Mike, first of all, thank you so much for making and posting this video. You saved me the labor cost, and I learned a new skill. Retired mechanic here, so I really appreciate you sharing the repair procedure. Got her done today, and back in business. Also, just wanted to let you know that in your video where you are showing the first rivet to hit with a punch, I'm pretty sure you are showing the wrong rivet. It took me a few minutes to figure this out. The one you are going for is just a pivot point on the track, and not necessary for removal of the regulator. I removed the two rivets located on the window track, and the three in the door, and the regulator came out with no problem. Thought I would post this for everyone else just in case you might be scratching your head like I was trying to figure this out. :-) Once again, thanks for posting. I'm a new fan.
Allan Tinoco A1 Auto Parts My passenger/front window has a clicking/slipping movement that just started. Motor still works. I can lift it (with another person helping) into place and it holds. Is this an indicator that the whole regulator needs to be replaced?
David, mine started off like that until the point it broke off track. You should check to see if something is blocking the path of the window as in the rubber that surrounds it. The video provided by A1 auto is pretty much on point you just need to make sure you start as early as possible cause it does take some time. Good luck.
David, also, if the motor still works A1 auto just sells the bracket without the motor bit I just decided to buy the whole thing even though the motor on mine was still good.
The regulators went bad in both of the front doors of my '96 Explorer and the mechanic told me it would be around $600 to replace and install new regulators ($211 each...$85/hr labor). I bought t wo used regulator ($40 each) and was able to replace them by watching this video. Thanks, the instructions were excellent!!
Retired shop / technology teacher 35 years, NIASE cert, USAF Electronics. Great Job. Your video was clear and concise. Loved the time lapse parts edited in. Mention eye protection is always a good thing. I used an old bath towel to capture the scrap drillings where they fall. Housekeeping of the metal shards is a given . And I did a good vac job of the inside of the door after the old assembly was out because the metal shards captured inside the door could fall out the drain holes. ☼
Excellent video. I have a regulator that has decided to tear apart. It's obstructed my ability to roll window up. I saw all the rivets and I don't own the tools to do the work of removal, but your video was exactly what I expect.
Thank you for sharing this video. Because of your precise instructions I was able to change both the driver and passenger window mechanism on my Ford Explorer 1991.
Your video was a big help. Have a 95 Ford Explorer that a couple of the windows were slipping, had to help them up and down. Found out that the gear plugs were shot in the regulator. After watching your video, it made the job so much easier. Thanks a lot!
Thanks a ton, 1A Auto. Saved half on your power window regulator and motor, watched your installation video and in about an hour my window was fixed. Thanks again.
1992 Explorer 4WD 4DR - Eddie Bauer. The video helped out a lot. The 1A Auto front driver's regulator & motor was a perfect fit. Had some problems with the two rivets below the window but eventually drilled them out just fine. One "totally unexpected" problem I found was the south vertical rail to hold & guide the window when it goes down in the door... broke off and was laying at the bottom of the door cavity. I found it when I was cleaning out the rivet & drill tailings. IMO, this was causing premature wear on the regulator & motor as the south side of the window was unstable in its downward position. For the last year I have been hearing the window rattle when I shut the door with the window down. After spending 2 hours figuring out how it was supposed to be attached (two small rivets broke off the rail), then drilling holes & putting screws in the vertical guide to secure it to a bracket... everything else went as the video showed. So a relatively easy 30-45 minute job took me 3+ hours... BUT man does the window work great... smooth & quiet! Thanks!!
Thanks for the tutorial! I got the basic concept on my 2000 Ford Windstar. Got some plastic washers, nuts and bolts, and thats it! Worked like a charm.
Excellent video, job took less than 2h. I could do it again in 45 min. Part works perfectly, very pleased. Someone else in the comments offered an important detail. You need to buy bolts and lock nuts, they are not supplied. I think it's 5 total but buy extra. I was able to get a box of M6 stainless steel bolts and matching lock nuts on Amazon. M6 happened to fit a 10mm socket making this uniform and easy. I added a dab of lock tite to the Ford OEM nuts that you DO reuse just to be certain nothing wiggles out. This company rocks.
Disregard my below comment I watched the vid for a second time and saw where I can move the regulator by punching and drilling out the rivets on the outside of the door. My Bad guys sorry about that but in my defense I am clueless with doing these things. But now am learning and again the vid was helpful so thanks again for taking the time and showing the how 2's!
