter could also be spun, using the starter relay with the key off, spin the engine over. Make sure not to jump the wrong terminals as it could damage the ECM. Vlom Must be on for this test. While it is spinning watch the suspected rocker move. Make sure that it rocks at least 6 to 7 times before you let up on the starter. If the rocker stops moving before then it is getting fed oil pressure and is likely spun. You can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair hmm…thanks for your response. That information definitely helps out big time ..I’m gonna take a look asap.. Side note…this is the second issue in a week I had with a collapsed lifter.. I replaced the first one which was in cylinder 4 . Changed head gaskets and all. After finishing it ran like a beast..felt a slight shudder every now and then …then just like that this issue is back…now cylinder 1.. but yea sounds like I could benefit from the delete AFM/DOD delete..although I would like to know what’s causing the computer to take out the lifter in the first place. Thanks I’ll try what you suggested.
Dear sir(s), I purchased a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 engine and have been experiencing problems with oil consumption, reduced power, AFM valve/lifter sticking on cylinder #1. I believe I qualify for remedy under your Class Action. Bradley K. Zierke v. General Motors LLC, et al., Case No. 0:16-cv-04170, in the U.S. District Court for the District of Minnesota. Can you assist me in obtaining any relief in this matter?
Because it will fail again unless the reason it failed is fixed. The only part that fails is on the AFM side of the lifter. It fails because of lack of oil pressure at the lifter to activate fast enough for the timing events. It's technically not even a collapsed lifter but that is the easiest way to explain it and how most people understand it.
Had some difficulty at first, asked Jesus for help and an idea popped into my head...add a few drops of "mouse milk" to each side...tapped it right out after adding the "annointing oil" of machines! 😅
Have an 09 gmc 5.3... starts up fine and smooth idles 35 psi oil pressure. Can drive it 30-40 miles and sounds like Mexican Roofers....No misfire....codes etc and oil pressure doesnt change!!!
Will that work on a 4.3 engine as well?? 2020 chevy express. I have like a valve noise around cyl 6 uppon acceleration and misfire that doesn't do the check light
If I gotta take it all apart anyways, I'm just gonna replace em all at one time and get another 300k before replacing again lol But this is still a good way to do a quick fix if you're strapped for time or money
All you really have to do for a collapsed lifter spray some transmission fluid in the air intake or right down through the carburetor engine in it intake why the it should bring them right back up if they don't come right back up then you have to replace them all you messed them up real bad
If I freed up the lifter and just put everything back together how long would it run before it's lifted collapsing again if it would ever collapse again? if I was not to do no mods?
You have to click the i/information button on the top right like I say in the video. When you do 3 videos show up. the first one th-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/w-d-xo.html is the full explanation.
I need help man, 07 suburban 5.3, misfire at idle only and no noise or ticking, checked with a scan tool and misfire counting on cylinder 2 and 5 I already changed plugs coil and wires still persisting.
Those aluminum 5.3 around the 2009 years have some serious piston slap noise on cold start up. Very embarrassing. I have two 09 Avalanches, the aluminum 5.3 sounds crazy on cold start up, just like your noise, the iron block has no noise. Once you warm up the engine, about 8 minutes of driving, noise gone. It causes no harm, just sounds stupid.
Backyard shade tree half-assed trick, not a reliable repair. This problem will come back. Refrain from performing this backward gimmick. This isn't the fix an actual auto repair shop can perform with a warranty. Shame on you for suggesting such a thing, gives mechanics everywhere a bad name.
Moreover engine flushes are dangerous. If one passage is blocked the others will soon follow. You also just sent all that dirt you punched through right into the lifter. Its an OK trick for your own car since it will likely cause problems down the road or manifest itself in toe other lifters but I wouldn't sell it to a customer the way you did in your video as you never described what you were really doing.
These were the original codes that it had b0710 bo267 b0561 u0140 p0300 p0521 p0573 p0307 I cleared them and rescanned then looked at live data it seemed odd that all fuel trims were staying at or very close to 0% even long term for some reason I couldn't find the misfire counter but check check engine light is on and I haven't driven it but once about a 1/2 mile it didn't flash when I drove it but showed no codes when I got back I will check the fuel pressure when I get ecm back in thanks again for the help
Inspect it. Besides, replacing a $5 or less pushrod but knowing the lifter released is totally worth it if did get damaged. No other easy way to tell when the stuck lifter releases.
