I’m glad it inspired you to get out there and fire up that furnace 😄 I’m working on a video (that’s code for trying to get motivated to edit it) that is pretty fun. I hope to do more castings like it
Thanks for the video as always Perry. I envy the satisfaction of making something a fellow maker needs. A vertical parting plane, feeding from the bottom may have been the simplest way to do a vertical casting of those. That way, you still only need two mold sections. I have been trying to do everything that way lately and it has turned out well . I plan to stick with it, except for those cases when, as you said, you just need to get the job done.
Probably but like the other vertical options I could think of, it would have required building a special flask that I didn't want to go to the trouble of building.
You could also do a 3 part mould that will allow you to bottom gate the casting in the drag section under the centre boss. This will create less turbulence. I method all my castings from Alloy steel all they way through to aluminium castings in this manner. Prof Campbell told me that even this is not true counter gravity casting but it's still much better than water falling metal from the joint line.
You're absolutely right. A three-part flask is what I needed to keep the flow as turbulence free as possible. I didnt have a cheek flask set up that was large enough for this pour and I didnt feel like making one. I know, I know it would have been the right thing to do. Any thoughts on a vertical casting versus a horizontal casting? I'd love to hear them if you do.
You are onto it mate, I have been following your channel for a while now, very good and I think you are a good source for people wanting to get into casting. For the vertical parted mould and orientation I really would only go that way if you can properly feed the casting. It will make it easier moulding it for sure. Casting design has a lot to do with how you orientate your pattern as well. For the wheel casting I think 2 trials need to be done, one a 3 part mould and one as a vertically parted mould. I like your work and I also like seeing Campbell and Puhakka's ideas in practice. As a steel founder I follow only one persons work for steel and that is R. Wlodawer and for iron Stephen Karsay, these gentlemen wrote the bible/bibles (each has books written on their subjects) on metal casting and most of their methods can be copied for non ferrous castings as well. Keep up the good work and cant wait to see the new video. Greetings from the land of the long white cloud New Zealand.
@@wikusdp Like the illiterate newb that I am, I went looking for TH-cam channels. for those guys. Don't tell anyone. I broadened my scope to the written word and found them. I'll have to see about getting a book or two. Thanks Regarding the trials, I could do those but I'm not sure what I'd be able to see from the two castings with the naked eye. I occasionally think that I need to build a three-part flask for everything that I cast so that I can at least put the runner perpendicular AND above the runner no matter what I'm casting. The drag in this case wouldn't need to be very thick and wouldn't require a lot of sand. Having this set up would allow me to bottom fill just about everything I cast.
One can learn so much from those books, even after 28 years in the trade I find myself referring back to those books on a regular basis. The old boys are no longer with us but their legacy remain. Campbell and Bob will know who they are and I'm sure they will also say the same about them, legends never die. As for our home foundries we will almost never have to follow their methods down to the T but we can use what we can to create better castings. Bob Puhakka has been quiet for a while now wonder what he is up to. He does some very interesting work with aluminium.
Useful parts, I love it! At the end of the day the parts look good, are sound enough to do what they're meant for, and the customer is happy. So you did it right. Your "maybe right way" drawing shows the in-gate way below the surface of the drag if I haven't misunderstood. Would you use a cheek flask or an elaborate core to accomplish that? Either way it's hard to say doing all that extra work would be "right" when the parts are perfectly suitable for their intended purpose as-is. 👍
@@tobhomott Ah man!, I didnt ... Sorry. Edited my post to be more positive. #%!, seconds after he asks us not to be 'buttheads', and I stuck my foot in it.
