Hey Josh, would you be willing to cover the following topics in a video? -Navagating Cat SIS -Cat falsh file encrypter, decryptor and what its uses are
Well, guess I’ma going to drain my oil/Lucas mix in my IDI 7.3. Didn’t see any benefits and one fella at a diesel shop said he has seen engines that used Lucas have a weird internal slime that was near impossible to get out.
@@Mikael5732 ive been testing that slime topic since like 1992, for some reason it just keeps coming back..... but my motor on that car has over a million miles..... mercedes diesel no matter what that motor wont die. dont get rid of the slime
Sir. Between the age of 7 and 10, I put 1.3 million rotations on the Lucas gear display at my pops fav auto parts store. I can assure you this stuff works…
Based on thermodynamic and fluid mechanics principles motor oil loses viscosity over time and use (shear thinning) so a thicker additive prevents against thermal breakdown and extends the life of the oil. Saved y’all 27 minutes of y’all’s life
I spent 47 years in the trucking industry and aside from driving company trucks I owned 5 of my own...1 Cummins and 4 Cats that totally accumulated 2.5 million miles. All had oil and filter changes every 10,000 miles or 250 hrs and all were on Chevron 15-40. In that time none of them required o/hauls or bearing changes. In other words no additives or snake oils...just good quality oil and filter changes on a regular basis.The cheapest investment in my equipment was lubes and filters.
I can't agree more. I've rebuilt lots of engines with over a million miles that ran just normal oil and many of them have bearings that barely had a scratch on them.
2.5 M miles divided by 5 trucks equals 500,000 miles per truck. Since the early '80s, that mileage is nothing to brag about, as, for example, my brother's 2 trucks powered by Cummins N14s achieved 3M miles before inframe.
@@cwj9202 Thank you for showing the math. If he would have used Lucas from the time they were at 300,000 miles, then he probably could have gotten a million miles out of them. People don't realize how oil works. The more worn an engine is, the thicker the oil needs to be to fill the gaps.
Only additives I go for are Zinc and/or Moly in flat-tappet gassers, and certain flush agents when having some issues, particularly BG109. Otherwise, just run good oil, good filters, on good intervals. That aside, every HEUI system I've seen personally with Lucas has had.... issues... that an oil change without the Lucas solved.
I am a firm believer in Lucas. I have an 01 navigator that I bought with around 126000 on it. It was poorly maintained and had a slight knock coming from the timing cover my guess on this was a sticking timing chain tensioner got it home and changed the oil and used one quart of Lucas in place of one quart of oil the knock went away after about 50 miles or less I just drove it around town a couple of days and before the knock went away which really surprised me. I change my oil every 5000 miles and use a quart of Lucas on every oil change I now have 225000 miles on eng and sounds good as new and runs like a champ.
Anecdotal evidence is the lowest form of evidence. If a 10-dollar bottle of additive could improve engine life and increase performance etc, then every manufacturer would recommend it. That would mean less recall and warranty work on their end. When developing an engine, they run prototypes for thousands of miles through a myriad of conditions; all while testing oil samples throughout the range. In the end, they typically conclude that x oil is best. Also, you can reference the API label on each container of oil and it will tell you what specifications it meets. In a nutshell, oil additives are pointless. Do your scheduled maintenance as per the manufacturer and your engine will live a long happy life.
@@wazup3333 so you lead an engineering team at an auto manufacturer? Vehicles are judged on reliability, and it behooves companies to produce the most reliable vehicle.
Interesting; I had some Lucas I was planning to use with my 01 Xterra, but I just cleaned and rebuilt the engine after a head gasket and timing chain swap, and I did the tensioners too but it still have a slight chain rattle for the half second before the pump pressurizes the tensioners on cold startup. I am using STP full synthetic 5W-30 for the break-in oil (I got ~4Qts for free thanks to finding a sealed 5Qt container with a damaged handle). It would have all leaked out if I didn't stop for it, so at least now it serves a good purpose before getting properly recycled. Otherwise, it's been running fine for the last 15 miles. About to drain the oil and drop the filter to check for forbidden glitter, then it's fresh Mobil 1 and a fresh Mobil 1 filter, and since it's cold rn I'm going to rely solely on the additive package of the Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 full synthetic and see if that improves things on cold startups.
Been using Lucas oil treatment for over 25 years in everything I own cars trucks lawnmowers anything that uses oil in it and have Never had engine failure in anything period I'm a mechanic by trade over 40 years in field
One 300k miles and one 500k miles v8 work vehicles in my personal company. No snake oil ever in either of them. We have used it in warn out 40+ year old Oldsmobile diesel I owned that ate massive amounts of oil
Did you determine these facts with a scanner and actual read out of these items that you're mentioning or did you do it by the convenience cages that are not completely accurate on your dashboard.. Not criticizing just asking
they make great stuff but id not use in on newer cars after 2010 iv seen it make oil to think cause rod knock but on older engine run it in every thing
I'm currently running it in my 17 ram just to try and keep the engine together for as long as I can at this point it developed piston slap about 30000 ago hence why I'm running Lucas because I can't justify the cost of replacing the motor that costs more then the truck is worth
@@AKoehnFishing-xf4wj I bought it with 7000k I have done full synthetic every 5000k with OEM filters started to notice a problem at 110000 found out it needs a motor at 112000
I've been a fleet tech for over 40 years. All our oils are sent for analysis. We have been using power up additive since the mid 90's. The results are impressive, wear metals all went down, thus we've increased the change intervals and prolonged rebuilds.
It may work for you. Good thing is you do oil analysis. Another operator may work in cold climates like Alaska or Canada. Their oil requirements may be different to yours. Cheers
This video is totally worthless, he has no clue about oils , wear , what breaks down . This seems like a low keys jab at a product for whatever reason. I’m also a fleet tech and oil samples tell all and theses additives for sure help .
@@Adscam I'm not a fan of Lucas products but this product's purpose isn't to thicken oil like he claims. These oil additives do so many other things he doesn't touch on. False equivilancy ALERT!! Thicker oil isn't stickier. Those are two different qualities. Especially in cold climates you want sticky oil that will cling to your cam lobes, other valve train parts and especially cylinder walls.
@MrFatcat23 He didn't say it was sticky just because it's thicker; as he pointed out, Lucas has additives in it to increase the tackiness, or stickiness. So it is in fact stickier, because it is in fact stickier. In this video, the property of stickiness has no reference to the viscosity being thicker, he refers to it as an independent property. Furthermore; as he pointed out, regular engine oil clings to the bearings just fine, even in a heated shop, it will cling even better in colder temps due to the natural viscosity increase, you don't need anything other than regular oil to prevent dry start-up, and as shown in this video, isn't really a thing, even after sitting for a couple weeks, in a heated shop. Anybody who has ever pulled a bearing cap knows there is a suction there, due to the close tolerance and the oil, which in turn retains the oil, even on engines that have been sitting for years, there will still be suction on any bearing cap within normal wear limits, even the thinnest oil WIll NOT, EVER, drain out of the bearings, unless they are already wasted. Do not run thicker oil in the winter, especially not in the winter. In Montana, it is necessary to switch to a thinner oil in diesels, typically from a 15w-40 to a 5w-40 if you want it to start easily and reliably on really cold days which can get well below zero degrees F.
I use this product in diesel boat engines.I have to say it does exactly what it states on the bottle. Boat is left up for long periods and top end retains a film of oil.
I used Lucas for 12 years in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. I started using it the oil change after the warranty ended. This was an eye opener for me. At the end of the cars life it had 550000 miles on it. I never had a problem with the motor. (The transmission mounts rotted out) Lucas is a great product. The main thing it does is holds the oil on reciprocating parts. You aren’t using only Lucas. I was using it at about 25% Lucas 75% oil. It doesn’t thicken the oil to 60 weight. I used 5W30 and it was probably 7W30 when added. It definitely works tho.
I'm running a 2013 hyundai accent and honestly found after multiple runs of the car between oil changes and multiple samples taken of the oil, that thickening the oil has very little effect, running a 10W40 (auto shops recommendation) with oil additive I was running a steady 6.7L of fuel consumption per 100km on the highway, dropped it down to a 5W30 to test another oil product and was running 6.2L per 100km on the highway, then after fitting my oil intercooler, catch can, cold air intake and LED headlights, plus getting the transmission serviced, I've ran the manufacturer recommended 5w20 SAE oil with no additives and fuel consumption dropped way down to 5.4 average litres per 100kms. Point being it doesn't matter what additives you run you're always going to suffer on fuel economy, and unless it's a PTFE or LDDP additive it's not worth the added fuel costs. That said I have occasionally ran lucas upper cylinder lubricant, 1 quart will last me about 20 fuel tanks worth and you can definitely feel the effect it has on the throttle response.
Well said, that what I was about to say EXACTLY......AND it does not mean the Lucas oil IS preventing oil to pass through tight spaces I'm POSITIVE THE OTHER PARTS or aspects of the oil does pass through 5w-20 or 10-w30 tight areas of the engine... by him saying Lucas might prevents that I HIGHLY DOUBT THAT. ( and is a BOLD stament when there no physical proof or test.That would mean you used 100% of Lucas oil 😂😅 so take your pick what is accully working. My bet is there working in unison thinker oil stays on top while thinner oil passes through in theory. But what I have witnessed many time noise is reduced and Lucas oil cold cranking definitely prevents DRY starts. My dad's 1991 Ford Ranger XLT put Lucas the second time the oil changes quieted and ran much much smother but of course did a full tune up aswell. Taping was reduced dramatically. When the engine really Warmed up even quieter. I used it for 20 years. It just made sense DRY COLD cranking #1 problem with ANY VEHICLE when regular oil sat too long. I hear that noise every time I start my car with out Lucas..
@konstantinostselios1129 that was a good one!🤣....but I had ford complete opposite not like the mighty toyota, still, the 91 ford ranger still RUNS SMOOTH .... for now😅😅.....Lucas help that noisey ford
I probably wouldn’t use this in a newer car but it does work pretty well on worn out engines. I had a car that started burning a quart of oil every 400 miles around 225,000 miles. I started using a similar product and started burning a quart about every 2,000 miles. When the car finally quit for electrical issues that weren’t worth fixing the engine was still running strong at over 275,000. This stuff is great for keeping an engine that’s on its last leg going when it’s not worth putting more money into the car.
They have a synthetic for newer low Viscosity engines, I run a 1.5 quarts in my 5.7l Tundra (it's 9ish quarts withe filter). The nest thing about it is that it sticks to all the import surfaces, 95% of all wear in a a motor is cold dry starts and this stops it.
@@ravenshrike synthetic is for synthetic oil. Heavy duty is for reg oil. I live in fl and it gets so hot here the oil breaks down so much faster. Lucas heavy duty oil helps keep everything coated nice. My uncle had a 2000 Grand Marquis he always went to the service intervals for fluid changes well it says 100,000 Mi for the transmission fluid not here in Florida should change it around $30,000 miles or whenever the oil starts to change color
Since oil breaks down it makes sense that adding a thickener to worn oil should restore viscosity. I do use Lucas but try not to dump a cold blob down where it could clog the oil feed. I try to do it on a warm day and add a little then some oil then some more. I'd be concerned using it in freezing temperatures but it's hot here. I also only use a little in my BMW which likes thin oil for the vanos. I usually only add about half what they recommend. It's thick and has to have more drag. Like running in molasses. An ounce of protection is worth a pound of cure. If you have low oil pressure and the light is on at idle I thought it needs pressure or oil won't make it downstream. Like a finger over a hose. You do make a great point that more pressure doesn't mean it's making it either. It could be blocked. Cooling can come from reducing blow by. Combustion pressure can carry heat past rings and seals. Sealing those gaps keeps heat moving. It's good to remember that this goo is diluted at least four to one in oil and heated over a hundred degrees. It's going to be thinned out. It would be interesting to dilute one ounce Lucas in four ounces of oil and see how thick it is. Then freeze it and heat it and compare to pure oil.
If you have never used it. Do a oil change put it in a milk jug. Next oil change add Lucas, and do the following oil change and milk jug that... Shake at the same time and rest aside. Compare them after time.. Rather have the lube then none. Used in all my vehicles... Plow trucks and all... Not saying the be all end all but another ounce of protection..
44 years in trucking, never had a new truck it's always been used. I have used Lucas for many, many years. In engine's, Trans, and rear ends. Never had any problems. I do change engine oil every 10,000, and air filters every 4 months, Trans and rear ends every year. One thing you missed and failed to bring to light was dirty air makes dirty oil and increases engine ware and performance. At the present I have a c-16 I still practice 10,000 air filters at 4 months. You think about it 1 gallon of Lucas to 9 gallons of oil 10w40. You also failed to recommend not operating that engine till it got to proper operating temperature. I'm sure you are a very good mechanic I have watched your videos and will continue. Don't ever stop thinking out of the box, don't get what I call working with blinders on. 👍😉🇺🇲
Caterpillar does NOR recommend to use any oil thickeners, they are detrimental to healthy engine. The very small tolerances within moving parts in today's engines require thin oil, not a thick oil. I use Lucas only for my gear boxes, I completely stopped using it for the engine. Although diesel engines are not as sensitive to thicker oil as high end cars, those cars serve as perfect example of how thin oil makes all the difference. You cannot put thick oil in Lamborghini or Ferrari, you will destroy the engine. On lesser degree, that is also true with modern diesel engines. Yes, when your engine is worn out, the oil thickeners will extend the operational life of the engine a bit but you're not doing yourself any favors by doing that - for several reasons I'm not going to go into here. If what you do works for you, good. But I think to dismiss his arguments that are based on his expertise (because I'm pretty sure he knows little bit more about engines than you do) is not a good approach here. I learned the hard way that it's very wise to go by the engine manufacturer recommendations, and in this case, CAT or even Cummins warns to stay away from Lucas and other similar products. It WILL void the warranty in case of engine failure if the oil analysis shows you haven't been using just straight recommended oil (regardless of the Lucas claims about warranties not being void). You can use 8 air filters a year and change your oil each 5,000 miles if it makes you feel good - but who cares? That was not the point of his presentation.
Ever taken a motor apart after using Lucas? I have, and the stuff sticks to every metal surface in the motor..thereby reducing if not eliminating dry starts (starting an engine is the most damaging time for a motor)...Lucas definitely provided near total protection as far as lubrication..my system is 5.5 quarts, so I use an entire "quart" bottle. I have also used it for assembly...freaking awesome!!(I soak the bearings for 24 hours pre assembly).. it also blends with the oil you use, and thins the Lucas out...which in turns makes the Lucas flow easily.
or just get thicker oil.. when oil gets Hot it just runs down to the pan we put some in a 4cyl engine running a generator and ran it dropped the pan there was no difference in the way the oil was "sticking"
@@Mr_Meowingtons I call bs...I pulled apart a motor as far to using Lucas..I to was literally sticking like a thin glue...so go back and club up so you know what you're talking about
20:22 I will take a bit of issue with you here. On a badly worn engine the thicker velocity will reduce friction in the bearings, thereby reducing heat. I have seen highly significant differences in engine temps on older engines, especially with a heavier viscosity oil or STP.
I run belly dump and side dumps for construction in very harsh environments and I've been using Lucas for about 15 years, I bought my 98 Pete in 2011 with no history on the engine (3406E) still runs like a top 76psi (oil pressure oil pressure without Lucas was 74psi), doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. The one thing I really noticed is it did drop the oil temperature 20 degrees from 235/240 degrees down to 215 degrees, heat is what kills oil. What sold me on it was my friend races monster trucks with blown and alcohol injected engines and his bearings were shot after 4 to 6 races after using Lucas he could run a full season on one engine. (Alcohol washes the bearings and cylinders out) just my experience with it.
@@turbojetpowered8299 thicker does not reduce friction, only increases friction. Proof being, oil viscosity specifications of today and going into the future are lower than the specs of the past. These viscosity changes are for fuel mileage increases. Lower viscosity = increased fuel mileage. Lucas additive increases viscosity. Older vehicles being stored, Lucas does not help with either. Use a oil with high amounts of rust inhibitor additives and fogging oil. Everything on the bottle of Lucas is a lie.
Well hey I'm an rv hauler 12 yrs 3 Dodges/ Rams 2 million miles and I use 20 % every oil change 4,ooo - 7,8oo miles and no troubles with engine The shit is great , and that's why it sells. If it wasn't any good it never would've lasted decades at Wally World and O'Reilley's .Them guys that say all yer doing is THICKENIN UP YER OIL, THAT'S NONSENSE IT HAS STAYING POWER AND IT MIXES PERFECTLY W/ OIL TO COAT EVERYTHING IN AN ENGINE.
@@prosourceoil6380 that's not entirely true. you can't while using the same oil. Thicker oil takes longer to heat up, but pressure can still increase.
I got over 650,000 miles out of a 2000 Freightliner with a 3126. I never did an inframe, never blew the motor. No smoke, no blow by. I used Lucas, changed the oil every 8000 miles. The motor outlasted the truck itself. I sold the truck a year agao, and the motor was swapped into another truck that's still in daily use.
