I have Industrial grade Nema 14-50 GFCI installed by electrician and randomly turns off EV breaker when it’s not charging or charger not plugged in. I was advised to do hardwired instead of Nema 14-50 due to GFCI incompatibility between outlet and EV charger. I want to know why some people Never had such issue ?
@@shahvatsal2391986 You are not alone. I had the same problem with my GFCI receptacle used to charge my Tesla. That means two GFCI protection on the same circuit and that caused the problem. I believe the charger has its own GFCI protection. I replaced the receptacle to regular one and since then that the problem never happened again.
The 9450 you linked to it seems some receiving them do not have the green EV logo. I assume these are just older models. Are they the same? As in still good for EV charging?
This is one of the best 14-50 EV install videos I have ever seen. I have installed a bunch of different EV charging setups over the years and you have nailed every important point. Whatever the homeowner is paying for this job is worth every penny. Kudos!
Awesome. Absolutely the best EV charger/circuit install video on TH-cam. And I’ve watched a lot over the past few years. Great job with the equipment picks-especially with the RV receptacle box, Hubbel receptacle, EMT, and flex conduit. And thank you for showing everyone that you torque your connections. Only other thing to include would be a load calculation-especially when you said you installed 2 EV chargers and another circuit for the garage.
Really appreciate the input! Yeah, I definitely want to do another video on load calcs for EV chargers. That might be my next one. There’s a bit that goes into it and I think that information would be super helpful with so many people installing EV chargers these days.
You are performing a great service including your roccomendation about checking the tightness of all the older circuits in breaker box. I am not a professional but recently added a convenience Outlet on its own circuit into my garage so I had more power at my workbench. Since I had the power off, just by chance, I decided to check tightness of all my ground connections and realized several of them were loose. I then went through the whole box (with the power off) and tightened up several more that were attached to Breakers that were loose. The person that installed the panel had not torqued the breakers when he installed it. He is a friend of mine ( a licensed electrician with years of experience) so I called him and he said back then they didn't have a torque specification for those attachments but they now commonly torque all their connections. Copper is malleable and it does deform when under pressure so I assume that's the process that allows some of those connections to loosen. It is probably why they now specify torque settings for the screws so the copper doesn't deform enough to loosen the connection. Based on what has been said to me I would suggest that most people have a trained person go back through and retorque all their connections in their panel. You have done an incredible service and I would hire you in a minute but I live far away from you. Keep up your excellent work. Just that one suggestion to check for loose connections in your presentation may have saved a hot connection in many panels if it is followed. While everything in my panel is now tight, I am going to try to look up torque specifications and one afternoon go through and check that everything is torqued properly. As you said most circuits don't draw very much current but also you never know when somebody will plug in a hair dryer or a plug-in heater or some other appliance that draws a lot of power and cause a problem with a loose connection.
@@alaneverett9767 This is true . Connections loosen up on their own, either vibration, thermal cycling, etc. Tighten to spec and check on a regular schedule with torque wrench and IR temp measurement.
THANK YOU for being so vocal about a proper receptacle. I’m a fan of hardwire now, but if you’re doing a NEMA 14-50, spend the $50 on a Hubble! I’m no electrician, but I’ve seen too many videos of fried cheap NEMA 14-50 receptacles!!
Your editing and content are top notch! Too many creators chit chat or take no time to edit out the crap. Thanks for sharing your obvious knowledge and experience. I’m using these videos so I can be intelligent when speaking with my own licensed tradesmen and women when we do our upcoming build. Your videos give me confidence to have those conversations and quality check items to review with my hired pro. Thank you!
This may have saved us a lot of $$ and potentially worse . I saw this before helping my son install his EV outlet. An electrical contractor had already done ours and installed a non-EV rated outlet. By the time I replaced it, it was already scored and gray. Thanks for the VALUABLE lesson!
People are going to be all over your ass for Electrical safety, Telling you just get it done. but I applaud it. That is the type of journeyman I would want teaching me as an apprentice.
😂 I’m sure they will but I don’t really care for a second. The first time a panel blows up in their face they’ll start following safety protocols. Thanks for the comment Jonathan. Good to hear from you!
@@landerselectricI started back in 1970 before OSHA, mandatory PPE & safety rules. After I plugged in a old 480 volt twist lock plug with non dead front. ( Came with a flimsy piece of cardboard or plastic that always fell off. Any way I did not see that a few strands came off of the screw. Small flash that burnt all the hair off my knuckles - partially up my arm. Had to pick.out small pieces of copper out of my skin. After that always wore safety glasses and replaced over 30 of these dangerous plugs. The 120 volt non dead front male plugs were outlawed around 1971 but scum bag lying cheating communist china still made them for next 20 years. Only flee markets and some fly by night hardware stores sold them.
I tell you what those that have a trade skill, kudos to you, man. I'm a computer engineer, but what electricians do is still something special and unique.
Listen to this man, people. He knows what he's talking about. Especially about not using a cheap 240V receptacle. Those are designed for the low duty cycle of your cloths dryer. They were never meant for an EV charger, and will NOT take the load.
I don’t own a EV, or a house with a garage, and know nothing about electrical work. But I loved every minute of this video. I’m very OCD, and seeing you take the time to do things the right way really speaks volumes about your service. Whatever your salary is it should be doubled.
Learned some good stuff, the looping of the wires in the junction box, and checking all the connections in the main panel. Also cleaning the buss connector and putting the breaker on and off several times, good stuff.
I’m not an electrician but we recently purchased a Tesla and I am looking to have a level 2 charger installed so after watching this video I I have some knowledge on what to look for when having one installed in the future. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great work
I'm a general contractor that does all parts of the trade including electrical. I have installed a few outlets for EV chargers but you showed me a few good tricks!
Thanks for the video. I do have a couple comments though: don't use a steel brush if the bus and stabs are tin plated which is usually the case these days whether copper or aluminum bus. The steel brush is against all the manufactures recommendations for plated buses as it damages the surfaces that were meant to prevent galvanic corrosion (i.e., dissimilar metal that are exposed to each other.) Also, rather than changing breakers, use Scotch-Brite pads to shine up the stabs; they won't do any damage but will provide a clean and low impedance connection for the new breakers.
I just finished trade school for electrical few months ago and watching your vids helps expand my knowledge on how to do jobs like this and all the other stuff you do like panel upgrades and all that. I appreciate all the vids and teaching💯
I’m a freshie apprentice 4 months in and im struggling to learn and to get experience at work cuz of my pos lead lol, i hope some day i come across a Lead thats just as Great as you 🙏 overall thank you for the videos, i’m learning alot thanks to you bossman. Every detail and effort you put in shows alot of love for what you do. I admire you bossman.
Great video! Only one minor point - the holes you drill in the box panel for the 8-32 screws to mount the receptacle do not need to be tapped, and probably shouldn't. You want the screws to draw the Hubble receptacle tight up to the back of the panel. If both holes are tapped then there's a chance that the screw head will bottom out without drawing the receptacle flange tight against the back of the panel because there's an extra thread or two in the way. Just drill the panel holes big enough to pass the 8-32 screws and tap the flange holes from 6-32 to 8-32 separately.
This is a really informative video. I just got my first EV and this has given me many talking points when discussing the 60A hard wire install for my EVSE with my local electrician. Thanks.
One of the best EV connection point installations I've seen. My Tesla connector was also installed properly and has been flawless for 5 years. Folks should understand that these are NOT chargers (all EVs have the charger built into them). These are merely "receptacles" allowing an electrical connection to the onboard EV charger.
