Bambu Lab P1S
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Pick up some Voxel PLA Pro for you Bambu Lab P1P
voxelpla.com/
Now admittedly I'm a bit late to the Bambu Lab hype train. When the X1-C came out I seen it shown on almost every channel on TH-cam, I didn't really get the hype, I thought it was just like any other 3D printer released around that time. However that couldn't have been further from the truth. After finally getting my hands on the X1-C I understood how game changing this printer actually was. Well fast forward to today and Bambu Lab has released a new printer the P1S and I have one and once again Bambu Lab has knocked this one out of the park
X1-X, P1S and P1P 3D printers
us.store.bambulab.com/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
You don't need to get X1C just for a hardened nozzle and extruder. You can get a hardened extruder and nozzle for the P1 series as well. It costs about $30 for an extruder and $10 for a nozzle.
Perfect! I was hoping this was possible, thanks for saving me $600
What part of the extruder is hardened? The gear that pushes the filament?
@@axel_fagerberg the gear and nozzle are both hardened steel
2:20 very cool! This is the first channel that mentioned the upgrade kit. Awesome to see that consumer friendly option! 🤞 for a non proprietary and offline way to use them
I don't know about the P1P, but the X1C is both offline and g-code compatible. Most people use the app so those feature don't have high visibility.
Actually a couple of channels mentioned it last week.
One thing about the base P1P is you don't have to force down the filament tube to get it to fit under the lid. You don't want to compromise the print head or the filament feed if you don't have to. I'd suggest making a sloped riser for the top of the PIP and putting the glass lid on top of that. Best of both worlds.
I absolutely love my X1C, and am glad I saved up for it
Don't forget to include glow in the dark filaments with the carbon fiber abrasive filaments.
7:18 absolutely correct, it just works.
love how much of an evolving world 3D printing is
I wonder if you can use a fpv camera in the place of the p1p camera? Use the p1p usb port that is on the screen for power.
I bought a Ultimaker S5 for work, the whole set with material station and filter top cost about 10.000 euro.....its insane what you can get these days for waaaay less.
@MajorHardware: How is the dimensional accuracy of items printed? I've seen a dozen reviews and couldn't tell anyone testing how accurate it is. Am wondering if the X1C (w/LiDar flow & pressure advance) or the P1S would be the better choice for getting accurate measuring prints?
Have you ever thought about doing a class on whatever CAD software you use? I really struggle learning that stuff and I just get frustrated. I'd even pay for a zoom class or something.
I would recommend searching up "Paul mchworter fusion 360". He has a ton of incredible courses (over 700 videos) and his Fusion tutorial is amazing
That match-cut edit for "the AMS system" was *chef's kiss* 😘
I've found that printing PLA on my X1C on a heated bed results in a lot of overheating issues; I solved it by taking the lid off (I don't have an AMS) but it's still really obvious that the printer just isn't meant for PLA. I would *assume* that the P1S would have a similar issue? Certainly it feels to me like the logic should be: Definitely only going to print PLA/PETG, get a P1P. Want to print ABS/ASA or at least have that capability for the future, get a P1S. Want to print abrasives or at least have the potential for the future, get an X1C.
Also, I do think that we *all* need to add a layer of nuance to "what should my first printer be?" I agree that if one belongs to the part of the hobby that isn't interested in building or tinkering with the printer itself but just wants a tool for creating parts, Bambu is the way to go (baring concerns about the walled garden). But I don't think it really teaches you much about how the printer actually *works* so it's my opinion that if one is indeed interested in "tinkering," then a Prusa kit is a better choice - you'll still get the nice reliable machine that helps build confidence and engagement with 3d printing, but you'll also get some experience with how the machine actually goes together, and then have access to that huge user community for ideas on modifications and whatnot.
I want a kit for that darker shell for my x1c
I preordered the voxel enclosure and although it shows a printing label has been created it has not shipped yet. They also dropped the price $35 so I'm a little pfft with them. I do love my P1P though.
