Very well done. I'm a mechanic and can say you covered this in laymen's terms that most can understand and use with basic mechanical skills. Great job!
Great videos my friend. An important point you should consider making here: It's obvious to some of us, but some people don't realize that if your refrigerant is low, you have a leak. And refrigerant is really nasty stuff to the atmosphere. Fixing the leak will not only keep you from having to repeat this procedure (saving money and effort), but even more importantly, it will protect the environment. Keep up the good work.
I'm not a youtube commenter (that's just asking for trouble), but I will absolutely make an exception for this video, which has absolutely saved my life. Thank you so much for this, Texas summer with no AC is practically hell and you have saved me from it!
Just recharged following this DIY, I also warmed some water and gently warmed my cans prior to and during the charging-I know this helped as the recharging earlier was going very slowly with 70 degree cans. Thank you for this thorough tutorial.
I have watched several videos on the topic of charging your cars AC, all but one wasn’t worth my time and the one barely made the cut. Then I happened to come across your video. I would like to say it was well done! You were very informative and professional in your presentation, anyone that watches it and follows your instructions, should be able to confidently complete a recharge! Thank for a great video, keep up the great work! Wish you were my Mechanic!
AC systems are really quite simple to work on when I was a young man I worked in probably 15 Body Shops over my lifetime and repaired many AC systems from cars that I had repaired after being in an accident.Recharging is ultra simple diagnosing is not hard either
You should update the video by showing the correct way to use a gauge set to add freon. Air MUST be bled out of the gauge set before it is connected to the system.
You never add refrigerant in liquid form. As in turning the can upside down. Add only as a vapor, can right side up. It' called slugging the compressor. You don't do it on home units especially. Just takes a minute or three longer, the CORRECT way, in vapor form.
Teflon tape is not needed on the can threads. The seal on that connection is not made at the threads. It is made at the end of the fittings from the can to the gauge......like a flared fitting.
ea333525 You're right. Teflon tape only works on pipe (tapered) threads. Straight threaded fittings have seal at an o-ring or flare inside the fitting, not at the threads.
You're awesome, thank you so much! Compressor clutch wasn't engaging and from what I read it could be the low pressure switch not allowing it to do so. Anyway, I threw a recharge can at it and it immediately kicked on. Unfortunately I found out that I have a leak in my coils, but at least it's not the compressor as the condenser replacement is much cheaper (found a new replacement for $60).
Coincidence I got the can with same gauge. Just my can was only 18oz total with additives, Interdynamics Glacier Ice, UPC 048168018291. Good point to wrap Teflon tape on threads on the can. Also you taught me not to turn R-134 can upside down. Glad I looked for your help again with my '02 Kia Spectra. I did my Kia's timing belt R&R with help from your video on that. Rock on man!
As a retired body man, I used to just energize the AC clutch by crossing a wire from the battery to the clutch. When the AC system was empty and the clutch would not engage that was the easiest way I knew to get the job done
Wow you are so detailed and awesome. I have zero knowledge of cars and this was so easy to follow. This was a huge help while we're having 100+ temperatures right now. Thank you so much!
You can also remove connector to pressure switch and jump it out on the vehicle plug side with a jumper wire. It'll keep compressor running at all time your refilling. Cut your refill time in half. Also, let run awhile before charging system, aloows system to balance out. 10+ minutes. Stick a meat thermometer in air duct inside car to track progress. Bad time to refill is when sweltering hot weather but hey, everyone's doing it
Willi Wonka I always keep try to keep in mind most people watching a how video don't know how to do a certain repair.. hahha glad you like the video's. thanks for your comment.
Thanks for covering even the small stuff, which is important to a total newbie. Here's a small stuff question: Do I leave the car running while hooking up the second can?
Whenever you are adding refrigerant the car has to be running with the a/c on full blast, that is so the refrigerant can cycle and wont cause any pressure buildups
duly noted, but what about when I'm unscrewing the first can and screwing in the second ... do I keep the car running while doing that? Won't the refrigerator squirt out of the intake valve?