Good video, however do not use a carpenters hammer use a ball pen for hitting center punches and drift punches, otherwise do this step by step and it works...I fixed my 1995 Ford Explorer by using this video. One more thing the motor and or regulator dose not come with hardware you will need 6 EA M6 bolts and nuts....
@creepulkins Thanks for checking us out. We carry those regulators for Explorers for not to much more than what you had paid, ours are brand new with a 2 year warranty also. Available at 1aauto.com
Thank you SO much for video. My 93 Explorer Sport windows are getting sluggish. I greased up all joints that I could and its working better, but the regulator needs to be replaced in both doors. Seeing this video makes doing the repair not so daunting. OH and that water shield looks a whole lot better than the ripped plastic sheet thats in my doors.
Love your videos! I always check them out before attempting something new. Just little advise, sometimes it's kinda hard to hear Mike when he's working. Keep up the great work, and thanks for helping us " DO IT YOURSELFERS" !
You may want to check the wire harness between the drivers side door and body of your Ford Explorer for a possible broken or frayed wire. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@creepulkins You would have find some bolts to connect the regulator to the door with. If it fails on you we carry brand new ones on our website 1aauto.com. Complete with a warranty and free shipping.
@notar1 Usually itmoves slow when the car is not on and normal when the car is running. Never heard of rain coming in to the equation. If it works at the correct speed some times then it should not need to be lubricated.
@Polarcupcheck Could be the motor or the switch. I don't recommend "bypassing" things Could short something and do more damage. I'd take the switch out and use a test light to see if it is OK.
@TheShadowShow00 If the locks are not working either,check the wire harness that goes between the door and the body of the truck for frayed or broken wires. This happens quite often on numerous vehicles, and is a good starting point before diving in to far.
Big fan of the videos and a huge life saver! My window is not going up or down but the regulator is working fine. I took the door panel off and everything and when I use the window button the regulator moves up and down. The 2 metal clips that attach to the window are not attached to the window anymore. The same clips you put the new bolt in 7:38 - 7:43 of the video. is that silicon just holding the clips to the window? any recommendations on how to reconnect those clips to the window? Thank You
Usually on windows they use a special adhesive or glue to attach the window to the bracket. If you go to the dealer them may be able to get the adhesive for you. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
For the plastic shield I use a moldable sticky gum.. Comes in a strip, cut off as much as needed, removed wax paper covering and shape to desired size.. Instantly bonds and can be removed if need be, stays pliable..
The vehicle we have the window is basically just floating, I can push the window up or down with my hands. The motor inside is working, I can even see the part inside going up and down, it's just not raising or lowering the window.
I gotta change the regular on my 99 at some point. Thanks for this video, it’ll help. I was wondering does window switch panel unplug from the harness? The cover separated from the switch panel and I could see someone glued it together before
I'd like to know which wires need repair to allow my window to work with the driver door open. It works fine when closed but will not work when open. I've had it 5 years and it's always been that way.
I was ready to tear my regulator from this same Explorer.. My window rolled up crooked. I thought it was the motor, turned out the only thing wrong with it was the window just separated from the inside window clamp. 6.50 cents later i fixed. Always start with the small things first. Rolls up like a champ.
hi long since acquiring parts come with you are honest and have good parts, just one question for this video as I could say that the screws are to buy thanks
It shouldn't be to hard. There should be three screws that hold it in place. We carry new window motors for your Ford Explorer with free shipping in the lower 48 states, on our website 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I'm finding this video to be very helpful, I just bought a new regulator for my truck. My question(s) to be clear, what size nuts and bolts do you use to replace all of the rivers. Another question I have is what would be a good glue, or epoxy to attack the holders for the window itself. The ones that attack to the regulator arm??
+Shawn Saaler Thank you for checking us out. The size bolts and nuts are dependent on the size drill used to remove the rivets. The glue or epoxy is a personal preference, but 3M has some really good products. 1aauto.com
This video is fantastic and it helped me and a buddy replace the regulator in a 96 Explorer. The problem I keep having is that the glass will not stay in the channels. I've used 2 different types of Loctite and an epoxy, and pinched the channels. Eventually, the window pops out of one or both of the channels. Any suggestions?
