Man i was hoping you would have kept going when you started to explain the heat range. Ive always been curious on learning that part. If you cover these topics in any other videos please let me know. Also i have to say, out of so many videos your about the only guy ive see do a actual nice close up on what your talking about, so thank you very much for this. If you have or will put out any more in-depth spark plug info i and people i know will be all over it. Thank you Sir
Old school ways may not be dead... but it wouldnt hurt to suggest using a wideband 02 AFR gauge along with a vacuum guage, both are great carburetor tuning aids for the mostly street driven vehicles to help monitor what your engine wants instead of pulling the spark plugs, even though it should still be done from time to time for verification.
Great summary, that's how I have known to read a plug. Yes, the plug is the business end of a combustion chamber. Besides of a strip down, and then you still don't get instantaneous info for fine-tuning
Interested to know how you identify the correct heat range plug. Knowing that heat range affects timing mark on the strap, it's confusing when many mention heat range and strap color like you would when identifying the timing mark.. I've understood that you need to look at heat in plug base and threads. Looking forward to your insight. BTW - use a 5/8 hole saw to cut the crimp off the plug base works great to remove the center section.
Good tip. I will try to do a more in-depth video on plugs soon. I kinda skimmed across the subject just because I wasn’t sure if anyone would actually find it interesting
Heat range is observed on the threads. If only first 2-3 treads are darker then the plug is in the proper heat range . Then you can use the ground strap mark for determining the proper timing . The exact timing is when the mark is exactly on the middle of the turn and if it is as close to the base of the strap as in the video this means that the timing advance angle is too much!
Quick question. I know the .100" soot line you reference here is geared for full throttle or dragstrip tuning. But say you take a brand new plug and install it and want to test the other metering circuits of your carb. Immediately after the new plug install, say you drive at steady state cruise (part throttle, 60 mph, interstate for a long stretch). Is there a way to read the plug for this circuit?
@@ericabercrombie6780 you can. But it makes it a little harder. It will “show” richer than it is. And if you really look you will see a darker like below the dark line of that makes sense. Like the one that is easy to see is the “false line” and if you really look closer you’ll see a faint darker line
Great video. I have a 1970 Chevelle with a 396 engine. The coil is arching out. You can see the spark coming out right where the coil wire connects to it. Once the engine warms up it runs sluggish and cuts off and back fires from the carburator and has engine run on once the engine shuts down. After watching this video I have decided not to change my plugs because they look ok. Could this arching out at the coil cause this? In your expert opinion what could it be? Thanks in advance.
At idle a carburetor tends to run a hair rich, that’s so when your wide open it doesn’t run lean. So a plug that has a lot of idle time will read a little richer than its actually running
Are you able to even see that fuel line showing on the porcelin when a plug is intact and not torn apart? I honestly never even noticed such a line before although in all fairness, I have always checked after driving around and not from a full throttle pull... also in regards to timing, if it is set dead on with a timing light , are you saying that should be Disregarded if the strap is showing a partial coloration and advanced further till its colored down the entire strap even if the timing light would show its too far advanced?
Depends on the plug really some engines run a “big” plug like the FE does. You can see them pretty easy. Then like the Windsor it runs a smaller diameter plug and they are hard to see but a lot of modern cars run a smaller plug but they are really long. Those are almost impossible to see the fuel line on
Im running 2 heat ranges colder than stock plugs call for. Im reading my timing based off of that, will that be throwing off my reading? Or will the timing mark on the strap be the same no matter what heat range? thanks
So I actually run both. And I like both. As for reading them there isn’t a ton of difference it really depends on the plug. For example a FE plug is short and fat so you can see down in the “hole” really easy. But a Windsor plug Is deep and skinny and for whatever reason it does seem like you can see the porcelain better on the NGK. But a lot depends on the style plug you have.
So are you saying to take a reading, put in a clean set of plugs, drive along to a parking bay, shut off engine instantly, remove those plugs and then have them cut open to read them. Can those plugs be used again once cut through the metal sleeve to cut open ?
No once you cut a set of plugs they are trash. Now if you can get a light or maybe something that you can see the bottom of the porcelain you may be able to see the fuel line without cutting it. But I air on the side of caution and just cut one. But yes.. you need as little idle time as possible to accurately read a plug. Idle time will show slightly richer than it’s actually running
If your trying to read the plugs for tuning you should put a set in, run it down the road , track whatever and pull them and read them. You want a little idle time as possible
Man i was hoping you would have kept going when you started to explain the heat range. Ive always been curious on learning that part. If you cover these topics in any other videos please let me know. Also i have to say, out of so many videos your about the only guy ive see do a actual nice close up on what your talking about, so thank you very much for this. If you have or will put out any more in-depth spark plug info i and people i know will be all over it. Thank you Sir
@@brianb5779 thank you for the input. I will definitely try to put out a better more detailed video on the subject
@@frizzellracing I and we cant wait. Thank you
%thanks. It’s nice of you to show these secrets. I appreciate it.
Old school ways may not be dead... but it wouldnt hurt to suggest using a wideband 02 AFR gauge along with a vacuum guage, both are great carburetor tuning aids for the mostly street driven vehicles to help monitor what your engine wants instead of pulling the spark plugs, even though it should still be done from time to time for verification.