Probably what I would do is purge the air out of the line while connecting the connector. Also to avoid over charging keep the RPMs above 1000. 1500 rpms is good.
THANX R&W...I'm a pretty good wrench myself...however I needed a good lesson in DIY AC. You did the trick! Great videos and explanations! I need to replace my orifice tube and vac out some of my 134a (overcharged). I have a lot of tools but no vac or manifold set. Will see if I can get the loaner from auto zone or Advanced. A person cannot know everything alone..... but finding someone who knows what you don't know, is the key! Today you have unlocked the door!!!!! Many thanx again my friend
Don't forget a couple simple things for best a.c. cooling performance; blow out condenser (in front of radiator) with high pressure air or use a condensor solvent solution. Remember, blow towards front of car from engine side(under hood) the reverse of natural air flow. Do your radiator too!. Good to check evap coil too if accessible. Sometimes kleenex or napkins get sucked in from glove box and block fan or evaporator.
I enjoy your videos very much! I'm going to purge my system and replace the refrigerant. Is it necessary to add oil to a purged system or is there enough oil left in the compressor? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the info about the a/c. I had my car serviced. Cost me $94,00and it wasn't working like it should be,they said he gave me 2lbs of it wasn't enough wasn't cold enough, bought that bottle and checked it it was very low compressor wasnt working good, I put about 1\4OF the a/c pro and it working now no leaks, nice and cold only paid $32,99at wall Mart for it. I spent $94,00for it I good kick my self. ! Thanks for the video.
You probably had a small leak, the problem is some shops will never tell you that. I would bet most people would like to take their chances and try to live with adding refrigerant maybe every 6 months to 2+ years instead of spending a grand fixing their a/c.
Cale Caki yes. You have to purge at the hose connection. Purging means once you start to open the blue knob, open the connection a little at the gauge for one second till you hear hissing like air is coming out and close tight right away to continue to add refrigerant. You only do it once so you know you let any air out.
Ok...my Mackey moose mechanic put 4 cans in my system blowing the popoff valve...system left open for a week and a half...but my A/C WAS NOT ON...I LIVE IN CA MYSELF...SO...I figured out why my A/C wasn't working in the 1st place...so I fixed the broken wire...also installed a rebuilt clutch...GOOD...In the meantime he had another Popoff valve installed and 1 can r134a I have cycled it several times and very little cool came out...short cycles...test to see if clutch stayed engaged...yup...ok...now I will try a can of same or another brand & run it when inserting more r134a freon...HOPEING...try to get back to let you know...
Do you need to purge the air from the filler hose? Especially that long hose on the real gauge set. I don't know how much air in the system is too much, but I'm sure that less is better. Thanks.
great video. I tried adding refrigerant to my vehicle and the gauge read that it was full, but the compressor was not engaging with my ac turned on. should I ignore the gauge reading since you did say that the gauge reading doesn't mean anything if the compressor is not engaged. Should I just keep adding refrigerant and see if the clutch engages?
I have had this problem many times in many body shops if the ac clutch won't engage while I am recharging I take a piece of wire and connect one end to the positive terminal on the battery the other end should be peeled back a half-inch or so then use that wire to energize the clutch and you are ready to add freon now.
I see some cans have have stop leak. So if you have a leak should you use that can first? All the videos I see they have not used the stop leak can yet?
How do you know how much to put in using the manifold so you don't overfill or waste r134a ? I saw some videos that said to have high side at 200-250 psi then stop refilling.
This is by far the best explanation between the past video and this one. I personally have both I was wondering could you just refill with the simple low pressure side and not have to use the gauge assembly. Thank you so much for making this video
9:00 whats the difference between the ends of the lines with the elbow side and straight side?there is an visible difference between the ends?. didnt mention anything about purging the vacuum line before opening lines
The problem with those blends is that it's not 100% R-134. That 22 oz can is probably 18oz of refrigerant and 4oz of additives. The label on that back specifies exactly of the contents are refrigerant by weight. The spec for that car assume you're adding virgin R-134.
