Transfer Mask for Laser Engraving | Laser Engraving Glass | Trotec
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ม.ค. 2017
- This week Mike will show you why it is extremely beneficial to use transfer mask when laser engraving a photograph on to glass. A transfer mask is easy to use and makes the engraving much clearer.
Want to buy the transfer mask? Click here:
www.engraving-supplies.ca/las...
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You can actually use everyday copy paper. Just put it in a milk bath and it will stick to the glass until you wash it off with water. We used this method with laser printers to create custom beer bottle labels.
Thanks for the amazing video! The masking is on the upside or downside? When engraving
Good work
I have recently been using a mask on glass too. Your mask/ non mask is not strictly a fair comparison if you have the same power setting on the non masked side as you have on the masked side. Typically you will need up to 25% more power to achieve the same density when you engrave a masked print compared to a non masked print. If you use the same power and speed setting for the non masked print, you will have a drastically overexposed result with extremely poor contrast, as you show in your mask/non comparison. A true test would be to setup a non-masked example from scratch, with the intention of getting the best non-mask result, then doing the same with the masked version, ie trying to get the best print using a mask. I fully agree that you will get better sharpness of lines and have a better contrast using a mask too but, it’s not as drastic a difference as you show on the Monroe picture. The other one gives a better comparison. The surface ablation is not as drastic with a mask and the end result is closer to a sand blasted result. The other advantage with a mask is that you don’t get the micro-shards of glass that form during laser ablation. I used to use a rolled up piece of printer paper (80g bond paper) to rub the coarse finish off before I used a mask to engrave glass. Nice video. Very useful info that will save a lot of time for those new to this.
The purpose of the video isn't to be honest. It's to sell a product.
What power laser did you use? What is the minimum power needed to rich glass?
do you remove the mask after the burn?
What is your opinion on laser etching on tempered glass? Like a car’s window
This works with a Diode Laser?
I have no yet run across a transfer paper that dissolves in water? Please let me know exactly what to order!
Is your machines available in india ?
Is the Mask on the top side or the under side?
Hi, if I send you a picture, can you process it and upload it to RDWorks8?
ho you peel it off?
what settings do u use on mask on.. and No. mask.... is. it same power and speed? or different when you put mask on
Depends on your contrast. But generally you will be using more in order for the beam to burn through the tape.
thanks
Np!
Will this work with the Ortus Laser Master 2? I'm thinking it's white so no....
no, diode laser will go straight through the glass. Diode lasers dont work on clear material.
Does it need to go on the top of the glass or underneath the glass?
On top. It will do nothing for it on the bottom, unless you're cutting acrylic-glass masking the back will keep residue marks that can occur from a dirty bed as the beam crosses the mesh. Moral of the story, keep a clean bed and mask everything from the top if needed. Air pressure is another thing you need to consider. Having anything more than 4psi is not needed for acrylic or glass and will only cause blast back of the vaporized materials or cause a fracturing effect from cooling to quickly.
Will this work for acrylic as well?
I would really want to know that as well
what's better to use - the white transfer tape you used or the green clear tape?
Hi Peter, we always use the white transfer tape that we sell in Canada. That generally works the best.
Never use the translucent stuff!!! Most of that transfer media contains or is made up of PVC, which is a big no-no for lasers and is also highly carcinogenic
@@Tuffenough4u Are you talking about the acrylic or the transfer tape because both of them are laser-safe and don't have any PVC in them.
@@TrotecLaserCanada No, I am responding to the guy that is asking if the translucent/clear transfer film is safe to use, which it's not with a laser cutter. The transfer tape you're using is just a low tack masking tape more or less, which is safe
Here is a link to show you what he is likely talking about.
www.uscutter.com/GreenStar-Clear-Transfer-Tape-Assorted-Widths-Sample-Rolls
what about thermal glass? its not easy to engrave. does this solve the problem!
Hi Tony, we're not sure, have not check it.
Hello,
So you do 100% power when doing glass with the masking tape?
Hi, it all depends on the type of wattage you have and the type of glass. We would recommend to test a small area first before doing the full engraving.
Thanks!
Is this transfer tape available in Australia
any joy finding this product? I'm also in Australia.
any sign supplies supplier has it.... try spandex
Can you tell me who you purchase your transfer tape from?
Hi Melik, thanks for your question and for watching.
I've included a link to our materials website where you can find all the different tapes and other products we have to offer.
www.engraving-supplies.ca/catalogsearch/result/?q=masking+tape
UScutter is a great source for transfer tape.
There's so many on us cutter could you name the exact brand and info to buy please?
Thanks
Amazon is your friend.
What about that for steel, for instance a yeti? We have been using a spray which allows it to burn on black. But could you use tape on the stainless steel?
Thanks
Hi, no for stainless steel you either need a Fiber laser (which we also sell) or the spray. Masking won't help for metals.
"the spray" is cermark and it comes in 3 colors but i only use black. I have a speedy CO2 50watt and burn Power 100 velocity 20 for big logos and velocity 30 or 40 for small logos
@@thaliashepherd3341 You're wasting money if you're only using black. Molly lube works just as well. Look in the comments> www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Lubricant-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B0013J62P4
Can i use this with a diode
no
Using some kind of mask or other method to help dissipate heat in the glass is always a good idea when trying to get good detail on glass when engraving, but this video is very misleading in that they never explain to you that you need completely different settings when engraving through a mask vs engraving directly onto glass because of the extra power it takes to engrave through the mask and to etch the glass under it vs simply etching the glass. Changing your mask and even the type of glass will effect the settings you need for best results. That is why when they engraved with and without mask at the same time, the unmasked results looked so bad. They were very over-powered and not the best settings for that particular scenario. Because of that, this video is terribly misleading and a poor resource for understanding how to get the best results when engraving glass.
I agree, many details not told what the science causes to get much finer details.
Is that their COm or Fiber laser?
Hi Rob, we're using our CO2
Would probably look really good if you hand painted the back of it with all the colors that just hate her eyes and skin tone.
what power and speed do you use
Hi Dermot, we've used 75 power, 100 speed on the Speedy 300 80w
@@TrotecLaserCanada What is 100 speed? Are you talking mm/s or is that just a Trotec thing? If so, what does 100 equate to in mm/s?
Which laser was used?
@@Tuffenough4u 100 speed means 100% of max speed, which is advertised as 3550mm/s (140in/sec) in a Speedy 300
@@Tuffenough4u yes, to answer your question, that IS a Trotec thing.
What if you used a black masking tape? I think the trick to this is using white masking tape, I think the black masking tape or paint which everyone uses absorbs too much heat from the laser.
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TU
get straight to the point and save the sermons for another day
Big fake