+Scott Munn We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Mitchell Woodham Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Ford/Explorer/1AWRK00467?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&UfSotzIiA
I need to do this repair (passenger door, '96). The only problem is that my motor is shot (which is why I'm doing the repair), so I can't move the regulator up/down to position the nuts/rivets in the holes/cutouts for easiest removal - the window is all the way down. I'm concerned especially about punching out that first rivet you did (on the bottom track); I can't see it or get to it... is it necessary to break the regulator there to get it out? I've seen a few other videos where they don't break it.
Replaced motor and regulator on 96 Explorer but now window jumps track just before it reaches the top when I roll it up. Took apart passenger side to compare. I can't figure it out.
Hey y’all! I have a 95 explorer with a missing rear driver side window. Do y’all have a video on how to replace the glass or could you offer some guidance? Thanks!
Thanks a lot for these videos. But the problem with my window is that the two pieces that are attach to the window came off the window, and the track came off the regulator. any suggestions for the fix. If u understand what Im asking.
is there any way you can make a video showing how to replace a window motor on a 1994 ford explorer sport thats a two door one please and thank you if you do
what if you're replacing the regulator with a used window regulator.. The used one doesn't have the brace that connects to the window. what kind of bolts will you need to reconnect the bolts you knocked out to free the regulator from the window?
my dad and i have a 1993 ford explorer and the window motor doesn't work at all and is rolled up. with this being a problem how would you suggest going and getting the regulator out without the window falling and breaking?
I was having issues with my window not going up. I took the entire door apart, drilling out rivets. By the time I drilled the rivets I thought I should have checked the fuses first. Turned out it was a 2 dollar fuse. On the inside fuse panel its number 10 for the door actuator. Check and replace that before tearing the panel off. I feel pretty dumb but im happy i fixed my window in time for the fall cool off.
+Rubber Johnny ahh, that's a bummer! But we're glad you were able to get the repair done! Enjoy the fall weather :) For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Ford/Explorer/1AWRK00467?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Great info! Sorry to hear about the trouble you went through. Btw, did you have trouble with all your windows or just one? I'm trying to beat the Fall rain too. My front passenger window is all the way down and is not going up. All the other 3 windows are working fine. There's not one mention of power windows in the fuse box diagram. I know the GEM module affects the windows and there seem to be 5 fuses (#10, 20, 25, 27, 28) on the interior fuse box with the GEM description (found descriptions online) on it. So far the fuses looks good. I'm still hoping it's just a fuse. The window is all the way down and drilling the part of the regulator that attaches to the upper window track/support is impossible. Btw, what size bolts (1/4 diameter hex?, length?) and nuts did you use to reinstall your regulator? Shoot, it's gonna rain tonight!
Well my girlfriend did a dumb move and rolled down the window. Now i will have to replace the motor and regulator. Quick question. Does the regulator come with the nuts and bolts or is that separate?
I have a 99 windstar. the window is stuck all the way up. It is the motor that needs replacing. Do i have to take out the whole regulator to replace the motor? I am new to this. Your advice is appreciated. If so, how do I get the window down to detach it from the window?
I have a 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.06L 2D Coupe. Is it possible to get the power window motor and regulator out without destroying them to clean and add lubrication ? Thanx in advance
The first part drilled out, you start with "small" then 3/16 then 1/8. Did you mean 1/4 or was it 1/16 then 1/8? 1/4 looks rather large for that fitting.
Window on my explorer won't roll back up. It makes no noise. At one point it rolled down more but wouldn't rebound. It is basically the switch, right? If so, can I bypass the switch just to get it up?
Do you think it is my regulator that needs replacing? My front driver’s window is stuck all the way in the down position. When I hold the switch in either direction, I hear a little squeak-ish electric noise. I’ve tried lubricating with white lithium lubricant and no luck (that’s what auto shop did to fix it last time ~1 year ago). Won’t budge when I use force to push the window up. Do you think it’s worth opening things up to check for any broken/damaged wires before replacing the regulator? Really don’t want to fork out the ridiculous 300 or so bucks for this after I paid 200 last time and it’s already broken again. Thanks for your help in the video, and in advance if you reply here!!!
