Poor Automotive A/C Cooling: Do You Have a Low Refrigerant Charge Level?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2019
- In this video we go over how to recognize a low charge level in your vehicles A/C system.
Basic R-134A Manifold Gauge Set:
amzn.to/32JTGCc
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
My company TH-cam Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Basic R-134A Manifold Gauge Set:
amzn.to/32JTGCc
FordTechMakuloco is this set any good? I was thinking of getting yellow jacket brand in the future but I’d like a cheap set too.
Nice! I bought a set at a garage sale and it bent my low side valve 😒
Still using the AutoStoned manifold and vacuum. Free to rent with a $300 deposit. I'll have to get that set and a vacuum, maybe next year.
I diagnosed a bad low-side switch with a multimeter...I found out that the switch contacts are normally closed when the compressor should be running. After making sure I had freon in the system, I jumped the terminals together, system ran great, recovered the freon, replaced the switch and valve, pulled a vacuum, and filled it up. Fixed for -$30- $40 after freon (that damn needle valve)
Can you tell me if tid codes for mode 6 are publicly posted or where I can get them for 99 expedition 5.4. Got what I believe to be a misfire but it is faint and only felt in drivability posing as a transmission slip. I have a few tid codes that i need to onow what they hex 41 for example.
drome010381 code 6 codes?
@@weldingjunkie yeah I will probably murder the proper explanation but I believe it is a type of diagnosis protocol and not all scanners/software are capable of determining what the manufacturer meant by a certain test #. For example, I was looking for $21 which is hexadecimal 21 with ford I found it is a vacuum pressure code. I was able to reach out to Forscan and they pointed me to a Ford website that has their descriptions.
I have been doing a/c work for about 10 years on heavy equipment and automotive.. you are spot on! 👍👍
Brian,
Great video! Both my 2002 and 2005 Focus have FOT systems so this video was very explanatory. I completely re did the 2002s AC system last summer (new compressor, condenser, dryer, and orifice tube). All new o-rings as well. I get 40F outlet air at 97F ambient. Got to do the same to the 2005 soon. Thanks!
God bless
Paul
Brain I wanted to thank you again for all your awesome videos. I've used your videos to do work on my f150. You go into such detail and show us everything we need to know to do it ourselves. Again thank you.
Nice Work! This is the weather for A/C problems! A lot of people don't know that the A/C system comes on in the winter during defrost, so if the struggled through the summer, definitely get it fixed in the fall!
If you turn it on
I turn it off!!
Perfect! I searched all over and couldn't find my answer, and remembered I subscribed to your channel and searched your videos and found the exact same symptom I'm having with a 2003 Navigator that I recently bought. The low pressure side goes from 10 to 55 psi and back repeatedly and I hear the compressor clicking on and off. Although I'd like to figure out why it's low on refrigerant (leak or failing part somewhere?), I'll assume for now that the car is 20 years old and maybe has never had an A/C service, so I'll recover/vacuum/refill the system. Thank you so much, so glad I remembered you! A must have channel for any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury owner/DIYer!
Thanks for adding the symptoms for the txv “expansion valve” system and some break down how how those compressor works. Good stuff
My 2005 F150 has a fixed orifice tube as well. Btw, the dryer and tubes going into the firewall were a bear to reinstall after doing the valve cover seals. Thanks for all the great videos!
Really like ac videos. You make the best step by step videos. Thanks for taking the time.
