I have four CT 90s in my garage (2 in running condition) and really appreciate what you have done here. Helps me have a better understanding of what I a working with. I will share this with others. Great job!
I dont know about anyone else but this centrifical clutch has always been one of lifes deep and dark mysteries to me and this has helped me understand a little better, particularily the adjustment mechanism.
As a current owner of a 1973 Honda Trail 90 or CT-90 I really appreciate this video. As a matter of facrt, I think it is about the coolest CT90 video EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So cool!!! Great Job!!!!!
Great video and perfect timing. In the process of setting valves, resetting the camshaft sprocket with TDC and adjusting the timing in my ct90. Watching this vid. helps immensely!
Enjoyed this video thoroughly! I just made the purchase of a '67 ct90. Need to resolve carburetor and no spark issues in the short-term. Hoping to restore it completely this winter. Cheers from Vaudreuil (just west of Montreal) Canada!
I appreciate your comments on my video, I really enjoyed machining and building up this engine. I don't know if you have resolved your spark and carb issues, but this link to a post at my blog may help: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2019/02/my-approach-to-getting-ct90-that-wont.html Mike
Just came across this video today and must say thank you for your work, time and effort to make this video, I now have a better idea how the gearbox works.
Awesome work. You have done great work both here and on the Blog. Helping many of us that are working on these wonderful machines. Thank you for sharing.
That is absolutely brilliant to see everything moving and how it all works. I really appreciate all the work you have done to show us how it works, very clever stuff. the clutch is interesting how that works!
Wow! Thank you, this was fantastic. Thank you for taking the time to make all those cuts so we can see the inside of the engine, and then even going so far as to take us through all the working motions. Wish I could give you a double like or something. Thank you.
Great work!!! I would use a plain back ground in your videos. My eyes are tracking all of your equipment in back ground. I thinks it’s the hunter and gather in the human brain. Love this video!!! Hope your work is in a motorcycle Museum... Thank You
Wow! Thanks for this. I've really gotten into the little Hondas over the last 10 years and now have (3) 1965 S90, 1966 CM91, and a 1980 CT110. I love this video. Subscribed!
Great work mate .... one of the best videos ever ..... shows everything you could want to see of one of these fantastic little motors. Will def like and subscribe
just adding another comment that this is tremendously helpful to me. thank you so much, Im currently diagnosing a geabox problem with my 67.... this is incredibly helpful
That for the positive comments! I don't have any CT110 video's yet, but I have a CT100 that is in the back of the shop that I plan on bringing back to life at some point and when I do I'll try and make a few specific CT110 video's.
Very cool,I always wanted to know how the clutch disengaged when shifting,and I also wanted to see the clutch adjustment action thank you this was a Super interesting video you have a new subscriber👍
Great video I have a 125cc Chinese atv with a honda clone engine It starts fine, but when you ride it over a certain revs, not very high the engine vibration is unbelievable, spoke to someone who said it could be A lose fly wheel, not that Or a damaged clutch pack, stripped the clutch pack and all seems fine Please can someone help
With time and effort just about anything is possible, so I think you could modify a CT90 to be started with a drill, but I think it would be much easier to get new points, plug and clean your carb to get your bike to where it starts on the first or second kick. The other option would be to change out the engine to an electric start Lifan.
So i am busy with a quad semi auto gsmoon . Have to make parts because nothing availible in my country . Anyway. Built s clutch up for it which was the issue but cant see inside what the symtom is now is gear lever is super tight wondering if my springs on clutch are to tight and making clutch hard to decompress . There is clearance . Question should it be easy like by hand to push in? Or decompress?
I'll look at doing a cutaway of a clutch in the future, but I did do a post at my blog on building up a clutch pack that gives you a pretty good look into a clutch assembly. Here is a link: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-clutch-pack-assembly-detail-build.html
Thanks for a great video. Been looking for a guide as to how the kick starter engages. My kick starter doesnt always engage (CT110) but I get round it by putting the bike in gear and it seems to re engage then and works again temporarily - any ideas on a fix without splitting the crank case ??????????????????
