I have been to air conditioning/refrigeration school and I've worked in this field as a professional. I have to say this guy explains things very well!
A very comprehensive exposition of a given subject on a vehicle’s A/C delivered for the purpose of instruction for us common masses. Thank goodness for your channel 🙏🏽
My car was having an a/c issue last year. I checked everything on the mechanical side of the system and the pressures as well, everything was normal so I deemed it to be an electrical issue. After a few days worth of tracing, I discovered that the ambient air temperature sensor behind the grille was broken. I replaced it and the a/c was working like normal again. I’ve never serviced a/c systems before and I’m not HVAC certified but I gained some experience through building larger industrial sized air conditioners for Lennox Industries years ago. I never knew that experience would benefit me years down the road, but it did.
I replaced a compressor clutch on a vw 1.8T. You reminded me of the trouble replacing that snap ring using a mirror because even trying to angle the compressor towards you, you still are inserting it blindly onto the shaft. It's probably my most frustrating repair ever but well worth it as it's worked well ever since (+6y).
I love your AC videos!! They are my favorite! I’ve learned so much from you on this subject. Btw, I replaced just the coil on my 2007 Infiniti M45 and the compressor lasted two more years.
Tried this UV in a can, but the hose leaked from where it was connected with the can. Got a cheap gauge set ($40) from Amazon and it worked surprisingly well. The thing is that it is very hard to find a product that has UV but does not have sealer.
I love your videos. You are very thorough and explicit. Keep up the great work 👍 👏. I got one question though, I have 2 dodge rams (99 and 01 ram 1500) and both have the "no sense bus". I did my best to check the obvious and did find some broken or leaking sensors. Have u ever done any video on this particular problem?
Hello R&W, Thanks for all you do. Great vlogs, videos and tutorials. Greatly appreciated. I have a situation. My Honda mini-van AC is not blowing cold nor hot. Not sure if they are related. My compressor clutch does not engage. Based on your tutorial, it may be due to low Freon. Will this prevent Freon from going into the system? If so, found using a paper clip will engage the clutch after removing the compressor relay. Please confirm that I need to use the paper clip to engage clutch when recharging system with Freon. But, on the question of not blowing hot, does it have anything to do with the AC side of things?
Common problems from not so common to common. 10- bad relay or fuses 9- bad pressure switch 8- clogged cabin filter 7- bad clutch 6- bad ac compressor 5- bad cooling fans relay/fuse 4- bad blower fan or resistor 3- frozen evaporator 2- bad orifice tube/valve 1- ac leak
thanks for your video. very helpful. not sure why many videos like this doesn't mention that some AC have a clutchless compressor, Variable displacement compressor. in this case it looks like the compressor is always moving. It took me a while to figure out why my compressor was moving all the time. so, how to know if compressor is engaged with a VDC compressor ? I also did a scan and came up with AC not equipped, and Fault communicating with Vehicle ECU. trying to figure out if AC was supposed to show up in this scan or if in fact is a communication problem. electrical or mechanical ? lol. going insane trying to figure this one out. Low pressure 70, high pressure 140 psi.
Very good video brother, like the others, thanks for the time and patience, my cuestion is after you find a big leak and fix the leak, 'hose leak in my case' the system needs pag oil also? Hope you can awnser my cuestion and thanks again
First of all thank you for this info, very helpful. Now for my issue. 2012 VW Golf 2.5. 150k miles. Theres cold air (but not as cold a good AC syatem), only when the engine has some load (freeway speeds but even sometimes it stops) Any ideas about this issue. Thx in advance.
I have that harbor freight manifold gauge. When you finish working on the car, do you zero out your gauge? This will release the refrigerant in the lines, so it's probably not best practice to do that every time?