I was a backer for the X1. Sold it after a few months cause there was issues coming. Now a year later my P1S arrive tomorrow. Im psyched. :) Subbed btw. nice channel.
Issues coming? How's the P1S in comparison? I'm thinking about buying one.
I'd be interested to try an enclosure one of these days. I've been printing almost exclusively ABS for years without an enclosure (rarely HIPS and tried PLA a couple times.) I run my print bed at 120C to adhere the first layer of ABS and hopefully keep it from curling, but about 10% of the time, even that extra heat doesn't hold. Overhangs with ABS are pretty sketchy in my open frame printer no matter what I do. I've just been designing parts around the limitations.
Just why when you can get a cheap enclosure for 50$ and save yourself so much trouble
@@fucknugget5004 Why to which part, and what part is trouble? An enclosure is essentially just substituting different trouble, like dealing with overheating, concentrated vapors, inability to see from as many angles when tuning and troubleshooting. Besides, I built my printer from parts that total well under $200, so a $50 enclosure is like putting a Gucci coat over the windshield of a Kia Rio to keep the frost away in the winter.
During that intro all I could think and see was…
Your tower in the right that’s changing RGB, to me it looks like a background still from any level in Super Mario World. 🤣
Grass levels, water levels, star world, lol.
Awesome printers. I've noticed the quality improvements on fan showdown, but I gotta ask, are you 7' tall?
Nah, he's 6'12
Nope he is actually 213.36 cm
@@zora_tech Actually, he's 17.78 Noctua A12x25's tall.
Great info thanks for sharing I myself am looking into getting a 3d printer this looks like a great option 🤙
I purchased the AnkerMake M5 because it was on sale for $559. Shortly after I began researching the AnkerMake M5, and kept seeing comment after comment stating the Bambu P1P (and P1S) was much better in terms of speed and print quality. I saw a lot of reviews, both good and bad for each of the two.
I finally gave in and ordered the Bambu P1S with AMS as well. I will most likely end up returning one of them, but which one should it be?
What did you end up doing ? I want to buy the p1p
I am new to 3d printing. I am going to buy my first 3d printer for every day use and some mechanical parts for my motorbike. I am between Bambu Lab P1S and Bambu Lab X1-Carbon. Which one is better to start?
Do you get warped parts with the P1S or X1C? If you do, have you figured out how to fix it?
how do they change filaments? I saw a video where it spits out a pile for each change. I want to print with dissolvable support and it doesn't seem that is practical if it purges each change.
Do I need internet to use this printer (p1s) or can I use it with an SD Card? I don’t have internet in my shop yet 🤷♂️
Give us your opinion, is PRUSA in trouble and how long until they come out with a CoreXY type of printer and/or just lover the price of their current MK4?
Anyone else think "Why is Oldsmobile making a 3D printer?" when they saw the logo in the thumbnail?
Any issues printing PLA, what with the enclosure and all? Keep the door open?
Did he mention the print time difference? Wonder if the P1S prints faster because it doesn’t need to do the lidar auto calibration
as far as faster, lidar would let you print faster while retaining quality but it depends. the lidar is for pressure advance, pressure advance does change for each different type of filament/speed and they all flex and melt different when being pushed through. with that said, most people don't see much or any difference on average. i'm sure at higher speeds or with higher variance in filament types you will see a difference.
On the X1C you can turn off the lidar calibration on a per print basis.
which nozzle comes with the printer?
I am really new to 3d printing, is this overall better or worse than the bambu x1 carbon?
It's a lower model so technically worse, by design, as it's being offered for less money. P1S = entry level X1C. That's not to say that it's actually worse, though, as it will print just the same, but has a worse user interface and doesn't come with the hardened steel gears or nozzle (which are cheap and easy upgrades tbh)
@@technicallyreal thank you so much, I'm yet to understand what he says in the video, so, thank you!