One condition that can cause the kick starter to not turn over the engine consistently is a slipping clutch. The kick starter actually turns over the engine by driving through the clutch assembly, so if your clutch is slipping it just doesn't turn over the engine fast enough to consistently start the bike. This problem usually gets progressively worse with time. You might try adjusting your clutch to see if that helps, but it sounds like it may be time for a clutch rebuild. I hope that helps and that you figure out what is up with your CT110.
@@michaelmineart1889 Michael. Thanks for that helpful information. I will follow your advice and check the clutch. Your video is the single biggest source of information in one video that I have found in years of trawling TH-cam for information on the CT90 CT110. Having rebuilt eight of these bikes it is still fantastic to find a clear information source to further my knowledge of how these fantastic engines work. These little Postie bikes are much sought after on this side of the pond. They were never officially imported to the UK by Honda but they have a big following here. Keep up the good work
Hey Michael - your advice on the clutch slipping was correct. You saved the day for me. I happened to have a spare complete clutch which I removed from an ATC125 some years ago. I popped it in and and now all is working perfect. The old clutch was fully worn and no amount of adjustment could fix it. I now also full understand the mechanics of it and have added this to my knowledge bank. I have now got a fully restored yellow CT110 - 8 speed which spent most of its life with a Dutch medical charity in Papua New Guinea. Only a Honda CT / Cub could have such a life story. I'm confident it will have another fifty years of easier life herein the UK. Keep up the good work.
When all the gears are in the neutral position there is no physical engagement between the dogs/pins and the mating holes on the adjacent gears, so no torque is transferred by this path to the output shaft that drives the sprocket. What is actually driving the output shaft/sprocket is the very small amount of torque being transferred to the output shaft by the small amount of friction between the inside diameter of the drive gears on the shaft that are design with clearance so the gear can freely spin on the shaft when the engine is in neutral, but the interface is not frictionless so a small amount of torque is transferred. In the video I put my finger on the output sprocket when it is in neutral to show that it is physically disengaged. My cutaway engine doesn't have any oil in it and I've just sprayed some light oil on all of the interfaces to help everything spin, but in a normal engine with oil the friction at these interfaces is even less. On some CT90's if you lift the rear well off the ground while the engine is running and in neutral you'll see that the wheel may rotate if there isn't much friction in the rear wheel assembly. Thanks for the question, Mike
Awesome video! I just picked up a non running 1969 ct 90 and starting to clean her up. I noticed when I put it in high gear and shift through the gears the rear wheel still turns really easy no compression sounds from engine. When I put it in low gear and push it it is definetly harder to push and you can hear the engine turning over. Where would you suggest I start looking?
It's really tough to say without actually being there with you and the bike to see what is really going on. My first guess is that you might not have the sub-transmission all the way in the high gear position. With the sub-transmission it is very easy to move the lever and get it in to the low range position because with the way the gears are configured there are many positions where the gears will easily engage. When you move the level to the high range position there are only a few positions where the dogs that drive the gears will engage, so while you have moved the lever in the right direction and it seems to hit a stop your actually not all the way into the high range. To get it all the way into the high range you can continue to apply pressure to the lever while you roll the bike forward a bit and have it in 1st gear and see if it finally gets into the high range position. You should feel/hear a clunk when the dogs in the sub-transmission finally engage. Good luck and I hope this helps you with your CT90!
Hello sir, why the motorcycle do not move even when you stop at 2nd or 3rd gear unlike the clutch motorcycle when you stop and forgot to press the clutch lever
Thanks for the comment! If you go to page 48 in the manual at the following link it shows a diagram of how the oil flows through the engine. ct90-ct110.com/PDFs/CT90_Pre-1977_Bundled_Shop_Manual_PDF.pdf
this thing is like a peice Of Art , I would love to be able to buy one exactly like this and have it turning on a electric motor i swear it would be displayed in my Living Room BTW i just so happen to have a 1960s S90 Motorcycle that is stock and was actually my Dads that he stored in a Climate Controlled inside Space since the 1960s he bought the bike and hardly rode it because he wound up buying a more Comprable Motorcycle to what his freinds and family were riding i’m not sure what exactly my Dad wound up with but i do know his Brother ,my Uncle rode a Honda 750 four in the early 70s with a few Harley guys my Uncle chose the Honda because of its reliability and smooth ride as he and my Aunt toured on that Bike inUpstate New York he had that Motorcycle all dressed out with a Windjammer fairing ,Highway Pegs ,and some other Creature Comforts i remember them stopping by my Grandparents house on that Motorcycle when i was about 7 or 8 years old and i thought it was such a cool Motorcycle in White. i wound up as a adult buying one inBlack i had for years I called it my Baby Gold Wing as i highly optioned mine as well
I recently purchased a Mars orange '73 Honda CT90 w/ 3306 miles. The lights and tailights work. The brakelights are inoperable from both front & rear brakes. I checked bulb, seems ok. I see there's front brake switch and rear brake switch and rear brake switch adjustment.-thinking i may need to adjust here maybe? Any help is appreciated.