The 3 valve manifold has a schrader valve. When you add refrig do you vacuum the air out of the line? If you hook the vacuum to the schrader, should you connect the can and Line and vacuum the line, remove the vacuum to close the schrader, and then add the refrigerant? Thanks Great video.
Love what you do. Great videos. Have consumed 4 thus far. Sadly no idea what's wrong. Clutch engaging. Blower Blowing. Coolant level seems great...actually way high (on the low side) but I have no cold air.......:( (2009 Audi A4 Quattro)
hey man did you make a video on how to check if there is a leak and how to repair it...about 3 months ago i had Freon put in by a mechanic he said it was no guarantee that it would last if there is a leak that the Freon might leak out in about 3 to 6 months which it did in like 3 months so i need help on how to find and repair a leak i have a 1999 mercury cougar any help id appreciate it just subbed cuz i like how you explain and go into detail on your vids thanks man!
Hi guy, thanks for the video. However, there are some clutches that keep rotation whether the compressor is engaged or not. For instance, I have Toyota Camry 2017 and Toyota Corolla 2016 and they both work the same way. However, I need to know if the Camry is working well. Can you explain if you have any idea about such compressor? I will greatly appreciate.
frankly the most helpful video. thanks. one question please, how to know what constitutes the normal low pressure range for 04 mazda 3 A/C system. as far as i know the pressure is related to the weather temp and the the engine rpm. please cover this point if you know. thanks again.. or simply without vacuuming, how to know the right psi for your AC?
Curious, if you use the method with pressure hoses, isn't there a lot of air from the yellow hose to the low side hose that goes into the AC system before any fluid even comes out? Shouldn't you have to prime the low side line by filling it up with AC refrigerant? That's about 6' of empty lines before the first drop of refrigerant even goes into the system. I don't know. I'm not an AC guy, but two hoses seems like a lot of air for such a small system. So can you explain why I am wrong? I know I have to be, I just can't figure out how air is not allowed in the system, but hooking up and turning on empty lines is okay. Does that make sense? I hope so.
Nice summary. Here in Canada all freon based refrigerants (including 134a) require the mechanic to have an A/C certification license before he can buy them. As a less damaging work-around, some retail stores sell propane-based refrigerants in the same kind of containers. If you don't read the labels you would never know. Of course those systems end up with a mix of propane and 134a, which may be a problem at the time of recovery. Although 134a may cause less harm to the ozone layer I don't think the harm is zero, so it becomes an ethical dilemma. As you say, the confusing point is the fact that the compressor may not turn on if the system is low on refrigerant. I would tend to go to the gauge set, but if the compressor doesn't turn on you won't learn anything about dynamic pressures. I think a pro shop would reclaim freon, test for leaks, replace seals and receiver dryer, draw the system down with vacuum and retest, and then recharge. That's effectively what you did when you replaced the compressor here. It's more expensive but in the long run if there's a leak most cars will end up there anyway.
I just wanted to add a comment but first I have to say it was a thorough video but there was no mention of how you bleed the refrigerant lines on the ac manifold. You do not want any air to enter your ac system. Bleeding the line on a fill-up kit is difficult and many times impossible but an ac gauge set should allow you to bleed the air before adding refrigerant. There is air in the lines before connecting.
