I've been all over the internet during the last two months trying to learn how to fix my dryer. These videos are some of the best, because they offer a good amount of thorough information and they get to the point! Thanks!
Great video, I appreciated the thorough step by step through each potential cause. In my case it ended up being the heating element being grounded. I disagree however that if it is grounded that it needs to be replaced. I was able to pull my heating element off and found that one of the coils had shifted and touched the side of the box, thus grounding the heating element. Once I moved the coil off of the side and way from any other metal to where it wouldn't likely touch anything else. My ohm meter then only showed continuity from the leads on the outside of the heating element. No longer showing continuity from the leads and the outside of the box. Once plugged up. The problem with the heating element staying on without the motor running, had been fixed. Probably saved between 20 and 40 bucks by looking and moving a coil.
Just ordered cycling thermostat (rated at 150, it opened circuit at close to 200 degrees), high limit thermostat (one lead was melted when I opened up back of dryer), and thermal fuse (unit shut off after it became so hot to touch). Thanks again for the clear instructions.
I have the same problem and it's been a long time. Typically burning up the heating element or the wire and connector to the heating element. I tested the cycling thermostat in the oven in a small cast iron pan. Thermostat did open up until approximately 200°F.
You had it easy. The stack units have the high limit thermostat and the thermal fuse behind the dryer drum. Making access to them impossible without tearing the whole thing apart! Oh What Fun That Was!
Great video! My Maytag dryer has just started overheating such that I smelled it. I’ve checked for lint now I know how to check the 6 parts likely causing the over heating. Your videos are simple, on point, easy to follow
Very informational video thank you. Just wondering if anyone knew where to find a diagram for the wiring for all of the sensors so I can avoid wiring them inversely?
@ 1:56 What does ".0L" mean? - on the left side image? And I thought we should be on the ohm setting - I don't know what setting this multi-tester is on.
My thermal fuse blew the other day, went and got a new one. After one load on med/perm press dryer was running really hot averaging exhaust temps of 160-180deg and dryer hose was hot to the touch.. Tested continuity on heating element, but did not test cycling therm and high limit therm like you did in the video. I got inconsistent temps on my high limit therm, sometimes it tripped at 250deg sometimes over 300deg. Bought and installed new high limit therm, and now my average temps at the blower are 110-120 deg and 95-98deg at the vent on the medium heat setting.
hi,if all the fuses are good they beeping,for continuity but dryer get hot for 30 second then the heater element turn off what should I do,what is next to check,thank you for your answer
Great video! Comprehensive, well produced, to the point. I love the links to required parts on your site. Just one suggestion - add Main Control Board as an 8th possible overheat cause. In my Whirlpool Duet dryer the Cycling Thermostat function is accomplished on the control board. After replacing all of the other components as part of an overhaul and overheat repair, without success, I replaced the Main Control Board and that resolved my uncontrolled/overheat problem. Overall, the parts I bought from you came to under $500. I avoided having to buy a replacement dryer at less than half the cost of a new appliance and, hopefully, will get another ten years of trouble free performance.
I know this totally off the subject. But the same is true with these super deluxe,super expensive box style space heaters. They use a Main Control Board also. After changing all the components in the one I was working on and it still didn't work. I had to tell my neighbor that his heater was a boat ancore. The main board was not available anymore.
Can the thermistor be on the Heating coill housing instead of the blower housing? I have something that looks identical to your but at the top of the heating coil housing. Thanks
Thank you! You should read continuity with no resistance between the two large terminals. The two small terminals should read about 9K ohms at about 70°F.
Not necessarily. It depends on where the coil is grounded. Normally, there is 240v across the coil. Imagine each lug being connected to one of the 120v "hot" wires in your 240v circuit from the panel. If the middle of the coil happens to be grounded, then you get 120v from each side going through half the coil to ground. It isn't at all a "dead short". Now, sure, if the coil happens to be touching in a spot very close to one of the ends, then you'd be close to a dead short and probably trip the breaker. But the ends are connected to the lugs, where they are well supported away from the case. These things tend to touch more out in the middle where the springy wires can get deformed or bent.
The dryer vent has been cleaned. Fuses and thermostats have been replaced. Why would the "Delicate" cycle on a dryer continue to run hotter than any other cycle?
