If that was my house I would have you make good all the anomalies. I would only feel assured everything is fine if it is all as per the regs. Now I’m gonna watch this video again while I have a look at my boiler and the way it’s all set up. Top work fella and thanks for posting the videos you make. 👍
This is bad Risk of CO poisoning if the the poorly installed flue falls apart , if not then get zapped with 240volts from water in the electrics Used to fit loads of Isar Icos boilers on the Warm Front program years ago Even fitted correctly they’re rubbish and weren’t built to last When I bought the place I’m in now there was an Isar installed As soon a I got the keys I ripped it out and replaced it with a Vaillant I would recommend to this customer here that they do the same and let you to rip out this sorry mess and start again with a brand new install done right Great video as usual Cheers
Hi Allen, loving your videos! Seeing as your open to suggestions, I would love to see more on fault finding as well gas controls video and how each of them work...much appreciated!
As an electrical engineer, that smells like an illegal cut out move to me, nothing at all looks compliant. The give away is the fact it is on its side, non compliant baseboard, and it should all be compliant as that is a new style smart meter, so I suspect the cut out was in a different place and moved. If you look at the split concentric feeding the cut out you can tell this looks like it has been moved. Either a very very bad meter fitter or someone has been at that. The red labelling around the cut out as well shows someone has noticed it has been tampered with in the past. I would be putting a call in for it to be checked by the DNO. Something does not look right at all. Considering what you have found with the gas, makes sense there to be non complant electrical work as well.
@@scottkeeble9389 Leeds is where I work, just not spotted any like that sideways at all in my career, or working around this area 🤔. Every day is a school day. Likely to be a bit like Manchester, there is an entire housing estate with the really old cast iron fused netrual cut outs, with a block of copper in the netrual. Only seen those on that estate.
Yeah fair few in meanwood. Beeston and seacroft. It's the houses that are like a block of terraces with like a porch built on. The meters are in the top cupboard and the bottom is like a bin store. And when you go inside the house theres a little hatch to turn the tap off so it becomes accessible for the customer. 😫
Brilliant video Allen, I would put some extra stud work in the loft to support the flue, and completely reinstall all the gas pipework in 22mm with clips and run the PRV pipework under the floor and out of the wall but considering the age of that boiler I would be tempted to replace it with a nice new baxi boiler :)
@@johnburns4017 yeah but newer condensing boilers especially the one's I've seen develop serious problems regarding heat exchanger and combustion chamber around the 6 year mark. In my opinion the old pottertons were the best, they last forever :)
@@richardgilmore0315 I believe Intergas, after 20 odd years, have not had one heat exchanger fail. If a boiler is fitted in a proper system ensuring proper flow through the heat exchanger with weather compensation, or OpenTherm room temp control to keep the boiler temperatures down, *the heat exchangers tend to last.*
@@johnburns4017 I think most of the damage is caused by the system not being inhibited properly or not at all, because most diyers tend to drain their systems to install new radiators and not replace the inhibitor when refilling the system
*28mm to 22mm gas run *Prv and condense into conlift re-run internally *New vessel or recharge *4 flue brackets *Rewire in flex and conduits Or fit new boiler lol What would you charge for works
On the face of it I would rectify the fault, clip the pipes, run the PRV into the cond. (although this should only be done with pushfit connections as the solvent is not designed for PRV temperatures) and cost the work on the flue and upgrading the gas pipe. Then I would have a conversation with the client about throwing good money after bad and see where they want to go. The system would need a proper flush with a new boiler and it may need to be moved to make the pipework easier, i.e minimal floor disruption. The boiler I would recommend would be either a Baxi, Worcester or Viessmann if they want a medium to top boiler or something like a Logic + or an Alpha if they wanted something cheaper. Like a lot of folks say, these boilers can need a lot of maintenance so it might be better to cut your losses sooner rather than later.
That looks like some sort of newer version of the Ideal Isar, one of the worst boilers ever. PCBs regularly blow, main heat exchangers leak, terrible to service. Horrible!
Allen Hart no contest, it would have to be a Baxi 600 or the Main equivalent. Fairly reliable and easy to work on in the future. Although the Potterton Assures we’ve fitted lately have had a few issues with leaks from where the pressure gauge is connected. Overall good boilers though.