Hi Brain ! First and foremost, I want to thank you for all your time and effort to make these videos. Its alot of work. You have saved my A$$ many times over the years with my Ford vehicles. I'm currently chasing a problem with my 2011 Taurus SHO A/C system. My wife drives this car everyday and tells me that at idle the A/C temp in the car starts to blow noticeably less colder air...not hot but warmer air. So, I charged the system first with PAG 46 and then followed with the R134-A. Initially the clutch wasn't coming on even though I turned the A/C turned on in the cabin to MAX with full speed on the blower fan. Within a few minutes,6-8min, the clutch switched on...as did the engine fan... At this point the 134 was able to be sucked into the low side....but only for about 1 minute, because the comp clutch switched off again. Again, a few 6-8 min later the clutched kicked on again and I was able to get the entire can of 134 into the system and the clutch stayed engaged from that point on until I turned off the car. When I went in the car to turn if off, it was super cold inside. Just to note, the gauge on the can of 134 stated about 40lbs was the pressure by the time the can was empty. Figured I was good to go. Although, the next morning, the system was acting like I never did anything to it. Acted like it did before I did the work. I drove it awhile and I could tell when the compressor switched on because the air got a bit cooler, but seconds later the air got much warmer. It was like the comp was switching off and on....like in this video. Do I have a bad low pressure switch or did all the 134 leak out of a bad seal. I am going to get a good manifold gauge set so I can get a better handle on whats happening in the system real time. How can I tell if its the switch(high or low) or a leak ? If the comp stays on it gets cold. Clearly, my limited discovery is that for some reason the comp shuts off for a while(minutes) and then switches back on again(for only a few minutes) Not sure where to go. I kinda think its the low side switch. is the low side switch down low near the comp. On this 2100 SHO I do I work on this comp area from under the car ?
Mr. you have the best video out there explaining the AC system on a car , straight-to-the-point very well explain thanks a lot
Thank you Brian. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Nice. As a DIYer learned rhis with allot of homework and a passion for fixing cars. great video.
Just the correct information I was looking for. My 2018 F-150 output temp is only about 50 degrees and it takes a good 15 minutes to get there. Thanks!
Oh wow! I never about knew/noticed the crimp on the lines. Love your videos! 👏👏👏
This man is a damn good mechanic and super smart. His videos are always helpful
Very helpful . I do HVAC but never messed with my cars AC. Now I have an idea of how to charge it
So Educational, I can relate that because that is what I have experienced it too in one of my work last week. When you charge or add the refregerant at low side, I experience reverse effect, when charging, giving higher RPM, the low side gauge pointer rise instead of going down to indicate suction of the refrigerant, and also notice that high side gauge pointer goes down.
Middle of winter here in Australia, love your channel
I use mine more now than in summer.
Thank you bro!! I have learned SO Much from you and your channel!! 👍💯
As always another great video! Thank you!
You helped me thank you so much my Freightliner cascadia big rigs is running cool now
Thanks my friend. This help me get cold air but my 01 town car only blows cold now. Hot air is now the problem, it's not blowing out from the dash vents only the floor and rear and not very hot. If you can give help I'd appreciate it. Keep up the good work Sir. Thanks for everything, John
Thanks for the great video! I'm looking forward to the rest of this video series.
Thanks for explaining with detail.
You do awesome videos and I do one heck of a talented mechanic thanks for all the videos appreciate it
Thanks for the video. You're the best ford tech i know.
Good information, well presented.
Thanks for your videos.
Great video, as always!!
Thank you.
Great video, thanks! I have exactly what you described with my 2005 f150. What are your thoughts on these DIY air coolant cans you can buy almost anywhere?
Thanks again for another informative video. Sometimes I already know how to do half these thing but just like watching the videos any way 😂 am I the only one
another great video, knowledgeable and clear, great help!
Great video thank you! My 04 F250 6.8 V10 AC compressor is short cycling. I ordered a set of gauges and vacuum pump. When I recharge system should I add pag oil or does the r134a have it already ? The sticker says 2lb 10oz r134a and 9oz pag oil. Any help would be great thank you
Thank you for breaking it down and for all the information. Do you by chance know if the compressor has a scroll valve on 2005 Ford Explorer 4.6L? My low side static pressures are around 55 and my high side pressures are at 135. The dynamic ranges are around 28 for low and 240.
Good refresher. Been awhile since I've done this.
Big thanks to all your fantastic educational videos. I have an erractic reading on my high pressure guage. Could that mean the refrigerant control valve needs replacing on the compressor. I have garages here ( in the Philippines) wanting to just replace the whole compressor.
