9 Times out of 10. Thank You, Thank you! My Dad's John Deere 19hp Intek had the same problem. He is an excellent Mechanic for 60 years, but now has Parkinson's and a Mild Stroke. We had already rebuilt the transmission for another problem, then a new Battery, New Solenoid, Changed Starter and still would not run. Ready to take it to another mechanic. Then found your video. 9 times out of 10 . . . You were absolutely right!! Our intake valve was so loose, the rocker arm had fallen off and the valve had bent. Was able to repair, put it back together and adjust the valves. Runs perfect. Thank you so much for your video. You are awesome. Rusty Williams
This is my usual experience DIY fixing things. I'm always learning and saving a ton of money doing it myself. However there is always dropping things you can't find, choice words here and there, a little frustration. Great video. I'll be doing this tonight and hope thats all it is for my tractor.
Thank you so much for showing and explaining everything so well! Saved us from purchasing a new mower and we had just bought one a year and a half ago! Someone tried charging us $89 to fix our house mower but by following your video, it only cost us $13 for the feeler and oil. THANK YOU!
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Hi Jeff, can I ask you if it is possible to find the wire diagram as I bought a yard mower with a Brigg & Stratton but I found 2 wires that I don’t know where they need to be connected and what is their job? I can send you a picture. Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks, Serge
The video is very helpful. I have been adjusting my valves wrong... I would adjust the intake valve while the exhaust valve was compressed and the exhaust valve while the intake was compressed. Followed your way step by step and it fired right up. Thanks bro.
Thank you, I"am currently changing my exhaust valve, and a push rod, because my engine only had a quarter turn,I suspected a valve,so after getting some horrendous quotes,I decided to have a go myself, buying all new parts to morrow for my B&Stratton 15.5 and this Video helped a lot, I will watch the valve settings again when I ready to finish off the job, Considering I am a semi retired Bodt Therapist ,I haven't done too badly, Thanks for the Video.
Last year when Hurricane Irma came through, we lost electricity for almost two weeks. Our (previously barely ever used) generator began to start rough, and I was told to check that the valve/bolts were tight and moving in and out with ease. That was my extent of schooling on the situation. The generator did still start, but only ran at a max of half of the power it had previously. We had no electric, no cell signal, so no help from the internet. However, in a stroke of luck, our electric was restored that evening. At that time, the generator became a project for another day, and we began cleanup and getting life back to normal. Next month is the start of hurricane season, and my generator has been put to the side (oh no). I've watched several YT videos on the valves, and most of them leave something out. *THIS video, is the best that I have seen so far, and I really don't see the need to watch any others.* (Unless I do have a different problem). Thanks for doing this and sharing it with the rest of us.
Hey Jeff, Great Video! I just wanted to add a little info about the valves here. On these Briggs and Strattons, the Intake Valve is “bumped” by an additional lobe on the camshaft, just before detonation, it allows excess compression to bleed off for a split second. This takes the strain off the starter. It does not have an effect on the exhaust valve, only the intake. If the intake rocker is to loose (over .005”), this “bump” in the camshaft WILL NOT open the intake valve and help relieve the compression for the starter to get “over the hump”. Of course, if the intake rocker/valve is to tight, it will not completely close, and then the compression will not build and the engine will not start. Different problem, just thought I’d mention that. When adjusting this intake specification, it’s always a good idea to adjust the exhaust at the same time. I just wanted to clarify what causes this issue, and let your subscribers know why it’s not a good idea to “over adjust” or “over tighten” the rocker. There is a reason that the specs have a “range”. Again, great video!
Thank you very much, sir, for your video. After many unlucky adjustments, I watched your video and finally was able to start the engine. So far it works ok. Thanks one more time.
Thank you so much for this video as it gave me the knowledge to fix my tractor. I also found that the push rod was bent on the bottom valve. I was able to straighten it. The tractor is running again better then it has in years.
I know this is 2021 and I’m way BEHIND on seeing your video. But I want to thank you for your videos. I am a 76-year-old female that fixes things myself using good videos on TH-cam. I am so grateful for them. Now having said all that, I would like to say this: thank you so much for showing and describing the TOOLS that you are going to use for every job that you do! My eyesight is very poor within 10 inches of my face. I have great difficulty in finding the right socket because I can’t remember the size on them. Trial and error placing sockets on the bolt until I find the right one! But by you telling what size tool you’re using and what it’s for so forth and so on, I have been able to do more for myself than I thought I ever could. And at $ 80 to 95 or $100 an hour for a lawn more technician in my area, your videos save me a lot of money. Because I run to the store and say I need something to fix this and they sell me another tool. Invariably it is the wrong size!!!!! I know people are saying, “ oh what a stupid Old woman, but they are not in my shoes”! I can see your picture at a distance because I can ENLARGE IT and hold it at a distance to see…… can’t do that with a magnifying glass! :) I simply don’t know what size socket a bolt takes I have to guess! Therefore by your saying it in the video I’m have a much easier time finding the right socket the first time. Because I keep them lined up in order. I just don’t know which one goes on which bolt! And poor eyes are due to optic nerve damage. So I just want to say thank you again for describing the tool and telling the size before you start the job. I have to use my thumb and forefinger and sometimes hand to guide the screwdriver into the slotted head or the bit into the drill or the right socket onto the bolt, etc., but due to the grace of God, I can do it! Thank you so very much!