I seriously doubt that either of you would ever be buttheads like the guy I was referring to. His only goal in life was to tell me how useless I am. Ahhh… the joy and power of the delete button 😄
Awesome! Thank you for letting me know. You might want to start here th-cam.com/play/PLU1QP34Dv8Y70lJsPZDGnnW2n0A_fhF0w.html Don't hesitate to ask questions
Keep thinking about how to do this horizontality. Do it in 3 parts with the gate in the bottom. Vertical adds complexity of dealing with blowouts. Or put the gate in the drag and cut off the runner since it will get machined off anyway
Yeah that sounds like a recipe for failure although lots of people try it. The barrier to entry is low so a lot of people start there. Thanks for watching 😄
Hey Perry. Have you thought of doing a 3 layer mold with that kind of casting? Basically using your used standard setup but you would put a short vertical gate up starting from your standard horizontal gate and ending it into the center of the wheel? Cheers
Nice job. You didn't really explain what the wheels are for but I assume they will be used at relatively low RPMs so minor Casting imperfections add character. Thumbs up. 👍 Cheers from Southeast Alaska, Greg Chaney
Questions on crucibles, the crucible you shown in this video is what size? On crucible size for example #12 is 12 pounds of aluminium that it holds but does that leave any clearance from the top to prevent spillage? Next question has any one tried iron crucible lined with straight Portland cement to prevent iron needles from forming?
Home you might want to check out this if you can stand to listen to me on another video. th-cam.com/video/eMErzjiIL0U/w-d-xo.html I'm not aware of anyone lining an iron/steel crucible with portland cement. Not to say someone hasn't done it, I'm just not aware of anyone.
While you have a great casting you are concerned with the way the metal fills the mould. My thought then is how would it be if you were to prop up the end of the flask to give it a few degrees of tilt to encourage the fill to start from the gate end of the mould and fill upward. Would you be happier with that? Incidentally did you actually see any evidence of bi-film intrusion into the final casting?
I think you're right, tilting the mold would have given a better fill. I didn't seen anything like huge seams where two flows came together. I did see some flow lines indicating the metal sort of searched for edges to contain it but nothing major. Had I double gated it from opposite sides I might have seen something like that.
@@swdweeb no. Absolutely nothing! 😝 i lied. I learn a lot from you. I also try to copy your methods of using gates , runners sprues etc. Ofset pouring bason. The last time i did implement it the cast did turn out better. Just cant remeber what i casted back then. 😅
Perry, I apologize for the off topic question, but I am in a jam. What brand of etching primer/paint are you using for your plaque type castings? They look great and I have been struggling to get similar results. These gift projects always have unfortunate deadlines. Thanks in advance.
Don't let the camera fool you, I still struggle with paint on aluminum. I'm really considering moving to powder coat. I use Rust-oleum self etching primer. It has the number 249322 on the can
I have cast a few hammers with cores. I didn't use a core on this for a couple of reasons. It had to be dead centered and Bob wasn't 100% of the size when I cast the wheels. I went on the assumption that the machine shop would have a lathe and could give him exactly what he needed.
Lol I gave up I keep What hair I have left very short cut don’t have to comb it and it’s wash and go lol... I even cut my own hair the last 35 years last time I had my hair cut professionally was in 2004 lol... I’m 53 years young now 🤪😁
I am planning a project to put on youtube, I am putting rubber tracks on a 1948 Ford 8N Tractor and need 4 Idlers, How can I contact you to get your help on getting them cast, maybe your email
Thanks for doing such an awesome job on these wheels! They turned out great!
Thanks for asking me to make them Bob. It was fun working with you and making something you can use.
As always a perfect cast, I never doubted it for a second 👊🏻😁🇺🇸🇦🇺🍻🍻
That’s because you’re a peach. Love you mate
We're thankful for the metal molders in the world. We would still use stone clubs if you weren't willing to make stuff. Good luck and stay safe! 👍
Thanks, I try 😄
Pretty cool colab. I like the angle iron on the flask to protect it. Good idea!
