Fused - Glued Suit vs. Half-Canvas vs. Full - Canvas Jacket Construction - Get the Best Value Suits
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
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01:19 Glued/Fused Interlinings
So what are the advantages apart from it being cheap? Well, it does the job, it gives the garment a three-dimensional shape.
The problems, however, are manifold. First of all, because it is glued, there's not much flexibility in the garment and you can feel it because it feels less comfortable and it does not stretch when you move. Usually, you do get a chest piece that helps to form that three-dimensional shape that looks very masculine, however, in a garment of that category, you usually get something more inexpensive such as a cheap cotton or low-quality wool blend.
03:24 Full canvas
First of all, the interlining is sewn to the fabric and as such, it is flexible. So when you move, it moves with you, it's comfortable, there are no pressure points, over time, the garment actually gets better. On top of that, you can really decide what kind of stiffness you go for. For example, the jacket I'm wearing in the video is extremely soft, it feels more like a sweater and it has some structure when I stand still but if you see the wrinkles here, they just stay like that.
07:20 Half canvas
It basically takes the best of both worlds in a sense that it takes a good chest piece that is sewn and lasts for a while with the cheap part of the glue to keep the cost down. It's called half canvas but in fact, it's more like a 2/3 canvas with 1/3 of a glued interlining.
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4:08 horsehair. So that's the strand that I felt poking out of my jacket. Glad to know that my grandpa's sport coat that is now mine is well made.
Congrats, Mr Schneider! Very important video for classic style enthusiasts. Have been wondering for years why no youtuber ever talked about this. The first one had to be the king himself.
In the next video, maybe you could give some tips do finding of jackets are fused/canvassed in off-the-rack and MTM situations. :-)
Fashion Professor once again I thank you for a very informative video indeed as I have made application of the things you have shared throughout your many videos my personal knowledge has grown by leaps and bounds I shop with more confidence I pull together my wardrobe in a more assured manner whether it be for a formal or casual outing thanks for providing the videos and all the hard work and finally if I may be allowed to ask when do you plan to do another interview I greatly appreciate those as well!
Thank you, I've not really ever understood the differences here. Really appreciate this video. M
That picture at 00:25 made me 'oh damn'
Loved the vid, thank you for sharing
I was looking for this and have been searching all over the Internet. Thank you Mr.Rapahel!
The only time i get glued jackets, is when I find it in a 2nd hand clothing store for really cheap. For example I got one for 8$ the other day, which fit me perfectly.
k thanks not
Great illustrations! Thank you for the concise lesson on suit construction! I always look forward to your next video!
I hear that in today's market people like the drape of a half-canvas, high-end glues exist that don't bubble, and cheap full canvas suits sometimes might include glue! So really it comes down to use, and perhaps climate
i love this guy
Would love if you made a video on how to clean leather shoes (like a gent of course). Love your work
Pay a servant to do it.
I recently discovered this, just a couple of days before i was about to visit a cheap tailor for an MTM suit. now that i know, i will save some money to go to a better tailor to buy a quality MTM suit with full canvas. I'm also quite interested in the whole bespoke suit tailoring process, but since im a student, 1500€ is the most that i can lash out for a suit and i can still expect quality and fit.
pikkuhakki2 you can go thrift store to easily get a suit made by hand with less than 200 euros.
Yitao Zhang noway in heaven. i might get a good dress shirt for that money. I live in finland and since tailor is a rare job, it is respected and expensive to get a fully bespoke suit.
pikkuhakki2 I live in Paris so there is a few thrift stores with amazing prices. However the ideal place is London where you can get a larger range of sartorial clothing. You may also find many disappeared brands and tailor house in thrift stores of these two cities.
Yitao Zhang i really want to try a handmade suit. Could you give me some good thrift stores in Paris?
Chez ammar is a really surprising store.