@@AdeptApe You always say that whenever I post about it. The Motor was unkillable. One extremely cold February morning I dropped a valve. I had a load on the truck that was going to Rhode Island to a Merchant Marine ship. It was their supplies.I had to be there by 8 am. I had no choice to try to make it. I drove almost 200 miles and made the delivery. I had the truck towed back to Brandford Freightliner in Connecticut and they repaired it. My buddy Adam, who owned a trucking company told me if that chain of events didn't kill the motor nothing will. He was right.
The THOMAS , DID YOU USE 20% LUCAS IN THE 3126, OR JUST COUPLE QUARTS ? JUST WONDERING........I HAVE 2014 CUMMINS 6.7 W/ 598,000 PULLING RVS AND DOING GREAT ON 20% LUCAS AND 15W 40. It is my third Dodge Ram , and second one w nearly over 600,000 miles
@@ronmoore3987 I had the 32-quart sump and used 1 gallon per oil change. Sometimes I would add Lucas if I was down a quart. I didn't burn much oil inbetween services which became shorter and shorter intervals as the miles added up. When it was new I would go 15 thousand miles in between oil changes, then 10,000, then 7,500 miles or every 4 months which ever came first. The engine still lives on in a dump/plow truck. I now have a 2018 M2106 with the Cummins 6.7B and that has 365,000 miles on it. I'm not using Lucas. I have been using Triax oil in it since it was new and I find that oil to be the best I have ever used.
I had a crappy little 2000 Geo Metro for a winter beater. It was smoking. I had to get a drive clean test and it failed. I put in Lucas Oil Stabilizer, drove it for a couple days, went back, re-tested - PASSED! Probably saved me a lot of money in repairs or at least let me keep driving it for another year until the front axle just freakin' broke.
There are far better assembly lubes they have quality additive packages though. When you learn how cheap Lucas actually is you'd think differently of their product, the marketing sells Lucas, especially the deceptive little gear display to captivate the oil ignorant consumer base
I love this video. When I got my first car ('91 Grand Am), it had a weak lifter, leaking valve-cover gasket that I stopped replacing after the second one (I carefully avoided looking near the head gasket because I didn't walk to know), burned oil, had worn piston rings. As a poor single lady, I kept Lucas in it, and drove it 14 years before someone gave me a 2009 Camry. I don't run Lucas in the Camry because I can keep up on the maintenance and repair.
We should also consider the fact that with high mileage the engine is not going to have the same tolerances so the engine is not going to be good as it was new.
A damn salesman ain't no Roadrunner like myself .Ya see there are thee office types and then there are the milemakers like me. I live a hard life and I use the shit.My truck don't sit in no damn garage every nite either
Project farms has tested many of the snake oil products and Lucas did not match up to regular oil. I suggest to anyone considering adding such products to your oil to watch his videos. He also tested different oils and there is a difference in oil quality. Thanks Josh.
@@charlienorton2337 sorry I didn't mean Lucas in particular but in snake oils as a whole. The 1 major claim they all make is better fuel efficiency. But motorkoat was the 1 that seemed to perform the best especially on the bearing wear test. And I am specifically talking about what they CLAIM their product will do.
@@charlienorton2337 I can attest that Lucas oil stabilizer works. It does reduce sludge. I had a prius that I always just put regular oil in, it was always black after 3500 miles. Added Lucas oil and after the 6 or 7 oil change I noticed that 3500 miles the oil still looked good (not as dark) and each time after that I went up 500 miles. Now I change at 5000 miles and that oil looked like my 3500 Mile oil back in the day. So yes. It definitely works
@@V8Lenny sorry but you are missing informed! Oil turning black is from the blowby in rings and valves.... not to clean your motor but to lubrication is the reason for oil.... better go back to school if your a mechanic.
I use in my truck with Detroit 14.0 Liter engine in each oil change I add 2 gallons of Lucas and 8 of regular oil, on one occasion I did the oil change with 32 thousand miles and never under oil pressure and only consumed less than a gallon in all that time, I would say that it works very well according to my experience
My 23 year old Mercedes SLK230 Kompressor with high miles is absolutely perfect for Lucas. It loves it! Never missed a beat. When I bought car, before it had Lucas in it, it was quite a loud, rough sounding engine. Added Lucas and within 50 miles it was literally purrrrrring like a cat!
These older Merc engines love thicker oil in general! I have a W140 300SE with the M104. When I bought it it had 10w30 in there. I switched to 15w50 and it runs smoother, quieter and the oil leak almost stopped completely (leaks are also common on these older Mercs 🤣)
the whole point of Lucas engine oil stabilizer is to provide a barrier between wear surfaces. the Lucas is both slippery and sticky at the same time.it will stop oil burning in old engines and increase the life span of new ones. ive been a licenced mechanic for 37 years and ive been putting Lucas in every engine i own for the last 20 years i even have it in the gear lube on my gold wing and my dodge truck it will increase gear life and will stop a sweaty seal from leaking. i should be the poster boy for Lucas. i also use the fuel treatment in my 94 cumins diesel. as far as im concerned todays oils are to thin and dont provide a proper barrier between moving parts, lucas is the answer ot this issue.
I stand behind lucas products they have been great to me! Every oil change i use lucas oil stabilizer..5 quarts royal purple full synthetic and 2 lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer for the 7 quarts i need every 3000 miles and wix filters only...Im at 240 thousand miles on a preeagle 5.7...never droped a lifter never had a engine failure..orginal oil pump and timing chain still..If its not doing anything well its worth the piece of mind that it is
You water down good oil with that crap? Geeze dude. Cheap oil every 5k miles of typical use will keep an old v8 going 250k miles very easily. That's literally not high miles for any engine besides Dodge
Ive been using Lucas in various engines over the years. Its hit or miss. Depends on the scenario. Gotta understand youre using it on a worn engine that just oil isnt cutting it and to try and stretch your pennies as far as you can. Ive had engines where it didnt make much of a difference, but ive had a few that would run nice with it, but if i tried running without, it would knock and have blow by. Even in the winter when its thick, youre only supposed to have up to 20 percent lucas to oil. It does take an extra moment to get it going, but the film strength and tackiness makes up for it in some cases. Ive seen it go both ways. Also, if your engine has alot of sludge built up, youre going to want to address that first because even with just straight oil thats a problem. Youve hit every concern right on the head with your video. It also does work nice for assembly lube or for coating and engine thats going to sit for a while. I put away a few engines and put a nice helping of lucas in the oil and ran it for alittle bit. Had good success. So if an engine is worn out beyond just going by the recommended oil interval, or you have one of those type of engines youre running on alcohol and pushing enough power to only get several runs out of before a rebuild, you might want to give it a go. On a lower mileage engine in good shape, you’re not doing any favors
I am a certified technician, certified by the parts store where I turned the crank on the gears display growing up. I saw it coat those gears. My eyes work. Millions of spins. I can assure you sir, it works.
I think many fail to realize many of these things lucas does is only beneficial to a really worn engine or engines with problems.lucas is great at putting a bandaid on a worn engine to allow u to drive it awhile longer. Thats where Lucas shines and it does work as ive seen it work with my own eyes over the course of my almost 25yrs as a diesel mechanic. One of the greatest examples i love is....3.8 series one buick, broken Valve spring, clack clack, full bottle of lucas, no more clacking, my dad drove it for rest of year like that until he could get another car. The lucas provided so much "cushioning" effect on that broken spring, it stopped the clacking unless u reved it over 4 grand, then some noise would come back. Another example, lucas trans fix and power steering fix, slipping trans, hard shifts or hard spots in pwr steer rack, all gone after lucas. Should u dump thousands into an old car to put a rebuilt tranny in? Or try a 10 dollar bottle of lucas, what have you got to loose at that point, try it, you'll be surprised at the results. Rear end gear whine, half bottle of lucas, no more whine. Now all this only works if u catch it in time, if it goes too long, u often cant save it. Also the lucas you are showing here, the oil stabalizer, can be used in trannys, BUT, they are talking about manual trans that call for 10w30 as the oil. Do not put it in auto trannies, use the tranny fix product. If you have a properly operating vehicle, theres no need for any Lucas products, just proper maintenance!
I agree with the comments about Lucas oil additive.I have rebuilt many 3406 and C15 engines over my 48 year career working with Caterpillar engines. One benefit I noticed Lucas oil added engines versus non Lucas engines. The engine bearings, pistons,rings,and gear wear no noticeable difference.One noticeable difference was the camshaft,rocker rollers and rocker shaft wear,on engines over a million miles.The Lucas protected camshafts was totally reusable as well as rocker arms and shafts.Meeting Caterpillar reusable part guidelines for above parts.Most straight oil engines had unwanted wear and fretting on above engines parts and had to be replaced. Does this single benefit justify usage? Probably not.Also use of the camshaft and associated parts would last very well and normally finish the usable life of the trucks.But I felt better about replaced camshaft and parts,because parts were warranted because of replacement.
I've got 300,000 on my ford explorer and I use this with every oil change, I figure the more lubed the parts the less wear, I could be wrong, all I can say is I got the 300,000 and still going, so not sure if it's the help of the Lucas or not, I will say my oil pump needs to be changed, but at 300,000 I e done pretty good not to have to change it till now, so either way I count my blessings and keep driving praise God
Lucas has been my savior during my pizza delivery days with my 1991 Crown Victoria which was a Michigan car that I brought down to North Carolina. Thank you Lucas!
One thing a machinist pointed out years ago. In a car engine, the oil control rings are not heavy enough to wipe thicker oils off the cylinder walls. IE : Thinner rings need lighter oils
True but Lucas makes in various ways for newer and in synthetic to which flows better for tighter tolerances whether you use them are not but I know it works great for bikes and diesel but kinda agree your adding oil to an oil just use quality to begin with
@@neilh6217 I’m hesitant to agree given that a 2015 Impala using Lucas just crossed 413,000 miles as of January this year and started using Lucas around 70,000 miles. We’ll see how it goes.
Possibly but plenty have seen reduced oil consumption going to this or heavier oil weight. If the rings were unable to hold the oil you would see increased oil consumption.
I will comment before even watching the video, but I have been using Lucas for years and would not stop. This thing works, really works. Yes it is heavy at first, but after some miles it losses thickness a little and become a super protectant to your engine. I even use it on my 3.0 marine engine and zero problems never.
Great video, I use a little bit of this product now and then mix it with Rotella T4 but you’re absolutely correct there are no numbers whatsoever to backup all the claims on the label, a little bit goes a long way IMO.
My great-grandpa says he has been jacking off with Lucas since he was 10, uses a micrometer on his member and hand and swears that he only measures .001" wear. 🤣
Lucus has a rapid viscosity change due to temp, you can physically see that easily. I tested this on predator motor(lawn mower motor). I ran it with oil and the recommended amount of lucus, then drained it and just ran it as if the oil wasn’t there just the recommended lucus and it ran still!!! Very well which was crazy, it’s a very cool product to test with
this is true there are 2 kinds of Luc.1 for newer eng. one for older engs. cold starts kills engs. i have used Lucus stuff for many years this g uy is full of stupid stupid ideas nuts!!!!!
I agree with everything that you said in the video. I would not and will not use is stock diesel engine. With that said I do use Lucas oil stabilizer in light limited super stock pulling motor. It is a DT466 based engine making over 1400 hp and turning more than 5000 rpms. I mix it with 15-40 delvac oil and have had very good performance. Just check bearing after 200 runs and they look like new. Use to run straight 50 w and had to change bearing after 40 runs. We check oil filter for metal after every run. I always wondered why the Lucas helped and after watching your video I think it is the additivity that makes it sticky that help. We run higher clearances that stock engine would. Keep up the great videos. PS. the perkins head does not look that bad. I seen worst. Thanks
I dont use lucas in my engine oil but I’ve had good luck with their auto trans oil and hub oil. As far as engine oil I use semi synthetic from a local manufacturer. It’s commercial use and since i can buy direct from the manufacturer it’s reasonable. Lasts long and works great. My dodge pickup has 1.1 million on it always using this oil with 10k mile intervals.
I'd like to share an anecdote (or as Josh said in the video, a testimonial). I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, I was heading down the freeway and struck a blown tire in the road. I was about 3 miles from home, so I figured that I could go home and check under my car to inspect for damage. I didn't make it home. The tire ripped out my transmission cooler lines, and about halfway home the transmission had nothing left in it. I fixed the lines, but the damage was done, poor shifting and a lot of slippage. So I used a bottle of Lucas, and the transmission was much better, but not perfect. So I continued to use the car, sourced a compatible core transmission, rebuilt it, and installed it when the transmission finally quit, which it did after about 12k miles. Just for the fun of it, I took my original transmission apart, and when it gave up the ghost, it had severely damaged hard parts, both of the planetary gear sets was missing teeth, the drums were severely scored, even the case was damaged on the inside. When it quit, it was the differential that blew, causing me to lose all forward gears, reverse, even park. No "mechanic in a bottle" was going to fix that. I was impressed. It gave me enough time to rebuild a transmission and have it ready to install for when the inevitable would come to pass. I've never used Lucas again since, for transmission, engine, or anything else, but that one time, it was a life saver.
@@vivillager my pickup will need a trans rebuild before too long. It’s an auto and it’s the original one. Fluid changed every 100-150k, 1 qt of Lucas and the rest oem fluid. It’s finally starting to slip when shifting but like I said that’s with 1.1 million miles on a first year DODGE AUTOMATIC… I’m shocked it’s made it this far at all to be honest. These trans never last this long. I ran hot shot hauling cars so that’s 25k lbs just about every day and it’s held up that well.
Lucas makes great oil and lubricants in general, the gun oils and grease are also fantastic. I use many of their products just not the oil stabilizer. The blow by and leak claims I can personally say they did help, but the cold starts in MN were not helpful.
I am a firm believer in Lucas oil stabilizer. I've used it for years a testament to it is a 498 cubic big block chevy 15to1 aluminum roded solid roller home assembled race engine. I started it on a morning at about 18degF going to the last race for the season and broke the oil pump drive shaft with out noticing left idling for approx 5 min while I got my truck hooked up to the trailor. Got back in the car and immediately noticed no oil pressure. I opened the bottem end up to check the rod and main bearings in the spring and left them alone showed 0 wear. I'm almost certain the Valvoline 40w racing oil had little to nothing to do with no bearing failure or wear just my testament to Lucas, and it was a dry start the engine had not been started in a little over a month for sure..... However I use it sparingly on newer vehicals because of the thickness and the tighter tolerances of the newer engines.
This stuff does work. We had a Detroit 671 that was getting really tired it was burning 4-5 gallons of oil an hour, it was starting to become an issue keeping oil in it considering it only held 7 gallons of oil. Having to add oil every 10-15 minutes is not good! Taking it out of service for a day or 2 to replace the cylinder kits was not an option for the next 6 months as this equipment was in service 24hours a day 7 days a week. Adding 50 percent Lucas to the oil did reduce oil consumption by about a gallon an hour or so, and improved oil pressure from 5psi to 15psi at idle and from 10psi to 20psi at speed. The downside is this Lucas gets sheered down really quickly, you might get 10-20 hours before you sheered the stuff down to a viscosity lower then 50wt oil. Anyway I wouldn’t run it in a healthy engine but it can certainly buy you some time when you need to finish one more job. When I tore it down in the off season the bearings were not bad, the crank was perfect! Other then cylinder kits a cam and bearings the engine was in great condition. I doubt it would have made it through the season without spinning a bearing without the additional of the Lucas.
It worked amazing for me too. One of my trucks was burning oil, about 5 qts every 2-3 weeks. I put in 1 quart of lucas stabilizer with 4 qts regular oil and a month later, it's all still there maintaining its level. One thing that will finish off a dying motor fast is that the oil is no longer there and you didn't notice it for a couple of drives and burned the engine up.
@@nunyabuziness8421 Sure it is but when it’s running 24/7 and shutting down the machine according to the owner will cost him $40,000 an hour a few hundred bucks or even a few thousand for some Lucas isn’t an issue. Shutting down the machine for half a day to swap the engine with a rebuilt one (which we had sitting in a crate ring next to the machine just incase it did blow up) is certainly a problem between the fines, permit deadlines, payroll, ect a shutdown can be a very expensive and intolerable situation. The engine was rebuilt when the job was finished and the new spare engine was put into storage. Some of this specialized equipment can’t be rented or even purchased off the shelf (it’s custom made) this isn’t a truck that you could just rent a replacement truck and then have the engine rebuilt! This isn’t a truck where if it’s out of service it’s not going to cost you much money an hour. This is a job with over 200 highly paid workers, federal permits, deadlines, huge fines for falling behind schedule, and an absolute stop date when the permits expire with no possibility of getting a an extension or a new permit till next fall due to some environmental BS. These are 50 million dollar jobs that if not completed will result in millions of dollars in fines. It’s a little bit different then your thinking about. Other equipment is constantly breaking so an engine that is running yet burning a lot of oil and has very low oil pressure isn’t exactly a priority unless it blows up. They didn’t bat an eye about paying an oiler $50 an hour (someone to literally stand next to this engine and add oil every few minutes) to keep it running for the duration of the job.