Hi, Have a question: after this procedure and once the lifter is realased, what are the chace that it stock again if I use one ODM AFM disabler ? Thanks a lot for what you do for the GM community
I wish you would of shown how to actually position the tool down the hole. Which way should the angle face?! I appreciate the tips but man I’m scratching my head here and don’t want to go tapping anything without an answer to how to properly position this tool in my 06 envoy denalu
Hey thinking of buying a 2010 z71 5.3 , in a few days has a ticking sound during start up but test drove fine and acceleration fine , really curious about problem and worried about oil problems to deal with , has 147k mikes .. should I buy ? Easy fix or no ? Move on ?
That's probably just a leaking exhaust manifold from a broken bolt. Not to big of deal if you have a welder and ability to weld. Just be sure to disable AFM in the tune if you buy it.
Yes sort of, but it's not worth it. The 60° v6s that have AFM can I have the lifters replaced without pulling the head so it's not worth doing. Just replace the lifter and shut the system off or solve the wax oil pressure drain activation issue.
I just found that issue on my 15 silverado, what would happen if I just release the lifter? Do I have to plug that vlom? And or will the issue return if I dont? I have no engine knock, only small vibration , the check engine, and the stabilitrak light. I found the collapsed lifter on 7..my question remains...do I have to plug that VLOM oil thingie?? And if I don't will the issue reoccur??? Thank you for your great videos...excellent help my brutha
Hello there. I hava a Code P0302 on a 207 Tahoe (since is a piston that doesn´t have a AFM conected lifter) I wonder if I have to do this procedure? Thanks.
Loose VLOM bolts allow oil pressure to escape leading to a mis-timed deactivation event, this causes the lifter to hammer against the lobe and eventually stick. If you ever open this motor up do yourself a favor and get rid of the DOD system.
Lack of oil pressure during activation is the reason they fail. That is one way they lack the pressure they need to operate fast enough for timing events.
Why does GMC not do a recall if you have a problem l just bought a 2007 GMC Yukon SLT the sales manager told me the top end had been rebuilt runs great high mileage wish l new about the problems with these V8 engines l hate buying a vehicle have had it 3 months engine light came on 3 days ago hope l did not make a mistake buying the Yukon runs great so far no tick 😎 Doug
Because this issue doesn't effect safety but your wallet. They want what's in your wallet and can't have lawsuits. I suggest Turn the system off with someone like LT1swap.com before it happens again. Once it happens it's only a matter of time before it happens again. Could be days or months. They fail from lack of 26psi or greater at AFM part of the lifter during activation though. So a loose/restricted VLOM or low oil pressure and it will happen again.
Does this apply to a 2019 yukon xl 5.3.
If it is AFM equiped and actually has a Collapsed/stuck AFM lifter. That is a direct injection engine though so it has a lot of extra things to consider beyond just the lifter. The Direct injection engines after 2014 are prone to other issues such as:
-Bent pushrod from factory interference with hole in head and/or spring on AFM lifter, or internal lifter failure/blowout that caused it to bind/wedge. (This has the same symptom as a collapsed lifter in many cases)
-Chewed up cam lobe and lifter roller. This is caused by the soft metal the newer cam is made of and I recommend a full AFM delete at this point. The symptom from this is a light ticking in most cases.
-Collapsed AFM lifter. This happens on the direct injection engines usually because the VLOM is leaking pressure into the oil towers when it shouldn't. The VLOM mod I do it pretty much needed on these models. I have a video exclusive just for this VLOM unit th-cam.com/video/vwdINEsyYL4/w-d-xo.html
-Broken timing chain tensioner. Not that common but worth a mention
One last thing to note is on DFM. In 2019-2021 they started to implement a system called DFM. The DFM or Direct Fuel Management controls all 8 cylinders instead of only 4 like AFM does. This system to my knowledge wont allow my products to work with it. It has 8 separate solenoids bolted into the block instead of 4 solenoids in a VLOM assembly. It still functions the same but with twice the AFM lifters. It's still unclear as to the reliability of these but I do know they still bend pushrods occasionally. If anyone reads this within driving range of southern South Dakota with one needing service, I would love to crack it open and will give a discount to the first one I get a chance to work on.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepairwhy dose it need a tune?
@Brandon_obs_ls maybe out of factory. The factory settings aren't adequate for the hardware implemented. Who knows.
Got an ‘08 Silverado with a sticky lifter. Really stuck the other day so I had to pull the valve cover off and have someone crank the starter while tapping on the lifter side of the rocker arm. Popped pretty easily. Waiting on an HP Tuners unit so I can disable it totally.