The choice of suit (or almost any item for that matter) doesn't always come down to whether or not one can afford the item. If for example the buyer plans to wear the suit at most five or six times a year, then buying an expensive, full canvas, professionally tailored suit would be the wrong move in my opinion. In this example, wearing a less expensive suit doesn't make the wearer cheap, it makes them both sensible and rational. It is often more appropriate to choose the less expensive option. Spending a disproportionate amount on an item of clothing can be viewed as obscene or garish; a far worse trait to risk carrying with you than that of someone who chooses to spend their money on things that matter. That being said, spending a disproportionate amount of any kind, be it greater or lesser, than those in your company can have the same result.
Not really. If you want to save up for a bespoke suit, or just get a cheap off the rack one, either way it's up to you. You shouldn't let other people tell you what to do. If you want a bespoke suit and you can save up for one, go for it.
thanks again
Here i am with my 'deconstructed' jacket from Reiss. It should be £279, but gotnit new from a charity shop at £6 so happy whatever way it comes!
I hear good things about their clothing
6:57 I think the machine lapel looks a lot better.
Hello Sven,
I am from Denmark, and I normally watch all your videos.
I have seen all the videos where you describe the difference in quality between an expensive suit and a cheap one. But could you make some videos where you tell which brand make good quality suits and which doesn't? Same goes for the quality of shirts, ties, shoes and other garments. It's confusing with the huge amount of brands and tailors out there.
Me too.I am from Serbia.Small world
sven i am 14 i own 10 full canvas suits made in itaily i love wearing them they make me look more elegant thanks to you good sir
mestwate gelagle sounds like you got too much money. Gg tho
Can someone say "rich parents?"
I'm 3 years old and have 40 full canvas suits. After finishing this sentence I just grew out of 30 of them. They were made by my servant, mestwate.
I had an interview that was announced to me short notice and I was saving up for bespoke because that's what I wanted but I need a suit there and then and didn't have time to source a good suit so I was forced to buy a cheap off the rack glued canvas polyester suit for the interview. I'm stuck with that until I can afford a bespoke suit and until it's actually done...
Great video thanks for the info. That blue '60's jacket looks superb!
P. W. Herman has gotten more educational. +1 like.
Great illustrations!
Way to go, Sven. Great program.
I love your suit man, looks great!
Very helpful video, thanks.
Trying to decide between half and full canvas. Seems most share your opinion but I’ve encountered one designer who says half canvas is more versatile. Your take on versatility? I’d love to find side by side photos.
An editorial comment. Coming from a modest background, “cheap” sounds snooty IMO. And as quality and cost don’t correspond perfectly, maybe consider “inexpensive” and “low quality” or “poorly made”.
Between cheap and inexpensive I'll choose the inexpensive.
Hi Sven,
Is there also a video about unconstructed/unstructured suits? Does it mean the suit is just glued/fused with no canvas?
I've been contemplating getting them but I don't know what the real difference is besides the fit being more casual.
Rafa, great videos, congratulations!!
can you make a video on how to buy jackets at vintage stores? what to look for, how to tell a cheap fabric from a nice one etc?
Well done
Love the videos
Good video. Mid range suits in the 700 to 1200 dollar rage last years and look good. Bespoke suits are a little over the top at 2 to 5000.
Hello there. Very informative video. Is it okay if we used it on our website and social media for informational purposes?
This is not related to the suit construction but fabric. I have a Prince of Wales linen wool blend suit that I love, but has pilling in 4/5 areas. Don’t want to cut it out or shave it to make it worst. What would you recommend ?
How does canvassing relate to structured and unstructured tailoring and lining? Can a fully canvassed jacket be unstructured and have no lining? 🤔
I have purchased some linen material that I really like and I have committed to making a suit from it. I have a pattern but I could use some advice choosing materials for say the chest piece and lining etc.
Very informative
A lot of made to measure suit companies here in japan offer full canvas for free
There is a few tailors that I used who prefer half canvas instead of full canvas, claiming that half-canvas is more versatility, and more modern. I wonder who is right ??
The suits u wearing looks excellent but the shoulders are not up ask the tailor to make them fit
The grey double breasted suit you wear is quite exquisite. Where did you get it from?
Judging by the the armpits and perfect fit - considering he has unevenly sloped shoulders, my best guess would be bespoke
It's gorgeous. Good pattern matching, too.