Beautiful work BUT I did catch one problem with the install. It does does not have GFCI protection as required by NEC 625.54. I think you put it on a quadplex breaker that does not offer GFCI protection. I know it adds an extra $200 to the materials, but code requires GFCI protection for EV charging. I definitely would've used an RV box IF the charger were exposed outside or if it was going in an open car port. For an enclosed garage, I would've seen no problem with using a deep 1900 or a 4-11/16 box with an industrial cover. I personally would've fished #6/3 Romex from the panel to a recessed receptacle inside the wall in the direct vicinity of the panel instead of using surface mounted conduit & box. The chargers usually have a 6-8 ft power cord plus an additional 20 ft output cable which would still allow it to reach pretty much anywhere inside the garage to charge. I did learn that standard 14-50 NEMA plugs are not for EV charging. I always bought the EV receptacles, but I thought that it was only marketing. I thought the only difference between 14-50 NEMA stove receptacles and 14-50 EV receptacles was may corrosion resistant terminals for wet location use.
I'm an electrician too (primarily new construction) and I still learned from this video. The trick you used with the wire to install the FMCA was neat and I'm sure I will use it, but this is the first time ever heard/considered that the very thin old film build-up on the line bus bar fingers could cause improper contact with new breakers. Now it seems obvious, so I'm definitely keeping that tip in mind from now on. Nice work!
@@landerselectric ... Well, you may have just saved me several thousand dollars. It's only been 2 weeks since my comment and I just encountered the breaker issue in my own home. I bought a 1980 house this year and the home's well was installed about 20 years ago. They must have plopped a breaker in over some grime because I was installing a new circuit and decided to check out the contacts of the Square D Homeline breakers (Challenger panel) and low and behold there was evidence of arcing between the fingers of the panel and breaker's line side tabs (single pole). The back of the breaker was discolored with that bluish spiderweb looking effect and the breaker's line-side clamping mechanism + the bus bar of the panel had sputtered metal where the breaker tack welded itself onto the bus bar. I proceeded to remove and inspect all breakers, clean the bus bars, bought a new breaker for the well and made sure to leave the space with the damaged bus bar finger empty (continuity of bar is good, just the one bad finger). Seriously, thanks a ton!
Thank you for emphasizing the NEMA 14-50R receptacle needing to be Industrial Grade for Continuous EV charging...Glad there are still competent Electricians out there, Subscribed! That knockout tool is awesome as well, did not know they existed, I had the same issue looking for a box with the correct size to fit the Hubbell 14-50R.
HOPE you have the opportunity to TRAIN others. You do a superb job detailing each facet of the installation. Enjoyed your video even though I'll never have an EV.
Good to see a solid connection from the panel to the outlet. I've seen people post pics saying...what is this box it's smoking and melted... And found out their electrician put a disconnect on the line for whatever reason like for a heat pump or pool motor.
Great video and excellent work, but a few corrections. 11:50 each side of the 240v outlet is 120v to ground, just like the outlets in the house but I do like protecting it with the cover anyway because the outlet doesn't have ground fault, only the EVSE itself does. And 2nd, 13:21 the quality of the outlet and how hot it gets cannot do damage to the breaker, impossible. The only reason the breaker gets damaged is either a faulty breaker, undersized, corrosion or most commonly the wire screw wasn't tightened to the proper torque but either would happen because of the current draw of the EV, and not the quality of the outlet. Even if the outlet melted so much the wires shorted, it would just trip the breaker. A common mistake by DIYers is to not torque the breaker to the manufacture's specs on the side of it. It's way more than most people realize. Even my house that was installed my a certified electrician had every single breaker torqued to way less than 1/2 of what the specs are. Also excellent tip on the wire size and type but you might mention length. At 60 amps, 6 awg wire is chewing up about a watt per foot or 55W in the wire itself on a 50ft run even though the insulation can handle it. It looks like your run was short through the wall so it wouldn't matter. 34:46 Having the outlet mounted to the faceplate to torque the screws is crucial. It's really hard to hold the outlet and torque it. And I love you re-torque all the breakers, that's super quality work there!
Thank you. I got blasted on Reddit for well over a year mostly by electricians insisting what you said about receptacles is BS. Finally Leviton has acknowledged it. HOWEVER: the BEST receptacle for EV charging is NO receptacle; hardwire if at all possible. It safer and cheaper.
@ Good chargers like the one I recommend below are about $500. The extra neutral, the rv box, and the receptacle are about $120. Labor is the same. amzn.to/4hmtOms
I just subscribed to your channel, and I like how you explain every detail in your videos, please keep sharing your knowledge/experience. Im an apprentice in residential and all your content is very helpful and informative. Thank you so very much sir!
Very professional and informative video! I was always told when strapping conduit to have the screw hole of the strap on the bottom and the "U" part of the strap on top 27:40
Great content! Thank you for confirming that the Hubble 9450A is worth the splurge. Your explanation is consistent and makes for great content. Though I find it troubling that you described a ground rod as a potentially a piece of rebar. I also live in San Diego County, and having upgraded to 200 AMP box, know that a ground rod is more than a piece of rebar, at least per local code. (I will bet this is quite variable per local codes, but a piece of rebar per your suggestion? ) The new ground rod required for my upgraded box is much thicker than the rod which supported the initial 100 AMP service panel. It is a 6 ft rod that took two men to drive into our clay soil and then wire. Since then, our utilities have been placed under ground and solar has been added without question once the grounding was confirmed. With due respect, perhaps a piece of rebar as a ground rod will pass elsewhere, but not likely everywhere.
I appreciate your genuine concern. The rebar that I was referring to is not a ground rod as you said. Most homes built in San Diego have what’s called a ufer ground. This piece of rebar was tied in with the rest of the rebar in the concrete foundation of the building and stubs up through the slab right underneath the electrical panel in the wall. This piece of rebar is usually a 5/8 in diameter piece of rebar. This is the same diameter as the two ground rods you are speaking of. When we do electrical panel upgrades in San Diego, if there is a ufer, a piece of rebar coming out of the slab with an existing ground wire tied to it. You are allowed to tie your new bonding wire to that rebar. If you cannot find that piece of rebar that is coming out of the footing underneath the electrical panel in the wall, you must drive to ground rods outside of the wall, so the inspectors can see them. Please forgive me as I should’ve been more clear on this in the video Hope that helps!
This was good to see. I plan on having a electrician install a EV charge outlet. It's always interesting to watch craft workers doing their thing. This will also let me ask for certain parts.
@@landerselectric I'll ask questions of the electricians while he/she is looking around to figure out a price. Your video gives me a standard to expect.
@@landerselectric What's interesting I was reading up some Reddit comments. Some people think it's a waste of money to buy the more expensive Hubbell units. They made the claim if it's a 14-50 Nema unit it's good. I made the comment that they should read the instructions that are on the packages. Those lower price ones at less than $15 may have a warning that it is not intended for use to charge an EV. I never saw any responses yet as it can happen when dealing with others on the internet. I generally don't trust comments on a forum like Reddit. Anyone can say anything they want and some people are on purposely trying to screw up people.