07 Tahoe police fleet truck 187k #5 cyl. Flushed twice, didn't help.then used long Phillips. Popped up on 3rd tap. Super cleaned screens and channels in valley cover, reassemble, stuck again. Replaced all lifters on passenger side. I think I know what I did wrong. I left the rocker on and didn't let it expand all the way. Either way awesome trick. Put 20k on it since ,cheers
What you did wrong was not turning off the system. If you haven't turned it off yet, you should. These systems once failed tend to fail again within the first year or two after lifter replacement.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oh damn I didn't ad that part . I did send my ecu off to a reputable speed shop and had the did flashed out. So it is full time 8
Okay, if you did have it done then you must be right and it is just because you didn't pull the rocker off.
Goodness, that’s a bad tick
2012 escalade 100k mile 6.2 dod vvt engine knocks/ticks on start up. 99% gone after driving for 5 minutes. Stethoscope picks up the noise on driver side block just under the head. All rockers moving and 200 psi compression on driver side cylinders. Exhaust manifold bolts tight. Any ideas sir?
My truck has same noise but shaking really bad is possible to be fixed just doing that
The shake is the misfire from this situation see the full lifter release video linked in the corner of this one.
CrazedPerformanceRepair thankyou sir,
Hey man i have a 2002 chevy tahoe does the noise but no check engine ligth a shakes but one's get warm up a goes a way i can be driving it like that ?
This doesn't apply to those. You might have a leaking intake gasket and exhaust manifold gasket on that year actually. Best test for those is to use 3m brake clean around intake while cold to see if it smooths out from vacuum leak. Also for tick look for broken exhaust manifold bolts that might be causing exhaust leak.
Ok man thanks alot i will try that out with the brake cleaner a maby be that thanks and great videos man 👌
Im doing it rigth now but is just tick tick tick but one's warm up the noise go away
@@minecraftmaster6582 the tick might be exhaust manifold leak like I said. The brake clean is for rough running.
Collapsed #4 intake last week. This worked flawlessly. Bought the tool, got the tune done, drove 500 miles today with zero issues!
#4 me too a week ago, did you have a code for #4 ?
Exactly what mine is doing now, no CEL or misfires. It still runs decently but a bit sluggish.
Great video and very smart of you to come up with a tool for helping with this issue. I have a 2013 Suburban with 110k on it and no problems yet. A couple of years ago I bought a module that plugs into the OBD port and shuts off the AFM system. Would this take the place of the tuning that you mention? Also if I am not currently experiencing a problem, what might I do to help prevent it? I have always used full synthetic oil but I am wondering if shortening my changes from 5000 miles to 2500 will help prevent this from becoming a full blown problem.
I am interested in your thoughts. Thx
My 2013 reported the random misfire code. But it was cylinder #7 that had collapsed lifter. Your tool worked as advertised!
So mine has the tick but no check engine light at all runs perfectly?
@@19shawnshawn89 same
@@jgruen9854 mine ended up being the dod faling and my lifter made my cam dinner
I have a weird one for you. What are your thoughts on the following?...I have a 2007 Suburban with the iron block 5.3L. 328K miles. Never had any issues with the engine other than oil leaks and oil consumption. I did the updated valve cover, AFM shield and cylinder soak at 202K miles. This helped considerably with oil consumption but lately, I've been seeing oil consumption with blue smoke at startup. I bought valve stem seals a while back and decided to install them today. Went through the proper procedures to install the seals and torque the rocker bolts. Turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything looked good. Started the vehicle and it was apparent immediately that there was a misfire. Ended up being cylinder #7. Pulled and reseated the plug wire and the misfire was gone and the engine ran perfectly. Revved to about 3K RPM and instantly got a lifter tick on the LH side. Pulled the valve cover and #7 exhaust has about 1/8 of movement when the valve is supposed to be fully closed. It never went into V4 move as it was only idling in my driveway. I did a quick drive around the neighborhood to see if the switch to V4 mode would fix the issue but it did not. However, when in V4 mode, the tick completely goes away so the lifter is still collapsing in V4 mode but doesn't appear to be fully opening. I pulled the valve cover and removed the #1 and #7 exhaust rockers and the #7 push rod sits about 1/4" lower than #1. I checked the push rod and it's perfectly straight. It still runs great and has no misfires. I'm at a loss as to how the valve stem seal replacement process could have caused this. Certainly it can't be a coincidence.