I would get the grid out to sort the gas inlet out. The governor can only be 2m away from ecv. And I would put the prv into a hot tun then t into the condense. Thanks for the video mate.
The ecv will be just on the other side of the meter. Will be less than 2m. And it's not grids issue it's the suppliers and they wont sort it. Nothing wrong with that install just looks shit and abit of a pain to test.
No PRV ....... God.... flue looks iffy too.... good work... new boiler... 22mm Gas upgrade to get your 19/20mbar working.. and gas rates satisfactory...
Clip the pipes, clip the gas pipe, do the calculation on the gas supply ( that's what you're supposed to be able to do) , make sure the condensate gets into the gutter, don't tell the customer they need a new boiler when you're simply picking fault
Relocate existing boiler to outhouse with new expansion vessel.Run new heating and hot water pipes into the house and armoured cable into outhouse for boiler.Flew,Prv pipe,gas supply and condensate pipe all sorted in one move.
My first issue would be gas meter location i.e. proximity to electrical services. After that, new boiler, Viessmann Vitodens which will sort out prv and condensate as the existing pipe can take both, update outside to 32mm pipe. New flue to roof properly bracketed. CO alarms one sensor in attic with interlocking to boiler. In this neck of the woods €4700 and hope someone else gets the job!
Hi Allen it’s down to what the customer can afford and the sort the faults out or possibly better fir a new boiler as they will get a good warranty but cost it up both projects and let the customer decide with the help of your expertise. Thanks alex
Trace back gas pipe and update to 22mm, refill expansion vessel, support the flue correctly, tidy up pipework around boiler, connect prv into condensate with a tundish, give Boiler a good service..
Hypothetically. Fingers crossed the shreader pokes out the top. Pump it to see if new vessel is needed.2ft Rubber hose from blow off to condensation £20 Optional Replace the gutter £50 or rotate outside pipe 180 and extend £25 Glue some pipe clips in£10 Couple of bits of timber in attic for big clips£30. board inside shed to hide floating pipe. £40. give or take depending on customer attitude and how skint they say they are(looking in the fridge helps)
there is two ways off doing it correct way ( expensive) or work with what you have by adding external expansion vessel and make it safe to use that installation is really poor I am suprised is been signed by the gas engineer that's shocking thanks Allen for sharing this information with us.
With all that is wrong with this boiler, I would have a look to see if it would be fitted somewhere else in the house and due to the age of the boiler, a new boiler would be best, If no better location can be found then an upgrade to comply with regulations would be required.
Alan ,not sure of exact model but it looks like an Isis or icos These are possible the worst boilers ever produced .we looked after a lot of Ideal Isis and regularly had to replace many off them after only five years. They are a money pit The heat exchanger leaks water and they rot around the exit connection of the sump onto the trap .Do not waste your clients money on even trying to repair it .We striped and serviced them every year correctly but still the reliability was poor .It may be cheaper to move the boiler down stairs if you have somewhere suitable for it .
♦ The PRV can be teed to the return at the boiler. Then a *2 bar* PRV can be at a more convenient position near an outside wall, taken from the rad circuit. Vaillant make an expensive kit for this. Just buying a 2 bar PRV saves a lot of money. ♦ The gas pipe maybe sized OK. Just test it. ♦ The gas meter. It is obvious he extended the inlet. In general, an inlet *can* be extended, as long as the main control valve is still in place, with the inlet extension well clipped (school board clips) and another control valve at the meter position, well strapped, with a label stating where the main valve is. No running through void spaces, under floors, must be sleeved through walls, extended gas pipe wrapped in gas tape. Why does the meter need to be back in the house? The vid does not show the gas main point of entry. Where is it? BES supply the ECVs, etc. Best to use some iron short pieces at the new meter position to avoid inexperienced meter readers from wrongly reporting it. They will then think it has not been extended. ♦ The flue pipe can be clipped properly using wood batons across the rafters and proper clips. Not a big job. ♦ The electrics should be properly checked and made safer to suit. Fit a room stat if one not fitted. ♦ No TRVs on all rads. ♦ Also, fit a filter on the return. ♦ A Grundfos Condlift condensate pump can take the condensate *and* PRV outlet pipe. Interlocked with boiler supply, so if pump fails the boiler is switched out. £56 from Screwfix. I assume you cut the boiler off leaving a notice. That is just to get it up to current regs. Then the water system needs looking at. Full bore maintap? Dedicated 22mm pipe to combi inlet from maintap? Wondervalves on all taps to balance the H & C supply?