This video was by far the best one on youtube and helped me out a lot. It seems to also be the only video on here that helps people know where the ac pressure switch is at on the ac line. I had a hard time finding the pressure switch on my Mom's 2003 Buick Century 3.1 V-6 but thanks to your video at 5:06 timeframe it helped. Thank You very much. I have a question about the pressure switch if you could answer it. Will I lose all of the cars R134a freon by taking the pressure switch off and replacing it? My Mom's Buick Century is always blowing the 10 amp ac clutch red mini fuse every time we turn the air on and we were told to try replacing the pressure switch. When the air works until the fuse blows it works great. If you can think of anything causing the 10 amp mini fuse to keep blowing like that let me know? The ac clutch relay is ok and the diode >| both inside the under hood fuse box are ok. And no leaks in the system but I need to get the ac to quit blowing fuses and afraid about replacing the pressure switch until I know whether or not I might lose all of her R134a. Thanks for your help and any future help you might offer. RatchetsAnd Wrenches you have been such a help, you're awesome!!!
Hi @RatchetsAnd Wrenches .my car still blows hot air. My compressor is working and they checked it out and it has NO leaks. all O-Rings were also replaced. we changed the expansion valve and it worked only for 2 days. altought throughout all these steps , we never vacum the system. is this the cause of the hot air blowing? please let me know ASAP
Awesome video man! I was wondering where can I find the sticker that says how much refrigerant I should put. I got a 2009 Civic and my pressure is close to zero. AC clutch isn't engaging.
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
Very well done. I'm a mechanic and can say you covered this in laymen's terms that most can understand and use with basic mechanical skills. Great job!
agree... you are PRECISE
Great videos my friend. An important point you should consider making here: It's obvious to some of us, but some people don't realize that if your refrigerant is low, you have a leak. And refrigerant is really nasty stuff to the atmosphere.
Fixing the leak will not only keep you from having to repeat this procedure (saving money and effort), but even more importantly, it will protect the environment.
Keep up the good work.
Brilliant observation!
I thought it was normal to lose some refrigerant over a timeframe of years.
THANK YOU so much! I was completely clueless about how to get my air cold again & with your help I did it in less than 15 minutes! You're a God-sent!
man you explain it step-by-step you're awesome
Lll
I'm not a youtube commenter (that's just asking for trouble), but I will absolutely make an exception for this video, which has absolutely saved my life. Thank you so much for this, Texas summer with no AC is practically hell and you have saved me from it!
I was suffering without AC for waaay too long. Thank you!
Just recharged following this DIY, I also warmed some water and gently warmed my cans prior to and during the charging-I know this helped as the recharging earlier was going very slowly with 70 degree cans. Thank you for this thorough tutorial.
stick the refill ref can in a coffee can of warm water to get it flowing.Safer than flipping the can & giving it a slug of liquid ref.
I have watched several videos on the topic of charging your cars AC, all but one wasn’t worth my time and the one barely made the cut. Then I happened to come across your video. I would like to say it was well done! You were very informative and professional in your presentation, anyone that watches it and follows your instructions, should be able to confidently complete a recharge!
Thank for a great video, keep up the great work!
Wish you were my Mechanic!
AC systems are really quite simple to work on when I was a young man I worked in probably 15 Body Shops over my lifetime and repaired many AC systems from cars that I had repaired after being in an accident.Recharging is ultra simple diagnosing is not hard either
@@ericjkent if my a/c is cold on the passenger side and warm on the driver side do you think its low on refrigerant?
You should update the video by showing the correct way to use a gauge set to add freon. Air MUST be bled out of the gauge set before it is connected to the system.
Thx for your videos explaining things so well. Single woman here with limited mechanic ability but I understood everything!
You never add refrigerant in liquid form. As in turning the can upside down. Add only as a vapor, can right side up. It' called slugging the compressor. You don't do it on home units especially. Just takes a minute or three longer, the CORRECT way, in vapor form.
Teflon tape is not needed on the can threads. The seal on that connection is not made at the threads. It is made at the end of the fittings from the can to the gauge......like a flared fitting.
ea333525
You're right. Teflon tape only works on pipe (tapered) threads. Straight threaded fittings have seal at an o-ring or flare inside the fitting, not at the threads.
