What a thorough and outstanding study of a product...the BEST I've come across by far!!! I shall follow your method!!!...THANK YOU SO MUCH for the master class.
Wow, thank you for the super prompt reply. We have a local Brewers decorators merchant, and they definitely stock Osmo. So will give them a try, as they seem a lot more knowledgeable than the usual DIY sheds. Many thanks again.
Hi Peter - over the past few days I've been making a couple of bookshelf units that have oak tops. I've now applied 2 coats of OSMO PolyX Gloss to the oak and I must say that the finish has a really gorgeous sheen that shows off the grain beautifully. It was also very easy and quick to apply. Very happy! Darrel
Another combination that I’ve had very good luck with is to apply it with a pad, buff it into the surface with a pad on a random orbit sander or buffer, wipe off any excess finish if there are visible wet spots then finish buffing with a clean pad. This sounds like a lot of steps but really is quit fast and yields excellent results.
Hi Craig, I use Osmo on almost every project that I make. It is the easiest finish to apply, it gives consistent results and always looks great. Cheers. Peter
Peter. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this video and so very articulately. I absolutely love PolyX and the ideas and recommendations you've made have helped a lot. Thank you Sir.
Hallo Peter, thank you for your video again, it was great to look at. I saw you with these pads from 3M and I want to notice you on a GREAT product calles Micro-Mesh 3 x 4 Soft Touch Pads. Color-Coded super-fine grit of Micro-Mesh pads will give all your projects an unparalleled glossy finish. Foam-backed ultra fine grit 3" x 4" double-sided pads put a polished sheen on wood. Pads are washable and reusable many times. The ultra large surface area will make quick work of any project. Use moderate to light pressure on dry surfaces. The pads are from a grit from 1.500 till 12.000. I hope you want to try them one day. I wish all the best, Henrie.
Hello Peter, I follow you everywhere ;-) Next time your in the Netherlands you know where you can drink a cup of tea. The maker off micro-mesh is micro-surface.com. You can buy it everywhere, even at Axminster :-) I used the 3" x 4" pads and I love them. Buy Henrie.
Hello Peter, reference your lint free paper I use rolls of Plenty (formerly Bounty) which can be bought in most supermarkets. It is purportedly a paper towel but when mopping up spilt liquids it can be wrung out an re-used or even washed and hung out to dry. There are about half a dozen types in the range but I use Plenty Fat Ones as you get about 50% more for your money. Worth a look I'd say. ATB Scott
Use a buffer or your rotex for applying the Osmo after the first coat, I also I do minimum of 4 coats I only sand after first coat and 3rd, after 1st I use pad or 400 grit, after 3rd I use pad or 1000 grit. Using rotox or buffer to apply coats produces amazing results.
Thanks for the response Peter. I've just stopped for a coffee after 4 shelves out of 6. A bit disappointed that I'll have to touch up the chimney breast paint as I've caught the wall with the brush :(
Hi Tony, Unfortunately any oil based product will soak into an emulsion finish. You may need to let the Osmo dry and then dilute (equal parts) some PVA with water and paint that over the affected area. Let that dry and then redo that small area with emulsion. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, that's great. Thanks for the advice and all the best for the channel, some great videos on here and they're very well done. Tony
Great video as always Peter. It would be nice to see a build video series of the new miter saw stand and beside that I would be looking forward to a shop tour as well. In your videos your shop looks so well organized.
Tamás Elkán Hi Tamas, I am in the process of making the video of the mitre saw station. It is at least another 2-3 weeks from completion but is looking good so far. When half of the workshop is a film studio it has to look tidy - you should see it when I am not filming ! Peter
Hi Peter. I have applied Osmo PolyX on to Red Oak and Walnut using one of the reticulated foam 3M pads which you evaluated in your video, and I was delighted at the resultant finish. I noticed that you used Satin finish in our evaluation. Do you prefer this to the Gloss option?
Hello peter I've been using osmo for about year now after watching your video on this product , I make bookbinding presses / frame ect the finish I get using a Harris Classic Brush for applying the first coat , I then rub off with lint free cloth and I get a smooth deep lustre . I have tried using a cheaper brush but I find the finish is not as good . Thank you for the great videos
Terry De'ath Hi Terry, I think that different situations require different methods of applying finishes such as Osmo. I favour the brush on/wipe off technique but have also seen how the Osmo experts like to do it. I think that any method that delivers the results that satisfy the user must be good. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Peter
Some great tips there, thanks for the video. I'm using osmo top oil for some living room shelving. Brushed on as they are in situ. Lovely finish but the fumes are still present after 6 days. I wonder if I used too much oil.
The fumes are not as bad as some other products. It takes about 14 days for 99% curing and so do not worry. I brush on and then wipe off with a lint free cloth. This way it dries much more quickly and you can then build up 3 or 4 thin coats in 2 days and it is dry completely after 3. Peter
Hello Peter and thank you very much for this video. I am currently working on a kitchen counter and already applied a first coat of Osmo 3045 clear satin yesterday. I applied it with a fine brush and wiped everything off with a cloth. I am only now seeing your video, and wondering if I should apply the second coat with a pad, and maybe even do an intermediate tub with a clean, dry pad. What do you think about this? Thank you again! Emma
Hi Emma, You should not need to do an intermediate rub with a pad unless you have some uneveness to overcome. Just put on a second thin coat and take it from there. Using thin coats does make for a better finish but it may also mean that you need an extra coat. Good luck. Peter
As usual Peter. Great video, helpful and informative. I've watched it several times and went with brushing on and using a pad to very lightly rub down between coats. l did this on a large board of newly planed oak that had been dyed and left to dry for 24 hours. the only trouble was that the Poly-X would not completely dry and even after 3 days in the house it was still tacky?? Have you come across this before? In the end l denibbed the first coat with the pad and tried a second coat which did eventually dry. After another light rub down and some wax polish the fire place fender look great.