That’s been roughed In by some cowboy, I’d recommend new boiler, if in same position upgrade gas, condense, run PRV out, and obviously replace flue correctly with adequate supports.
Well for me it would also depend of the condition of the boiler inside, if all was OK I would put right all the faults you've found and carry on with the original boiler, but, remembering those boilers from years ago they were a bit of a pig so.. depends, With me it would all depend on the customer too and what their financial situation is at the time, some may not be able to go for a new install.
L F fault won't be expansion vessel fault its flame failure, possibly L9 fault once pressure drops to 0 and boiler overheats. Isars are designed for 15mm connections and as long as there is sufficient flow it's fine. Lazy and dangerous prv termination though.
Definitely should have picked up on the flue support. But the meter engineers @bg are only given a very limited scope of training when it comes to appliance checks. Also yes that inlet pipework on the regulator is shocking 😅
I’d recommend a new boiler in a much better location as the amount of work that needs to be done will be easier to fit a new boiler in a better location with less hassle
Replaced with a Vaillant, condensate and prv run into a condendsate pump and pumped externally from there (to somewhere). New gas run would be a pain. But i'm service only so just taking a guess 😂
@@AllenHart999 ♦ The Navien combi can be fitted outside, so inside a cold uninsulated outhouse is fine. ♦ As the combi may be inside the outhouse any combi would do with an Intergas 36 kW as first choice - built like tanks. The Rapid is cheap enough being solid and reliable. Best value for money of any combi on the market.
Not sure why you said the pipework at the meter wasnt supported. Its mounted on a meter bracket with rigid pipe both sides. Cant get more supported than that.
Well Allen, it’s a 1970s council house which looks to have had warm air central heating when new so reverting back to that could be an option if the customer would like that?
Allen Hart Gotta be a Baxi or Viessmann! But looking at the roof ridge vent them types of houses have warm air. I do look forward to future videos on this job! 😎
secure all the electrics , take flute through the wall and put an expansion vessel on it. Take pipe outside bit higher above gutter so it can run down that to that drain?
Baxi platinum , can you not connect blow off into condy pipe with a air break so you can see it if it goes off similar to the alpha boiler with combined blow off/ condensate cheers 👍
Allen Hart Hi Allen I am not an installer just someone with an interest and a DIYer but the baxi that you have would be my goto boiler I think (btw I know my limits and leave any gas work to you gas safe lads)
Move the boiler in the loft that flue length looks way too much, extend the pipes in the cupboard up to loft all clipped up. Re run gas and change boiler
Hi Allen thanks for the reply. Either stag or vailliant echo tech pure/ plus and obviously rate kw to flow rate on cold. Because no doubt that hasn’t been taken in to account. That install tho 🤭
looks like somebody has been playing around and relocated it in some way, all been plaster-boarded out behind it and from opposite side and meters all mounted on wood that isn’t even against the wall and other side looks like it’s a porch. So maybe they moved the wall to make their porch larger and needed to move the meter. Even the isolation valve from mains isn’t visible
Loads like that round Leeds. It's a stupid design the ecv is on the other side of where the meter is. Nothing wrong with it and hasnt been messed with.
LF fault could be the rectification lead damaged or probe bent, spark electrode bent. That’s the common ones. Could use a high temperature pump for the pressure relief pipe. It needs a lot of work. Might be better to relocate the boiler if possible. It’s hard to say without actually being there.
@@AllenHart999 Don't know to be honest mate, I'm hoping you might tell us... I'm only an apprentice and do commercial stuff which is why your videos are great for me to pick up some of the domestic side 👍
At 7 yo and an ideal better to replace than repair keep in same position combine blow off with condensate pump. To all saying AR doesn't exist anymore.