Hi nice to meet you. Very nice channel👍🏿. Pherhaps you know this. My Suzuki Swift 2008, keeps losing power during driving or at a red light. It started after the transmission got revised and sparkplugs changed. In 6 years before these repairs, the problem never occurred . The codereader at the mechanic found out that ‘oxygen sensor 2’ was high during the live scan. We decided to change the Cathelac converter, because it could send wrong data to the oxygen sensor. The car drove much smoother, but after 4 days the problem popped up again. So what do you think the problem is?
Hello, thanks for the great video. I have a good one here. I have a 2003 Infiniti fx35, I replaced an ac aluminum line and the condenser and replaced the o-rings as well. I still have the original compressor which engages every time I turn on the AC but I have to wait and drive or idle for a while until it finally cools down. Sometimes I have to turn it on and off a few times while idling or driving for it to finally cool down. Should I replace the compressor anyways even tho it always engages without problems? Thanks for the video.
I watched alot of ac system videos of yours, i have a question, how long does it take for a frozen (overcharged, a hasty charged) evaporator to thaw out in 105 degree weather before trying again to make sure the expansion valve and ac compressor is really not faulty? btw, system had no leaks, new denso compressor with working clutch, flushed evaporator done proper with acetone flushed to no smells, and 130 psi air compressor, no engine check lights, basically the works done right and proper. I saw your videos its either the Exp valve or the ac compressor, but as you know, it all starts with the smallest problem first right? so I think maybe I opened the low side gauge valve too long for the evap to freeze and i got super 0 low on the high line and super high psi on the low end. The refrigerent didn't even empty by half, what do you think? ANYBODY!? expansion valve was carquest part from autozone, you think that's the problem? I only used official service manual specs levels for all chemicals. My last fear is the evaporator being screwed! that's a 800 dollar job or 20 hour for a blow motor assembly novice. BTW I flushed all lines, flushed evaporator, replaced the entire system except the lines and evap. I saw all the flow charts you made, what am I missing here? I got a perfect system, hour vacuums, everything good, but i'm high on low and 0 at the high pressure line, "WTF IS GOING ON! I WANT THE COLD MEXICAN BEER!!! I WANT ROOM SERVICE!!!!!"
mine worked perfectly for 6 years that i had it, then I decided to be a good owner and take it in for a routine maintenance, some 18 year olds were running the shop at the time, they did an AC recharge it worked for a while but less than a year later my AC is completely dead, blows warmer air than is outside, Im furious, my advice if it aint broke dont fix it, just keep driving dont do jack, some smart japanese people in the factory assembled it dont let some inexperienced jebronys in a dirty garage ruin it
Hello I have a question. I have Honda hrv 2019 I took my car to a Honda dealership 3 times because the car doesn't start with the Turn of the key. When the car was new the car starts right away but now it has 30000 miles and it doesn't start right away it takes about 1 to 2 seconds before my car starts. When I take it to a dealership the dealership said Everything is ok but ones I am home and my car parked overnight it doesn't start right away again. The dealer said the car starts normally. But when I leave to work I hear cranking then a little pouse and car starts or it cranking for 2 seconds and then itstarts . But when the car at dealership the car starts normally every time! I am so confused. Should I worry about it or it's just normal as the car ages?
Hi. My compressor clutch is working but, once turn on the AC, then it gets overheated and clutch damper rubber is melt out. Once clutch on, it does not detached even I turned off AC due to overheat. Clutch is rotating properly, so compressor piston is not seized yet.. And o notice that clearance between pulley and new clutch is too closed so that it is contacting in AC off condition. What do you think my problem? Of course AC is not working at all. My old and new clutch damper rubber is already melt out.
I have a 2014 Kia I had a new engine was put in 2018 by the dealership. Ever since I have not been able to add Refrigerant, it will not take any at all. When I try to add refrigerator it fills like a bunch a air is in the line. It worked perfect before the new engine was installed Any suggestions?