From God
@@cowboyhank456 bespoke != Non-brand. His question is still valid
@@Mr-R.R.
Obviously, but I don't see any details to clue me in on which specific tailor made it, so this was my best guess.
Suits are where tailoring meets upholstery.
Just one more example of why the GG is a cut above the rest.
Just wondering, have you wore pants down there?
what brands are Fully canvassed, "off the rack"?
Just bought a blue Hartford model suit from suit supply last week, wore it for Saturday night out and was not disappointed, beautiful suit with a light summer wool, silk, and linen blend fabric. Cost me $1,100 usd which I thought was impressive as most full canvas suits from a tailor start close to 2,000.
Raphael, I understand that this is probably quite a vague question that is hard to answer, but do you feel as though there is a "sweet spot" when it comes to buying suits, i.e where you can buy a suit of sufficiently high quality at a "best value for money" price? I'm currently in the position where I have to wear suits at my job, however I'm not earning enough to be able to dress as well as I'd like, but I'd like to get the best that I can within reason. Do you feel there is a general price bracket in where to look, or a bare minimum of features that I should be looking for?
You can go vintage if it's available in your area. You'll find plenty of half canvas off the rack suits, pick one that fits well with your shoulders and do alterations and upgrades however you wish
Is there any way to repair suits that have become unfused?I have a blazer that fits me great that is showing blisters and I hate to get rid of it .
Great video, thumps up.
Hey Raphael did you ever visit the "Opernball" in vienna? It semes like the perfect place toembrace your style. And as i recall you speak german right? So that would not be a problem too.
Another informative video, kudos. Are there any Minnesotan based clothiers that you'd suggest to buy from?
Thxs in adv.
I'm teaching myself to make fancy clothing. Give me a bit
Does anybody know the fabric being used for 2:29?
What jacket is that at 1:52? Beautiful
i still dont get how to discerrn it....
I don't think I've seen a manufacturer mention the type of canvas implemented. Secondly, what is the approximate entry price-point of full-canvased jackets?
$500 with SuitSupply
i a littile bit confused are canvas and lining the same thing for example i have jacket with half lining from silk are these lining the same with half canvas or different topic
No. Canvassing is the interlining between the lining and the fabric.
Does Hugo Boss makes most of their suits glued?
I also heard about "floating canvas". Could anyone tell me what that is?
It's the same as full canvas. Floating means it is flexible and moves with you just like I explained in the video.
What about unstructured?
There is just no interlining so it must be tailored perfecly to do not show imperfections
I can see your disgust when you only think of a fused suit, let alone to talk about it. :))
If a man wants a bespoke suit, he should go the full monty and pay for full canvassed instead of wasting his precious money on a half-baked bespoke version of it. It's not that much cheaper anyway and it is still... glued. What a word in conjunction with the word suit! How can that go together anyway? If one accepts glue in his jacket for the sake of saving money, then buy a fully fused jacket. That should do. Half-canvassed is like ... want a Ferrari but, please, not that gas guzzling, because I can't afford it.
Beetlejuice killed the striped suit
Go big or go home
This is not entirely accurate. The fusing you are showing is not th canvas fused to the chestpiece, it is the fabric stabilizer fused to the fabric. Even some highend brands use this on the lighter fabrics for both half or full canvased jackets. The lapel roll has more to do with how the lapel is pressed that with what's inside. A high quality fusing does not come off and is lightweight and confortable. Would you wear a fullcanvas linned suit? Visit a high-end suit factory!
How is that machine expensive at $100,000? Aren't each handmade suits at around $10,000 anyways?
dipro001 handmade suits cost between 1200e in Italy to 8000e in Savile Row. Average price is probably in the 2500e (3000$) range.
Buy cheap, look cheap.
It's impressive how terribly agonizing his voice is, it was hard to concentrate even though the content is splendid.
I dont trust this guys opinion. Hes said things like " YOU CANT WEAR TEAM JERSEYS AND BE A GENTLEMAN" L0L
Sexually repressed dude
Suits are where tailoring meets upholstery.