I put Lucas oil oil stabilizer in my racecar, mind you it's a 50 laps race, 5 laps in the car was way over heated. The gauge was maxed. I ran the rest of the 50 laps, yes car was very hot by the end of the race. All the car did was burn a quart of oil. I started the car the next day and has no knocks, no pinging, nothing. I am positive if I didn't have the Lucas in the oil, that motor would be cooked. I love this product and I sware by it.
Extreme temperatures caused the oil to thin out like normal engine oil or a bit thicker so in your case it helped but daily low rpm cruises on the highway, the engine probably wouldn't last too long
I had a really worn out 3406B that I used Lucas in. It certainly raised the low idle oil pressure. It also seemed to give it more power. I figured that it must have needed oil pressure to work a hydraulic governor or the afbf.
I started using Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer in my Nissan NV 200 with 130k miles and I noticed it right away. It’s definitely got more power than before. Feel’s like it gained 5-10 hp
It is only good in warm to hot weather situations ....If you live in an area where there is a winter season with it in the engine ,it will make the oil too thick when the engine gets cold and then dry starts area problem..,..
So I use Lucas oil in my logging equipment. What I’ve found is our older machines burn oil and this helps to reduce it. When I’m not there to make sure guys are checking oil before they start it gives me peace of mind. One old log loader we have will burn 3-4 gallons of oil between changes. With the Lucas it’s down to under a gallon. With that said I don’t run it in the machine I run daily or my pickup because I check it and do regular oil changes. My guys on the other hand. Not so much. My two cents. Not worth much but there it is.
I have 1.2m miles on my Detroit 60, started to use Lucas at 600k and still going strong I also noticed reduced engine vibration after using Lucas. As far as im concerned I would use it on a new engine because it doesn’t need it but I’d definitely recommend it for engines with over 500k. Specially when topping of oil as it will restore some of the biscotti lost by normal engine use
Yep, it works great on worn out junk to move it own to the next guy. it's like putting a fresh coat of paint on the worn out engine for the liquid overhaul. It's definitively fun working on engine parts covered in Lucas or similar products.
Long while ago I drove old fully loaded freightliner up a hill. It jus quit on me. Wouldn't pull at all. Smoked as hell. So I walked on highway to a TA. Got gallon of Lucas stabilizer. After adding it, smoke from stack greatly reduces, power came back, so I were able to continue up that hill. This was my friends truck I drove for, and since then I always had couple of gallons Lucas inside engine. For next 6 months same failure never happened again. That was enough to make me believer.
Really love watching Project Farm! One thing I like about his show is he is always improving his testing protocols! The results at least shows some insight into the products and the results dispels most of the mysteries of the tested products! A demonstrations is worth more than talk!
@@MMr.NOBODYY I don't think he was calling PF a snake oil salesman, but that rig is exactly what they used to build to sell oil additives and whatnot at county fairs and trade shows. It's a great tester, but it just tests a part of the oil, which the oil salesman would use to their advantage. A proper test (like what PF does) is use it as a part of an oil test, not the only test.
@@volvo09 I read that dude's comment 5 times and still can't figure out wtf he was trying to say. Not sure how putting a coherent sentence together is so difficult for someone able to use the internet.
Lucas Oil increases the film strength, and makes the oil “cling” to the metal parts. But it also thickens the oil. So it’s probably not the best in cold areas. One thing I do think is fishy, is that they say you can use it in anything, but then go on to specify "Not for Powerstrokes". Which they've now actually removed.
Correct. But we don't have an analysis of this said product... what is the level of detergents and additives they have put inside this Lucas Oil Stabilizer ?
@@johnhayes1618 Ford had issues with the power stroke injectors, so eventually had to go to a thinner oil to stop foaming in the oil pan. Lucas does make foaming worse.
@@johnhayes1618 600,000 miles my turbos perfect like the day it was born. 20% Lucas and the rest 15w 40 .Lucas DOESNT HURT IT ONLY HELPS, but the truck's gotta be driven ....
For someone who’s got an old truck (gas or diesel) and just wants to bandaid it long enough to get to the repair end (differential whine, engine oil consumption, etc.) I see this as a very viable option. But for anything else, I’d steer clear. Using this product as an additive to supplement oil change intervals and such, I don’t see that really happening. Best thing anyone can do is repair the problem, or to perform routine preventative maintenance properly. But if your someone like me, who has an old Silverado with 183k miles, and the rear diff is starting to whine in cold temps, this’ll do for the meantime. But it still doesn’t solve the fact that I need new bearings
Lucas oil additive is very slippery and sticky….I primarily use it on older engines that may burn oil or motor doesn’t have the greatest oil pressure. I also use Lucas oil additives to assemble engines. (Only on bearings) works great and doesn’t run off parts if motor sits for awhile! I’ve also use Lucas trans additive that actually works on a slightly slipping trans (doesn’t fix severe slippage nor broken parts) Granted it’s a temporary fix but may help extend life till it can be repaired properly.
I use Lucus or moreys oil stabilizer in my 2H toyota diesel engine, I found when I adjust the valves there is still a film of oil between the rocker and valve as apposed to before there was almost none (engine cold), rocker wear is a problem with these old engines.
I've never owned a new car so I've had great success with lucas in general. Keep in mind this product is meant for worn engines which is why so many that use it also get great results. I wouldn't use any additive in a new or fairly new engine or and engine that shows no signs of wear other than maybe a high mileage oil.
Thank you for that info I’ve been using Lucas in my 2006 KWT 600 with a C 15 for quite some time but this video has kind of open my eyes this truck has just under 900,000 miles and on my next oil change I’m going to try to do it without it
I think projectfarm did a video comparing this additive to some other brand of motor honey and found that in his test lucas does have a better friction coefficient and denatures slower than the control (5w30 gas car oil). I'd really like to see a more realistic or standardized test because he runs the friction test with the oil at room temperature, usually only a visual representation of wear is displayed. I use this when the tackiness/extra viscosity is desirable and its something I don't plan on rebuilding. I agree the rest of your arguments.
So I did an experiment with oil in a Honda Accord. I started using 15w40 because I could get it free from work. Now keep in mind this engine is recommended to have 10w30. But I thought hey it has 230k on it, so I'm probably not harming anything, and I didn't. But I did notice that it didn't want to build RPM as fast and it seemed a little slower than normal. So after a few oil changes with 15w40 I went back to a 10w30 and sometimes run a 10w 40, Wich by the way, that is why I don't see a big deal in 15w40. After the switch back to standard recommend 10w30 the car seems to build RPM faster and seems to not be as slow or lagging. It was a good test and an eye opener in viscosity. Hope my comments help. Cheers Scott
Very true. Thicker oil will cause more drag on spinning parts and make the engine have to work harder. Which then uses more gas and can increase the operating temperatures of the engine. I drive old 70's and 80's molars. Have 3 of them. They all have the original drive train. Engines never been apart besides timing chains or intakes. I have experimented with many different oils and additives. I have noticed a very noticeable difference especially in my more worn out and low HP 318. When I use the recommended 5w-30 vs say 10w-30 plus a qt of Lucas. With the plain 5w-30 the engine will accelerate MUCH better. Much faster response. Yet the engine will be noisey. Especially when first started cold. And then after being run hard on the highway and the engine is really warm. No knocking just clatter and ticks. So lifters, rocker arms... When I use thick stuff the engine is sluggish. Have to mash the gas hard and wait for the engine to spin up and "catch itself". When started cold it has lifter tick for 10 seconds. But when fully warm the engine is dead silent. It may also make the idle a bit smoother. It's really a trade off of what your needs are. But typically I would say most engines should have well passed 150k miles before any additives to thicken the oil are going to have more pros than cons. Another thing that isn't mentioned much is with older card anyways if you study the owners manuals they have a chart that shows what oil to use based on what outside temperatures are. So say in the winter when it is mostly 40degree and colder it tells you to use 5w-30 or 10w30 , 10w-40. Then in the summer when it's hot out and mostly above 70 degrees. It says use 10w-30 all the way up to a 20w-50. This is how recommendations used to be. So it was left up to you to decide what worked best in your car. But advised to go thin when cold and thick when hot. And increase the thickness when hot more when the engine was older. New cars say passed the 1990's do not have recommendations like this. For two main reasons. The thicker oils cause the engine to work harder ( despite possibly correcting other issues) this makes you use more gas. And the government is all into fuel efficiency standards. So they won't allow the manufactures to recommend something that will decrease fuel efficiency. The next reason is modern engines have gradually better and better tolerances between parts. They are built much more precise and tight fighting. (To increase efficiency partly). So thicker oils are not able to be used safely in them. Because even in a high mileage worn engine. The clearance may still be tighter than in a brand new antique engine.
@@ron1836 Try 5L of LiquiMoly 0w40 Synthoil. It not really flowing as well as a 0 weight ever. But it is flowing down to very cold temps in the winter while protecting well under heat. It has very good clinging to metal after hours and reduces friction. I buy at NAPA for 50 bucks so its not cheap but it's good.
@@jamesmedina2062 I'll have to check it out. I have tried MANY different oil\additive\filter combinations over the years in quite a few vastly different vehicles. I have seen and heard about liquimoly but never tried it or the additives. I believe the only place that has a few jugs of the oil in my small town is an advance auto. Our napa doesn't have shit. It's a small local store with an inch of dust on the shelves. I would say possibly the only draw backs to using it in old worn out carbureted v 8's would be maybe making leaks worse and also breaking up too much sludge too quickly. But I have used royal purple and Mobil 1 in !y old 318 Chrysler daily driver and haven't had issues. The engine was badly neglected before I had it. Like from the appearance when I had the intake off maybe the previous owner did 1 oil change every 30k miles bad! Haha. So even though 318's are known to usually make it to over 200k miles without big problems this engine is about whipped at 135k. I usually end up using something like Lucas, stop, hyper lube... Because the engine is making noise with regular oil and I don't feel comfortable hearing all that! Haha. One last thing I wanna say is oil filter types and brands can make a noticable difference in oil pressures too. I found this evident on a 2001 tundra I had. The oil pressure gauge was lower after I changed the oil once and used a different filter than usual.. (can't remember brand) then I bought an actual Toyota oil filter the next time and it gave it atleast another 4-5 psi oil pressure.
@@ron1836 the Toyota filter is nearly identical to the Honda one and they both allow sufficient flow. I wish more vehicles had an oil pressure gauge to check these things. Sludge is not good. You want to get it out at some point probably idling with a cleaner product in the engine like diesel or a designed cleaner. But if its tired can you rebuild it easily? I would guess you have lots of room to work on it, and not many wire looms like modern cars. You can also clean manually removing valve covers. I dread restarting my 351C because it has sat for over 10 years but hopefully I can prime it and get oil into bearings and the rings before firing it up again. I remember the fuel pooling on floor of the intake manifold but the carburetor only might add to dry carbon on pistons or a little dilution of the oil. I am thinking of trying a new Performer RPM intake but before that I am supposed to paint it and change transmission to a manual! At least thats the plan.
I have used Lucas Oil Stableizer in several vehicles. A 1998 Chrysler Concord. It was smoking, changed oil (137,000 miles) added a quart of Lucas and in about a week it stopped smoking, and ran a little smoother. I used it in an 88, Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6. Had about 10,000 miles on a complete reman, it helped get better fuel mileage, by .1 MPG, not much but something. I used it in a Cummins N14 with 1 .2 million miles and it helped get .25 MPG not much, but on 100,000 miles a year it helped a bunch. I also used Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner, combined with the oil Stableizer, I think it helped. Just my opinion and Not the opinion of this channel or its supporters. Lucas also makes an oil stop leak, I have used it in both big diesel, and gas engines. It does work like Lucas claims.
I might use this in my "cow pasture truck" It has a Ford 302 that has worn bearings such that I run straight 40 wgt. in the engine to keep the oil pressure up. Adding this stuff to an engine that really needs rebuilding might raise my oil pressure more.😄
Pressure is measured as resistance to flow. If your pressure is too low, you may have internal oil pump leakage. If it is above spec, you may have blockage from crap or a spun bearing?
I've use a similar product called "Morey's" since about 1985, in all of my vehicles, motorbikes, cars, 4x4 etc, I've only ever rebuild my Harley shovel head, the 4x4 I own now is a land cruiser it's done 700.000 now, owned for 23 years and has not been touched, and yes it mixes with auto trans oil(power steering) and gear oil etc very well and have had big success with them as well, diffs, transfer, swivel hubs etc are still all original even wheel bearings have not needed replacing, same with the Landover I used to own and all the other ones, my Vmax has way over 100k and has not needed even a valve adjustment! Now, all of my vehicles are before 2000 so I could not recommend the product for newer vehicles with very tight clearances because I do not have any experience with them but for older, let's say mid nineties and before certainly. I don't know what the difference is between the Lucas and Morey's product I hear they are very similar. It works for me!
My Toyota dealer warned me not to use any oil thickeners as is will cause problems with the variable valve train. They said that the lifters have a extremely small oil passage and it could be too thick to enter and exit the passage causing oil starvation and increased wear and possibly failure. They also advised me that it would or could void the warranty should they suspect that an additive was used. They routinely do oil analysis at a local lab when they suspect the additive was responsible for the failure! They also warned me not to use any zinc containing additives. I don’t know if it was fear mongering I guess or the truth! The fear of losing a warranty is enough to stop me from using any additives not approved by Toyota. I had a Peugeot 1981 504D, the dealer installed a Marvel Mystery Oil Injector! (Plastic container with a hose to the fuel oil filter and separator.) I religiously maintained the oil level and did the routine oil changes every 3000 miles. I got over 267,000 miles on the car with no engine problems! Every other part either rusted or fell off! Love that car as it was comfortable to drive and the front seats turned in to beds!
Lucas is an oil thickener only. It has zero anti wear addative or detergents. It dilutes the addative in the oil which decreases it's ability to prevent wear and clean.
I agree, I add a gallon in my ISX to boost oil pressure slightly and I also add some zinc to the oil because I wiped out a few camshafts in my previous ISX engine. I wouldn't run Lucas in a new or fresh engine.
I bought a 1997 12V Cummins . It ran like crap when I first bought it in 2014 even after changing the oil 3 times. THE FIRST TIME I PUT LUCUS IN IT .I HAVE NOT HAD 1 PROBLEM OUT OF THAT TRUCK AND IT COMPLETELY STOCK !! THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAD IS THROTTLE ASSEMBLY FAILED AND I HAD TO REPLACE IT ! I ALMOST HAVE 450,000 MILES ON IT ! IT STILL RUNS GREAT , AND FUEL MILEAGE IS WAY BETTER THEN MY 6.7 BECAUSE OF LUCUS FUEL ADDITIVE!! I LOVE LUCUS !!!
I have to bring up a few points on this one. Of course when an engine is new, never use anything except what the engine is designed for by the engineers who designed it. But as you said yourself, the older an engine gets, the more wear it has, and the larger the clearances will be in the bearings, then you use the thicker additives to fill those gaps. When you mentioned the knocking, you didn't think about how oil works. By using thicker oil and reducing the knock, you are reducing the amount of force that is being applied to the bearings. It would be like diving into the shallow end of a pool. The knock would be your head hitting the bottom. But if you were to use jelly in the pool instead of water, then you avoid the knock, which means you don't hit the bottom, and don't have the damage. The thicker oil cushions the bearings and prevents them from hitting their surfaces together, thereby preventing further wear and making the engine last longer, or extending the engine life. If Lucas oil additive is used when the engine is worn, someone can get a little more life out of their engine, an use that time to save up for the repairs.
@@jaredmayer3960 Do me a favor, take a hammer and hit the flat part of an anvil, then start placing substances on the anvil with increasing viscosity and hit it again with each substance. Use water, then WD-40, then motor oil, then gear oil, then grease. Then come back and tell me which one does a better job of preventing the hammer from having metal to metal contact, and which one is quieter.
@@davidscott5903 favour? Nah I’m good. You can’t fix crankshaft journal to rod bearing allowance issues with shit you dump in the crankcase. Period. Fuct is fuct. You can smash stoddard solvent on an anvil for me all day. I don’t do stupid things.
@@davidscott5903 nope. You’d have more oil flow through the fuct bearing and you’d be starving the other bearings. When you ascend to mechanical greatness you'll learn something. Rod knock can’t be fixed with additives. Period. It’s still not mechanically good no matter what kind of bullshit you’re spewing bud.
I've never used that stuff. I have used STP to bring back some viscosity in my brother's Nova. He didn't check the oil or change it. I still use STP as a prelube, I use what is handy. Other than that I don't use the stuff. Good video. A lot of people need to see this. My brother for one.