Removing the pulley is annoying as hell. I did that on my Mazdaspeed 3 TWICE. And the second time found that the compressor shaft where the pulley sides was worn out causing a wobble. But I agree, the cost of the pulley kit is so much cheaper. I got 2.5 years on my repair :)
Might be worth mentioning that there are different types of refrigerant for car AC systems...the older stuff is R134A but the newer stuff is R1234yf and it's *really* expensive (something like $800 for a 10 pound tank vs. $80 for a 30 pound tank of R134A). IIRC it also runs at much higher pressures than R134A so messing with one of those AC systems might not be worth it for a DIYer
INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench Thanks for sharing it very helpful video Take care and have a great weekend INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Nice work. I need to know if the clutch travel to close the air gap is accomplished by distortion or flex in the compressor clutch plate, or if that travel is accommodated by a sliding shaft. No one ever mentions this.
I had intermittent AC clutch slipping a few years ago on my 1998 Frontier with 260K miles. I practiced on a seized compressor, and was able to remove the clutch drive plate (used three 5mm bolts to extract it) and remove the thinner of the two shims to repair the slippage issue. And I did all that without even taking the AC belt off !!!
do you have a gauge set to get some pressure readings? there is a chance you are building up too much pressure with the higher rpms and your pressure sensor is shutting the compressor down.
@@myRatchets I was thinking that same thing. I do have a set, I took a screen shot of the chart in the video and at some point I'll have to try to fix it. Thanks for the input!
My ac keeps leaking where the low pressure line connects to the compressor. I've replaced the o-ring several times (also tried OEM o-ring part#) and still leaks. I replaced the line with new OEM and still leaks. I don't know what else to do but to replace the compressor.
what is the usual leakage over time? 1 ounce per 4 years maybe? i notice i have to top up my system every 5 years. i wait until the system can no longer cool below 42F at the vent. after topping up it gets as low as 38F
I have 4.44 volts coming back the wrong way, from the alternator regulator, (thin Red wire) not the thick red cable wire, from the regulator to the 10 amp fuse, in the fuse box, and the 4.44 volts is collidinding with the 12.80 volts, on the 10 amp fuse, no crank.
If your AC system is already empty of refrigerant, a relatively inexpensive way to look for leaks is to charge the system with R152A from canned air / canned dusters. You will need a can tap and adapter. Once the system is charged, spray soapy water on the system components and look for bubbles forming. R152a is rated as a "low global warming potential" refrigerant, so, unlike R143a, it is legal to vent it into the atmosphere. R152a will function as a refrigerant in the system, however it will not cool as efficiently as a R143a, and it is not approved for use due to its flammability.
@@christophervanzetta R152A is a (temporary) drop-in replacement for R134A. All other AC service procedures apply, including evacuation, lubricant, and desiccant replacement.
I've been showing them on my garage build video's. If you haven't been seeing those hit the notification button next to subscribe button. TH-cam is funny sometimes.
Just had my A/C serviced this morning, because it wasn’t working anymore. Turned out the electrical connector on the A/C compressor wasn’t clicked on properly.
Hey whats up i have a 2004 silverado 2500hd and my problem with my A/C is that when i turn the truck on the ac blows cold but after 20-30 of driving it it starts to blow warm air. It does that everyday.
All AC systems do not leak if they do then there's a problem either with O-rings or stuff that wasn't tightened down to begin with but if you're pulling a vacuum and you're letting it hold and it's holding then you don't have a leak that's kind of absurd just to say everything leaks
And then you have people like me who have already changed out the O-rings and installed new hoses under the hood only to have the system leak down again after a week. So HELL NO, I’m not pulling out the evaporator of a 1986 Toyota truck with 50 y/o plastic. Lol…That bitch is getting a can of Leak Stop for this year and maybe next year I’ll have time to install a new evaporator and expansion valve.
I have been to air conditioning/refrigeration school and I've worked in this field as a professional. I have to say this guy explains things very well!
Thanks, I try to explain the basics and sprinkle some technical stuff on top. Instead of the other way around haha
You have to know your systems before you can explain it to someone else this well. Nice job!
