How to Install a Kitchen Sink, Faucet, & Garbage Disposal||Replacing Cast Iron with Stainless Steel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- If you’re looking to get a new sink for your kitchen and DIY it, this video will walk you thru the removal and install. My parent’s kitchen sink is heavy cast-iron with a few chips, so they want to replace it with a stainless steel one. They’re also replacing the faucet and garbage disposal, so I’ll be covering those as well.
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0:00 Sink removal
4:58 Faucet install
8:45 Sink install
11:49 Garbage disposal install
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#sinkreplacement #garbagedisposalinstall #faucetinstall - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you for the fantastic instructional video. This is my first time doing any serious home repairs. Yikes! I was terrified, thinking that it was beyond my skill level to do. However, you walked this woman through step-by-step, and made it understandable. I made a list as you were demonstrating of what I would need from Home Depot. And confidently was able to change a sink, faucet, and garbage disposal. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Now, if you could show me how to remodel my bathroom, you’ll save this single mom a lot of money. Look forward to seeing your other videos. 😊🔆😎
I can't make any promises on a remodel video but there might be a possibility of one in 2024.
Good job. One thing id recommend doing differently is to not put teflon tape on the threads of the faucet for the supply lines. The threads do not make the seal for the supply lines. The flared end is what seals. The plastic ones like you are using have flared ends that the nut pulls it tighter into the shanks. Braided ones have a rubber flare washer that makes the seal. If you use Teflon tape on the shank it could make the supplies leak if a part of it gets pulled up into the shank. Dont use any sealant there. Just tighten the nuts. Only use sealants where the threads make the seal like a male/female connection Not on flared ends or where a rubber washer/o-ring orother rubber seal makes the seal. Otherwise good job
Very informative and detailed. Thank you. Also appreciate the quiet background....I had to escape a video from someone else who had loud rock banging on his video. Like who tf wants to hear that when concentrating on the instructors video.
Thnx
This is a great tutorial! Ty so much!
This really helps me Sir …I have to do one just like it thanks
Thanks man.
Very informative ! I think I’m able to switch my sinks all by myself! Idk why it was so easy to watch and follow this step by step video. Maybe it was how clear and to the point you are, or maybe it was the uniform and your pretty eyes 😍
Hahaha thank you, I do look good in uniform if I say so myself 😎
The only thing I would recommend is buying a quality thick gage stainless sink and a stainless steal interior/bladed disposal because most times it's your garbage disposal material becomes corroded that causes it to be replaced. Also raise your diswasher hose up above the connection to the garbage disposal so you dom't get back flow of garbage in your dishwasher, "An aounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".
No one mentions the exiting clips underneath. Do you have to loosen them first?
Yes I would loosen them first and then scrap the sealant around the edges. Not every sink has the clips but if the sink has them by loosening them first, then that will allow the sink to start to lift as the seal is broken which will make breaking the rest of the seal even easier. That is my experience though, a professional might say to do it differently.
Do you have to change the garbage disposal? Or can you use the old one? Are they all compatible?
I didn't have to change the disposal but it was really old and very loud. It was also very much stuck to the sink and I felt like I was going to break something trying to get it off. I would guess parts of it had rusted and did not want to break free. They are all compatible as far as I know. Though more powerful disposals are larger so just make sure it has the space under your sink to not interfere with anything.
What is the name of the working light?
It's the workbench light from Ryobi, part of the 18V line
www.amazon.com/Ryobi-P727-Rotating-Integrated-Mounting/dp/B01M0MMR8R/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3GO1B4NCWS0D8&keywords=ONE%2B+18V+Cordless+LED+Workbench+Light&qid=1685922198&sprefix=one%2B+18v+cordless+led+workbench+light+%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-2
@@thediygrunt Thank you very much for the quick reply
Can someone please recommend what to do if I need to make the laminate countertop a few mm bigger? I am worried since it’s a small amount if I use a jigsaw of cracking the top since there isn’t much to bite into
Try a using a router to cut and use painters tape around the opening of the countertop or at least in the area you need to cut. The tape will help reduce the chances of damaging the laminate you don't want to remove, the chances of a chunk of laminate breaking will be very very low so the lip of the sink should cover up any small issues. Set up a stop for the router so it cant cut anything more than what you want. Wood pieces and clamps to hold it in place will make an effective stop for the router in this case.
@@thediygrunt thank you for the advice. I’ve been doing some research and that seems to be the best approach.
Blue tape before cut don't worry the lip of sink will cover
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