Used Frigidaire (Electrolux) dryer doesn’t overheat during test runs with the vent hose disconnected but does within a minute when I connect the vent hose. You’d think the vent was clogged inside the wall but it’s not: I bought a drill-operated cleaning brush and made sure it was clear. I’ve taken apart the whole thing multiple times and made sure to seal everything after the blower motor to keep it from recirculating hot air but it still gets way too hot within a minute of connecting the vent hose to the wall. What gives?! No, the heating element coils aren’t grounding out and I can set it to “No Heat” and they don’t come on. Only thing I can think of is that connecting it causes just enough back pressure to reveal a different issue with the cycling thermostat so I will be testing it with a heat gun the next time I have it apart. That said, I figure I’d find at least one person with this issue online and I haven’t. Weird. Other things to note: The foam seal around the blower intake doesn’t look great but it definitely shouldn’t be recirculating hot air the moment I connect to the wall vent.
@@kachiquitaito3341 Thanks. It was a tight turn but a short run that only requires two segments of the typical drill-powered cleaning brush. The turn was so tight that it causes the flexible brush shaft to tangle up when you try to get past it. We couldn’t even reach it from the outside so we had to go inside-out. After several more passes we cleared out a bit more of whatever was obstructing it… probably a wasp nest. The home hasn’t had anyone living there in the 2.5 years since a tornado tore off the back balcony along with the dryer vent cover (…and the roof, and the trees, and my car, etc). I was able to see daylight from the inside and I had already passed the cleaning brush through to the outside so I didn’t think it just needed more cleaning but it seems I was wrong. Works great now!
my dryer keeps tripping the breaker after running a while.. now the dryer seems to be getting too hot. smells kind of burnish inside the drum after running a while. what should i check for ?
Great Video. Thanks for posting. I have a question that may be kind of an ignorant one. Does it matter if the wires going to the cycling thermostat get switched in the re-installation, or for the high limit thermostat for that matter, or should it regulate and cycle either way since the thermostat is basically just a switch? Thanks
my dryer keeps overheating after changing the timer, all the thermostats, the thermal fuse twice, checked blower wheel, air flow, and is still over heating. Also the drum turns with door open and even after changing the door switch it still runs with door open. the video is great and is a go to for me, but this dryer is over heating for other reasons that are unique. My guess is the harnesses.
I actually just did this and it was completely open between each hot prong and the metal dryer chassis. I'll pull the dryer out and actually test properly but I still wonder if this would show resistance if the element was broken and or shorted to the chassis. Oh, and what if your dryer is older and only has three prongs, (2 hot, 1 neutral) wouldn't the short to ground pop the breaker?
Ivan M I neglected to say it gives heat on all settings including the no heat setting. Would that still be a shorted out heating element? Thank you for your help.
The way your dryer should work is when you put it on no heat, it dries clothes by air from the blower without heat, and on the heat setting, it should give out heat. Well, my theory is the heater is shorted to ground. You can test it for continuity and see if that's correct.
What is wrong with my control board to cause it to blow the thermal fuse after a few loads of laundry? The problem follows the control board. Thank you,
The cb cannot read the resistance rates from the thermistor thus blowing it. Read the thermistor from the board, then the thermistor to determine the bad part
I have replaced Thermal fuse located on heating element 5 times! The continuity works on the high limit thermostat next it. and the heating element itself passes the test as well. Is there another thermal fuse and thermistor behind the blower that I need to replace as well?
Mine wasn’t clean and the old style vent was damaged leaking air. I cleaned up everything but still running hot unfortunately. There is a burnt smell coming from the coils. I’m guessing one of the two thermostats. They are not easy to reach either😢
Your instructions were to quick. Also you didn’t explain when testing for continuity why you need to put one probe On the heating element housing and one probe on the actual terminal And why couldn’t you have just put two of the probes on both prongs to test it.
Putting one probe on the terminal, and one on the housing, is not testing for continuity. It is testing to see if the coil itself is touching the housing anywhere (which means it is grounded, as he says in the video). If the coil is grounded, it will run all the time and overheat. As a second completely different test, you could also put the ohmmeter probes across the two heater terminals, just to see if it reads the correct resistance. But that would not be looking for a cause of the dryer overheating and blowing fuses. That would be testing just to see if the coil is broken, which would cause you to get no heat.