I agree with just about everything you said. I Just want to point out though so there's no confusion that there is no "zero weight" oil the first number on the viscosity rating, the number that's followed by a W (I.E 10w-30) is not the weight of the oil, the W stands for winter, not weight. It's the oils flow rating during winter/cold weather. Other than that great video. At the end of the day I feel it's best to just use a high quality oil as opposed to using aftermarket additives.
This 10w-30 rating is just a old school rating system for oil. The best oil has the lowest change of oil viscosity over the operating temperature of climate and engine temperatures. So a 0w-50 is a better oil than a 10w-30 or whatever 30 “weight”. The key is the viscosity index of the oil. This is a scale that maps the change of the oil viscosity. Basically buy a wider range of oil temp rating if your conditions demand it. If not, save money if you only run in a small part of the country with stable temperatures.
@@Adscam wrong, it's not an "old school rating system" it's the universal standard as determined by the society of automotive engineers. And no ideally you don't simply want an oil that has minimal viscosity change you want an oil that has the correct winter flow rating for the climate you're operating in and the correct operating temperature viscosity for the engine. There's no "One size fits all motor oil" however if what you state is completely wrong as there is a bigger viscosity difference between a modern 0w30 oil than there is between an old school 10w30
Finally someone who recognizes oil additives for what they are. The only satisfaction you get is a lighter wallet. I’ve only used HDEO in my 6.7L Cummins Ram. It’s all I plan on using.
Sooooo what's your odometttterrr at? I gots bout 600,000 commercial pulling miles Mine gets Lucas 20% with every oil change. 2014 Ram dulley 6.7 as well , another thing lighter wallet don't hold no water high miles does juuuuust a sayin .......
Panacea,,,,love it !! Very interesting video. My Dad always said the major oil manufacturers know much more than the aftermarket guys. They do thousands of hours of testing on dynos to test their oil and additive packages. I'm sticking with straight Shell Rotella 4 for my 6NZ. I do remember Cat did sell an oil additive years back ??? Thanks and take care !!
I tried Lucas, it did reduce the leaking and such till I got the old cat into the shop but it was a noticeable issue with cold starts. It made plugging in the heater a absolute must, I’d recommend it as a aid to help get the truck back to your regular shop or a few weeks till planned time off or something but I would not recommend for long term use.
Put some Lucas trans additive in my truck was very expensive! Made absolutely no difference! On the label claimed it 30 things it would do to ( repair) your trans looked exactly like STP took forever to get into trans . That’s the last time I’ll ever waste my money on Lucas products. Rislone is the only engine additive I’ve used for a noisy hydraulic lifter or lifters worked great!!!
Whenever a company spends a lot on advertising it makes me wary. Lucas spends a lot. I would rather pay for engineering and materials. But moreso the issue is that you need the balance between speed of lubrication and film strength(thickness). Too thick not good.
G'day, I totally agree with your comments , however ,,i feel perhaps the reality may have been overlooked. Stabiliser can be used in gearboxs, pumps, transfers differentials, hydraulics, ect ect ,so has.many other uses. Lucas Oils know any smoking vehical can be defected or fined hundreds for polluting . They also know drivers will use Lucas oil stabiliser to avoid fines and prolong engine life until they can repair or replace said vehicle. Lucas are after market share of those polluting vehicals , so realisticly Lucas are not aiming the product at new or performance vehicals. Finally ,, Lucas are careful to use language that maximises their matket share, even if its not a performance product. Lucas also give suggested dilution rates , How can it cool better ,,by prolonging the time it runs down a surface ,, in theory will allow more heat transfer . Cool vid , Respect from Down Under
I don't use it in the engine since it's not worn and I prefer frequent service. But I do use it in the portal boxes since I use 70W140 synth gear oil. I was having issues at higher speeds where the top of the 140mm seals would wear out. I suspected the thinner synthetic wasn't climbing the wear ring all the way. Never had another seal fail after adding 20% Lucas to the 75w140
I have a logging business and was going through final drives on my John deer dozers common problem for them the main top gear and bearing would get starved for oil i started using straight lucas oil stabilizer in all of my final drives instead of gear oil and never had a problem after that
I agree with CAT on this one...just follow the manufacturers recommendations. Manufacturers pay engineers to figure all this out and we may be pretty good at turning wrenches but we are not engineers and they are not us. I'd like to have them collaborate a bit more on design so when a wrench needs turned I don't need smaller hands or an extra joint in my arm. Maybe we should run chainsaw bar oil in our engines as they have a lot of tacifiers but it also needs to hang onto the chain and around the nose of the bar to get to the underside of the bar where it's needed, not many areas of my engine that needs that. A note on oil pressure that my newly rebuilt 12 valve Cummins (in my F350) had 70 psi and I could get 500 miles on a tank of fuel...after 30,000 miles I could consistently get 600 plus miles on a tank but at 55 psi. I'm sure the engine limbered up and clearances opened a tiny bit. As always good video Josh!
I just posted a review on the Lucas web reviews which is too long to re type...BEWARE !!! over a period of time with regular use it caused a sludge build up that plugged my engine oil pick up tube screen !!!! It is a good assembly lube ONLY !!!! but not a good product for regular use. YOU HAVE BEEN ADVISED......
I admit to using this in only air-cooled engines. 20% ish. I keep my mowers etc.engines (where straight weight oil is the norm). The horrible tolerances,assembly and quality overall aside, they stay running well past the life of the rest of the machine.
We only ever used 10w30 in our small gas engines. One push mower we got brand new in 1996 used it until 2009 when I wanted to rebuild it in small gas engines class in high school. Very little wear in it. Only problem was the carb was worn and needed an overhaul. No idea on the hours but it had to be close to 500+ hours on it. Commercial mowers that are generally now watercooled tend to last about 3000 hours before overhaul. Per the Kawasaki manual on these machines.
Mud mower guys use it along with gear oil to replace the grease the gearboxes are usually filled with. I don't use mine alot ,but it does run about 5x it's intended input speed and it's been goin for 5-6yrs now.
@@Ratkill9000 check out the Briggs engine they say doesn't need an oil change. Intended usage is 45mins a week for 4-5mo a year for 15yrs. I'll attest to that ,as I had one I never changed the oil for 10yrs and it still ran fine when I gave it away and it wasn't one of those engines. Why waste money on a 79$ push mower that lasted a season by changing the oil? I would have paid more for a company to come in and do it ,so I'm already ahead of the game.
As a certified master Cat engine rebuilder since 1988 I can tell you NEVER , NEVER, NEVER EVER use Lucas on the first startup on a rebuilt engine. Pre -lube the engine with standard engine oil. Also NEVER add Lucas till the fourth oil change. Lucas oil WILL NOT ALLOW the PISTION RINGS TO MATE TO THE CYLINDER LINERS. This WILL cause EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION. Lucas oil BONDS/COATS to metal. Pistion rings must mate to the cylinder walls. ALSO BEWARE SOME AFTERMARKET OIL ADDITIVES THEY HAVE CHEMICALS THAT DAMAGE / DRYOUT O-RINGS AND SEALS INSIDE THE ENGINE. This includes crankshaft seals and liner o-rings.
@@thebad300 I'm going to take your word on it. My dad always used STP and had "good results". His vehicles ran and lasted a long time. Of course, there's no way of telling how long they would have lasted had he not used the additive. Kinda like Lucas'. I always give it a minute to warm up a little especially in the winter. I take it real easy 'til it reaches operating temperature because I can see how cold thick oil might not get to the appropriate places in time while it's warming up. Thanks for your insight.
I use all of Lucas oils products, and have been since they came on the market, I have a 56 yr old car, and two 24 year old cars, they all run excellent with 0 mechanical issues, and I attribute that to Lucas. 1 is a diesel over 200k, it passes California smog II with flying colors, so do my other gas ICE cars.
I use the Lucas SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer, it isn't really any thicker than engine oil, and gives the oil a significantly slipperer feel as well as tackiness. Does it do anything? I have a 1995 Volvo 5 cylinder turbo that I picked up cheap. It had a lot of blowby, so much that the crank case ventilation system could not control it even after replacing the entire system. The engine smoked considerably, I put one quart in it one day, 15 miles down the road way less smoke. Not only that, no more oil all over the engine. Does it work? Well it freed up the sticky rings. You decide
My boss bought me an awesome 378 peterbilt at auction. MXS Cat. Massive blow by. I milked her for a year with a bit of Lucas. Reason being she had 3 cylinders with all rings damaged and it kept the oil from breaking down as bad. She is now platinum inframed and she will have 0 Lucas in her. Why? Lucas aint bad stuff at all. A well built engine does not need such things.
My 7.3 powerstroke requires 15qts of oil for a sump oil change and to prefill the oil filter. There's another 3qts in the high pressure oil system in the heads. I change oil and filter at 4000-5000 miles depends on my use. When I started using it I add 3qts of Lucas oil stabilizer, 20 percent, and I can tell you after driving around after you do your change out put around 30 50 miles to mix it all together the injectors are quiter, reduced smoke when started AND fires up better on a cold start. I did not start using Lucas oil stabilizer to fix any problems or noises w the truck I started using to help w longevity. Been using it over a year now and when I went without it on a change interval I could tell it ran different and started different. This my own experience and have been doing it on the truck for that last 25,000 miles.
@@viking.200 I know it does on the video but on the bottles and jugs it does not say that. Can argue about labels all day but I have actual years of experience using it in my 7.3 powerstroke and has done nothing but make the truck quieter, idle smooth and start better in cold weather cold starts. Not to mention the "7.3 powerstroke" isnt actually made by ford and not really a "powerstroke" it's by international and real name is T444E so maybe the warning online is right for later model "powerstrokes" but the 7.3 is nothing relatable to its predecessors other than the fact that they're HEUI diesel engines.
Loved the testimonials from people who use oil treatments and have never had a problem, so therefore they assert oil treatments work. There’s a Bert & Ernie skit on an old episode of Sesame Street where Bert walks in and Ernie is holding a banana in his ear. Bert asks why the Banana in your ear. Ernie says, “I’m keeping the alligators away from Sesame Street”. Bert says, “There are no alligators on Sesame Street!” Ernie replies, “See, it’s working”. This is a lesson for kids on the fallacy of Negative Evidence. Lucas makes millions from people who never learned the lesson.
I like your reasoning there Robert. People get pretty defensive about this product for some reason. I'm just pointing out the logic about their claims and lack of any studies done by this company. Of course, you can use whatever you want in your engine, but I don't think there are many good reasons to use this product.
I've used Lucas for assembling LSx engine and it has been great. Substantially cheaper than "Engine Assembly Lubes" and it sticks to the bearings so good Brake/parts cleaner has a hard time removing It.
@@christophermix6845 I've been using it for years. You can let the engine sit for 2 years and pull the main caps off and the stuff is stuck to the bearings like honey. Soon as you fire it up and oil gets to the bearings it mixes in no problem.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 sounds better than cam lube that stuff is sticky but will drip off pretty fast. My only fear would be the additives in lucas might not let the rings seat good due to slickness.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 gotcha I was just wondering if maybe the amount from the bearings would be enough to affect it mixing with the oil. But probably not though if you haven't had any issues with burning oil.
I drive a 1997 Toyota 4runner. I added it in within moments, I literally heard my valve train become quieter. It seems to run a little bit smoother, but that is most likely a placebo. However, I can physically show a difference in audible noise Before & After running Lucas oil.
My t56 gearbox has a damaged synchro but when i add this product and after its warm my box shifts like it’s brand new so this product definitely does work
I have used Lucas in various applications thru the yrs. Not every vehicle but several. Never had any issues. But I was at my local family owned oil change shop one day. A guy I know had a 1st generation Kia Sportage. After 100K he'd been using Lucas at every oil change. On this day, there was a mix up between him & the shop owner. The guy thought his Kia was done & backed it out of the bay & left it running because it was middle of winter. He came inside to pay & got to talking with all us inside. Long story short, they realized his vehicle never had any oil put back in after the draining. His Kia ran in freezing temps for at least 15 minutes WITHOUT any oil in it & was running smooth as silk when they shut it off. The shop owner filled it with oil & 1 Qt Lucas like he'd done for several times b4. That guy drove that Kia everyday for yrs after that & never did have a engine issue. Seen it with my own eyes... that really showed me what Lucas is.
💯💯💯💯💯 works‼️‼️‼️….Accidentally Ran my C15 without Coolant until it got Hot and Shut Down…Few days later started getting Low oil Pressure flashing.Whenever I would let the truck idle while I chain up my Flatbed loads it would start Smoking Terribly….I Changed the oil to see if that would Resolve the Problem but it “DID NOT”….However a few days later I put a Gallon of the Lucas oil Stabilizer.Smoked for Mayne the first 3 miles them been good ever since 💯
Going to buy Lucas Oil Stabilizer after this video to try it yourself, click the Amazon Affiliate link: amzn.to/3Juh0ZJ and thanks for watching.
Hey Josh, would you be willing to cover the following topics in a video?
-Navagating Cat SIS
-Cat falsh file encrypter, decryptor and what its uses are
Well, guess I’ma going to drain my oil/Lucas mix in my IDI 7.3. Didn’t see any benefits and one fella at a diesel shop said he has seen engines that used Lucas have a weird internal slime that was near impossible to get out.
@@Mikael5732 ive been testing that slime topic since like 1992, for some reason it just keeps coming back..... but my motor on that car has over a million miles..... mercedes diesel no matter what that motor wont die. dont get rid of the slime
@@Mikael5732 see
Good
Sir. Between the age of 7 and 10, I put 1.3 million rotations on the Lucas gear display at my pops fav auto parts store. I can assure you this stuff works…
Holy shit I forgot about that thing...thanks for relinquishing a buried childhood memory that took place at my local Napa’s.
They still have one at my local napa. I give it a few spins now and then 😄
🤣👍
I have one in my shop
Lucas, I am your father
Based on thermodynamic and fluid mechanics principles motor oil loses viscosity over time and use (shear thinning) so a thicker additive prevents against thermal breakdown and extends the life of the oil. Saved y’all 27 minutes of y’all’s life
I spent 47 years in the trucking industry and aside from driving company trucks I owned 5 of my own...1 Cummins and 4 Cats that totally accumulated 2.5 million miles. All had oil and filter changes every 10,000 miles or 250 hrs and all were on Chevron 15-40. In that time none of them required o/hauls or bearing changes. In other words no additives or snake oils...just good quality oil and filter changes on a regular basis.The cheapest investment in my equipment was lubes and filters.
I can't agree more. I've rebuilt lots of engines with over a million miles that ran just normal oil and many of them have bearings that barely had a scratch on them.
2.5 M miles divided by 5 trucks equals 500,000 miles per truck. Since the early '80s, that mileage is nothing to brag about, as, for example, my brother's 2 trucks powered by Cummins N14s achieved 3M miles before inframe.
@@cwj9202
Thank you for showing the math. If he would have used Lucas from the time they were at 300,000 miles, then he probably could have gotten a million miles out of them.
People don't realize how oil works. The more worn an engine is, the thicker the oil needs to be to fill the gaps.
Only additives I go for are Zinc and/or Moly in flat-tappet gassers, and certain flush agents when having some issues, particularly BG109. Otherwise, just run good oil, good filters, on good intervals.
That aside, every HEUI system I've seen personally with Lucas has had.... issues... that an oil change without the Lucas solved.
@@cwj9202 What really sticks out is that was only 10-12,000 miles a year on a truck, really hard to make money with that low of miles on a truck.
I am a firm believer in Lucas. I have an 01 navigator that I bought with around 126000 on it. It was poorly maintained and had a slight knock coming from the timing cover my guess on this was a sticking timing chain tensioner got it home and changed the oil and used one quart of Lucas in place of one quart of oil the knock went away after about 50 miles or less I just drove it around town a couple of days and before the knock went away which really surprised me. I change my oil every 5000 miles and use a quart of Lucas on every oil change I now have 225000 miles on eng and sounds good as new and runs like a champ.
Anecdotal evidence is the lowest form of evidence. If a 10-dollar bottle of additive could improve engine life and increase performance etc, then every manufacturer would recommend it. That would mean less recall and warranty work on their end.
When developing an engine, they run prototypes for thousands of miles through a myriad of conditions; all while testing oil samples throughout the range. In the end, they typically conclude that x oil is best. Also, you can reference the API label on each container of oil and it will tell you what specifications it meets. In a nutshell, oil additives are pointless. Do your scheduled maintenance as per the manufacturer and your engine will live a long happy life.
It’s miles not kms, 252000 miles is a lot
@@TheWalterHWhitethey engineer the vehicles to break down after warranty expires through planned obsolescence so your argument is obsolete
@@wazup3333 so you lead an engineering team at an auto manufacturer? Vehicles are judged on reliability, and it behooves companies to produce the most reliable vehicle.
Interesting; I had some Lucas I was planning to use with my 01 Xterra, but I just cleaned and rebuilt the engine after a head gasket and timing chain swap, and I did the tensioners too but it still have a slight chain rattle for the half second before the pump pressurizes the tensioners on cold startup.