You're awesome, thank you so much! Compressor clutch wasn't engaging and from what I read it could be the low pressure switch not allowing it to do so. Anyway, I threw a recharge can at it and it immediately kicked on. Unfortunately I found out that I have a leak in my coils, but at least it's not the compressor as the condenser replacement is much cheaper (found a new replacement for $60).
Saw this "how-to" and resurrected a dormant A/C system to good function. Needed here in AZ. Thanks for the info.
Great videos you are posting. Learning more about aircon in 20 minutes than I have done browsing Google the last 6 months. Again great job
execexec Nice, glad to hear. Thanks for commenting. cheers
Coincidence I got the can with same gauge. Just my can was only 18oz total with additives, Interdynamics Glacier Ice, UPC 048168018291. Good point to wrap Teflon tape on threads on the can. Also you taught me not to turn R-134 can upside down. Glad I looked for your help again with my '02 Kia Spectra. I did my Kia's timing belt R&R with help from your video on that. Rock on man!
As a retired body man, I used to just energize the AC clutch by crossing a wire from the battery to the clutch. When the AC system was empty and the clutch would not engage that was the easiest way I knew to get the job done
helped a lot for first time. pressure changed a lot once clutch kicked in. giving it that little sniff of freon helped engage the clutch
Awesome video!! To the point no mumbo jumbo talk.
My AC just died. It's 2017. This was a great video to watch & I'll use it as a starting point. Thanks much!
Wow you are so detailed and awesome. I have zero knowledge of cars and this was so easy to follow. This was a huge help while we're having 100+ temperatures right now. Thank you so much!
This video helps alot. Thank you for showing each part you were talking about.
Best attention to detail video I have seen yet!!! Very thorough instruction. Thank You, RnW's
You can also remove connector to pressure switch and jump it out on the vehicle plug side with a jumper wire. It'll keep compressor running at all time your refilling. Cut your refill time in half. Also, let run awhile before charging system, aloows system to balance out. 10+ minutes. Stick a meat thermometer in air duct inside car to track progress. Bad time to refill is when sweltering hot weather but hey, everyone's doing it
You did such an amazing job to not leave anything out. I am so appreciative of your step by step process. Keep up the good work! Thank you.
Don't you have to add an special oil with your refrigerant? Or is it already mixed in the can? Thanks for your useful videos!
I like your method of simplicity. You have a gift for what most people who are not experts will need to know.
Willi Wonka I always keep try to keep in mind most people watching a how video don't know how to do a certain repair.. hahha glad you like the video's. thanks for your comment.
Thanks for covering even the small stuff, which is important to a total newbie. Here's a small stuff question: Do I leave the car running while hooking up the second can?
Whenever you are adding refrigerant the car has to be running with the a/c on full blast, that is so the refrigerant can cycle and wont cause any pressure buildups
duly noted, but what about when I'm unscrewing the first can and screwing in the second ... do I keep the car running while doing that? Won't the refrigerator squirt out of the intake valve?
no they are one way valves
Thanks for the video. Was nice and short and told what does not say on the can plus extras too.
Probably what I would do is purge the air out of the line while connecting the connector. Also to avoid over charging keep the RPMs above 1000. 1500 rpms is good.
Great explanation with only one suggestion, try to make the audio easier to understand throughout the video. Thanks!!!
Well Spoken, well explained, time well spent.
THANX R&W...I'm a pretty good wrench myself...however I needed a good lesson in DIY AC. You did the trick! Great videos and explanations! I need to replace my orifice tube and vac out some of my 134a (overcharged). I have a lot of tools but no vac or manifold set. Will see if I can get the loaner from auto zone or Advanced. A person cannot know everything alone..... but finding someone who knows what you don't know, is the key! Today you have unlocked the door!!!!! Many thanx again my friend
Don't forget a couple simple things for best a.c. cooling performance; blow out condenser (in front of radiator) with high pressure air or use a condensor solvent solution. Remember, blow towards front of car from engine side(under hood) the reverse of natural air flow. Do your radiator too!. Good to check evap coil too if accessible. Sometimes kleenex or napkins get sucked in from glove box and block fan or evaporator.