I also just noticed the regulator you sell doesn’t include the motor, I guess I’d have to make sure it’s not the motor that’s shot? Although I saw one of your comments saying if it’s the motor then I’d be able to push the window up... I don’t know.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Mike, first of all, thank you so much for making and posting this video. You saved me the labor cost, and I learned a new skill. Retired mechanic here, so I really appreciate you sharing the repair procedure. Got her done today, and back in business. Also, just wanted to let you know that in your video where you are showing the first rivet to hit with a punch, I'm pretty sure you are showing the wrong rivet. It took me a few minutes to figure this out. The one you are going for is just a pivot point on the track, and not necessary for removal of the regulator. I removed the two rivets located on the window track, and the three in the door, and the regulator came out with no problem. Thought I would post this for everyone else just in case you might be scratching your head like I was trying to figure this out. :-) Once again, thanks for posting. I'm a new fan.
+Thomas Swope Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
You guys rock! My window has been broken for years so I decided to give this a shot after watching the video and now I have a working window. Thanks!
Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Allan Tinoco A1 Auto Parts My passenger/front window has a clicking/slipping movement that just started. Motor still works. I can lift it (with another person helping) into place and it holds. Is this an indicator that the whole regulator needs to be replaced?
David, mine started off like that until the point it broke off track. You should check to see if something is blocking the path of the window as in the rubber that surrounds it. The video provided by A1 auto is pretty much on point you just need to make sure you start as early as possible cause it does take some time. Good luck.
David, also, if the motor still works A1 auto just sells the bracket without the motor bit I just decided to buy the whole thing even though the motor on mine was still good.
Do you only replace the front left or do you have to do it to every window to fix them too?
The regulators went bad in both of the front doors of my '96 Explorer and the mechanic told me it would be around $600 to replace and install new regulators ($211 each...$85/hr labor). I bought t wo used regulator ($40 each) and was able to replace them by watching this video. Thanks, the instructions were excellent!!
Retired shop / technology teacher 35 years, NIASE cert, USAF Electronics.
Great Job. Your video was clear and concise. Loved the time lapse parts edited in. Mention eye protection is always a good thing. I used an old bath towel to capture the scrap drillings where they fall. Housekeeping of the metal shards is a given . And I did a good vac job of the inside of the door after the old assembly was out because the metal shards captured inside the door could fall out the drain holes. ☼
@abm89 M6 by 2cm with a 10mm head for holding the reg to the door. You nee longer 3cm or 4cm for securing the regulator to the window.
Excellent video. I have a regulator that has decided to tear apart. It's obstructed my ability to roll window up. I saw all the rivets and I don't own the tools to do the work of removal, but your video was exactly what I expect.
Always saving my life !
Thanks a lot guys
Hello from México ! ! !
Thank you for sharing this video. Because of your precise instructions I was able to change both the driver and passenger window mechanism on my Ford Explorer 1991.
Your video was a big help. Have a 95 Ford Explorer that a couple of the windows were slipping, had to help them up and down. Found out that the gear plugs were shot in the regulator. After watching your video, it made the job so much easier. Thanks a lot!
so you were able to fix the problem just by cleaning the plugs or splicing in new plugs?
Thanks a ton, 1A Auto. Saved half on your power window regulator and motor, watched your installation video and in about an hour my window was fixed. Thanks again.
1992 Explorer 4WD 4DR - Eddie Bauer. The video helped out a lot. The 1A Auto front driver's regulator & motor was a perfect fit. Had some problems with the two rivets below the window but eventually drilled them out just fine. One "totally unexpected" problem I found was the south vertical rail to hold & guide the window when it goes down in the door... broke off and was laying at the bottom of the door cavity. I found it when I was cleaning out the rivet & drill tailings. IMO, this was causing premature wear on the regulator & motor as the south side of the window was unstable in its downward position. For the last year I have been hearing the window rattle when I shut the door with the window down. After spending 2 hours figuring out how it was supposed to be attached (two small rivets broke off the rail), then drilling holes & putting screws in the vertical guide to secure it to a bracket... everything else went as the video showed. So a relatively easy 30-45 minute job took me 3+ hours... BUT man does the window work great... smooth & quiet! Thanks!!
Love your guys videos use them all the time
Thanks for checking us out. Have a great day.
Thanks for the tutorial! I got the basic concept on my 2000 Ford Windstar. Got some plastic washers, nuts and bolts, and thats it! Worked like a charm.
I've used 1aAuto before to buy products; they're great. True customer I love their customer service - very chilled I like that.
Great video I spent an hour trying to figure out how I was gonna remove the top rivets
Excellent video, job took less than 2h. I could do it again in 45 min.