I am using STP full synthetic 5W-30 for the break-in oil (I got ~4Qts for free thanks to finding a sealed 5Qt container with a damaged handle). It would have all leaked out if I didn't stop for it, so at least now it serves a good purpose before getting properly recycled. Otherwise, it's been running fine for the last 15 miles.
About to drain the oil and drop the filter to check for forbidden glitter, then it's fresh Mobil 1 and a fresh Mobil 1 filter, and since it's cold rn I'm going to rely solely on the additive package of the Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 full synthetic and see if that improves things on cold startups.
Been using Lucas oil treatment for over 25 years in everything I own cars trucks lawnmowers anything that uses oil in it and have Never had engine failure in anything period I'm a mechanic by trade over 40 years in field
One 300k miles and one 500k miles v8 work vehicles in my personal company. No snake oil ever in either of them. We have used it in warn out 40+ year old Oldsmobile diesel I owned that ate massive amounts of oil
I use Lucas and it improved the idle, prolonged oil life, the oil temp was better and the oil pressure was better. Good stuff!
Did you determine these facts with a scanner and actual read out of these items that you're mentioning or did you do it by the convenience cages that are not completely accurate on your dashboard.. Not criticizing just asking
Bs
Lucas has helped several of my vehicles go well beyond 200k miles....they do nor burn oil and compression is still in spec. I highly recommend it
Bottom line is if you use Lucas oil stabilizers you're probably maintaining your vehicles well. I do believe in their products
they make great stuff but id not use in on newer cars after 2010 iv seen it make oil to think cause rod knock but on older engine run it in every thing
I'm currently running it in my 17 ram just to try and keep the engine together for as long as I can at this point it developed piston slap about 30000 ago hence why I'm running Lucas because I can't justify the cost of replacing the motor that costs more then the truck is worth
Or you trying to save a vehicle that you haven't maintained properly and the engine sounds like crap lol
@@AKoehnFishing-xf4wj I bought it with 7000k I have done full synthetic every 5000k with OEM filters started to notice a problem at 110000 found out it needs a motor at 112000
@@possessedjake13 how is it goin?
I've been a fleet tech for over 40 years. All our oils are sent for analysis. We have been using power up additive since the mid 90's. The results are impressive, wear metals all went down, thus we've increased the change intervals and prolonged rebuilds.
It may work for you. Good thing is you do oil analysis. Another operator may work in cold climates like Alaska or Canada. Their oil requirements may be different to yours. Cheers
This video is totally worthless, he has no clue about oils , wear , what breaks down .
This seems like a low keys jab at a product for whatever reason.
I’m also a fleet tech and oil samples tell all and theses additives for sure help .
Any friction decreaser that doesnt become corrosive 👍 ptfe,teflon is what many are..
@@Adscam I'm not a fan of Lucas products but this product's purpose isn't to thicken oil like he claims. These oil additives do so many other things he doesn't touch on. False equivilancy ALERT!! Thicker oil isn't stickier. Those are two different qualities. Especially in cold climates you want sticky oil that will cling to your cam lobes, other valve train parts and especially cylinder walls.
@MrFatcat23 He didn't say it was sticky just because it's thicker; as he pointed out, Lucas has additives in it to increase the tackiness, or stickiness. So it is in fact stickier, because it is in fact stickier. In this video, the property of stickiness has no reference to the viscosity being thicker, he refers to it as an independent property. Furthermore; as he pointed out, regular engine oil clings to the bearings just fine, even in a heated shop, it will cling even better in colder temps due to the natural viscosity increase, you don't need anything other than regular oil to prevent dry start-up, and as shown in this video, isn't really a thing, even after sitting for a couple weeks, in a heated shop. Anybody who has ever pulled a bearing cap knows there is a suction there, due to the close tolerance and the oil, which in turn retains the oil, even on engines that have been sitting for years, there will still be suction on any bearing cap within normal wear limits, even the thinnest oil WIll NOT, EVER, drain out of the bearings, unless they are already wasted. Do not run thicker oil in the winter, especially not in the winter. In Montana, it is necessary to switch to a thinner oil in diesels, typically from a 15w-40 to a 5w-40 if you want it to start easily and reliably on really cold days which can get well below zero degrees F.
I use this product in diesel boat engines.I have to say it does exactly what it states on the bottle. Boat is left up for long periods and top end retains a film of oil.
It's not the size of your boat, it's the motion of the ocean. 🤣
I used Lucas for 12 years in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. I started using it the oil change after the warranty ended. This was an eye opener for me. At the end of the cars life it had 550000 miles on it. I never had a problem with the motor. (The transmission mounts rotted out) Lucas is a great product. The main thing it does is holds the oil on reciprocating parts. You aren’t using only Lucas. I was using it at about 25% Lucas 75% oil. It doesn’t thicken the oil to 60 weight. I used 5W30 and it was probably 7W30 when added. It definitely works tho.
I'm running a 2013 hyundai accent and honestly found after multiple runs of the car between oil changes and multiple samples taken of the oil, that thickening the oil has very little effect, running a 10W40 (auto shops recommendation) with oil additive I was running a steady 6.7L of fuel consumption per 100km on the highway, dropped it down to a 5W30 to test another oil product and was running 6.2L per 100km on the highway, then after fitting my oil intercooler, catch can, cold air intake and LED headlights, plus getting the transmission serviced, I've ran the manufacturer recommended 5w20 SAE oil with no additives and fuel consumption dropped way down to 5.4 average litres per 100kms.
Point being it doesn't matter what additives you run you're always going to suffer on fuel economy, and unless it's a PTFE or LDDP additive it's not worth the added fuel costs.
That said I have occasionally ran lucas upper cylinder lubricant, 1 quart will last me about 20 fuel tanks worth and you can definitely feel the effect it has on the throttle response.
@@alexanderwoolley1623to be fair those 1.6 gamma engines love thicker oil, I run 15w-50 in the summer in my '16 with 231k and it purrs along happily.
Well said, that what I was about to say EXACTLY......AND it does not mean the Lucas oil IS preventing oil to pass through tight spaces I'm POSITIVE THE OTHER PARTS or aspects of the oil does pass through 5w-20 or 10-w30 tight areas of the engine... by him saying Lucas might prevents that I HIGHLY DOUBT THAT. ( and is a BOLD stament when there no physical proof or test.That would mean you used 100% of Lucas oil 😂😅 so take your pick what is accully working. My bet is there working in unison thinker oil stays on top while thinner oil passes through in theory. But what I have witnessed many time noise is reduced and Lucas oil cold cranking definitely prevents DRY starts. My dad's 1991 Ford Ranger XLT put Lucas the second time the oil changes quieted and ran much much smother but of course did a full tune up aswell. Taping was reduced dramatically. When the engine really Warmed up even quieter. I used it for 20 years. It just made sense DRY COLD cranking #1 problem with ANY VEHICLE when regular oil sat too long. I hear that noise every time I start my car with out Lucas..
I think the eye opener here is Toyota and not Lucas
@konstantinostselios1129 that was a good one!🤣....but I had ford complete opposite not like the mighty toyota, still, the 91 ford ranger still RUNS SMOOTH .... for now😅😅.....Lucas help that noisey ford
I probably wouldn’t use this in a newer car but it does work pretty well on worn out engines. I had a car that started burning a quart of oil every 400 miles around 225,000 miles. I started using a similar product and started burning a quart about every 2,000 miles. When the car finally quit for electrical issues that weren’t worth fixing the engine was still running strong at over 275,000. This stuff is great for keeping an engine that’s on its last leg going when it’s not worth putting more money into the car.
I will drive until tires fall off
They have a synthetic for newer low Viscosity engines, I run a 1.5 quarts in my 5.7l Tundra (it's 9ish quarts withe filter). The nest thing about it is that it sticks to all the import surfaces, 95% of all wear in a a motor is cold dry starts and this stops it.
@@TdrSld my tahoe had 350k an had a small tick when started added lucas and never had another problem sold it with 400k ran mint
You shouldn't use Lucas Heavy Duty on a car anyway. That's what Lucas Synthetic is for.
@@ravenshrike synthetic is for synthetic oil. Heavy duty is for reg oil. I live in fl and it gets so hot here the oil breaks down so much faster. Lucas heavy duty oil helps keep everything coated nice. My uncle had a 2000 Grand Marquis he always went to the service intervals for fluid changes well it says 100,000 Mi for the transmission fluid not here in Florida should change it around $30,000 miles or whenever the oil starts to change color
Since oil breaks down it makes sense that adding a thickener to worn oil should restore viscosity.
I do use Lucas but try not to dump a cold blob down where it could clog the oil feed.
I try to do it on a warm day and add a little then some oil then some more.
I'd be concerned using it in freezing temperatures but it's hot here.
I also only use a little in my BMW which likes thin oil for the vanos.
I usually only add about half what they recommend.
It's thick and has to have more drag. Like running in molasses.
An ounce of protection is worth a pound of cure.
If you have low oil pressure and the light is on at idle I thought it needs pressure or oil won't make it downstream. Like a finger over a hose.
You do make a great point that more pressure doesn't mean it's making it either. It could be blocked.
Cooling can come from reducing blow by.
Combustion pressure can carry heat past rings and seals. Sealing those gaps keeps heat moving.
It's good to remember that this goo is diluted at least four to one in oil and heated over a hundred degrees. It's going to be thinned out.
It would be interesting to dilute one ounce Lucas in four ounces of oil and see how thick it is. Then freeze it and heat it and compare to pure oil.
If you have never used it. Do a oil change put it in a milk jug. Next oil change add Lucas, and do the following oil change and milk jug that... Shake at the same time and rest aside. Compare them after time.. Rather have the lube then none. Used in all my vehicles... Plow trucks and all... Not saying the be all end all but another ounce of protection..
44 years in trucking, never had a new truck it's always been used. I have used Lucas for many, many years. In engine's, Trans, and rear ends. Never had any problems. I do change engine oil every 10,000, and air filters every 4 months, Trans and rear ends every year. One thing you missed and failed to bring to light was dirty air makes dirty oil and increases engine ware and performance. At the present I have a c-16 I still practice 10,000 air filters at 4 months. You think about it 1 gallon of Lucas to 9 gallons of oil 10w40. You also failed to recommend not operating that engine till it got to proper operating temperature. I'm sure you are a very good mechanic I have watched your videos and will continue. Don't ever stop thinking out of the box, don't get what I call working with blinders on. 👍😉🇺🇲
Caterpillar does NOR recommend to use any oil thickeners, they are detrimental to healthy engine. The very small tolerances within moving parts in today's engines require thin oil, not a thick oil. I use Lucas only for my gear boxes, I completely stopped using it for the engine.
Although diesel engines are not as sensitive to thicker oil as high end cars, those cars serve as perfect example of how thin oil makes all the difference. You cannot put thick oil in Lamborghini or Ferrari, you will destroy the engine. On lesser degree, that is also true with modern diesel engines. Yes, when your engine is worn out, the oil thickeners will extend the operational life of the engine a bit but you're not doing yourself any favors by doing that - for several reasons I'm not going to go into here.
If what you do works for you, good. But I think to dismiss his arguments that are based on his expertise (because I'm pretty sure he knows little bit more about engines than you do) is not a good approach here.
I learned the hard way that it's very wise to go by the engine manufacturer recommendations, and in this case, CAT or even Cummins warns to stay away from Lucas and other similar products. It WILL void the warranty in case of engine failure if the oil analysis shows you haven't been using just straight recommended oil (regardless of the Lucas claims about warranties not being void).
You can use 8 air filters a year and change your oil each 5,000 miles if it makes you feel good - but who cares? That was not the point of his presentation.
Ever taken a motor apart after using Lucas? I have, and the stuff sticks to every metal surface in the motor..thereby reducing if not eliminating dry starts (starting an engine is the most damaging time for a motor)...Lucas definitely provided near total protection as far as lubrication..my system is 5.5 quarts, so I use an entire "quart" bottle. I have also used it for assembly...freaking awesome!!(I soak the bearings for 24 hours pre assembly).. it also blends with the oil you use, and thins the Lucas out...which in turns makes the Lucas flow easily.
or just get thicker oil.. when oil gets Hot it just runs down to the pan we put some in a 4cyl engine running a generator and ran it dropped the pan there was no difference in the way the oil was "sticking"
@@Mr_Meowingtons I call bs...I pulled apart a motor as far to using Lucas..I to was literally sticking like a thin glue...so go back and club up so you know what you're talking about
@@Mr_Meowingtons yea buddy get out of here and let the engine builders talk
@@thomaspower8197 You sound like the type of person that daily carries a 1911.
@@nocturnal0072 he probably lubes his 1911 with Lucas
20:22 I will take a bit of issue with you here. On a badly worn engine the thicker velocity will reduce friction in the bearings, thereby reducing heat. I have seen highly significant differences in engine temps on older engines, especially with a heavier viscosity oil or STP.
I run belly dump and side dumps for construction in very harsh environments and I've been using Lucas for about 15 years, I bought my 98 Pete in 2011 with no history on the engine (3406E) still runs like a top 76psi (oil pressure oil pressure without Lucas was 74psi), doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. The one thing I really noticed is it did drop the oil temperature 20 degrees from 235/240 degrees down to 215 degrees, heat is what kills oil. What sold me on it was my friend races monster trucks with blown and alcohol injected engines and his bearings were shot after 4 to 6 races after using Lucas he could run a full season on one engine. (Alcohol washes the bearings and cylinders out) just my experience with it.
Oil pressure is resistance to flow. You can't increase resistance without increasing temperature.
@@prosourceoil6380 you're definitely right
@@turbojetpowered8299 thicker does not reduce friction, only increases friction. Proof being, oil viscosity specifications of today and going into the future are lower than the specs of the past. These viscosity changes are for fuel mileage increases. Lower viscosity = increased fuel mileage. Lucas additive increases viscosity.
Older vehicles being stored, Lucas does not help with either. Use a oil with high amounts of rust inhibitor additives and fogging oil.
Everything on the bottle of Lucas is a lie.
Well hey I'm an rv hauler 12 yrs 3 Dodges/ Rams 2 million miles and I use 20 % every oil change 4,ooo - 7,8oo miles and no troubles with engine The shit is great , and that's why it sells. If it wasn't any good it never would've lasted decades at Wally World and O'Reilley's .Them guys that say all yer doing is THICKENIN UP YER OIL, THAT'S NONSENSE IT HAS STAYING POWER AND IT MIXES PERFECTLY W/ OIL TO COAT EVERYTHING IN AN ENGINE.
@@prosourceoil6380 that's not entirely true. you can't while using the same oil. Thicker oil takes longer to heat up, but pressure can still increase.
I got over 650,000 miles out of a 2000 Freightliner with a 3126. I never did an inframe, never blew the motor. No smoke, no blow by. I used Lucas, changed the oil every 8000 miles. The motor outlasted the truck itself. I sold the truck a year agao, and the motor was swapped into another truck that's still in daily use.
That's an impressive amount out of a 3126.
@@AdeptApe You always say that whenever I post about it. The Motor was unkillable. One extremely cold February morning I dropped a valve. I had a load on the truck that was going to Rhode Island to a Merchant Marine ship. It was their supplies.I had to be there by 8 am. I had no choice to try to make it. I drove almost 200 miles and made the delivery. I had the truck towed back to Brandford Freightliner in Connecticut and they repaired it. My buddy Adam, who owned a trucking company told me if that chain of events didn't kill the motor nothing will. He was right.
The THOMAS , DID YOU USE 20% LUCAS IN THE 3126, OR JUST COUPLE QUARTS ? JUST WONDERING........I HAVE 2014 CUMMINS 6.7 W/ 598,000 PULLING RVS AND DOING GREAT ON 20% LUCAS AND 15W 40. It is my third Dodge Ram , and second one w nearly over 600,000 miles
@@ronmoore3987 I had the 32-quart sump and used 1 gallon per oil change. Sometimes I would add Lucas if I was down a quart. I didn't burn much oil inbetween services which became shorter and shorter intervals as the miles added up. When it was new I would go 15 thousand miles in between oil changes, then 10,000, then 7,500 miles or every 4 months which ever came first. The engine still lives on in a dump/plow truck.
I now have a 2018 M2106 with the Cummins 6.7B and that has 365,000 miles on it. I'm not using Lucas. I have been using Triax oil in it since it was new and I find that oil to be the best I have ever used.
Wow
I had a crappy little 2000 Geo Metro for a winter beater. It was smoking. I had to get a drive clean test and it failed. I put in Lucas Oil Stabilizer, drove it for a couple days, went back, re-tested - PASSED! Probably saved me a lot of money in repairs or at least let me keep driving it for another year until the front axle just freakin' broke.
On inframes and rebuilds I have always used Lucas as assembly lube, it's always worked great for me!
It's very good for that. The gooeyness helps the oil pump suck up oil quickly.
There are far better assembly lubes they have quality additive packages though. When you learn how cheap Lucas actually is you'd think differently of their product, the marketing sells Lucas, especially the deceptive little gear display to captivate the oil ignorant consumer base
@@100pyatt Yes there are much better assembly lubes.