Woodgate425 Yes, I have experienced some longer drying times but mainly when it has been cold or I had failed to adequately ventilate during drying. Now technically, being an oil, it will never "dry" as such and will continue to cure for several weeks after application. What I now do if I have some tackiness is to rub it with a lint free cloth and it is then perfect. Despite the Osmo guys saying that I should not do it I too de-nib between coats but mainly because I always get a bit of dust settling due to draughts in the workshop. Peter
Interesting you sanded to 220 as Osmo says do not sand higher than 150 as you burnish the wood and the hard oil wax cannot penetrate grain and becomes cloudy as it sits on top. It’s one of the reasons I stayed away. Seems your fronts look ok though?
best way to finish is this. first coat u polish in with a slow speed machine and white pad. then top coat with a mohair roller. i've been doing wood floors for 41 years btw
Hi Peter, So how about varnishes? I use a lot of clear satin on veneered oak doors and find that a Jenny brush, foam pad on a wooden dowel (axminster tools), is great for applying and even better for the second coat. But sometimes the finish just isn't smooth enough and they do wear out so they are leaving a contaminant in the finish. I shall be giving the pads a try but it would be nice to see comparison by someone who has tried them with oils. Regards Mike
Michael Tricker Hi Mike, I do not use varnishes very often these days but when I used clear satin polyurethane I used to 'kiss' sand with 320 grit between coats. That sanding technique requires a very gentle touch as though you were stroking a nervous cat and only do a handful of strokes with very little pressure. Then vacuum off and wipe with a lint free cloth before applying the next coat. When the final coat has had at least 3 times the recommended time to go off I used to use a green pad (but now I would definitely use a white pad) dipped into hard wax polish to get rid of the final blemishes in the surface and give the most beautiful lustre. When the wax has had a chance to harden buff off with a lint free cloth. Good luck. Peter
Hi Peter, great review, I have been using Osmo here in Canada for over 5 years, beautiful product to use and a great result for my humidors. I have been using pads for 3 years now and they are great. After using a pad or rags to wipe of access, they should be soaked in water before disposal. Have you ever used it on hardwood flooring. I bought some custom Andiroba and would like to apply Osmo for the finish, I have seen different video of applying with a brush two coats with no wiping....I am a little worried about that, what are your thoughts, Regards, Gaetan Delorme of Delorme Humidors
Hi Gaetan, I have not used it for flooring but have seen the results of the two coat, no wiping method and it does come out quite well. Your best bet is to have a test piece. From my early experience you will have to leave a long time for the first coat to dry well - maybe 48 hours. Good luck. Peter
Thanks for your video and thoroughness! It has been really helpful in using the product for the first time on our new floor. I had a question that I'm sure you'll have an answer for if that's okay? I've just put down the first coat of osmo tint on a pine floor. It's come up really well and we're waiting for the first coat to dry now, but I was wondering if you thought it was worth rubbing the floor down with the non-abrasive pad before applying either a second coat or the final oil coat I'll be applying? Any advice greatly appreciated. Jono
+Jonathan Stirrup Hi Jono, I would only give a rub in the odd spot if there was a blemish, perhaps a bit of dust or a scratch. I always find that the first coat seems to take a long time to dry yet the subsequent coats dry more quickly. Try not to put too thick a coat on at any stage - I prefer using a number of thinner coats rather than fewer but thicker coats. Peter
Hi, great video, and very informative. I have used Oslo products in the past, and have found them of a very good quality. I am wondering if you know if they do a product or in fact any manufacturer that will seal and oak table from everyday dinner stains etc but will keep the table looking like the bleached oak that I have? Basically no colour, yellowing etc. If you do know of such a product or method I would be extremely grateful. Regards Vegas baby.
v3ga5b4by Hi Vegas, I believe that Osmo have an oil with almost no pigment in it in their Top Oil range designed for kitchen work surfaces. Try a Google search and then seek absolute advice from your Osmo dealer. I think the range includes clear satin, clear matt and natural. Many thanks for the kind words. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I have used the top oil and it does what it says on the tin. There's very little colour change and yet it does enhance the grain structures. I just completed an elm desktop and having watched Peter's video I used ordinary scotchbright because that''s all I had. turned out wonderfully well and far less effort than all that painting and wiping. Where does on purchase the non abrasive version?
Hi Peter, for first coat, did you leave on the excess Osmo to dry or did you wipe off with a cloth/microfiber right after applying? What was the time period you waited before wiping all the slats with the non-abrasive pad after first coat?
I like to apply several thin coats of Osmo rather than brushing on and leaving it. I might use a brush to apply the oil (or a non abrasive pad) but will wipe the excess off with a lint free cloth. Osmo do not recommend sanding between coats but it is useful to use a non abrasive pad to remove any "nibs". This is best done at least 24 hours after the application but 48 hours would be better. Peter
Hi Peter, another useful video, thanks. I was wondering how long lasting you have found the OSMO finishes to be on furniture. After a time, have you felt the need to refresh the finish, e.g. with a wax polish? Cheers, Darrel
+Darrel Hi Darrel, You question comes at an interesting time. In January 2013 I made a set of side tables that we use every day in our sitting room. One is always in the sunlight the others only get the sun for short periods each day. None of the tables need any refinishing but the one that is in the sun all the time will probably need a simple "wipe-on" coat at the end of this year. It will take about 2 minutes to do and requires no sanding at all - that is the beauty of Osmo - it can be touched up so easily. All of my other furniture items are fine. Peter
Hello Peter. Thank you for the instructional video. Very helpful. Two questions: (1) would Osmo PolyX oil work as a finish on a walnut and ash chess board (with a 0.5" paduak inlay between the board and the frame) that I made? and (2) if so, then may I do the bottom of the chess board, wait for it to dry then flip it over and do the top, or should I try to do the bottom, top and edges all at the same time wait for it to dry then apply further coats?
Hi Abbas, Yes, Osmo will work well on your chess board. It would be a good idea to do the bottom and the edges first and have it on some small blocks face down to do that. After applying the Osmo use a rag to wipe off the bottom of the edges in case of any build up that may go onto the top (which is now underneath). When that is dry, do the top and the edges again with the blocks underneath the bottom. Again wipe off any excess at the bottom of the sides. This way the interface between the two sessions of applying Osmo will be indistinguishable. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Peter...thank you very much for your advice. I will send you a picture of the chess board once I have completed applying the finish. Thanks again. Abbas
Hi could I just say, love and appreciate all your videos, thank you for all your efforts. I have some Osmo Polyx 3032 oil left over from oiling my oak flooring. I have sanded back my Iroko kitchen worktop to bear wood, do you think this oil would be appropriate to use? Many thanks Mike.
hi peteh recently had my oak floor oiled and i THINK they used osmo. however....im not entirely happy with the finish as it looks like it isn't properly sealed (i was expecting the appearence of a laminate floor). it looks a bit grubby and flat after a couple of weeks i gave it a clean and polish with bona products as recommended by flooring company. it's not much better do you think i could give it a quick once over with a coat of satin/gloss osmo oil straight over the bona polish or should i key it with scourer first and then apply top coat with scourer too. thanks for your help
+Chris Roach Hi Chris, It all hinges on what was actually applied in the first place. If a floor has had two coats of Osmo PolyX then it should not look flat as you put it. There is a chance that the company that did the job did not prepare everything well and maybe there were residues of some other (non Osmo) finish left behind. If the company that did the work are unable to offer the service that appears to be required (ie finish the job off to your satisfaction) then you need to chase them. If you are now on your own then the best thing to do is to try a test area somewhere out of the way and lightly sand with 120 or 150 grit to provide a key and then try a thin coat of Osmo PolyX. If that improves things then do the rest and be prepared to put a second coat on. There is a risk that whatever was put on before might need to be removed altogether - only you can make that judgement. Peter
Thanks peter They wont come back but will probably tell me what product they usef. Will the bona polish be a problem? Could I get back in touch with you when I find out what thay used please? Thanks again and best regards Chris
+Chris Roach Hi Chris, I do not know what bona polish is - it is not something that I have ever used. Please do not hesitate to come back to me when you have more information. Good luck. Peter
+New Brit Workshop (Peter) its a water borne floor cleaner and polish. available at homebase, b&q etc... lots of people recommend it. my concern is that i've put a water based product on an oil finished floor (which bona recommend) but now i may need to put oil back on to the bona polish. when i find out more i'll be in touch. and thanks again for your time. speak soon.