The Galaxie is nostalgia raced. No kind of sensors are allowed on it to be legal
Great summary, that's how I have known to read a plug. Yes, the plug is the business end of a combustion chamber. Besides of a strip down, and then you still don't get instantaneous info for fine-tuning
It starts at 4:02
Doing the Lord's work. Thanks man
Interested to know how you identify the correct heat range plug. Knowing that heat range affects timing mark on the strap, it's confusing when many mention heat range and strap color like you would when identifying the timing mark.. I've understood that you need to look at heat in plug base and threads. Looking forward to your insight.
BTW - use a 5/8 hole saw to cut the crimp off the plug base works great to remove the center section.
Good tip. I will try to do a more in-depth video on plugs soon. I kinda skimmed across the subject just because I wasn’t sure if anyone would actually find it interesting
Heat range is observed on the threads. If only first 2-3 treads are darker then the plug is in the proper heat range . Then you can use the ground strap mark for determining the proper timing . The exact timing is when the mark is exactly on the middle of the turn and if it is as close to the base of the strap as in the video this means that the timing advance angle is too much!
Quick question. I know the .100" soot line you reference here is geared for full throttle or dragstrip tuning. But say you take a brand new plug and install it and want to test the other metering circuits of your carb. Immediately after the new plug install, say you drive at steady state cruise (part throttle, 60 mph, interstate for a long stretch). Is there a way to read the plug for this circuit?
@@ericabercrombie6780 you can. But it makes it a little harder. It will “show” richer than it is. And if you really look you will see a darker like below the dark line of that makes sense. Like the one that is easy to see is the “false line” and if you really look closer you’ll see a faint darker line
@@frizzellracing Thank you. Well done video that really simplifies the art of plug reading!
Great video. I have a 1970 Chevelle with a 396 engine. The coil is arching out. You can see the spark coming out right where the coil wire connects to it. Once the engine warms up it runs sluggish and cuts off and back fires from the carburator and has engine run on once the engine shuts down. After watching this video I have decided not to change my plugs because they look ok. Could this arching out at the coil cause this? In your expert opinion what could it be? Thanks in advance.
@@KingPinSpence yes that could definitely cause issue. Thank you for watching
Great video… what did you use to cut the plug ? How about a video ?
great infos. can i apply this method for testing the combustion in different carburetor throttle opening (not only at full throttle)?
At idle a carburetor tends to run a hair rich, that’s so when your wide open it doesn’t run lean. So a plug that has a lot of idle time will read a little richer than its actually running
Will this apply to 20-strokes?
Are you able to even see that fuel line showing on the porcelin when a plug is intact and not torn apart? I honestly never even noticed such a line before although in all fairness, I have always checked after driving around and not from a full throttle pull... also in regards to timing, if it is set dead on with a timing light , are you saying that should be Disregarded if the strap is showing a partial coloration and advanced further till its colored down the entire strap even if the timing light would show its too far advanced?
Depends on the plug really some engines run a “big” plug like the FE does. You can see them pretty easy. Then like the Windsor it runs a smaller diameter plug and they are hard to see but a lot of modern cars run a smaller plug but they are really long. Those are almost impossible to see the fuel line on
Im running 2 heat ranges colder than stock plugs call for. Im reading my timing based off of that, will that be throwing off my reading? Or will the timing mark on the strap be the same no matter what heat range? thanks
The timing mark will still be the same. Reading the heat range is different. Timing mark should still be in the same place
thank you brother@@frizzellracing
Thank you brother. God bless
Which do you prefer Autolite or NGK. Most guys say that the NGK’s are much easier to read. Wanted to get your opinion.
Thanks great video
So I actually run both. And I like both. As for reading them there isn’t a ton of difference it really depends on the plug. For example a FE plug is short and fat so you can see down in the “hole” really easy. But a Windsor plug Is deep and skinny and for whatever reason it does seem like you can see the porcelain better on the NGK. But a lot depends on the style plug you have.
Yeah, that makes sense. I’m running all Windsor stuff a little more difficult to see down in there.
Thanks
@@mikeyb1835 happy to help. Thanks for watching
So are you saying to take a reading, put in a clean set of plugs, drive along to a parking bay, shut off engine instantly, remove those plugs and then have them cut open to read them. Can those plugs be used again once cut through the metal sleeve to cut open ?
No once you cut a set of plugs they are trash. Now if you can get a light or maybe something that you can see the bottom of the porcelain you may be able to see the fuel line without cutting it. But I air on the side of caution and just cut one. But yes.. you need as little idle time as possible to accurately read a plug. Idle time will show slightly richer than it’s actually running
How long you run with new plugs before you read e
If your trying to read the plugs for tuning you should put a set in, run it down the road , track whatever and pull them and read them. You want a little idle time as possible
my spark plug is solid black on the ends, what do i need to do?
Is it wet black or dry or is it soot black.
just black..@@frizzellracing
Great video!
Thanks!
How do ya cut the plug that’s awsome
Anyway you have to do it. A lathe works best. A angle grinder with a cutoff wheel will
Work if all else fails a hacksaw will do the job
Great video
The very best engine builders in the country will tell you to READ THE PLUGS then use O2 and EGT sensors for reference. ABOVE ALL, read the plugs!
Everybody’s an expert sorry but I fell asleep. Thank you all… Hey, I’m just a hillbilly
WoT ?🙈
To get the most accurate reading. It can be done without that. But it will be a hair misleading that way. WOT gives you the most accurate information
@@frizzellracing what 🇺🇸yankee for WoT
@@MrBlackbutang wide open throttle