Beautiful work, by an electrician who knows his craft and cares that his work will last and will be safe. He made the conduit bend look easy, but I'm here to tell you that the second box offset messes up my 90 every time with that short of a piece of EMT ;) About EV receptacles -- Lander is spot on choosing a heavy duty cycle receptacle. I don't buy from Amazon though -- too easy to get counterfeit product. Bryant also has a good 14-50 for EV charging. You taught me something about the unused busbar spots -- thanks for that. I personally would not use a quad for this application out of concern for heat build-up
i dont really see an issue using one of the cheap abs 14-50 outlet boxes if youre sharing it with an under rated breaker and not intending to try and blast 40+ amps through it for hours at a time. we got 2 phevs which are the older chevy volts with a max 3.3kw charger. i put a label on the box and the cord which i wired into my dryer which says 16amps max and then put in a cheap 35$ ebay charger which lets you select the max amps and i set it to like 16 amps. at most the evse is going to pull like 13.75 amps for 3 hours... thats less amps than a space heater and people run those on cheap extension cords with less regard. my install cost 70 bucks and i realize its not rated for like industrial levels of power. if some one in a tesla tried to blast 40 amps through it they would trip the breaker, if they looked at the plug they would see the label. idk you cant get rid of dumb people in the world but i feel like ive done my part.
It is always better to install an outlet box rated for the current you are using, even if your charger is limited. Especially as a contractor, I have to assume the customer or the next person who moves into the home will charge at full capacity.
Your video is fantastic. The NEC article 625.54 requires all receptacle outlets installed for the connection of EV charging will be provided with GFCI protection for personnel (regardless of the receptacle outlet's location). With so many instances of GFCI breaker nuisance tripping when used for a dedicated circuit EV outlet, how are you handling inspection ? Did this install pass inspection?
I have been asked if I know how to install car chargers. I am not an electrician and I would never attempt one but curious what's involved. I enjoyed this very much. I will tell people though to make sure they get a Hubbell. 🙌
I loved that in wall wire pull conduit sleeve “how to” . Brilliant. I still have open walls in my garage for my welding circuits I’ve ran and maybe I need to upgrade the wire from 8 guage to 6 guage for future proofing. I don’t know if I’ll buy and EV but if I did I’d want to be able to charge it at 60 amps. Thanks for this very concise, great tips and especially the conduit bending. I’ve bent 3/4” for box offsets and boy that stuff is tough on a long run. Got it done though, glad mine was straight runs with just box offsets.
Good stuff. However Leviton has released an EV appropriate receptacle as well. Another comment: most EVSE that use a plug should stay plugged in and only be unplugged for maintenance and semi annual checkups on the connectors. So I wouldn't recommend the RV box since it would encourage unplugging which will wear down the contacts inside over time. However this is the best EV charger receptacle video on YT so kudos since there are hundreds.
Thanks for the input! I have seen the Leviton. And the RV box is to provide protection for kids. I always tell my customers to lock the box off. And thanks! Appreciate the encouragement. Glad you found it helpful!
@@landerselectricI would continue to use the hubbell or bryant equivalent. The Leviton one is mostly a faithful copy of them, but it uses lower temperature plastic. So it has a little less margin on melting down if it were to get hot.
There might be a contractor who is willing to take you on part time. If you’re not in one already I would look into local apprenticeship programs. They can get you work.
ABSOLUTELY A FANTASTIC AND METICULOUS INSTALLATION! A+ install. One thing I would also point out, which you probably just do but non-electricians might not be aware of, is to make sure all strands get inserted under the clamp connection and to make sure none of the wire insulation gets under the clamp connection too (if you don't cut enough off). Using an outdoor cover even in the garage makes a lot of sense for safety too ... however, no child will get a 240V blast though ... 120V could happen, but 240V nope! 🤣 Think about it ... Best wishes. Oh, and one last safety issue, perhaps put a sticker on the cover to turn off the breaker before plugging or unplugging the EV mobile connector??? Just a thought as people grab the plugs on both sides of it and the large hot prongs are on both sides of it too....zap....now that WILL give you a 240V blast!
Thanks for the comment, but I completely disagree that a child could not get hit 240 volt. Thinking about it, as you said, a child can easily have two pennies in their hand and try and slide the pennies into both sides at the same time. Or they grab a coat hanger or 2 screwdrivers and stick them in. Or the plug isn’t all the way in and they reach their hand up and get put up. I appreciate your comment as it helps me to further clarify the dangers of 240 volt and why we as electricians need to take every extra safety precaution to protect our customers and their families.
@@landerselectric A child's small hand firmly holding two pennies and able to simultaneously insert them far enough in a 14-50 receptacle is so extremely unlikely that I would be that has never happened in the history of the world to create a 240. Screwdrivers are usually insulated at the handle so pretty unlikely too. A coat hanger is a possibility unless it is plastic. The plugging and unplugging with exposed prongs is the more likely scenario which I why turning off the breaker when plugging in or out is a good idea for every age. Keep up the great work.
Great question! The customer wanted to mount the charger right below the box and he built a special case to hold the charger. We couldn’t have the conduit in the way.
The absolute best ev charger plug install I have seen. Great points not covered in other videos. You used black 6g for all current carrying conductors but recoded one to white and another to red. I thought NEC did not allow recoding on 6g and smaller, only on 4g and larger. To enlarge the hole what are your thoughts on using a oops arbor with a hole saw the size of the existing and the larget size hole saw
Glad you liked it. For the ungrounded conductors there’s no issue phasing but technically you are correct on the neutral. Should have bought white wire or striped it with 3 white stripes continuous along the entire length of the wire. Good catch!
Excellent example of how to do a nema 14-50 for EV charging. The only thing I would add is that it's best to just use a hardwired charger. Why use an outlet at all if you don't need one.
You do a great job teaching. You don't babble about things that don't make a difference...but you include all the helpful bits. The single thing I didn't like is the quad breakers. I hate them...and customers don't understand them when you explain them...or years later. If you have unused lugs that sat with no breaker for years...clean it up and use regular breakers. Lastly...why didn't this install require an afci/gfi breaker?
Appreciate the feedback! I try to keep it concise and focused on the important details. I hear you on the quad breakers. I actually went back and replaced them and moved the other breakers around so they would fit in nicely. And as far as GFCI, we’re still on the 2017 code cycle. We’re not required yet to install GFCI. Inspector passed this one no problem.
With regard to the GFI, my understanding is they have been extremely problematic because they accidentally trip. The reason being is that most EVSE/chargers have already knew built-in, and the manufacturers recommend not adding one.
I can attest to the use of cheap vs quality receptacles. My original install had the $15 Leviton. It worked for approx. 3 months then my Tesla started sending me warnings that the plug was too hot and reduced the charging voltage to prevent it from overheating. I don't think all EVs do that which is scary. I swapped it out for the Hubbell and haven't had any more issues.
Fuking awesome, great vid . I used awg 4 xhhw. Ultimate install. Just remember that using the tandem mini puts a lot of heat for the 3 hour or more continuous usage that nec defines continuous as. As the regular full size breaker can handle more heat. I also put nolox on the bus terminals to make sure connection is cool and no resistance as it’s an outdoor panel. And lastly, I leave a spare breaker in the panel cuz eventually the breaker will need to be replaced in 4 years. Thanks again. U rock.
Those are all really good points! Thanks! After filming this I was told by my vendor that Eaton is now recommending the BR250H. H for high magnetic. Wish I could’ve put that in the video. Only installing those breakers for Eaton now cause they keep melting! My vendor had 38 melted normal BR breakers in his office when I went in last week.
When I rebuilt my 8 AWG AL dryer circuit I was having a difficult time with the strands in the wire. When I am tightening stranded wire I always have to wiggle the wires in place and then tighten back into torque specs about 4-5 times to set the strands, since the strands can losen over time.