Great comment thank you! It sounds like you are capable of doing anything you set your mind to and I beleive it.. I have used TH-cam many times to help me learn how to fix stuff.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Thank you so much for replying to my post. I have been able to do anything I’ve set my mind to all my life and I didn’t want to stop at this age. So thanks again and you have a blessed day! :)
I watched 3 other videos on this procedure and each one the person doing it determined the intake valve was on top,but when i saw you using a ratchet for a hammer everything became clear
This defused the ticking time bomb in my motor the exhaust was over .020.. I still suspect a blown head gasket it's burning oil and fouling plugs. This is best video for find the correct TDC..
I know you are doing it like the manual says but I never took my spark plug out. I just opened one valve and adjusted the other one, worked great and this was the first time for me. If your engine does not crank because they are so far out like mine was I think what I did will be fine. Believe me I thank you for this video. I'm letting the commercials run this time and I'll let them run a few more times. 😊
This is the only source of information I've found that this could be the problem and not a busted up cam. My ride on mower is made in 1999 and was previously owned by someone who had it sitting outside most of it's life. This was a much easier fix then for me to remove the engine and find out my cams valve release is still just fine. Not only it starts and runs just fine but it now has a lot more power. This thing moves really easily now compared to before. Before it could sometimes stall cutting grass, but now it moves super fast, maybe a bit too fast. My theory is that over time the rockers get lose and causes the valves to close early and stay closed longer for the intake and exhaust strokes. Hence the high compression just to get it started. Also the lack of power from before adjusting.
Great video before i adjusted the valves i was using two car batterys to start the thing no shortage of compression its what briggs use to call easy spin starting
Awesome video! i Love watching your videos! Thank You Soooo Very Much for making this video. it REALY helped me adjust the valves on my B&S 15.5 ohv engine after i replace both the head and valve gaskets. :) :)
Thanks , I work on small engines and have never had to use your method yet - but I have saved your video - but I'm sure one day I'll have to review your video to preform this process. Thanks in advance for your very informative video !!!!!
Another way for securing the STEEL bolts into Aluminum threads, is to put a "small dab" of ANTI-CEASE on the threads, so there is no corosion, or sticking! I love using my ANTI-CEASE so it's easier for the next time for Regularly Scheduled Maintenance! Sadly, there arn't too many people that actually "take care" of their equipment... :-( That's where us Small Engine Mechanics come in! Nicely done Informative Video! Have a GOOD one!, :-) -Thomas Port Orchard, Washington
I am not very mechanical. thought it was my carborator, plug or ignition coil (which I tried) till I saw your video to explain why my mower was running rough. When I opened it up and saw a 1/2" gap on the exhaust, lol, I knew where the problem lie. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! I had to replace the gaskets and then it wouldn't start. I figured it was the valves but as I had never adjusted them I didn't know how. Performed the adjustment per your instructions and the thing fired right up! Many thanks!
Thanks Jeff, needed these measurements and this was exactly what I needed for tdc etc... good vid! I like the “calibrated wrist” bit haha, I might have to calibrate mine also as I don’t have a torque wrench ;)
I would recommend it. Recently on my engine the intake stud unscrewed out of the head while the engine was running and the rocker arm came off. It had no thread locker on it but the exhaust stud did. They both should have thread locker on them so they don't come out.
There are a ton of videos getting the Exhaust and intake backwards.They say the aluminum push rod is a easy way to tell.Intake looks to be bottom like in this video.Is it necessary to do this top dead center?I am seeing videos where they adjust with one closed and one open.Very confusing.
If you want to avoid your engine from running hot, which is detrimental for the valves and adjustment, keep your air filter clean and blow the debris out of the shroud and the fins. A good seasonal engine pressure clean will help, also if you have problems with the valves going out of adjustment often put some thread lock on the studs so they don't walk. A dirty air filter and debris build-up around the head and shroud will make the engine run lean and hot. Remember the engine is air cooled.