Part works perfectly, very pleased. Someone else in the comments offered an important detail. You need to buy bolts and lock nuts, they are not supplied. I think it's 5 total but buy extra. I was able to get a box of M6 stainless steel bolts and matching lock nuts on Amazon. M6 happened to fit a 10mm socket making this uniform and easy. I added a dab of lock tite to the Ford OEM nuts that you DO reuse just to be certain nothing wiggles out. This company rocks.
@wow700 If your window regulator has broke, then yes this is the procedure on how to fix it. We sell them on our website 1aauto.com
Disregard my below comment I watched the vid for a second time and saw where I can move the regulator by punching and drilling out the rivets on the outside of the door. My Bad guys sorry about that but in my defense I am clueless with doing these things. But now am learning and again the vid was helpful so thanks again for taking the time and showing the how 2's!
Good video, however do not use a carpenters hammer use a ball pen for hitting center punches and drift punches, otherwise do this step by step and it works...I fixed my 1995 Ford Explorer by using this video. One more thing the motor and or regulator dose not come with hardware you will need 6 EA M6 bolts and nuts....
Omg I'm going to cry, I fixed it..
yo 90’s explorer gang
I'm going to attempt to do this next month.Thanks for all the helpful videos.
+Oz M. Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out! 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@creepulkins Thanks for checking us out. We carry those regulators for Explorers for not to much more than what you had paid, ours are brand new with a 2 year warranty also. Available at 1aauto.com
Thank you SO much for video. My 93 Explorer Sport windows are getting sluggish. I greased up all joints that I could and its working better, but the regulator needs to be replaced in both doors. Seeing this video makes doing the repair not so daunting. OH and that water shield looks a whole lot better than the ripped plastic sheet thats in my doors.
100 videos and this is what i was looking for, good one thanks
+Manuel De Jesús We're glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Love your videos! I always check them out before attempting something new. Just little advise, sometimes it's kinda hard to hear Mike when he's working. Keep up the great work, and thanks for helping us " DO IT YOURSELFERS" !
Great video, thanks. Darlington, South Carolina
You may want to check the wire harness between the drivers side door and body of your Ford Explorer for a possible broken or frayed wire. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@creepulkins You would have find some bolts to connect the regulator to the door with. If it fails on you we carry brand new ones on our website 1aauto.com. Complete with a warranty and free shipping.
@notar1 Usually itmoves slow when the car is not on and normal when the car is running. Never heard of rain coming in to the equation. If it works at the correct speed some times then it should not need to be lubricated.
@Polarcupcheck Could be the motor or the switch. I don't recommend "bypassing" things Could short something and do more damage. I'd take the switch out and use a test light to see if it is OK.
@Polarcupcheck Can you grab hold of it and help it up? If so then it is the motor that is bad.
We'll keep this request in mind if we need to make this repair in the future.
@TheShadowShow00 If the locks are not working either,check the wire harness that goes between the door and the body of the truck for frayed or broken wires. This happens quite often on numerous vehicles, and is a good starting point before diving in to far.
Great Info ! Now I need to do both of mine. Thanks
They're usually called sash connectors. You could try your local dealer. They may carry some new ones for you.
I just want to say that you guys are awesome, and thank you! :)
It could be something to do with the either the body control module or there could a ground wire fault some place.
You can use rivets or you can just buy some small bolts from the hardware store that fit it.
@deeznutz713 Yes, Replace the regulator and motor we sell them on our site as an assembly
It's always nice when you make money on these repairs...lol
Everything worked like a charm. Thanks so much.
+Ed Mundy Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
window rolls up down slow but when it rains moves a normal speed.. Does it need to be oiled ? 99 ford explorer
Do you have a video showing how to replace the rear/back window motor on a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac ? The power window in the center back
It could be either the regulator or it could be an issue with a wire inside the door.
Big fan of the videos and a huge life saver! My window is not going up or down but the regulator is working fine. I took the door panel off and everything and when I use the window button the regulator moves up and down. The 2 metal clips that attach to the window are not attached to the window anymore. The same clips you put the new bolt in 7:38 - 7:43 of the video. is that silicon just holding the clips to the window? any recommendations on how to reconnect those clips to the window? Thank You
Usually on windows they use a special adhesive or glue to attach the window to the bracket. If you go to the dealer them may be able to get the adhesive for you. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
For the plastic shield I use a moldable sticky gum..