Hi Peter, Thank you for yet another great video. Have you tried or do you think it is possible to apply OSMO using the white Festool vlies on a random orbit sander?
I used white Manuel pads on a couple of metres of benchtop and it turned out very well...but looking at the remaining 14 metres, I doubted I had the time or the arm strength to do it. Festool Vlies white pads on an ETS 150/5 on slowest speed was easy and the finish is even better than the manual approach...you can even use a clean pad after the final coat to polish/burnish it. I used a small piece of manual pad to wipe down the surface along the grain after about 5 minutes. The only downside is that the stickiness of the oil tends to wreck the Vlies... one coat on about 8m of 600mm benchtop was about the limit for a single pad.
Thank you, you've really helped me to decide how to begin! Could i ask, ive sanded an old oak church pew. what grit do you think i should finish with before going with the oil? Many thanks, kat
Hi Kat, I would stop at 150 grit but 180 grit will do if that is all you have. If you go any finer then the oil tends not to soak in so well. Allow plenty of time for the first coat. Subsequent coats dry much more quickly. Peter
I have noticed by applying osmo oil stain it gives a lot of uneven staining using oil. I have used sand sealer but it makes staining using oil pointless as too light even after multiple applications. Have you got an idea how to avoid uneven stain on plywood but at the same time avoid multiple application of osmo oil wood stain? thank you
Hi Artur, I would not use any sanding sealer as the Osmo is far better when it is allowed to soak into the wood. You will get uneven results if you apply more in one area than another. Try applying a very even coat with a brush and then removing the excess with a lint free cloth. Alternatively apply the Osmo using a (white) non abrasive pad. Remember that any oil will bring out the natural colours of the wood and plywood can vary in colour particularly after the application of oil. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Dear Peter, thank you for your reply. I agree it works ok without sanding sealer with osmo polyx oil but not with osmo polyx stain oil as you get bloches on the wood.
Hi Peter, Good morning, i have a question please here. what grit sand paper would you use for preparing the surface? i guess i over did it. i used 220 and that gave me cloudy surface, i believe that i smooth it too much and oil couldnt penetrate. your guidance is much appreciated Sir. thanks
Hi Mian, It is best to go no further than 150 grit although I use 180 grit as I have no 150 grit left. If you use too fine a grit then the oil will not bond to the surface. Good luck. Peter
Brilliant Video Peter! Have you Tried a Padco Snappy Applicator? they are not strictly made for solvent based products like The Osmo Polyx, but they work great, they put varnishes and oils on very nicely. I would recommend atleast giving them a go! Subbed and Liked! Ben
Hi peter, Another interesting video, would an intermediate rub with a pad (or even a festool vlies) be a good method for blending in a spot repair? Andrew
Can osmo polyx applied to interior pinewood doors and how many coat of applications is needed, and do we have to sand between coats of application please advice thank you 👍🏽
Hi Rakjkd, Yes, you can use PolyX on interior pine doors. Before you start sand down to 150 or 180 grit making sure that you remove any previous finish. Vacuum off the dust and apply two coats of PolyX. I prefer to apply the oil by brush or with a white non abrasive pad and then rub off the excess with a lint free cloth. You do not need to sand between coats unless you see an imperfection. The first coat takes a lot longer to dry than the second. Peter
Hi Michael, There are loads of places but I am not sure which would suit you best. So, put "non abrasive pads" into Google and look for the white ones. Peter
I'm working on a test piece of pine. First very thin coat of Osmo hardened nicely. Second took over a week. Third is still gummy/sticky after two weeks. Help? Eventually for a pine kitchen countertop.
Hi Linda, That sounds very odd. With me, the first coat takes longer than the stated 24 hours to dry and so I leave it for a couple of days. The subsequent coats dry very quickly. Perhaps you are applying it too generously? Peter
Hi Linda, It is difficult to judge what might have been going on....Did you stir it well? Could you have applied it a little too generously? Have fine did you sand the piece, what grit did you use? Peter
Hi Binks, Try Axminster - www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-webrax-hand-pad-ax23609 If the link does not work go to the Axminster web site and search for "Non abrasive" Peter
Ever tried to use the Festool suffix system but with Osmo products? Basically I mean to change out the original oils with say Osmo top oil 3058 CLEAR, MATT and/or polyX 3062 CLEAR, MATT but using the festool pads/method/system ect.
Hi Bo, No I have not tried that. I am quite happy with the method that I show in the video but then everything can be improved. The Surfix system is designed as a complete system in a box for busy contractors who want a quick and simple approach to finishing on site. For me Osmo ticks every box and is, for me, the best indoor oil around. Peter
I have the surfix myself. Its fine, but Im looking for a more MAT finish.I will try the two Osmo products mentionen very soon myself. Thank you for great great videos in general. Could you consider doing a video on how to produce your own (festool)dominos in custom woodtypes for exposed dominos in furniture (in a dovetail kind of way, make sense?)
Dear Peter, right at this moment i am choosing the right surface finish for a workbench, made from beech. Could you help me regard this Osmo products, this PolyX 3011 Clear Glossy oil would be good for the workbench? I didn't think it will be more slippery than with the linseed oil. The another alternative is the varnishing, with 1k or 2k depend what i choose. I like much better the varnished surface than the oil finished, but please help me with an advise what do you recommend as surface finishing. Oil or varnish? Thank you.