Dont touch those boiler, replacement or I walk away. They are the most dangerous boiler ever made. Used to look after 100s of them on contract, one day you could service the boiler and then a week later the main burner box gasket (the orange one that you cant maintain) would split and leak POC. It's pretty much impossible to predict when that seal could go. Not worth the risk of reputation or your gas safe.
Crikey! That meter installation... Where's the ecv ? I've never seen copper straight into regulator . That whole thing ain't right surely. And as for the flue ........
Not worth the money to repair/update that pile of crap. New boiler Baxi or one with combined prv and condense. run prv and condense into a pump and terminate internally
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I’m more concerned about the dodgey meter install 😂😂😂🤦♂️
I half expected it to be venting in the attic when you went up there 🤣
Me too
What boiler would you install?
Or come complatly apart
If that was my house I would have you make good all the anomalies. I would only feel assured everything is fine if it is all as per the regs. Now I’m gonna watch this video again while I have a look at my boiler and the way it’s all set up. Top work fella and thanks for posting the videos you make. 👍
This is bad
Risk of CO poisoning if the the poorly installed flue falls apart , if not then get zapped with 240volts from water in the electrics
Used to fit loads of Isar Icos boilers on the Warm Front program years ago
Even fitted correctly they’re rubbish and weren’t built to last
When I bought the place I’m in now there was an Isar installed
As soon a I got the keys I ripped it out and replaced it with a Vaillant
I would recommend to this customer here that they do the same and let you to rip out this sorry mess and start again with a brand new install done right
Great video as usual
Cheers
Definitely one of the worst i have seen in a while. Thanks.
Hi Allen, loving your videos! Seeing as your open to suggestions, I would love to see more on fault finding as well gas controls video and how each of them work...much appreciated!
My name is Allen Hart... love the intro
Thank you for taking the time to watch my video.
As an electrical engineer, that smells like an illegal cut out move to me, nothing at all looks compliant. The give away is the fact it is on its side, non compliant baseboard, and it should all be compliant as that is a new style smart meter, so I suspect the cut out was in a different place and moved. If you look at the split concentric feeding the cut out you can tell this looks like it has been moved.
Either a very very bad meter fitter or someone has been at that. The red labelling around the cut out as well shows someone has noticed it has been tampered with in the past.
I would be putting a call in for it to be checked by the DNO. Something does not look right at all.
Considering what you have found with the gas, makes sense there to be non complant electrical work as well.
Hundreds like that in Leeds mate. Absolute twats to test.
@@scottkeeble9389 Leeds is where I work, just not spotted any like that sideways at all in my career, or working around this area 🤔. Every day is a school day. Likely to be a bit like Manchester, there is an entire housing estate with the really old cast iron fused netrual cut outs, with a block of copper in the netrual. Only seen those on that estate.
Yeah fair few in meanwood. Beeston and seacroft. It's the houses that are like a block of terraces with like a porch built on. The meters are in the top cupboard and the bottom is like a bin store. And when you go inside the house theres a little hatch to turn the tap off so it becomes accessible for the customer. 😫
If I were the customer I'd be thinking 'oh no I need a new boiler fitting'.
😂😂😂😂What boiler would you install?
Brilliant video Allen, I would put some extra stud work in the loft to support the flue, and completely reinstall all the gas pipework in 22mm with clips and run the PRV pipework under the floor and out of the wall but considering the age of that boiler I would be tempted to replace it with a nice new baxi boiler :)
Should i reuse the cable ties 😂😂😂😂
Seven years is *not* old.
@@johnburns4017 yeah but newer condensing boilers especially the one's I've seen develop serious problems regarding heat exchanger and combustion chamber around the 6 year mark. In my opinion the old pottertons were the best, they last forever :)
@@richardgilmore0315
I believe Intergas, after 20 odd years, have not had one heat exchanger fail.
If a boiler is fitted in a proper system ensuring proper flow through the heat exchanger with weather compensation, or OpenTherm room temp control to keep the boiler temperatures down, *the heat exchangers tend to last.*
@@johnburns4017 I think most of the damage is caused by the system not being inhibited properly or not at all, because most diyers tend to drain their systems to install new radiators and not replace the inhibitor when refilling the system
*28mm to 22mm gas run
*Prv and condense into conlift re-run internally
*New vessel or recharge
*4 flue brackets
*Rewire in flex and conduits
Or fit new boiler lol
What would you charge for works
Would you change the boiler?