Superb explanation! Thank you.
Jhan Jar np, glad you liked it. cheers
Jhan Jar v
I enjoy your videos very much!
I'm going to purge my system and replace the refrigerant. Is it necessary to add oil to a purged system or is there enough oil left in the compressor?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the info about the a/c.
I had my car serviced. Cost me $94,00and it wasn't working like it should be,they said he gave me 2lbs of it wasn't enough wasn't cold enough, bought that bottle and checked it it was very low compressor wasnt working good, I put about 1\4OF the a/c pro and it working now no leaks, nice and cold only paid $32,99at wall Mart for it. I spent $94,00for it I good kick my self.
! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the great how to video. Gauge say its between low and filled, added a bit and back to cold air.. 😁😁😁
You saved me a bundle. 92 degrees heat outside
Very nice explanations (without useless chatter). Thx so much. I’ll work on my car tomorrow!
You get a sub because that was perfectly explained easy to follow informative and clear nicely done brother.
I used that refrigerant 2 years ago, on a system that I was told needed $1200 worth of work. Great stuff. Good stuff
You probably had a small leak, the problem is some shops will never tell you that. I would bet most people would like to take their chances and try to live with adding refrigerant maybe every 6 months to 2+ years instead of spending a grand fixing their a/c.
RatchetsAnd Wrenches
Exactly....That's me
, since R134a isn't bad for the ozone like R12
Thanks for all the info. Dont forget to tell people how to bleed hoses of air so all the air in the yellow and blue hose does not go into system.
yes, how to do it? And at 7:00, the blue pipe is full of air. how to remove the air before starting adding refrigerant ?
Cale Caki yes. You have to purge at the hose connection. Purging means once you start to open the blue knob, open the connection a little at the gauge for one second till you hear hissing like air is coming out and close tight right away to continue to add refrigerant. You only do it once so you know you let any air out.
Skip to 6:44 once you've screwed it on
your videos keep getting better and better, thanks for this
Cool "Sorry" I have never done this but you showed me how easy it was to do it and boy it so easy if I can do it any can do.
Great explanation of how to do it yourself on the refill/recharge of your cars A/C system.
I am probably going to save a lot of money by doing this myself. Thank you for making this video!
Ok...my Mackey moose mechanic put 4 cans in my system blowing the popoff valve...system left open for a week and a half...but my A/C WAS NOT ON...I LIVE IN CA MYSELF...SO...I figured out why my A/C wasn't working in the 1st place...so I fixed the broken wire...also installed a rebuilt clutch...GOOD...In the meantime he had another Popoff valve installed and 1 can r134a I have cycled it several times and very little cool came out...short cycles...test to see if clutch stayed engaged...yup...ok...now I will try a can of same or another brand & run it when inserting more r134a freon...HOPEING...try to get back to let you know...
Easy to follow steps. Just in time for summer
Do you need to purge the air from the filler hose? Especially that long hose on the real gauge set. I don't know how much air in the system is too much, but I'm sure that less is better. Thanks.
You gotta be from Quebec. Nice video.
Awesome ! We changed the refrigerant in our sons 96 Toyota Camry !! Worked perfect ;)
Very clear explaining how to add refrigerant to the ac system. Excellent!!!!
Note: R12 (pre-1982)is refilled on the high-gas side (large cap), whereas R134a is recharged on low (liquid side:small cap)
great video. basically just gave me all the info i need to go attempt to refill the freon on my 07 eclipse.
great video. I tried adding refrigerant to my vehicle and the gauge read that it was full, but the compressor was not engaging with my ac turned on. should I ignore the gauge reading since you did say that the gauge reading doesn't mean anything if the compressor is not engaged. Should I just keep adding refrigerant and see if the clutch engages?
Jose Andrade That's what I would do since in the video his clutch wasn't engaging but after he added some freon it engaged.