The switch in the front brake lever assembly has a small plunger that extends and allows a connection when you pull on the front brake lever. It is not uncommon for these switches to be bad and the plunger broken, but they are cheap and easy to replace. To test the brake light you can disconnect the wires from the front brakes switch from the harness in the headlight bucket and then connect the two wires on the harness to simulate the switch. If your light comes on then all your wiring is good except for the switch in the front brake lever. The other brake switch is mounted down near the pivot for the foot actuated rear brake lever and is connected to the lever with a spring. when you press on the foot brake the spring attached to the lever should pull the plunger in the brake switch. With this switch the plunger can get corroded to the point where it won't move when pulled on by the spring. I've been able to get these working again (sometimes) using WD40, but to test to see if the switch is the issue you can disconnect it from the main harness (the connection is in the battery compartment) and then connect the two wires on the harness together and the brake light should come on (this assumes the key is on). You can also jet use an ohm meter and check the switch itself. I hope this helps, Mike
Hi, No when you depress and hold the gear lever down (or up for that matter...) the clutch is fully disengaged. I've never had a Lifan motor so I can't say for sure if a low range could be added, but my hunch is that you wouldn't be able to take CT90 or CT110 parts and bolt them on to a Lifan to add a low range.
If you currently have a K0 w/o a sub transmission but it is an 89cc overhead cam style engine (not a CT200), then you shouldn't have an issue bolting in a later version K0 engine that has a sub transmission.
@@michaelmineart1889 Thanks for the fast reply! Just acquired an early K0 (vin 10,112) so I think it was right before the change. Will the sub-tran left hand case fit on the pre sub-tran case? From the video it looks like it has a longer counter- shaft to operate the sub-transmission as well. I see quite a few left hand cases for sale and that would be the easiest solution instead of whole engine. I am currently disassembling the engine for inspection. I have joined some groups but I am still waiting on approvals and your page and videos have been a big help
Brilliant work making the demo engine!!! How hard is it to retro-fit the dual-range sub transmission if your CT-110 did not have it fitted from factory?
Thanks for your comment on my cut away engine! With respect to your question, I've never sat down and figured out what exactly which parts you would need to do the change, but from an off hand perspective you would need several new housings, and the transmission components and I can't manage it would be cheaper than just buying a used CT-110 engine with a sub transmission and rebuilding it. If you go to one of the websites that have schematics showing the parts breakdown for CT-110's you can figure out what is different between the two engine configurations. Good luck if you decide to go down that path and it might be a fun project to do to see what is actually involved.
@@michaelmineart1889 Thanks for your reply. I will give it a go. Nearly all of the ct-110 bikes used for our postal service here in Australia never had the sub transmission fitted. The agricultural versions did have it though but are a bit harder to find. Many thanks.