28mm is overkill, 22 mm is enough
On the face of it I would rectify the fault, clip the pipes, run the PRV into the cond. (although this should only be done with pushfit connections as the solvent is not designed for PRV temperatures) and cost the work on the flue and upgrading the gas pipe. Then I would have a conversation with the client about throwing good money after bad and see where they want to go. The system would need a proper flush with a new boiler and it may need to be moved to make the pipework easier, i.e minimal floor disruption. The boiler I would recommend would be either a Baxi, Worcester or Viessmann if they want a medium to top boiler or something like a Logic + or an Alpha if they wanted something cheaper. Like a lot of folks say, these boilers can need a lot of maintenance so it might be better to cut your losses sooner rather than later.
That looks like some sort of newer version of the Ideal Isar, one of the worst boilers ever. PCBs regularly blow, main heat exchangers leak, terrible to service. Horrible!
What boiler would you install?
Allen Hart no contest, it would have to be a Baxi 600 or the Main equivalent. Fairly reliable and easy to work on in the future. Although the Potterton Assures we’ve fitted lately have had a few issues with leaks from where the pressure gauge is connected. Overall good boilers though.
I would get the grid out to sort the gas inlet out. The governor can only be 2m away from ecv. And I would put the prv into a hot tun then t into the condense. Thanks for the video mate.
The ecv will be just on the other side of the meter. Will be less than 2m. And it's not grids issue it's the suppliers and they wont sort it.
Nothing wrong with that install just looks shit and abit of a pain to test.
@@scottkeeble9389 yes of course. Thanks for your reply
No PRV ....... God.... flue looks iffy too.... good work... new boiler... 22mm Gas upgrade to get your 19/20mbar working.. and gas rates satisfactory...
Quote for cable ties with the eyelets so you can secure them to the wall.
More cable ties 😂👍😂What boiler would you install?
Clip the pipes, clip the gas pipe, do the calculation on the gas supply ( that's what you're supposed to be able to do) , make sure the condensate gets into the gutter, don't tell the customer they need a new boiler when you're simply picking fault
Relocate existing boiler to outhouse with new expansion vessel.Run new heating and hot water pipes into the house and armoured cable into outhouse for boiler.Flew,Prv pipe,gas supply and condensate pipe all sorted in one move.
Never seen cable ties used to support a flue haha
Would you change boiler?
Yea I think so saying it has been so badly installed.
James Noble cable ties last longer than duct tape lol
My first issue would be gas meter location i.e. proximity to electrical services. After that, new boiler, Viessmann Vitodens which will sort out prv and condensate as the existing pipe can take both, update outside to 32mm pipe.
New flue to roof properly bracketed. CO alarms one sensor in attic with interlocking to boiler.
In this neck of the woods €4700 and hope someone else gets the job!
Condense pump for prv and condense up into the soil stack and external expansion
👍👍
Hi Allen it’s down to what the customer can afford and the sort the faults out or possibly better fir a new boiler as they will get a good warranty but cost it up both projects and let the customer decide with the help of your expertise. Thanks alex
It’s an icos/isar get it on the grass!
What boiler would you install?
Trace back gas pipe and update to 22mm, refill expansion vessel, support the flue correctly, tidy up pipework around boiler, connect prv into condensate with a tundish, give Boiler a good service..
Cable ties works every time 😅😂
You could combine prv with condensate using a tundish and 32mm high temperature resistance pipe.
P Nixxy yea that’s what I would do. Need to move drain.
Viessmann maybe?
Have they thought about moving house?
😂😂😂
Great video Allen?
Where have you been. Feels like it has been ages since you put a video up?
I have been busy at home doing my underfloor heating. Thanks for the kind words.
Hypothetically.
Fingers crossed the shreader pokes out the top. Pump it to see if new vessel is needed.2ft Rubber hose from blow off to condensation £20
Optional
Replace the gutter £50 or rotate outside pipe 180 and extend £25
Glue some pipe clips in£10
Couple of bits of timber in attic for big clips£30. board inside shed to hide floating pipe. £40. give or take depending on customer attitude and how skint they say they are(looking in the fridge helps)
there is two ways off doing it correct way ( expensive) or work with what you have by adding external expansion vessel and make it safe to use that installation is really poor I am suprised is been signed by the gas engineer that's shocking thanks Allen for sharing this information with us.