I have had this problem many times in many body shops if the ac clutch won't engage while I am recharging I take a piece of wire and connect one end to the positive terminal on the battery the other end should be peeled back a half-inch or so then use that wire to energize the clutch and you are ready to add freon now.
I see some cans have have stop leak. So if you have a leak should you use that can first? All the videos I see they have not used the stop leak can yet?
Gloves! Eye protection! And if you use a manifold guage set you should purge the air in the line before adding to the system.
There’s always the public service announcement guy
How do you know how much to put in using the manifold so you don't overfill or waste r134a ?
I saw some videos that said to have high side at 200-250 psi then stop refilling.
Bleed air (and moisture) from the hoses before tightening on the low pressure connector....
This is by far the best explanation between the past video and this one. I personally have both I was wondering could you just refill with the simple low pressure side and not have to use the gauge assembly. Thank you so much for making this video
9:00 whats the difference between the ends of the lines with the elbow side and straight side?there is an visible difference between the ends?. didnt mention anything about purging the vacuum line before opening lines
The problem with those blends is that it's not 100% R-134. That 22 oz can is probably 18oz of refrigerant and 4oz of additives. The label on that back specifies exactly of the contents are refrigerant by weight. The spec for that car assume you're adding virgin R-134.
Being pure refrigerants, R134a, R12 and R22 can be charged either way gas or liquid.
The 3 valve manifold has a schrader valve.
When you add refrig do you vacuum the air out of the line?
If you hook the vacuum to the schrader, should you connect the can and Line and vacuum the line, remove the vacuum to close the schrader, and then add the refrigerant?
Thanks Great video.
The first can shows 'advanced leak sealer'. Are you recommending using this as well?
Question, when is the gauge accurate when the clutch engages or no? Because it seems that one the clutch engages the needle shoot up.
I would have liked to see that gauge setting one more time after you added 2 more ounces !
Your videos help me a lot, thank you so much and God bless you.
Very good and complete video, Thank You very much.
great great explanation. I was able to do this myself and save some money and time from going to the dealership. this worked!!
When would you add from the high pressure side?
Love what you do. Great videos. Have consumed 4 thus far. Sadly no idea what's wrong. Clutch engaging. Blower Blowing. Coolant level seems great...actually way high (on the low side) but I have no cold air.......:( (2009 Audi A4 Quattro)
hey man did you make a video on how to check if there is a leak and how to repair it...about 3 months ago i had Freon put in by a mechanic he said it was no guarantee that it would last if there is a leak that the Freon might leak out in about 3 to 6 months which it did in like 3 months so i need help on how to find and repair a leak i have a 1999 mercury cougar any help id appreciate it just subbed cuz i like how you explain and go into detail on your vids thanks man!
Dave David Yes, link in the description of this video. cheers
Hi guy, thanks for the video. However, there are some clutches that keep rotation whether the compressor is engaged or not. For instance, I have Toyota Camry 2017 and Toyota Corolla 2016 and they both work the same way. However, I need to know if the Camry is working well. Can you explain if you have any idea about such compressor? I will greatly appreciate.
Vidio and explanations first class , Thank you
frankly the most helpful video. thanks. one question please, how to know what constitutes the normal low pressure range for 04 mazda 3 A/C system. as far as i know the pressure is related to the weather temp and the the engine rpm. please cover this point if you know. thanks again.. or simply without vacuuming, how to know the right psi for your AC?
Curious, if you use the method with pressure hoses, isn't there a lot of air from the yellow hose to the low side hose that goes into the AC system before any fluid even comes out? Shouldn't you have to prime the low side line by filling it up with AC refrigerant? That's about 6' of empty lines before the first drop of refrigerant even goes into the system. I don't know. I'm not an AC guy, but two hoses seems like a lot of air for such a small system. So can you explain why I am wrong? I know I have to be, I just can't figure out how air is not allowed in the system, but hooking up and turning on empty lines is okay. Does that make sense? I hope so.