Thank God, my 97 f250 OBS the evaporator is completely in the engine bay. The evaporator took a about an hour to change.
Very informative video! Thanks!!
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 V8 Hemi and I just replaced my AC compressor the dryer and a bunch of the rubber O-rings and I tried to recharge the system myself obviously I didn't wrong and that's the problem I'm having with mine the compressor kicks on and off so I'm going to bring it to a professional to have the system vacuum rated and charge properly because I have the gauges also and they were both sitting on the low side thank you for the video it helped a lot
Awesome! My 2004 150 is leaking oil on the high side tubbing and hose connection and need to replace the ac manifold. Was really hoping you have the tutorial video on how to remove and install new ac manifold on 2004 5.4l f150
Hello thank you so much my brother...
Can you show me how to change grand marquis 2010 evaporator temperature sensor??
I enjoy watching your video's. Thanks
This is a great series of videos ! This one in paticular got me going on the AC system in my 2006 F150. It was text book low on coolent. I charged it up based on your instructions, cabin air dropped down to 40 F I thought I was set. took it for a ride, 5 minutes down the road the air was back to ambient Temperture. What do think is my next step in troubleshooting?
Thanks for your help
Mike
Very nicely explained, good job!
Your videos have helped me out with my Nissan Armada, so thank you. Also, we're in the same freakin' town. Small world!!
Pretty good video. I will stress that the only way to know how much is in the system is to evacuate it with an a/c(like you did), static pressure does not indicate anything other then something is in the a/c system.
Great video I was told to replace my compressor and that’s it I haven’t put Freon in there since I bought it did the symptoms makes it feel like a rough idle
As always, very educative!
Great job very helpful you made me smarter thank you
I bought an F150 with many-many probs JUST so I could follow Brian and fix er up. Mechanically she's perfect. The body is severely faded and screams I AIN'T GOT NO INSURANCE look about er. THANKS BRIAN
Hey you are a great instructor ive watched other vids of yours for some time now. My question is concerning a 2001 TD Excursion with dual a/c, is there any unique procedures to this thing? Its a FOT up front (it was, I installed a VOV when I had the system opened but may go back to stock if it makes diagnostics too complicated) and a TXV in the rear unit. My problem is I will apply vacuum for a hour at 29 inches, find no leaks, then charge to specs and the system cools poorly like a low charge, no excessive cycling though. Another thing worth noting that I have never experianced before is when its running for enough time to be stable at full cold the compressor gets icy cold to the touch! Usually most cars the compressor will get hot. Do You know what I'm doing wrong? So you know I've done a/c enough to know more than the basics but it hasnt helped me here.
Please your help & advice
I have ford expedition 2012 with an issue on the rear AC not cooled like the front side.
The rear side only pushing air like a Fan.
KNOWLEDGEABLE FordTechMakuloco
Brilliant video tutorial great thank you
God bless you and all your family around you FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great informative video Ford tech
Great informative video!👍👍👍
Good video. My 04 fl50 is doing that exactly guess it’s time to get recharged.
Thanks for the info I need to check the system on my 2010 f150. The AC does not blow cold untill you get to high way speeds.
Make sure the condenser has good air flow, no debris like bugs, leaves, paper and grass for starters.
Just changed out the fan clutch, A/C clutch (just the plate), and idlers on my '05, which helped a lot, but still not where it should be sitting at lights (on a 97 degree day). but now I notice it kicking on and off too fast like that, time for a can of A/C Pro
explained well ,yester day had45l265h it was 100 out .fot 78 caddy 134a conv.
Brian, I would really like to have your opinion on whether the 3.7L engine in the Raptor is reliable and relatively trouble free. I value your opinion very much. Thanks.
Good 👍 to know about the AC work I love ❤️ your video 📷 the are amazing job I can't wait for the next video 📷 #ACWork
Very informative as always! One of my best subs for sure. Have a quick question. I own a 2006 Mercury Milan 3.0L. What type of system would that have?