Hey Nate, I'm glad you liked my video and its a bummer that you still can't see my web site. If you're over at a friends or family member you might see if they can get to my site and that may give you a lead on what's going on, but I my best guess is that an add blocker is the culprit. If you have a smart phone you might try using that and see if you can get to my site. I think I may have the parts to do a CT200/push rod cut-away engine, but probably won't get to it until this fall. Mike
Hi Brian, On any CT90 with a dual range transmission like your 1967 K0, to change out the front sprocket you need to do a little disassembly on the left side of your engine to get down where you can replace the front sprocket. You'll need a couple of gaskets and its also a good time to replace a couple of seals on the left side cover since it is apart, but not mandatory. I don't plan on making a video of the process anytime soon, but I do have a detailed post at my blog on how to reassemble a CT90 engine that would have the info you would need to get the engine back together and also give you a good idea on what you need to remove to get down to the front sprocket. Here is a link to that post and if you scroll down about half way through the post you'll find the info that should help you out. ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-engine-reassembly.html Thanks, Mike
I have a 1974 ct90 with 1494 miles It has an intermittent ignition issue I’m guessing the coil I really would like to know it’s reliable before I take it to the mountains Any suggestions? Also is there any way to start these bikes without a battery Seems Honda really messed up when designing these trail bikes Leaving the key on for any amount of time without the engine running will leave you stranded
Without seeing you're bike its hard to say what your intermittent ignition issue might be, but Ct90 coils are generally pretty reliable. The plug wire on coils can get old and brittle and the cap that connects to the spark plug can become loose and cause issues. I have a post at my blog at the link below that may be of some help with your ignition issues: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2019/02/my-approach-to-getting-ct90-that-wont.html You do need a good battery with a solid 6 volts to have a bike that starts reliably. A newer solid state rectifier can help with leakage issues that can run down your battery. If you search on Pardue Brothers they make and sell a nice rectifier for the CT90.
Wonderful! I have a Kinner B5 Radial aircraft cut-away engine in my dining room from 1937. Would love to purchase this engine if you want to sell it someday. Cheers, Kirb
AMAZING! The 1976 trail 90 is the first motorcycle I ever rode by myself when I was 8 years old, I was KING of the WORLD that day!
NVMCRIDER I know the feeling! I went from a 5hp mini bike to a Honda Z50 to an IT 175
I have four CT 90s in my garage (2 in running condition) and really appreciate what you have done here. Helps me have a better understanding of what I a working with. I will share this with others. Great job!
umpquajohn 4 ! Man you have a rental biz waiting to be utilized. But seriously, they are cool, and to have 4, your buddies shud be happy
I dont know about anyone else but this centrifical clutch has always been one of lifes deep and dark mysteries to me and this has helped me understand a little better, particularily the adjustment mechanism.
That was a lot of fun to watch. I know that this took a long time to build the engine. Thanks for sharing!
I've been reading your website for quite a while but somehow I didn't know about these videos. This is tremendous. Just absolutely incredible.
Not going lie, probably the coolest video I’ve ever seen. Nice work!
As a current owner of a 1973 Honda Trail 90 or CT-90 I really appreciate this video. As a matter of facrt, I think it is about the coolest CT90 video EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So cool!!! Great Job!!!!!
That shows the thing of beauty that engine was and still is , as they still building them , amazing piece of Japanese engineering . 😎👍
Hands down the very depiction of a Honda engine and all it's internal workings. Thank you.
This is amazing. I have re-built ct-90s for many years, and this is awesome!
Thank you for taking the time to build and film this cut-away ct-90 motor. Its a very informative display and teaching aid.
Enlightening! Thank you for offering this. Showing the starter in action is helpful. One complete cycle.
This is cool! It's SO interesting to see what is happening in there!
Brilliant. Thanks for posting. In awe of this blokes mechanical prowess. What did us old blokes do before TH-cam came along ?
Great video and perfect timing. In the process of setting valves, resetting the camshaft sprocket with TDC and adjusting the timing in my ct90. Watching this vid. helps immensely!
So good! I’m repairing a 1965 Honda 50. Engine is similar. This has been great in understanding how it works.
Enjoyed this video thoroughly! I just made the purchase of a '67 ct90. Need to resolve carburetor and no spark issues in the short-term. Hoping to restore it completely this winter. Cheers from Vaudreuil (just west of Montreal) Canada!
I appreciate your comments on my video, I really enjoyed machining and building up this engine. I don't know if you have resolved your spark and carb issues, but this link to a post at my blog may help: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2019/02/my-approach-to-getting-ct90-that-wont.html
Mike
#the best video I have seen#
Just came across this video today and must say thank you for your work, time and effort to make this video, I now have a better idea how the gearbox works.
This is an excellent resource for those of us who learn visually! Thanks for taking the time to share the results of your efforts with us.
Awesome work. You have done great work both here and on the Blog. Helping many of us that are working on these wonderful machines. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for the effort of building this setup. It was exactly what I was looking for. Fascinating piece of gearbox.