Hi, I was wondering if you could help with this, I am about to use Osmo Oil Raw to treat some soap treated beech wood chairs that are effectively unfinished as they cannot be re-soaped (because of the method used to soap them originally). The manufacturer has been a bit hazy on how to treat them, but if they stay untreated they will mark over time (they have already taken on a bit of discolouration from being touched when pulled out and some darkening on the seat from contact with clothes), my question is how would you recommend I remove these marks before treating with the Osmo Raw? Should I use sand paper? The seat is not solid beech wood but ply with a beech veneer, the rest of the chair is solid beech. I'm quite nervous about getting it wrong as the manufacturer is not giving endorsed advise, so I'm on my own with it. Any advice would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Natasha
Hi Natasha, Some stains can go quite deep and a simple sanding may not get it all out. However, it sounds like finger marks mainly so a light sand should do the trick. be very careful with those parts which are veneered as you do not want to go through the veneer when sanding. Try 120 grit to start with and then finish off with 180 grit. Good luck. Peter
Thank you for the video, May I ask if I can use the same product for my veneer oak MDF panels? it does not specify whether or not it is suitable. I notice on your video, the draw fronts look like some kind of veneer panel . Thanks
Hi Dave, I find that the first coat needs a little over 24 hours but if it is put on and then wiped off with a lint free cloth then it will easily be dry in 24 hours. Peter
Thank you Peter. I would prefer as natural a finish as possible - matt finish. The osmo website suggests first using wood protector in clear then the top oil high solid clear. I only ever see people using the polyx on TH-cam - so confused! 😬
Hi peter, I have recently applied Osmo Raw to my newly laid oak flooring and unfortunately applied too much (found your video after I applied osmo 🙄) the floor now has a white haze to it and white pockets of osmo in the groves how do I remove it? Thank you in advance, Craig.
Hi Craig, I have never tried to remove the amount of Osmo that you describe and suggest that you seek advice from the Osmo dealer in your area. My first thoughts are to scrape or sand it off but there may be a better way if you check with the Osmo person. Peter
The method used by the american company you´ve mentioned was to use something similiar to a scouring pad. As I recall they use it on parquett floors. According to them it supposedly helps to smooth over any woodfibers still standing. After watching that video I decided to use that method aswell. Mainly for convenience. Like you mentioned in your own video it is simply faster to use a pad and throw it away after using it twice or thrice. I´ve been using the pads like these; www.sito.de/img/topfreinigerschwaemme/topfreiniger_5001010_10.jpg They´re cheap as dirt, 12x cost about a 1,30€. I use the sponge first to distribute the oil, then the side with the scotch brite to "rub it in". After that I use normal kitchen paper to swipe off any excess oil. Anyway, great vid again. It´s always interesting to see how professionals apply their finishings :>
Hi Shin Rah, Many thanks. I used to use green Scotchbrite pads but they sometimes left bits of green on the work. These new pads, both 3M and Norton, work brilliantly and you will see a lot more of them. Peter
pcb1962 Surfix is designed for the busy professional who needs to create a good finish, quickly and with little fuss. In its systainer it is a great all in one system. My woodworking habits give me more time and Osmo provides what I need. Now that PolyX Gloss has arrived I see no reason to use anything else for cabinet work. Peter
hi peter, another helpful and informative video,their is another interesting article on the web,you would find interesting if youve not already seen it.its on the woodwork web, working with osmo 1/2 brian
When applying osmo with the pads, the pad needs to be attached to the end of a polisher so that the polisher is moving the pad against the wood and not your hand. This application method ensures the pad acts as intended to maximize benefits.
Did anyone else find Osmo Polyx really smelly as it off gasses? I guess it's the naphtha? I was pretty disappointed with how long my house smelled like a chemical spill.
I do not think that is the case - it is not as bad as you describe. It is far better than any form of linseed oil, french polish or alternatives with high VOC. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop doubt me if you like, it is the internet. But I assure you it was bad. Much worse than linseed or tung oil. It was more like an alkyd paint. Not pleasant at all. I wonder if the Canadian formula differs from Europe?
Hi Kermitt, That really is very odd as I have used it indoors on many occasions. Please contact your supplier or Osmo CA as it should not be such a horrid smell. Many thanks for the clarification and do contact your dealer. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop it is a 2.5l can of Polyx-Oil 3031 clear matte. For wooden floors and furniture. I bought it from a Lumber chain called Windsor Plywood. I'll be calling them.
You all are going backwards who has time to waste on that product is a small refinisher turning out two to three sometimes four pieces a week I use gallons of lacquer and polyurethane Tung oil could not do this if it wasn't for the products I use
Osmo is awful. After hours of wasted time I'm going to have to hide my oak table with a waterproof table cloth. I've read loads and followed loads on this stuff but it's WAY TOO hard to use. So much work with brush, cloth, scourer blah blah just to get a mediocre finish. So draggy and sticky. Takes so long to get the streaks out then it's not great. Please recommend another product. Danish oil is way too dark. I'm going to have to spend hours re-sanding it now and starting it again.
What a thorough and outstanding study of a product...the BEST I've come across by far!!! I shall follow your method!!!...THANK YOU SO MUCH for the master class.
Many thanks for your super feedback. Cheers. Peter
Wow, thank you for the super prompt reply. We have a local Brewers decorators merchant, and they definitely stock Osmo. So will give them a try, as they seem a lot more knowledgeable than the usual DIY sheds. Many thanks again.
Excellent. Good luck. Peter
Thank you for the video, thorough work and helpful results. All the best
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Peter - over the past few days I've been making a couple of bookshelf units that have oak tops. I've now applied 2 coats of OSMO PolyX Gloss to the oak and I must say that the finish has a really gorgeous sheen that shows off the grain beautifully. It was also very easy and quick to apply. Very happy! Darrel
+Darrel Hi Darrel, I have never been disappointed with Osmo on any of my furniture projects. Peter
Another combination that I’ve had very good luck with is to apply it with a pad, buff it into the surface with a pad on a random orbit sander or buffer, wipe off any excess finish if there are visible wet spots then finish buffing with a clean pad. This sounds like a lot of steps but really is quit fast and yields excellent results.
Great tip!
Adore this oil. I always use a rag....just love the finish but most of all the smell. Just reminds me to step back and smile at what I’ve made.
I agree it is excellent. Have you seen my new dining table and benches done with Osmo? th-cam.com/video/YdH6vdu1YDo/w-d-xo.html Peter
Just ordered osmo oil for 10 oak interior doors. Thank you for the video, it’s given me confidence to produce a great finish.
Hi Craig, I use Osmo on almost every project that I make. It is the easiest finish to apply, it gives consistent results and always looks great. Cheers. Peter
Peter. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this video and so very articulately. I absolutely love PolyX and the ideas and recommendations you've made have helped a lot.
Thank you Sir.
Hi Bonnie, Many thanks. Peter
excellent video, using polyx for the first time this weekend and this was very helpful in choosing how to apply
Hallo Peter, thank you for your video again, it was great to look at.
I saw you with these pads from 3M and I want to notice you on a GREAT product calles Micro-Mesh 3 x 4 Soft Touch Pads.
Color-Coded super-fine grit of Micro-Mesh pads will give all your projects an unparalleled glossy finish. Foam-backed ultra fine grit 3" x 4" double-sided pads put a polished sheen on wood. Pads are washable and reusable many times. The ultra large surface area will make quick work of any project. Use moderate to light pressure on dry surfaces.
The pads are from a grit from 1.500 till 12.000.
I hope you want to try them one day.
I wish all the best, Henrie.