Yeah I wish I remembered to put it on there more often. I get spoiled with the metal flask and forget to do it with the wooden ones
I havn't cast for years and this was inspiring. Time to dig out the blast furnace and go at it again. Thanks
I’m glad it inspired you to get out there and fire up that furnace 😄 I’m working on a video (that’s code for trying to get motivated to edit it) that is pretty fun. I hope to do more castings like it
Glad to see your videos again!
This one has actually been sitting out there for a couple of weeks just waiting on Bob to get the parts he needed. Stupid supply chain issues 😄
glad I picked yours first this morning! His vid was scheduled next!
Me too 😄 Thanks
As always, a great and informative video! Thanks for sharing your successes and failures, always makes for continuing improvements at the foundry.
Thanks Justin
Thanks for sharing
Thanks Mark
Great casting! The simplest shape sometimes seems the hardest. Well done!
Thanks boss
Thanks for the video as always Perry. I envy the satisfaction of making something a fellow maker needs. A vertical parting plane, feeding from the bottom may have been the simplest way to do a vertical casting of those. That way, you still only need two mold sections. I have been trying to do everything that way lately and it has turned out well . I plan to stick with it, except for those cases when, as you said, you just need to get the job done.
Probably but like the other vertical options I could think of, it would have required building a special flask that I didn't want to go to the trouble of building.
@@swdweeb True. A flask with a removable side is more complex and can be tricky to manipulate. I haven't figured out the best way to do it yet myself.
Had to come see you make the idler pulley for the track machine that he is building.
Hey James, thanks for letting me know.
@@swdweeb I have worked on steel castings big enough to climb inside of them. Huge valve bodies
@@Sidebranches Wow, I'd love to be a part of casting something that big.
You could also do a 3 part mould that will allow you to bottom gate the casting in the drag section under the centre boss. This will create less turbulence. I method all my castings from Alloy steel all they way through to aluminium castings in this manner. Prof Campbell told me that even this is not true counter gravity casting but it's still much better than water falling metal from the joint line.
You're absolutely right. A three-part flask is what I needed to keep the flow as turbulence free as possible. I didnt have a cheek flask set up that was large enough for this pour and I didnt feel like making one. I know, I know it would have been the right thing to do.
Any thoughts on a vertical casting versus a horizontal casting? I'd love to hear them if you do.
You are onto it mate, I have been following your channel for a while now, very good and I think you are a good source for people wanting to get into casting. For the vertical parted mould and orientation I really would only go that way if you can properly feed the casting. It will make it easier moulding it for sure. Casting design has a lot to do with how you orientate your pattern as well. For the wheel casting I think 2 trials need to be done, one a 3 part mould and one as a vertically parted mould. I like your work and I also like seeing Campbell and Puhakka's ideas in practice. As a steel founder I follow only one persons work for steel and that is R. Wlodawer and for iron Stephen Karsay, these gentlemen wrote the bible/bibles (each has books written on their subjects) on metal casting and most of their methods can be copied for non ferrous castings as well. Keep up the good work and cant wait to see the new video. Greetings from the land of the long white cloud New Zealand.
@@wikusdp Like the illiterate newb that I am, I went looking for TH-cam channels. for those guys. Don't tell anyone. I broadened my scope to the written word and found them. I'll have to see about getting a book or two. Thanks
Regarding the trials, I could do those but I'm not sure what I'd be able to see from the two castings with the naked eye. I occasionally think that I need to build a three-part flask for everything that I cast so that I can at least put the runner perpendicular AND above the runner no matter what I'm casting. The drag in this case wouldn't need to be very thick and wouldn't require a lot of sand. Having this set up would allow me to bottom fill just about everything I cast.
One can learn so much from those books, even after 28 years in the trade I find myself referring back to those books on a regular basis. The old boys are no longer with us but their legacy remain. Campbell and Bob will know who they are and I'm sure they will also say the same about them, legends never die. As for our home foundries we will almost never have to follow their methods down to the T but we can use what we can to create better castings. Bob Puhakka has been quiet for a while now wonder what he is up to. He does some very interesting work with aluminium.
