@@qaszim2012 it's usually not amateurs who get into accidents but seasoned veterans who get a bit _too_ comfortable with their tools. the stats are out there...
@@csehszlovakze 100% agree, but there are also a thousand and one reasons it could be off, the guy ain't daft. No need to spell it out like he is some fool.
thanks, Colin...I have watched you videos for a long time, and it is always a good thing to retrace the fundamentals. many thanks for your years of sharing your knowledge!
Thanks Colin! Another great video, we have been trying to tell people the same thing about pallet wood forever. For about 10 years now we only use kiln dried S/B lumber.
Thanks, enjoyed your video and wood working tips. Was injured in my youth as a novice woodworker and hope other viewers heed your excellent recommendations.
I've been doing wood working for sixty years And this guy doesn't even use a riving knife or a guard on the table saw. I am amazed he can still count to ten on his fingers. BUY A SAW STOP TABLE SAW. It's the safest investment a new woodworker can make.
Totally agree about pallet wood. Those nails in pallets often have spikes on the shaft, and when you pull one out the spikes break off. I found out the hard way, and that "free" wood cost me a set of planer blades. And yes, pallets sit on the ground, get rained on or muddy: you want to run that through your planer, jointer, or table saw? Worse, you may never know what that pallet had sitting on it in the back of a truck: food, hazardous chemicals, fertilizers.....?
The good thing about push sticks is that you are much farther away from the blade. WIth push blocks you also are pushing much more down which dan be very bad if you slip and your hand is above the blade. A riving knife would also mostly solve the issue of kick back and should always be used if there is not a reasone against it.
Tip 5 about blade height has to have one exception, if you are cutting thin ply, the board will lift and become dangerous unless you have the blade much higher than the wood. Other than that well done.
In general my experience is to set your blade 1.25 inches higher than quarter inch and .5 inch sheet goods when ripping or end cutting on a table saw. This will help keep the material from riding up over the blade and causing serious kick back and famn it hurts to get hit that way. Thicker material set the blade the height of the saw tooth.
@Colin, do you prefer your longer pushstick to using feather boards to keep the stock from jumping? I've just bought a table saw and, like yours, the fence doesn't have a slot to accept a fastener for a feather board - the only way to secure a feather board is by using clamps. Also, is the push stick suitable for long cuts? Thanks for the videos, Paul.
I’m sure others mentioned a riving knife, especially for beginners. For pallet wood, I always pass a metal detector over it before other equipment. Nails may be easy to spot, but staples and the metal rings around some nails always get overlooked and chip blades or teeth. But great video for beginners.
that last push stick seems like trouble to me, its way tall and not angled forward which helps keep stuff flat on the table. both with your home made and the chicken foot you were able to plant it firmly every time, that thing was wobbling all over the place
Good video, Colin. FWIW, another problem with pallet wood is the possible contamination from leaky containers of who-knows-what. I think this is the kind of video every woodworker should watch periodically - like a refresher course. Thanks for sharing.
It's probably very hit and miss, but my cheap combination square is actually the second most accurate square I own. I guess you always need to check these for square, and recheck after a while to make sure it's still good. My squares often fall down on the concrete floor, so maybe that has something to do with it...
I’ve always found this concern kind of funny. People worry about the safety of pallet wood because it may have been chemically treated. So they buy wood that’s never been treated, and then slather it with their favourite finishing product… which itself is lethal if consumed. The only valid question mark with pallet wood, is not knowing it’s history and what it’s come into direct contact with. If it has ANY signs of liquid being spilled on it… assume it’s anthrax and don’t touch it lol.
The table saw was the last bigger machine that I obtained for my woodworking shop. Far earlier I had a mitre saw, a drill press, a router and a band saw. I don't have a jointer, nor a planer (other than a small 3 inch wide electric hand-held one). From time to time I use pallet wood. I need to check very carefully, if there are no nails hidden.
@@martinsvensson6884 That is what I was thinking. So using a carpenter's square saves you from buying another item and it can be used for more than one purpose.
I don’t see a riving knife. Am I missing something?
you're right. I'm curious too why he doesn't use one, everyone should.
@@csehszlovakze🤦♂️ the guy has probably forgotten more than you will ever know about woodworking, is it good practice? Yes is it essential? NO.
@@qaszim2012 it's usually not amateurs who get into accidents but seasoned veterans who get a bit _too_ comfortable with their tools. the stats are out there...
@@csehszlovakze 100% agree, but there are also a thousand and one reasons it could be off, the guy ain't daft. No need to spell it out like he is some fool.
@@qaszim2012 I disagree, sometimes it takes an asshat like me to knock sense in someone.
thanks, Colin...I have watched you videos for a long time, and it is always a good thing to retrace the fundamentals. many thanks for your years of sharing your knowledge!
Thanks Colin! Another great video, we have been trying to tell people the same thing about pallet wood forever. For about 10 years now we only use kiln dried S/B lumber.
First rule: safety!
Second rule: security!
...
Thanks, enjoyed your video and wood working tips. Was injured in my youth as a novice woodworker and hope other viewers heed your excellent recommendations.