@@JeffsLittleEngineServiceand no need to take out spark plug ajust valve one open on closed ajust the closed valve then rotate engine till the other valve closes and ajust the your done
Bummer, I don't have a brain. Looks like my mower is going to the shop instead. I hate it when I don't have the proper tools. Great video, I actually learned a lot. Lol
Have you ever seen one of these briggs motors with the intake valve on top? There are no numbers on my valve cover for me to see what series the motor is specifically (just know it is a 17.5hp in a Scotts S1742). Every video I have watched has the intake valve on the bottom with the aluminum push rod on the bottom, but mine has the aluminum rod on top which has caused me to believe that the top has to be the intake valve. But now I am wondering if someone worked on this motor previously and mixed up the push rods
After checking my flywheel key and finding it was intact, I was worried the valve gear jumped a cog. (Totally unlikely!!) I watched this video and thought I'd see what lays under the valve cover. I took off the valve cover and found the exhaust valve cap sitting on the bottom of the valve chamber. Somehow the exhaust rocker arm bolt had started to unscrew itself. Without the valve cap at the end of the valve, and the massive amount of slack between the rocker arm and valve, no wonder I was getting kickback and backfire! I tightened everything up like Jeff shows ... Runs like normal now! Thanks Jeff! Without your video, I would have disposed of my 44" mower! Now I'm more confident about fixin' small engines. Subscribed! Best Regards!
Thanks for the great info; I was helping a friend fix their 17.0 hp Briggs and didn't understand why it would turn over easily without the spark plug in but wouldn't turn over with the spark plug in. I adjusted the rockers the way you described, and the motor started up right away. Thanks so much.
Had the same problem with mine starting, 17.5 Briggs tried new battery and starter, no change, then found out that the decompressor was broke on the camshaft, apparently a common problem with these engines. Got new camshaft and gasket set, disassembled the engine, cleaned out all the metal shavings and replaced the camshaft, reassembled and everything is good.
Thank you. I have watched a dozen other videos on setting the valves and none explained there are two tdc's and how to find the correct one. Also seeing that stud move on you may also be a problem I am having because one keeps loosening.
Thank you Jeff, going to try this on my 17.5. Yeah, Micheal Douglas.... and you know he did the voice for NBC. Recorded voice-over introducing the “NBC Nightly News with Brian Williams.” So ya got that also going for You!
on the hose from the carb to the crank case is there a plastic piece to restrict gas flow? I thought I saw on and when i install a new carb I could'nt find it engine ran for 5 minutes then smoked and stopped what caused this?
You are correct, the spec. Is 1/4 of an inch past TDC. 60 inch pounds is 5 foot pounds (60divided by 12). .004 and.006 is the typical valve lash for these engines. At least you do not have oil going all over the place, as you had when adjusting the valves on a solid lifter 327 Chevy. That valve lash was burned into my head, .012 and .018.
I've got the 18 hp OHV Intek and I'm sure the valves need adjusting. ITs hard to turn over and after 20 or so minutes of using the mower, the engine just doesnt want to run anymore. I attempted to adjust the valves once before, but apparently I did it wrong, because they seemed to not need adjusting. I'll go recheck them though. I've got a video up on my channel of when I attempted it, and if you could let me know what I may have done wrong that would be great!
these engines are noted for the rocker studs backing out causing valves to come out of adjustment use lock tight on the threads and retighten also if the compression release on the cam breaks it will be hard to start
I think it would have been a good idea to remove the rocker and support stud to put some thread locker on the stud threads, I have a feeling the factory puts something on the threads to hold them.
You are correct. Recently my engine started making a tapping noise that quickly grew louder until the engine died. When I took the rocker cover off the intake valve rocker arm was loose and it had rotated 90 degrees. What had happened was that the intake rocker arm support stud had unscrewed out of the head and it was almost all the way out. The stud had been installed with no thread locker on it. To be sure I took the exhaust stud out just to check it and it already had thread locker on it. Apparently someone had forgotten to put thread locker on the intake stud and only did the exhaust stud, which is why the intake stud unscrewed out of the head.
Thanks for the very detailed instructions and sharing your valuable knowledge. I've watched 20+ videos while trying to fix my grandpas old 17hp B&S I/C ohv and I still can't get the dang thing to turn over...It had a blown head gasket, of which the gaskets look designed to fail as they are missing a bolt in a critical location in my opinion...Anyways, after cleaning the carbon, setting the gasket, and adjusting the valves (intake to 0.003" and exhaust to 0.005") I get a chirping sound as I try to turn it over...It almost sounds like airs whistling out of the air filter / carb area in short bursts. With a fear that I set the valves on the wrong stroke, I double checked and I set the valves again with the piston 1/4" deep past TDC, pulled the filter off to better inspect, tried to turn it over again...and same chirping sound. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone locally that has the knowledge to help me, and my grandpas rolling in his grave watching me struggle. Would love to hear your thoughts before he starts haunting me. Cheers!
@furnace3 it turns out I had reblown the head gasket almost as soon as I had replaced it (didnt torque the head bolts properly..) . And so I didn't check it until I fixed and rebuilt everything else...shame on me...
Ok I did this exactly... And my motor is still not turning over, crank literally feels stuck, any other idea??? Help really need to build a race mower!!