Great video. I have a 2008 Suburban with a misfire on cylinder 1, so I pulled the valve cover after testing spark plugs, wires, etc. The very first lifter is not moving like the rest but the rocker arm is not loose either. I tried turning the engine over, an the arm is still not lose. I assume the lifter is stuck, but I’m confused on why the rocker arm is not loose like all of your other videos. Any ideas?
Love your videos, they gave me the confidence to do plenty things on my truck so far. I got a 07 Escalade with 144k on it. It was badly neglected by the previous owner. It's got the tick and low oil pressure. So far I have changed the oil to Mobil 1 5w-30, changed the oil pressure sensor and filter, new plugs and wires, deleted the air ride and active suspension, and changed the motor mounts. My next project is to drop the pan and change the O-ring and finally order your tool and free the lifter if I have one stuck. I have Torque pro, and it did not detect a misfire. My question is, do I have AFM/DOD to delete and what else do you suggest if I eventually want to swap the cam to a stage 2 and tune?
Great video! And I subscribed to your channel. Thank you for helping so many people.
Hey I have a repair shop in East Central Minnesota. I have been wrenching on cars for almost 20 years now and i have learned to say the least a few very useful things from your videos. I recently purchased and used the "stuck lifter" tool and the vlom plug for 2012 silverado 5.3l the tool and plug worked as they should but my question for you is..... Where can I get the necessary "pcm tune" done at?
Pretty amazing approach to repairing a collapsed lifter. I enjoy the part where you explain how or what caused the lifter collapse in the first place. Avoiding the trouble spots and a repair would be my first choice.
keep clean oil in your car & it will not happen
It this hole procedure does not last
@@cjjorge6636bs
I have a 2010 Yukon XL with P0308 misfiring. I understand its not one of the afm cylinders but I do have that ticking noise. I will have to pull the head to replace that lifter but can that bad lifter be causing low oil pressure?
I just traded for a silverado and it has a tick not horrible but it still ticks I used tranmission fluid in the oil and it helped some but should I run 10w 30 oil or the 5w 30 oil the is recommended? Thanks
Didn't work for me , locking pins don't engage ,dum sss engine by government motors
Can dirty oil cause a collapsed lifter?
I just ordered this tool. I wanna give it a try, I have a stuck lifter on cylinder 6 of 08 Yukon Denali
name
How did you just take off cover to get to rockers with out taking everything els apart?????
My 2015 Silverado ended up being a bent pushrod...lifters look good...so if this happens to you simply take valve cover off and rocker arm..check for bent pushrod ...if bent try changing pushrod first and see if does the trick...don't go straight to this hack...could be a defective pushrod...but I didn't know so I tore it down...since it's apart I'm changing lifters on cylinder that had bent pushrod...good luck...hopefully you will check pushrod instead of taking it all apart...
wish I read this comment before tearing into mine.
Anyone know if this and the tune is legal in California for smog purposes?
Colossal fail! Going for the drive and hard driving it OF COURSE is quiet! The noise ALWAYS goes away after the engine warms up on this trucks. The real test would have been to let it sit over night and see how it sounds again after it's completely cold and the oil in the pan. I call this one a colossal fail, with insufficient proof or testing demonstrated that the left over noise was actually fixed, since the video was cut short.
If yours makes noise at startup and not so much warmed up its most likely a broken manifold bolt. I have a seperate video for that issue.
With all due respect, the fail is on you.
I've been putting in 1 qt of Type F ATF fluid in my oil changes (Mobil 1 Syn.) for about two years now. To help to clean the old oil out. I just bought a 2008 with 183,000 and I've got an 2011 with 141,000. Your thoughts?
That is good practice every so often but I would not do it at every oil change. I would also get the system turned off on the vehicles you purchased before attempting any type of flush.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair do you have a shop open
@@justinlandis5672 Not at the moment, I am trying to get situated to move to SD. I do have a list of shops that claim willing to do AFM repairs listed on my website though.
Mine does not have the DOD but still has a bad lifter which seems to be everywhere im convinced that these motors are not worth owning.
I have a 2017 silverado went on a long road trip will the release tool work ? Much differences in the new generation?
I cannot thank you enough for this video and the tool to perform the repair. I was quoted between $5-$8,000 to fix or replace my engine. These were options that I could not afford, so I went online to find options and happened upon your video. My mechanic was very skeptical that this would work, but the worst that would have happened is that I was back where I started. The work was much less complicated than I thought and the results are amazing! The truck starts and runs smoothly. The power delivery is better, and the transmission seems to shift better than before. THANK YOU THANK YOU! If anyone is on the fence, take the dive. What do you have to lose?