Thank you Sir for your remarkable explanation!
Well explained, thankyou
A very comprehensive exposition of a given subject on a vehicle’s A/C delivered for the purpose of instruction for us common masses. Thank goodness for your channel 🙏🏽
Glad it was helpful!
My car was having an a/c issue last year. I checked everything on the mechanical side of the system and the pressures as well, everything was normal so I deemed it to be an electrical issue. After a few days worth of tracing, I discovered that the ambient air temperature sensor behind the grille was broken. I replaced it and the a/c was working like normal again. I’ve never serviced a/c systems before and I’m not HVAC certified but I gained some experience through building larger industrial sized air conditioners for Lennox Industries years ago. I never knew that experience would benefit me years down the road, but it did.
What kind of vehicle was it?
@@149130 2013 Ford Fusion.
I replaced a compressor clutch on a vw 1.8T. You reminded me of the trouble replacing that snap ring using a mirror because even trying to angle the compressor towards you, you still are inserting it blindly onto the shaft. It's probably my most frustrating repair ever but well worth it as it's worked well ever since (+6y).
Nice, glad it has held up for you.
I love your AC videos!! They are my favorite! I’ve learned so much from you on this subject. Btw, I replaced just the coil on my 2007 Infiniti M45 and the compressor lasted two more years.
Tried this UV in a can, but the hose leaked from where it was connected with the can. Got a cheap gauge set ($40) from Amazon and it worked surprisingly well. The thing is that it is very hard to find a product that has UV but does not have sealer.
You can buy the dye by itself.
I love your videos. You are very thorough and explicit. Keep up the great work 👍 👏. I got one question though, I have 2 dodge rams (99 and 01 ram 1500) and both have the "no sense bus". I did my best to check the obvious and did find some broken or leaking sensors. Have u ever done any video on this particular problem?
Great information. I had problems with my AC compressor on my second car back in the day.
Hello R&W,
Thanks for all you do. Great vlogs, videos and tutorials.
Greatly appreciated. I have a situation. My Honda mini-van AC is not blowing cold nor hot. Not sure if they are related. My compressor clutch does not engage. Based on your tutorial, it may be due to low Freon. Will this prevent Freon from going into the system? If so, found using a paper clip will engage the clutch after removing the compressor relay. Please confirm that I need to use the paper clip to engage clutch when recharging system with Freon. But, on the question of not blowing hot, does it have anything to do with the AC side of things?
Common problems from not so common to common.
10- bad relay or fuses
9- bad pressure switch
8- clogged cabin filter
7- bad clutch
6- bad ac compressor
5- bad cooling fans relay/fuse
4- bad blower fan or resistor
3- frozen evaporator
2- bad orifice tube/valve
1- ac leak
thanks for your video. very helpful. not sure why many videos like this doesn't mention that some AC have a clutchless compressor, Variable displacement compressor. in this case it looks like the compressor is always moving. It took me a while to figure out why my compressor was moving all the time. so, how to know if compressor is engaged with a VDC compressor ? I also did a scan and came up with AC not equipped, and Fault communicating with Vehicle ECU. trying to figure out if AC was supposed to show up in this scan or if in fact is a communication problem. electrical or mechanical ? lol. going insane trying to figure this one out. Low pressure 70, high pressure 140 psi.
Very good video brother, like the others, thanks for the time and patience, my cuestion is after you find a big leak and fix the leak, 'hose leak in my case' the system needs pag oil also? Hope you can awnser my cuestion and thanks again
First of all thank you for this info, very helpful.
Now for my issue.
2012 VW Golf 2.5. 150k miles.
Theres cold air (but not as cold a good AC syatem), only when the engine has some load (freeway speeds but even sometimes it stops)
Any ideas about this issue.
Thx in advance.
I have that harbor freight manifold gauge. When you finish working on the car, do you zero out your gauge? This will release the refrigerant in the lines, so it's probably not best practice to do that every time?