I have an issue with the same lawnmower it seems like it’s good compression but it seems to not really want to start. It will start on occasion but most of the time you’ll just sit there and crank it. It has spark and fuel. I’m wondering if it’s also valves but it spins over just fine and the spark plug also gets full of gas every time I take it off
Many thanks for the video. Can I ask a supplementary (or two)? My B&S engine of this type has started to get hard to start (battery etc. fine) BUT at the same time it has started to burn oil when put under load - engaging blades, for instance. Could that just be down to valve clearances and if not, might it be the valve stem oil seals, cylinder head gasket or worn cylinders/piston rings? A gasket I could tackle, valve stem seals as long as no special tools are needed, but if it's pistons maybe I'll just run it until it gives up!
probably not a valve clearance issue...It sounds like either the engine is getting tired (worn rings etc) or possibly the beginning of a failing head gasket
Cheers, Jeff. It was a question more in hope than expectation. I'll have a crack at the head gasket and check for bore wear at the same time. A wee donation on its way as thanks for your help.
You don't need to get the engine to TDC. That is only required for timing. Just spin the flywheel tell one of the lifters are down the opposite one will be loose, adjust that one then rotate tell the next lifter is down then adjust the next. Yes, TDC allows for both lifters to be loose but by the time you find it you could be done with the job.
Mine wont start and I have new battery and carburetor cleaned.... Also new spark plug I don't know why it was run before but smoked after warm up... Can some one help please?
Brother Jeffry I actually laughed out loud with the turning of the second stud. If you think you can over torque a stud reaching in over the valve spring, well think again. People normally remove the valve spring and rocker to tighten the stud but don't pay any attention to me. I am just old.
What happens if one has zero gap? I cannot adjust my exhuast valve. It has zero gap. When I try to adjust it to a gap, then it is so lose that the push rod falls out. And I mean if I even turn the screw a hair. then it is gaped so much that the push rod falls out
9 Times out of 10. Thank You, Thank you! My Dad's John Deere 19hp Intek had the same problem. He is an excellent Mechanic for 60 years, but now has Parkinson's and a Mild Stroke. We had already rebuilt the transmission for another problem, then a new Battery, New Solenoid, Changed Starter and still would not run. Ready to take it to another mechanic. Then found your video. 9 times out of 10 . . . You were absolutely right!! Our intake valve was so loose, the rocker arm had fallen off and the valve had bent. Was able to repair, put it back together and adjust the valves. Runs perfect. Thank you so much for your video. You are awesome. Rusty Williams
That's the cleanest mower I've seen being worked on.
This is my usual experience DIY fixing things. I'm always learning and saving a ton of money doing it myself. However there is always dropping things you can't find, choice words here and there, a little frustration. Great video. I'll be doing this tonight and hope thats all it is for my tractor.
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We like the way you lay out your tools before the job begins-- that certainly beats "discovery" of a missing tool as the work proceeds.
Thank you so much for showing and explaining everything so well! Saved us from purchasing a new mower and we had just bought one a year and a half ago! Someone tried charging us $89 to fix our house mower but by following your video, it only cost us $13 for the feeler and oil. THANK YOU!
Thanks! good job
@@JeffsLittleEngineService
Hi Jeff, can I ask you if it is possible to find the wire diagram as I bought a yard mower with a Brigg & Stratton but I found 2 wires that I don’t know where they need to be connected and what is their job? I can send you a picture. Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks, Serge
The video is very helpful. I have been adjusting my valves wrong... I would adjust the intake valve while the exhaust valve was compressed and the exhaust valve while the intake was compressed. Followed your way step by step and it fired right up. Thanks bro.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you, I"am currently changing my exhaust valve, and a push rod, because my engine only had a quarter turn,I suspected a valve,so after getting some horrendous quotes,I decided to have a go myself, buying all new parts to morrow for my B&Stratton 15.5 and this Video helped a lot, I will watch the valve settings again when I ready to finish off the job, Considering I am a semi retired Bodt Therapist ,I haven't done too badly, Thanks for the Video.
Can someone please tell me what a 15.5 hp briggs valves set on?
Thank you so much. I was going insane trying to figure out tdc, thought I had it and I didn't. Got my mower running again thanks to you.
The best valve ajustment tutorial I've seen, thanks you.
I liked it when you dropped the torx bit, then the wrench! So much fun working in the mud at 40°.
Last year when Hurricane Irma came through, we lost electricity for almost two weeks. Our (previously barely ever used) generator began to start rough, and I was told to check that the valve/bolts were tight and moving in and out with ease. That was my extent of schooling on the situation. The generator did still start, but only ran at a max of half of the power it had previously. We had no electric, no cell signal, so no help from the internet. However, in a stroke of luck, our electric was restored that evening. At that time, the generator became a project for another day, and we began cleanup and getting life back to normal. Next month is the start of hurricane season, and my generator has been put to the side (oh no). I've watched several YT videos on the valves, and most of them leave something out. *THIS video, is the best that I have seen so far, and I really don't see the need to watch any others.* (Unless I do have a different problem). Thanks for doing this and sharing it with the rest of us.
What's is that in the background
Good job Jeffro! I always come back to this one when adjusting the valves on the old B&S ohv's. Thanks!