Most likely a 134a system.
Great Video, Looking forward to seeing more.
Thank you, very helpful!!
Great video, but 1. How to responsibly vacuum and dispose of refrigerant, and 2. A side by side of the gauges for before and after comparison. Thanks.
Great videos, new subscriber here. Basic AC question here... AC’s are a closed system? So if you have low pressure there must be a leak somewhere? And if you repair anything on an ac system you need to pull a vacuum since the “closed” system was opened? Thanks! Love the videos
Yama... hama...its raining cats and dogs out there 🤣😅😂 thanks for the fast, and informative troubleshoot on this.
I have a 2013 Ford Explorer limited and my AC works good but when I turn the AC on something keeps ramping UP then DOWN, UP then DOWN and it only does it when I turn on the AC any ideas what it could be before I take it to the dealer ?
Liking the videos Brian, keep the videos coming
Hello and thank you for this video very informative and helpful :-)
Looking at the static pressure I read 93 PSI which also is the same as ambient temp as well. This only holds true if the system and engine has not been run to as to increase it's temp. On 80's and 90's Fords the low cutout switch was adjustable, when the system was working fine but the customer still complained about cooling output I would adjust the low side to 28 PSI to give that extra cooling.
Great video. Where did u get that work list u have strapped unde r the hood. I would love to get one. Thanks
Thank you again brian! I have this exact same problem on all 4 fords! Curious... Do you advise 5W-30 engine oil on the 2006 F150 4.2L V6 and 4.6L V8, and E-150 4.6L V8? Factory spec is 5W-20. Mileage is 150k+ x4 vehicles.
yes
I need your help. I had map sensor code p0106 come up and I cleared the code by replacing some bad vacuum lines but it’s still running rough and I can’t even get it to 70mph. Please any help you could offer us appreciated
I live in an extremely hot area where temperature gets around 55 C, many people suggested to insulate the suction line in that goes back to the compressor in my car (LP line)
However, some people say it'll harm the compressor for some reason.
Can you please give me a clear answer about whether I should insulate the LP line or not?
What do you think of the recharge kits at auto parts stores?
Great video thanks👍
Another Great Video... Thx...
Any idea how to stop a compressor clutch from cycling (not caused by a low charge)? I've replaced the pressure sensor & outside temp sensor (EVAPORATOR sensor is on order), evacuated the system and recharged to spec. On AC Max, it stays engaged for 14 seconds and dis-engaged for 3.5 seconds (80% duty cycle). On normal, it will vary from a 30% to 50% duty cycle. This started a month ago. The truck is an '16 F150 5.0 Lariat. The A/C gets cold (46F) but not as cold as it did.
I have 2010 F150 Lariat, 5.4L. I had system topped off by my local mech. last summer. He put some refrigerant in, but he said he did not want to overcharge. There are no leaks, but it still is not quite cooling to the max. I want to recover with a Robinair RG6 machine, and totally recharge with new refrigerant. The system holds 24 oz 134a and 6 oz of oil. Question: I assume there is still some oil in system. How much of that 6 oz would I assume is still in the system, and how much to add? Thanks
Great vids... how I wish you were also a Dodge Tech too!!
Hai i have 2015 altima 2.5 sv. The ac will take time to flow cool air usually 6 km to run. And it will off when i increase the rpm more than 2000 or speed above 120 km. I took to shope and checked low and high pressure side the reading are 70psi and 150 psi. Kindly guide..
thks for the info need that
Can you tell me we’re the low side a/c pressure switch is located on a 2010 escape XLT V6? I’ve been looking all over TH-cam and google and can’t find an answer anywhere.
New subscriber after a few videos. You seem pretty knowledgeable about fords. Here’s one for you man. I have a 2013 f150. 5.0. When my ac is on my fans sound like a jet engine. I’ve had it at the dealership, other guys have looked at it. Nobody can figure it out. One shop finally settled on the ac drier and expansion valve. But what I’ve read it’s a sensor. Any thoughts?? A computer strictly for fords was hooked to it while it was roaring loud and nothing was found. Thanks man! And enjoy the video!