Hen Schum Hi Henrie, Good to talk to you again. Thank you very much for the information about the pads - who makes them? Peter
Hello Peter, I follow you everywhere ;-) Next time your in the Netherlands you know where you can drink a cup of tea.
The maker off micro-mesh is micro-surface.com. You can buy it everywhere, even at Axminster :-)
I used the 3" x 4" pads and I love them.
Buy Henrie.
Hen Schum Many thanks. Peter
Hello Peter, reference your lint free paper I use rolls of Plenty (formerly Bounty) which can be bought in most supermarkets. It is purportedly a paper towel but when mopping up spilt liquids it can be wrung out an re-used or even washed and hung out to dry. There are about half a dozen types in the range but I use Plenty Fat Ones as you get about 50% more for your money. Worth a look I'd say. ATB Scott
Use a buffer or your rotex for applying the Osmo after the first coat, I also I do minimum of 4 coats I only sand after first coat and 3rd, after 1st I use pad or 400 grit, after 3rd I use pad or 1000 grit. Using rotox or buffer to apply coats produces amazing results.
Hi Jerod, Many thanks. Peter
I appreciate this video it helps validate my thoughts thank you
I'm so glad!
Like some others here I’m also new to Osmo. Thanks so much for an excellent video comparison!
Thanks for the response Peter. I've just stopped for a coffee after 4 shelves out of 6. A bit disappointed that I'll have to touch up the chimney breast paint as I've caught the wall with the brush :(
Hi Tony, Unfortunately any oil based product will soak into an emulsion finish. You may need to let the Osmo dry and then dilute (equal parts) some PVA with water and paint that over the affected area. Let that dry and then redo that small area with emulsion. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, that's great. Thanks for the advice and all the best for the channel, some great videos on here and they're very well done. Tony
Hi Peter, Really enjoy your reviews on products and this is yet again a very interesting and informative review of Osmo PolyX.
Adrian Core Hi Adrian, Many thanks. It is a great help to receive comments like this. Peter
Great video as always Peter. It would be nice to see a build video series of the new miter saw stand and beside that I would be looking forward to a shop tour as well. In your videos your shop looks so well organized.
Tamás Elkán Hi Tamas, I am in the process of making the video of the mitre saw station. It is at least another 2-3 weeks from completion but is looking good so far. When half of the workshop is a film studio it has to look tidy - you should see it when I am not filming ! Peter
Many thanks Peter, keep up the good work, Mike.
Woodgate425 Cheers Mike. Peter
Not sure which pad he used for the final finish he liked so much, but the 3M 7445 is actually "mildly" abrasive.
Hi Peter. Great video as usual. I don't think I missed you saying but do you cover the back of the wood to stop wood movement?
Hi Graham, It is a good idea where possible. Cheers. Peter
Brilliant thank you 👍
Hi Peter. I have applied Osmo PolyX on to Red Oak and Walnut using one of the reticulated foam 3M pads which you evaluated in your video, and I was delighted at the resultant finish. I noticed that you used Satin finish in our evaluation. Do you prefer this to the Gloss option?
Hi Ray, I now prefer the Osmo 3011 Gloss. It does not give a high gloss finish but a subtle shine that is just a dash above satin. Cheers. Peter
Awesome man, thank you 👍🏼
Hello peter I've been using osmo for about year now after watching your video on this product , I make bookbinding presses / frame ect the finish I get using a Harris Classic Brush for applying the first coat , I then rub off with lint free cloth and I get a smooth deep lustre . I have tried using a cheaper brush but I find the finish is not as good . Thank you for the great videos
Terry De'ath Hi Terry, I think that different situations require different methods of applying finishes such as Osmo. I favour the brush on/wipe off technique but have also seen how the Osmo experts like to do it. I think that any method that delivers the results that satisfy the user must be good. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Peter
Some great tips there, thanks for the video. I'm using osmo top oil for some living room shelving. Brushed on as they are in situ. Lovely finish but the fumes are still present after 6 days. I wonder if I used too much oil.
The fumes are not as bad as some other products. It takes about 14 days for 99% curing and so do not worry. I brush on and then wipe off with a lint free cloth. This way it dries much more quickly and you can then build up 3 or 4 thin coats in 2 days and it is dry completely after 3. Peter
Hello Peter and thank you very much for this video. I am currently working on a kitchen counter and already applied a first coat of Osmo 3045 clear satin yesterday. I applied it with a fine brush and wiped everything off with a cloth. I am only now seeing your video, and wondering if I should apply the second coat with a pad, and maybe even do an intermediate tub with a clean, dry pad. What do you think about this? Thank you again! Emma
Hi Emma, You should not need to do an intermediate rub with a pad unless you have some uneveness to overcome. Just put on a second thin coat and take it from there. Using thin coats does make for a better finish but it may also mean that you need an extra coat. Good luck. Peter
As usual Peter. Great video, helpful and informative. I've watched it several times and went with brushing on and using a pad to very lightly rub down between coats. l did this on a large board of newly planed oak that had been dyed and left to dry for 24 hours. the only trouble was that the Poly-X would not completely dry and even after 3 days in the house it was still tacky?? Have you come across this before? In the end l denibbed the first coat with the pad and tried a second coat which did eventually dry. After another light rub down and some wax polish the fire place fender look great.
Woodgate425 Yes, I have experienced some longer drying times but mainly when it has been cold or I had failed to adequately ventilate during drying. Now technically, being an oil, it will never "dry" as such and will continue to cure for several weeks after application. What I now do if I have some tackiness is to rub it with a lint free cloth and it is then perfect. Despite the Osmo guys saying that I should not do it I too de-nib between coats but mainly because I always get a bit of dust settling due to draughts in the workshop. Peter
Can it be put over a stain? Great video.
Hi Chris, Yes, I have done this but do allow the stain to fully dry first. Peter
Interesting you sanded to 220 as Osmo says do not sand higher than 150 as you burnish the wood and the hard oil wax cannot penetrate grain and becomes cloudy as it sits on top. It’s one of the reasons I stayed away. Seems your fronts look ok though?
There is a risk if you sand below 150 grit and I have now stopped going down to 220. Peter
best way to finish is this.
first coat u polish in with a slow speed machine and white pad.
then top coat with a mohair roller.
i've been doing wood floors for 41 years btw
Hi Steve, I will remember this for when I do a solid wood floor. Many thanks. Peter
Great video! Thank you for your contribution sir.
Hi Dan, Many thanks. Peter
Hi Peter, So how about varnishes? I use a lot of clear satin on veneered oak doors and find that a Jenny brush, foam pad on a wooden dowel (axminster tools), is great for applying and even better for the second coat. But sometimes the finish just isn't smooth enough and they do wear out so they are leaving a contaminant in the finish. I shall be giving the pads a try but it would be nice to see comparison by someone who has tried them with oils.