Hi nice to meet you. Very nice channel👍🏿.
Pherhaps you know this. My Suzuki Swift 2008, keeps losing power during driving or at a red light. It started after the transmission got revised and sparkplugs changed. In 6 years before these repairs, the problem never occurred .
The codereader at the mechanic found out that ‘oxygen sensor 2’ was high during the live scan. We decided to change the Cathelac converter, because it could send wrong data to the oxygen sensor.
The car drove much smoother, but after 4 days the problem popped up again.
So what do you think the problem is?
Great videos you explain things very well. What might the problem be if the high side reading won't go above 125?
Hello, thanks for the great video. I have a good one here. I have a 2003 Infiniti fx35, I replaced an ac aluminum line and the condenser and replaced the o-rings as well. I still have the original compressor which engages every time I turn on the AC but I have to wait and drive or idle for a while until it finally cools down. Sometimes I have to turn it on and off a few times while idling or driving for it to finally cool down. Should I replace the compressor anyways even tho it always engages without problems? Thanks for the video.
Great info, thanks,
but what if you have a clutch less system used by the VW group, how do you go about testing and checking if it works or not?
I am always amazed how good you explain even the most difficult problems, you do a great job up and I really appreciate your help. Keep it up
I watched alot of ac system videos of yours, i have a question, how long does it take for a frozen (overcharged, a hasty charged) evaporator to thaw out in 105 degree weather before trying again to make sure the expansion valve and ac compressor is really not faulty? btw, system had no leaks, new denso compressor with working clutch, flushed evaporator done proper with acetone flushed to no smells, and 130 psi air compressor, no engine check lights, basically the works done right and proper. I saw your videos its either the Exp valve or the ac compressor, but as you know, it all starts with the smallest problem first right? so I think maybe I opened the low side gauge valve too long for the evap to freeze and i got super 0 low on the high line and super high psi on the low end. The refrigerent didn't even empty by half, what do you think? ANYBODY!? expansion valve was carquest part from autozone, you think that's the problem? I only used official service manual specs levels for all chemicals. My last fear is the evaporator being screwed! that's a 800 dollar job or 20 hour for a blow motor assembly novice. BTW I flushed all lines, flushed evaporator, replaced the entire system except the lines and evap. I saw all the flow charts you made, what am I missing here? I got a perfect system, hour vacuums, everything good, but i'm high on low and 0 at the high pressure line, "WTF IS GOING ON! I WANT THE COLD MEXICAN BEER!!! I WANT ROOM SERVICE!!!!!"
If I add some refrigerant the the system, is it necessary to also add pag oil?
Great timing, and super informative! Earned my sub!
another good information video, keep em coming good job
Have you done a AC conversion from R-12 to R134 for older GM trucks ? Would like to see that
mine worked perfectly for 6 years that i had it, then I decided to be a good owner and take it in for a routine maintenance, some 18 year olds were running the shop at the time, they did an AC recharge it worked for a while but less than a year later my AC is completely dead, blows warmer air than is outside, Im furious, my advice if it aint broke dont fix it, just keep driving dont do jack, some smart japanese people in the factory assembled it dont let some inexperienced jebronys in a dirty garage ruin it
I learned more from you and I graduated from a trade school
Hello I have a question. I have Honda hrv 2019 I took my car to a Honda dealership 3 times because the car doesn't start with the
Turn of the key. When the car was new the car starts right away but now it has 30000 miles and it doesn't start right away it takes about 1 to 2 seconds before my car starts. When I take it to a dealership the dealership said
Everything is ok but ones I am home and my car parked overnight it doesn't start right away again. The dealer said the car starts normally. But when I leave to work I hear cranking then a little pouse and car starts or it cranking for 2 seconds and then itstarts . But when the car at dealership the car starts normally every time! I am so confused. Should I worry about it or it's just normal as the car ages?
