Engine Run Stand | Innovate Motorsports Air Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit Dual O2 Sensors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Installing an Innovate Motorsports air fuel ratio gauge kit on the DIY engine run stand. Enjoy
Things that might help with a project like this:
Innovate Motorsports Kit: amzn.to/3J6yhag
2 1/2" Flex Pipe: amzn.to/36QNb7G
Sensor Bung: amzn.to/3DC7t0E
VDO Gauge Mount: amzn.to/3K9243s
Dewalt Heat Gun: amzn.to/3NQtTji
Weatherproof Connectors: amzn.to/3NQtTji
Oil Pump Primer Tool: amzn.to/3qVjqJC
Edelbrock RPM Intake: amzn.to/3uvCEqv
Headman Headers: amzn.to/3N9o6oK
Weiand Water Pump: amzn.to/3CF8wMO
Fuel Pump Pushrod: amzn.to/3NfOu0l
Permatex RTV: amzn.to/3NgnXjC
March Serpentine Kit: amzn.to/3Ml2JQP
Edelbrock Fuel Pump: amzn.to/3pzgqSy
Plug Wire Separator: amzn.to/3vyHzZK
MSD Wire Pliers: amzn.to/3pAPORc
ProForm Starter: amzn.to/36YkXYo
M/T Valve Covers: amzn.to/33BwBqJ
ICT Engine Plate: amzn.to/3tRzjTy
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
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Things that might help with a project like this:
Innovate Motorsports Kit: amzn.to/3J6yhag
2 1/2" Flex Pipe: amzn.to/36QNb7G
Sensor Bung: amzn.to/3DC7t0E
VDO Gauge Mount: amzn.to/3K9243s
Dewalt Heat Gun: amzn.to/3NQtTji
Weatherproof Connectors: amzn.to/3NQtTji
Oil Pump Primer Tool: amzn.to/3qVjqJC
Edelbrock RPM Intake: amzn.to/3uvCEqv
Headman Headers: amzn.to/3N9o6oK
Weiand Water Pump: amzn.to/3CF8wMO
Fuel Pump Pushrod: amzn.to/3NfOu0l
Permatex RTV: amzn.to/3NgnXjC
March Serpentine Kit: amzn.to/3Ml2JQP
Edelbrock Fuel Pump: amzn.to/3pzgqSy
Plug Wire Separator: amzn.to/3vyHzZK
MSD Wire Pliers: amzn.to/3pAPORc
ProForm Starter: amzn.to/36YkXYo
M/T Valve Covers: amzn.to/33BwBqJ
ICT Engine Plate: amzn.to/3tRzjTy
This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Cool video. That run stand is definitely the bees knees. As always really enjoyed the video. Hope all is well.
Thanks 👍
The dual display units are nice for keeping track of both banks of the engine at once, which is more ideal IMO, most AFR quage kits are set up to use only one O2 sensor. From what i've seen, the typical user will put the sensor on the drivers side only, but you can still monitor the passenger side. Just weld in a bung on the opposite side and run the O2 sensor there, just be sure to plug up the drivers side bung first, its a good way to find out if you have to stagger the carburator jets to equalize both banks, on rare occassions, that needs to be done.
Incase anyone is questioning where to put the bungs. He says within 24 inches while the manual says at least 24 inches downstream. The manual is the correct one to go with because if your vehicle minorly shoots flames being 24 inches downstream of the collectors will prevent burning up the sensors too soon.
From what I understood they wanted them as close to the collector as possible. I have seen many collector kits with O2 bungs installed. I would have to get the manual out again and read it. Maybe even give them a call.
Just about all you guys need now is a full dyno setup. (maybe Santa can bring you one this year ;-) )
That would be awesome. I just don't get the views I need to get the funds for something like that.
G'day,
A great video. Very well explained.
I'm looking at buying one of these gauges for my 63 vw beetle. Now the engine being in the back I have a fair way to run the wiring harness.
Q. Given all the harness that comes with the kit over all how much wiring would each bank have. From the bung to the gauge.
✌️ Peace.
I haven't measured the cables. Right now they are in a box because I sold my run stand. If I get some time, I will measure them.
Awesome video
Thanks!
I really don't understand why you would want less than 14 air/fuel ratio when reving up, but I have heard this is optimal. Tuners always talk about "leaning out" the air/fuel at higher RPM, so I guess this is what they mean. Ether that....or I am missing something....
From what I understand 14.7 is the perfect burn. You want that when idling and cruising down the road at part throttle. 12 is what you want when you get aggressive with the throttle and that will give you the most HP. I have been playing with this and it seems like it's a little rich when I hit the throttle hard. I feel like this is probably better than being lean. A lean burn can hurt an engine. We aren't drag racing or anything like that, so we aren't trying to get every single HP out of the engine.
👍
What I'm wondering is... can you get your engine all tuned up on the engine stand, then is it good to go from there or should we have the sensors on the engine in the car/truck too? I'm assuming the tune is going to change with the weather, right? I'm coming at this from a drag race perspective, not a daily driver.
If I was racing I would put an O2 sensor kit in the car.
Have you had any problems with the gauge?
No but haven't really used it all that much. I think this setup is best used on a vehicle not a run stand.
Does the device need to be recalibrated if you unplug it from the battery for long period of time, like for a month?
I don't think so. Only if you get new sensors. You can recalibrate after the sensors are used a lot.
@@mossman381 thank you!
Do you think the A&F ratio would work with long long headers?
I would guess you will still need some more piping to get an accurate reading. From what I have seen with mine.
need more heat !
Your idle is too lean. 12 - 12.5 is the magic #
Put that poor motor in a car.