With all that is wrong with this boiler, I would have a look to see if it would be fitted somewhere else in the house and due to the age of the boiler, a new boiler would be best, If no better location can be found then an upgrade to comply with regulations would be required.
Hi👋 great video clip
Alan ,not sure of exact model but it looks like an Isis or icos These are possible the worst boilers ever produced .we looked after a lot of Ideal Isis and regularly had to replace many off them after only five years. They are a money pit The heat exchanger leaks water and they rot around the exit connection of the sump onto the trap .Do not waste your clients money on even trying to repair it .We striped and serviced them every year correctly but still the reliability was poor .It may be cheaper to move the boiler down stairs if you have somewhere suitable for it .
♦ The PRV can be teed to the return at the boiler. Then a *2 bar* PRV can be at a more convenient position near an outside wall, taken from the rad circuit. Vaillant make an expensive kit for this. Just buying a 2 bar PRV saves a lot of money.
♦ The gas pipe maybe sized OK. Just test it.
♦ The gas meter. It is obvious he extended the inlet. In general, an inlet *can* be extended, as long as the main control valve is still in place, with the inlet extension well clipped (school board clips) and another control valve at the meter position, well strapped, with a label stating where the main valve is. No running through void spaces, under floors, must be sleeved through walls, extended gas pipe wrapped in gas tape. Why does the meter need to be back in the house? The vid does not show the gas main point of entry. Where is it? BES supply the ECVs, etc. Best to use some iron short pieces at the new meter position to avoid inexperienced meter readers from wrongly reporting it. They will then think it has not been extended.
♦ The flue pipe can be clipped properly using wood batons across the rafters and proper clips. Not a big job.
♦ The electrics should be properly checked and made safer to suit. Fit a room stat if one not fitted.
♦ No TRVs on all rads.
♦ Also, fit a filter on the return.
♦ A Grundfos Condlift condensate pump can take the condensate *and* PRV outlet pipe. Interlocked with boiler supply, so if pump fails the boiler is switched out. £56 from Screwfix.
I assume you cut the boiler off leaving a notice.
That is just to get it up to current regs. Then the water system needs looking at. Full bore maintap? Dedicated 22mm pipe to combi inlet from maintap? Wondervalves on all taps to balance the H & C supply?
That’s been roughed In by some cowboy, I’d recommend new boiler, if in same position upgrade gas, condense, run PRV out, and obviously replace flue correctly with adequate supports.
What boiler would you install?
Worcester greenstar 30i or 25i depending on on the property requirements
Well for me it would also depend of the condition of the boiler inside, if all was OK I would put right all the faults you've found and carry on with the original boiler, but, remembering those boilers from years ago they were a bit of a pig so.. depends,
With me it would all depend on the customer too and what their financial situation is at the time, some may not be able to go for a new install.
Thanks.
In this situation I would ...............................RUNAWAY 🤣🤣🤣
What boiler would you install?
L F fault won't be expansion vessel fault its flame failure, possibly L9 fault once pressure drops to 0 and boiler overheats. Isars are designed for 15mm connections and as long as there is sufficient flow it's fine. Lazy and dangerous prv termination though.
Jonathan Schofield It has LF fault and faulty expansion vessel 👍
BG smart energy expert fitted those meters, hope they left paperwork for the boiler and pipework issues :/
Good point. Wonder if they went up in loft.
Definitely should have picked up on the flue support. But the meter engineers @bg are only given a very limited scope of training when it comes to appliance checks. Also yes that inlet pipework on the regulator is shocking 😅
First time I've ever seen rigid pipework used to supply a J42 regulator, wheres the mcv and flexi anaconda
The flex wouldn't reach the ECV so has to be hard piped.
I’d recommend a new boiler in a much better location as the amount of work that needs to be done will be easier to fit a new boiler in a better location with less hassle
What boiler would you install?