Glad to help, thanks for watching and for the comment
Hey Jeff, Great Video! I just wanted to add a little info about the valves here. On these Briggs and Strattons, the Intake Valve is “bumped” by an additional lobe on the camshaft, just before detonation, it allows excess compression to bleed off for a split second. This takes the strain off the starter. It does not have an effect on the exhaust valve, only the intake. If the intake rocker is to loose (over .005”), this “bump” in the camshaft WILL NOT open the intake valve and help relieve the compression for the starter to get “over the hump”. Of course, if the intake rocker/valve is to tight, it will not completely close, and then the compression will not build and the engine will not start. Different problem, just thought I’d mention that. When adjusting this intake specification, it’s always a good idea to adjust the exhaust at the same time. I just wanted to clarify what causes this issue, and let your subscribers know why it’s not a good idea to “over adjust” or “over tighten” the rocker. There is a reason that the specs have a “range”. Again, great video!
excellent explanation and good tips for a common problem
What would you adjust the intake at and the exhaust at. And you would adjust both valves at the same time by with the Piston at the top ? Right?
Thanks, I found what I was looking for. i had the same problem with the same machine. I will try, greetings from Bali.
Best video ever im tackling mine tommorrow very step.by step i love it thanks so much.
Thank you very much, sir, for your video. After many unlucky adjustments, I watched your video and finally was able to start the engine. So far it works ok. Thanks one more time.
Glad it helped
Great video, love the little guy in the background
Thanks for watching
Dude, your the man and just saved me purchasing a new mower. Thank you!!!!
I just wanted to thank you, you helped me get my mower running again after replacing the head gasket on a 19HP B&S!!!
thanks for taking me in all this process, best valves regulation video ive seen
Thank you so much for this video as it gave me the knowledge to fix my tractor. I also found that the push rod was bent on the bottom valve. I was able to straighten it. The tractor is running again better then it has in years.
I know this is 2021 and I’m way BEHIND on seeing your video. But I want to thank you for your videos. I am a 76-year-old female that fixes things myself using good videos on TH-cam. I am so grateful for them. Now having said all that, I would like to say this: thank you so much for showing and describing the TOOLS that you are going to use for every job that you do! My eyesight is very poor within 10 inches of my face. I have great difficulty in finding the right socket because I can’t remember the size on them. Trial and error placing sockets on the bolt until I find the right one! But by you telling what size tool you’re using and what it’s for so forth and so on, I have been able to do more for myself than I thought I ever could. And at $ 80 to 95 or $100 an hour for a lawn more technician in my area, your videos save me a lot of money. Because I run to the store and say I need something to fix this and they sell me another tool. Invariably it is the wrong size!!!!! I know people are saying, “ oh what a stupid Old woman, but they are not in my shoes”! I can see your picture at a distance because I can ENLARGE IT and hold it at a distance to see…… can’t do that with a magnifying glass! :) I simply don’t know what size socket a bolt takes I have to guess! Therefore by your saying it in the video I’m have a much easier time finding the right socket the first time. Because I keep them lined up in order. I just don’t know which one goes on which bolt! And poor eyes are due to optic nerve damage. So I just want to say thank you again for describing the tool and telling the size before you start the job. I have to use my thumb and forefinger and sometimes hand to guide the screwdriver into the slotted head or the bit into the drill or the right socket onto the bolt, etc., but due to the grace of God, I can do it! Thank you so very much!
Great comment thank you! It sounds like you are capable of doing anything you set your mind to and I beleive it.. I have used TH-cam many times to help me learn how to fix stuff.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Thank you so much for replying to my post. I have been able to do anything I’ve set my mind to all my life and I didn’t want to stop at this age. So thanks again and you have a blessed day! :)
I watched 3 other videos on this procedure and each one the person doing it determined the intake valve was on top,but when i saw you using a ratchet for a hammer everything became clear
lol
Thanks a million Jeff, you probably saved me a few bucks with your great tutorial....worked like a charm!!!
This was the most useful and helpful video I’ve ever used! Thank you for posting!
This defused the ticking time bomb in my motor the exhaust was over .020.. I still suspect a blown head gasket it's burning oil and fouling plugs. This is best video for find the correct TDC..
Watched this video so much about 17 times for my lawn tractor thanks for the video!!! it really helped me a lot!
I know you are doing it like the manual says but I never took my spark plug out. I just opened one valve and adjusted the other one, worked great and this was the first time for me. If your engine does not crank because they are so far out like mine was I think what I did will be fine.
Believe me I thank you for this video. I'm letting the commercials run this time and I'll let them run a few more times. 😊
Thanks friend!