Definitely one of the best videos describing everything you are doing with emphasis on double/tripple/quadruple checking the panel to make sure it’s not live. One thing I would strongly recommend is wearing some safety glasses just make sure your eye sight is properly protected. I know you are a professional and know his already. You are already wearing your vest and I’m sure you have ear protection so wearing eye protection is PARAMOUNT. I can’t tell you how much I hated wearing them but there has been a few times I have gotten close calls. I took that as my sign from the universe or call it whatever you want, but them glasses are now my first PPE I put on, especially when working with metal where you may use a grinder and there’s metal shavings or it may just be a screw that jumps out and may catch your eyes. Don’t mess with your eye sight. It’s better to take the few extra steps to go them from your storage area. Be safe out there. Great job.
Really appreciate the reminder. As I was editing the video I thought why didn’t I have my safety glasses on? I know better than this! Truly thanks for the response and reminder!
It is refreshing to see someone take the time to no do something live. Around here people are suppose to shut off a panel before working in it although I don't think I have see anyone do it until getting yelled at by an inspector.
Great video. But, this is not code compliant for 2020 onward since you need GFCI to protect that outlet. The issue there is that GFCI may also nuisance trip an EV charger (which also has an internal GFCI). In any case, the right way to do this install (in my mind) is to hardwire the charger. That means you save on not needing to run a neutral, not needing a $100+ of outlet BOM, and not needing a $100 GFCI - plus it’s inherently safer and you can charge at 11.5 kW and not 9.6 kW. This job would have been less work and safer if gone that route. We need to start educating the general public that the NEMA 14-50 plug isn’t the right solution for EVs.
Great video. Do you recommend 6 THHN wire for a hard wire install for a 60amp breaker with a 48amp setting charger? Thanks. I was planning to go from the panel to junction box and then wire the charger into the junction box. What’s best to use to connect the wires in the junction box? Thanks
Yes. That’s exactly what I recommend. I really don’t like to splice EV chargers. One extra point of failure. Is there no way to pull straight through the junction box?
@ I was thinking it might easier to connect a new charger in the future vs running wires to the panel again. But the more read and watch that doesn’t make sense. Plus, I am going to install an NACS charger vs a J1772. The standard is NACS and all cars in the USA will eventually come with it vs J1772. I can use an adapter for my J1772 car now and then I’m all set for a different car with NACS in the future.
@@bradgregory3424 The standard here in the US is the J1772 unless you drive a Tesla or a few other cars. I’d be interested to see when they will change it considering the standard right now is the J1772. Hope it works out!
He’s correct. The plug that comes with box was shit. The Tesla cord would keep faulting because of high temp. Replaced with levitron EV plug and works great now.
We knock out pull cans and boxes all the time without voiding the UL listing. Regardless though, until someone comes out with a safe receptacle housed in a safe box with a cover I’ll continue to make these adjustments so my customers and their families are safe.
@landerselectric but the code states that using any UL listed products outside the listed intended use is against code. However, you are technically using it as intended. But you are modifying it from its factory specs to add a receptacle that it was not made for. So it seems a grey area I'd be curious to find out about honestly. It's a good test of code education.
You’re welcome! I have a friend who lives in Charlotte. He said prices are comparable to Southern California. Down here I charge 1000 bucks. He might be able to find it a little bit cheaper than that.
Yeah, sometimes I encounter those cheap 14-50 receptacles, I reduce the charge current on the charger in half to de-rate it for safety. Most people won't do that and just run it at the full 40 or 50 amps. It's a weird world where one has to look closely at the receptacle to figure out if a fire will start.
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Have you ever installed an electric vehicle (EV) charger?
I have Industrial grade Nema 14-50 GFCI installed by electrician and randomly turns off EV breaker when it’s not charging or charger not plugged in. I was advised to do hardwired instead of Nema 14-50 due to GFCI incompatibility between outlet and EV charger.
I want to know why some people Never had such issue ?
@@shahvatsal2391986 You are not alone. I had the same problem with my GFCI receptacle used to charge my Tesla. That means two GFCI protection on the same circuit and that caused the problem. I believe the charger has its own GFCI protection. I replaced the receptacle to regular one and since then that the problem never happened again.
The 9450 you linked to it seems some receiving them do not have the green EV logo. I assume these are just older models. Are they the same? As in still good for EV charging?
@ Great question. Yes they are older models. Still the same.
Issue resolved after doing hardwired with non-gfci breaker .
This is one of the best 14-50 EV install videos I have ever seen. I have installed a bunch of different EV charging setups over the years and you have nailed every important point. Whatever the homeowner is paying for this job is worth every penny. Kudos!
I really appreciate that! Thanks for the support.
I totally agree
@@jean-francoisfournier1190 Thanks!
Slick install. You'd be a great teacher because you explain what you're doing, as well as why you're doing it.
Thanks! Appreciate the encouragement and glad it was helpful!
Not an electrician nor do I own an electric vehicle but here I am watching this video. Great job!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
You are really bored.
Me too!
As an ex (Navy) electrician, you have exactly the level of teaching for someone with electrical know now but not the specifics of this job. Thanks!
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback, I try to keep it easy to understand for all levels.
What Navy has to do with it?
This guys cares. It’s obvious he takes pride in his work.
Awesome. Absolutely the best EV charger/circuit install video on TH-cam. And I’ve watched a lot over the past few years. Great job with the equipment picks-especially with the RV receptacle box, Hubbel receptacle, EMT, and flex conduit. And thank you for showing everyone that you torque your connections. Only other thing to include would be a load calculation-especially when you said you installed 2 EV chargers and another circuit for the garage.
Really appreciate the input! Yeah, I definitely want to do another video on load calcs for EV chargers. That might be my next one. There’s a bit that goes into it and I think that information would be super helpful with so many people installing EV chargers these days.
All surface conduit, that is discusting
@@coreyfranco7060 You've got the same OCD as me. Unfortunately most people will not want to pay to rip down drywall and do it the " right way " .
You are performing a great service including your roccomendation about checking the tightness of all the older circuits in breaker box. I am not a professional but recently added a convenience Outlet on its own circuit into my garage so I had more power at my workbench. Since I had the power off, just by chance, I decided to check tightness of all my ground connections and realized several of them were loose. I then went through the whole box (with the power off) and tightened up several more that were attached to Breakers that were loose. The person that installed the panel had not torqued the breakers when he installed it. He is a friend of mine ( a licensed electrician with years of experience) so I called him and he said back then they didn't have a torque specification for those attachments but they now commonly torque all their connections.
Copper is malleable and it does deform when under pressure so I assume that's the process that allows some of those connections to loosen. It is probably why they now specify torque settings for the screws so the copper doesn't deform enough to loosen the connection. Based on what has been said to me I would suggest that most people have a trained person go back through and retorque all their connections in their panel. You have done an incredible service and I would hire you in a minute but I live far away from you. Keep up your excellent work. Just that one suggestion to check for loose connections in your presentation may have saved a hot connection in many panels if it is followed. While everything in my panel is now tight, I am going to try to look up torque specifications and one afternoon go through and check that everything is torqued properly. As you said most circuits don't draw very much current but also you never know when somebody will plug in a hair dryer or a plug-in heater or some other appliance that draws a lot of power and cause a problem with a loose connection.
@@alaneverett9767 This is true . Connections loosen up on their own, either vibration, thermal cycling, etc. Tighten to spec and check on a regular schedule with torque wrench and IR temp measurement.
THANK YOU for being so vocal about a proper receptacle. I’m a fan of hardwire now, but if you’re doing a NEMA 14-50, spend the $50 on a Hubble! I’m no electrician, but I’ve seen too many videos of fried cheap NEMA 14-50 receptacles!!
You’re welcome and yes, I agree completely!
Leviton makes a Nema 14-50 specifically for car chargers. It’s aRound the same price.
@ good point. I think I’m gonna give theirs a try next install.