I love this video. When I got my first car ('91 Grand Am), it had a weak lifter, leaking valve-cover gasket that I stopped replacing after the second one (I carefully avoided looking near the head gasket because I didn't walk to know), burned oil, had worn piston rings. As a poor single lady, I kept Lucas in it, and drove it 14 years before someone gave me a 2009 Camry. I don't run Lucas in the Camry because I can keep up on the maintenance and repair.
I knew an oil salesman that would say, “If you have to add something to your oil, that basically means your oil wasn’t good enough in the 1st place”
oil SALESMAN. his best oil is gonna always be the top of the line must have !!!
We should also consider the fact that with high mileage the engine is not going to have the same tolerances so the engine is not going to be good as it was new.
As a heavy equipment mechanic, I'd tell my customers "If my cock was a piston in your engine, you would easily haul more ore every month". 🤣
A damn salesman ain't no Roadrunner like myself .Ya see there are thee office types and then there are the milemakers like me. I live a hard life and I use the shit.My truck don't sit in no damn garage every nite either
@@clittle1559 coughing!!! amsoil!!! Coughing!!!!
Project farms has tested many of the snake oil products and Lucas did not match up to regular oil. I suggest to anyone considering adding such products to your oil to watch his videos. He also tested different oils and there is a difference in oil quality. Thanks Josh.
In pretty much all of his tests lucas outperformed regular oil so I’m not sure where you got the information that it didn’t match up
@@charlienorton2337 sorry I didn't mean Lucas in particular but in snake oils as a whole. The 1 major claim they all make is better fuel efficiency. But motorkoat was the 1 that seemed to perform the best especially on the bearing wear test. And I am specifically talking about what they CLAIM their product will do.
@@charlienorton2337 I can attest that Lucas oil stabilizer works. It does reduce sludge. I had a prius that I always just put regular oil in, it was always black after 3500 miles. Added Lucas oil and after the 6 or 7 oil change I noticed that 3500 miles the oil still looked good (not as dark) and each time after that I went up 500 miles. Now I change at 5000 miles and that oil looked like my 3500 Mile oil back in the day. So yes. It definitely works
@@kyle-li8sn oil should get black or it is not cleaning your engine, so Lucas is bad for your engine, like everyone knows.
@@V8Lenny sorry but you are missing informed! Oil turning black is from the blowby in rings and valves.... not to clean your motor but to lubrication is the reason for oil.... better go back to school if your a mechanic.
I use in my truck with Detroit 14.0 Liter engine in each oil change I add 2 gallons of Lucas and 8 of regular oil, on one occasion I did the oil change with 32 thousand miles and never under oil pressure and only consumed less than a gallon in all that time, I would say that it works very well according to my experience
60 series 515jp 06 I use a gallon of Lucas every oil change 9k
My 23 year old Mercedes SLK230 Kompressor with high miles is absolutely perfect for Lucas. It loves it! Never missed a beat. When I bought car, before it had Lucas in it, it was quite a loud, rough sounding engine. Added Lucas and within 50 miles it was literally purrrrrring like a cat!
These older Merc engines love thicker oil in general! I have a W140 300SE with the M104. When I bought it it had 10w30 in there. I switched to 15w50 and it runs smoother, quieter and the oil leak almost stopped completely (leaks are also common on these older Mercs 🤣)
the whole point of Lucas engine oil stabilizer is to provide a barrier between wear surfaces. the Lucas is both slippery and sticky at the same time.it will stop oil burning in old engines and increase the life span of new ones. ive been a licenced mechanic for 37 years and ive been putting Lucas in every engine i own for the last 20 years i even have it in the gear lube on my gold wing and my dodge truck it will increase gear life and will stop a sweaty seal from leaking. i should be the poster boy for Lucas. i also use the fuel treatment in my 94 cumins diesel. as far as im concerned todays oils are to thin and dont provide a proper barrier between moving parts, lucas is the answer ot this issue.
Can you put Lucas in the diff ?
I stand behind lucas products they have been great to me! Every oil change i use lucas oil stabilizer..5 quarts royal purple full synthetic and 2 lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer for the 7 quarts i need every 3000 miles and wix filters only...Im at 240 thousand miles on a preeagle 5.7...never droped a lifter never had a engine failure..orginal oil pump and timing chain still..If its not doing anything well its worth the piece of mind that it is
You water down good oil with that crap? Geeze dude. Cheap oil every 5k miles of typical use will keep an old v8 going 250k miles very easily. That's literally not high miles for any engine besides Dodge
@workingcountry1776 lmao 🤣 u should be a comedian very funny guy 🤣Another ford lovers opinion we all know does not matter
Ive been using Lucas in various engines over the years. Its hit or miss. Depends on the scenario. Gotta understand youre using it on a worn engine that just oil isnt cutting it and to try and stretch your pennies as far as you can. Ive had engines where it didnt make much of a difference, but ive had a few that would run nice with it, but if i tried running without, it would knock and have blow by. Even in the winter when its thick, youre only supposed to have up to 20 percent lucas to oil. It does take an extra moment to get it going, but the film strength and tackiness makes up for it in some cases. Ive seen it go both ways. Also, if your engine has alot of sludge built up, youre going to want to address that first because even with just straight oil thats a problem. Youve hit every concern right on the head with your video. It also does work nice for assembly lube or for coating and engine thats going to sit for a while. I put away a few engines and put a nice helping of lucas in the oil and ran it for alittle bit. Had good success. So if an engine is worn out beyond just going by the recommended oil interval, or you have one of those type of engines youre running on alcohol and pushing enough power to only get several runs out of before a rebuild, you might want to give it a go. On a lower mileage engine in good shape, you’re not doing any favors
I am a certified technician, certified by the parts store where I turned the crank on the gears display growing up. I saw it coat those gears. My eyes work. Millions of spins. I can assure you sir, it works.
I think many fail to realize many of these things lucas does is only beneficial to a really worn engine or engines with problems.lucas is great at putting a bandaid on a worn engine to allow u to drive it awhile longer. Thats where Lucas shines and it does work as ive seen it work with my own eyes over the course of my almost 25yrs as a diesel mechanic.
One of the greatest examples i love is....3.8 series one buick, broken Valve spring, clack clack, full bottle of lucas, no more clacking, my dad drove it for rest of year like that until he could get another car. The lucas provided so much "cushioning" effect on that broken spring, it stopped the clacking unless u reved it over 4 grand, then some noise would come back. Another example, lucas trans fix and power steering fix, slipping trans, hard shifts or hard spots in pwr steer rack, all gone after lucas. Should u dump thousands into an old car to put a rebuilt tranny in? Or try a 10 dollar bottle of lucas, what have you got to loose at that point, try it, you'll be surprised at the results. Rear end gear whine, half bottle of lucas, no more whine. Now all this only works if u catch it in time, if it goes too long, u often cant save it.
Also the lucas you are showing here, the oil stabalizer, can be used in trannys, BUT, they are talking about manual trans that call for 10w30 as the oil. Do not put it in auto trannies, use the tranny fix product.
If you have a properly operating vehicle, theres no need for any Lucas products, just proper maintenance!
I agree with the comments about Lucas oil additive.I have rebuilt many 3406 and C15 engines over my 48 year career working with Caterpillar engines. One benefit I noticed Lucas oil added engines versus non Lucas engines. The engine bearings, pistons,rings,and gear wear no noticeable difference.One noticeable difference was the camshaft,rocker rollers and rocker shaft wear,on engines over a million miles.The Lucas protected camshafts was totally reusable as well as rocker arms and shafts.Meeting Caterpillar reusable part guidelines for above parts.Most straight oil engines had unwanted wear and fretting on above engines parts and had to be replaced. Does this single benefit justify usage? Probably not.Also use of the camshaft and associated parts would last very well and normally finish the usable life of the trucks.But I felt better about replaced camshaft and parts,because parts were warranted because of replacement.
How much does a new cam and lifter package cost, vs a million miles worth of additive?? 🤣
I've got 300,000 on my ford explorer and I use this with every oil change, I figure the more lubed the parts the less wear, I could be wrong, all I can say is I got the 300,000 and still going, so not sure if it's the help of the Lucas or not, I will say my oil pump needs to be changed, but at 300,000 I e done pretty good not to have to change it till now, so either way I count my blessings and keep driving praise God
Lucas has been my savior during my pizza delivery days with my 1991 Crown Victoria which was a Michigan car that I brought down to North Carolina. Thank you Lucas!
One thing a machinist pointed out years ago. In a car engine, the oil control rings are not heavy enough to wipe thicker oils off the cylinder walls.
IE : Thinner rings need lighter oils
True but Lucas makes in various ways for newer and in synthetic to which flows better for tighter tolerances whether you use them are not but I know it works great for bikes and diesel but kinda agree your adding oil to an oil just use quality to begin with
especially these newer low-tension rings nowadays. While older A-B model cats and N14's My Big Cam IV. No chance on newer machines.
@@neilh6217 I’m hesitant to agree given that a 2015 Impala using Lucas just crossed 413,000 miles as of January this year and started using Lucas around 70,000 miles.
We’ll see how it goes.
Possibly but plenty have seen reduced oil consumption going to this or heavier oil weight. If the rings were unable to hold the oil you would see increased oil consumption.
I will comment before even watching the video, but I have been using Lucas for years and would not stop. This thing works, really works. Yes it is heavy at first, but after some miles it losses thickness a little and become a super protectant to your engine. I even use it on my 3.0 marine engine and zero problems never.
Great video, I use a little bit of this product now and then mix it with Rotella T4 but you’re absolutely correct there are no numbers whatsoever to backup all the claims on the label, a little bit goes a long way IMO.
My great-grandpa says he has been jacking off with Lucas since he was 10, uses a micrometer on his member and hand and swears that he only measures .001" wear. 🤣
Lucus has a rapid viscosity change due to temp, you can physically see that easily. I tested this on predator motor(lawn mower motor). I ran it with oil and the recommended amount of lucus, then drained it and just ran it as if the oil wasn’t there just the recommended lucus and it ran still!!! Very well which was crazy, it’s a very cool product to test with
I would look at Lucas pure synthetic stabilizer, it's much thinner but still tacky so I would recommend it over their original
this is true there are 2 kinds of Luc.1 for newer eng. one for older engs. cold starts kills engs. i have used Lucus stuff for many years this g uy is full of stupid stupid ideas nuts!!!!!
I agree with everything that you said in the video. I would not and will not use is stock diesel engine. With that said I do use Lucas oil stabilizer in light limited super stock pulling motor. It is a DT466 based engine making over 1400 hp and turning more than 5000 rpms. I mix it with 15-40 delvac oil and have had very good performance. Just check bearing after 200 runs and they look like new. Use to run straight 50 w and had to change bearing after 40 runs. We check oil filter for metal after every run. I always wondered why the Lucas helped and after watching your video I think it is the additivity that makes it sticky that help. We run higher clearances that stock engine would. Keep up the great videos. PS. the perkins head does not look that bad. I seen worst. Thanks
I dont use lucas in my engine oil but I’ve had good luck with their auto trans oil and hub oil. As far as engine oil I use semi synthetic from a local manufacturer. It’s commercial use and since i can buy direct from the manufacturer it’s reasonable. Lasts long and works great. My dodge pickup has 1.1 million on it always using this oil with 10k mile intervals.
I'd like to share an anecdote (or as Josh said in the video, a testimonial). I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, I was heading down the freeway and struck a blown tire in the road. I was about 3 miles from home, so I figured that I could go home and check under my car to inspect for damage. I didn't make it home. The tire ripped out my transmission cooler lines, and about halfway home the transmission had nothing left in it. I fixed the lines, but the damage was done, poor shifting and a lot of slippage. So I used a bottle of Lucas, and the transmission was much better, but not perfect. So I continued to use the car, sourced a compatible core transmission, rebuilt it, and installed it when the transmission finally quit, which it did after about 12k miles. Just for the fun of it, I took my original transmission apart, and when it gave up the ghost, it had severely damaged hard parts, both of the planetary gear sets was missing teeth, the drums were severely scored, even the case was damaged on the inside. When it quit, it was the differential that blew, causing me to lose all forward gears, reverse, even park. No "mechanic in a bottle" was going to fix that. I was impressed. It gave me enough time to rebuild a transmission and have it ready to install for when the inevitable would come to pass.
I've never used Lucas again since, for transmission, engine, or anything else, but that one time, it was a life saver.
@@vivillager my pickup will need a trans rebuild before too long. It’s an auto and it’s the original one. Fluid changed every 100-150k, 1 qt of Lucas and the rest oem fluid. It’s finally starting to slip when shifting but like I said that’s with 1.1 million miles on a first year DODGE AUTOMATIC… I’m shocked it’s made it this far at all to be honest. These trans never last this long. I ran hot shot hauling cars so that’s 25k lbs just about every day and it’s held up that well.
Lucas makes great oil and lubricants in general, the gun oils and grease are also fantastic. I use many of their products just not the oil stabilizer. The blow by and leak claims I can personally say they did help, but the cold starts in MN were not helpful.
What a shit video. You offer zero scientific evidence and only theoretical opinions
I am a firm believer in Lucas oil stabilizer. I've used it for years a testament to it is a 498 cubic big block chevy 15to1 aluminum roded solid roller home assembled race engine. I started it on a morning at about 18degF going to the last race for the season and broke the oil pump drive shaft with out noticing left idling for approx 5 min while I got my truck hooked up to the trailor. Got back in the car and immediately noticed no oil pressure. I opened the bottem end up to check the rod and main bearings in the spring and left them alone showed 0 wear. I'm almost certain the Valvoline 40w racing oil had little to nothing to do with no bearing failure or wear just my testament to Lucas, and it was a dry start the engine had not been started in a little over a month for sure..... However I use it sparingly on newer vehicals because of the thickness and the tighter tolerances of the newer engines.
I only put 250 ml to my car. I just hope it's enough though.
This stuff does work. We had a Detroit 671 that was getting really tired it was burning 4-5 gallons of oil an hour, it was starting to become an issue keeping oil in it considering it only held 7 gallons of oil. Having to add oil every 10-15 minutes is not good! Taking it out of service for a day or 2 to replace the cylinder kits was not an option for the next 6 months as this equipment was in service 24hours a day 7 days a week. Adding 50 percent Lucas to the oil did reduce oil consumption by about a gallon an hour or so, and improved oil pressure from 5psi to 15psi at idle and from 10psi to 20psi at speed. The downside is this Lucas gets sheered down really quickly, you might get 10-20 hours before you sheered the stuff down to a viscosity lower then 50wt oil. Anyway I wouldn’t run it in a healthy engine but it can certainly buy you some time when you need to finish one more job. When I tore it down in the off season the bearings were not bad, the crank was perfect! Other then cylinder kits a cam and bearings the engine was in great condition. I doubt it would have made it through the season without spinning a bearing without the additional of the Lucas.
Thanks, Your writing this really keeps this stuffs usefulness in perspective.
It worked amazing for me too. One of my trucks was burning oil, about 5 qts every 2-3 weeks. I put in 1 quart of lucas stabilizer with 4 qts regular oil and a month later, it's all still there maintaining its level. One thing that will finish off a dying motor fast is that the oil is no longer there and you didn't notice it for a couple of drives and burned the engine up.
Lucas isnt cheap and that much is a fortune and better off rebuilding
Try using a straight weight base oil synthetic. These oils do not sheer like multiweight conventional oils and even some synthetic multiweights.
@@nunyabuziness8421 Sure it is but when it’s running 24/7 and shutting down the machine according to the owner will cost him $40,000 an hour a few hundred bucks or even a few thousand for some Lucas isn’t an issue. Shutting down the machine for half a day to swap the engine with a rebuilt one (which we had sitting in a crate ring next to the machine just incase it did blow up) is certainly a problem between the fines, permit deadlines, payroll, ect a shutdown can be a very expensive and intolerable situation. The engine was rebuilt when the job was finished and the new spare engine was put into storage. Some of this specialized equipment can’t be rented or even purchased off the shelf (it’s custom made) this isn’t a truck that you could just rent a replacement truck and then have the engine rebuilt! This isn’t a truck where if it’s out of service it’s not going to cost you much money an hour. This is a job with over 200 highly paid workers, federal permits, deadlines, huge fines for falling behind schedule, and an absolute stop date when the permits expire with no possibility of getting a an extension or a new permit till next fall due to some environmental BS. These are 50 million dollar jobs that if not completed will result in millions of dollars in fines. It’s a little bit different then your thinking about. Other equipment is constantly breaking so an engine that is running yet burning a lot of oil and has very low oil pressure isn’t exactly a priority unless it blows up. They didn’t bat an eye about paying an oiler $50 an hour (someone to literally stand next to this engine and add oil every few minutes) to keep it running for the duration of the job.