The radiator cooling fan should run at full speed when your AC is on, that's completely normal. The condenser is in front of your radiator, in order for your AC to work you have to have very good air flow through that condenser/radiator, thus your radiator fan will be forced to run at much higher speeds than when you are not using the AC.
If your radiator fan is mechanically operated via the old style fan clutch and driven off the engine, same thing happens, the excess heat causes the clutch to engage forcing the fan to spin at a much higher rate of speed.
Nice video!!! A cuestion what type of refrigerant you reccoment to used on, ? Thank you !!
The type your car takes. Most likely 134a
Is the scroll valve problem still prevalent on the newer model Ford vehicles? I locked our Freestyle compressor into full scroll.
What causes the clutch to cycle continuously say at 2,000 rpms and up but not at idle? This is on a 2007 Superduty with the 6.0L. Air gap at the clutch was adjusted back to spec. Thanks.
Thanks a lot for making this video. I am seeing the same issue on my car. I think my leak is from the low side Schrader valve. I need to find the tool to replace the valve core that fits the valve in a Volvo. I am not going to recharge knowing that I have a leak. And I think the leak additives are not the way to go.
Thank you so much, that is exactly what I needed if I can connect the Set (I have Pittsburgh A/C Manifold Gauge Set) somehow to see exact reading, what is the current pressure on both sides without starting the car. For some reason no one else explains this part (including instructions). Please can you also tell why there is a Schrader Core on Blue and Red hoses (though on one side but still). On Yellow hose I understand, bcs one side can go into that 2nd hole, which is below the Observation Window, and that hole has a Schrader Valve, so the end w/Schrader Core can depress it. But Red and Blue connect to Manifold or Manifold Couplers, and there are no Schrader Valves there. Manifold coupler also has one Schrader Core with which it will depress the Schrader Valve on the port of Low or High Pressure. In instructions all the hoses are shown with Schrader Core Ends being on the manifold, where there are no Schrader Valves. Thank you again.
How do you test the 3 wire plug that goes to the alternator on a 2005 Mercury grand marquise. I have located a video that stated common problem with all fords manufactured, the title of the video is "How to test for a broken alternator wire" he showed a 2002 Mercury but it only had 2 wires and he spliced the red wire that failed the test and spliced it to the battery post on the alternator. The alternator suddenly worked, which in short is a broken wire. Now here what's happening with mine, the alternator when working goes 14.2 without a load and when a load is put on i get 14.1 it stays that way for a week. Now the alternator is dropping from 13.8 without a load to when a load is put on it drops to 13.1. The alternator checks out at the parts store, and also the battery when nothing is on and the battery sits it reads 12.6 how do i test the 3 wire plug on this Mercury. P.S Replaced 3 alternators and 1 battery already. Would appreciate any help you could give me FordTechMakuloco.
So after evacuating the system, just add the proper amount of pure R-134a? I thought I saw somewhere that some kind of oil is needed to lubricate the system?
Do I need to completely recharge my car's A/C to find a leak using UV dye?. Or just enough for the compressor to kick on?.
Hi from South Tampa, FL. I replaced the evaporator and accumulator in my 2003 Ranger Edge 3.0L last year. After replacing them I had a dedicated automotive A/C shop evacuate and recharge the system. On 1 September 2020 my a/c started fading out and my original compressor is now cycling too quickly indicative of low or no charge. I have a brand new Four Seasons compressor about to be installed along with a brand new condenser (both from rockauto.com). Once I get these two parts installed I'll have that same shop recharge the system. Only AFTER I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight I learned from reviews that the gauges are trash. I had them for more than 30 days unopened I couldn't take them back, so, I was wondering what brand of gauges would be recommended if money wasn't too much of an issue for a DIY at home mechanic? I'm not an Amazon shopper, so what walk-in store could I go to to pick up a set?
my 12 honda fit a/c is cold, but on long trips 2+hrs the ac doesnt seem to blow strong and temp of air is high. I do see large puddle of water maybe from the unit freezing up. I have to usually take a rest on my long trips to get cold air agian.