The old calibrated wrist trick. I need to do this on a Poulan Pro rider this week. Thanks for the precision video. 😁
This is the only source of information I've found that this could be the problem and not a busted up cam. My ride on mower is made in 1999 and was previously owned by someone who had it sitting outside most of it's life. This was a much easier fix then for me to remove the engine and find out my cams valve release is still just fine. Not only it starts and runs just fine but it now has a lot more power. This thing moves really easily now compared to before. Before it could sometimes stall cutting grass, but now it moves super fast, maybe a bit too fast. My theory is that over time the rockers get lose and causes the valves to close early and stay closed longer for the intake and exhaust strokes. Hence the high compression just to get it started. Also the lack of power from before adjusting.
Great video before i adjusted the valves i was using two car batterys to start the thing no shortage of compression its what briggs use to call easy spin starting
Awesome video! i Love watching your videos! Thank You Soooo Very Much for making this video. it REALY helped me adjust the valves on my B&S 15.5 ohv engine after i replace both the head and valve gaskets. :) :)
Thanks for watching friend!
Thanks , I work on small engines and have never had to use your method yet - but I have saved your video - but I'm sure one day I'll have to review your video to preform this process. Thanks in advance for your very informative video !!!!!
Another way for securing the STEEL bolts into Aluminum threads, is to put a "small dab" of ANTI-CEASE on the threads, so there is no corosion, or sticking!
I love using my ANTI-CEASE so it's easier for the next time for Regularly Scheduled Maintenance!
Sadly, there arn't too many people that actually "take care" of their equipment... :-( That's where us Small Engine Mechanics come in!
Nicely done Informative Video!
Have a GOOD one!, :-)
-Thomas
Port Orchard, Washington
Great tip!
Anti-seize and corrosion.
i fixed my lawnmower thank you i did the same thing you did and it worked///////YES.
I have the same engine. Adjusted my valves today. I went with .004 as the gap
Simple and Easy to follow directions !
I am not very mechanical. thought it was my carborator, plug or ignition coil (which I tried) till I saw your video to explain why my mower was running rough. When I opened it up and saw a 1/2" gap on the exhaust, lol, I knew where the problem lie. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! I had to replace the gaskets and then it wouldn't start. I figured it was the valves but as I had never adjusted them I didn't know how. Performed the adjustment per your instructions and the thing fired right up! Many thanks!
Hey Jeff great video!!! Thanks! I learned something today! I am having the exact same problem!
I recently had to replace my head gasket on my yt3000 mower. I set the intake to .004 and the exhaust to .008. Sounds better than it did before.
I also have the problem with the valves: Regarding the setting: E+A, which setting please? Thanks for the answers.
Thanks Jeff, needed these measurements and this was exactly what I needed for tdc etc... good vid! I like the “calibrated wrist” bit haha, I might have to calibrate mine also as I don’t have a torque wrench ;)
Great video. I love that you didnt cut out the drop scenes. Happens to me every time. Haha
for sure!
Thank you I learned alot I really appreciate your time and experience. 🇺🇸✌️🙏
Good job . All the correct tools and a brain , good thing you have common sense also goes a long way .thanks
would loctite on the studs be worth doing or would it get too hot?
Red loctite might be a good idea
@@JeffsLittleEngineService thanks! Next time I am in the there I'll probably do just that
I would recommend it. Recently on my engine the intake stud unscrewed out of the head while the engine was running and the rocker arm came off. It had no thread locker on it but the exhaust stud did. They both should have thread locker on them so they don't come out.
I put soooooo many hours on this exact engine.... did valve adjust so many times i was at the end of adjustment lol tough lil motors
My Intek is knocking at hot idle.
@@Hubjeep qtr+t3¼½+½qtr a1+qed+q a
ADC
Did ya get it to work?
There are a ton of videos getting the Exhaust and intake backwards.They say the aluminum push rod is a easy way to tell.Intake looks to be bottom like in this video.Is it necessary to do this top dead center?I am seeing videos where they adjust with one closed and one open.Very confusing.
thanks for this video! I had an issue with my mower and thought I blew it up, but the exhaust valve rocker needed tightened up.
If you want to avoid your engine from running hot, which is detrimental for the valves and adjustment, keep your air filter clean and blow the debris out of the shroud and the fins. A good seasonal engine pressure clean will help, also if you have problems with the valves going out of adjustment often put some thread lock on the studs so they don't walk.
A dirty air filter and debris build-up around the head and shroud will make the engine run lean and hot.
Remember the engine is air cooled.
good tips
Air cleaner has nothing to do with valves it's to keep air going into the carb clean the valves need adjusted so the decompressing valve works lol😂
@@JeffsLittleEngineServiceand no need to take out spark plug ajust valve one open on closed ajust the closed valve then rotate engine till the other valve closes and ajust the your done
Very cool video.Like the spring thing at the background a lot!.
Thanks 👍for watching my friends and I made that little spring guy one late night...