These comments make my day. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and leave this comment It means a lot. I really need to get back to posting more videos.
Chevy Love Doctor
lol
Just did this on my 6.2l, worked like a charm!
i had a 350 with a cylinder #8 exhaust side sticky lifter. same sound and everything. i ended up giving it a little load and went up hill and threw it in 5th and had it bog. worked like a charm
I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 with 5.3 and cylinder 3 misfire only at idle. New plugs, wires, injectors, intake gaskets and cleaned intake valves. Compression test showed good compression on all cylinders even #3. Swapped coil packs but misfire remained at #3. Getting a new pack tomorrow just in case and next step is to take valve cover off and see. Any thoughts? Could this technique work for this year engine?
what prevents it from collapsing again? good video
I live in Texas and my Silverado has the lifter tap also. But only in the cold winter months, and only until the engine warms up. No loss of power or check engine light either. I'm lost.
I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado and I think my lifter is collapsed it happened when I was on the interstate going about 65 in an 70 so of course me being impatient I stepped on it and once I hit 73 stability track and traction control lights went off and now it shakes real bad and I used a code reader and I get P0306 and P0206 I have changed all spark plugs and even Fuel injector and still no Change to the truck 😩
That’s the throttle body position sensor. Or it was in mine anyways. It was replaced for free because I was under 110,000 miles. You probably figured out by now
I have a 2013, 5.3 Silverado with a misfire on number four only at idle. I checked the compression and It is low on four. It was 127 dry and about fourty pounds higher wet. No ticking and all lifters are moving fine, I pulled the valve cover to confirm.
About a year ago I had an episode with the same cylinder misfiring with the valve noise. After running for a while with the Range disabler it stopped naking the lifter noise, so I had it tuned and all seemed fine until now. Have you seen this before??
Why is the engine light on in your test drive, sounds like a temp fix. Just replace the lifters and rods and be done with it.
Replacing lifters with stock AFM lifters is a temporary fix. The lifters don't fail on there own it's an underlying issue related to oil pressure. Pretty sure I did the engine light on purpose and explained why. You should pay attention. I explained a tune is needed to shut off the AFM.
I have a 2015 gmc 5.3. Bought truck as a project cuz it was diagnosed from previous owner from a couple mechanics shops as a stuck lifter. The truck has no engine code but there is a slight miss on cinder 7 noticed after looking at live data with .y friends scan tool.
It sounds almost like an exhaust leak or cylinder pressure being pushed out somewhere. My other friend was wondering if it could be pushing back out the intake because of a stuck lifter causi g that noise but there is no tick or clack or knock.
Can you have a stuck or collapsed or partially collapsed lifter with no knock or tick but just the air noise?
You might have a manifold leak and a lifter failure. Check to see all manifold bolts are in place. Then check compression. You could have a spun or stuck lifter but see my long video for diagnosis.
I've watched like 3 of your videos and I still dont understand how this is working... I need to see a cut away or a drawing or something to see what is going on here and how this in fixing the stuck lifter. I'd love to be able to do this for some people who don't have the funds to get lifter replaced.
Contact me on my website. But basically it works like when you have a bolt stuck in a socket. Set the socket on the concrete, wack the side of it with a hammer and the bolt is no longer stuck. I can get you a picture of a cutaway if you pm me at crazedperformancerepair.com
Ad blocker block is so stupid. Can't get rid of it.
My 2011 Silverado sounds exactly like this. Is it dangerous (damage to engine) to drive?
Yes it could be, all depends on what has failed and how.
It probably with get stuck again
I have a '15 silverado 5.3 . Shortly after Thanksgiving 2020 I blew a headgasket. While inside the motor figured I'd replace all the lifters as well. I've had the DOD turned off for almost the whole time I've had the truck, since 2018 with 27k on it and now she's almost at 100k. Two weeks ago I had a misfire in cylindar #6. Towed her home and started troubleshooting . Hoping it would be the coilpack because the packs were the only thing I didn't replace on the "headgasket rebuild "... It wasn't. Looks like a colapst brand new GM lifter ! The rocker doesn't move while engine is running and when it's off there's a ton of slop rocking back and forth on the rocker . Telling me it's a colapst lifter or a damaged cam. Oh and the rod looked fine as well . I guess my confusion comes from the fact that I don't have the DOD active . I went ahead and ordered your "premium tool kit " for the lifter. Havnt really decided if I want to use it or if it's even meant for a 2014-2018 GM gen 5 LT 5.3 engine. Im considering a complete delete, cam n all. Just not sure if I want to take that big of a project on right now. Any advice ?