I've been all over the internet during the last two months trying to learn how to fix my dryer. These videos are some of the best, because they offer a good amount of thorough information and they get to the point! Thanks!
PS: This is the BEST how to video I've found. Got my drier fixed. Thanks
Great video, I appreciated the thorough step by step through each potential cause. In my case it ended up being the heating element being grounded. I disagree however that if it is grounded that it needs to be replaced. I was able to pull my heating element off and found that one of the coils had shifted and touched the side of the box, thus grounding the heating element. Once I moved the coil off of the side and way from any other metal to where it wouldn't likely touch anything else. My ohm meter then only showed continuity from the leads on the outside of the heating element. No longer showing continuity from the leads and the outside of the box. Once plugged up. The problem with the heating element staying on without the motor running, had been fixed.
Probably saved between 20 and 40 bucks by looking and moving a coil.
Just ordered cycling thermostat (rated at 150, it opened circuit at close to 200 degrees), high limit thermostat (one lead was melted when I opened up back of dryer), and thermal fuse (unit shut off after it became so hot to touch). Thanks again for the clear instructions.
I have the same problem and it's been a long time. Typically burning up the heating element or the wire and connector to the heating element. I tested the cycling thermostat in the oven in a small cast iron pan. Thermostat did open up until approximately 200°F.
You had it easy. The stack units have the high limit thermostat and the thermal fuse behind the dryer drum. Making access to them impossible without tearing the whole thing apart! Oh What Fun That Was!
Like the tutorial. Straight forward without unnecessary blah blah bla.
And no rock or hip hop concert in background or foreground! How ever you want to perceive it.
d walker Jajaja 👍
Great video! My Maytag dryer has just started overheating such that I smelled it. I’ve checked for lint now I know how to check the 6 parts likely causing the over heating. Your videos are simple, on point, easy to follow
Glad we were able to help. If you have questions or need help with anything please let us know.
Very informational video thank you. Just wondering if anyone knew where to find a diagram for the wiring for all of the sensors so I can avoid wiring them inversely?
This video was exactly what I needed! Great descriptions, and easy to follow.
Excellent video,I have a much better understanding of the overall workings of my dryer
@ 1:56 What does ".0L" mean? - on the left side image? And I thought we should be on the ohm setting - I don't know what setting this multi-tester is on.
Open loop, ie no continuity
how hot is too hot for the heating element?
I'm getting a Phd in appliance repair online with these videos.
My thermal fuse blew the other day, went and got a new one. After one load on med/perm press dryer was running really hot averaging exhaust temps of 160-180deg and dryer hose was hot to the touch.. Tested continuity on heating element, but did not test cycling therm and high limit therm like you did in the video. I got inconsistent temps on my high limit therm, sometimes it tripped at 250deg sometimes over 300deg. Bought and installed new high limit therm, and now my average temps at the blower are 110-120 deg and 95-98deg at the vent on the medium heat setting.
How often do you clean your duct work to the outside and how often do you clean the lint filter?
@@appliancepartspros not much lint at all, and blower didn't have much either.
You guys have THE BEST videos! Thank you so much!🎉😊
You are welcome. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
I would like to purchase the dryer please
Great video thank you!
hi,if all the fuses are good they beeping,for continuity but dryer get hot for 30 second then the heater element turn off what should I do,what is next to check,thank you for your answer
Awesome video, very clearly explained, good job.
What is it when your electric dryer works as it should and shuts off at the end of the cycle, but the heat is staying on?
Great video! Comprehensive, well produced, to the point. I love the links to required parts on your site. Just one suggestion - add Main Control Board as an 8th possible overheat cause. In my Whirlpool Duet dryer the Cycling Thermostat function is accomplished on the control board. After replacing all of the other components as part of an overhaul and overheat repair, without success, I replaced the Main Control Board and that resolved my uncontrolled/overheat problem. Overall, the parts I bought from you came to under $500. I avoided having to buy a replacement dryer at less than half the cost of a new appliance and, hopefully, will get another ten years of trouble free performance.