Regards
Mike
Michael Tricker Hi Mike, I do not use varnishes very often these days but when I used clear satin polyurethane I used to 'kiss' sand with 320 grit between coats. That sanding technique requires a very gentle touch as though you were stroking a nervous cat and only do a handful of strokes with very little pressure. Then vacuum off and wipe with a lint free cloth before applying the next coat. When the final coat has had at least 3 times the recommended time to go off I used to use a green pad (but now I would definitely use a white pad) dipped into hard wax polish to get rid of the final blemishes in the surface and give the most beautiful lustre. When the wax has had a chance to harden buff off with a lint free cloth. Good luck. Peter
Thank you for your advise, I shall make up some test panels and give it a try.
Hi Peter, great review, I have been using Osmo here in Canada for over 5 years, beautiful product to use and a great result for my humidors. I have been using pads for 3 years now and they are great. After using a pad or rags to wipe of access, they should be soaked in water before disposal. Have you ever used it on hardwood flooring. I bought some custom Andiroba and would like to apply Osmo for the finish, I have seen different video of applying with a brush two coats with no wiping....I am a little worried about that, what are your thoughts,
Regards,
Gaetan Delorme of
Delorme Humidors
Hi Gaetan, I have not used it for flooring but have seen the results of the two coat, no wiping method and it does come out quite well. Your best bet is to have a test piece. From my early experience you will have to leave a long time for the first coat to dry well - maybe 48 hours. Good luck. Peter
Thanks for your video and thoroughness! It has been really helpful in using the product for the first time on our new floor. I had a question that I'm sure you'll have an answer for if that's okay?
I've just put down the first coat of osmo tint on a pine floor. It's come up really well and we're waiting for the first coat to dry now, but I was wondering if you thought it was worth rubbing the floor down with the non-abrasive pad before applying either a second coat or the final oil coat I'll be applying? Any advice greatly appreciated. Jono
+Jonathan Stirrup Hi Jono, I would only give a rub in the odd spot if there was a blemish, perhaps a bit of dust or a scratch. I always find that the first coat seems to take a long time to dry yet the subsequent coats dry more quickly. Try not to put too thick a coat on at any stage - I prefer using a number of thinner coats rather than fewer but thicker coats. Peter
Hi, great video, and very informative. I have used Oslo products in the past, and have found them of a very good quality. I am wondering if you know if they do a product or in fact any manufacturer that will seal and oak table from everyday dinner stains etc but will keep the table looking like the bleached oak that I have? Basically no colour, yellowing etc. If you do know of such a product or method I would be extremely grateful. Regards Vegas baby.
v3ga5b4by Hi Vegas, I believe that Osmo have an oil with almost no pigment in it in their Top Oil range designed for kitchen work surfaces. Try a Google search and then seek absolute advice from your Osmo dealer. I think the range includes clear satin, clear matt and natural. Many thanks for the kind words. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I have used the top oil and it does what it says on the tin. There's very little colour change and yet it does enhance the grain structures. I just completed an elm desktop and having watched Peter's video I used ordinary scotchbright because that''s all I had. turned out wonderfully well and far less effort than all that painting and wiping. Where does on purchase the non abrasive version?
Hi Don, Axminster. Peter
Hi Peter, where in the UK are you buying your white pads, can't find a source. Thanks.
lukaselgrande Try www.ribright.co.uk/product/3m-scotch-brite-type-t-non-abrasive-cleaning-pad-white/Peter
Thanks!
Hi Peter, for first coat, did you leave on the excess Osmo to dry or did you wipe off with a cloth/microfiber right after applying? What was the time period you waited before wiping all the slats with the non-abrasive pad after first coat?
I like to apply several thin coats of Osmo rather than brushing on and leaving it. I might use a brush to apply the oil (or a non abrasive pad) but will wipe the excess off with a lint free cloth. Osmo do not recommend sanding between coats but it is useful to use a non abrasive pad to remove any "nibs". This is best done at least 24 hours after the application but 48 hours would be better. Peter
Thank you Peter that clarifies things a lot.
Hi Peter, another useful video, thanks. I was wondering how long lasting you have found the OSMO finishes to be on furniture. After a time, have you felt the need to refresh the finish, e.g. with a wax polish? Cheers, Darrel
+Darrel Hi Darrel, You question comes at an interesting time. In January 2013 I made a set of side tables that we use every day in our sitting room. One is always in the sunlight the others only get the sun for short periods each day. None of the tables need any refinishing but the one that is in the sun all the time will probably need a simple "wipe-on" coat at the end of this year. It will take about 2 minutes to do and requires no sanding at all - that is the beauty of Osmo - it can be touched up so easily. All of my other furniture items are fine. Peter
+New Brit Workshop (Peter) Thanks for that Peter - that's good to know.
Hello Peter. Thank you for the instructional video. Very helpful. Two questions: (1) would Osmo PolyX oil work as a finish on a walnut and ash chess board (with a 0.5" paduak inlay between the board and the frame) that I made? and (2) if so, then may I do the bottom of the chess board, wait for it to dry then flip it over and do the top, or should I try to do the bottom, top and edges all at the same time wait for it to dry then apply further coats?
Hi Abbas, Yes, Osmo will work well on your chess board. It would be a good idea to do the bottom and the edges first and have it on some small blocks face down to do that. After applying the Osmo use a rag to wipe off the bottom of the edges in case of any build up that may go onto the top (which is now underneath). When that is dry, do the top and the edges again with the blocks underneath the bottom. Again wipe off any excess at the bottom of the sides. This way the interface between the two sessions of applying Osmo will be indistinguishable. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Peter...thank you very much for your advice. I will send you a picture of the chess board once I have completed applying the finish. Thanks again. Abbas
Hi could I just say, love and appreciate all your videos, thank you for all your efforts. I have some Osmo Polyx 3032 oil left over from oiling my oak flooring. I have sanded back my Iroko kitchen worktop to bear wood, do you think this oil would be appropriate to use? Many thanks Mike.
Hi Mike, It should be fine. The only thing is that I know that Osmo Top Oil is food safe - you might want to check this for PolyX. Peter
hi peteh
recently had my oak floor oiled and i THINK they used osmo.
however....im not entirely happy with the finish as it looks like it isn't properly sealed (i was expecting the appearence of a laminate floor). it looks a bit grubby and flat
after a couple of weeks i gave it a clean and polish with bona products as recommended by flooring company.
it's not much better
do you think i could give it a quick once over with a coat of satin/gloss osmo oil straight over the bona polish or should i key it with scourer first and then apply top coat with scourer too.
thanks for your help
+Chris Roach Hi Chris, It all hinges on what was actually applied in the first place. If a floor has had two coats of Osmo PolyX then it should not look flat as you put it. There is a chance that the company that did the job did not prepare everything well and maybe there were residues of some other (non Osmo) finish left behind. If the company that did the work are unable to offer the service that appears to be required (ie finish the job off to your satisfaction) then you need to chase them. If you are now on your own then the best thing to do is to try a test area somewhere out of the way and lightly sand with 120 or 150 grit to provide a key and then try a thin coat of Osmo PolyX. If that improves things then do the rest and be prepared to put a second coat on. There is a risk that whatever was put on before might need to be removed altogether - only you can make that judgement. Peter
Thanks peter
They wont come back but will probably tell me what product they usef. Will the bona polish be a problem?