Question a/c compressor
Leak freon out of relief valve. Note I change compressor and still doing same thing. It might last a day or a week but will leak freon if I add some any advice?
What is the story if you have a drop in psi on the high side during compressor clutch engagement.?
Thanks Brian,
Ive got 2010 explorer with rear ac
Vehicle came in for no a/c cooling issue. Ambient temp is like 110F.
Hooked up my gauges engine off
And found 250psi low side.
Started the system and the readings were:
110 low side and around 250 high
I knew right away the compressor is shot.
Flushed the whole system and Replaced the
Compressor,
condenser,
orifice tube,
high pressure line &
cooling fan as well.
Recharged the system and rechecked my readings and they were:
Low side 60-70
High side around 250-300
And no cooling whatsoever..
Right away i knew there's a blockage in the system.
Evacuated & Unhooked everything and flushed again "twice"
Recharged and rechecked,
Low side around 60 and dead slowly going down to 40's neighborhood.
And cooling started coming out of the vents between 60-50F
The thing i don't like about this is the new compressor doesn't cycle off..!
Its running non stop..
I drove the car highway for about an hour, watching my thermometer in the center vent with my scanner showing the compressor clutch pid.
And guess what,
The compressor kicked off on 31F degrees coming out of the vents.
I felt good coz my canin temp sensor at least works. 😃
Right away I suspected the low pressure switch mounted on the accumulator,
Replaced with OE part and rechecked the cycling, but no change.
My question now :
Why my low pressure reading is moving dead slow to go down. ??
One thing I did not change is my receiver dryer/accumulator becoz its not available and I didn't wanna use aftermarket.
Does a bad accumulator cause the system to be sucked down ever so slowly like this..??
Why is my com not cycling on and off..????
its brand new OE. ???
Do you think a partially blocked accumulator would cause such condition..??
Pls. Share your thoughts.
Love your channel man 🌷
I had this same issue, turns out I was overcharged which can give similar symptoms as an undercharge. The compressor frequency cycle is dependent on evap heat load and engine RPM which is controlled by the low side pressure switch or evap temp sensor. If you are overcharged you will have higher pressure at the TXV, increased load on the engine which will use more fuel, could damage the compressor, higher pressure = higher vent temps. If your compressor does not cycle on recirculate with low to medium fan speed after the cabin has cooled most likely you are overcharged.
Metal Halide
thanks man for your share
I think i do.
I think its overcharged yes.
But the tag says 44oz and do i did.
But then i look at the ambient temp and said to myself thats too much..
Engine off, static pressure I'm reading 166psi
Tomorrow I'm gonna reduce that to 120psi static, close enough to ambient temp.
and recheck my readings and cooling
If the compressor started cycling like it supposed to be. Then you're the man 👍
I'll be posting what omes out.
But how come..?
The tag sticker says 44oz.
How could that possibly be too much..?? 😟
Could that be related to blockage in the system in anyway..?
If i do still have blockage, its gonna be in the accumulator..coz like i said, I did not change it..i just flushed it with 401 like 4 times to get it to clrar out.
But before it was CV ompletely blocked.
@@leo28a Static pressure is no indication of current charge, even with a few ounces you will read the same pressure. You have to adjust pressures with the windows down, out of direct sunlight, A/C on recirculate, fan on high, let stabilize for 5 minutes.
@@leo28a If you have any kind of restriction both your low and high side will have lower pressures because there is less pressure at the compressor, its possible to even pull a vacuum on the low side if the restriction is bad.
I have a 2002 Ford Excursion and the air isn't cooling well. Low side pressure 10 psi, high side pressure 200 psi. No compressor noise, no cycling. ambient temp 92. Clogged orifice tube? Thoughts, ideas??
God bless you sir.