Thanks for another amazing video .always look forward to your videos
Thanks Dustin
Useful parts, I love it! At the end of the day the parts look good, are sound enough to do what they're meant for, and the customer is happy. So you did it right. Your "maybe right way" drawing shows the in-gate way below the surface of the drag if I haven't misunderstood. Would you use a cheek flask or an elaborate core to accomplish that? Either way it's hard to say doing all that extra work would be "right" when the parts are perfectly suitable for their intended purpose as-is. 👍
Yes, i like castings made that are usefull & functional things.
@@honthirty_ I think it's pretty neat to see these ones become working parts of something bigger too. ✌
@@tobhomott Ah man!, I didnt ...
Sorry. Edited my post to be more positive.
#%!, seconds after he asks us not to be 'buttheads', and I stuck my foot in it.
@@honthirty_ me too, lol 😄👍
I seriously doubt that either of you would ever be buttheads like the guy I was referring to. His only goal in life was to tell me how useless I am. Ahhh… the joy and power of the delete button 😄
BigstackD sent me to help getting in to melting and casting. Super excited to watch you videos!
Awesome! Thank you for letting me know. You might want to start here th-cam.com/play/PLU1QP34Dv8Y70lJsPZDGnnW2n0A_fhF0w.html Don't hesitate to ask questions
Thanks for the vid Perry!
You’re more than welcome. 😄. Glad I got to be a part of Bob’s project
Keep thinking about how to do this horizontality. Do it in 3 parts with the gate in the bottom. Vertical adds complexity of dealing with blowouts. Or put the gate in the drag and cut off the runner since it will get machined off anyway
A thin cheek flask would accomplish what your suggesting and I agree that it would be better but I wasnt set up for that so I used what I had 😄
@@swdweeb I havent done casting in years but would avoid vertical casting at all costs
Still casting I see. Good job on the wheels.
Yeah, I'm a one trick pony 😄😄
nice casting tried it years ago , lost foam in loose sand and home made green sand couldn't ever get the sand correct .
Yeah that sounds like a recipe for failure although lots of people try it. The barrier to entry is low so a lot of people start there. Thanks for watching 😄
Nice demo. Thanks.
Thanks Ron
Thanks for sharing 👍
No problem 👍
Hey Perry. Have you thought of doing a 3 layer mold with that kind of casting? Basically using your used standard setup but you would put a short vertical gate up starting from your standard horizontal gate and ending it into the center of the wheel? Cheers
Hey Han, the short answer is yes. If you care to waste some time digging through the comments you can find a discussion between me and Tobho Mott.
Looks great bud.
Thanks Bernie 😄
Nice job. You didn't really explain what the wheels are for but I assume they will be used at relatively low RPMs so minor Casting imperfections add character. Thumbs up. 👍
Cheers from Southeast Alaska,
Greg Chaney
Um... Greg... I assumed you'd watch Bob's video and see them actually installed. I guess not 😄 Love you man.
@@swdweeb Your the TH-cam star, why would I watch someone else when you have such great content?
😂 yeah right 😂
you and bob r nice and both ve done good jobs i like it
Thanks
Hey, awesome channel, bigstackD sent me over here. 😎
Thank you! Don’t hesitate to ask questions if you have them
If it is round and works then it is casted right. Lol.
I will humbly disagree 😄 A casting full of porosity is not one that I would want to put on a machine.
If you are not happy with it recast it.
Nicely done! And something useful too!! 😎😁
For a change 😄. I’d love to do more useful stuff. My maybe I need to make that Gingery lathe
@@swdweeb That would be cool!!
Questions on crucibles, the crucible you shown in this video is what size? On crucible size for example #12 is 12 pounds of aluminium that it holds but does that leave any clearance from the top to prevent spillage? Next question has any one tried iron crucible lined with straight Portland cement to prevent iron needles from forming?