By far the best walk through I have seen online for doing a EV circuit.
Glad to hear it. Hope it helped!
Your editing and content are top notch! Too many creators chit chat or take no time to edit out the crap. Thanks for sharing your obvious knowledge and experience. I’m using these videos so I can be intelligent when speaking with my own licensed tradesmen and women when we do our upcoming build. Your videos give me confidence to have those conversations and quality check items to review with my hired pro. Thank you!
You’re welcome! That’s what I’m here for. I’m glad they are helping!
If you don’t mind me asking, what are you building?
This may have saved us a lot of $$ and potentially worse . I saw this before helping my son install his EV outlet. An electrical contractor had already done ours and installed a non-EV rated outlet. By the time I replaced it, it was already scored and gray. Thanks for the VALUABLE lesson!
Glad to hear it was helpful!
People are going to be all over your ass for Electrical safety, Telling you just get it done. but I applaud it. That is the type of journeyman I would want teaching me as an apprentice.
😂 I’m sure they will but I don’t really care for a second. The first time a panel blows up in their face they’ll start following safety protocols. Thanks for the comment Jonathan. Good to hear from you!
@@landerselectricI started back in 1970 before OSHA, mandatory PPE & safety rules. After I plugged in a old 480 volt twist lock plug with non dead front. ( Came with a flimsy piece of cardboard or plastic that always fell off. Any way I did not see that a few strands came off of the screw. Small flash that burnt all the hair off my knuckles - partially up my arm. Had to pick.out small pieces of copper out of my skin. After that always wore safety glasses and replaced over 30 of these dangerous plugs. The 120 volt non dead front male plugs were outlawed around 1971 but scum bag lying cheating communist china still made them for next 20 years. Only flee markets and some fly by night hardware stores sold them.
Hopefully we can sue Amazon for selling illegal-to-install electrical products. They are the pipeline for this junk.
should have used safety glasses
Testing voltage with both hand . Good luck 😅
I tell you what those that have a trade skill, kudos to you, man. I'm a computer engineer, but what electricians do is still something special and unique.
I appreciate that. It's a lot of fun doing what I do!
I’m going to reach out next week. Do you install solar panels and Anker whole home battery backup devices?
Listen to this man, people. He knows what he's talking about. Especially about not using a cheap 240V receptacle. Those are designed for the low duty cycle of your cloths dryer. They were never meant for an EV charger, and will NOT take the load.
Well said!
I don’t own a EV, or a house with a garage, and know nothing about electrical work. But I loved every minute of this video. I’m very OCD, and seeing you take the time to do things the right way really speaks volumes about your service. Whatever your salary is it should be doubled.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Learned some good stuff, the looping of the wires in the junction box, and checking all the connections in the main panel. Also cleaning the buss connector and putting the breaker on and off several times, good stuff.
Appreciate the feedback, glad you found it helpful.
I’m not an electrician but we recently purchased a Tesla and I am looking to have a level 2 charger installed so after watching this video I I have some knowledge on what to look for when having one installed in the future. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great work
You’re welcome! Hope it helped!
There is no valuable info in this video, I would walk off the job if you started talking this nonsense
@@coreyfranco7060 Post a better tutorial Corey, we'll be waiting.
I rather not waste time helping my competition...
It's bad enough already i need to compete with landscapers doing electrical work
I'm a general contractor that does all parts of the trade including electrical. I have installed a few outlets for EV chargers but you showed me a few good tricks!
Thanks for the video. I do have a couple comments though: don't use a steel brush if the bus and stabs are tin plated which is usually the case these days whether copper or aluminum bus. The steel brush is against all the manufactures recommendations for plated buses as it damages the surfaces that were meant to prevent galvanic corrosion (i.e., dissimilar metal that are exposed to each other.) Also, rather than changing breakers, use Scotch-Brite pads to shine up the stabs; they won't do any damage but will provide a clean and low impedance connection for the new breakers.
Tons of info without the usual BS! First class install and video. Wish all were this good.
Glad you liked it. I don’t have time for filler garbage and I don’t think you do either.
Keep these videos up! Currently an apprentice and learning a lot from u!
Glad to hear it! Will definitely try to post as often as I can.might be a week or 2 before the next video. About to get really busy with the company.
I just finished trade school for electrical few months ago and watching your vids helps expand my knowledge on how to do jobs like this and all the other stuff you do like panel upgrades and all that. I appreciate all the vids and teaching💯
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I’m a freshie apprentice 4 months in and im struggling to learn and to get experience at work cuz of my pos lead lol, i hope some day i come across a Lead thats just as Great as you 🙏 overall thank you for the videos, i’m learning alot thanks to you bossman. Every detail and effort you put in shows alot of love for what you do. I admire you bossman.
Thanks! Glad I can help you learn.
Im a tile guy and i ended up watching this video very knowledgeable you the best electrician I’ve seen
Appreciate you!
Great video! Only one minor point - the holes you drill in the box panel for the 8-32 screws to mount the receptacle do not need to be tapped, and probably shouldn't. You want the screws to draw the Hubble receptacle tight up to the back of the panel. If both holes are tapped then there's a chance that the screw head will bottom out without drawing the receptacle flange tight against the back of the panel because there's an extra thread or two in the way. Just drill the panel holes big enough to pass the 8-32 screws and tap the flange holes from 6-32 to 8-32 separately.
That’s a good point. I’ll do it that way from now on. Appreciate you!
This is a really informative video. I just got my first EV and this has given me many talking points when discussing the 60A hard wire install for my EVSE with my local electrician. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. Feel free to reach out with a comment if you have further questions.
One of the best EV connection point installations I've seen. My Tesla connector was also installed properly and has been flawless for 5 years. Folks should understand that these are NOT chargers (all EVs have the charger built into them). These are merely "receptacles" allowing an electrical connection to the onboard EV charger.
I agree, it's important to use the correct terminology and understand the components of an EV charging setup.
I appreciated your honesty in accepting and correcting your small mistakes. Thank you for your video
Thanks for watching, I strive to get it right.!
Really good coverage of all the basics and best practices for EVSE installation!
Beautiful work BUT I did catch one problem with the install. It does does not have GFCI protection as required by NEC 625.54. I think you put it on a quadplex breaker that does not offer GFCI protection. I know it adds an extra $200 to the materials, but code requires GFCI protection for EV charging. I definitely would've used an RV box IF the charger were exposed outside or if it was going in an open car port. For an enclosed garage, I would've seen no problem with using a deep 1900 or a 4-11/16 box with an industrial cover. I personally would've fished #6/3 Romex from the panel to a recessed receptacle inside the wall in the direct vicinity of the panel instead of using surface mounted conduit & box. The chargers usually have a 6-8 ft power cord plus an additional 20 ft output cable which would still allow it to reach pretty much anywhere inside the garage to charge. I did learn that standard 14-50 NEMA plugs are not for EV charging. I always bought the EV receptacles, but I thought that it was only marketing. I thought the only difference between 14-50 NEMA stove receptacles and 14-50 EV receptacles was may corrosion resistant terminals for wet location use.
I'm an electrician too (primarily new construction) and I still learned from this video. The trick you used with the wire to install the FMCA was neat and I'm sure I will use it, but this is the first time ever heard/considered that the very thin old film build-up on the line bus bar fingers could cause improper contact with new breakers. Now it seems obvious, so I'm definitely keeping that tip in mind from now on. Nice work!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
@@landerselectric ... Well, you may have just saved me several thousand dollars. It's only been 2 weeks since my comment and I just encountered the breaker issue in my own home.
