Thank you! This gives me confidence to help a guy from Church do his 2016 CRV. Money is tight for them and it is something I can help with as I did my own until 20 years ago when I became disabled! Between you and me I can help teach him and save him $500!!!
Thanks for the video. My 16 CRV got 65000 miles last week. And vehicle running just fine. Do you suggest to replace the spark plug and ignition coil bcz of the mileage ? Please let me know your thought
Just got 100k service on my 16 crv. Replaced sparkplugs - got honda oem with iridium tips, pricey but they are 100k plugs. Coils were fine, injectors were fine. Valve adjustment was done as well - that is also 100k service item.
Where would you recommend for me to buy good quality but reasonable brake pads and rotor or Honda 2014 CRV? How much should I expect to pay for pay for parts. I was told my rim is 3 mm in the front both sides but the back brakes in yellow condition. I can find someone to do jobs for 4 brakes for $100, do you recommend doing all at the same time? Dealership also told me to flush brake fluid, I read online I need brake fluid top off, okay to hold off flushing and just top off brake fluid and what brand would you recommend? Thanks!
Unfortunately there is no right answer to that question. Everyone’s driving style is different and also depends on where the car is driven. At 4mm I’d likely let my customer know that’s its time to start thinking about them and report back next oil change
@@SEsGarage ok, standard oil change is about 5-7k miles so I will buy the brakes to have on hand and listen for brake squealing before that time.Thank you for the video and the quick response.
@@SEsGarage Or the correct answer which is: Front brakes Bracket bolts 101 lb ft Caliper pins 37 lb ft Rear brakes Bracket bolts 80 lb ft Caliper pins 17 lb ft "Good and tight" isn't good enough. These are brakes, after all. Let's give out solid info.
Those dual pistons are sort of a pain to compress using a c-clamp on that caliper body. I ended up using 2 c-clamps, one on each piston. Maybe excessive, but I’m used to single piston designs and wanted the force as even as I could do it. I didn’t touch that rotar, that set screw looks like it’s begging to strip. I don’t have an impact screw driver. But at least you didn’t make one of those sterilized videos where the car tech just takes apart nice new rust free components, while you curse…
Thank you! This gives me confidence to help a guy from Church do his 2016 CRV. Money is tight for them and it is something I can help with as I did my own until 20 years ago when I became disabled! Between you and me I can help teach him and save him $500!!!
Very helpful and Informative. Will certainly help Me with my Honda Brake replacement. Well done Thank You!
I was told that old break fluid could cause problems and i should loosen up a bleed screw when compressing the caliper
Admittedly you’re right, however it makes the job much messier and if the brake fluid in the reservoir looks clean I leave the bleeders closed.
pop the master cylinder cap, so fluid and adjust position. make sure it doesnt overflow out though.
Thanks for the video.
My 16 CRV got 65000 miles last week. And vehicle running just fine.
Do you suggest to replace the spark plug and ignition coil bcz of the mileage ?
Please let me know your thought
Just replace the plugs at 100k. No need to replace the coils
Just got 100k service on my 16 crv. Replaced sparkplugs - got honda oem with iridium tips, pricey but they are 100k plugs. Coils were fine, injectors were fine. Valve adjustment was done as well - that is also 100k service item.
Where would you recommend for me to buy good quality but reasonable brake pads and rotor or Honda 2014 CRV? How much should I expect to pay for pay for parts. I was told my rim is 3 mm in the front both sides but the back brakes in yellow condition. I can find someone to do jobs for 4 brakes for $100, do you recommend doing all at the same time? Dealership also told me to flush brake fluid, I read online I need brake fluid top off, okay to hold off flushing and just top off brake fluid and what brand would you recommend? Thanks!
Do you need to put the little screws back on? Seems like an issue is waiting to happen
You don’t need to, but it’s a pet peeve of mine when people don’t 🤣
no anti seize on the hub part which touches the new rotor?
You can if you’d like but it’s not necessary
At a thickness of 4 mm on the brakes how many more "thousands of miles" would you recommend before changing these?
Unfortunately there is no right answer to that question. Everyone’s driving style is different and also depends on where the car is driven. At 4mm I’d likely let my customer know that’s its time to start thinking about them and report back next oil change
@@SEsGarage ok, standard oil change is about 5-7k miles so I will buy the brakes to have on hand and listen for brake squealing before that time.Thank you for the video and the quick response.
Do you happen to know the torque specs for the 19 millimeter brake bracket ? I’m gonna attempt to change my brakes in a couple of days
Good and tight is good enough in this situation
@@SEsGarage Or the correct answer which is:
Front brakes
Bracket bolts 101 lb ft
Caliper pins 37 lb ft
Rear brakes
Bracket bolts 80 lb ft
Caliper pins 17 lb ft
"Good and tight" isn't good enough. These are brakes, after all. Let's give out solid info.
Those dual pistons are sort of a pain to compress using a c-clamp on that caliper body. I ended up using 2 c-clamps, one on each piston. Maybe excessive, but I’m used to single piston designs and wanted the force as even as I could do it. I didn’t touch that rotar, that set screw looks like it’s begging to strip. I don’t have an impact screw driver.
But at least you didn’t make one of those sterilized videos where the car tech just takes apart nice new rust free components, while you curse…