What's the link to that Can Caddy you printed?
Does it really matter where you get your filament from? How does the a MS know what color it is?
lol “What?!, Why?!, Open!” That was funny. Great video very informative for me looking to o get my first printer to try to make a business out of.
Do you use PVA for supports ?
I will say I really like this machine and the 3D printing comunity has made some very cool upgrades for these printers. My personal favorite are the silica holders for the AMS and Spools. Their are some holders that go into the back slot and some that can go in the front of the machine that can also hold a humidity/temperature sensor.
I personally would recommend making them out of PETG and using rechargeable silica gel that is food grade safe or cobalt-chloride free. That way when the beads have moisture you can just but the holder with the beads inside the enclosure. Then use the filament dry feature but after it starts set the bed temp to 100 degrees Celsius with the chamber fan on for about an hour or until they are dry. It works pretty well for me and if the cheap humidity sensors work then I have gone form 30% humidity in my AMS to 10%.
You can also print some parts so can also dry the filamnet in the printer but I have never tried this so I am not sure how well that feature works.
I have afew printers. ender 3, mk3s, mk4, cr30, cr10 s5.
All have pros and cons
Been eyeing the p1s for a few weeks now just said F it sometimes it's easier to ask the wife for forgiveness than permission. Order a p1s/ams + hardened parts + parts set for ams and p1 series. I have way more filament than I know what to do with so skipped that.
I have been sitting on a project to build custom dash pods for my car for A-piller for 5.25 component sets. And a Bezel for my open Pi dash (06 scion xb open pi dash using pi4 and dual touchscreens a 5.2in 1080x1080 round display and a 8.8in super wide display commonly used for adia64.
The layout is nearly identical to stock but have the feel of higher end modern cars.
My printers are amazing, but all suck at large ABS / ASA etc higher temp of plastics. Figure p1s plus all the hardened high temp parts with let me consistently print with ASA.
I live in the California desert my car internal temp can climb past 250f with ease I have seen brand new cars on dealer lots with dash cracks
Which 3D printer do you recommend for €400 / $400? I want to print things that are mainly outdoors and come into contact with water. I'm new to 3D printing and want one that's easy to use. The software shouldn't be too complicated either.
The prusa mini plus is great and within that price range. I've never had a problem with it
If you want to do outdoor parts, ASA is hard to beat. Most other filaments suffer from UV exposure issues, or when sitting in the sun (esp. dark colors) they heat up so much that they deform.
ASA prints similar to ABS, so you kind of need an enclosure for that, so factor that into the price. Although a cardboard box would do, that is kind of a fire hazard.
Link to the can caddy?
What affordable printer would you recommend to a complete newbie?
Ender 3 V2, Sovol SV06, Elegoo Neptunes
Elegoo Neptune 3 or 4
Flsun qqs pro or sr
Sovol SV06
From the research I did, the Neptune 3 (4 just came out) may be the best cheap printer. The FLSun can print faster but is usually more expensive and has a smaller build volume.
Print the impeller for the test as from the video card "White Sapphire RX 7900 XTX Nitro+" They have interesting blades.
Let's go!
You can run pva through. They say not to run wet pva through the ams
In the thumbnail it looks like a mini fridge lol
Sold
first! I need more fan showdown in my life
YUP!!!
I like Bambu for the tech they brought to 3D printing that heaps of us were wondering why it wasn't incorporated yet (but lacked the coding ability to bring it to reality) but I hate them for not being open source. I'll keep modding & building my own.
The really irritating thing is that these aren't that complex to code. I could code what is necessary here.
Its just that you need both hardware and coding support and the custom printer communities just continuously blew off how important usability was with sheer elitism and they are _still_ in many places doing that which boggles my mind. Like somehow pain makes you stronger or something, meanwhile you'll see loads of them pretending that Vorons offer the same experience when anyone whj has used klipper for an extended period of time knows that's not true.