Yo Brother I hope you have figured out out your issue!
@CrazedPerformanceRepair okay so figured out my exhaust valve isn't fully seating. No.compression. But when I back off the rocker arm bolt it seats fine with plenty compression. I even strarted the truck and it ran great. What should I do??
You prob have to pull the head. The valve might be sunk in the head or something. Check valve stem height and compare it to the others. If it's sitting higher then the rest it has sunken in or worn out.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair wasn't the valve. Took the head back off and replaced the other lifter in that cylinder and boom ran great. Idk what was going on because that lifter looked fine. The other one was visibly collapsed. But I guess both were bad.
@@TheTechGuider interesting, I've heard of only a couple do that. It happens but isn't very common.
Tryed the release trick. The lifer released. I reassembled the intake and drove it. It collapsed almost immediately. Waste of time
Did you neglect to do the VLOM mod and the tune? If not, did you check if the lifter was rotated from a bad plastic guide? You can message me on my website by the way. I always do my best to take care of my customers.
Lifter just started ticking about a week ago . No cel. Just a tick
I picked up an LS engine with that same problem ( tick but no collapsed lifter). The tick was from metal that wore away on the lifter roller and chewed up the cam lobe.
I have an 08 Tahoe that has #4 Intake lifter collapsing at start up causing a mis-fire. I have replaced all the DOD lifters on bank 2, # 3 Intake two times using OEM lifters same thing happens. Lasted about 300 miles. Any suggestions?
Number 4 Intake lifter not #3
That doesn't make since they don't collapse only at startup. You must have another issue? If it's a noise you hear at startup it could be exhaust manifold gasket. If it's actually misfiring there could be several things. Out of curiosity did the lifters have any damage to the rollers you pulled out? Might be best to message me this conversation on my website for a reply. I may miss your reply to this if it's on TH-cam. I don't always see the comments on TH-cam.
I have a bent pushrod in my 6.2L. 65k miles. would your process and tool work for me? I had to drive with the bent pushrod and tapping for about 200 miles.
If it's post 2014 I offer a replacement puchrod to solve that issue. You need to make make sure lifter is still in tact though. Message me at crazedperformancerepair.com for more details.
With a magnet, I was able to pull out the top half of the #7 intake DoD lifter (spring and cap cup). So it separated. Seems the bent pushrod beat up the lifter top I pulled the head and already have a new DOD lifter in there. No delete kit, just going to sell it.
I ordered your kit, but not going to need it now. Can I cancel and substitute a paypal gift? It was going to Madison, Alabama. Or, should I still shove that plug into the oil pressure screen area for added security?!
Did this particular vehicle tick all the time or just when it was cold ? I also have a po300 random misfire code but only have a lifter tick on a cold start and not all the time! Thank you for your videos on the 5.3.
You might want to see my leaking exhaust manifold video. This vehicle ticked all the time.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you for the reply. do you have a option where I could pay you to listen to a short video and get your logical opinion ?
Mine only throws p0300 but my scanner shows massive amounts of misfires on cyl #3 and occasional on #2, i find it odd that it only throws the random code. Hoping theres something in this video to get mine back going haha
what is that air tool you are using and where can i get it or will a regular air hammer work
It’s called a needle scaler ( with the scales off )
Don’t know if you’re still responding in 2023. But if you are, I discovered that I have a rocker arm that was not move AT ALL as all others were (with the truck running) unlike most I’ve ran across where you’re able to move rocker up and down by hand when lifter is faulty this one seems stuck in position. I unbolted the rocker .. let if run again with my finger on the pushrod and could feel it moving up and down so I don’t think cam is bad. I guess what I’m asking is have you ever ran across this , would your tool get this unstuck ..before I pull the head? Thanks in advance
Tool won't help.
Could be that your lifter has spun
The lifter could also be spun, using the starter relay with the key off, spin the engine over. Make sure not to jump the wrong terminals as it could damage the ECM. Vlom Must be on for this test. While it is spinning watch the suspected rocker move. Make sure that it rocks at least 6 to 7 times before you let up on the starter. If the rocker stops moving before then it is getting fed oil pressure and is likely spun. You can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair hmm…thanks for your response. That information definitely helps out big time ..I’m gonna take a look asap..
Side note…this is the second issue in a week I had with a collapsed lifter.. I replaced the first one which was in cylinder 4 . Changed head gaskets and all. After finishing it ran like a beast..felt a slight shudder every now and then …then just like that this issue is back…now cylinder 1.. but yea sounds like I could benefit from the delete AFM/DOD delete..although I would like to know what’s causing the computer to take out the lifter in the first place. Thanks I’ll try what you suggested.