Could I get back in touch with you when I find out what thay used please?
Thanks again and best regards
Chris
+Chris Roach Hi Chris, I do not know what bona polish is - it is not something that I have ever used. Please do not hesitate to come back to me when you have more information. Good luck. Peter
+New Brit Workshop (Peter) its a water borne floor cleaner and polish. available at homebase, b&q etc... lots of people recommend it.
my concern is that i've put a water based product on an oil finished floor (which bona recommend) but now i may need to put oil back on to the bona polish.
when i find out more i'll be in touch.
and thanks again for your time. speak soon.
Hi Peter,
Thank you for yet another great video.
Have you tried or do you think it is possible to apply OSMO using the white Festool vlies on a random orbit sander?
Hi Jack, You could but using the white, non abrasive, pads by hand works just as well. Peter
I used white Manuel pads on a couple of metres of benchtop and it turned out very well...but looking at the remaining 14 metres, I doubted I had the time or the arm strength to do it. Festool Vlies white pads on an ETS 150/5 on slowest speed was easy and the finish is even better than the manual approach...you can even use a clean pad after the final coat to polish/burnish it. I used a small piece of manual pad to wipe down the surface along the grain after about 5 minutes. The only downside is that the stickiness of the oil tends to wreck the Vlies... one coat on about 8m of 600mm benchtop was about the limit for a single pad.
Thank you, you've really helped me to decide how to begin! Could i ask, ive sanded an old oak church pew. what grit do you think i should finish with before going with the oil? Many thanks, kat
Hi Kat, I would stop at 150 grit but 180 grit will do if that is all you have. If you go any finer then the oil tends not to soak in so well. Allow plenty of time for the first coat. Subsequent coats dry much more quickly. Peter
I have noticed by applying osmo oil stain it gives a lot of uneven staining using oil. I have used sand sealer but it makes staining using oil pointless as too light even after multiple applications. Have you got an idea how to avoid uneven stain on plywood but at the same time avoid multiple application of osmo oil wood stain? thank you
Hi Artur, I would not use any sanding sealer as the Osmo is far better when it is allowed to soak into the wood. You will get uneven results if you apply more in one area than another. Try applying a very even coat with a brush and then removing the excess with a lint free cloth. Alternatively apply the Osmo using a (white) non abrasive pad. Remember that any oil will bring out the natural colours of the wood and plywood can vary in colour particularly after the application of oil. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Dear Peter, thank you for your reply. I agree it works ok without sanding sealer with osmo polyx oil but not with osmo polyx stain oil as you get bloches on the wood.
Hi Peter, Good morning, i have a question please here. what grit sand paper would you use for preparing the surface? i guess i over did it. i used 220 and that gave me cloudy surface, i believe that i smooth it too much and oil couldnt penetrate. your guidance is much appreciated Sir. thanks
Hi Mian, It is best to go no further than 150 grit although I use 180 grit as I have no 150 grit left. If you use too fine a grit then the oil will not bond to the surface. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop thanks
Brilliant Video Peter! Have you Tried a Padco Snappy Applicator? they are not strictly made for solvent based products like The Osmo Polyx, but they work great, they put varnishes and oils on very nicely. I would recommend atleast giving them a go!
Subbed and Liked!
Ben
+Wood Finishes Direct Hi Ben, I have not tried them or even seen them in the shops. Peter
Hi peter,
Another interesting video, would an intermediate rub with a pad (or even a festool vlies) be a good method for blending in a spot repair?
Andrew
Hi Andrew, Yes it would work perfectly. The Festool Vlies are excellent. Peter
Can osmo polyx applied to interior pinewood doors and how many coat of applications is needed, and do we have to sand between coats of application please advice thank you 👍🏽
Hi Rakjkd, Yes, you can use PolyX on interior pine doors. Before you start sand down to 150 or 180 grit making sure that you remove any previous finish. Vacuum off the dust and apply two coats of PolyX. I prefer to apply the oil by brush or with a white non abrasive pad and then rub off the excess with a lint free cloth. You do not need to sand between coats unless you see an imperfection. The first coat takes a lot longer to dry than the second. Peter
Thank you very much sir that is very informative advice.
Hi Peter
Where do you get your pads. The places I have tried are out of stock. WKR Mike
Hi Michael, There are loads of places but I am not sure which would suit you best. So, put "non abrasive pads" into Google and look for the white ones. Peter
I'm working on a test piece of pine. First very thin coat of Osmo
hardened nicely. Second took over a week. Third is still gummy/sticky
after two weeks. Help? Eventually for a pine kitchen countertop.
Hi Linda, That sounds very odd. With me, the first coat takes longer than the stated 24 hours to dry and so I leave it for a couple of days. The subsequent coats dry very quickly. Perhaps you are applying it too generously? Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I left the first coat dry for a week; second coat more than a week.
Hi Linda, It is difficult to judge what might have been going on....Did you stir it well? Could you have applied it a little too generously? Have fine did you sand the piece, what grit did you use? Peter
Hi Peter - from where did you source the non-abrasive pads please?
Hi Binks, Try Axminster - www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-webrax-hand-pad-ax23609 If the link does not work go to the Axminster web site and search for "Non abrasive" Peter
Ever tried to use the Festool suffix system but with Osmo products? Basically I mean to change out the original oils with say Osmo top oil 3058 CLEAR, MATT and/or polyX 3062 CLEAR, MATT but using the festool pads/method/system ect.
Hi Bo, No I have not tried that. I am quite happy with the method that I show in the video but then everything can be improved. The Surfix system is designed as a complete system in a box for busy contractors who want a quick and simple approach to finishing on site. For me Osmo ticks every box and is, for me, the best indoor oil around. Peter
I have the surfix myself. Its fine, but Im looking for a more MAT finish.I will try the two Osmo products mentionen very soon myself. Thank you for great great videos in general. Could you consider doing a video on how to produce your own (festool)dominos in custom woodtypes for exposed dominos in furniture (in a dovetail kind of way, make sense?)
I know what you mean and it is in the book of jobs to do. Peter
Dear Peter, right at this moment i am choosing the right surface finish for a workbench, made from beech. Could you help me regard this Osmo products, this PolyX 3011 Clear Glossy oil would be good for the workbench? I didn't think it will be more slippery than with the linseed oil. The another alternative is the varnishing, with 1k or 2k depend what i choose.
I like much better the varnished surface than the oil finished, but please help me with an advise what do you recommend as surface finishing. Oil or varnish? Thank you.