Hi. My compressor clutch is working but, once turn on the AC, then it gets overheated and clutch damper rubber is melt out. Once clutch on, it does not detached even I turned off AC due to overheat.
Clutch is rotating properly, so compressor piston is not seized yet..
And o notice that clearance between pulley and new clutch is too closed so that it is contacting in AC off condition.
What do you think my problem?
Of course AC is not working at all. My old and new clutch damper rubber is already melt out.
I have a 2014 Kia I had a new engine was put in 2018 by the dealership. Ever since I have not been able to add Refrigerant, it will not take any at all. When I try to add refrigerator it fills like a bunch a air is in the line. It worked perfect before the new engine was installed Any suggestions?
Removing the pulley is annoying as hell. I did that on my Mazdaspeed 3 TWICE. And the second time found that the compressor shaft where the pulley sides was worn out causing a wobble. But I agree, the cost of the pulley kit is so much cheaper. I got 2.5 years on my repair :)
Thanks for your comprehensive explanations! Really apprecite ! 👌🏻👌🏻
Great basic ( and detailed ) info ,, and explained very good . Thanks ! ,, 👍 .
I have a 1992 olds 88 Royale how can you tell if it’s engaging?
Very good explanation and greatly appreciated!! Keep up the great content!
Thanks, will do!
Good explanation
Might be worth mentioning that there are different types of refrigerant for car AC systems...the older stuff is R134A but the newer stuff is R1234yf and it's *really* expensive (something like $800 for a 10 pound tank vs. $80 for a 30 pound tank of R134A). IIRC it also runs at much higher pressures than R134A so messing with one of those AC systems might not be worth it for a DIYer
Wow, my truck is still on R12.
INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench
Thanks for sharing it very helpful video
Take care and have a great weekend
INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Nice work.
I need to know if the clutch travel to close the air gap is accomplished by distortion or flex in the compressor clutch plate, or if that travel is accommodated by a sliding shaft. No one ever mentions this.
Its flex in the compressor clutch plate
@@myRatchets Thank you!
I had intermittent AC clutch slipping a few years ago on my 1998 Frontier with 260K miles. I practiced on a seized compressor, and was able to remove the clutch drive plate
(used three 5mm bolts to extract it) and remove the thinner of the two shims to repair the slippage issue. And I did all that without even taking the AC belt off !!!
Sir, are you near Fresno, CA?
find the drain for you AC under the car or in the firewall. If you find dye coming out of there, you're evaporator is leaking.
In order to decrease engine wear and load for when the AC is off, wouldn't it be better to have the clutch on the pulley driven by the engine?
Only if the belt drives nothing else. The water pump and alternator must turn all the time.
I have 2.89 volts on a red wire, with no battery connected to the negative or positive cables, is it my alarm battery, shorted to a positive wire.
Thank you for the clear understandable explanation and instruction.
Glad it was helpful!
What about a bad txv? How to change one?
Do you know how to work or , fix on 2011 e350 econoline van s heavy duty xlt at all ?
Can’t wait till you hit 1m subs, you deserve it greatly.
Excellent!
I got a good one... AC blows real cold at idle but cruising down the road it's not nearly as cold! Compressor is good.
do you have a gauge set to get some pressure readings? there is a chance you are building up too much pressure with the higher rpms and your pressure sensor is shutting the compressor down.
@@myRatchets I was thinking that same thing. I do have a set, I took a screen shot of the chart in the video and at some point I'll have to try to fix it. Thanks for the input!
My ac keeps leaking where the low pressure line connects to the compressor. I've replaced the o-ring several times (also tried OEM o-ring part#) and still leaks. I replaced the line with new OEM and still leaks. I don't know what else to do but to replace the compressor.
Great video! And I like the Prelude. My daily driver is a 1999 Prelude. #Letsgobrandon
It's Putin's fault !
what is the usual leakage over time? 1 ounce per 4 years maybe? i notice i have to top up my system every 5 years.
i wait until the system can no longer cool below 42F at the vent. after topping up it gets as low as 38F
if you have to top off every 4-5 years I would say that falls under usual leakage. If you have to top it off every year that is too much.