Dear sir(s),
I purchased a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 engine and have been experiencing problems with oil consumption, reduced power, AFM valve/lifter sticking on cylinder #1. I believe I qualify for remedy under your Class Action. Bradley K. Zierke v. General Motors LLC, et al., Case No. 0:16-cv-04170, in the U.S. District Court for the District of Minnesota.
Can you assist me in obtaining any relief in this matter?
Ok but if it's collapsed.why not replace it
Because it will fail again unless the reason it failed is fixed. The only part that fails is on the AFM side of the lifter. It fails because of lack of oil pressure at the lifter to activate fast enough for the timing events. It's technically not even a collapsed lifter but that is the easiest way to explain it and how most people understand it.
Had some difficulty at first, asked Jesus for help and an idea popped into my head...add a few drops of "mouse milk" to each side...tapped it right out after adding the "annointing oil" of machines! 😅
Does it works with a hemi 5.7
Have an 09 gmc 5.3... starts up fine and smooth idles 35 psi oil pressure. Can drive it 30-40 miles and sounds like Mexican Roofers....No misfire....codes etc and oil pressure doesnt change!!!
Will that work on a 4.3 engine as well?? 2020 chevy express. I have like a valve noise around cyl 6 uppon acceleration and misfire that doesn't do the check light
If I gotta take it all apart anyways, I'm just gonna replace em all at one time and get another 300k before replacing again lol
But this is still a good way to do a quick fix if you're strapped for time or money
Have you heard of a P219A? Bank 1 driver side Air Fuel ratio Imbalance. No misfire or any DTC’s besides this one. Possibly 1 or 7
All you really have to do for a collapsed lifter spray some transmission fluid in the air intake or right down through the carburetor engine in it intake why the it should bring them right back up if they don't come right back up then you have to replace them all you messed them up real bad
If I freed up the lifter and just put everything back together how long would it run before it's lifted collapsing again if it would ever collapse again? if I was not to do no mods?
It will collapse the first time it activates.
Then how did it not collapse in this video when you drove it around the block?
12:19 does anyone know the video he’s talking about doesn’t pop up I’m oniphonev
You have to click the i/information button on the top right like I say in the video. When you do 3 videos show up. the first one th-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/w-d-xo.html is the full explanation.
My push rod popped out 3rd hit. Did the VLOM modification and putting back together. How long will it last?
I need help man, 07 suburban 5.3, misfire at idle only and no noise or ticking, checked with a scan tool and misfire counting on cylinder 2 and 5 I already changed plugs coil and wires still persisting.
Those aluminum 5.3 around the 2009 years have some serious piston slap noise on cold start up. Very embarrassing. I have two 09 Avalanches, the aluminum 5.3 sounds crazy on cold start up, just like your noise, the iron block has no noise. Once you warm up the engine, about 8 minutes of driving, noise gone. It causes no harm, just sounds stupid.
I have a 15 Silverado with the aluminum 5.3l and lifter #4 keeps sticking after being repaired 3 times. Anyone have any thoughts?
How come you didn't replace the lifter why did you put all your effort into trying to unlosing it
A Toyota can't hardly pull a small load bad gas mileage no pay load and no power and some times they break in half on the lift during oil change lol
Backyard shade tree half-assed trick, not a reliable repair. This problem will come back. Refrain from performing this backward gimmick. This isn't the fix an actual auto repair shop can perform with a warranty. Shame on you for suggesting such a thing, gives mechanics everywhere a bad name.
You clearly don't understand the system then. Let me guess, you think replacing the lifter would fix it?
I know that as a business owner and an ASE certified master I would never let you do that at my shop do it right do it once
Moreover engine flushes are dangerous. If one passage is blocked the others will soon follow. You also just sent all that dirt you punched through right into the lifter. Its an OK trick for your own car since it will likely cause problems down the road or manifest itself in toe other lifters but I wouldn't sell it to a customer the way you did in your video as you never described what you were really doing.
These were the original codes that it had b0710 bo267 b0561 u0140 p0300 p0521 p0573 p0307 I cleared them and rescanned then looked at live data it seemed odd that all fuel trims were staying at or very close to 0% even long term for some reason I couldn't find the misfire counter but check check engine light is on and I haven't driven it but once about a 1/2 mile it didn't flash when I drove it but showed no codes when I got back I will check the fuel pressure when I get ecm back in thanks again for the help
No shot the push rod flying across the shop got deformed.