I bought a 1980 house this year and the home's well was installed about 20 years ago. They must have plopped a breaker in over some grime because I was installing a new circuit and decided to check out the contacts of the Square D Homeline breakers (Challenger panel) and low and behold there was evidence of arcing between the fingers of the panel and breaker's line side tabs (single pole). The back of the breaker was discolored with that bluish spiderweb looking effect and the breaker's line-side clamping mechanism + the bus bar of the panel had sputtered metal where the breaker tack welded itself onto the bus bar. I proceeded to remove and inspect all breakers, clean the bus bars, bought a new breaker for the well and made sure to leave the space with the damaged bus bar finger empty (continuity of bar is good, just the one bad finger).
Seriously, thanks a ton!
Thank you for emphasizing the NEMA 14-50R receptacle needing to be Industrial Grade for Continuous EV charging...Glad there are still competent Electricians out there, Subscribed! That knockout tool is awesome as well, did not know they existed, I had the same issue looking for a box with the correct size to fit the Hubbell 14-50R.
You’re welcome! Hope it helped!
HOPE you have the opportunity to TRAIN others. You do a superb job detailing each facet of the installation. Enjoyed your video even though I'll never have an EV.
Thanks for the encouragement! Glad you enjoyed the video!
One of the best installs on TH-cam
Appreciate you!
Good to see a solid connection from the panel to the outlet. I've seen people post pics saying...what is this box it's smoking and melted... And found out their electrician put a disconnect on the line for whatever reason like for a heat pump or pool motor.
Not good for sure!
First time I've seen this guy. Top notch info and great presentation. Good stuff..
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video and excellent work, but a few corrections. 11:50 each side of the 240v outlet is 120v to ground, just like the outlets in the house but I do like protecting it with the cover anyway because the outlet doesn't have ground fault, only the EVSE itself does. And 2nd, 13:21 the quality of the outlet and how hot it gets cannot do damage to the breaker, impossible. The only reason the breaker gets damaged is either a faulty breaker, undersized, corrosion or most commonly the wire screw wasn't tightened to the proper torque but either would happen because of the current draw of the EV, and not the quality of the outlet. Even if the outlet melted so much the wires shorted, it would just trip the breaker. A common mistake by DIYers is to not torque the breaker to the manufacture's specs on the side of it. It's way more than most people realize. Even my house that was installed my a certified electrician had every single breaker torqued to way less than 1/2 of what the specs are. Also excellent tip on the wire size and type but you might mention length. At 60 amps, 6 awg wire is chewing up about a watt per foot or 55W in the wire itself on a 50ft run even though the insulation can handle it. It looks like your run was short through the wall so it wouldn't matter.
34:46 Having the outlet mounted to the faceplate to torque the screws is crucial. It's really hard to hold the outlet and torque it.
And I love you re-torque all the breakers, that's super quality work there!
Thanks for the corrections. Really good points! Appreciate the input!
Amazing video brother! Probably one of the best explanation/tutorials I’ve seen! Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you. I got blasted on Reddit for well over a year mostly by electricians insisting what you said about receptacles is BS. Finally Leviton has acknowledged it.
HOWEVER: the BEST receptacle for EV charging is NO receptacle; hardwire if at all possible. It safer and cheaper.
Completely agree!! I think hardwiring is way better but sometimes the customer doesn’t want to spend the extra money.
What extra money? Why wouldn’t it be cheaper? Less material involved. And technically, with a receptacle requires a GFI (right?)?
@ Good chargers like the one I recommend below are about $500. The extra neutral, the rv box, and the receptacle are about $120. Labor is the same.
amzn.to/4hmtOms
Priceless info. Rapid fire, no time wasting. Thank you
You’re welcome!
This is a great and thorough tutorial. Thank you for posting it for others to benefit from your knowledge!
You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed it!
To do this job (or to hire someone to do it) I learned many thing from your clips. Thank you alot. You're a very good electrician!
I appreciate you watching! Glad it was helpful.
On the torque wrench, what did you use for the tip to tighten it in?
I just subscribed to your channel, and I like how you explain every detail in your videos, please keep sharing your knowledge/experience. Im an apprentice in residential and all your content is very helpful and informative. Thank you so very much sir!
You’re welcome! I’ll keep posting as much as I can. Glad you find it helpful!
Very professional and informative video! I was always told when strapping conduit to have the screw hole of the strap on the bottom and the "U" part of the strap on top 27:40
Great content! Thank you for confirming that the Hubble 9450A is worth the splurge. Your explanation is consistent and makes for great content. Though I find it troubling that you described a ground rod as a potentially a piece of rebar. I also live in San Diego County, and having upgraded to 200 AMP box, know that a ground rod is more than a piece of rebar, at least per local code. (I will bet this is quite variable per local codes, but a piece of rebar per your suggestion? ) The new ground rod required for my upgraded box is much thicker than the rod which supported the initial 100 AMP service panel. It is a 6 ft rod that took two men to drive into our clay soil and then wire. Since then, our utilities have been placed under ground and solar has been added without question once the grounding was confirmed. With due respect, perhaps a piece of rebar as a ground rod will pass elsewhere, but not likely everywhere.
I appreciate your genuine concern. The rebar that I was referring to is not a ground rod as you said. Most homes built in San Diego have what’s called a ufer ground. This piece of rebar was tied in with the rest of the rebar in the concrete foundation of the building and stubs up through the slab right underneath the electrical panel in the wall. This piece of rebar is usually a 5/8 in diameter piece of rebar. This is the same diameter as the two ground rods you are speaking of. When we do electrical panel upgrades in San Diego, if there is a ufer, a piece of rebar coming out of the slab with an existing ground wire tied to it. You are allowed to tie your new bonding wire to that rebar. If you cannot find that piece of rebar that is coming out of the footing underneath the electrical panel in the wall, you must drive to ground rods outside of the wall, so the inspectors can see them.
Please forgive me as I should’ve been more clear on this in the video
Hope that helps!
This was good to see. I plan on having a electrician install a EV charge outlet. It's always interesting to watch craft workers doing their thing. This will also let me ask for certain parts.
Absolutely. Make sure you find a good electrician for the EV install. Anyone can install a ceiling fan. You don’t want to mess up an EV though.
Yea because youtube is really reliable
@@landerselectric I'll ask questions of the electricians while he/she is looking around to figure out a price. Your video gives me a standard to expect.
@@landerselectric What's interesting I was reading up some Reddit comments. Some people think it's a waste of money to buy the more expensive Hubbell units. They made the claim if it's a 14-50 Nema unit it's good. I made the comment that they should read the instructions that are on the packages. Those lower price ones at less than $15 may have a warning that it is not intended for use to charge an EV. I never saw any responses yet as it can happen when dealing with others on the internet.
I generally don't trust comments on a forum like Reddit. Anyone can say anything they want and some people are on purposely trying to screw up people.
Amazing video. You can tell how proud you are of your work. Keep up with the video and work ethic.
Home depot does sell indoor rated EV charging receptical. Nema 14-50R -BO
Nice! I’ll check it out!
That live dead live test is a good idea. A meter malfunction could lead to a big mess if you didn't check it's operation first
You are absolutely right! Always test your tools!
very intuitive video good job the best installer I’ve seen yet
Appreciate that! Glad you’re enjoying the content!
How much for the installation on something similar?
Beautiful work, by an electrician who knows his craft and cares that his work will last and will be safe. He made the conduit bend look easy, but I'm here to tell you that the second box offset messes up my 90 every time with that short of a piece of EMT ;)
About EV receptacles -- Lander is spot on choosing a heavy duty cycle receptacle. I don't buy from Amazon though -- too easy to get counterfeit product. Bryant also has a good 14-50 for EV charging.