This is great. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Keep posting CT 90 videos please
I love my ct 110, this helps me appreciate it more.
And thank you for showing how easy it is to adjust the clutch....great videos !
That is absolutely brilliant to see everything moving and how it all works. I really appreciate all the work you have done to show us how it works, very clever stuff. the clutch is interesting how that works!
Wow what an incredible video! Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to make this. Excellent editing as well.
Wow! Thank you, this was fantastic. Thank you for taking the time to make all those cuts so we can see the inside of the engine, and then even going so far as to take us through all the working motions. Wish I could give you a double like or something. Thank you.
Thank you for doing this! What an amazing demonstration!
Great work!!! I would use a plain back ground in your videos. My eyes are tracking all of your equipment in back ground. I thinks it’s the hunter and gather in the human brain. Love this video!!! Hope your work is in a motorcycle Museum... Thank You
Wow! Thanks for this. I've really gotten into the little Hondas over the last 10 years and now have (3) 1965 S90, 1966 CM91, and a 1980 CT110.
I love this video. Subscribed!
I am impressed. Lot of work & very well done. Thanks.
This is amazing! Love all of your blog posts. Helped me out with my first CT90 rebuild. Keep up the good work, Mike!
Great work on this, lots of effort put into it. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, really appreciate all the work you put into creating the display and showing how it operates.
Incredible. Thanks for educating us.
Thanks for your great job exposing the moving parts. It was really awesome!!
Mesmerizing! Thank you! I’ll have a whole new appreciation while I’m motoring around.
Very well done, and beneficial to many. Thank you for your time to create this very helpful demonstration.
Thumbs up Showed my son who rides a dirt bike. He careless but I enjoyed it
Great work mate .... one of the best videos ever ..... shows everything you could want to see of one of these fantastic little motors. Will def like and subscribe
I could watch this for hours.
This would be a great tool in the shop to have next time I hear a new noise coming from the little Trail 90.
just adding another comment that this is tremendously helpful to me. thank you so much, Im currently diagnosing a geabox problem with my 67.... this is incredibly helpful
Glad it helped!
Great piece of work!! Many thanks! Do you have any videos on CT110?
That for the positive comments! I don't have any CT110 video's yet, but I have a CT100 that is in the back of the shop that I plan on bringing back to life at some point and when I do I'll try and make a few specific CT110 video's.
OMG this is the best thing to come out of COVID lockdown
Very cool,I always wanted to know how the clutch disengaged when shifting,and I also wanted to see the clutch adjustment action thank you this was a Super interesting video you have a new subscriber👍
Excellent video. The flashing light was hard on my eyes though.
the best video on the internet. thanks so much!
Thing of beauty. Just amazing to see... Speachless.
That's so cool! Thanks for sharing!
Great video
I have a 125cc Chinese atv with a honda clone engine
It starts fine, but when you ride it over a certain revs, not very high the engine vibration is unbelievable, spoke to someone who said it could be
A lose fly wheel, not that
Or a damaged clutch pack, stripped the clutch pack and all seems fine
Please can someone help
Excellent, amezing, awesome beautiful practical explanation, thanks for your efforts...
Good on you
Excellent! Thanks for sharing.
Most amazing video on exposing bike engine
this is so awesome, i cant believe its only had 4k views
Exceptionally helpful, thanks!
Thank you sir! This is a masterpiece
I think you have lowered the compression. Seriously this is a beautiful teaching example.
Great little engines but hard to start with the kick start, sometimes. Would it be possible to start an operating engine using a drill motor?
With time and effort just about anything is possible, so I think you could modify a CT90 to be started with a drill, but I think it would be much easier to get new points, plug and clean your carb to get your bike to where it starts on the first or second kick. The other option would be to change out the engine to an electric start Lifan.
Cool video! Thank you for making the cut away engine.
Meglio di un manuale di servizio...grazie...!!!
So i am busy with a quad semi auto gsmoon . Have to make parts because nothing availible in my country . Anyway. Built s clutch up for it which was the issue but cant see inside what the symtom is now is gear lever is super tight wondering if my springs on clutch are to tight and making clutch hard to decompress . There is clearance . Question should it be easy like by hand to push in? Or decompress?