To reiterate, klipper completely has all of the connectivity and macro capabilities to make every feature of Bambulab printers (apart from pressure advance tuning) come to life, but they just as a community choose to pretend that it's some impossibilityoor thst people don't need or want the feature or worse, that the very manual alternatives are just as easy.
I've seen all sorts of excuses from (we tried it but we didn't find it reliable enough (to try to dog on these companies for using nozzle probes)) to that reading the raw feedback from input shaping is better for accuracy or some such nonsense.
The reality is that for the last one there should be reasonable auto defaults that you don't need to type in or setuo a macro to use and for the first they just didn't try hard enough, I imagine because creality did it before them and there is strong invented here first syndrome.
Anyways I've ranted a while but basically it's not actually not that far away from being a reality, it just takes people lowering their egos enough to acknowledge the legitimate innovations Bambulab made here.
Yep, everything being proprietary (and the fact that it's Chinese company) is a dealbreaker for me. Also no proof of longevity or continued customer support, ofc that takes time to be proven as Bambu is still new company in 3D-printing world.
@@TheSanpletext Very little of the printer is proprietary. There's no parts-locking, the custom features are all driven by g-code, and the slicer is open source.
I find it funny that most Bambulab printer reviews sound like shills not because they pay off reviewers like creality has been confirmed to do (by Tom Sanlanderer) but because they are actually such a fundamental change in how pain free 3d printing can be.
People talk about the fast speed as if that's all they did but really its all the auto feature they don't even notice because they haven't experienced them yet.
That stuff is responsible for saving soo much time vs printer of old where you'd be checking bed level and tuning for this and that, the it's also fast as heck and that combo has never been done before.
Its actually kind of frustrating that people ignore the real benefits because I like Open source but too many open source loyalists are going the route of toxic positivity where they pretend that Vorons offer the same experience when they simply do not. You simply have to do waaaaay more _stuff_ on a day to day basis to do the same things you do on a Bambulab printer. I get all the positives of open source and repairability too, but I just really wish people didn't try to pretend they were blind to the pain points of Vorons and other fast klipper printers.
Exactly, I want voron speed, prusa quality, and I don’t want to spend 2 months making it work
Is it me or have the couple videos sounded like the audio has been peaking a lot
PLA for the P1P turned P1S and is self enclosed, But the X1C also looks RLY NIFTY. But wait there's more the X1C and P1S can be bundled with the AMS to DSPNS your PLA in CMYK, or PBA if you DRC. But BRB I G2G but CU next time.
I just bought a neptune 3 Pro though, and if I had more money, would have loved a MAX Because of the giant build volume. This also would be cool but too expensive, and the build volume is a bit small considering I need to make some autoparts.
>your PLA in CMYK
I've never thought about this, can you actually do CMYK colour mixing?
This comment went wild places with all those acronyms.
WTF OMG! ATA after ATA, TMA, IMHO
Google translate can't handle that, can you write it in English!
What about K1 max?
They put ads in their app. That alone says a lot to me
Just don't expect decent support if you have problems. Trust me.
ayyyy
How many 3D printers do you have? Every month I see one different. Haha
Customer support is where Bambu fails..
So I heard these printers base the firmware off of Klipper. Is it actually running a variation of Klipper? Because I would imagine the P1S could benefit from Input Shaper since it doesn't have that lidar sensor. It seems like a great value though
Also another thing I heard from the community is that although the Bambu Lab printers are great, they have based a lot of the software off of open source code, but they haven't contributed much to the open source community yet, so I hope that changes because we don't really like proprietary stuff
Hi I have a P1P that I will be upgrading to P1S when they ship out my upgrade kit.
The P1P and P1S do have input shaper, and before a print triggers it will shake the heck out of the Tool head and the bed.
The Gcode Flavor says Marlin not Klipper. That said Klipper is based off of Marlin, and it feels like Bambu's Firmware feels like a similar fork, only hyper specialized to Bambu's Machine. I am working at upgrading my FLSUN SR to Klipper this weekend.