Suggest anyone doing this 1) Wears gloves & 2) Wears googles. Safety first...
Vincent de Guard f dat
Top 5 anyways
SAFETY FIRST!
I know is late, but you forgot to reminder that wear a mask is important for leaking.
I got sickness because of this problem
Only if you’re a Puss
Nice summary.
Here in Canada all freon based refrigerants (including 134a) require the mechanic to have an A/C certification license before he can buy them. As a less damaging work-around, some retail stores sell propane-based refrigerants in the same kind of containers. If you don't read the labels you would never know. Of course those systems end up with a mix of propane and 134a, which may be a problem at the time of recovery.
Although 134a may cause less harm to the ozone layer I don't think the harm is zero, so it becomes an ethical dilemma. As you say, the confusing point is the fact that the compressor may not turn on if the system is low on refrigerant. I would tend to go to the gauge set, but if the compressor doesn't turn on you won't learn anything about dynamic pressures. I think a pro shop would reclaim freon, test for leaks, replace seals and receiver dryer, draw the system down with vacuum and retest, and then recharge. That's effectively what you did when you replaced the compressor here. It's more expensive but in the long run if there's a leak most cars will end up there anyway.
Soppose you put in too much of the free on what will happen
Best video that I've seen on this subject. Thanks
I just wanted to add a comment but first I have to say it was a thorough video but there was no mention of how you bleed the refrigerant lines on the ac manifold. You do not want any air to enter your ac system. Bleeding the line on a fill-up kit is difficult and many times impossible but an ac gauge set should allow you to bleed the air before adding refrigerant. There is air in the lines before connecting.
Thank you for easy to follow instructions.
Tuning up my AC now. Thanks man!
Should you add the uv dye and sealer first? before adding more refrigerant?
Surprisingly informative
Well done! Thank you for the great information!
Thank you ! very helpful - saved me money !
This video was by far the best one on youtube and helped me out a lot. It seems to also be the only video on here that helps people know where the ac pressure switch is at on the ac line. I had a hard time finding the pressure switch on my Mom's 2003 Buick Century 3.1 V-6 but thanks to your video at 5:06 timeframe it helped. Thank You very much. I have a question about the pressure switch if you could answer it. Will I lose all of the cars R134a freon by taking the pressure switch off and replacing it? My Mom's Buick Century is always blowing the 10 amp ac clutch red mini fuse every time we turn the air on and we were told to try replacing the pressure switch. When the air works until the fuse blows it works great. If you can think of anything causing the 10 amp mini fuse to keep blowing like that let me know? The ac clutch relay is ok and the diode >| both inside the under hood fuse box are ok. And no leaks in the system but I need to get the ac to quit blowing fuses and afraid about replacing the pressure switch until I know whether or not I might lose all of her R134a. Thanks for your help and any future help you might offer. RatchetsAnd Wrenches you have been such a help, you're awesome!!!
I must have missed it but did you talk about whether or not you evacuated the system before adding refrigerant?
Great job!
Thank you
Hi @RatchetsAnd Wrenches .my car still blows hot air.
My compressor is working and they checked it out and it has NO leaks. all O-Rings were also replaced.
we changed the expansion valve and it worked only for 2 days.
altought throughout all these steps , we never vacum the system.
is this the cause of the hot air blowing?
please let me know ASAP
did you also change the dryer?
first vaccum all air inside the pipes and condencer unit using an additional compressor
Great video, Thanks
Excellent explanation
What about if you add refrigerant when vacuum pressure still present? Will that work or vacuum need to be release?
I like artic freeze.it really works the best..
Awesome video man! I was wondering where can I find the sticker that says how much refrigerant I should put. I got a 2009 Civic and my pressure is close to zero. AC clutch isn't engaging.
I'm feeling pretty confident, gonna try my refill tmw I'll let you know how it goes
R.I.P.
Hi bro. I have a question.What about the air in blue pipe? Will air not come in the system ?