I put Lucas oil oil stabilizer in my racecar, mind you it's a 50 laps race, 5 laps in the car was way over heated. The gauge was maxed. I ran the rest of the 50 laps, yes car was very hot by the end of the race. All the car did was burn a quart of oil. I started the car the next day and has no knocks, no pinging, nothing. I am positive if I didn't have the Lucas in the oil, that motor would be cooked. I love this product and I sware by it.
Extreme temperatures caused the oil to thin out like normal engine oil or a bit thicker so in your case it helped but daily low rpm cruises on the highway, the engine probably wouldn't last too long
I had a really worn out 3406B that I used Lucas in. It certainly raised the low idle oil pressure. It also seemed to give it more power. I figured that it must have needed oil pressure to work a hydraulic governor or the afbf.
A good film of oil on the piston rings will also help with compression, but will reduce friction and put more power to anything downstream.
What amount did you put per Oil Change?
I started using Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer in my Nissan NV 200 with 130k miles and I noticed it right away. It’s definitely got more power than before. Feel’s like it gained 5-10 hp
It is only good in warm to hot weather situations ....If you live in an area where there is a winter season with it in the engine ,it will make the oil too thick when the engine gets cold and then dry starts area problem..,..
@@VIDSTORAGE I’m in Florida so yeah it works awesome. And when I did the oil change it didn’t seem any thicker
@@VIDSTORAGE since it works so good in my work van I bought a gallon of the Lucas synthetic for my power stroke
@@danadouglass2822 power stroke Ford ? Lucas clearly states on the label to not use it in that engine ... Get the best AMSOIL.
@@VIDSTORAGE the synthetic say’s it’s for the power stroke
So I use Lucas oil in my logging equipment. What I’ve found is our older machines burn oil and this helps to reduce it. When I’m not there to make sure guys are checking oil before they start it gives me peace of mind. One old log loader we have will burn 3-4 gallons of oil between changes. With the Lucas it’s down to under a gallon.
With that said I don’t run it in the machine I run daily or my pickup because I check it and do regular oil changes. My guys on the other hand. Not so much. My two cents. Not worth much but there it is.
Any oil is better than no oil!
I have 1.2m miles on my Detroit 60, started to use Lucas at 600k and still going strong I also noticed reduced engine vibration after using Lucas.
As far as im concerned I would use it on a new engine because it doesn’t need it but I’d definitely recommend it for engines with over 500k. Specially when topping of oil as it will restore some of the biscotti lost by normal engine use
damn I would love some biscotti
@@gnarlytothemaxI knew someone would catch it. This made me laugh hard 😂
Yep, it works great on worn out junk to move it own to the next guy. it's like putting a fresh coat of paint on the worn out engine for the liquid overhaul. It's definitively fun working on engine parts covered in Lucas or similar products.
Aerosol Overhaul
Dupont overhaul!! Lol
Long while ago I drove old fully loaded freightliner up a hill. It jus quit on me. Wouldn't pull at all. Smoked as hell. So I walked on highway to a TA. Got gallon of Lucas stabilizer. After adding it, smoke from stack greatly reduces, power came back, so I were able to continue up that hill. This was my friends truck I drove for, and since then I always had couple of gallons Lucas inside engine. For next 6 months same failure never happened again. That was enough to make me believer.
good points. Lucas oil probably works the best for differentals about the same weight as gear lube and helps the oil stick to gears similar to stp.
Makes it foam up.
Project Farm is very good at doing fair and honest tests. Lucas seems to do very good and does seem to show benefits
Really love watching Project Farm! One thing I like about his show is he is always improving his testing protocols! The results at least shows some insight into the products and the results dispels most of the mysteries of the tested products! A demonstrations is worth more than talk!
Project farms one armed bandit oil tester is legendary snake oil seller.
@@V8Lenny No it allows you to make a informed decision based on test results! But wear is wear and wear additives that work is shows on the test!
@@MMr.NOBODYY I don't think he was calling PF a snake oil salesman, but that rig is exactly what they used to build to sell oil additives and whatnot at county fairs and trade shows.
It's a great tester, but it just tests a part of the oil, which the oil salesman would use to their advantage. A proper test (like what PF does) is use it as a part of an oil test, not the only test.
@@volvo09 I read that dude's comment 5 times and still can't figure out wtf he was trying to say. Not sure how putting a coherent sentence together is so difficult for someone able to use the internet.
You need to watch Project farm on oil stabilizers .
Lucas Oil increases the film strength, and makes the oil “cling” to the metal parts. But it also thickens the oil. So it’s probably not the best in cold areas. One thing I do think is fishy, is that they say you can use it in anything, but then go on to specify "Not for Powerstrokes". Which they've now actually removed.
i use in Canadian winter without a problem, its because it stays on the wear surfaces.
Like your version the best
Correct. But we don't have an analysis of this said product...
what is the level of detergents and additives they have put inside this Lucas Oil Stabilizer ?
@@dfls5069 Y'all wanna send off a sample to Black Stone?
Agreed. Probably a baaaaad idea for turbocharged engines as well.
I did a mix ratio of 70% 15w-40 to 30% Lucas on my 5.9 cummins with 240,000 miles on it and it definitely felt heavier on temperatures under 70F
I'm glad you're not just buying the hype. Lucas does things, but not everyone needs Lucas. It's doesn't just make things better.
One thing about additives is if you don't warm up the motor properly ,,,,soon your turbo will be toast,oil with additives will cavitate when cold.
@@johnhayes1618 Ford had issues with the power stroke injectors, so eventually had to go to a thinner oil to stop foaming in the oil pan. Lucas does make foaming worse.
@@johnhayes1618 600,000 miles my turbos perfect like the day it was born. 20% Lucas and the rest 15w 40 .Lucas DOESNT HURT IT ONLY HELPS, but the truck's gotta be driven ....
For someone who’s got an old truck (gas or diesel) and just wants to bandaid it long enough to get to the repair end (differential whine, engine oil consumption, etc.) I see this as a very viable option. But for anything else, I’d steer clear. Using this product as an additive to supplement oil change intervals and such, I don’t see that really happening. Best thing anyone can do is repair the problem, or to perform routine preventative maintenance properly. But if your someone like me, who has an old Silverado with 183k miles, and the rear diff is starting to whine in cold temps, this’ll do for the meantime. But it still doesn’t solve the fact that I need new bearings
Lucas oil additive is very slippery and sticky….I primarily use it on older engines that may burn oil or motor doesn’t have the greatest oil pressure.
I also use Lucas oil additives to assemble engines. (Only on bearings) works great and doesn’t run off parts if motor sits for awhile!
I’ve also use Lucas trans additive that actually works on a slightly slipping trans (doesn’t fix severe slippage nor broken parts)
Granted it’s a temporary fix but may help extend life till it can be repaired properly.
I use Lucus or moreys oil stabilizer in my 2H toyota diesel engine, I found when I adjust the valves there is still a film of oil between the rocker and valve as apposed to before there was almost none (engine cold), rocker wear is a problem with these old engines.
I've never owned a new car so I've had great success with lucas in general. Keep in mind this product is meant for worn engines which is why so many that use it also get great results. I wouldn't use any additive in a new or fairly new engine or and engine that shows no signs of wear other than maybe a high mileage oil.
Thank you for that info I’ve been using Lucas in my 2006 KWT 600 with a C 15 for quite some time but this video has kind of open my eyes this truck has just under 900,000 miles and on my next oil change I’m going to try to do it without it
I think projectfarm did a video comparing this additive to some other brand of motor honey and found that in his test lucas does have a better friction coefficient and denatures slower than the control (5w30 gas car oil). I'd really like to see a more realistic or standardized test because he runs the friction test with the oil at room temperature, usually only a visual representation of wear is displayed. I use this when the tackiness/extra viscosity is desirable and its something I don't plan on rebuilding. I agree the rest of your arguments.
He tested it in running predator engines, that are air cooled, thats a damn good test
So I did an experiment with oil in a Honda Accord. I started using 15w40 because I could get it free from work. Now keep in mind this engine is recommended to have 10w30. But I thought hey it has 230k on it, so I'm probably not harming anything, and I didn't. But I did notice that it didn't want to build RPM as fast and it seemed a little slower than normal. So after a few oil changes with 15w40 I went back to a 10w30 and sometimes run a 10w 40, Wich by the way, that is why I don't see a big deal in 15w40. After the switch back to standard recommend 10w30 the car seems to build RPM faster and seems to not be as slow or lagging. It was a good test and an eye opener in viscosity. Hope my comments help. Cheers Scott
Very true. Thicker oil will cause more drag on spinning parts and make the engine have to work harder. Which then uses more gas and can increase the operating temperatures of the engine. I drive old 70's and 80's molars. Have 3 of them. They all have the original drive train. Engines never been apart besides timing chains or intakes. I have experimented with many different oils and additives. I have noticed a very noticeable difference especially in my more worn out and low HP 318. When I use the recommended 5w-30 vs say 10w-30 plus a qt of Lucas. With the plain 5w-30 the engine will accelerate MUCH better. Much faster response. Yet the engine will be noisey. Especially when first started cold. And then after being run hard on the highway and the engine is really warm. No knocking just clatter and ticks. So lifters, rocker arms... When I use thick stuff the engine is sluggish. Have to mash the gas hard and wait for the engine to spin up and "catch itself". When started cold it has lifter tick for 10 seconds. But when fully warm the engine is dead silent. It may also make the idle a bit smoother.
It's really a trade off of what your needs are. But typically I would say most engines should have well passed 150k miles before any additives to thicken the oil are going to have more pros than cons.
Another thing that isn't mentioned much is with older card anyways if you study the owners manuals they have a chart that shows what oil to use based on what outside temperatures are. So say in the winter when it is mostly 40degree and colder it tells you to use 5w-30 or 10w30 , 10w-40. Then in the summer when it's hot out and mostly above 70 degrees. It says use 10w-30 all the way up to a 20w-50. This is how recommendations used to be. So it was left up to you to decide what worked best in your car. But advised to go thin when cold and thick when hot. And increase the thickness when hot more when the engine was older. New cars say passed the 1990's do not have recommendations like this. For two main reasons. The thicker oils cause the engine to work harder ( despite possibly correcting other issues) this makes you use more gas. And the government is all into fuel efficiency standards. So they won't allow the manufactures to recommend something that will decrease fuel efficiency. The next reason is modern engines have gradually better and better tolerances between parts. They are built much more precise and tight fighting. (To increase efficiency partly). So thicker oils are not able to be used safely in them. Because even in a high mileage worn engine. The clearance may still be tighter than in a brand new antique engine.
@@ron1836 Try 5L of LiquiMoly 0w40 Synthoil. It not really flowing as well as a 0 weight ever. But it is flowing down to very cold temps in the winter while protecting well under heat. It has very good clinging to metal after hours and reduces friction. I buy at NAPA for 50 bucks so its not cheap but it's good.
@@jamesmedina2062 I'll have to check it out. I have tried MANY different oil\additive\filter combinations over the years in quite a few vastly different vehicles. I have seen and heard about liquimoly but never tried it or the additives. I believe the only place that has a few jugs of the oil in my small town is an advance auto. Our napa doesn't have shit. It's a small local store with an inch of dust on the shelves.
I would say possibly the only draw backs to using it in old worn out carbureted v 8's would be maybe making leaks worse and also breaking up too much sludge too quickly. But I have used royal purple and Mobil 1 in !y old 318 Chrysler daily driver and haven't had issues. The engine was badly neglected before I had it. Like from the appearance when I had the intake off maybe the previous owner did 1 oil change every 30k miles bad! Haha. So even though 318's are known to usually make it to over 200k miles without big problems this engine is about whipped at 135k. I usually end up using something like Lucas, stop, hyper lube... Because the engine is making noise with regular oil and I don't feel comfortable hearing all that! Haha.
One last thing I wanna say is oil filter types and brands can make a noticable difference in oil pressures too. I found this evident on a 2001 tundra I had. The oil pressure gauge was lower after I changed the oil once and used a different filter than usual.. (can't remember brand) then I bought an actual Toyota oil filter the next time and it gave it atleast another 4-5 psi oil pressure.
@@ron1836 the Toyota filter is nearly identical to the Honda one and they both allow sufficient flow. I wish more vehicles had an oil pressure gauge to check these things. Sludge is not good. You want to get it out at some point probably idling with a cleaner product in the engine like diesel or a designed cleaner. But if its tired can you rebuild it easily? I would guess you have lots of room to work on it, and not many wire looms like modern cars. You can also clean manually removing valve covers. I dread restarting my 351C because it has sat for over 10 years but hopefully I can prime it and get oil into bearings and the rings before firing it up again. I remember the fuel pooling on floor of the intake manifold but the carburetor only might add to dry carbon on pistons or a little dilution of the oil. I am thinking of trying a new Performer RPM intake but before that I am supposed to paint it and change transmission to a manual! At least thats the plan.
Finally someone that speaks the truth, based in logic and knowledge.
Sometimes logical doesn't equal facts
I have used Lucas Oil Stableizer in several vehicles. A 1998 Chrysler Concord. It was smoking, changed oil (137,000 miles) added a quart of Lucas and in about a week it stopped smoking, and ran a little smoother. I used it in an 88, Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6. Had about 10,000 miles on a complete reman, it helped get better fuel mileage, by .1 MPG, not much but something. I used it in a Cummins N14 with 1 .2 million miles and it helped get .25 MPG not much, but on 100,000 miles a year it helped a bunch. I also used Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner, combined with the oil Stableizer, I think it helped. Just my opinion and Not the opinion of this channel or its supporters.
Lucas also makes an oil stop leak, I have used it in both big diesel, and gas engines. It does work like Lucas claims.
I might use this in my "cow pasture truck" It has a Ford 302 that has worn bearings such that I run straight 40 wgt. in the engine to keep the oil pressure up. Adding this stuff to an engine that really needs rebuilding might raise my oil pressure more.😄
Pressure is measured as resistance to flow. If your pressure is too low, you may have internal oil pump leakage. If it is above spec, you may have blockage from crap or a spun bearing?
I've use a similar product called "Morey's" since about 1985, in all of my vehicles, motorbikes, cars, 4x4 etc, I've only ever rebuild my Harley shovel head, the 4x4 I own now is a land cruiser it's done 700.000 now, owned for 23 years and has not been touched, and yes it mixes with auto trans oil(power steering) and gear oil etc very well and have had big success with them as well, diffs, transfer, swivel hubs etc are still all original even wheel bearings have not needed replacing, same with the Landover I used to own and all the other ones, my Vmax has way over 100k and has not needed even a valve adjustment!
Now, all of my vehicles are before 2000 so I could not recommend the product for newer vehicles with very tight clearances because I do not have any experience with them but for older, let's say mid nineties and before certainly.
I don't know what the difference is between the Lucas and Morey's product I hear they are very similar. It works for me!
Slick 50 was the space age technology in the 80's!
My Toyota dealer warned me not to use any oil thickeners as is will cause problems with the variable valve train. They said that the lifters have a extremely small oil passage and it could be too thick to enter and exit the passage causing oil starvation and increased wear and possibly failure. They also advised me that it would or could void the warranty should they suspect that an additive was used. They routinely do oil analysis at a local lab when they suspect the additive was responsible for the failure! They also warned me not to use any zinc containing additives. I don’t know if it was fear mongering I guess or the truth! The fear of losing a warranty is enough to stop me from using any additives not approved by Toyota. I had a Peugeot 1981 504D, the dealer installed a Marvel Mystery Oil Injector! (Plastic container with a hose to the fuel oil filter and separator.) I religiously maintained the oil level and did the routine oil changes every 3000 miles. I got over 267,000 miles on the car with no engine problems! Every other part either rusted or fell off! Love that car as it was comfortable to drive and the front seats turned in to beds!
Lucas is an oil thickener only. It has zero anti wear addative or detergents. It dilutes the addative in the oil which decreases it's ability to prevent wear and clean.
Excellent answer and very true statement
Sounds like we may agree 😊
Some suspect it has caused failures due to increasing aeration of oil, in some engines.
It's a very overpriced oil thickener too. If I wanted a thicker oil, I'd just buy a thicker oil.
I agree, I add a gallon in my ISX to boost oil pressure slightly and I also add some zinc to the oil because I wiped out a few camshafts in my previous ISX engine. I wouldn't run Lucas in a new or fresh engine.
I bought a 1997 12V Cummins . It ran like crap when I first bought it in 2014 even after changing the oil 3 times. THE FIRST TIME I PUT LUCUS IN IT .I HAVE NOT HAD 1 PROBLEM OUT OF THAT TRUCK AND IT COMPLETELY STOCK !! THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAD IS THROTTLE ASSEMBLY FAILED AND I HAD TO REPLACE IT ! I ALMOST HAVE 450,000 MILES ON IT ! IT STILL RUNS GREAT , AND FUEL MILEAGE IS WAY BETTER THEN MY 6.7 BECAUSE OF LUCUS FUEL ADDITIVE!! I LOVE LUCUS !!!