Inspect it. Besides, replacing a $5 or less pushrod but knowing the lifter released is totally worth it if did get damaged. No other easy way to tell when the stuck lifter releases.
Hi, Have a question: after this procedure and once the lifter is realased, what are the chace that it stock again if I use one ODM AFM disabler ? Thanks a lot for what you do for the GM community
I would like to have the information for the tool to release my stuck lifter on my 2007 5.3 Tahoe.
I wish you would of shown how to actually position the tool down the hole. Which way should the angle face?! I appreciate the tips but man I’m scratching my head here and don’t want to go tapping anything without an answer to how to properly position this tool in my 06 envoy denalu
I used a pair of Lock, tight pliers and a torch, and it came right out
1 mechanic can fix what 10,000 engineers in the stupid idea departments at GM screwed up
When mine starts missing the service stabitrak and traction control off comes on... it doesn't sound bad as your vehicle
so if it is misfiring will this still work i think al dods have some degree of colapse because i can't tell any difference when removing coil plug
2011 tahoe here , and I only get knocking when doing 30-40 mph other than that no noise anyone have any idea on what it could be ?
What exactly are you doing
Lifter release trick.
Mine don't sound nothing like that lol mines quiet but giving me a p3400 and p0101
Will that work on a 2001 Silverado
no, it's pre afm
Mine is exactly like this only intermittent. It will come and go. Sea Foam an option?
Hey thinking of buying a 2010 z71 5.3 , in a few days has a ticking sound during start up but test drove fine and acceleration fine , really curious about problem and worried about oil problems to deal with , has 147k mikes .. should I buy ? Easy fix or no ? Move on ?
That's probably just a leaking exhaust manifold from a broken bolt. Not to big of deal if you have a welder and ability to weld. Just be sure to disable AFM in the tune if you buy it.
I never thought of this going through possible collapsed lifter now
Does this work with the V6 engines...?
Yes sort of, but it's not worth it. The 60° v6s that have AFM can I have the lifters replaced without pulling the head so it's not worth doing. Just replace the lifter and shut the system off or solve the wax oil pressure drain activation issue.
I just found that issue on my 15 silverado, what would happen if I just release the lifter? Do I have to plug that vlom? And or will the issue return if I dont? I have no engine knock, only small vibration , the check engine, and the stabilitrak light. I found the collapsed lifter on 7..my question remains...do I have to plug that VLOM oil thingie?? And if I don't will the issue reoccur??? Thank you for your great videos...excellent help my brutha
Do the VLOM mod and the PCM reprogram. Otherwise from what I've read, there is a high likelihood of reoccurrence.
I purchased that release tool, and it worked!! Thanks!
Hello there. I hava a Code P0302 on a 207 Tahoe (since is a piston that doesn´t have a AFM conected lifter) I wonder if I have to do this procedure? Thanks.
This procedure won't help on the non AFM cylinders. Check the basics first.
Fixed my tahoe using just the HP Tuner, no more lifter issues.
But everytime you drive you’re paying 50% more for fuel.
That doesn't even make sense...
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair darn rights it makes sense, I bet my 5.3 uses 50% less fuel than a dodge 5.7
Lifters colapsado? En mal estado? La solución fue limpiarlo o ponerlo nuevo?
Loose VLOM bolts allow oil pressure to escape leading to a mis-timed deactivation event, this causes the lifter to hammer against the lobe and eventually stick. If you ever open this motor up do yourself a favor and get rid of the DOD system.
Lack of oil pressure during activation is the reason they fail. That is one way they lack the pressure they need to operate fast enough for timing events.
thank you it worked again !!! two diffferent 6.2L engines both #4 cylinder
Who does the tune on thim
lt1swap.com
Why does GMC not do a recall if you have a problem l just bought a 2007 GMC Yukon SLT the sales manager told me the top end had been rebuilt runs great high mileage wish l new about the problems with these V8 engines l hate buying a vehicle have had it 3 months engine light came on 3 days ago hope l did not make a mistake buying the Yukon runs great so far no tick 😎 Doug
Because this issue doesn't effect safety but your wallet. They want what's in your wallet and can't have lawsuits.
I suggest Turn the system off with someone like LT1swap.com before it happens again. Once it happens it's only a matter of time before it happens again. Could be days or months. They fail from lack of 26psi or greater at AFM part of the lifter during activation though. So a loose/restricted VLOM or low oil pressure and it will happen again.
I'd also run rislone every oil change to help keep the engine clean