How about a leak inside of the evaporator? That happened with my parent's car.
Thanks for not yelling like Scotty
I have 4.44 volts coming back the wrong way, from the alternator regulator, (thin Red wire) not the thick red cable wire, from the regulator to the 10 amp fuse, in the fuse box, and the 4.44 volts is collidinding with the 12.80 volts, on the 10 amp fuse, no crank.
I keep watching all your videos, waiting for the day you revele the source of that shirt!
Holy! A manifold with no missing knobs lol
what shirt is that?
@@myRatchets same one you were wearing in this clip. Went looking for them a few years back. Couldn't find one that was the same.
I got them from a site called automotive workwear, they are pretty good.
@@myRatchets the red kap crew long sleeve looks close enough. Thanks!
I replaced my compressor and the AC is working except the vents below the dash (for the feet) are not working. What seems to have gone wrong?
My system shows full, I dont see any leaks, and my compressor clutch spins on and off when turning the ac on and off. But it still blows warm air.
Good information 👍
If your AC system is already empty of refrigerant, a relatively inexpensive way to look for leaks is to charge the system with R152A from canned air / canned dusters. You will need a can tap and adapter. Once the system is charged, spray soapy water on the system components and look for bubbles forming. R152a is rated as a "low global warming potential" refrigerant, so, unlike R143a, it is legal to vent it into the atmosphere. R152a will function as a refrigerant in the system, however it will not cool as efficiently as a R143a, and it is not approved for use due to its flammability.
soapy water wont work on small leaks or leaks through compressor shaft
But what about pulling a vacuum to rid the system of moisture?
Bad advice
@@christophervanzetta R152A is a (temporary) drop-in replacement for R134A. All other AC service procedures apply, including evacuation, lubricant, and desiccant replacement.
Good video, reminds me mine ain’t working.🤦♂️
Super . the best 👍🏼
thanks
How are the avocados doing? Please do some video on those!
I've been showing them on my garage build video's. If you haven't been seeing those hit the notification button next to subscribe button. TH-cam is funny sometimes.
Just had my A/C serviced this morning, because it wasn’t working anymore.
Turned out the electrical connector on the A/C compressor wasn’t clicked on properly.
somebody probably had messed with it or something else. they usually don't come loose on their own.
@@myRatchets Exactly!
hey ! love your content ! are you persian ?
thanks, yes Iranian.
When I turn on the ac or heat I hear a hissing, what's going on?
I have to admit, when I saw the can of refrigerant in the thumbnail I thought you were going to tell people to add leak sealer to the system.
We need practical video and the video in which compressor only cool at high rpm or highway speed and all cooling fans working fine
Thanks good stuff
That's super awesome video buddy thanks for the video it helped me out I know what to do now
Glad I could help
Bro, are you located in Central California? If so, I want you to teach me that and I'll pay for your time
Hey whats up i have a 2004 silverado 2500hd and my problem with my A/C is that when i turn the truck on the ac blows cold but after 20-30 of driving it it starts to blow warm air. It does that everyday.
You are awesome !
No You are :-)
All AC systems do not leak if they do then there's a problem either with O-rings or stuff that wasn't tightened down to begin with but if you're pulling a vacuum and you're letting it hold and it's holding then you don't have a leak that's kind of absurd just to say everything leaks
👍
And then you have people like me who have already changed out the O-rings and installed new hoses under the hood only to have the system leak down again after a week. So HELL NO, I’m not pulling out the evaporator of a 1986 Toyota truck with 50 y/o plastic. Lol…That bitch is getting a can of Leak Stop for this year and maybe next year I’ll have time to install a new evaporator and expansion valve.
It's holding a charge for now!
HI
I was here FIRST!
First