They are not open source with their machine, but they are open source with their slicer Bambu Studio, and the Orca Slicer Fork is showing promise. It's still very much in beta and once they get all the kinks out I will be moving all machines from all the different slicers to Orca exclusively.
I was really reluctant to purchase a Bambu Lab Machine but Microcenter started selling them and I took the plunge as there was a nice return policy if I was unhappy. I am happy I purchased it even though the P1S came out a week later for 100 more and the upgrade kit is $150 and a lot of effort, it's the closest thing to fire and forget that I have, and the quality in the prints is wildly good. Once I get Orca Slicer working properly it will be perfect.
My Ender 3 has been in pieces for 2 weeks now and I am tempted to sell it as is, and never look back.
ooof this comment has a lot of bad info.
The firmware is proprietary not klipper and despite being out a while no one has been able to prove any of the made up rumours that its secretly klipper.
Secondly, all of them have automatically calibrated resonance compensation (input shaping).
Bambu Lab PIS(s)
Its 599 right now.
MH: "the X1 was on every channelanel", the P1S even more. Nothing new under the sun, just a enclosed P1P and some other small, already available, stuff, no fuss
If you are looking at a ready to run machines, I agree, however, the Voron 2.4/trident/vzbot/hevort walk over the bambus all day (don't come to me with the ams because the Voron has the ERCF)
When factoring in reliability issues, the 2.4 is pretty categorically worse than the Bambu. Our lab runs both in pretty reasonable volumes, although we have significantly more Vorons than Bambu printers.
Bambu's printers are mostly held back by max plastic flow rate. If you're printing large things, you can *technically* run the 2.4 faster and still get good print quality (with less acceleration) but in my experience running 2.4's anywhere near aggressively has a tendency to damage the wiring.
And by "has a tendency" I mean about 1/2 of our printers are down at any given time being re-wired.
@@louisvaught2495remember that the PIF program exists, so I think that you are having something that is wearing your wires down prematurely
@@louisvaught2495adding to the PIF program, the 2.4 runs exclusively in linear rails that will easily outlast the bearings on the X1, I've seen 2.4s with 12k hours on them and pretty much no issues. I would suggest also getting the can bus boards, less wires to break
@@Lucas_sGarage The series of cable chains on the 2.4 require routing the specified gauge of wires smaller than their minimum bend radius, and it results in the printers self-destructing if you run them fast.
There's guidance on using slicone/ptfe/"high quality" wires to avoid damage, but that by itself should raise some red flags that maybe there's something wrong with the design.
@@louisvaught2495again, that's why the canbus boards exist, you get 4 wires for signal and 2 for power (ignoring stuff like the ribbon cable mod and other stuff
If only those Bambu printers didn't force that cloud-rubbish on you for stuff that could all perfectly work within a LAN or using my own VPN ... That's my main problem with them ... Call me old-fashioned, but I also don't want a car which I can only sell if the manufacturer approves, nor a doorbell or thermostat that phones home (not my home). Maybe the EU should create a new law: the requirement for any hardware device to work as well without as with Internet connection. Basically then forcing manufacturers to offer the user a way to provide his own "server-side" for the device rather than having to use the cloud one from the manufacturer.
"If only those Bambu printers didn't force that cloud-rubbish on you for stuff that could all perfectly work within a LAN or using my own VPN"
It's been a year dude. None of that you said is accurate. WTH are you talking about you can resell a BL printer.
You can print 3 ways.
*Cloud* with all features intact.
*Lan only* , lose cloud functions like remote monitoring through bambu but there are ways around it. And you can VPN into a computer on the local network and retain certain functionality.
*SD card only* . Sneakernet, welcome to 2015 3d printing.