Bummer, I don't have a brain. Looks like my mower is going to the shop instead. I hate it when I don't have the proper tools. Great video, I actually learned a lot. Lol
Have you ever seen one of these briggs motors with the intake valve on top? There are no numbers on my valve cover for me to see what series the motor is specifically (just know it is a 17.5hp in a Scotts S1742). Every video I have watched has the intake valve on the bottom with the aluminum push rod on the bottom, but mine has the aluminum rod on top which has caused me to believe that the top has to be the intake valve. But now I am wondering if someone worked on this motor previously and mixed up the push rods
As far as I know they are all the same.
After checking my flywheel key and finding it was intact, I was worried the valve gear jumped a cog. (Totally unlikely!!) I watched this video and thought I'd see what lays under the valve cover.
I took off the valve cover and found the exhaust valve cap sitting on the bottom of the valve chamber. Somehow the exhaust rocker arm bolt had started to unscrew itself. Without the valve cap at the end of the valve, and the massive amount of slack between the rocker arm and valve, no wonder I was getting kickback and backfire!
I tightened everything up like Jeff shows ... Runs like normal now!
Thanks Jeff! Without your video, I would have disposed of my 44" mower!
Now I'm more confident about fixin' small engines.
Subscribed!
Best Regards!
Bravo Mark isn't it great what a huge $$$ savings a little mech troubleshooting can accomplish ?!
Thanks for the great info; I was helping a friend fix their 17.0 hp Briggs and didn't understand why it would turn over easily without the spark plug in but wouldn't turn over with the spark plug in.
I adjusted the rockers the way you described, and the motor started up right away.
Thanks so much.
Had the same problem with mine starting, 17.5 Briggs tried new battery and starter, no change, then found out that the decompressor was broke on the camshaft, apparently a common problem with these engines. Got new camshaft and gasket set, disassembled the engine, cleaned out all the metal shavings and replaced the camshaft, reassembled and everything is good.
good job
Great video though much better walkthrough than a few others with the studs coming loose is a big help cuz thats something id do and panic
Would the engine have turned over fast before the valve adjustment if you took the spark plug out? I very anxiously await a answer.
yes with the spark plug removed (no compression) the engine should turn over easily
Thank you. I have watched a dozen other videos on setting the valves and none explained there are two tdc's and how to find the correct one. Also seeing that stud move on you may also be a problem I am having because one keeps loosening.
Knowledge and experience !!!!
Love the springy thingy, that's awesome!
I thought it was a snake LMAO!
@@timssmallenginerepair1467 haha
Thank you Jeff, going to try this on my 17.5. Yeah, Micheal Douglas.... and you know he did the voice for NBC. Recorded voice-over introducing the “NBC Nightly News with Brian Williams.” So ya got that also going for You!
And this guy even tells the truth! Great vid. Worked for my Briggs 17.5.
i had the same issue, and this video solved my problem. thank you!
It doesn't hurt to rotate your engine again and recheck your valve clearances after you adjust them.
great tip!
Thanks for the great video. Very kind of you to do this in the cold.
I was wondering what the little devil was lol good video thanks
on the hose from the carb to the crank case is there a plastic piece to restrict gas flow? I thought I saw on and when i install a new carb I could'nt find it engine ran for 5 minutes then smoked and stopped what caused this?
You are correct, the spec. Is 1/4 of an inch past TDC. 60 inch pounds is 5 foot pounds (60divided by 12). .004 and.006 is the typical valve lash for these engines. At least you do not have oil going all over the place, as you had when adjusting the valves on a solid lifter 327 Chevy. That valve lash was burned into my head, .012 and .018.
I have run and built several 327 chevs. My favorite motor. Getting hard to find.
I've got the 18 hp OHV Intek and I'm sure the valves need adjusting. ITs hard to turn over and after 20 or so minutes of using the mower, the engine just doesnt want to run anymore. I attempted to adjust the valves once before, but apparently I did it wrong, because they seemed to not need adjusting. I'll go recheck them though. I've got a video up on my channel of when I attempted it, and if you could let me know what I may have done wrong that would be great!
Thanks so much for this video! My 17.5hp intek had this same exact problem
Other videos ahow the exhaust to be the bottom and the intake to be the top one on my Intek. Does B&S change the location on different Intek engines?
Nice easy explain and I like the Lawn ART! Thanks
I've seen those studs loose more than once the valves won't open right with loose studs- thread locker maybe?
SO, what is that in the background?
If you are looking for TDC to adjust valve clearances, it MUST BE on it's compression stroke.
Very nice video. Can you please also tell us about the thing moving in background :)
thanks! It is a sculpture some friends and I made :)
Thanks for a GREAT video, I.ll be checking the valves on my mower very soon.
Wow I can watch this man fix lawnmowers all day long hm? I wonder is that a sign of old age or what?
hahaha!
Yep
mee to can watch his repairs all day :D
these engines are noted for the rocker studs backing out causing valves to come out of adjustment use lock tight on the threads and retighten also if the compression release on the cam breaks it will be hard to start
good tip
I think it would have been a good idea to remove the rocker and support stud to put some thread locker on the stud threads, I have a feeling the factory puts something on the threads to hold them.