Hi Zoltan, I replied earlier but it has disappeared ! Yes, Osmo 3011 will be great as would 3032. Good luck with the new bench. Peter
New Brit Workshop thank you Dear Peter, i was sure something goes wrong, because you always replay within few hours! Thank you again😍
Hi, I was wondering if you could help with this, I am about to use Osmo Oil Raw to treat some soap treated beech wood chairs that are effectively unfinished as they cannot be re-soaped (because of the method used to soap them originally). The manufacturer has been a bit hazy on how to treat them, but if they stay untreated they will mark over time (they have already taken on a bit of discolouration from being touched when pulled out and some darkening on the seat from contact with clothes), my question is how would you recommend I remove these marks before treating with the Osmo Raw? Should I use sand paper? The seat is not solid beech wood but ply with a beech veneer, the rest of the chair is solid beech. I'm quite nervous about getting it wrong as the manufacturer is not giving endorsed advise, so I'm on my own with it. Any advice would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Natasha
Hi Natasha, Some stains can go quite deep and a simple sanding may not get it all out. However, it sounds like finger marks mainly so a light sand should do the trick. be very careful with those parts which are veneered as you do not want to go through the veneer when sanding. Try 120 grit to start with and then finish off with 180 grit. Good luck. Peter
Thank you for the video, May I ask if I can use the same product for my veneer oak MDF panels? it does not specify whether or not it is suitable. I notice on your video, the draw fronts look like some kind of veneer panel . Thanks
Yes, I use a lot of veneered MDF and always use Osmo on it. Take a look at my Pedestal Desk project. Peter
Thanks Peter
How long between first and second coat.
Hi Dave, I find that the first coat needs a little over 24 hours but if it is put on and then wiped off with a lint free cloth then it will easily be dry in 24 hours. Peter
What would you use on a large pine kitchen table - polyx or top oil high solid
Both would be fine. The 3011 polyx will give a slightly more glossy finish. Peter
Thank you Peter. I would prefer as natural a finish as possible - matt finish. The osmo website suggests first using wood protector in clear then the top oil high solid clear. I only ever see people using the polyx on TH-cam - so confused! 😬
The top oil is great and will be perfect for you. I am not sure what the wood protector will do - I have never used it. Good luck. Peter
New Brit Workshop thank you 👍
Hi peter, I have recently applied Osmo Raw to my newly laid oak flooring and unfortunately applied too much (found your video after I applied osmo 🙄) the floor now has a white haze to it and white pockets of osmo in the groves how do I remove it?
Thank you in advance,
Craig.
Hi Craig, I have never tried to remove the amount of Osmo that you describe and suggest that you seek advice from the Osmo dealer in your area. My first thoughts are to scrape or sand it off but there may be a better way if you check with the Osmo person. Peter
New Brit Workshop thank you peter
The method used by the american company you´ve mentioned was to use something similiar to a scouring pad. As I recall they use it on parquett floors. According to them it supposedly helps to smooth over any woodfibers still standing.
After watching that video I decided to use that method aswell. Mainly for convenience. Like you mentioned in your own video it is simply faster to use a pad and throw it away after using it twice or thrice.
I´ve been using the pads like these; www.sito.de/img/topfreinigerschwaemme/topfreiniger_5001010_10.jpg
They´re cheap as dirt, 12x cost about a 1,30€. I use the sponge first to distribute the oil, then the side with the scotch brite to "rub it in". After that I use normal kitchen paper to swipe off any excess oil.
Anyway, great vid again. It´s always interesting to see how professionals apply their finishings :>
Hi Shin Rah, Many thanks. I used to use green Scotchbrite pads but they sometimes left bits of green on the work. These new pads, both 3M and Norton, work brilliantly and you will see a lot more of them. Peter
have you tried using the festool viles discs to polish?
Hi Chris, Yes, they are really good. Peter
What finish is better matte or gloss
It is a matter of taste. For pine I would use ordinary PolyX. Peter
Have you given up on the Surfix system?
pcb1962 Surfix is designed for the busy professional who needs to create a good finish, quickly and with little fuss. In its systainer it is a great all in one system. My woodworking habits give me more time and Osmo provides what I need. Now that PolyX Gloss has arrived I see no reason to use anything else for cabinet work. Peter
Peter Parfitt Thanks Peter, I was going to buy Surfix for an upcoming furniture project but I think I'll go with PolyX instead.
so, which way was best?
Hi Garviel, Difficult to say but speed may be the dominating factor which makes thin coats with a rag better than a brush. Peter
hi peter, another helpful and informative video,their is another interesting article on the web,you would find interesting if youve not already seen it.its on the woodwork web, working with osmo 1/2 brian
Brian Rayfield Many thanks Brian. Peter
Hi Peter, Did you test the Osmo Wood Wax? How do you compare it with the Polyx? Which one do you prefer for interior doors? Thanks
Paulo Brigida Hi Paulo, No, I have not tried the Wood Wax. I did test Osmo Door Oil and that looks like an excellent product for internal doors. Peter
Anyone have a link to those pads?
Just put "white non abrasive pads" into Google and you will see loads of options. Peter
When applying osmo with the pads, the pad needs to be attached to the end of a polisher so that the polisher is moving the pad against the wood and not your hand. This application method ensures the pad acts as intended to maximize benefits.
Did anyone else find Osmo Polyx really smelly as it off gasses? I guess it's the naphtha? I was pretty disappointed with how long my house smelled like a chemical spill.
I do not think that is the case - it is not as bad as you describe. It is far better than any form of linseed oil, french polish or alternatives with high VOC.
Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop doubt me if you like, it is the internet. But I assure you it was bad. Much worse than linseed or tung oil. It was more like an alkyd paint. Not pleasant at all. I wonder if the Canadian formula differs from Europe?
Hi Kermitt, That really is very odd as I have used it indoors on many occasions. Please contact your supplier or Osmo CA as it should not be such a horrid smell. Many thanks for the clarification and do contact your dealer. Cheers. Peter
Just had a thought - which Osmo product was it and what is the product number? Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop it is a 2.5l can of Polyx-Oil 3031 clear matte. For wooden floors and furniture. I bought it from a Lumber chain called Windsor Plywood. I'll be calling them.
You all are going backwards who has time to waste on that product is a small refinisher turning out two to three sometimes four pieces a week I use gallons of lacquer and polyurethane Tung oil could not do this if it wasn't for the products I use
Osmo is awful. After hours of wasted time I'm going to have to hide my oak table with a waterproof table cloth. I've read loads and followed loads on this stuff but it's WAY TOO hard to use. So much work with brush, cloth, scourer blah blah just to get a mediocre finish. So draggy and sticky. Takes so long to get the streaks out then it's not great.
Please recommend another product. Danish oil is way too dark. I'm going to have to spend hours re-sanding it now and starting it again.
You have too much time on your hands