AWESOME video!!! Thank you for making this!!
Very cool! Any chance you could do a cutaway of the clutch?
I'll look at doing a cutaway of a clutch in the future, but I did do a post at my blog on building up a clutch pack that gives you a pretty good look into a clutch assembly. Here is a link: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-clutch-pack-assembly-detail-build.html
Thanks for a great video. Been looking for a guide as to how the kick starter engages. My kick starter doesnt always engage (CT110) but I get round it by putting the bike in gear and it seems to re engage then and works again temporarily - any ideas on a fix without splitting the crank case ??????????????????
One condition that can cause the kick starter to not turn over the engine consistently is a slipping clutch. The kick starter actually turns over the engine by driving through the clutch assembly, so if your clutch is slipping it just doesn't turn over the engine fast enough to consistently start the bike. This problem usually gets progressively worse with time. You might try adjusting your clutch to see if that helps, but it sounds like it may be time for a clutch rebuild. I hope that helps and that you figure out what is up with your CT110.
@@michaelmineart1889 Michael. Thanks for that helpful information. I will follow your advice and check the clutch. Your video is the single biggest source of information in one video that I have found in years of trawling TH-cam for information on the CT90 CT110. Having rebuilt eight of these bikes it is still fantastic to find a clear information source to further my knowledge of how these fantastic engines work. These little Postie bikes are much sought after on this side of the pond. They were never officially imported to the UK by Honda but they have a big following here. Keep up the good work
Hey Michael - your advice on the clutch slipping was correct. You saved the day for me. I happened to have a spare complete clutch which I removed from an ATC125 some years ago. I popped it in and and now all is working perfect. The old clutch was fully worn and no amount of adjustment could fix it. I now also full understand the mechanics of it and have added this to my knowledge bank. I have now got a fully restored yellow CT110 - 8 speed which spent most of its life with a Dutch medical charity in Papua New Guinea. Only a Honda CT / Cub could have such a life story. I'm confident it will have another fifty years of easier life herein the UK. Keep up the good work.
@@jamesfox1514 Excellent, I'm glad to hear that rebuilding your clutch fixed your problem. Have fun ridding your CT110!
at 4:45 in Neutral Before the shift to First, why is the output cog sprocket still turning
When all the gears are in the neutral position there is no physical engagement between the dogs/pins and the mating holes on the adjacent gears, so no torque is transferred by this path to the output shaft that drives the sprocket. What is actually driving the output shaft/sprocket is the very small amount of torque being transferred to the output shaft by the small amount of friction between the inside diameter of the drive gears on the shaft that are design with clearance so the gear can freely spin on the shaft when the engine is in neutral, but the interface is not frictionless so a small amount of torque is transferred. In the video I put my finger on the output sprocket when it is in neutral to show that it is physically disengaged. My cutaway engine doesn't have any oil in it and I've just sprayed some light oil on all of the interfaces to help everything spin, but in a normal engine with oil the friction at these interfaces is even less. On some CT90's if you lift the rear well off the ground while the engine is running and in neutral you'll see that the wheel may rotate if there isn't much friction in the rear wheel assembly. Thanks for the question, Mike
really awesome video. Thank you for this.
Beautiful creation!
Awesome video! I just picked up a non running 1969 ct 90 and starting to clean her up. I noticed when I put it in high gear and shift through the gears the rear wheel still turns really easy no compression sounds from engine. When I put it in low gear and push it it is definetly harder to push and you can hear the engine turning over. Where would you suggest I start looking?
It's really tough to say without actually being there with you and the bike to see what is really going on. My first guess is that you might not have the sub-transmission all the way in the high gear position. With the sub-transmission it is very easy to move the lever and get it in to the low range position because with the way the gears are configured there are many positions where the gears will easily engage. When you move the level to the high range position there are only a few positions where the dogs that drive the gears will engage, so while you have moved the lever in the right direction and it seems to hit a stop your actually not all the way into the high range. To get it all the way into the high range you can continue to apply pressure to the lever while you roll the bike forward a bit and have it in 1st gear and see if it finally gets into the high range position. You should feel/hear a clunk when the dogs in the sub-transmission finally engage. Good luck and I hope this helps you with your CT90!