You are correct. Recently my engine started making a tapping noise that quickly grew louder until the engine died. When I took the rocker cover off the intake valve rocker arm was loose and it had rotated 90 degrees. What had happened was that the intake rocker arm support stud had unscrewed out of the head and it was almost all the way out. The stud had been installed with no thread locker on it. To be sure I took the exhaust stud out just to check it and it already had thread locker on it. Apparently someone had forgotten to put thread locker on the intake stud and only did the exhaust stud, which is why the intake stud unscrewed out of the head.
I'm about to do this tonight. Thanks for the great demonstration!
I read in the manual to turn the engine counter clockwise to ensure the acr doesn’t affect the adjustment on the intake 🤷🏻♂️🙂
That's the best way to do it if you can
Very nice work!! Thanks for the help, I'm about to do the same valve adjustment job.
Thanks for the very detailed instructions and sharing your valuable knowledge. I've watched 20+ videos while trying to fix my grandpas old 17hp B&S I/C ohv and I still can't get the dang thing to turn over...It had a blown head gasket, of which the gaskets look designed to fail as they are missing a bolt in a critical location in my opinion...Anyways, after cleaning the carbon, setting the gasket, and adjusting the valves (intake to 0.003" and exhaust to 0.005") I get a chirping sound as I try to turn it over...It almost sounds like airs whistling out of the air filter / carb area in short bursts. With a fear that I set the valves on the wrong stroke, I double checked and I set the valves again with the piston 1/4" deep past TDC, pulled the filter off to better inspect, tried to turn it over again...and same chirping sound. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone locally that has the knowledge to help me, and my grandpas rolling in his grave watching me struggle. Would love to hear your thoughts before he starts haunting me. Cheers!
it sure sounds like the exhaust valve is not working properly forcing the air out the carb. I would check for loose rocker bolts or a bent pushrod.
Jeff's Little Engine Service Thanks for the heads up! Looks like im on round 3 for the valve adjustments. I just hope that third times the charm.
@furnace3 it turns out I had reblown the head gasket almost as soon as I had replaced it (didnt torque the head bolts properly..) . And so I didn't check it until I fixed and rebuilt everything else...shame on me...
What is that moving in the background
Is there a video dealing with taking the springs from the valves off and on again
Ok I did this exactly... And my motor is still not turning over, crank literally feels stuck, any other idea??? Help really need to build a race mower!!
it is very common for th compression relase mechanism to fail on the cam. I bet you need a new cam.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService imma take a look
I have an issue with the same lawnmower it seems like it’s good compression but it seems to not really want to start. It will start on occasion but most of the time you’ll just sit there and crank it. It has spark and fuel. I’m wondering if it’s also valves but it spins over just fine and the spark plug also gets full of gas every time I take it off
must be the valves or low compression
Very nice video mister
Thanks friend
Tractor Troy Bilt Pony model 13AN77KQ011shoots a carburetor while working at low speeds, what could be the reason?
Many thanks for the video. Can I ask a supplementary (or two)? My B&S engine of this type has started to get hard to start (battery etc. fine) BUT at the same time it has started to burn oil when put under load - engaging blades, for instance. Could that just be down to valve clearances and if not, might it be the valve stem oil seals, cylinder head gasket or worn cylinders/piston rings? A gasket I could tackle, valve stem seals as long as no special tools are needed, but if it's pistons maybe I'll just run it until it gives up!
probably not a valve clearance issue...It sounds like either the engine is getting tired (worn rings etc) or possibly the beginning of a failing head gasket
Cheers, Jeff. It was a question more in hope than expectation. I'll have a crack at the head gasket and check for bore wear at the same time. A wee donation on its way as thanks for your help.
Thank you very much fine sir. I hope your project goes well.
You don't need to get the engine to TDC. That is only required for timing. Just spin the flywheel tell one of the lifters are down the opposite one will be loose, adjust that one then rotate tell the next lifter is down then adjust the next. Yes, TDC allows for both lifters to be loose but by the time you find it you could be done with the job.
So is that a 6 on the top an a 4 on the bottom from your feller gauges
Very good job 👌 nice video good explanation I learn from it thanks
Mine wont start and I have new battery and carburetor cleaned....
Also new spark plug
I don't know why it was run before but smoked after warm up...
Can some one help please?
possible blown head gasket or gas in the oil (from flooding carburetor)
Brother Jeffry I actually laughed out loud with the turning of the second stud. If you think you can over torque a stud reaching in over the valve spring, well think again. People normally remove the valve spring and rocker to tighten the stud but don't pay any attention to me. I am just old.
Sounded like one I picked up. Finally figured it was leaking gas into the oil..vapor lock. Fixed
Valve problems make them hard to start, smoke, or rough running GOOD EASY JOB
What happens if one has zero gap? I cannot adjust my exhuast valve. It has zero gap. When I try to adjust it to a gap, then it is so lose that the push rod falls out. And I mean if I even turn the screw a hair. then it is gaped so much that the push rod falls out