Home you might want to check out this if you can stand to listen to me on another video. th-cam.com/video/eMErzjiIL0U/w-d-xo.html
I'm not aware of anyone lining an iron/steel crucible with portland cement. Not to say someone hasn't done it, I'm just not aware of anyone.
Ok, I've put your advise on the weekly planner!
@ 12:55
😄. Good I need it as a daily reminder too
While you have a great casting you are concerned with the way the metal fills the mould. My thought then is how would it be if you were to prop up the end of the flask to give it a few degrees of tilt to encourage the fill to start from the gate end of the mould and fill upward. Would you be happier with that?
Incidentally did you actually see any evidence of bi-film intrusion into the final casting?
I think you're right, tilting the mold would have given a better fill.
I didn't seen anything like huge seams where two flows came together. I did see some flow lines indicating the metal sort of searched for edges to contain it but nothing major. Had I double gated it from opposite sides I might have seen something like that.
@@swdweeb I have had the same "after the fact" advice about tilting the mould especially on big flat parts. I haven't tried it yet but I want to.
@@Preso58 It wouldn't have to be tipped very much, even a CM would do it if the fill rate is low enough
always fun to watch
Thanks
Im watching to learn
And???? Did you learn anything😂
@@swdweeb no. Absolutely nothing! 😝 i lied. I learn a lot from you. I also try to copy your methods of using gates , runners sprues etc. Ofset pouring bason. The last time i did implement it the cast did turn out better. Just cant remeber what i casted back then. 😅
There are times when I can’t remember the last thing I cast either. A problem that I need to solve by casting more often
What size crucibles do you use? Can you melt copper?
I use a #4-6KG crucible. th-cam.com/video/eMErzjiIL0U/w-d-xo.html Yes I can melt copper
Good video as always Perry... I hope all is good with you...
All is good except for being a decrepit old man 😄😄
Perry, I apologize for the off topic question, but I am in a jam. What brand of etching primer/paint are you using for your plaque type castings? They look great and I have been struggling to get similar results. These gift projects always have unfortunate deadlines. Thanks in advance.
Don't let the camera fool you, I still struggle with paint on aluminum. I'm really considering moving to powder coat. I use Rust-oleum self etching primer. It has the number 249322 on the can
Have you ever casted something with a core?
I have cast a few hammers with cores. I didn't use a core on this for a couple of reasons. It had to be dead centered and Bob wasn't 100% of the size when I cast the wheels. I went on the assumption that the machine shop would have a lathe and could give him exactly what he needed.
You got more hair then me lol 😂
Ha that may be but what I have seems to be getting harder and harder to control. I may have to start using...shudder... "product" in my hair 😄
Lol I gave up I keep What hair I have left very short cut don’t have to comb it and it’s wash and go lol... I even cut my own hair the last 35 years last time I had my hair cut professionally was in 2004 lol... I’m 53 years young now 🤪😁
Great Video again. I also made a mistake once ;-)
Master at work! Einstein can't do it..
Well, to be fair there's probably a whole list of things Einstein can't do anymore 😄
When are you going to invest in some spats, or even some pants 😁
Probably after its too late. Isn't that the way we learn?
Ha ha! I was wondering when that advice would kick in!😁
@@swdweeb just messing with you buddy😉
@@Preso58 mark he's braver than me👍
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Braver?? I've often thought of changing my name to Stuart Pid 😄😄
Don't be a butthead... Sound advice... Very cool pour... well, not really... It must have been very hot... Thanks, man... Interesting as always...
Both pours were right about 1325F. 700ish C????
Great video as always... Not much to say other than "let's go Brandon" 😂
Well I hope you’re referring to the “traditional” use of the phrase and not to me directly 😄😄
I am planning a project to put on youtube, I am putting rubber tracks on a 1948 Ford 8N Tractor and need 4 Idlers, How can I contact you to get your help on getting them cast, maybe your email
Email is in the “about” tab of the channel. Swdweeb@gmail.com