Hello sir, why the motorcycle do not move even when you stop at 2nd or 3rd gear unlike the clutch motorcycle when you stop and forgot to press the clutch lever
Wow, I just spent all day disassembling a ct90 engine, and now I get to see how it works. (My rod bearing is busted)
Do you think we can add the Lo Hi case to a Honda or a clone . Need the internal shaft ( longer ) but the case of the engine is the same ?
great job building and showing the engine..thanks for the effort,,,
Best. CT90 Info. Ever!
coolest thing ive seen tonight!
Great video! I am trying to see how the rod bearing gets oil. Can you shed any light on that?
Thanks for the comment! If you go to page 48 in the manual at the following link it shows a diagram of how the oil flows through the engine. ct90-ct110.com/PDFs/CT90_Pre-1977_Bundled_Shop_Manual_PDF.pdf
I knew how it all worked sir, but to see it in action is fascinating :) Thanks... ps, does anyone know the wrist pin diameter in a ct90?
Excelente saludos desde Colombia me sirve mucho para mí taller
Thanks for your video👏 👨🔧🏍
Lots of jiggly-bits! Thanks for posting!
this thing is like a peice Of Art , I would love to be able to buy one exactly like this and have it turning on a electric motor i swear it would be displayed in my Living Room BTW i just so happen to have a 1960s S90 Motorcycle that is stock and was actually my Dads that he stored in a Climate Controlled inside Space since the 1960s he bought the bike and hardly rode it because he wound up buying a more Comprable Motorcycle to what his freinds and family were riding i’m not sure what exactly my Dad wound up with but i do know his Brother ,my Uncle rode a Honda 750 four in the early 70s with a few Harley guys my Uncle chose the Honda because of its reliability and smooth ride as he and my Aunt toured on that Bike inUpstate New York he had that Motorcycle all dressed out with a Windjammer fairing ,Highway Pegs ,and some other Creature Comforts i remember them stopping by my Grandparents house on that Motorcycle when i was about 7 or 8 years old and i thought it was such a cool Motorcycle in White. i wound up as a adult buying one inBlack i had for years I called it my Baby Gold Wing as i highly optioned mine as well
You are the best man thank you so much!
I recently purchased a Mars orange '73 Honda CT90 w/ 3306 miles. The lights and tailights work. The brakelights are inoperable from both front & rear brakes. I checked bulb, seems ok. I see there's front brake switch and rear brake switch and rear brake switch adjustment.-thinking i may need to adjust here maybe? Any help is appreciated.
The switch in the front brake lever assembly has a small plunger that extends and allows a connection when you pull on the front brake lever. It is not uncommon for these switches to be bad and the plunger broken, but they are cheap and easy to replace. To test the brake light you can disconnect the wires from the front brakes switch from the harness in the headlight bucket and then connect the two wires on the harness to simulate the switch. If your light comes on then all your wiring is good except for the switch in the front brake lever. The other brake switch is mounted down near the pivot for the foot actuated rear brake lever and is connected to the lever with a spring. when you press on the foot brake the spring attached to the lever should pull the plunger in the brake switch. With this switch the plunger can get corroded to the point where it won't move when pulled on by the spring. I've been able to get these working again (sometimes) using WD40, but to test to see if the switch is the issue you can disconnect it from the main harness (the connection is in the battery compartment) and then connect the two wires on the harness together and the brake light should come on (this assumes the key is on). You can also jet use an ohm meter and check the switch itself. I hope this helps, Mike
@@michaelmineart1889 thank you alot! 👍 i wrote down these directions, I'll check it out at daybreak. Thank you so much!
Great video. Thank you.
Waw what an amazing video.
So if I hold the gear lever down the clutch stays engaged?
Also could.the low range be added to a new Lifan 125cc motor?
Hi, No when you depress and hold the gear lever down (or up for that matter...) the clutch is fully disengaged. I've never had a Lifan motor so I can't say for sure if a low range could be added, but my hunch is that you wouldn't be able to take CT90 or CT110 parts and bolt them on to a Lifan to add a low range.
Is it possible to put a later K0 engine with the sub transmission in a early KO with no mods?
If you currently have a K0 w/o a sub transmission but it is an 89cc overhead cam style engine (not a CT200), then you shouldn't have an issue bolting in a later version K0 engine that has a sub transmission.