So I just gave you the solution you claim isnt there. Go lan only. Printer drops cloud functions. VPN into a local machine and you can pause, stop and start prints. If you have an X1C you can even activate the camera with a tweak so it works over LAN with WMP or OBS. Or buy a separate camera that you run.
It's funny the people who claim some technical superiority and go "old fashion" lose all IQ points when it comes to kludging together a solution which has been 3d printing up to this point. If you have problem and you don't want the manufacture solution create your own.
@@No0o0o0o0o0 So, you can update your Bambu without cloud? Or start using it without registering with Bambu?
@@MisterkeTube You don't have to update anything. so why would you update if you don't want cloud functions at all. If the printer is running why do you need an update? what does the supposed update get you if you are running offline.
There are plenty of printers with ZERO updates for their entire life cycle. besides if you download bin file and flash it do you know what was on that file? If you have that level of expertise you could be writing your own firmware.
Treat it like a cell phone.
*Android* create a gmail account and remove it once it's on.
*Apple* create an icloud account and remove it once the device is running.
*Windows 11* . Create a windows account and remove it later.
Besides you can fill it with gibberish for first registration and never touch it again. after you remove it. If you are going offline from that point on then does it even matter?
Think critically. If you ordered a printer from Bambulab, prusa, creality directly you already created an account.
If you bought the printer offline then it's registered with whatever you provide. You dont have to register the printer with anything you didnt give and its trivial to remove the account. 3 button presses.
@@No0o0o0o0o0 WHOSH The point they were making went straight over your head. Think critically, you say.🤔
@@madb132 And who are you? You speak for OP now? Since you didnt make a point your comment is dismissed. 👋👋buh bye.
That cut at 5:20 was pretty good
I rather enjoyed it as well.
I really don't like the propriety nature, but I'd deal with it if it weren't also crippled by lack of internet connection. Things like the camera do not work if you use them locally which is a dealbreaker for me. My friend also has an X1C and has at least once been unable to print because the servers were down
Camera works locally. Just not through the app, which would have to go through a host server. You also can print from the SD card like any other printer.
I hear this diss on Bambu a lot but it hasn’t been true in my experience. The LAN mode works great and I’ve never had the printer be “unusable” due to a server going down.
Both LAN mode and a simple microSD card get past the cloud restrictions.
Unable to print is total BS, just use the SD card.
Just to add to the thread, you CAN use the camera in Lan only mode with a small tweak.
and the obligatory " the printer works fine in lan only or SD only modes"
Your "friend" can just use SD or go lan only. It's only a few button presses on the touch screen.
"P1S" kind of sounds like "penis"
Yeah. Now if they would send a single printer to more channels.....
You amungst many others have several.
Honestly; Bambu is buying their hype. I'm about to swear it off out of spite.
YO First!!!
awesome videos!
Please be careful if you connect electronics devices to the cloud or internet. Someone just got in trouble with a Bambu printer and making things they shouldn't :)
Link?
Freedom! Unless it's Nintendo then you will be sued.
Can you elaborate
We are all looking for additional details on this?
Also if you think Bambu is of concern depending on where you live, your local police force may have something far scarier... Google "police using stingray" much sketchier than anything Bambu is using.
He clearly printed gun parts
Oh great, another Bambu Lab printer review.... enough!
Get a Resin printer, FDM is still too slow.
The only one who can make relevant solid reviews that cover most aspects and filaments is a 14 year old little girl, that you other tired lethargic money hungry influences are not ashamed is a mystery!
Bamboolab is such a good company except they aren’t open source which just is wrong for 3d printing
"Have ran" -- wrong
"Have run" -- correct
1st BABY
A few of you need to fight to the death, but by the time stamp it is you who wins.
Prusa fanboys kracking theit knuckles to type some dogshit cope
I won't go for them just because it's closed source and does not work on Linux.
i just received my PS1 Combo. After seven hours of messing with it, I am sending it back. Chinese garbage. Poor documentation. Good luck to anyone elser buying this crap