I have to bring up a few points on this one. Of course when an engine is new, never use anything except what the engine is designed for by the engineers who designed it. But as you said yourself, the older an engine gets, the more wear it has, and the larger the clearances will be in the bearings, then you use the thicker additives to fill those gaps. When you mentioned the knocking, you didn't think about how oil works. By using thicker oil and reducing the knock, you are reducing the amount of force that is being applied to the bearings. It would be like diving into the shallow end of a pool. The knock would be your head hitting the bottom. But if you were to use jelly in the pool instead of water, then you avoid the knock, which means you don't hit the bottom, and don't have the damage. The thicker oil cushions the bearings and prevents them from hitting their surfaces together, thereby preventing further wear and making the engine last longer, or extending the engine life. If Lucas oil additive is used when the engine is worn, someone can get a little more life out of their engine, an use that time to save up for the repairs.
I don't think you thought about how oil works...If you have a knock you ain't fixing anything by pouring shit into the crankcase...Amateur
@@jaredmayer3960
Do me a favor, take a hammer and hit the flat part of an anvil, then start placing substances on the anvil with increasing viscosity and hit it again with each substance. Use water, then WD-40, then motor oil, then gear oil, then grease. Then come back and tell me which one does a better job of preventing the hammer from having metal to metal contact, and which one is quieter.
@@davidscott5903 favour? Nah I’m good. You can’t fix crankshaft journal to rod bearing allowance issues with shit you dump in the crankcase. Period. Fuct is fuct. You can smash stoddard solvent on an anvil for me all day. I don’t do stupid things.
@@jaredmayer3960
You are just afraid of learning something.
@@davidscott5903 nope. You’d have more oil flow through the fuct bearing and you’d be starving the other bearings. When you ascend to mechanical greatness you'll learn something. Rod knock can’t be fixed with additives. Period. It’s still not mechanically good no matter what kind of bullshit you’re spewing bud.
I've never used that stuff. I have used STP to bring back some viscosity in my brother's Nova. He didn't check the oil or change it. I still use STP as a prelube, I use what is handy. Other than that I don't use the stuff. Good video. A lot of people need to see this. My brother for one.
I agree with just about everything you said. I Just want to point out though so there's no confusion that there is no "zero weight" oil the first number on the viscosity rating, the number that's followed by a W (I.E 10w-30) is not the weight of the oil, the W stands for winter, not weight. It's the oils flow rating during
winter/cold weather. Other than that great video. At the end of the day I feel it's best to just use a high quality oil as opposed to using aftermarket additives.
I thought the 10w was the weight per gallon and 30 vis. Is how long it takes to drain a at. By timimg it
This 10w-30 rating is just a old school rating system for oil. The best oil has the lowest change of oil viscosity over the operating temperature of climate and engine temperatures. So a 0w-50 is a better oil than a 10w-30 or whatever 30 “weight”. The key is the viscosity index of the oil. This is a scale that maps the change of the oil viscosity. Basically buy a wider range of oil temp rating if your conditions demand it. If not, save money if you only run in a small part of the country with stable temperatures.
@@Adscam wrong, it's not an "old school rating system" it's the universal standard as determined by the society of automotive engineers. And no ideally you don't simply want an oil that has minimal viscosity change you want an oil that has the correct winter flow rating for the climate you're operating in and the correct operating temperature viscosity for the engine. There's no "One size fits all motor oil" however if what you state is completely wrong as there is a bigger viscosity difference between a modern 0w30 oil than there is between an old school 10w30
@@js6729 Citation please
@@js6729 I will go research. May you suggest where I may start. Not pay-walled. Tks
I've been using this product for so many years and never have any problem with it I personally do recommend it but to each his own
Finally someone who recognizes oil additives for what they are. The only satisfaction you get is a lighter wallet. I’ve only used HDEO in my 6.7L Cummins Ram. It’s all I plan on using.
Your ram is a great pygmy 🐐. Lol. Joking. I hope your 24v serves you well for decades.
Sooooo what's your odometttterrr at? I gots bout 600,000 commercial pulling miles Mine gets Lucas 20% with every oil change. 2014 Ram dulley 6.7 as well , another thing lighter wallet don't hold no water high miles does juuuuust a sayin .......
Panacea,,,,love it !! Very interesting video. My Dad always said the major oil manufacturers know much more than the aftermarket guys.
They do thousands of hours of testing on dynos to test their oil and additive packages. I'm sticking with straight Shell Rotella 4 for my 6NZ. I do remember Cat did sell an oil additive years back ???
Thanks and take care !!
I tried Lucas, it did reduce the leaking and such till I got the old cat into the shop but it was a noticeable issue with cold starts. It made plugging in the heater a absolute must, I’d recommend it as a aid to help get the truck back to your regular shop or a few weeks till planned time off or something but I would not recommend for long term use.
Put some Lucas trans additive in my truck was very expensive! Made absolutely no difference! On the label claimed it 30 things it would do to ( repair) your trans looked exactly like STP took forever to get into trans . That’s the last time I’ll ever waste my money on Lucas products. Rislone is the only engine additive I’ve used for a noisy hydraulic lifter or lifters worked great!!!
Whenever a company spends a lot on advertising it makes me wary. Lucas spends a lot. I would rather pay for engineering and materials. But moreso the issue is that you need the balance between speed of lubrication and film strength(thickness). Too thick not good.
G'day,
I totally agree with your comments ,
however ,,i feel perhaps the reality may have been overlooked.
Stabiliser can be used in gearboxs, pumps, transfers differentials, hydraulics, ect ect ,so has.many other uses.
Lucas Oils know any smoking vehical can be defected or fined hundreds for polluting . They also know drivers will use Lucas oil stabiliser to avoid fines and prolong engine life until they can repair or replace said vehicle.
Lucas are after market share of those polluting vehicals , so realisticly Lucas are not aiming the product at new or performance vehicals.
Finally ,, Lucas are careful to use language that maximises their matket share, even if its not a performance product.
Lucas also give suggested dilution rates ,
How can it cool better ,,by prolonging the time it runs down a surface ,, in theory will allow more heat transfer .
Cool vid ,
Respect
from
Down Under
I don't use it in the engine since it's not worn and I prefer frequent service. But I do use it in the portal boxes since I use 70W140 synth gear oil. I was having issues at higher speeds where the top of the 140mm seals would wear out. I suspected the thinner synthetic wasn't climbing the wear ring all the way. Never had another seal fail after adding 20% Lucas to the 75w140
I have a logging business and was going through final drives on my John deer dozers common problem for them the main top gear and bearing would get starved for oil i started using straight lucas oil stabilizer in all of my final drives instead of gear oil and never had a problem after that
I agree with CAT on this one...just follow the manufacturers recommendations. Manufacturers pay engineers to figure all this out and we may be pretty good at turning wrenches but we are not engineers and they are not us. I'd like to have them collaborate a bit more on design so when a wrench needs turned I don't need smaller hands or an extra joint in my arm. Maybe we should run chainsaw bar oil in our engines as they have a lot of tacifiers but it also needs to hang onto the chain and around the nose of the bar to get to the underside of the bar where it's needed, not many areas of my engine that needs that. A note on oil pressure that my newly rebuilt 12 valve Cummins (in my F350) had 70 psi and I could get 500 miles on a tank of fuel...after 30,000 miles I could consistently get 600 plus miles on a tank but at 55 psi. I'm sure the engine limbered up and clearances opened a tiny bit. As always good video Josh!
They are also in the parts business as well
engineers also design in planned life spans so that you will be back for a new one sooner than later.
I just posted a review on the Lucas web reviews which is too long to re type...BEWARE !!! over a period of time with regular use it caused a sludge build up that plugged my engine oil pick up tube screen !!!! It is a good assembly lube ONLY !!!! but not a good product for regular use. YOU HAVE BEEN ADVISED......
I admit to using this in only air-cooled engines. 20% ish. I keep my mowers etc.engines (where straight weight oil is the norm).
The horrible tolerances,assembly and quality overall aside, they stay running well past the life of the rest of the machine.
My mower engines outlast the machines they're on and I just use the cheapest oil I can find and change it when it turns black.
We only ever used 10w30 in our small gas engines. One push mower we got brand new in 1996 used it until 2009 when I wanted to rebuild it in small gas engines class in high school. Very little wear in it. Only problem was the carb was worn and needed an overhaul. No idea on the hours but it had to be close to 500+ hours on it. Commercial mowers that are generally now watercooled tend to last about 3000 hours before overhaul. Per the Kawasaki manual on these machines.
Mud mower guys use it along with gear oil to replace the grease the gearboxes are usually filled with.
I don't use mine alot ,but it does run about 5x it's intended input speed and it's been goin for 5-6yrs now.
@@Ratkill9000 check out the Briggs engine they say doesn't need an oil change.
Intended usage is 45mins a week for 4-5mo a year for 15yrs.
I'll attest to that ,as I had one I never changed the oil for 10yrs and it still ran fine when I gave it away and it wasn't one of those engines.
Why waste money on a 79$ push mower that lasted a season by changing the oil?
I would have paid more for a company to come in and do it ,so I'm already ahead of the game.
I use lucas 2 stroke oil in my mower, change the oil every time I mow
Ah lucas, the mechanic genie in a bottle that you summon when your chevy decides to start acting up
As a certified master Cat engine rebuilder since 1988 I can tell you NEVER , NEVER, NEVER EVER use Lucas on the first startup on a rebuilt engine. Pre -lube the engine with standard engine oil. Also NEVER add Lucas till the fourth oil change. Lucas oil WILL NOT ALLOW the PISTION RINGS TO MATE TO THE CYLINDER LINERS. This WILL cause EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION. Lucas oil BONDS/COATS to metal. Pistion rings must mate to the cylinder walls. ALSO BEWARE SOME AFTERMARKET OIL ADDITIVES THEY HAVE CHEMICALS THAT DAMAGE / DRYOUT O-RINGS AND SEALS INSIDE THE ENGINE. This includes crankshaft seals and liner o-rings.
Thanks Phil! 👍🏻
yep its a great friction modifier and can save your ass
So, is it your opinion that this does reduce friction?
@@johndunn9819 bit more than an opnion
@@thebad300 I'm going to take your word on it. My dad always used STP and had "good results". His vehicles ran and lasted a long time. Of course, there's no way of telling how long they would have lasted had he not used the additive. Kinda like Lucas'. I always give it a minute to warm up a little especially in the winter. I take it real easy 'til it reaches operating temperature because I can see how cold thick oil might not get to the appropriate places in time while it's warming up. Thanks for your insight.
I use all of Lucas oils products, and have been since they came on the market, I have a 56 yr old car, and two 24 year old cars, they all run excellent with 0 mechanical issues, and I attribute that to Lucas. 1 is a diesel over 200k, it passes California smog II with flying colors, so do my other gas ICE cars.
I use the Lucas SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer, it isn't really any thicker than engine oil, and gives the oil a significantly slipperer feel as well as tackiness.
Does it do anything?
I have a 1995 Volvo 5 cylinder turbo that I picked up cheap.
It had a lot of blowby, so much that the crank case ventilation system could not control it even after replacing the entire system.
The engine smoked considerably, I put one quart in it one day, 15 miles down the road way less smoke. Not only that, no more oil all over the engine.
Does it work? Well it freed up the sticky rings. You decide
I never thought about clearance and oil pressure in this way, thank you very informative.
My boss bought me an awesome 378 peterbilt at auction. MXS Cat. Massive blow by. I milked her for a year with a bit of Lucas. Reason being she had 3 cylinders with all rings damaged and it kept the oil from breaking down as bad. She is now platinum inframed and she will have 0 Lucas in her. Why? Lucas aint bad stuff at all. A well built engine does not need such things.
You are very correct. Use it when the engine needs it, but not when it doesn't!
My 7.3 powerstroke requires 15qts of oil for a sump oil change and to prefill the oil filter. There's another 3qts in the high pressure oil system in the heads. I change oil and filter at 4000-5000 miles depends on my use. When I started using it I add 3qts of Lucas oil stabilizer, 20 percent, and I can tell you after driving around after you do your change out put around 30 50 miles to mix it all together the injectors are quiter, reduced smoke when started AND fires up better on a cold start. I did not start using Lucas oil stabilizer to fix any problems or noises w the truck I started using to help w longevity. Been using it over a year now and when I went without it on a change interval I could tell it ran different and started different. This my own experience and have been doing it on the truck for that last 25,000 miles.
the bottle say do not use in ford power stroke.
@@viking.200 I've gone through several gallon jugs of Lucas and 1qt bottles. None have said not to use in powerstrokes.
@@dylanhicks7996 look at 2.19 say on the bottle it is because power strokes should have tighter tolerances.
@@viking.200 I know it does on the video but on the bottles and jugs it does not say that. Can argue about labels all day but I have actual years of experience using it in my 7.3 powerstroke and has done nothing but make the truck quieter, idle smooth and start better in cold weather cold starts. Not to mention the "7.3 powerstroke" isnt actually made by ford and not really a "powerstroke" it's by international and real name is T444E so maybe the warning online is right for later model "powerstrokes" but the 7.3 is nothing relatable to its predecessors other than the fact that they're HEUI diesel engines.
Loved the testimonials from people who use oil treatments and have never had a problem, so therefore they assert oil treatments work. There’s a Bert & Ernie skit on an old episode of Sesame Street where Bert walks in and Ernie is holding a banana in his ear. Bert asks why the Banana in your ear. Ernie says, “I’m keeping the alligators away from Sesame Street”. Bert says, “There are no alligators on Sesame Street!” Ernie replies, “See, it’s working”. This is a lesson for kids on the fallacy of Negative Evidence. Lucas makes millions from people who never learned the lesson.
I like your reasoning there Robert. People get pretty defensive about this product for some reason. I'm just pointing out the logic about their claims and lack of any studies done by this company. Of course, you can use whatever you want in your engine, but I don't think there are many good reasons to use this product.
I'm not a car mechanic, but it makes a lot of sense what you're saying. Thanks for this info. 👍
I've used Lucas for assembling LSx engine and it has been great. Substantially cheaper than "Engine Assembly Lubes" and it sticks to the bearings so good Brake/parts cleaner has a hard time removing It.
That's actually a great idea! may consider that as I'm getting ready to assemble a 6.5 LS stroker.
@@christophermix6845 I've been using it for years. You can let the engine sit for 2 years and pull the main caps off and the stuff is stuck to the bearings like honey. Soon as you fire it up and oil gets to the bearings it mixes in no problem.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 sounds better than cam lube that stuff is sticky but will drip off pretty fast. My only fear would be the additives in lucas might not let the rings seat good due to slickness.
@@christophermix6845 I've never used it to coat rings.
I use ATF or cheap 5w30 to coat cylinder walls and ring packs.
@@nocturnalspecialties642 gotcha I was just wondering if maybe the amount from the bearings would be enough to affect it mixing with the oil. But probably not though if you haven't had any issues with burning oil.
I drive a 1997 Toyota 4runner. I added it in within moments, I literally heard my valve train become quieter. It seems to run a little bit smoother, but that is most likely a placebo. However, I can physically show a difference in audible noise Before & After running Lucas oil.
My t56 gearbox has a damaged synchro but when i add this product and after its warm my box shifts like it’s brand new so this product definitely does work
My dad’s dodge ram 1500 5.7l hemmi had an annoying tick, Lucas oil stabilizer fixed that, I use 6qts of full synthetic oil and 1 Qt of Lucas
Yup, that's pretty close! I use 6.5 qts mobil 1 5/30, and a half quart Lucas for synthetic oil. It keeps a little bit more zinc on the internals
I have used Lucas in various applications thru the yrs. Not every vehicle but several. Never had any issues. But I was at my local family owned oil change shop one day. A guy I know had a 1st generation Kia Sportage. After 100K he'd been using Lucas at every oil change. On this day, there was a mix up between him & the shop owner. The guy thought his Kia was done & backed it out of the bay & left it running because it was middle of winter. He came inside to pay & got to talking with all us inside. Long story short, they realized his vehicle never had any oil put back in after the draining. His Kia ran in freezing temps for at least 15 minutes WITHOUT any oil in it & was running smooth as silk when they shut it off. The shop owner filled it with oil & 1 Qt Lucas like he'd done for several times b4. That guy drove that Kia everyday for yrs after that & never did have a engine issue. Seen it with my own eyes... that really showed me what Lucas is.
💯💯💯💯💯 works‼️‼️‼️….Accidentally Ran my C15 without Coolant until it got Hot and Shut Down…Few days later started getting Low oil Pressure flashing.Whenever I would let the truck idle while I chain up my Flatbed loads it would start Smoking Terribly….I Changed the oil to see if that would Resolve the Problem but it “DID NOT”….However a few days later I put a Gallon of the Lucas oil Stabilizer.Smoked for Mayne the first 3 miles them been good ever since 💯
Best place for Lucas is as a lubrication for plastic gears, operated by a hand crank, inside clear plastic, on a parts store counter.
Lol 🤣
Lucas makes the oil look visibly cleaner on the dip stick when I check mine compared to when I didn't use it. So I think it must be doing something.