I've been doing wood working for sixty years And this guy doesn't even use a riving knife or a guard on the table saw. I am amazed he can still count to ten on his fingers.
BUY A SAW STOP TABLE SAW. It's the safest investment a new woodworker can make.
"If you have one tool, it's probably a table saw"
Really, you think new woodworkers START with a table saw?
Micro jig " GRR-RIPPER is the BEST Pushblock " Hands Down " Accept only the BEST
Say there Colin I am a subscriber to the web = would please explain for a right hander where you mount a face or end wood vice on a work bench ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Why dont you have the table bench saw guard?
I'm from sweden and I didnt find the right word for it. I mean the guard or the knife after the blade.
Thanks a LOT for all the tips, Colin! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Magnets are great for folks who can afford steel work surfaces.
Totally agree about pallet wood. Those nails in pallets often have spikes on the shaft, and when you pull one out the spikes break off. I found out the hard way, and that "free" wood cost me a set of planer blades. And yes, pallets sit on the ground, get rained on or muddy: you want to run that through your planer, jointer, or table saw? Worse, you may never know what that pallet had sitting on it in the back of a truck: food, hazardous chemicals, fertilizers.....?
Let your wood "Acclimate" before working it. Give it a couple cew days to equalize.
Thank you for the great information. I'm watching this video in the evening and this morning I found out my square is not accurate just like you said
The good thing about push sticks is that you are much farther away from the blade. WIth push blocks you also are pushing much more down which dan be very bad if you slip and your hand is above the blade.
A riving knife would also mostly solve the issue of kick back and should always be used if there is not a reasone against it.
Tip 5 about blade height has to have one exception, if you are cutting thin ply, the board will lift and become dangerous unless you have the blade much higher than the wood. Other than that well done.
You must not be using push sticks or atleast the correct ones if you was you wouldn’t have that problem.
No it wont unless you maybe have no pressure on it at all... which you should always have.
How can plywood lift when you have a push block or stick on it?
In general my experience is to set your blade 1.25 inches higher than quarter inch and .5 inch sheet goods when ripping or end cutting on a table saw. This will help keep the material from riding up over the blade and causing serious kick back and famn it hurts to get hit that way.
Thicker material set the blade the height of the saw tooth.
@Colin, do you prefer your longer pushstick to using feather boards to keep the stock from jumping? I've just bought a table saw and, like yours, the fence doesn't have a slot to accept a fastener for a feather board - the only way to secure a feather board is by using clamps.
Also, is the push stick suitable for long cuts?
Thanks for the videos, Paul.
I bought a $10 table saw bade at Harbor Freight once that lasted me forever. I still have it but I need it sharpened.
I’m sure others mentioned a riving knife, especially for beginners. For pallet wood, I always pass a metal detector over it before other equipment. Nails may be easy to spot, but staples and the metal rings around some nails always get overlooked and chip blades or teeth. But great video for beginners.
that last push stick seems like trouble to me, its way tall and not angled forward which helps keep stuff flat on the table. both with your home made and the chicken foot you were able to plant it firmly every time, that thing was wobbling all over the place
Good video, Colin. FWIW, another problem with pallet wood is the possible contamination from leaky containers of who-knows-what. I think this is the kind of video every woodworker should watch periodically - like a refresher course. Thanks for sharing.
It's probably very hit and miss, but my cheap combination square is actually the second most accurate square I own. I guess you always need to check these for square, and recheck after a while to make sure it's still good. My squares often fall down on the concrete floor, so maybe that has something to do with it...
Thanks, Colin! Great reminders, as usual!!
First time watcher. Thank you for those tips.
hi mr colín great video thank you for sharing my friend
Thanks for the reminders Collin. We all need to be reminded of these things once in a while. 😊😊😊
What on earth is that yellow thing supposed to be - sure looks like a -
Eggcellant
Good reminder Colin👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌😎😎👍
I've always been told pallet wood a no good because its treated with chemicals that you don't want in your house.
I’ve always found this concern kind of funny. People worry about the safety of pallet wood because it may have been chemically treated.
So they buy wood that’s never been treated, and then slather it with their favourite finishing product… which itself is lethal if consumed.
The only valid question mark with pallet wood, is not knowing it’s history and what it’s come into direct contact with. If it has ANY signs of liquid being spilled on it… assume it’s anthrax and don’t touch it lol.
I'm not sure most newbies who *have to* resort to pallet wood can afford a jointer/planer/table saw trio.
The table saw was the last bigger machine that I obtained for my woodworking shop. Far earlier I had a mitre saw, a drill press, a router and a band saw.
I don't have a jointer, nor a planer (other than a small 3 inch wide electric hand-held one). From time to time I use pallet wood. I need to check very carefully, if there
are no nails hidden.
شكرا للافادة
ممكن ترجمة
I understand the need for a good square, but would you not get the same result with a good carpenter's square and it does more too.
Any square that is accurate works...
@@martinsvensson6884 That is what I was thinking. So using a carpenter's square saves you from buying another item and it can be used for more than one purpose.
Aisha, makhmoud and ishmael suffered, but others bit their tongue.