Comes in a strip, cut off as much as needed, removed wax paper covering and shape to desired size..
Instantly bonds and can be removed if need be, stays pliable..
The vehicle we have the window is basically just floating, I can push the window up or down with my hands. The motor inside is working, I can even see the part inside going up and down, it's just not raising or lowering the window.
You may want to check to see if the window regulator is binding on something.
Yes you would need to so that you can access the motor.
You guys are awesome!! I will be replacing the regulator on my explorer today. What size were the nuts and bolts that were used in the video?
Did you figure this out? I'm going to home depot to pick bolts up and plan on guesstimating.
not sure about there stuff...but I used 1/4-20x1 hex bolts
If they are glued on you may need to get some new connectors and glue to re-install them onto the glass.
I gotta change the regular on my 99 at some point. Thanks for this video, it’ll help. I was wondering does window switch panel unplug from the harness? The cover separated from the switch panel and I could see someone glued it together before
I'd like to know which wires need repair to allow my window to work with the driver door open. It works fine when closed but will not work when open. I've had it 5 years and it's always been that way.
I was ready to tear my regulator from this same Explorer.. My window rolled up crooked. I thought it was the motor, turned out the only thing wrong with it was the window just separated from the inside window clamp. 6.50 cents later i fixed. Always start with the small things first. Rolls up like a champ.
removing the motor from the regulator will free up the window to gain access to that last rivet on the bottom of the regulator.
Do you have any videos for the rear passenger windows?? They don't look like that and my 92 explorer has a track
Great video, helped me get the new regulator in without a hitch. Ended up having a bent track as well.. that was fun. :-)
Thanks for watching. Have a great day! 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Thanks for the video. If your window keeps sliding off of the regulator, is that because the regulator is bad, or another issue?
hi long since acquiring parts come with you are honest and have good parts, just one question for this video as I could say that the screws are to buy thanks
Great video now I need to replace mine
It shouldn't be to hard. There should be three screws that hold it in place. We carry new window motors for your Ford Explorer with free shipping in the lower 48 states, on our website 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I'm finding this video to be very helpful, I just bought a new regulator for my truck. My question(s) to be clear, what size nuts and bolts do you use to replace all of the rivers. Another question I have is what would be a good glue, or epoxy to attack the holders for the window itself. The ones that attack to the regulator arm??
+Shawn Saaler Thank you for checking us out. The size bolts and nuts are dependent on the size drill used to remove the rivets. The glue or epoxy is a personal preference, but 3M has some really good products. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts alright sounds good. Thanks a million.
This video is fantastic and it helped me and a buddy replace the regulator in a 96 Explorer. The problem I keep having is that the glass will not stay in the channels. I've used 2 different types of Loctite and an epoxy, and pinched the channels. Eventually, the window pops out of one or both of the channels. Any suggestions?
+Scott Munn We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for the video. Helped out a great deal.
+Mitchell Woodham Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Ford/Explorer/1AWRK00467?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&UfSotzIiA
if i buy this product wat is the size bolts i will be needing to to fasten down your product so when i go to the hardware store i know what size .
Very informational! Do you guys know if the front driver's doorglass on a 2007 Explorer Sport Trac is held in by rivets?
@1aauto I'll keep that in mind...thanks!
What causes the windows both front doors to bog down or hard to wind down, especially during cold weather?
You should use a drill bit big enough to remove the head of the rivet.
I need to do this repair (passenger door, '96). The only problem is that my motor is shot (which is why I'm doing the repair), so I can't move the regulator up/down to position the nuts/rivets in the holes/cutouts for easiest removal - the window is all the way down. I'm concerned especially about punching out that first rivet you did (on the bottom track); I can't see it or get to it... is it necessary to break the regulator there to get it out? I've seen a few other videos where they don't break it.
Just to clarify. ALL bolts are M6 with 10mm head with the windows being just a bit longer? Thanks!
It would probably be easier to remove the regulator and do the work outside of the door panel since the rivets need to be removed and bolts installed.
Replaced motor and regulator on 96 Explorer but now window jumps track just before it reaches the top when I roll it up. Took apart passenger side to compare. I can't figure it out.
Are the ones on the back the same size as the front?
Didn't see you lubricate the new regular or silicone spray the windows track.