I know this totally off the subject. But the same is true with these super deluxe,super expensive box style space heaters. They use a Main Control Board also. After changing all the components in the one I was working on and it still didn't work. I had to tell my neighbor that his heater was a boat ancore. The main board was not available anymore.
Can the thermistor be on the Heating coill housing instead of the blower housing? I have something that looks identical to your but at the top of the heating coil housing. Thanks
Thanks for sharing this. It's a great help to save $$$
What reading should you have on the other 2 terminals on the cycling thermostat?
What is your model number?
@@appliancepartspros DVLR223EG7WW
Thank you! You should read continuity with no resistance between the two large terminals. The two small terminals should read about 9K ohms at about 70°F.
If the element is shorted to case wouldn't that trip the breaker If the case is properly grounded ?
My same question! I also wonder how this condition would play out with a 4 prong dryer plug vs. a 3 prong dryer plug.
Not necessarily. It depends on where the coil is grounded. Normally, there is 240v across the coil. Imagine each lug being connected to one of the 120v "hot" wires in your 240v circuit from the panel. If the middle of the coil happens to be grounded, then you get 120v from each side going through half the coil to ground. It isn't at all a "dead short". Now, sure, if the coil happens to be touching in a spot very close to one of the ends, then you'd be close to a dead short and probably trip the breaker. But the ends are connected to the lugs, where they are well supported away from the case. These things tend to touch more out in the middle where the springy wires can get deformed or bent.
What would cause a dryer to not heat on the high setting, while the low and medium settings work?
Bad timer
cycling thermostat
Would a bad thermostat cause the dryer to run hotter then normal ?
Yes
watched several videos and this one is the only one I could understand and do🤗😀 thank you gotta go and fix my dryer
Excelente explicación gracias
Thanks for tips!
How do you not have a million likes
Great video, thank you!
The dryer vent has been cleaned. Fuses and thermostats have been replaced. Why would the "Delicate" cycle on a dryer continue to run hotter than any other cycle?
Very good video, thanks
Wow!!!! This is the best video I've seen on how to diagnose a dryer over-heating issue. Thank you so much.
Used Frigidaire (Electrolux) dryer doesn’t overheat during test runs with the vent hose disconnected but does within a minute when I connect the vent hose. You’d think the vent was clogged inside the wall but it’s not: I bought a drill-operated cleaning brush and made sure it was clear.
I’ve taken apart the whole thing multiple times and made sure to seal everything after the blower motor to keep it from recirculating hot air but it still gets way too hot within a minute of connecting the vent hose to the wall. What gives?!
No, the heating element coils aren’t grounding out and I can set it to “No Heat” and they don’t come on.
Only thing I can think of is that connecting it causes just enough back pressure to reveal a different issue with the cycling thermostat so I will be testing it with a heat gun the next time I have it apart. That said, I figure I’d find at least one person with this issue online and I haven’t. Weird.
Other things to note: The foam seal around the blower intake doesn’t look great but it definitely shouldn’t be recirculating hot air the moment I connect to the wall vent.
If the pipe is very long or is very bent it may make it very hot I saw it in another video.
@@kachiquitaito3341 Thanks. It was a tight turn but a short run that only requires two segments of the typical drill-powered cleaning brush. The turn was so tight that it causes the flexible brush shaft to tangle up when you try to get past it. We couldn’t even reach it from the outside so we had to go inside-out. After several more passes we cleared out a bit more of whatever was obstructing it… probably a wasp nest. The home hasn’t had anyone living there in the 2.5 years since a tornado tore off the back balcony along with the dryer vent cover (…and the roof, and the trees, and my car, etc). I was able to see daylight from the inside and I had already passed the cleaning brush through to the outside so I didn’t think it just needed more cleaning but it seems I was wrong. Works great now!
This is how a "how to" video is done.😀
Do you carry GE dishwashers? I need a insulation blanket for my new unit
Awesome video!
my dryer keeps tripping the breaker after running a while.. now the dryer seems to be getting too hot. smells kind of burnish inside the drum after running a while. what should i check for ?
I had a grounded element and I just had to move it back on to the ceramic mount…
Nothing about the left back of top getting so hot you can't touch it, 2016 hotpoint ?