I’d put in a baxi 800 love fitting them and they are easy to work on baxi are always helpful to if you ever get issues
Replace the boiler with a viessmann vitodens 100w
Bracket all pipe work correctly
Plumb condense to a drain
Replace wiring
Also upsize gas pipe 👍🏼
Replaced with a Vaillant, condensate and prv run into a condendsate pump and pumped externally from there (to somewhere). New gas run would be a pain. But i'm service only so just taking a guess 😂
Baxi 630all day long. Gas meter pipework looks nasty also! Definitely looks like a 'combi special Saturday job"!
Absolutely Fine 4 sure
Keep the old boiler and update make safe every fault my self and definitely get rid of the cable ties
Would be costly to repair,
@@AllenHart999 it will be but still be a possible saving for the customer at the same time and at this time of year that's what we all want
Blow off and condensate pumped ithrough attic into soil pipe. New gas pipe also through attic.
would you repair boiler or replace?
@@AllenHart999 I would recommend replacement. Nice little main 30.
What about fitting a boiler in the outhouse close to the gas meter
Maybe, What boiler would you install?
Allen Hart I do like a Valiant
@@AllenHart999
♦ The Navien combi can be fitted outside, so inside a cold uninsulated outhouse is fine.
♦ As the combi may be inside the outhouse any combi would do with an Intergas 36 kW as first choice - built like tanks. The Rapid is cheap enough being solid and reliable. Best value for money of any combi on the market.
John Burns I wouldn’t install an intergas personally
@@AllenHart999
*Reasons?*
If it was my own it would be new boiler relocated. I’d quote customer for make good and replace and let them decide.
What boiler would you install?
There is nothing wrong with the centralised position.
For PRV I would recommend combining with condens pipe.
reshad taeb If PRV terminates in plastic pipe it must be high temp pipe and fitting, so the whole waste would need replacing
You could tundish PRV & combine with condense or bathroom waste possibly!?
Probably wouldn't share the overflow pipe with potential 70+ degree water release.
Not sure why you said the pipework at the meter wasnt supported. Its mounted on a meter bracket with rigid pipe both sides. Cant get more supported than that.
The pipe is floating in mid-air, Thanks.
Yeah and theres no gas tap either. 🤣
Well Allen, it’s a 1970s council house which looks to have had warm air central heating when new so reverting back to that could be an option if the customer would like that?
Not sure if these had warm air, What boiler would you install?
Allen Hart Gotta be a Baxi or Viessmann! But looking at the roof ridge vent them types of houses have warm air. I do look forward to future videos on this job! 😎
New boiler, (Baxi 800), new location, and above all else......get an Allen Hart to do the job, sorted.
I am too busy 😂😂😂
Yes it isn't a good install. .but I think all the faults can be rectified no need for a new boiler.
secure all the electrics , take flute through the wall and put an expansion vessel on it. Take pipe outside bit higher above gutter so it can run down that to that drain?
The boiler is in the middle of the house.
@@AllenHart999 secure flute to roof beams or relocate boiler might best option?
Baxi platinum , can you not connect blow off into condy pipe with a air break so you can see it if it goes off similar to the alpha boiler with combined blow off/ condensate cheers 👍
Viessmann could be a good choice on this?
Allen Hart yeah mate a would go with viessman good boilers with long warranty keep up the good work am a gas engineer from Glasgow 👍
AR all day long. Turn off appliance and either sort out faults or fit new boiler. Think i would go for the latter
What boiler would you install?
All that needs is more Cable ties . Cable tie the gas And the wires . That will be fine LOL
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I would fit a euroterm boiler.(30kw) Coz they cheap and give seven year warranty.
Update gas and prv
Sort out wiring etc
What a brilliant installation 🤥
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quote for remedial work and quote for new boiler see what customer wants
What boiler would you install?
Allen Hart Hi Allen I am not an installer just someone with an interest and a DIYer but the baxi that you have would be my goto boiler I think (btw I know my limits and leave any gas work to you gas safe lads)
Move the boiler in the loft that flue length looks way too much, extend the pipes in the cupboard up to loft all clipped up. Re run gas and change boiler
What boiler would you install?
Hi Allen thanks for the reply. Either stag or vailliant echo tech pure/ plus and obviously rate kw to flow rate on cold. Because no doubt that hasn’t been taken in to account. That install tho 🤭
How can these previous installers be called gas SAFE ???