Hey I have a 1997 mecury mountaineer none of the windows are going up or down from the main driver switch or the passenger side switches
Hey y’all! I have a 95 explorer with a missing rear driver side window. Do y’all have a video on how to replace the glass or could you offer some guidance? Thanks!
Thanks for posting
Thank you for watching!
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Thanks a lot for these videos. But the problem with my window is that the two pieces that are attach to the window came off the window, and the track came off the regulator. any suggestions for the fix. If u understand what Im asking.
is there any way you can make a video showing how to replace a window motor on a 1994 ford explorer sport thats a two door one please and thank you if you do
great video. much help thanks
what if you're replacing the regulator with a used window regulator.. The used one doesn't have the brace that connects to the window. what kind of bolts will you need to reconnect the bolts you knocked out to free the regulator from the window?
You would need to purchase a couple of screws to bolt it into your Ford Explorer.
my dad and i have a 1993 ford explorer and the window motor doesn't work at all and is rolled up. with this being a problem how would you suggest going and getting the regulator out without the window falling and breaking?
Do I need to go thorugh all this if I only need to replace the motor?
What was that little piece called that he drilled out at the beginning of the video
I was having issues with my window not going up. I took the entire door apart, drilling out rivets. By the time I drilled the rivets I thought I should have checked the fuses first. Turned out it was a 2 dollar fuse. On the inside fuse panel its number 10 for the door actuator. Check and replace that before tearing the panel off. I feel pretty dumb but im happy i fixed my window in time for the fall cool off.
+Rubber Johnny ahh, that's a bummer! But we're glad you were able to get the repair done! Enjoy the fall weather :) For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Ford/Explorer/1AWRK00467?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Great info! Sorry to hear about the trouble you went through. Btw, did you have trouble with all your windows or just one? I'm trying to beat the Fall rain too. My front passenger window is all the way down and is not going up. All the other 3 windows are working fine. There's not one mention of power windows in the fuse box diagram. I know the GEM module affects the windows and there seem to be 5 fuses (#10, 20, 25, 27, 28) on the interior fuse box with the GEM description (found descriptions online) on it. So far the fuses looks good. I'm still hoping it's just a fuse. The window is all the way down and drilling the part of the regulator that attaches to the upper window track/support is impossible. Btw, what size bolts (1/4 diameter hex?, length?) and nuts did you use to reinstall your regulator? Shoot, it's gonna rain tonight!
Well my girlfriend did a dumb move and rolled down the window. Now i will have to replace the motor and regulator. Quick question. Does the regulator come with the nuts and bolts or is that separate?
What size are the bolts to replace the rivets ????
I have a 99 windstar. the window is stuck all the way up. It is the motor that needs replacing. Do i have to take out the whole regulator to replace the motor? I am new to this. Your advice is appreciated. If so, how do I get the window down to detach it from the window?
I have a 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.06L 2D Coupe. Is it possible to get the power window motor and regulator out without destroying them to clean and add lubrication ? Thanx in advance
The first part drilled out, you start with "small" then 3/16 then 1/8. Did you mean 1/4 or was it 1/16 then 1/8? 1/4 looks rather large for that fitting.
Thanks man!
Window on my explorer won't roll back up. It makes no noise. At one point it rolled down more but wouldn't rebound. It is basically the switch, right? If so, can I bypass the switch just to get it up?
Do you think it is my regulator that needs replacing? My front driver’s window is stuck all the way in the down position. When I hold the switch in either direction, I hear a little squeak-ish electric noise. I’ve tried lubricating with white lithium lubricant and no luck (that’s what auto shop did to fix it last time ~1 year ago). Won’t budge when I use force to push the window up. Do you think it’s worth opening things up to check for any broken/damaged wires before replacing the regulator? Really don’t want to fork out the ridiculous 300 or so bucks for this after I paid 200 last time and it’s already broken again. Thanks for your help in the video, and in advance if you reply here!!!
I also just noticed the regulator you sell doesn’t include the motor, I guess I’d have to make sure it’s not the motor that’s shot? Although I saw one of your comments saying if it’s the motor then I’d be able to push the window up... I don’t know.
Always wear safety glasses when using a high speed drill.
You would need to buy a couple of bolts from the hardware store.
What size screws in bolts did you use to replace for vivid's
Funny you fastforward through the MOST difficult part of the job