You taught me something about the unused busbar spots -- thanks for that. I personally would not use a quad for this application out of concern for heat build-up
Appreciate you! Glad you enjoyed the video! And thanks for the tips!
i dont really see an issue using one of the cheap abs 14-50 outlet boxes if youre sharing it with an under rated breaker and not intending to try and blast 40+ amps through it for hours at a time. we got 2 phevs which are the older chevy volts with a max 3.3kw charger. i put a label on the box and the cord which i wired into my dryer which says 16amps max and then put in a cheap 35$ ebay charger which lets you select the max amps and i set it to like 16 amps. at most the evse is going to pull like 13.75 amps for 3 hours... thats less amps than a space heater and people run those on cheap extension cords with less regard. my install cost 70 bucks and i realize its not rated for like industrial levels of power. if some one in a tesla tried to blast 40 amps through it they would trip the breaker, if they looked at the plug they would see the label. idk you cant get rid of dumb people in the world but i feel like ive done my part.
It is always better to install an outlet box rated for the current you are using, even if your charger is limited.
Especially as a contractor, I have to assume the customer or the next person who moves into the home will charge at full capacity.
Your video is fantastic. The NEC article 625.54 requires all receptacle outlets installed for the connection of EV charging will be provided with GFCI protection for personnel (regardless of the receptacle outlet's location). With so many instances of GFCI breaker nuisance tripping when used for a dedicated circuit EV outlet, how are you handling inspection ? Did this install pass inspection?
We are still on the 2017 code here so it’s not required in this location. Passed inspection!
I have been asked if I know how to install car chargers. I am not an electrician and I would never attempt one but curious what's involved. I enjoyed this very much. I will tell people though to make sure they get a Hubbell. 🙌
Glad you enjoyed. Yes, the hubbell is the one you want. Even better is getting a hardwired charger like this one.
amzn.to/4hmtOms
@@landerselectric Love it. Thx!
I loved that in wall wire pull conduit sleeve “how to” . Brilliant. I still have open walls in my garage for my welding circuits I’ve ran and maybe I need to upgrade the wire from 8 guage to 6 guage for future proofing. I don’t know if I’ll buy and EV but if I did I’d want to be able to charge it at 60 amps. Thanks for this very concise, great tips and especially the conduit bending. I’ve bent 3/4” for box offsets and boy that stuff is tough on a long run. Got it done though, glad mine was straight runs with just box offsets.
Ya it’s a pretty cool trick. Definitely should upgrade to #6 if you’re gonna charge at 60 amps. And use THHN not romex. Glad you liked the video!
This is why home owners do their own work .plus the handyman .
You make it look so easy fitting those wires in the box. I'll give that a try.
A lot of practice makes almost perfect. Make sure to turn the power off first.
Good stuff. However Leviton has released an EV appropriate receptacle as well.
Another comment: most EVSE that use a plug should stay plugged in and only be unplugged for maintenance and semi annual checkups on the connectors.
So I wouldn't recommend the RV box since it would encourage unplugging which will wear down the contacts inside over time.
However this is the best EV charger receptacle video on YT so kudos since there are hundreds.
Thanks for the input! I have seen the Leviton. And the RV box is to provide protection for kids. I always tell my customers to lock the box off. And thanks! Appreciate the encouragement. Glad you found it helpful!
@@landerselectricI would continue to use the hubbell or bryant equivalent. The Leviton one is mostly a faithful copy of them, but it uses lower temperature plastic. So it has a little less margin on melting down if it were to get hot.
You are a great teacher. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
You’re welcome! Glad you’ve been finding them helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge, tips and tricks!
You’re welcome!
@landerselectric Do you have any recommendations on how to pick up apprenticeship work? Is there such a thing as a part-time position?
There might be a contractor who is willing to take you on part time. If you’re not in one already I would look into local apprenticeship programs. They can get you work.
No GFCI breaker protection when adding a receptacle in garage!?! Only when you hardwire unit is it permissible to have no gfci
We’re still on the 2017 code. Not required yet. Passed inspection no problem.
@ but you just talked about what if a kid came around and something catastrophic happened, your gfci protection will save a life…..
That 50A receptacle is supposed to be gfci protected as of 2020 nec right?
I believe that is correct. In my jurisdiction, we are still on the 2017.
You are in clark county?
The wall fish was in point ... nicely done sir!
Thanks! Hope it was helpful!
ABSOLUTELY A FANTASTIC AND METICULOUS INSTALLATION! A+ install. One thing I would also point out, which you probably just do but non-electricians might not be aware of, is to make sure all strands get inserted under the clamp connection and to make sure none of the wire insulation gets under the clamp connection too (if you don't cut enough off). Using an outdoor cover even in the garage makes a lot of sense for safety too ... however, no child will get a 240V blast though ... 120V could happen, but 240V nope! 🤣 Think about it ... Best wishes. Oh, and one last safety issue, perhaps put a sticker on the cover to turn off the breaker before plugging or unplugging the EV mobile connector??? Just a thought as people grab the plugs on both sides of it and the large hot prongs are on both sides of it too....zap....now that WILL give you a 240V blast!
Thanks for the comment, but I completely disagree that a child could not get hit 240 volt. Thinking about it, as you said, a child can easily have two pennies in their hand and try and slide the pennies into both sides at the same time. Or they grab a coat hanger or 2 screwdrivers and stick them in. Or the plug isn’t all the way in and they reach their hand up and get put up. I appreciate your comment as it helps me to further clarify the dangers of 240 volt and why we as electricians need to take every extra safety precaution to protect our customers and their families.
@@landerselectric A child's small hand firmly holding two pennies and able to simultaneously insert them far enough in a 14-50 receptacle is so extremely unlikely that I would be that has never happened in the history of the world to create a 240. Screwdrivers are usually insulated at the handle so pretty unlikely too. A coat hanger is a possibility unless it is plastic. The plugging and unplugging with exposed prongs is the more likely scenario which I why turning off the breaker when plugging in or out is a good idea for every age. Keep up the great work.
@ Thanks for the comment!
Great info !!! I've never heard of those types of breakers. Very clean install !!
Glad you found it helpful!
why did you choose to use an lb to go into the receptacle box?
just curious, why not do an offset on the emt instead?
Great question! The customer wanted to mount the charger right below the box and he built a special case to hold the charger. We couldn’t have the conduit in the way.
The absolute best ev charger plug install I have seen. Great points not covered in other videos. You used black 6g for all current carrying conductors but recoded one to white and another to red. I thought NEC did not allow recoding on 6g and smaller, only on 4g and larger.
To enlarge the hole what are your thoughts on using a oops arbor with a hole saw the size of the existing and the larget size hole saw
Glad you liked it. For the ungrounded conductors there’s no issue phasing but technically you are correct on the neutral. Should have bought white wire or striped it with 3 white stripes continuous along the entire length of the wire. Good catch!
You can color any size wire you want..
More grossed out by the exposed conduit...
The breaker should be gfci no???
Yes it should according to current NEC.@@coreyfranco7060
Beautiful work man! I appreciate all the knowledge ! 🔥👏🏽
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent example of how to do a nema 14-50 for EV charging. The only thing I would add is that it's best to just use a hardwired charger. Why use an outlet at all if you don't need one.
I hear ya, but a lot of folks prefer the flexibility of a plug.
Plus the plug in 220/110 Mobile charger is now included, no charge with a new model Y, the hard wire charging station is a $420 option.
I love all the detail you explained
Glad you like it! Hope it helped!