@@michaelmineart1889 Thanks for the fast reply! Just acquired an early K0 (vin 10,112) so I think it was right before the change. Will the sub-tran left hand case fit on the pre sub-tran case? From the video it looks like it has a longer counter- shaft to operate the sub-transmission as well. I see quite a few left hand cases for sale and that would be the easiest solution instead of whole engine. I am currently disassembling the engine for inspection. I have joined some groups but I am still waiting on approvals and your page and videos have been a big help
Brilliant work making the demo engine!!! How hard is it to retro-fit the dual-range sub transmission if your CT-110 did not have it fitted from factory?
Thanks for your comment on my cut away engine! With respect to your question, I've never sat down and figured out what exactly which parts you would need to do the change, but from an off hand perspective you would need several new housings, and the transmission components and I can't manage it would be cheaper than just buying a used CT-110 engine with a sub transmission and rebuilding it. If you go to one of the websites that have schematics showing the parts breakdown for CT-110's you can figure out what is different between the two engine configurations. Good luck if you decide to go down that path and it might be a fun project to do to see what is actually involved.
@@michaelmineart1889 Thanks for your reply. I will give it a go. Nearly all of the ct-110 bikes used for our postal service here in Australia never had the sub transmission fitted. The agricultural versions did have it though but are a bit harder to find. Many thanks.
Hi Mike ! .
This is a great video . I still can't past your home page, I wonder why not . -Nate
Hey Nate,
I'm glad you liked my video and its a bummer that you still can't see my web site. If you're over at a friends or family member you might see if they can get to my site and that may give you a lead on what's going on, but I my best guess is that an add blocker is the culprit. If you have a smart phone you might try using that and see if you can get to my site. I think I may have the parts to do a CT200/push rod cut-away engine, but probably won't get to it until this fall.
Mike
@@michaelmineart1889 sorry for the late reply Mike . I'm sure it is the ad bloker, I've tried to shut it off or whitelist but no joy . -Nate
wow nice work sir thank you
Would it be possible to do a video on changing the front sprocket on a 1967 K0 CT90. I cannot seem to figure it out from the schematics
Hi Brian,
On any CT90 with a dual range transmission like your 1967 K0, to change out the front sprocket you need to do a little disassembly on the left side of your engine to get down where you can replace the front sprocket. You'll need a couple of gaskets and its also a good time to replace a couple of seals on the left side cover since it is apart, but not mandatory.
I don't plan on making a video of the process anytime soon, but I do have a detailed post at my blog on how to reassemble a CT90 engine that would have the info you would need to get the engine back together and also give you a good idea on what you need to remove to get down to the front sprocket.
Here is a link to that post and if you scroll down about half way through the post you'll find the info that should help you out.
ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-engine-reassembly.html
Thanks,
Mike
Michael Mineart,
Thanks your reassembly blog is excellent!!
Enjoyed this very much.thanks👍
Nice job
I have a 1974 ct90 with 1494 miles It has an intermittent ignition issue
I’m guessing the coil
I really would like to know it’s reliable before I take it to the mountains
Any suggestions?
Also is there any way to start these bikes without a battery
Seems Honda really messed up when designing these trail bikes
Leaving the key on for any amount of time without the engine running will leave you stranded
Without seeing you're bike its hard to say what your intermittent ignition issue might be, but Ct90 coils are generally pretty reliable. The plug wire on coils can get old and brittle and the cap that connects to the spark plug can become loose and cause issues. I have a post at my blog at the link below that may be of some help with your ignition issues: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2019/02/my-approach-to-getting-ct90-that-wont.html
You do need a good battery with a solid 6 volts to have a bike that starts reliably. A newer solid state rectifier can help with leakage issues that can run down your battery. If you search on Pardue Brothers they make and sell a nice rectifier for the CT90.
Wonderful! I have a Kinner B5 Radial aircraft cut-away engine in my dining room from 1937. Would love to purchase this engine if you want to sell it someday.
Cheers, Kirb
Super cool! Thank you
. Trying to figure out how the clutch works so I can fix it properly. Now I have an idea. 91000 mile CT90.
incredible. thank you!
Great work
Nice work
Thank you for this!