How do I test my motor to see if it is overheating?
Excellent!
Great job Matt. Who owns your company?
Awesome vid brother
Thank you. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
What a great channel, instant sub!
Great Video. Thanks for posting.
I have a question that may be kind of an ignorant one. Does it matter if the wires going to the cycling thermostat get switched in the re-installation, or for the high limit thermostat for that matter, or should it regulate and cycle either way since the thermostat is basically just a switch? Thanks
It doesn't. like you said it's basically a switch.
my dryer keeps overheating after changing the timer, all the thermostats, the thermal fuse twice, checked blower wheel, air flow, and is still over heating. Also the drum turns with door open and even after changing the door switch it still runs with door open. the video is great and is a go to for me, but this dryer is over heating for other reasons that are unique. My guess is the harnesses.
I'm lazy and don't want to pull it out. Any way to test for a shorted element by checking each hot prong of the power plug to metal dryer chassis?
I actually just did this and it was completely open between each hot prong and the metal dryer chassis. I'll pull the dryer out and actually test properly but I still wonder if this would show resistance if the element was broken and or shorted to the chassis. Oh, and what if your dryer is older and only has three prongs, (2 hot, 1 neutral) wouldn't the short to ground pop the breaker?
Superb
i have an older electric dryer. Basically a Whirlpool. It gives heat on the "no heat" setting. Which of the components tested would cause this?
Have to replace your heating element. It shorted out
Ivan M I neglected to say it gives heat on all settings including the no heat setting. Would that still be a shorted out heating element? Thank you for your help.
Check the heat element
The way your dryer should work is when you put it on no heat, it dries clothes by air from the blower without heat, and on the heat setting, it should give out heat. Well, my theory is the heater is shorted to ground. You can test it for continuity and see if that's correct.
What if it doesnt show anything when im touching the box and the outlet part. Also my thermistor is reading like 230+
What is the model number of your dryer? There are no lights showing on the display at all?
@appliancepartspros DVE45M5500Z/A3 n no it's not showing any light. Just straight ----
Have you recently had any type of power outages?
@@appliancepartspros no sir I havnt
What is wrong with my control board to cause it to blow the thermal fuse after a few loads of laundry? The problem follows the control board. Thank you,
The cb cannot read the resistance rates from the thermistor thus blowing it. Read the thermistor from the board, then the thermistor to determine the bad part
I have replaced Thermal fuse located on heating element 5 times! The continuity works on the high limit thermostat next it. and the heating element itself passes the test as well. Is there another thermal fuse and thermistor behind the blower that I need to replace as well?
Thank you
You're welcome!
One major problem. You don’t test continuity with the volt setting. The video should refer to Mega ohm (open circuit) “0.0 ohms closed).
It’s almost always the airflow. Like, 95% of the time sort of almost always.
If you’re here, check your vent.
Mine wasn’t clean and the old style vent was damaged leaking air. I cleaned up everything but still running hot unfortunately. There is a burnt smell coming from the coils. I’m guessing one of the two thermostats. They are not easy to reach either😢
I don't have a voltage meter to check all that. Guess I'll just buy a new dry
Are you able to borrow a voltage meter from someone so you could do the testing?
Thermo fuse
Your instructions were to quick. Also you didn’t explain when testing for continuity why you need to put one probe On the heating element housing and one probe on the actual terminal And why couldn’t you have just put two of the probes on both prongs to test it.
Putting one probe on the terminal, and one on the housing, is not testing for continuity. It is testing to see if the coil itself is touching the housing anywhere (which means it is grounded, as he says in the video). If the coil is grounded, it will run all the time and overheat. As a second completely different test, you could also put the ohmmeter probes across the two heater terminals, just to see if it reads the correct resistance. But that would not be looking for a cause of the dryer overheating and blowing fuses. That would be testing just to see if the coil is broken, which would cause you to get no heat.
It's Mario Bros!
Chapters:
0:19 1. Restricted Airflow
0:42 2. Heating Element
2:24 3. Cycling Thermostat
3:47 4. High Limit Thermostat
4:52 5. Cycling Thermostat Bias Heater
6:00 6. Thermostor
7:00 7. Blower Wheel
7:42 Dryer Safety Tip
Great information very helpful