You do a great job teaching. You don't babble about things that don't make a difference...but you include all the helpful bits. The single thing I didn't like is the quad breakers. I hate them...and customers don't understand them when you explain them...or years later. If you have unused lugs that sat with no breaker for years...clean it up and use regular breakers. Lastly...why didn't this install require an afci/gfi breaker?
Appreciate the feedback! I try to keep it concise and focused on the important details. I hear you on the quad breakers. I actually went back and replaced them and moved the other breakers around so they would fit in nicely. And as far as GFCI, we’re still on the 2017 code cycle. We’re not required yet to install GFCI. Inspector passed this one no problem.
With regard to the GFI, my understanding is they have been extremely problematic because they accidentally trip. The reason being is that most EVSE/chargers have already knew built-in, and the manufacturers recommend not adding one.
Just sub’d:) Looking to be an electrician and I enjoy your super clean work. We can tell you value craftsmanship which I’m sure the costumers love.
Glad you liked it. Hope it was helpful!
When you use quads does that overcharged the buzz line
What do you mean?
The breaker needs to be GFCI unless the EVSE is hardwired, which I highly recommend.
Depends on where you’re at. We’re still on the 2017 code. Not required for us yet. Passed inspection with no problem.
Good skills and great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I know enough about electrical to be dangerous This was very clear and informative .
Thanks for the comment, hopefully I helped to clear up some of the confusion.
Great video. Is your installation per NEC code 625.54?
We’re on the 2017 code. Not required yet for us. Passed inspection with no problems.
I can attest to the use of cheap vs quality receptacles. My original install had the $15 Leviton. It worked for approx. 3 months then my Tesla started sending me warnings that the plug was too hot and reduced the charging voltage to prevent it from overheating. I don't think all EVs do that which is scary. I swapped it out for the Hubbell and haven't had any more issues.
Glad you upgraded to a higher quality receptacle, that’s important!
Does the latest NEC regulation require a GFCI breaker in the main panel for EV outlets?
It does but it depends on what code cycle your jurisdiction is on.
Job done the right way.Great explanation. Thumbs up.
Thanks! Hope it helped!
Fuking awesome, great vid . I used awg 4 xhhw. Ultimate install. Just remember that using the tandem mini puts a lot of heat for the 3 hour or more continuous usage that nec defines continuous as. As the regular full size breaker can handle more heat. I also put nolox on the bus terminals to make sure connection is cool and no resistance as it’s an outdoor panel. And lastly, I leave a spare breaker in the panel cuz eventually the breaker will need to be replaced in 4 years. Thanks again. U rock.
Those are all really good points! Thanks! After filming this I was told by my vendor that Eaton is now recommending the BR250H. H for high magnetic. Wish I could’ve put that in the video. Only installing those breakers for Eaton now cause they keep melting! My vendor had 38 melted normal BR breakers in his office when I went in last week.
@@landerselectric see. I know stuff as well. U keep kicking ass
Aluminum is not something to brag about using….
Umm what are you talking about??
When I rebuilt my 8 AWG AL dryer circuit I was having a difficult time with the strands in the wire. When I am tightening stranded wire I always have to wiggle the wires in place and then tighten back into torque specs about 4-5 times to set the strands, since the strands can losen over time.
I always make sure to do that too, that’s super important!
Definitely one of the best videos describing everything you are doing with emphasis on double/tripple/quadruple checking the panel to make sure it’s not live. One thing I would strongly recommend is wearing some safety glasses just make sure your eye sight is properly protected. I know you are a professional and know his already. You are already wearing your vest and I’m sure you have ear protection so wearing eye protection is PARAMOUNT. I can’t tell you how much I hated wearing them but there has been a few times I have gotten close calls. I took that as my sign from the universe or call it whatever you want, but them glasses are now my first PPE I put on, especially when working with metal where you may use a grinder and there’s metal shavings or it may just be a screw that jumps out and may catch your eyes. Don’t mess with your eye sight. It’s better to take the few extra steps to go them from your storage area. Be safe out there. Great job.
Really appreciate the reminder. As I was editing the video I thought why didn’t I have my safety glasses on? I know better than this! Truly thanks for the response and reminder!
It is refreshing to see someone take the time to no do something live. Around here people are suppose to shut off a panel before working in it although I don't think I have see anyone do it until getting yelled at by an inspector.
@ it’s really important
Great video. But, this is not code compliant for 2020 onward since you need GFCI to protect that outlet. The issue there is that GFCI may also nuisance trip an EV charger (which also has an internal GFCI). In any case, the right way to do this install (in my mind) is to hardwire the charger. That means you save on not needing to run a neutral, not needing a $100+ of outlet BOM, and not needing a $100 GFCI - plus it’s inherently safer and you can charge at 11.5 kW and not 9.6 kW. This job would have been less work and safer if gone that route.
We need to start educating the general public that the NEMA 14-50 plug isn’t the right solution for EVs.
Good points! I’ll keep that in mind for the next video
Great video. Do you recommend 6 THHN wire for a hard wire install for a 60amp breaker with a 48amp setting charger? Thanks. I was planning to go from the panel to junction box and then wire the charger into the junction box. What’s best to use to connect the wires in the junction box? Thanks
Yes. That’s exactly what I recommend. I really don’t like to splice EV chargers. One extra point of failure. Is there no way to pull straight through the junction box?
@ I was thinking it might easier to connect a new charger in the future vs running wires to the panel again. But the more read and watch that doesn’t make sense. Plus, I am going to install an NACS charger vs a J1772. The standard is NACS and all cars in the USA will eventually come with it vs J1772. I can use an adapter for my J1772 car now and then I’m all set for a different car with NACS in the future.
@@bradgregory3424 The standard here in the US is the J1772 unless you drive a Tesla or a few other cars. I’d be interested to see when they will change it considering the standard right now is the J1772. Hope it works out!
Did you use 1” conduit? What gauge wire did you use for the ground wire?
He’s correct. The plug that comes with box was shit. The Tesla cord would keep faulting because of high temp. Replaced with levitron EV plug and works great now.
Completely agree!!
Great video with explanation and tips.
@@JP-zk7ye Glad you liked it. Hope it helped!
Great demo tips
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Does modifying the box not void code due to modifying it?
We knock out pull cans and boxes all the time without voiding the UL listing. Regardless though, until someone comes out with a safe receptacle housed in a safe box with a cover I’ll continue to make these adjustments so my customers and their families are safe.
@landerselectric but the code states that using any UL listed products outside the listed intended use is against code. However, you are technically using it as intended. But you are modifying it from its factory specs to add a receptacle that it was not made for. So it seems a grey area I'd be curious to find out about honestly. It's a good test of code education.
Nicely done, one more thing I would do is a short circuit check between all wires before flipping the breaker.
Good catch. Thanks for the tip!
Great content! You know what you're doing and explain it well. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Grounding bushing for the concentric opening?
Could’ve put one on for sure.
These are helpful
Glad they were!
Very informative, thanks for sharing all that knowledge!!
You’re welcome! Hope it was helpful!
Thank you! Very clean and professional installation. I’m curious, how much would an installation like this cost in Charlotte, NC
You’re welcome! I have a friend who lives in Charlotte. He said prices are comparable to Southern California. Down here I charge 1000 bucks. He might be able to find it a little bit cheaper than that.
Very nice work Bro!!!
Appreciate it!
Yeah, sometimes I encounter those cheap 14-50 receptacles, I reduce the charge current on the charger in half to de-rate it for safety. Most people won't do that and just run it at the full 40 or 50 amps. It's a weird world where one has to look closely at the receptacle to figure out if a fire will start.
Completely agree.