I would cap gas and notify suppliers. Never seen incoming into governor like that.
looks like somebody has been playing around and relocated it in some way, all been plaster-boarded out behind it and from opposite side and meters all mounted on wood that isn’t even against the wall and other side looks like it’s a porch. So maybe they moved the wall to make their porch larger and needed to move the meter. Even the isolation valve from mains isn’t visible
Loads like that round Leeds. It's a stupid design the ecv is on the other side of where the meter is. Nothing wrong with it and hasnt been messed with.
I was half expecting the flue to terminate in the loft. I would just charge £350 and rectified the issues
stip what would you do with the blow off ?
Shocking..... The filling loop should be on the return too
Should? mmmm Convention says put the filling loop on the return. As it is only used to fill the system it can be anywhere.
LF fault could be the rectification lead damaged or probe bent, spark electrode bent. That’s the common ones.
Could use a high temperature pump for the pressure relief pipe.
It needs a lot of work. Might be better to relocate the boiler if possible. It’s hard to say without actually being there.
Needs a lot to sort it, Would you repair or replace?
Allen Hart think I’d recommend replacement but give customer all the options.
Run Run
Run Run
How can some folk sleep at night knowing they've 'installed' that shite!🤬
Relocation & a new boiler, in my opinion
Agree. Which boiler would you choose?
I’d report the person who did the installation. They must have been a proper Cowboy 🤠
where’s the ecv on the meter ?
Sort out upstream gas supply. Fit new boiler in the loft.
What boiler would you install?
Scrap it ... relocate to the outhouse.. sort out that dodgy meter set up.
Not possible unfortunately
New boiler in the outhouse?
It seems there's a certain time of day for suggesting outhouse boilers
new boiler in the gas meter cupboard
What boiler would you install?
@@AllenHart999 Don't know to be honest mate, I'm hoping you might tell us... I'm only an apprentice and do commercial stuff which is why your videos are great for me to pick up some of the domestic side 👍
Brilliant! Crap boiler and crap installation.
You are not wrong
What boiler would you install?
loved it 👏❤
Is the filling loop pipe meant to be left connected when not in use?
@Adam Wood I thought that, if i identified correctly on the video :)
It must be a cowboy that fitted that in that’s why some plumbers get a bad name
The customer said it was a plumber but not sure. Do you think it was a plumber that installed it?
@@AllenHart999 no plumber would do that with cable ties, surely?. Gash for even a bad DIY job.
@allanhart can you do a video on how to connect a bdr91 thermostat to a vitodens 050w?
Not at the moment, Sorry.
Not worth repairing & fixing the problems. Few hundred quid more for replacement with warranty.
New combi boiler and relocate to new location.
What boiler would you install?
Depending on what the budget is Main or Vaillant
It's Christmas You would offer to fit a new boiler where the gas meter is and all FREE because AH is the best 😎
What boiler would you install?
Some people are fucking animals but keeps us in work 😅
At 7 yo and an ideal better to replace than repair keep in same position combine blow off with condensate pump. To all saying AR doesn't exist anymore.
Thank you for the comments.
Dont touch those boiler, replacement or I walk away. They are the most dangerous boiler ever made. Used to look after 100s of them on contract, one day you could service the boiler and then a week later the main burner box gasket (the orange one that you cant maintain) would split and leak POC. It's pretty much impossible to predict when that seal could go.
Not worth the risk of reputation or your gas safe.
ideal vogue or baxi 800
Move house...
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Beauty❗
Crikey! That meter installation... Where's the ecv ? I've never seen copper straight into regulator . That whole thing ain't right surely. And as for the flue ........
Bg make engineers pipe copper rather than steel unfortunately 🙁
@@seangribbin6329 don't look right at all. Glad I don't work for bg 😁
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from 🇧🇷
Run a fekkin mile and give em a rediculous cover price 😖
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you are going to put it in loft is my guess.
What boiler would you install?
Rip the full install out and start again
What boiler would you install?
Allen Hart probably a Vaillant
Not worth the money to repair/update that pile of crap. New boiler Baxi or one with combined prv and condense. run prv and condense into a pump and terminate internally
Thanks.
i thought this was going to be a video about jo swinson.
Viessmann 050 or 100
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